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RAMBLES 



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REFLECTIONS. 



BIT ROPE 

FROM BISCAY TO THE BLACK SEA AND FROM /ETNA 

TO THE NORTH CAPE WITH GLIMPSES AT 

ASIA, AFRICA, AMERICA AND THE 

ISLANDS OF THE SEA. 




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THOMAS J. CLAYTOX. 



CHESTHR. PA.. i8q2. 



Press of The Delaware County Republican. 



ENTERED ACCORDING TO AN ACT OF CONGRESS, IN THE YEAR 1893, BY THOMAS J. 

CLAYTON, IN THE OFFICE OF THE LIBRARIAN OF CONGRESS, 

AT WASHINGTON. 



PREFACE. 

The following letters are published in book form more as 
a souvenir for my friends than for general distribution. I 
have received many flattering letters requesting copies of the 
newspapers in which they were originally published, but which 
I have been unable to furnish. This book is intended to sup- 
ply that demand. 

The first series of letters was published in 1869, before 
the Franco-Prussian War. In that year I saw Paris a? it will , 
perhaps, never be seen again. It was the most glorious per- 
iod of the Empire of Napoleon III. 

The second series was published in 1873, after France's 
humiliation and during the World's Fair, at Vienna, a display 
that has never been equaled by any exposition that it has been 
my good fortune to see. 

In 1888, I made an extended tour of Europe, from Sicily 
to the North Cape and from Paris to Constantinople. The 
letters of this series give faithful pictures, as far as I was able 
to paint them, of my experience and observations during six 
months of the most active and, to me, the most interesting 
period of my life. 

In 1889 I visited Spain and Northern Africa and have en- 
deavored to give my impressions of the places I visited during 
the three months I spent in those interesting countries. 

The last series of foreign letters was written in 1892, and 
is confined to France, Italy and Africa. 

I trust the letters from Florida, Havana, Jamaica and 
Bermuda, written during the winters of 1890 and 1891 will 
prove interesting to those who have, as well as to those who 
have not visited those places. 

The letters describing my hunts in Arkansas and Virginia 
will recall some pleasant recollections to the old friends who 
were my partners upon those pleasant occasions and will bs 
enjoyed by all who are fond of the sports of the field and are 
friends of the dog and gun. 

I have supplemented ni}- book with a Biographic il sketch 



IV 



of the Clayton family in America, which will, of course, be 
only interesting to my immediate relatives and nearest friends. 

As these letters were the hasty compositions of leisure 
hours and transitory observations, I cannot expect them to be 
free from just criticism, especially as I am conscious of many 
grave errors and defects in diction as well as in style. For the 
want of time and patience, I have concluded to republish them 
without much revision, trusting to the indulgence of the gen- 
erous reader, who, I am quite sure, will agree with me that it 
is much easier to criticise the writings of others than to em- 
ploy our own pens with perfection. 

The book contains faithful records of my first impressions 
of the manners, customs and characteristics of the Old World 
as I have seen it, and if it will give information, pleasure or 
pastime to my friends, to whom it is respectfully dedicated, 
my only object in its publication will be attained. 

T. J. C. 



TABLE OF CONTENTS. 



Family Arms, - - - - I 

Portrait, - - - - - II 

Preface, ----- m 

Table of Contents, - _ - _ jy 

I. 

First visit to Europe, 1869 — Life on the ship, - i 

Cockney English — First sight of Ireland — Cove and 
Oueenstown, - - - - - 2 

Cork Harbor — Spike Island — -Drake's pool — Itemized 
hotel bill, - - - - 3 

II. 

Queenstown to Killarney — Old castles — Cork — Shandon 
bells, - - - - - 4 

Royal names—Emblem of English justice, old-fashioned 
steelyards — The zvatcrjack — Blarney stone — P'iddler of 
Blarney — Birds and beggars — The Mardyke — Killarney 
— Gap of Dunloe — Masonic friends — Musical echoes — 
An old barefooted Friar, - - - 6 

III. 

Killarney to Dublin — Irish railroads — No barns — Peasant- 
ry — An Irish-American, - - - 7 
Round towers — Turf — Decreasing population — Ameri- 
can farming implements — Dublin — Its bridges and pub- 
lic buildings, squares, monuments and parks — An inter- 
esting old city, - - - - 8 

IV. 

Dublin to Giant's Causeway — High rents — Drogheda — Old 
ruins — Remains of the seige by Cromwell — Dwellings 
of the poor, - - - - "9 

Battle of the Boyne — Bridge at Drogheda-— Orangemen 
outrages — Crosses of Monasterboice — Tomb of King 
Muredach — Round Tower — Millifonet Abbey — Ten 
counties at onQcotip d'oeil, - - - 10 



VI 



, Long July days — Belfast — An American city — Familiar 
names — Obituary poetry — Jaunting cars — Keep to the 
right — -Gray brick — Girls as farm hands— ^The Giant's 
Causeway, - - - - - 1 1 

Who built the causeway — Portcoon cave — Tim M'Cool 
— Dunluce Castle — Port Rush sea bathing, - 12 

V. 

From Ireland to England, - - - 12 

Liverpool in 1869 — How to explore a strange city — 
U. S. 5-20's in England — Gold and bank notes in 1869 
— Birkenhead, - - - " I3 

Chester in England — The Rows and old Roman walls — 
Phoenix Tower — Old Monk's description of Chester, - 14 
Chester Cathedral — Epitaph over a dead son — Horses 
of Liverpool — English plow, - - - 15 

VI. 

Liverpool to London — Underground R. R. — Farmers — 
Merchant princes — Sights of London, - - 16 

British museum — Three land marks, - - 17 

London bridge and monument — A deed 4000 years old 
- — ^Picture Gallery — Bigotry of the olden time, - 17. 

Antiquity of London — Great fire — English dislike to 
changes — 80 miles of solid buildings — Westminster 
Abbey, chapels and tombs, - - - 18 

A Queen's epitaph — Poet's corner — "O Rare Ben John- 
son" — Lady Ann of Cleve — Richard III, - - 20 
Pious fraud, - - - - 21 

VII. 

St. Paul's — Sir Christopher Wren's monument, - 21 

Tombs in the crypt — Wellington's funeral car — View 
from the Ball — The great bell — Tomb of Benjamin 
West — The Tower of London, - - 22 

Ancient and monern arms — Colt's revolver 400 years 
old — Axe and block — The Koh-i-Noor, - - 23 

Traitor's gate — Anne Boleyn, - - 24 

Justice to England — Ignorance of America — Sympathy 
with our Rebellion — The Alabama case — English cha- 25 
racter, - - - - - 26 

VIII. 

London to Carlisle — How to see London — English and 26 
American pronunciation — Crystal Palace, . - 27 



VII 



South Kensington museum — .Doctors and lawyers — 
Old castle at Carlisle — Prison of Queen Mary — A Cale- 28 
donian giant — Druid remains — King Arthur's Round 29 
table — Ignorant people. 

IX. 
Carlisle to Edinburgh, - - - "29 

Edinburgh castle — Coltonhill— Arthur's seat — Heart of 
Mid-Lothian — St. Anthony's chapel — Holy Rood — 30 
Mary Queen of Scots — Reflections on Mary's character, 31 
Hawthornden — Roslin Chapel — River Esk — Rosabelle, 32 

X. 

Edinburgh to Rotterdam — Dykes and canals — Black 
cows, - - - - - 33 

Industrious people — Leaning and lop-sided houses — Cu- 
rious customs, - - - - 34 
Beer drinking and music — Cows in harness — ^City with- 
out sidewalks — Street scenes — Good eaters and great 
smokers — Water not drunk as a beverage, - - 35 
A hotel breakfast — The menu, - - 36 

XL 

Rotterdam to Baden-Baden — Enchanting den of gamblers, 36 
. — Drives in the Black Forest — Scenes around the gam- 
ing tables — Antwerp to Brussels — -Eve of Waterloo, - "^J 
"The Star Spangled Banner"— The field of Waterloo — 
Conjugal scene — No fences in Holland or Belgium — Up 38 
the Rhine — Cologne — Mayence—Vineyards — Women 39 
in harness, - - - - - 40 

XII. 

Baden to Geneva — Bale — Old Minster — Dispelled illusions 
— Grand scenery— Lake of Geneva, - - 41 

Confluence of the Arve and Rhone — Good and bad can- 
not flow in the same channel, - - - 41 
Mount Blanc from Geneva — 50 miles' ride in a Dili- 
gence — Splendid roads — Valley of Chamouni — Second 
view of Mount Blanc 12 miles away — Adventure of a 
Chicago boy, - - - - 42 
Glaciers and mountain passes — Mount Flegere — Mon- 
tanvcrt, - - - - - 43 
4;000 Americans visited Mount Blanc in 1869, - 44 

XIII. 
Geneva to Paris — ^Hundredth anniversary of the birth of 
Napoleon — A peasant's advice — First sight of Paris — 44 



VIII 



In a blaze of glory — Waiting for sunrise — L. N. — Place 

de la Bastille — Lettre de Cachet, - - 45 

Column of July — :io,ooo great rampart guns discharged 
by one electric spark at sunrise — Why Paris is such a 

gay city — Gate of Hell, - - - 46 

Amusements — Churches — Schools — The first theatre a 47 

Religious institution — -Soirees and balls — First restaurant 48 

of Paris — The Devil in Paris — -Historic sketch — Reflec- 49 

tions, ■ - - - 50 

Napoleon III. His precautions for the future — The 51 

Coup d'Etat of 1 85 1 — Pere la Chaise — Miss Mar's 52 

baby — The Tuilleries — A scrap of history, - - 53 

Must not talk politics — Reflections on a traveler's life, 54 

XIV. 

Second trip to Europe in 1873 — On ship once more — A 
lady who had not time to fix her hair — Scenes of em- 
barkation — A pretty woman in tears — Little Charley — 
Tears turned to smiles, - - - 55 

Mrs. Studtgardt— The, Cock Tail Club, - - 56 

A ship in distress — Rumor's lying tongue — Fellow 
travelers from the south, - - "57 

XV. 

Second visit to Ireland, - - - 57 

Street nomenclature in Cork — Scene in an Irish Court — 58 

Hospitality — A Yankee after a fortune, - 59 

P'rom Cork to Limerick — Memento Mori — Marks of 

Cromwell's cannon balls — The old Italian's lost bells — 59 
The Shannon — Mishap to an P^nglish tourist — The 

Colleen Bawn — An Irish fair at Ennis — Irish mutton — 60 

, The town full — No beds, - - - 61 

Scenes at the fair — Pigs and wit, - - 62 

XVI. 

Ennis to Galway — Athenrey — Bally-David Castle — Gal- 
way in a state of decline — Looks like an old Spanish 62 
town — Lynch Castle and Lynch Law — The Claddagh — 63 
Galway to Londonderry — An Irish curse — Protestant 
and Catholic churches compared — The Cathedral — City 
walls — Seige of Derry — Slow place — Bathing at Port 65 
Rush, - _ . - - 66 

.XVI I , 
Deny to Hamburg, -. - - - 66 



IX 



Dunluce castle from the sea — Rugged coast — Giant's 
Causeway again — Liverpool to Hull — Manchester from 
the cars — Two hours at Leeds — Handsome women, dj 

Hull — Human slavery in 1834 and 1865 — A clever fel- 
low in England, - - - - 68 
Hamburg in a storm — First efforts at Dutch — Carl 
Schurz — John F. Hartranft, - - - 69 
A funeral in Hamburg, - - - 70 

xvin. 

Hamburg to Dresden — City in a park, - - 71 

New and old cities — Museums and churches — Sunday 
in Europe — Military spirit — The king and his cabman 72 
— Berlin — A bad pun — Contrasted with Paris — History 
of the city — Unter den Linden, - "73 

Monument of Victory — Berlin to Dresden — World re- 
nowned gallery, - - - ~ 74 
Raphael's Madonna — Immodest paintings — Diamonds 
in the green vault — An adventure in the Zoo, - 75 

XIX. 

Dresden to Vienna — Adventure with a Dutch girl — Hotel 
de la Metropole — New York prices, - " 76 

Vienna in 1873 — Approaching eastern civilization — Re- 
strictions upon Jews — The Jewish quarters — History of 
Vienna, - - - - ~ 77 

The World's Fair — Visited by all nations, - ~ 78 

Fine display of art — " Playing with the Tiger," " Ship- 
wrecked," " Walking in the Light," '' A Sleeping Beauty," 
" The Enchantress," " The Assassination of Caesar," and 
other fine paintings, - - "79 

The world in a nut-shell — 15 miles of exhibits — The 
Burgomaster's Fete — Cholera in Venice, - - 80 

XX. 

Vienna to Munich — Last look at the Fair — An American 
in jail — Suspicious wine cellar, - - 81 
The whole world in Vienna — A black princess, 82 
High altitude of Munich — The Basilica — Gallery — 83 
Palace and dungeon — Lola Montez — New king and mu- 
sic — Beer drinkers — Privileges of the sex, - - 84 
A priest-ridden people — A charnel house, - 85 

XXI. 

Munich to Strasburg — Swabes — Stutgardt, - - 86 



Deserted Baden-Baden — Humiliated Strasburg — Cath- 
edral — Late seige — Shells for candlesticks — City Ger- 
manized — A priest's opinion of Emperor William, 87 
Strasbourg to Paris— Celebrated clock and pickpockets — 
Strict passport regulations, - - - 88 
Paris declining — Wounded by the war — Probable short- 
lived Republic, - - - - 89 
Contrast between French and German soldiers — English 
as spoken by a French girl — Absinthe drinking — 90 
Sodom — Infidelity — Versailles, &c., - - 91 

XXII. 

Homeward — More about Paris — Pere la Chaise — Morgue, 92 
Museum de Cluny — Panorama of the seige of Paris — A 
sea-sick sailor, - - - - 93 

Folkstone to London — Thames embankment — Albert me- 
morial — Quid pro Quo, - - - 94 
Color line in Liverpool — Crowded' hotels, - "95 
Sad incident, funeral at sea — Ship a little world, - 96 
Queer people on the ship — The Parson — The Professor 
— The Missionary — Widower — Blue stocking, &c., - 97 
A sailor's idea of preachers — An Irish woman's letter, 98 

XXIII. 
Third trip (1888) — New York to Antwerp — Changes in 
ocean traveling since 1873, - - - 98 

Neptune in a rage, - - - 99 

A preacher's opinion of a philosopher — Mutual blunders 
by French and English passengers — The Gulf Stream — 
Trail of the ship, . _ _ _ joo 

Smoking-room enjoyments — The world's highway — All 
on a sea-level — Eddystone, - - - loi 

Coast of England for 200 miles — Lizard to Dover — 
Farewell to the ship and shipmates, - - 102 

XXIV. 
Antwerp to Bale — Delay at Flushing — Dykes and canals 102 
of Holland — Cathedral, _ _ ^ 103 

Docks — Art gallery — Elevated promenade — Brussells — 
Musee Wiertz — Little Paris, - - - 104 

Waterloo once m.ore — Napoleon out generaled — Travel- 
ling much more expensive than in 1873 — A little dinner 
for four — Valley of the Rhine, - - - 105 

XXV. 
Bale to Milan — The rapid Rhine— Pretty city — Hotel of 106 



XI 



the three Kings — Crooked streets— "Old Minster" — 
Changes in nineteen years— Beautiful views — Street 
railways without rails, . _ _ jq^ 

No free baggage in Italy or Switzerland — The frontier — 
Cars without accommodations — -Fine scenery, - io8 

St. Gothard's tunnel — A destroyed village, - io8 

An intruder — An Italian surprised at the ability of an 
American to speak English, - - - 109 

Difference in temperature between the north and south 
sides of the Alps, - - - - no 

XXVI. 

Milan to Genoa, - - - - no 

The Cathedral of Milan, 500 years old, cost $ 1 20,000,000, 1 1 1 
Art Gallery of Milan — ^ipoo.ooo painting — Street rail- 
ways and electric lights, - - - 1 1 1 
Arcade Victor Emanuel — Campus Martius — Campo 
Santo — Death inspecting a new made grave — Pigeon- 
holes for human bones, - - - 112 
Battlefields of Hannibal and Napoleon — First view of 
the Mediterranean — Birthplace of Columbus — City of 
Genoa — A city on mountains' sides — Paint and fresco — 
Immense fortification, - - - - 'i 1 3 

XXVII. 

Genoa to Pisa — Further description of Genoa — A city 
of contrasts, - - - - 114 

Handsome girls and robust boys — Beautiful views from 
mountain drives — Magnificent Campo Santo — - 115 

A funeral — Man's desire for immortality — Mr. Blaine — 116 
Leaning tower at Pisa — Malaria — Historic ground — A 
city as old as Troy — Campo Santo and Columbaria — 117 
Italy full of pilgrims to Rome — Fighting the deadly 
malaria — Signs of recuperation — Italy destined to re- 
sume her ancient greatness, - - - 118 

XXVIII. 

Pisa to Rome — Etruscan relics — Civita Vecchia — The 
Eternal city -Old city rapidly passing away — New dis- 
coveries, • - - - - 119 
The Coliseum — "The Senate sends you this" — Last fight 
in the Coliseum, - - - - 120 
The forum — Widening the Tiber — A beautiful modern 
city of ^400,000 inhabitants — Cruelty to animals — Old 121 



XII 



Rome thirty feet below the present surface — The 
World's contributions to its old mistress — Military dis- 122 
play — Hotels — Villas and palaces — The ' King and 
Queen — An unhealthy place from May to September, 123 

XXIX. 

Traveling and Romance, - - - - 123 

Past glory of Rome, - - - 124 

Its civilization very much like our own — Penalty for 
proposing new laws — A school girl's idea of Rome — 
Cannot be seen in less than two weeks — 400 churches — 
How to see it, - - - - 125 

Reflections upon Rome, - - - 126 

The Pope's jubilee — Magnificent presents — Pious 
frauds — The black Virgin, - - - 127 

XXX. 

Rome to Naples — Last look at Rome — St. Peter's, 128 

Roman justice in 1420, A. D — Night scene in the Coli- 
seum — An ancient Roman bath, - - 129 
Her fountains and aqueducts — -The lesson of the fall of . 
Rome — Farewell to Rome, - - - 1 30 
Naples a large and flourishing city — Duchess of Edin- 
burg a guest at our hotel — Fleas, lice and beggars — 
Sights in the streets, - - - 131 
A visit to the crater of Vesuvius — Grotesque forms of 
lava — A painter's idea of hell, - - - 132 
Capri and the Blue grotto, - - - 133 

XXXI. 

Naples to Messina — Last days of Pompeii, - " i 34 

Messina — Stromboli — First sight of ^tna — Scylla and 
Charybdis — Cholera -- A Jerseyman — Hints — A slow- 
people, - ^ - - - - 135 
Italian ships — Fleas and bugs — Politeness from con- 
ductors, according to the class of your ticket — Catania 
at the foot of ^tna, - - , - - 1 36 
A sea-sick voyage to Athens — A wandering sparrow — 
The Isles of Greece, - - - 13? 
Love and death — The Piraeus — Time's ruins — Council 
of Thirty — Accumulation of wealth a capital crime, i 38 
Old and new Athens — A cosmopolitan city — The new 
Academy — A deteriorated race, - - - 1 39 

XXXII. 

Athens — Sunburned — Parthenon and Temple of Theseus, 140 



XIII 



Three principal hills — Old city carried away — Even the 
soil gone, - - - - - 141 

Wonderful changes in looo years — Necropolis — Plato's 
academy — Cimon's tomb, - - - 142 

The place from which Paul preached — The rostrum of 
Demosthenes — The Stadium — False teachings of our 
schoolmasters — Dr. Schlieman's house — A brick 4000 
years old — The Sarcophagus of Agamemnon, - 143 

Groves of Daphne — Tomb of Thermistocles — Old evo- 
lutionists — Eleusis — Salamis — Seat of Xerxes — Olive 
trees 600 years old — Shin plasters — Visit to the King's 
palace, - - - - - 145 

XXXIII. 

Athens to Constantinople — Asiatic passengers, - 146 

Embarkation on the Continent — Evolution of a man 
from a monkey — Site of Troy — The narrow Darda- 
nelles, - - - - - 147 
Stamboul, dirt and dogs — Fire regulations, - - 148 
Mohammedon dilapidation — Cruelty to men and kind- 
ness to brutes — English as spoken by the guides — Three 
Sundays — Sultan's day, - - - 149 
Ladies and eunuchs — Backshish — The pigeon mosque — 
A self-righteous old man's prayer, - -150 
Superstitions — Metempsychosis— Street scenes, 1 5 1 

XXXIV. 

Constantinople to Bucharest — Scraps of history — New 
Rome — Duke and Count — Riot of Nike, - " 152 

Blue and green — The hippodrome — Roman decree like 
the U. S. XVth amendment — Difference between like 
and similar — Stories of ignorant guides — Valuable mis- 
sionary work — Ruins of time, - - 153 
Reflections on human glory — Old prophecy nearly ful- 
filled — Cistern of 1,000 columns — The dungeon with no 
echo, - - - - - 154 
Handwriting on the wall — Keep your mouth shut 
— Golden Horn — Archery — Winter palace, - 155 
A large family — Courtiers rewarded — Crescent and 
Cross — A day in Asia — Chalcedon — City of the blind, 156 
Loaves and fishes — Splendid view — Bazaars, entry easy, 
exit difficult — Happy gate, - - ~ ^S7 
Hellespont — Bosphorous — Black sea — The Balkans — 
An old maid, - - - - 158 



XIV 



XXXV. 

Bucharest to Zurich — Bucharest a beautiful city — Great 
wheat fields — Borders of Russia — Cheap labor — Women 
Masons, - - - - ^59 

Bucharest to Turn-Severin — Up the Danube — Rich 
alluvial lands — An old feudal castle, - - i6o 

Belgrade — Old Buda-Pesth — Modernized with half a 
million inhabitants — A second Chicago — Hot Springs i6i 
and Turkish baths — Fine music — On to Vienna — A re- 
juvenated city — Changes in fifteen years — Beautiful sub- 
urbs — Second only to Paris, - - - 162 
A sight of the Emperor — Prematurely old — Schon- 
brunn — Kohlenberg — Innspruck, - - - 163 
The Austrian Tyrol — Old church at Innspruck — A Rip 
Van Winkle sleep — Over the Alps — Westward — 
Sources of the Rhine, Rhone and Danube, - 164 

XXXVI. 

Zurich to Geneva — Arlberg tunnel — 4298 feet above sea 
level — Beautiful Zurich, - - - 165 

Silk weaving — Berne — Inconsistant Sabbatarians — Old 
church— Beautiful nature — Celebrated clock, - 166 

Berne to Geneva — A Swiss family — Geneva once 
more — Towns on the lake — Castle of Chillon, - 167 

View of Mt. Blanc — Geneva watches, - 168 

XXXVII. 

Geneva to Paris — Large fields and wire fences — Six oxen 
to one plow — Changes in Paris since the Republic — 
High prices, - - - - - 169 

Hotel Continental — Paris compared with Vienna — Satan 
in Paris, - - - - - 170 

Licensed bawdy houses — Dueling — Morals bad but taste 
good — Cook's tourists — How to see the Louvre, - 171 

Sharpers — Passport annoyances to enter Germany — A 
visible war feeling for revenge, - - 172 

XXXVIII. 

Paris to Amsterdam — More about Paris — Meanness of 
hotel keepers, - - - - 173 

Reckless driving, - - - 174 

Howling for another struggle with Germany — From 
Paris to Metz — Battlefields around Metz — Strongly for- 
tified — A Germanized city, - - - i/S 



XV 



Marshal Ney's monument — Singular hotel rules - i76 

Cold weather in July — Sweet Bingen on the Rhine — 
Bingen to Cologne, down the Rhine, - - ^77 

Mountain vineyards — Two days at Cologne — Changes 
since 1869 — The bones of St. Ursula, - - 178 

XXXIX. 

Amsterdam to London — A city on piles, - - 1/9 

Delfthaven and the Mayflower pilgrims — A curious old 
town — Street scenes in Rotterdam — The rich, poor, and 
Jewish quarters — An old friend, - - 180 

A story of the capture of Rotterdam — Amsterdam — The 
Hague — Diamond cutters of Amsterdam - - 181 

Holland a kitchen garden for London — Back to London 
— Greatly improved since 1873 — Our native tongue 
once more — Hotel Metropole — Impressions after a long 
absence, - - - - - 182 

Off for the Polar regions, - . - 183 

XL. 

London to the North Cape — The tides at Tilbury — Three 
days by sea to Christiania — Rugged Norway — Moun- 183 
tains, glaciers and fjords — Christiania — A carriage drive 
at midnight — Long twilights and love, - - 1 84 

License laws — Democratic manners — Christiania to 
Throndhjem — Beautiful flowers — St. Olaf, - 185 

American flag — A German brute — A grand send off — A 
sickly moon and pale stars, - - - 186 

In the Arctic ocean — Playing with whales — Troniso — 
Ancient Thule — The birthplace of Christmas festivities — 
The Marked Hat, - - -187 

Hammerfest — Land without value — Perpetual day — 
The midnight sun, - - - - 188 

The North Cape — Course of the sun — Bird-roost 
Rock — Disappointment — Reflections, - - 190 

XLI. 

North Cape to Copenhagen — Last look at the midnight 
sun, - - - - - 190 

Depressing silence — Optical delusions — O n e visit 
enough — Back to Christiana — A viking ship over i ,000 
years old — Reflections on our ships t,ooo years hence 
Familiar names, - - - - 191 

Gin for breakfast — Old ship customs — Gottenberg — 
Prosperity in Europe — Birthplace of Hamlet — Copen- 
hagen — Kronberg castle, - - - 192 



XVI 



A popular king — Industrial exposition — Reception to 
the Emperor of Germany — Lotteries, - - 193 

Relics of the stone age — Europe, a camp and all its 
cities, arsenals, - - - - 194 

XLII. 

Copenhagen to Berlin — Political reflections — -Bismarck in 
1873 and now, - - - - I95 

Resemblance in all European cities — Berlin handsome 
but dull, - - - - - 196 

Contrast between the palaces of the old Emperor and 
the Empress — German dislike to Victoria — Lessons 
taught by the Museum of Arms — An improvement in 
street railway cars, - - - ^97 

XLIIL 

Berlin to Edinburgh — Hamburg again — The great fire of 
1842 a blessing in disguise — A beautiful city, - 199 

Daily showers to refresh the flowers — Following the 
track of spring — Goods cheap — Soon to lose its privi- 
leges as a free city — Hamburg to Lubeck, - . 200 
A curious old city — The dance of death, - - 201 
Old League Hall — Old poetry translated — On board 
ship for Edinburgh — Democrats abroad — Edinburgh 
once more — Changes in nineteen years, - 202 
Industrial Exposition at Glasgow — The Queen's jubilee 
presents — Edinburgh to York, . - - - 203 

XLIV. 

York to London — York, the oldest city in England — Ber- 
wick — Durham — Darlington and New Castle from the 
cars — Historic sketch, _ _ _ 204 

Reunion with a fellow traveler — The Cathedral — Walls, 
gates and towers of York, _ _ _ 205 

A scene from Ivanhoe — Dick Turpin and his black mare, 
Bess, ----- 206 

Micklegate bar, from which "York might look over 
York" — The Booth family — The city of my ancestors — 
Back to London — A second Babylon, - - 207 

Last letter of this series — The difficulties of letter writing, 208 

XLV. 

From New York to Liverpool in 1889 — How they reckon 
time from city to city, - - - 208 

Glimpses at life on a ship — The iron age — Size and ap- 
pointments of the ship — A floating city, - 209 



XVII 



A death on the ship (a human sacrifice) — MoonHght on 
the sea — Beautiful stars — How to find latitude and 
longitude by the stars — Distinguished passengers — 
Purse-proud people, - - - - 210 

Taken for a preacher — A blue stocking, - 211 

XLVI. 

Liverpool to Rouen — Great ships can only enter Liver- 
pool at high water — A crank, - - - 212 
Happy childhood — The wonderful docks of Liverpool — 
St. George's hall — Birkhenhead tunnel — Birmingham — 
— Warwick Castle — Rural England, - - 213 
Stratford-on-Avon — An Englishman's idea of Philadel- 
phia — Prosperity in England — Kenilworth — Slums of 
London, - - - - - 214 
Brighton — New Haven — Sudden change from England 
to France — Rouen — Jeanne D'Arc — The Butter tower, 215 
Bird's eye view of Rouen, - - - 216 

XLVIL 

Rouen to Paris — What can be seen in sixty days, - 216 

An old Parisian hotel with a history — Paris in her Sun- 
day clothes, - - - 217 
The great exposition of 1889 — The Eiffel tower a mint, 218 
How men and horses look from the top of the tower — 
A night scene at the exposition — St. Germain — Gas- 
light in Paris, - - - - 219 

XLVin. 

Paris to .Marseilles — Along walk — Buttes Chauniont — Tf 
lonely look up — Rural France — Old fashioned harvest- 220 
ing — Battlefields and historic places — Study of French 
in a railroad car, - - - - 221 

A bad blunder in French— Lyons from Mount Four- 
viere, . . _ . . 222 

Silk industries — Scrap of history — On to Marseilles — 
Valance — Anecdote of Napoleon, - • - 223 

Many square miles of cobblestones — First sight of Mar- 
seilles, - ... - 224 

XLIX. 

France to Spain — Marseilles as I saw it, - - 224 

Chateau d'lf — Politicians' paradise, - - 225 

One of Plato's jokes — A visit to a French court, - 226 



XVIII 



A flea hunt — To Barcelona by sea — A beautiful Span- 
ish city — Mosquitoes — Fruits and flowers, - 227 
A city 300 years before Christ — Paradisaical villas — 
Spanish customs disappearing — Scanty bathing suits, 228 
Barcelona to Zaragoza — Size of Spain — Monserrat — 
Dried up rivers — Burnt up vegetation, - - 229 
Spain the graveyard of its ancient glory — Zaragoza — 
Moorish manners — ^Lerida, - - - 230 
Ihe maid of Zaragoza — The Virgin Mary and Napo 
leon — Reflections, - - - - 231 
Steam vs. Romance — A city founded by Tubal — Ab- 
sence of forest fires — O'Shea's guide to Spain — Beautiful 
Madrid, - . . . . 232 
Magnificent art gallery — The Escurial a humbug — The 
crazy work of an insane king, - - 233 

LI. 

Madrid to Seville — A Spanish bull-fight, - - 234 

The fight described, - - 234 to 237 

Peculiar desire to see another fight — On to Seville — '■ 
Drouth — Seville most enchanting by night — A dull 
place by day — Yum- Yum — A declining city — The Al- 
cazar — 400,000 depopulation in one year — Pretty Span- 
ish maidens, - - . . 238 
The old women very ugly, - - - 239 

LII. 

Seville to Cadiz — Cacti horse-high and hog-strong, - 239 

Mankind the same throughout the world — Girls and 
beggars — Sherry wine — sacreligious names, - 240 

Hunting without dogs — Salt vats — Cadiz — Night scenes 
of beauty — The city a fort, - - - 241 

No carpets — Tile floors and whitewashed house — The 
cathedral — Too much religion, - - 242 

The fossils of Spain — Dangers — Difficulties and disap- 
pointments — Nearly wrecked — Waiting for Sunday, 243 

LIII. 

Cadiz to Tangier — Labor omnia vincit — An oriental city in 
Africa, . . _ . . 244 

Cape Trafalgar — Scene of Nelson's victory and death — 
Reflections — Erroneous impressions of Africa — Our 
Consul in bad repute — Moors— White slaves, - 245 



XIX 



$2^ for the soul and body of a beautiful girl — Polygamy 
A place without law — Going upon the house top to 
pray — The " Needle's Eye" — " New wine in old bottles," 246 
Bigoted Mohammedans — Sleeping with the heels up 
and head down — Graveyards of the faithful — Pilgrims 
for Mecca — Moorish modesty — Mohammedan saints — 
Palace, - - . . . 247 

Barracks — Jail — School — A Moorish cafe and concert — 
A guard by night — Dogs — Only six hours from west- 
ern to eastern civilization, - - . 248 
A sea bath — Beginning of the end, - - 249 

LIV. 

Tangier to Cordova — Cadiz from the sea — Dilapidated 
Cordova — Caesar's revenge — From 300,000 to 50,000 
inhabitants, - - - - 250 

The mosque of 1,000 columns — Roman bridge and 
Moorish mills, - - - -251 

Primitive farming — High taxes — The country of Don 
Quixote — Valladolid — ^4 for a seat to see heretics 
burned, - - - - - 252 

Burgos, birtliplace of the Cid — Solomon's mines, - 253 

Back to Paris — Sober second thought of the Exposi- 
tion — P^minent men of the past 100 years, - 254 

LV. 

Paris to Liverpool — Plomeward bound — Neuralgia in 
Paris, - . - _ _ 254 

Renowned Frenchmen — Politics and prophecy, - 255 

An astonished cabman — Dover, - - - 256 

A London fog — Sunday in Hyde Park — Free speech 
and fair play, - - - - 257 

Democracy in London — A conundrum — Covent Gar- 
den at day break. - _ _ . 248 
P. D, Q. — Glimpse at Gladstone — Old shipmates — Last 
letter of this series, - - - 259 

LVL 

Last trip abroad — The start — Bon voyage — La Normandie 
of the French line — A good ship, - - 260 

The passengers — Love, romance and sea sickness — A 
little politics — A lost leaf from a lady's diary, - 261 

Gulls, vultures and men — A storm and accident, - 262 

Unlucky thirteen — Reflections — " Ship sailors and seas" 
— The captain's dinner, - - - - 263 



XX 



LVII. 

Paris to Bordeaux — National extravagance a blessing — 
Paris again — Economy of the French, - - 264 

High prices — Sun of Austerlitz, - - 265 

Industrious peasantry — Dried up Australia — Orleans 
Jeanne D'Arc, . . ,. . 266 

. Antiquity of Orleans — Cathedral — Hotel de Ville — 
Bordeaux, - - - . . 267 

Fickle Fame — Incidents of history — St. Michael's 
mummies, - - . . 268 

LVIII. 

Bordeaux to Marseilles — Poitiers — Toulouse — Marseilles 
once more, - - - - - . 269 

Sub-tropical climate — World renowned harbor — A 
French punster — Marsailles to Algiers — Game in 270 
Africa — Algiers in 1830 — Pirates and robbers — Homely 271 
women Scorpions — -Algiers to Tunis — Approaching 
the great desert — Setif, - - - 272 

Constantine — Roman ruins — Milky white moors — Veiled 
women — Turbaned Turks, etc , - - - 273 

Shepherds and their flocks — Wives an article of trade — 
The harem — The Bible and the koran, - 274 

LIX. 

Tunis to Nice — Mountain scenery in Africa — Tunis older 
than Carthage or Rome, - - . - 274 

The tragic story of Carthage — Dido et Dux, - 276 

A very old lover — Interesting ruins — An Arab guide — 
Palace and harem of the Bey — More wives, more waste 
— Life-sized portrait of Washington — Amusements of 
the harem, . . - . . 278 

Forbidden fruit — Backsheesh — La Goulette, - 279 

Back to Marseilles — The Marsellaise hymn — Along the 
Riviera — Cannes — Nice, - - - 280 

LX. 

Nice to Florence — Climate of the Litteral dependant on 
the wind — Charming Nice, - - - 281 

View from Campo Santo — Gambetta's grave — Caterina 
Segurana — Garibaldi's birthplace — Differences in French 
pronunciation, .... 282 

Nice to Manaco — Monte Carlo — Splendid church from 
profits of gambling — Fighting the tiger — Enormous 283 



XXI 



gains of the Casino — Mentone — San Reino — Genoa — 
Pisa — Florence, . - . . 284 

Hidden charms — Conceited artists — A miracle, - 285 

LXI. 

Florence to Venice — More about the miracles, - - 286 

A Florentine pun — Treasures of art, - - 287 

Masonic emblems — Gate of Paradise — A work of Bene- 
venuto Cellina — Campo Santo, - - - 288 

A fashionable drive — Florence to Bologna — Lodged in 
palace — Leaning towers — Bologna to Venice — Another 
palace converted to a hotel, - - - 289 

Low prices in Venice — Necessity for protection — A 
unique city — No horses, carts or dogs — The plague — 
Titien's first love, . - - - 290 

. Othello's and Desdemona's houses — Shylock vs. Antonio 
— Clock tower — St. Mark's square, - • - 291 

The Lion's mouth — Inquisition, - - - 292 

LXIL 

Venice to Paris — More about the Inquisition, - - 293 

Classic and historical places — St. Mark's church — Palace 
of the Doges, .... 294 

Bridge of Sighs — Population — A city on piles — Padua 
— Milan again — World renowned cathedral, • - 295 

Travelers' hobby — A coincidence — Milan to Turin — Ma- 
genta, ..... 296 
Turin a city of arcades — Shin plaster currency — A 
Methodist church in Milan — Turin to Macon, - 297 
Mt. Cenis tunnel — An enchanted castle — Aix Les 
Baines — Lake Bourget — Macon, and back to Paris, 298 



PART II. 

American hunts and travels, - - - 299 

I. 

Philadelphia to Niagara Falls — Mania potu on the cars — 
Incidents on the road, - - - 301 

Scenery — Mauch Chunk — Wilkes Barre — A picnic dis- 
turbed — Wyoming, - - - ' - 302 
The beautiful Genesee P"alls — Buffalo — Niagara — How 
to see the falls, , _ , . 303 



XXII 



n. 

Niagara to Saratoga, . . _ _ 304 

When shall the lakes be emptied ? — Morgan's watery 
grave — The Thousand Isles, - - . 305 

The rapids — Frost at Montreal in August — View from 
Mount Royal — Lake George, ... 306 

Old-fashioned stage coaches — Fort Ticondercga — A 
spread-eagle speech — Saratoga, - - 307 

Gambling and flirting — Diamonds and dresses, - 308 

III. 

Battlefield of Gettysburg — Compared with Waterloo, 308 

The field as I saw it — To understand the struggle we 
must see the ground, - . . . 309 

Terrible slaughter at Gulp's Hill, - . 310 

Liberty guarding her battlefield — Round Top — Meade's 
headquarters, - - - - 311 

Remaining evidences of the battle, - - 312 

IV. 

A hunt in Arkansas — Pennsylvania compared with her sis- 
ter States, - - - - 313 
The Hot Springs — Farm houses as hotels — Reflections 
upon the character of the people — An amusing story, 3 1 4 
A negro experience meeting — A negro soldier's letter 
to his wife, - - - - - 31 5 
Little Rock — Character of the people — Hunting on the 316 
grand prairie — Rattlesnakes and whiskey, .- 317 
A case of buck fever — Rail birds on the prairie, - 318 

V. 

A hunt on the Blue Ridge — A politician — A forgetful 
party — An unpleasantness, - - - 3^9 

Battlefields and beautiful scenery — Roanoke — A won- 
berful spring, . . . . 320 

Republican party of the South — .War recollections — 
Tariff Democrats — A divided house — Good hunting — • 
The sleep of innocence, - - - - 321 

Hunting on horseback — The pleasures of a hunter's life — 
Epitaph to Mahone, - - - 322 

VI. 



0-- 



A winter in Florida — Double fete day, 

Jacksonville — St. Augustine — History — Indian war — 
Northern capital, - ^ • - 323 



XXIIt 



Hotel Ponce de Leon, - - - 324 

American exaggeration, - - - 325 

VII. 

Florida to Key West — Winter Park, - - 325 

Orange groves — Hotel Seminole — Lakes, fish and 
game, _ . . ^ . 326 

Kissemee — A conductor's mistake — Sugar and the 
tariff — Good cars, but bad roads — Tampa, - 327 

The Port Tampa Inn — Pelicans — A Portuguese man of 
war — Key West — The wedded fig tree, - - 328 

Havana — Bad passport regulations^ — Worse currency — 
New stars — Canopus, - - - 329 

The ashes of Columbus — Sudden changes of tempera 
ture — Strange street sights, - - - 3 30 

Theatre on Sunday, - - - 331 

VIII. 

Florida, Jamaica and Bermuda, - - . 332 

Jacksonville — Sub-tropical exhibition — Emotional wor- 
ship — Superstitions, - - - 333 
River St. John — Spanish cruelty and its revenge — Ori- 
gin of name of Florida — The State redeemed from the 
sea — Remarkable springs, . . - 334 
Uncertain time table — A landlord's smile — Live Oak, 335 
Journey to New Brandford, - - - 3 36 

IX. 

Unpunished assassins — La Grippe — More delays — 105 
miles down the Suwanee river — Sulphur Springs, - 3 37 

Alligators, turkeys and turtles — Charming scenery — 
Cedar Key, - - - - 3 38 

Shut out of a hotel by the Sheriff — A picnic — Silver 
Spring — The Ocklawaha — How they settled a dispute 
over the title to a hotel, - - - 339 

Suggestive names of Florida towns, - - 340 

X. 

Ocala to Tampa — Backbone of Florida — Farmers' Alli- 
ance — Exhibition at Ocala — Sunshine a source of 
wealth — A 22 pound sweet potato — 41 full-sized cocoa- 
nuts on one stem — All Democrats — Cars on time for 
once, - . . - . 341 

Tampa Bay hotel — One of the finest in the world, 342 

Sad fate of a young Englishman, - - - 343 



XXIV 



XI. 



P>om Tampa to Jamaica — A leader in the Farmers' Alli- 
ance — Slips of the tongue, - - - 344 
Mr. Cleveland's good luck — More delays — At sea in an 
old side-wheeler — A sea-sick party, - - 345 
Table scene on the ship — First sight of the Southern 
Cross — Reflections on time and space, - - 346 
Looking upward and downward — The captain's idea of 
the distance of the stars — Half an hour too late — So 
near and yet so far, - - - 347 
Reflections on Paradise, - - - - 348 

XII. 

In the tropics — Kingston — Myrtle Bank Hotel, - 348 

Buzzards as scavengers — Peculiar construction of the 
city — Old slave days, - - . 349 

Earthquakes — The story of Lewis Galby — Three 
classes — The World's Fair — Canada vs. the U. S.,- 350 

XIII. 

Jamaica as near the Equator as the North Cape is to the 
Pole — Mountainous, but fertile and neglected, - 351 . 

Women as common laborers — Wages — Averse to work 
— One white person to fifty colored — Nature supplies 
nearly every want — Longitude of Philadelphia — Reflec- . 
tions, - - - - - 352 

Market day — A New York colored man's opinion of a 353 
Jamaica nigger — English as they speak it — Cheap ci- 
gars — The Exposition, - - - . 354 
The harbor — Fate of deserters from a Russian man-of- 
war — U. S. money worth more than sterling — No Irish- 
men in Jamaica, - - - - 355 

XIV. 

Mountain scenery — Ticks and lice, - - - 356 

No game and few snakes — Enormous cisterns — Old 
sugar plantations — No farms or farmers — Spanish Town 
and the bog walk, - - - - 357 

Creepers — Grottoes — Vistas — Constant Spring — One 
visit enough. ----- 358 

XV. 

Jamaica to Bermuda — More about Jamaica — Reflections 359 
— Human interference with the harmony of nature — 360 



XXV 



The rat and the mangoose, - - - j6o 

Old Port Royal — The Gomorrah of Jamaica — Turk's 
Island — Miscegenation — A precocious boy — Hayti's 
opinion of white people, - - - 361 

Ship life, the same old story — May and November — A 
love scene — Looking at the stars — The storm and sea- 
sickness, - - - - _ 262 
A game of euchre — Canada vs. U. S. — Three cheers for 
Sir John and Canada, - - - . 363 

XVI. 

First impressions of Bermuda, - - - 364 

Historical sketch — The scene of Shakespeare's "Tem- 
pest"---Hog money — Bermuda's friendship for our pa- 
triot sires — Complete change of sentiment — Her strong 
sympathy for the late rebellion — A nest of hornets for 
blockade runners, - - - . 365 

Description of Bermuda — Nothing else to do, - 366 

Splendid roads — Good climate, but no place for an in- 
valid, ----- 367 
Youth and death, - - - _ 368 

XVII. 

Four black to one white person — A hint to our Southern 
States — Americans not permitted to own land — An 
ugly report about General Hastings, of Ohio — Etiquette 
on the islands, - - . . 36Q 

Honest and pious people, but somewhat inconsistent, 370 
Amusements, innocent and otherwise — A New York 
belle who left because she had nothing to wear — The 
dockyards and defences, - - ~ 37^^ 

XVIII. 

A chance to escape, . . - _ 3^2 

The Spanish Rock — Devil and heretics — Colonial rec- 
ords of the islands. 

Vegetation injured by the salt sprays — The unfortunate 
"Chapel of Ease" — An old female poker player — Beau- 
tiful drives, - - . . . on a 
Caverns and grottoes — A day at the dockyards — Arrival 
of five war ships, - - - _ 37c 
An old sailor's pun — A genuine octopus, - . 376 

XIX. 

A sail among the small islands — St. George, the light- 



373 



XXVI 



house and Tuckcrtown — The coral reefs — Rock studies — 
Specimens of coral, - - - 377 

Devil's hole — Joyce's cave — A church schism with its 
usual consequences, . - . . 378 

Crowded hotels — Angry excursionists, - - 379 

A glance at society — Her Majesty's tailless red coats, 380 
Old girls and faded roses, - - - 381 

XX. 

Hunting in Virginia — A Marylander's opinion of Yankees, 381 
Virginia hospitality — A lost dog, - - 382 

Woodcock and woodpeckers — Great fields, - - 383 

Our first duck — A coon hunt — Weeds with roots at both 384 
ends — The lost found — An anecdote — "Millions of 
ducks" — A disappointment — A sweet sleep on the 
ground, .... 385 

Fireside stories, .... 386 

Delapidation and waste, - ■ - 387 

XXI. 

A North Carolina Hunt in winter — The hunter's paradise . 
- — Vicissitudes, .... 388 

Snow and ice at Norfolk — Value of the telephone — Five 
miles in an open wagon with the temperature near zero 
— Pain the price of pleasure, - - . 389 

Partridges, rabbits, turkeys and deer — A frozen ther- 
mometer — Coldest weather in 30 years — A deer hunt — 
5 degrees above zero, .... 390 
A timely blizzard — A ride on a mule — A wager and a 
moot court, - - - - 391-2 

Old Wash and his toasts, - - - 393 



BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH 

OF THE CLAYTON FAMILY, WITH SOME PERSONAL RECOLLECTIONS 
OF BETHEL AND BRANDYWINE HUNDRED. 



PART I. 

PATERNAL LINE. 

Lost links — Authorities, .... 396 
Clayton hall, Yorkshire — Clayton (Claytown), Sussex — 
P'amily coat of arms, - - - 397 



XX vn 



Language of Heraldr)- — Sir Jasper — The Virginia branch 

— An anecdote, - - - . 398 

The Delaware branch — Joshua Clayton — William of Chi- 
chester, the progenitor of the Pennsylvania branch, ' 399 
Saint Waiter Martin's hatred of the Quakers, - - 400 

The story of Clem Hathaway, at Port Penn — How my 
grandmother punished her husband for becoming a 
Methodist, ■ - -' - 401 

Family connections, - - . _ 402 

Anecdote of John Faulk, - - 403 

Incident in the life of John Faulk, Jr., - - 404 

Origin of the name "Claymont" — A bad Delaware law, 405 
Feasts at funerals — Aunt Levina, - . 406 

Old-time carpenters — Why I was named Thomas Jeffer- 
son — Origin of the name "Whig," - - . 407 
Why the name "Tyler" was stricken from my brother 
John's name — Clayton cider, - - 408 

MATERNAL LINE. 

Grandfather Clark — An old Tory — Anecdote of grand- 
father Clark — His sword turned into a corkscrew — A 
mortal insult, - - - . . 409 

His grave in Bethel church yard — Captain William Glover 
— Commodore Decatur, - - - - 410 

Sixty-four years a Methodist — My mothers Christian char- 
acter and good sense — Family connections, ' - 411 

My brothers Powell, John and William, - -* 412 



PART II. 

Why I became a lawyer — My mother's ambition — My 
father's Advice — Early efforts in anatomy — An unjust 
reputation, - ... . - 413 

A fist fight in a church — Father Hance a true friend, 414 

A schism in Bethel church — Choir and anti-choir, - 415 

The tragic as well as comic side of the quarrel — T\\g Devil 
in the guise of a note book — An old blacksmith's idea of 
music, - - - - - 416 

A church trial — A preacher out-witted, - - 417 

First efforts as an advocate — The trial, - - 418 

The grains of sand that changed the course of the river of 
my life, - - - - - 419 



XXVIII 

History of a business card — Importance of little things — 
History of an old letter, - - . 420 

Personal inspection of another's work, worth-^io,ooo to a 
client, - - - - , - 421 

An angry old lawyer, - - . . 422 

Comedies and tragedies of a lawyer's life, - - 423 



PART HI. 

Recollections of Bethel and Brandywine Hundred sixty 
years ago — Anti railroad times — First temperance so- 
ciety, - . _ . . 425 
The old Post road — Hotel keeping of the olden time — The 
fireside and bake oven — No gas or coal — ^The " Corder " 
— Daily news, .... 426 
Oven wood — Anglo-Phobia — Schoolmaster, - - 427 
Five miles around Bethel church — Handsome women and 
beautiful girls — Woodlands — Game — Farm hands 
— Woodsmen, . . . . 428 
Cranky men — Witches — P'ortune Tellers — Aunty Burnet's 

snake story, - . - . _ 429" 

A viper in my path — Granny Eastlick — The bewitched cow 430 
Fireside stories — Emmor Lloyd — The bewitched child 

— Polly pudding, - - - 431 

The bewitched rabbit — Hunter's revenge, - - 432 

The broken spell and fractured leg, - - 433 

Mousley's adventure at the devil's rock — Relics of the 

stone age, - . . _ - 4^4 

An old man turned into an old mare — A bad case of night 
mare — Jehu Forwood's power to stop pain and blood 
— Planting according to the signs, - - 435 

The lucky bone — The bewitched churn — The water wizard, 436 
The weather-wise — Signs of the weather, - - 4 37 

Changes in religious worship — Old Methodist preachers 

" Lash the devil" — "Small souls," - - 438 

Funeral sermons over babies — The country store — A 

chronic liar, - - - - - 439 

A remarkable shot, - - - - 440 

Old Fanny Cherry — Molly Shades' Speak-easy, - 441 

Postscript, ----- 442 



L 

UST-Ew "York 'to Queenstown — Parting Scenes — 'Live oisi 
THE Ocean Wave— Gambling and Drinking — Cockney 
English — First Sight of Irelane — Queenstown and 
Cork Harbor — European Hotels. 

Cork, Ireland, June i86g. 
I left New York on the 12th inst, , and arrived at Queens- 
town on tlie 2ist. Our vo5^age was pleasant, and the winds 
snd weather propitious. It may be interesting to describe life 
■on the sea. To the reflecting mind a trip across the Atlantic 
is full of profitable lessons. I took my stand on the promenade 
•deck where I could observe both cabin and steerage passen- 
gers as they came on board. Old men wept as they bade fare-, 
well to their sons, and the heaving bosoms of tender maidens 
indicated the heart struggles within as they parted from their 
lovers, perhaps to meet no more. A poor lad, apparently in 
the last stages of consumption, seemed loth to quit the fond 
embrace of his weeping mother who, as a forlorn hope of res- 
toration, had consented to his departure. I do not think she 
will see him again. From these sad parting scenes I concluded 
we were to have a melancholy trip, but we had not been at sea 
twenty-four hours before I was led to modify my views. For 
four days I saw but few sober men. The only amusement was 
drinking and gambling. They bet on everything, from the 
toss of a penny or turn of a card to the run of the ship ; one 
gentleman bet ^80 (about $400 American gold) on the toss of 
a penny. The other part}^ to the wager pocketed the money 
as coolly as a beggar would a penny. The second day out was 
Sunday, and although we had five clergymen on board no one 
proposed religious service, not even myself ; I confess I forgot 
the day. I saw one of the clergymen coolly looking on at a 
game of euchre, with a sovereign on each corner. That night 
he fell out of his berth and dislocated his shoulder ; the poor 
fellow was under the doctor's hands for the rest of the voyage. 
I asked one of his companions how it happened. He said, 
" Oh, he smoked too much." 

The cabin passengers were a mixture of all nations, and 
were composed of Americans, Irishmen, Englishmen, and 
Frenchmen, with a few Italians, Spaniards, Germans, and 
Scotchmen. One fellow was quite a character. He delighted 
in the name of Captain. He had been all over America, and 
was ready to swear that it contained nothing worth seeing, not 
even a rose. His seat was opposite mine at table. We had 



New York to Queenstown. 



oranges after dinner ; he called the steward and demanded- a 
knife and fork ; said he : "" Hi never could heat han horange 
without a fowk, hit seems so dem'd vulgaw.^'' Turning to his 
companion, a Captain in the English army, he said : " How 
joli it will be to get ^ ame to hold Hengland ; hafter hall hit his 
the honly place hem hearth for men and 'arses.'" I suggested 
that it also produced some very fine asses ; after which sugges- 
tion I did not presume to raise my eyes for full ten seconds, 
expecting all the time the concussion of a champagne bottle 
with my head. Upon presuming to look up I was met with a 
withering scowl from all the English passengers at our table. 
The captain of the ship remarked that the American gentle- 
man was inclined to be jokeftd. 

Off the coast of Newfoundland we encountered a dense 
fog. With the greatest effort I could not see twenty yards 
from the ship ; withal it was exceedingly cold ; we saw no ice, 
but felt it in the air. The officers on duty were very vigilant. 
A watch of four sailors kept a sharp lookout ahead A bright 
light was placed at the masthead, and the steam whistle was 
blown every half minute during the entire night. The great- 
est danger at sea is from fire and fogs. Had a ship or iceberg 
crossed our path you would, perhaps, never have heard from 
us. From this time until we first saw land, officers and pas- 
sengers were tolerably soh&c . The day before we saw land was 
Sunday ; we had the regular Church of England service for 
the sea. I was promenading on deck, and observed the officers 
anxiously looking northeast, where I observed what I supposed 
was the dim outline of a cloud. It proved to be the bleak 
and rocky coast of Ireland. 

The ship accommodations and fare were all that could be 
desired. Clean berths, good attendants and obliging stewards. 
From 5 to 7 o'clock A. M. we had coffee ; at 9, breakfast ; at 
12, lunch ; dinner at 4 P. M., and supper from 7 to 9 P. M. 
Custom requires passengers on quitting the ship to leave a 
sovereign with the stewards and attendants, usually distributed 
as follows : 10.?. to the head table steward, 6^-. to the bed stew- 
ard, and the balance to the cabin boy and bootblack. 

Our steamer did not enter the harbor at Queenstown, but 
signalled by means of rockets, and was met in the channel by a 
steamboat which took off the passengers and mails for Queens- 
town. The town is situate upon an abrupt bank and previously 
to 1849 was called Cove. It was then visited by the Queen, 
and has since been dignified by its new name. It is beautiful 
and picturesque, built in tiers or terraces upon a hill nearly as 
abrupt as Fairmount, facing the wire bridge at Philadelphia. 
The hill rises so high behind the town that a person standing 
on any of the eminences can look down the chimne5''S of the 



QUEENSTOWN TO KiLLARNEY, 



lioTises on the lower tier. Great labor has been expended on 
the streets ; they are as smooth and clean as a floor, and as 
hard as the hearts of the Irish landlords. From Queenstown 
southeast the prospe(^t is charming- Cork harbor and passage 
lie in front and around it to the right. It is the finest harbor 
in the world, and^ could afford shelter to the entire English 
fleet. Spike Island lies directly in front. It is a convict 
depot, with room for two thousand prisoners. Rocky Island, 
also in view, contains a powder magazine hewn into the solid 
rock, in six chambers. It contains 10,000 barrels of gun- 
powder. Hawbowline is an island opposite Spike. It has a 
fresh-water tank holding 5000 tons of water. It was in this 
harbor that Drake took shelter when pursued by the Spaniards, 
He was so effectually hidden in Cross Haven Creek that they 
believed his escape to be the work of magic. His hiding place 
is known to this day as " Drake's Pool." The finest hotel in 
the place is the Queen's ; it fully equals the Girard House, 
Philadelphia. It is, of course, conducted on the European 
plan, containing drawing-room, coffee-room, and salle a manger 
for gentlemen and ladies, and a commercial room for mer- 
chants, tradesmen, etc. The scale of prices varies, the draw- 
ing-room guests being charged about one-third more than 
those of the commercial room. 

Meals will be served for the drawing-room guests either 
in their chambers, salle a manger, or drawing-room, as desired, 
and at any hour. Everything is itemized in the bill. Upon 
the whole, my impressions of Ireland are good. 



11. 

Queenstown to Kii^larney— Old Castles — Cork — Shan- 
don — Royal Names — Irish Farmers— Frogs and. Snakes 
—Blarney Castle— Beggars — Lakes of Killarney — 
Musical Echoes — St. John's Day at Killarney. 

Lakes of Killarney, June, 1869. 
From Queenstown to this place, by way of Cork, is about 
seventy-five miles. It is eleven miles from Queenstown to 
Cork by rail, and fourtsen by river. Tourists should by all 
means choose the latter ; the scenery is really superb. The 
shore rises in groves and hills crowned with splendid edifices, 
public and private. Two castles are passed. The one at 
Monkstown, erected by Anastatia Goold,. in 1636, is now a 
ruin. The other, known as Blackrock, stands upon a promon- 
tory, and at a distance looks like a formidable old castle. It 



4 QUEEN'STOWN TO KlLLAKNEY.. 

is of comparatively modern construction. It was from this 
place that William Penn^ who had been converted at Cork to- 
Quakerism, embarked for America.. 

Cork is quite a considerable town. It contains about 
eighty thousand inhabitants ;, its population decreases about 
six thousand in ten years. This is true of all the cities and 
towns of Ireland. The river I^ee, upon which it is built, forks, 
at the city ;, the town is built on the swamp between the forks,, 
and on. the high hills on the north and south of both branches. 
It takes its name from its location, Corcagh^ the original Irish 
name, meaning a swamp. It is one of the oldest towns in 
Ireland, and was the site of a Pagan temple, which was de- 
stroyed in the seventh century. The streets of the older parts 
of the city are very narrow, ranging from four to thirty feet ; 
Grand Parade and St. Patrick's Streets, however, are from 
eighty to one hundred and fifty feet wide, being wider in some 
places than others. The Imperial Hotel is fully equal to any 
second-class hotel in America. It fronts upon Pembroke 
Street, barely twenty-five feet wide. The streets in the old 
part of the city run in every conceivable way, making all 
kinds of angles, circles, triangles, elliptics, and now and then,, 
for one square, a straight line. The quays are built of solid 
oblong granite blocks, and are walled up on both sides of the 
river's branches, at least six feet above high water. The town ■ 
is united by six bridges of solid masonry. The public build- 
ings are really a credit to the city. The court house and the 
county jail are noble edifices, far superior to any of the class 
in Pennsylvania. It also contains stores on Grand Parade and 
St. Patrick's Streets, equal to those of Market Street, Phila- 
delphia. It boasts of eight scientific institutions, but as an 
offset I counted thirty-three pawnbrokers. I noticed a pecu- 
liarity in the numbering of the houses, which I am told pre- 
vails all over Ireland. The numbers begin on one side at the 
commencement of the street and run consecutively to the end,, 
then turn and come down the other side — thus No. lo St. 
Patrick's Street is opposite No. 130 on the other side of the 
street. The city contains some splendid churches. The most 
celebrated has been neglected since Cromwell took the town 
and melted all the church bells into cannon. The steeple or 
Shandon, to which I refer, is of solid masonry, and one hun- 
dred and twenty feet high, standing upon a hill on the north 
side of the north branch of the Lee. It has yet a good chime 
of bells. 

"Those Shandon bells-'. 
Whose sound so wild, would, 
In the days of childhood, 
Fling round my cradle 
Their magic spells." 



OUEENSTOWN TO KlLLAKNEY, 



I heard them, and can bear witness to their sweetness. 
The town delights in royal names ; you see them on every- 
thing, such as the Imperial Hotel, the Royal Victoria, the 
Queens, the Prince of Wales, the Princess Royal, Prince 
Arthur, the King's Arms, etc., etc. The country around 
Cork is naturally fertile, but badly cultivated. The land is 
mostly owned in England, and is cultivated by tenants who, 
as a rule, hold at sufferance from year to year. The farms 
contain from one to ten acres, with no barns or houses ; if a 
tenant was to build himself a house his rent would be at once 
raised. I noticed as an emblem of Justice, the Goddess on 
the court house held in her hand an old-fashioned pair of steel- 
yards, banished from America long ago because of their imcer- 
tainty. I suppose it to be a true emblem of English justice 
for poor Ireland. 

There are plenty of frogs around Cork. I saw a fine large 
one on the bank of the lake. I said to my coachman : 'I 
thought you told me that St. Patrick banished from Ireland 
all the frogs, toads and snakes." "Oh," said he, "That's 
not a frog, that's only a waterjack.'" The castle and lake of 
Blarney are about five miles from Cork. The castle is now a 
ruin ; it was built by Cormac McCarthy, in 1446. The mas- 
sive donjon tower that remains is 120 feet high, and must have 
been indeed a strong, and I would say, from its ruins, an im- 
pregnable place, before the introduction of gunpowder. I 
kissed the Blarney stone, a somewhat perilous task, as it is 
about six feet down from the parapet, and while performing 
the devotion your head is down and your heels up ; b)^ hold- 
ing firmly to the two iron bars, with the assistance of your 
guide, who holds you by tho^ feet, the. feat can be accom- 
plished. The groves and lake of Blarney are lovely and ro- 
mantic ; they have been the theme of many Irish songs. The 
Reliques of Father Prout alludes to them and the " stone," 

" There is a stone there 
That whoever kisses^ 
Oh ! he never misses 
To grow eloquent. 

"'Tis he may clamber 
To a lady's chamber,. 
Or become a member 
Of Parliament " 

A short distance from the castle is a cave said to lead tc^ 
the bottom of the lake, 360 yards off". As we approached it 
we heard the fiddler of Blarney saiviiig away on ' ' Yayikee 
Doodle.'' There were five tourists in our party ; of course we 
gave him sixpence each, after which you should have heard 
the blarney, for it was beyond description. Rabbits are quite 



6 QUEENSTOWN TO KfLLARNEY. 

thick, and birds fl}^ around the streets of Cork as tame as 
chickens. The crows are also numerous, and as tame as 
pigeons ; this is because of the severity of the game laws ; no 
one in Ireland is allowed to carry a gun without royal permis- 
sion, and a license in his pocket. 

The most striking peculiarity of Ireland is its beggars ; 
they importune you at every step. Cork is full of them ; I saw 
ten at once make a raid upon a gentleman and lady while 
walking on the Mardyke, a very beautiful promenade, about a 
mile long, with stately elms on both sides and arches every 
few yards, from the apex of which are suspended lamps which 
give it a most enchanting appearance at night. From Cork to 
Killarney we passed several ruined castles. The railroads are 
far superior to ours in construction ; so with the common roads, 
they are all in splendid order ; no wooden bridges, they are 
all of stone, even the platforms along the road are built of 
dressed stone. 

The railway hotel is decidedly the best in Killarney. It 
is built of square dressed stone ; the walls are three feet thick ; 
it contains everything necessary for a first-class hotel, and has 
one hundred large, airy, and elegantly-furnished guest cham- 
bers, coffee-room, commercial-room, large drawing-rooms, salle 
a manger, and breakfast-room. It is well kept, and the prices 
are reasonable. 

On the 25th inst., I visited the " L^akes of Killarney," 
a most charming place. No tongue can tell or pen describe, 
the ever-changing scenery. It must be seen to be compre- 
hended. Its lakes, glens, cascades, and mountains present to 
the eye a panorama of unequalled loveliness. The journey 
through the lakes and over the mountain passes, by carriage, 
foot, and boat, is at least 31 miles. I only gave it one day, 
and went the whole journey. At one point our guide played 
an air on his bugle ; the whole range of mountains took up 
the echo ; he was hid from our view, and had we been ignor- 
ant of its origin, we would have thought the mountains full of 
musicians. While passing the Gap of Dunloe we overtook 
about forty gentlemen enjoying a picnic. They recognized me, 
and insisted on me joining them ; I was fatigued, and gladly 
partook of their refreshments. The remaining gentlemen of 
our party supposed I had found a company of American friends. 
They could not be convinced that we had never met before, 
until informed by the landlord that they were members of 
Trales lyodge, F. A. M., No. 379, spending St. John's day at 
the lyakes. God bless the craft around the globe ! I sat with 
them that night at table lodge at their hotel and was royally 
entertained. 

I leave Killarney with regret. I feel that I shall not look 



KiLLARNEY TO DuBLIN. 



upon its like again. But one thing marred my enjoyment — its 
beggars ; it beggars d.t.sQxv^\\ovL to do them justice. They fol- 
lowed us four miles over the mountain, and could not be 
scolded, coaxed, or kicked away. At the town of Killarney 
— a very mean place — I met a bare-headed, bare-footed men- 
dicant friar, with gown and cowl, and shaved head, an old 
rope for a girdle, and rosary hanging by his side ; just such a 
picture as you have often seen in old paintings. 



III. 

Killarney to Dublin — Irish Railways — The Peasantry 
— An Irish American — Pre-historic Round Towers — 
Bogs — Decreasing Population — American Farming Im- 
plements — Dublin, its Bridges, Gardens and Public 
Buildings. 

Dublin, June, 1869. 
From Killarney to Dublin is 185 miles, we pass through 
parts of Counties Kerry, Cork, lyimerick, Tipperary, Queens, 
Kildare and Dublin. The route is through the heart of Ire- 
land. While the railways are superior, the cars are inferior, 
to those of America, One of our palace cars would be a won- 
der here. In the railwaj^ car no conductor accompanies the 
train ; the passengers are locked in, and at certain stations an 
agent presents himself, requesting a sight of your ticket. 
Sickness or other emergency must be endured until a station 
is reached. Tipperary and Queen's counties look bad to an 
American. The fields are deserted, and the rich meadow lands 
abandoned to sheep grazing. The ditches and mud fences are 
broken, and the once beautiful hedges are ragged and trodden 
down. I noticed the ox-eyed daisy and thistle in great abund- 
ance in the fields, hedges and roadside. The land looks as if 
it had once been well cultivated, but it is certainly not now. 
In vain the traveller looks for a farm-house or barn, instead of 
which he sees but mud hovels and huts, in which a Pennsyl- 
vania farmer would bhish to his cattle. These are the dwell- 
ings of the Irish peasantry. As the train approached the line 
of Queen's County, I observed a farm-house and barn, such 
as are seen all over America. I asked an old man at the station, 
who owned it. He said it had been built about ten years ago 
by an " Irish American.'' " Does he live there yet ?" said I. 
" Oh, no, he sold out and went back to America, four years 
ago." 

Several interesting ruins are passed ; one of the most per- 



KlLLARNEY TO DuBLIN. 



feet old round towers in Ireland stands at Clondankin. It is 
eighty-four feet high. The telegraph poles throughout Ireland 
are not ten feet high ; they look like dwarfs, compared with 
ours. I have not seen an orchard in this part of Ireland. In 
Limerick I saw some middling well-timbered woodlands ; we 
pass hundreds of acres of bog-lands. A bog is not a swamp ; 
the turf is sometimes cut ten feet down, without the interfer- 
ence of water. It burns quite cheerfully, and leaves a white 
ash. The general face of the country is not unlike that along 
the line of the railroad from Marcus Hook to Philadelphia, 
substituting ditches, mud walls, and ragged hedges for fences, 
and dividing the fields into patches of from one to three acres. 
Queen's County looks to me worse than Tipperary ; both have 
enormously decreased in population during the last twenty 
years ; the latter from 153,930 in 1641, to 90,650 in 1851 ; 
County Kildare looks better ; its lands lie well, are mostl}^ 
rich and rolling, and seem pretty well cultivated. It looks 
somewhat like New Castle County, Delaware, without its 
farm-houses and barns, but with better roads and bridges. 
The water-power of Ireland is enormous ; nature could not 
have better distributed its rivers and creeks. As I approached 
Dublin I saw all the modern American implements of farming, 
such as mowing machines, threshing machines, horse -rakes, 
haj^-spreaders, cultivators, etc., etc. 

Dublin is a very interesting and handsome city. It con- 
tains more elegant public buildings, monument, and works 
of art, within a comparatively small compass, than any I have 
yet seen. It has about 250,000 inhabitants, but is decreasing. 
It is beautifully situated on both banks of the river Liffey, 
which is about as wide as the Schuylkill at Market Street. 
The river is walled with dressed stone on both banks at least 
15 feet higher than high water mark. It is spanned by eight 
substantial stone and iron bridges. The shipping comes up to 
Carlisle Street bridge. The King's bridge is the furthest up 
the river, say about two miles from Carlisle bridge. Welling- 
ton, Essex, Richmond, Wintworth, Queen's and Barrack 
bridges intervene at nearly equal distances. A short distance 
below Carlisle bridge the river expands into a noble bay. The 
principal objects of interest in the city are : Nelson's Monu- 
ment, 121 feet high ; the Post Office, Custom House, Rutland 
Square, the Rotundo, Newgate Prison, the scene of Fitzger- 
ald's execution in 1798 ; the King's Inns, the Four Courts, 
the Royal Barracks, Phoenix Park, containing 1750 acres, in 
which stands Wellington's Monument ; the Old Castle, Col 
lege Green, with the statue of William III ; Trinitj' College, 
with its statues of Moore, Burke and Goldsmith ; Marion 
Square, St. Stephen's Square, Exhibition Palace and Winter 



Dublin to Giant's Causeway. 



Garden, Porto Bello Garden, St. Patrick Cathedral, (said to 
stand over the well where the Old Saint baptized his converts) 
and Christ Church. The beggars are not quite as many as at 
Cork and Killarney, but too thick for comfort. Articles oi 
merchandise are about as high as in Philadelphia, and the 
people about as happy. I leave it this afternoon for Belfast 
and the Giant's Causeway. 



IV. 



Dublin to Giant's Causeway — High Rents — Drogheda — 
Cromwell's Cruelty — Boyne Water — Orangemen of 
Ulster — Crosses of Monasterboice — Tomb of King 

MUREDACH — MELLIFONT AbBEY — Ten CoUNTIES AT ONE 

coup d'oeil — Long Days— Belfast- — Familiar Names — 
Philadelphia Ledger Obituary Poetry — ^Jaunting 
Cars --Keep to the Left — Girls Farming— Giant's 
Causeway — Portcoon Cave— Who Built the Cause- 
way ? — Dunluce Castle — Sea Bathing. 

Giant's Causeway, July, 1869. 
From Dublin to this place, via Belfast, is 187 miles. The 
country traversed is most interesting, and contains some re- 
nowned places. The fields are large, well cultivated and green 
with pasture, flax, barley, oats and potatoes. The farmers 
pay a perpetual rent, ranging from one to seven pounds per 
acre. Several manufacturing towns, somewhat resembling 
Upland, are passed. I spent a day at Drogheda, a very old 
town, about 37 miles north of Dublin, situated upon the fam- 
ous river Boyne ; it was once a walled city. A fine specimen 
of the wall, known as St. Lawrence's Gate, still remains. On 
the south side of the river are the remains of St. Mary's Ab- 
bey, founded in the reign of Edward I. Magdalen Steeple is 
a very fine ruin on the north side of the river, and is all that 
remains of the famous church of the Dominican Friars, where 
the Irish chiefs submitted to Richard II. Cromwell sacked 
the town, and indiscriminate!}' slaughtered its inhabitants, 
from the effects of which it has never recovered. The bitter 
memories of the siege are still fresh with the people, and the 
name of the Protector is one of execration ; they tell of little 
babes found, the day after the slaughter, sucking at the dry 
breasts of their murdered mothers. There are a few good 
buildings in the town, but the suburbs are miserable mud 
hovels, one story high, thatched with straw, without floors or 
chimneys, and swarming with wretched creatures in the most 



lo Dublin to Giant's Causeway, 



abject poverty. I saw pretty little, bright-eyed girls, nearly 
naked, in the streets, and smarf little boys begging for a liv- 
ing. The railroad bridge over the Boyne is superior to any I 
have seen in America. It is of solid masonry, and consists of 
fifteen arches of 6 1 -feet span, and a centre arch of 250 feet. 
Large shipping can sail under it. 

About two miles up,, on the north bank of the river, an 
obelisk 150 feet high, marks the spot where William of Orange 
commenced the attack upon his father-in-law, King James II. 
The spot where James stood and surveyed the battle, as well 
as that occupied by William, is pointed out by the guide. 
Some of the entrenchments can still be seen. This is the an- 
niversary of the battle : it was fought July i, i6go, and has 
been annually celebrated ever since by the Orange m.en of 
Ulster. Red and orange -colored flags are now flying from the 
steeples of Episcopal churches between here and Belfast, com- 
memorative of the event and mobs of men and boys may be 
seen flaunting orange-colored flags, and singing insulting sec- 
tional songs by day, and by night congregating around im- 
mense bonfires, and hooting, yelling and screaming around the 
Catholic churches, for the apparent purpose of inciting to riot 
and bloodshed. The Catholic population of this place is 
twelve to one of the Protestant, and they are commendable for 
their good behavior, as they seem determined to avoid a con- 
flict, by looking in silent contempt upon the disgraceful pro- 
ceedings of their Protestant neighbors. 

For twelve shillings a car and driver, who also acts as 
guide, can be hired to conduct the tourist to Monasterboice, 
Slane and Mellifont, making a journey of about twenty-five 
miJes circular from Drogheda. At Monasterboice, in a solitary 
field, stands an old round tower and two chapels in ruins, with 
three elaborately sculptured stone crosses, one of which is 
twenty-seven feet high, and has stood perhaps a thousand 
years in its present position over the grave of some Irish king. 
The tomb of King Muredach, who died A. D. 534, is near the 
round-tower. The name is quite legible in Irish characters 
upon the slab over his grave. The round-tower is no feet 
high, and, like all of its kind, is of pre-historic antiquity. It 
was doubtless an object of traditional reverence when the 
chapels were built, perhaps by St. Patrick, as King Muredach's 
death was only about 100 years after that of the old saint. 

Mellifont Abbey, about three miles west of Monasterboice, 
was built A. D. 1142, by O'Carrol, Prince of Orgiel. It con- 
tained at one time 140 monks. Slane, three miles further, con- 
tains a fine eld ruined abbey, which commands one of the 
finest views in Ireland. It is said that ten counties may be 
seen from its towers. The view is truly fine. 



Dublin to Giant's Causeway. i i 



The time by rail from Drogheda to Belfast is about five 
hours. The days here in Jul)^ are very long ; daylight com- 
mences at 2.30 A. M., and ends a little before 10 o'clock P. M. 
Belfast is a pretty and clean city, but too much like the towns 
of America to require special notice. Signs of industry are 
exhibited everywhere, and consequently beggars are few. I 
was struck with the familiar names on the business signs, and 
on the grave-stones in the burial-grounds, such as Gamble, 
Ward, Wilson, Johnson, Brown, Shaw, Taylor, McCay, and 
other Delaware county names. Perhaps some of the old set- 
tlers of the count}^ came from this place. Judging from the 
obituary poetry on the tomb-stones, the Philadelphia Ledger 
must have found its way here as early as 183 1. I copied some 
of its poetry from an old headstone — 

"With suffering sore, a long time bore, 

Pnysicians was all in vain. 

But deatti him seized 

And God was pleased. 

A happy release from pain." 

There are no omnibuses or street railways in Ireland; short 
journeys are made in jaunting cars. As a rule the sidewalks 
in all the cities are paved with cobble-stones instead of brick. 
I have also observed that the guage of the wheels of the 
vehicles is of a different width, thereby obviating the forma- 
tion of ruts, and keeping the streets and roads level. If the 
traveller were to observe the American rule and keep to the 
right he would be going wro7ig. 

There are no brick in Ireland like those of Philadelphia; 
here they are of a yellow mud color, giving even to new build- 
ings an old appearance. On my journey from Belfast to Port- 
rush at Ballymena, I saw an apple orchard, the first I have 
observed in Ireland. 

Lt is quite common here to see full grown girls spreading 
hay with their hands instead oi forks. Grass and garden 
vegetables grow in abundance to within a few feet of the sea- 
shore, which is verj^ abrupt and rugged, giving indubitable 
evidence by its charred and cracked rocks of plutonic forma- 
tion. From here to the Causew^ay the coast looks as if its 
rocks had been belched up from the infernal regions in a state 
of fusion, and suddenly cooled by contact with the sea. The 
seaweed grows in great abundance upon the rocks, and is 
gathered and burnt by the peasants, who sell the ashes to the 
chemists for the manufacture of potash. 

The coast from Portrush to the Giant's Causeway is cal- 
culated to inspire sentiments of pleasure as well as wonder. 
In entering Portcoon and Dunkerry caves, nothing is w^anted 
but the smell of sulphur to transform them into the portals of 



12 Ireland TO England. 



Pandemonium. I fired my pistol in Portcoon cave, and the 
effect was like the discharge of a battery of artillery. Tra- 
dition says this cave was the home of a hermit giant, who was 
fed by seals from the sea. The Causeway proper cannot be 
described, it must be seen tq be enjoyed. It also has its 
tradition. The peasants tell you, with great earnestness, that 
it was built by Fin M'Coul, the champion of Ireland, to afford 
a passageway to Scotland, that a famous Caledonian giant 
might cross over without wetting his feet, as he had threatened 
that he would come over and whip Fin, were it not for the 
wetting of his feet. After the Causeway was finished he 
crossed over and got wofully thrashed, but with becoming 
Hibernian generosity, Fin allowed his former rival to remain 
in Ireland, and gave him his daughter to wife. As he did not 
desire to return, the Causeway was neglected and broken up 
by the angry sea, what is now seen being all that remains of 
the famous work. 

Dunluce Castle four miles west of the Causeway, is the 
most picturesque ruin in Ireland. It rests on a precipitous 
mass of rock, 150 feet high, boldly facing the ocean. Portrush 
is the Cape May of Dublin and the North. The ladies bathe 
by themselves in linen suits, but the gentlemen go in nude. 
The fair ones do not seem at all shocked, but promenade the 
shore in perfect nonchalance while the gentlemen are bathing. 
At Bangor, which is the watering place for Belfast, the entire 
shore was lined with gentlemen, bathing in all the si7nplicity of 
?iature, and the ladies on the boat did not even turn their 
heads, or "look with downcast eyes." So much for the cus- 
toms of the country. I have now finished my tour in Ireland. 
It is a fair land, its people are kind and hospitable; an Ameri- 
can feels that he is not friendless in Ireland. To-morrow I 
embark for England. 



V. 

From Ireland to England — Eivkrpool — How to Explore 
AN O1.D CiTv — U. S. Bonds — The Sudden Change from 
Paper Monev to Gold — Birkenhead — Chester — The 
Rows AND Roman Walls — Phcenix Tower — An Old 
Monk's Description of Chester — Cathedral Epitaph 
UPON the Tomb of a Dead Son — Horses. 

lylVERPOOL, July, 1869. 
lyiverpool is about half as large as Philadelphia, and lies 
nearly due east from Dublin. The sun rises here about twenty- 



Ireland to England. 13 

five minutes ahead of Ireland, although Paddy is loath to 
admit the possibility of the sun rising anywhere earlier than in 
Ireland. 

By taking ship at 8 P. M. at Dublin. lyiverpool is reached 
at 6 A. M. next day, and by one not subject to vial cle mer, a 
pleasant sleep may be enjoyed upon the bosom of old ocean. 
Iviverpool possesses nothing worthy of especial notice, except 
perhaps its splendid docks and quays, mud colored brick and 
sombre appearaic?. I am becoming accustomed to winding 
streets and begin to rather like them. A little exercise of 
brain, tongue, and eyes, will conduct the intelligent traveller 
through the most irregularly constructed city of Europe. 
They have all been built without any previous plan, but after- 
wards enlarged and beautified, as a native forest would be 
pruned to convert it into a public park. L,ondon was originally 
a fort, and Liverpool a fishing town. The roads converged to 
these points, and new ones were made as the towns grew in 
importance, and as they generally followed the lines of the 
farms and hillsides or the bank of some stream they would, of 
course, be crooked and irregular. As the town grew, the roads 
became the principal streets, and, for convenience of access 
from one lo another, the cross streets were made. This was 
the outline : the streets, lanes, and alleys for private dwellings 
being subsequently filled in. They all have a central point or 
grand trunk street, which can easily be found by observing the 
convergence of the old principal streets into it. By impress- 
ing on the mind the courses of the grand trunk and its princi- 
pal branches, together with their names, and the names and 
localities of the most notorious places, squares, monuments, 
gardens, parks, and public buildings, and by observing the sun 
by day and the polar star at night, the traveller may bid defi- 
ance to guides and cabmen, and without fear walk over every 
city in Europe. 

With the exceptions just noticed, Liverpool looks very 
much like an American city. United States 5-20 bonds and 
greenbacks are plenty here, and can be converted into gold 
without difficulty for their full value, though the better way is 
to procure a draft, or letter of credit before starting abroad. 
All American travellers tell the same story as to the sudden 
change from paper to metallic currency. As soon as the trav- 
eller is assured that he can get gold for his draft, he doesn't 
want it ; he draws a few sovereigns in coin and the balance in 
Bank of England notes, and soon hates the sight of silver, and 
spends the copper to get rid of it. It will be the same in America 
in a week after resumption. The bank notes here are different 
from ours, being about twice as large as a greenback, and printed 
without any engraving, on fine and strong white paper. 



14 Ireland to England. 

Birkenhead occupies the same position to lyiverpool that 
Camden does to Philadelphia. It is about the size of Chester, 
Delaware County. The name of Chester inspired me with a 
desire to see the town from which our Chester derived its name. 
It lies nearly south, and is about an hour distant from Birken- 
head by rail. It is admitted to be one of the most remarkable 
old towns in Kngland, if not in Europe. Before Christ it was 
a considerable town and has preserved its ancient form to a 
wonderful extent to the present day. It has its old gates of 
entrance and exit, and its old Roman walls standing entire. 
They are about three miles long, and afford a delightful prom- 
enade, and splendid views around the town. The public 
square outside of the walls is full of Roman antiquities, con- 
stantl}^ being exhumed. In 1821, a fine and well-preserved 
Roman altar was dug up bearing the following inscription : — 

NYMPHIS ET FONTIBUS 

IvEG. XX. V. V. 

which in English would read, "To the Nymphs and Foun- 
tains, the 20th L,egion, the invincible and victorious" (dedicate 
this altar). As I walked around the wall I observed a mould- 
ering old turret, known as Phoenix Tower. The inscription 
over its ruined portal tells the rest. Here it is : — 

" King Charles 

Stood O'l this Tower 

S^epteraber 24th, 1(545, and saw 

His army defeated 

On Rowton Moor." 

The streets are most singularly constructed. The side- 
walk or foot-path, apparently runs through the middle of the 
houses ; below are shops on the level with the street, above 
are chambers, and on each side stores. Ramulph Higden, a 
monk of Chester Abbey, whose chronicles were published A. 
D. 1495, gives the following description of the town: "The 
City of lyCgions, that is Chester, in time of Britons was head 
and chief city of all Venedocia, that is North Wales. There 
lay a winter the legions of Julius Caesar sent for to win Ireland. 
And after Claudius Caesar sent legions out of the city to win 
the islands that he called Orcades. This city hath plenty of 
live land, of corn, of flesh, and specially of salmon. This city 
receiveth great merchandise and sendeth out also. North - 
umbers destroyed this city sometime, but Elfleda, I^ady of 
Mercia, builded it again, and made it much more. In this city 
had been ways under earth with vaults and stone work, won- 
derfully wrought, three chambered works, great stones engraved 
with old names therein. This is that city that Ethelfrede, 
King of Northumberland, destroyed, , and slew there fast by 



Ireland TO England. 15 

nigh two thousand monks. This is the city that King Edgar 
came to sometime with seven kings that were subject to him." 
The old Cathedral of St. Werbug, built upon the site of 
a Pagan temple to Apollo, which it is said itself supplanted a 
still older fane of the Druids, stands so near the city wall that 
the tmcouth rhymes on the tombstones may be read without 
descending. This ground was a place of sepulture before the 
Christian era. Among the quaint old verses and epitaphs I 
read one which touched a tender cord. Here it is : — 

"Thou art gone, sweet boy, to death's dark shade. 

To never— never fading bliss ; 
We could have wished thou'dst longer staid 

Tosha -e wit'i a> tliy oniilia ? kiss. 
But God was pleased to call thee hence * 

And save thee from this life of care ; 
He called thee while in innocence 

His mercies better gifts to share. 
Remember how I danced and sung, 

And clasped thee in my fond embrace, 
Delighted with thy prattling tongue. 

Thy sparkling eye— and lovely face. 
Thou should'st have closed thy father's eyes. 

And laid him in his native clay; 
But gone before me to the skies, 

I pray thoul't meet me on the way." 

The face of the country between lyiverpool and Chester 
"wears very much the same appearance as some parts of Dela- 
ware. It is undulating rather than hilly, and is better culti- 
vated than the land in Ireland. The farm-houses are not equal 
to those of Pennsylvania, and the barns few and poor. The 
horses, however, are the finest for heavy work I have ever 
seen. I saw draught horses in lyiverpool almost as large and 
strong as elephants. I think the Knglish iron plough is 
superior to any American one. I wonder it has not been 
adopted by our Pennsylvania farmers, as it would suit the soil, 
is very strong and steady, and yet of easy draught, and can be 
managed with one hand in the stiflFest sod. 



1 6 Liverpool to London. 



VI. 



I^ivERPOOL TO London — Good Railroad Time — Entering 
London under Ground — English Farming — Objects of 
Interest — Three Landmarks of London — Museum — 
Deed Four Thousand Years Old — Gallery of Paint- 
ings — London Bridge — Pudding Lane — Bigotry of the 
Olden Time — Westminster Abbey, St. Paul's and the 
Tower — A Queen's Epitaph — O Rare Ben Johnson — 
Lady Ann of Cleve — The Murdered Princes. 

London, July 1869. 
From Liverpool to London by rail is about 200 miles, the 
route is through the bowels of the land, for vv^hich reason the 
journey should be made by day ; but the anxiety to reach the 
metropolis often induces many travellers to journey by night, 
a practice to be condemned. One of the objects of travelling 
should be to see the general face of the country, and to ob- 
serve, by comparison, its distinctive geographic features, as 
well as its style of cultivation and improvement. The speed 
attained upon this line is very great, averaging fiftj^ miles an 
hour. The locomotive enters the centre of the city of London, 
but not on any of the streets ; the entrance was effected at 
enormous expense, by tunnelling and bridging. The passing 
train can be sometimes heard, but never seen. My impressions 
of the high state of English agriculture have not been realized; 
I have seen nothing superior to the well cultivated farms of 
our own State. Britain depends more on her traffic than her 
soil for her prosperity. Her merchants are trul}^ princes, and 
her traffickers the honorable of the earth. If Paris is France, 
so London is England. To say it is a great city would be a 
tame expression ; it is an immense, and in man 3^ respects, a 
wonderful place. Its enormous docks, royal palaces, renowned 
antiquities, old abbeys, cathedrals, monuments, parks, and 
places of amusement, together with its mongrel population of 
3,500,000 souls, of all classes and characters, from beggars, 
burglars and professional thieves, up to its peers, princes and 
royal heads, dwelling in habitations as distinctive as its classes, 
from the Royal Palace, resplendent with dazzling brilliancy 
and gorgeous light, down to the pestiferous haunts and noxious 
dens, where the light of the sun is never seen, all contribute 
to our wonder, or, if nothing more, furnish food for our serious 
reflection. London contains many objects of interest which 
no visitor should fail to see, among which are the British 
Museum, the National Gallery, the Zoological Gardens, the 
Crystal Palace, the Parliament Houses, Westminster Abbey, 



Liverpool to London, 17 

•» 

the Tower and St. Paul's Cathedral. The Museum contains 
specimens of antiquity, art, sciences and curiosity, so system- 
atically arranged as to at once commend themselves to the in- 
telligent mind. Fossils can there be seen ranging from the 
earliest developments of animal life, and regularly progressing 
through millions of ages up to the last and highest type, that of 
a human skeleton imbedded in a hard rock of solid limestone. 
Kvery known metal and mineral, salt or rock, is there rep- 
resented. So in botany, zoology and geology. In the depart- 
ment of antiquities may be found the footprints of every step 
in human progress. Those from Nineveh, Babylon and Egypt, 
are the most interesting and confirmatory of the Holy Script- 
ures. The library contains either the original or a fac -simile 
of every known book or manuscript. I saw there a deed on 
papyrus in a plain, bold hand. It was exhumed with a 
mummy, and purported to convey a lot of ground in Memphis. 
It was at least four thousand years old, but in form it was 
identical with the deeds of the present day. The translation, 
with very little alteration, would pass for the work of a Chester 
conveyancer for a lot of ground in the South Ward, for I ob- 
served it had been sold subject to a ^nortgage. The student of 
universal knowledge could learn more in a month, in the 
British Museum, of practical education, than could be acquired 
in years of theoretical research. In the National Gallery at 
Trafalgar Square, are some of the rarest and best paintings in 
the world. Paul Veronese's Family of Darius, is considered 
among the best ; it cost ^14,000. A fine opportunity is af- 
forded of comparing the works of modern masters with those 
of the ancient school. I observed a work of Raphael, and an 
unfinished piece by Michael Angelo, as bright and fresh as 
when they received the last touch of the brush, while some 
works of comparatively recent date, although equally beautiful 
in outline, were manifestly deficient in color, being dim and 
faded. As I journeyed toward the Tower, I paused a moment 
at I/Ondon Bridge, and stood where Macaulay says the future 
traveller from New Zealand will stand upon its broken arch 
and sketch the ruins of St. Paul's. 

Near the bridge stands the Monument, from the top of 
which an excellent view of London is had. It is 202 feet high, 
and stands just that distance from the spot in Pudding Lane, 
where the great fire of 1666 began. It was erected by Sir 
Christopher Wren. It bore an inscription which was erased in 
1829, and which conveys a good idea of the bigotry of the age. 
It read as follows : ' ' This pillar was set up to perpetuate the 
memory of the most dreadful burning of this ancient city, 
began and carried on hy the treachery and malice of the 
Popish faction, in the beginning of September, A. D. 1666, in 



i8 Liverpool to London: 



order to thi^ carrying on o'; their horrid plot for extirpating the 
Protestant religion and old English Liberty, and introducing" 
Popery and Slavery." 

All we know of our fathers is taught by the monuments 
they have left behind them. Man is naturally vain and in- 
clined to imagine the age in which he lives the most perfect 
the world has evei known, but, after looking upon the ruins of 
time and glancing at the remains of ancient greatness^ 'we afe 
bewildered and amazsd in the mere attempt to comprehend 
the glory of the olden time. 

The art of war was perfect 4000 years ago ; all we know 
of music and the fine arts are but poor imitations of ancient 
models. Our best_ efforts at architecture are btit copies of 
Grecian Temples. 

London was a city before the birth of Christianity. In 
its growth it has absorbed all the surrounding villages and 
towns wi-thin a radius of twent}'- miles. , The fire of 1666 
destroyed 13,200 houses— 400 streets were laid waste. The 
rebuilding of the city shows a peculiar trait of English char- 
acter. They never change anything once deliberately adopted. 
The Padding Lane, where the fire began is "Pudding Lane", 
still. The great architect, Sir Christopher Wren, urged the 
authorities to lay out the city on a new and greatly improved 
plan suggested by his experience, but with the disposition to do" 
as their fathers had done, and that they might not infringe on 
private rights, they resolved to rebuild the city just as it was 
before the fire, with all its old bends, crooks, twists, hills, hol- 
lows and irregularities. Recent excavations however have 
demonstrated that the present city, in the older portions, is at 
least sixteen feet higher than it was in the days of Roman 
occupation. Old Roman roads, baths and foundations are 
constantly being exhumed below the bottom of the cellars of 
the present city. 

London covers an area of about eighty square miles of 
solid buildings. Its three distinctive landmarks are West- 
minster Abbey, St. Paul's Cathedral and the Tower. The 
tombs and monuments of the old abbey are the marble records 
of English history. "They harmonize its confusion and shed 
light upon its darkest pages." The present structure escaped 
the great fire. It was commenced by Edward the Conqueror 
upon the site of a ruined monastery. Its ground plan is that 
of a Latin cross. Its length including the chapel of Henry 
VII. is 530 feet ; its breadth at the transept is 203 feet. The 
towers are 225 feet high. William the Conqueror was crowned 
here with great pomp in A. D. 1065. The chapel of Henry VII. 
was added during the reign of that prince. To see the abbey 
under the most favorable conditions it should be entered by 



Liverpool to London. 19 



the western door. When the eye surveys, and the mind for 
the first time comprehends its vast proportions, the sensation 
is one of wonder and surprise. The nave, the side aisles, the 
mass of marble columns and monuments, the organ and the 
grand eastern arch, beautified by the soft and tinted shades of 
the decorated windows, present a scene of indescribable beauty. 

Every inch of space on the side walls and niches has been 
utilized by a profusion of memorials of the dead, some in 
good, others in very bad taste. Above the line of the tombs 
are dreary and solemn looking little chambers, once the dwell- 
ing places of the monks. The nine adjoining chapels have 
been constructed so as to give them the appearance of being a 
part of the same edifice. 

The chapels contain the tombs, effigies and ashes of Eng- 
land's mightiest dead. Sebert, who died A. D. 616, was the 
first and George II. the last king here interred. It has been 
a ro3^al burial place for over twelve hundred years. Among 
the many royal tombs I particularly noticed that of Eleanor, 
the beautiful Queen of Edward I. While in Palestine the 
Saracens emplo^^ed an assassin to murder Edward with a 
poisoned dagger. In his struggle he received a wound in the 
arm. Eleanor sucked the poison from the wound and saved 
his life. She was the mother of the first Prince of Wales. 
She died at Harby in 1291, Edward followed her body to 
Westminster and to commemorate her worth and his grief he 
set up a cross at every place where the funeral procession had 
stopped, the last place being at the village of Charring, which 
has ever since been known as Charring Cross. It is now in 
the heart of London. 

The traveler will also notice the tombs of Mar}' Queen of 
Scots, the little princes murdered by Richard III., the eflfig)" 
of Henry VII, and the royal vault of George II. One of the 
most interesting tombs contains the remains of Lady Margaret 
Douglass, daughter of Queen Margaret of Scotland. It rep- 
resents a beautiful lady reposing upon a finely chiseled altar. 
The inscription says: "This lady's great-grandfather was 
Henry VIL ; her cousin Edward VI. ; her brother James V. 
of Scotland ; her son Henry I. of Scotland ; her grandson 
James V, ; having to her great-grandmother and grandmother 
two queens, both named Elizabeth ; to her mother Margaret 
Queen of Scots ; her aunt the French Queen ; her cousins Mary 
and Elizabeth, Queens of England ; her neice and daughter- 
in-law Mary Queen of Scots." This would seem to an 
American to be royalty enough concentrated in one body to 
satisfy even a woman. She was said to have been very beau- 
tiful. Her first husband, Sir Thomas Howard, died in prison ; 
liis onl}^ crime was his marriage without the assent of Henry 



20 Liverpool to London. 



VIII. She afterwards married the Earl of I^enox, by whom 
she had Lord Darnh", the second husband of Mary Queen of 
Scots and father of James I. of England. Near her tomb is 
that of her most unfortunate daughter-in-law, Mary Queen of 
Scots ; she was remarkable for her rare beauty and doubtful 
virtue. Her first husband was the Dauphin of France ; her 
third was Bothwell, a rough soldier. After seventeen long 
years of imprisonment she was beheaded by order of her 
cousin, Queen Elizabeth. And so we might continue for days, 
reading the inscriptions and commenting upon and reviewing 
the lives of those here interred. 

A favorite resort is the Poets' Corner. Near the tombs of 
Addison and Lord Macaulay we observe a marble slab set in 
the wall. Its inscription contains but four words — " O Rare 
Ben Johnson." The effect of a stroll among these tombs is to 
engender a desire to know something of the lives of the ones 
in whose honor they have been erected. We naturally look up 
their biography and by an association of ideas we never forget 
what we thus learn. I would, perhaps, never have known of 
the early struggles of the grand old poet if I had not been 
struck with the quaintness of his epitaph. Ben Johnson's 
father recognized his son's talent and took great pride in his 
education, but when he died Ben lost his best friend. His 
mother married a bricklayer who thought it a waste of time 
to study Latin in the school where Ben's father had placed 
him, so he took him from school and set him to laying bricks. 
At the building of Lincoln's Inn his subsequent benefactor 
found him with Horace in one hand and a trowel in the other. 
Near his memorial may be seen a small portion of the tomb 
of Lady Ann of Cleve. She was married to Henry VIII and 
was received by him with great pomp on Black Heath, Jan- 
uary 3, 1539. In the following July he divorced her. His 
only ground for divorce was that ' ' she was too Dutch for 
him." Touched at this insult she, with great dignity, retired 
to private life under the new name of " Lady Ann of Cleve." 
She lived to see her rival beheaded for infidelity to the King. 
Near by repose the ashes of the still more unfortunate Queen 
Annie. Richard III. after murdering her husband, and mar- 
rying her, conceived a passion for Elizabeth, sister to the little 
princes he had murdered in the Tower. To make room for 
his marriage with Elizabeth he poisoned Annie, but he did 
not live to capture Elizabeth, having been slain by the Earl 
of Richmond, afterwards Henry VIL Richard was a cun- 
ning, brave and blood-thirsty brute. 

"Not shaped for sportive tricks 
Nor made to court an amorous looliiug glass ; 
Clieated of feature by dissembling nature, 
Deformed, unfinished, sent before his time 



Sights in London, 21- 

Into this breathing world, sjarce half made up, 

And that so lamely and unfasliionable 

That dog-s barked at him as he halted by tliem." 

In the days of pious frauds, the monks of Westminster 
Abbey invented and circulated the legend that St. Peter, in 
person, assisted by holy angels and amid a glorious display of 
heavenly light, dedicated the abbey the night before the day 
appointed by King Sebert for that ceremony. 

Westminster Abbey is undoubtedly the first landmark of 
lyOndon. In my next letter I will try to say something about 
St. Paul's. 



VII. 



St. Paul's — Sir Christopher Wren's Monument — Tombs 
IN THE Crypt — Wellington's Funeral Car — Benjamin 
West — View from the Ball — Great Bell — Travel on 
L/ONDON Bridge — The Tower — Arms and Armor — 
Colt's Revolver Four Hundred Years Old — Axe and 
Block — Koh-i-Noor for Sixpence — Traitor's Gate — 

Anne Boleyn Philadelphia in Canada Alabama 

Claims — English Jealousy of America. 

London, July, 1869. 
Passing down Whitehall Street, the Strand, Fleet and 
Ludgate Streets, about two miles nearly due east from West- 
minster Abbey, we arrive at the next landmark, the magnifi- 
cent Cathedral of St. Paul, one of the largest churches in the 
world and with capacity to hold twenty thousand persons. It 
is the most prominent object in London. The lofty dome can 
be seen for many miles. The cathedral stands in the centre 
of an enclosed churchyard at the head of Ludgate Hill. 

A church existed here four hundred years before the Nor- 
man conquest. The present edifice was erected upon the site 
of the one that was destroyed by the great fire. Its architect 
was Sir Christopher Wren. It was thirty-five years being 
built and he lived to see it finished. Over the north door, in 
letters of gold, may be seen the following inscription : — 

" Sir Christopher Wren — Si monumentum quaeris, cir- 
cumspice ! ' ' 

A free translation of this inscription is a request to the 
beholder, if he is endeavoring to find Wren's monument, to 
look around him. In other words, the whole cathedral is his 
monument. 



22 Sights in London. 



This church is also built upon a ground plan of a Latin 
cross five hundred and fourteen leet long by two hundred and 
sixty-six feet wide. From the pavement to the dome is three 
hundred and sixty -five feet, a foot for each day in the year. It 
covers two acres and sixteen perches of ground and cost $3,700,- 
000 in gold at a time when the purchasing value of a sovereign 
was twice as great as it now is. It occupies the site of a Druid 
Temple, remains of which were found when digging for the 
foundations of the church. The first christian church of St. 
Paul was commenced by King Ethelbert, A. D, 610. King 
Athalstan was buried in it and his son Kdmond Ironsides was 
crowned in it. Canut had his palace hard by ; his courtyard 
extended to the river. It was there he rebuked his courtiers 
by commanding the tide to rise no higher. During the civil 
wars the church was converted into a stable. The soldiers 
amused themselves by playing ten pins on the long level aisles. 

The interior of the present edifice is decorated by fifty 
elaborate marble monuments in commemoration of England's 
great men. Upon entering the building the first impression is 
that the interior is unfinished. The building is so immense 
that the fifty marble monuments are not a sufficient relief to 
the apparently naked walls. 

In the crypt are the tombs of Wellington, Nelson, Wren 
and others. On entering the chamber containing the Sarcoph- 
agus of the Duke of Wellington, the effect is somewhat start- 
ling. There stands the colossal funeral car which carried his 
remains to their present resting place. The six great wheels 
are of solid brass, cast from the cannon he captured in Spain, 
Three enormous horses, all harnessed and equipped, draped in 
black velvet, seemed only to await the driver's word to start. 
It stands under the dome, a dim light giving to the whole 
chamber a solemn and sombre appearance. In emerging from 
the vault I saw the name of Benjamin West, cut upon a slab 
of marble. His remains repose beneath it. He was born in 
Delaware County at Swarthmore, and was deemed worthy of a 
burial place with the hero of Waterloo. For a small fee, trav- 
elers may climb from the crypt to the ball that surmounts the 
dome. The view from the balcony on a clear day (hard to find 
in London) comprends the whole city, the tortuous Thames 
and surrounding country. The great bell weighs four and a 
half tons and is ten feet in diameter. The hours are struck, 
but it is only tolled when one of the Royal family dies. Its 
solemn tone in the quiet evening sweeps over the metropolis 
and is often heard far into the suburbs. 

As we journey east from the Cathedral we ma}^ pause 
awhile at London Bridge. It is the first bridge coming up the 
river. Most of the ships anchor, or go into the docks below. 



Sights in London. 23 

The travel over it is enormous. From early dajdight till far 
into night the bridge is crowded. Two great lines of vehicles 
and foot travellers may be seen, one coming, the other going 
from lyondon to Southwark. A penny toll for each person and 
six pence for each wagon, would yield a revenue of one thous- 
and dollars a day. 

About a mile further down the river stands the Tower of 
LrOndon, one of its most ancient landmarks. Within its walls 
some of the gayest and many of the saddest scenes of English 
history have transpired. It was founded b}^ Julius Caesar and 
was the nucleus of the old city. It contains specimens of all 
known arms, from the war club to the Needle gun. It was 
from a revolver 400 years old that Col. Colt got the idea of his 
pistol . The old Warder told me that he saw Colt closely 
examining the pistol. He then got an order from the Consta- 
ble of the Tower and went with it into an adjoining room' 
where he took it apart and made careful drawings of its several 
parts. About two years afterwards Colt produced and patented 
his pistol. The quantit}^ of arms and their fantastical arrange- 
ments, forming centre pieces, flowers, imitations of the sun, 
cornices, railing fountains, etc., has a confusing and somewhat 
bewildering effect upon the mind. Besides its museum of 
ancient arms and armor, it contains 300,000 stand of the most 
approved weapons always ready for use.' 

The horse armory contains the life-sized models of the 
mounted Kings of England from Edward I. to James II. 
They are clad in the actual armor they bore in life. The 
lances, coats of mail, saddles, shields and other accoutrements 
of the old warriors, clearly conve}^ to the mind the contrast 
between the battle of Hastings and the bloody field of Waterloo. 

Among other curiosities in the Tower, I saw the block, 
and felt the edge of the axe, used to decapitate prisoners of 
state. Anne Boleyn, Tady Jane Gray, Jier husband I^ord 
Dudley and many other unfortunate players in the bloody 
game of "Crowns," have laid their naked necks upon this 
terrible block. It is of oak, but the blood of its victims has 
stained it to the color of mahogany. The marks of the axe 
upon it are very distinct and suggestive of the many tragic 
scenes in which the old piece of wood has played a prominent 
part. 

For an extra six pence, they show the visitors the crown 
jewels including the famous koh-i-noor diamond — (I afterwards 
learned the supposed diamond was an imitation.) 

The walls of the Tower enclose about thirteen acres of 
ground. The moat has a circumference of about half a mile. 
There are twelve towers around the walls ; the center building 
is called the White Tower. Every lover of ancient history must 



24 Sights in London, 

be interested in this hoary relic of a by-gone age. William, 
the Norman, dwelt in it as a place of safe retreat where he 
could seek shelter and at the same time awe his rebellious 
subjects. 

A simple list of the renowned prisoners, who, during the 
past thousand years have pined away within these walls, would 
fill a good sized book. 

The entry from the river is through the ' ' Traitor's Gate. ' ' 
It is a gloomy, low arched passage with a heavy iron port- 
cullis and drawbridge. The great, the beautiful, even the 
Royal have passed beneath this ominous portal to exchange 
dreams of glory for the fatal block. Illustrious captives have 
sighed out a lifetime in the dungeons of the tower. In one 
of these chambers the Duke of Clarence had his dreadful 
dream the night before he was drowned in a but of port wine 
by order of his villainous brother, the Duke of Gloster. I read 
it, as so graphically repeated in Shakespeare's play of Richard 
III. At the foot of the staircase of the White Tower, years 
after the murder, the bone? of the little princes of Edward IV. 
were found and were buried, as before stated, in Westminster 
Abbey. 

In 1487, the beautiful Elizabeth of York, sister of the 
murdered princes, married Henry VII. in the tower. Henry 
had avenged the murder of her father and brothers by slaying" 
Richard in the battle of Bosworth Field, As to the victor 
belong the spoils, Henry married Elizabeth. If Richard had 
been successful, he would have married her. All England 
rejoiced at her restoration, if not upon, at least by the side of 
her father's throne. Sixteen years afterwards she was buried 
from the tower. The procession passed to Westminster Abbey 
where her remains still repose. She was the grandmother of 
Lady Margaret Douglass, the inscription upon whose tomb I 
have already given. 

On the 29th of May, 1533, the fair Lady Anne Boleyn 
was received at the Tower by Henry VIII. with great pomp 
and amid a melody of trumpets and a mighty peal of guns. 
" Beauty and sprightliness sat upon her lips, and in readiness 
of wit she was unsurpassed." Three years after, while din- 
ing with her gay friends, she was arrested by order of the King 
and again entered the tower, the place of her former triumphs. 
She inhabited the same royal apartments, but never saw the 
King again. She was tried for unfaithfulness to Henry, was 
convicted and on the 19th of May, less than three years from 
her coronation, she laid her neck upon the block already men- 
tioned and her head was struck ojfF at a single stroke of the 
axe whose edge I have just felt and find it sharp and keen, 
ready for a thousand more. Her mutilated body was thrust 



Sights in London. 25 

into an old chest and no one to this daj^ 'knows where it was 
buried. Catherine of Arragon was avenged ! 

The last King crowned in the tower was Charles II. 
Since then its glory has departed. Before leaving England I 
must do her the justice to say that in many things we might 
improve by her experience. She encourages braver}^ in her 
soldiers, she fosters the arts, patronizes the learned and rewards 
those who serve her. The government of her metropolis is 
dignified and economical. She holds private rights more 
sacred than we do and seems to have more reverence for time- 
honored customs. But, while the majority of her people are 
well informed, man^^ are lamentably ignorant of everything 
outside of England. I met a Member of Parliament at Graves 
End who thought Philadelphia was in Canada and that Cali- 
fornia was a city on the Pacific Railroad. When I informed 
him that Philadelphia was one-fourth as large as lyondon and 
only about 100 miles West of New York, he gave me an in- 
credulous look and remarked that he did not know it was so 
far out West. He wound up by asking if there were an}^ 
buffalo around Philadelphia. I told him there were bulls 
and dea7^s in Third Street, but if he wanted to hunt buffalo he 
would have to go to Lake Erie, where he would find them so 
plentiful that they had named the city of Buffalo after them. 

We must not, however, charge a nation with the faults or 
follies of an individual. They do not deny their sympathy 
with the South during our rebellion, and candidly admit that 
it was because they thought we were growing great too fast. 
All their professions, however, of love for the "Great Repub- 
lic," as they now call our country, are false and hollow; they 
are evidently a little jealous of our growing strength. They 
are very uneasy about the Alabama controversy, and exhibit 
great anxiet}^ for its settlement ; yet not a man can be found 
in favor of the payment of the damages. At the theatre a few 
evenings since, I heard a popular actor sing a song evidenth' 
made for the occasion, as it touched all topics of local excite- 
ment, such as the Irish church bill. Life Peerage, &c. The 
chorus to each verse, as nearly as I can remember it, ran thus: 

" But all is yet uncertain. 
I have no cause to doubt it. 
It may be yes. It may be no. 
That's all I know about it." 

The whole song was coolly received until the last verse wsls 
reached, which ran as follows: 

" Now in the Alabama case 

The Yankees want their bill. 
But will they get it? Not for Joe I 
1 do not think they will. 



26 London to Carlisle. 



It won't be yes. It will be no, 
1 have no cause to doubt it. 

It shan't be yes. It shall be no. 
That's what I know about it."' 



This verse was received with prolonged shouts of ap- 
plause, encored two or three times. 

As a people the English are undoubtedly brave and intel- 
ligent. They are slow to enter a quarrel. They count the 
cost and are reluctant to embark in doubtful wars, but he 
reads English character amiss who attributes this reluctance 
to cowardice. They often bluster to their equals and bully 
their inferiors, but history is too replete with their great and 
obstinate struggles to leave a doubt as to their courage. lyCt 
us also remember, when we cast calumny on the British name^ 
we foul the nest in which our own eagle was hatched. While 
yielding nothing that is our due, let us accord to England all 
that is her right, that the peaceful relations now existing may 
never by any fault of oiurs be disrupted- "With all her faults 
we love her still." 



VIII. 



EoNDON TO Carlisle; — -How to see London — English 
AND American Pronunciation — Crystal Palace — 
Doctors and Lawvers^Carlisle — Wind Mills — Marys 
Prison — A Giant's Grave — King Arthur's Round 
Table — Long Meg and Her Daughters. 

Carlisle, England, July, 1869. 
From the smoke and fog of London, on my way to Scot- 
land, I tarried here for a day. I have experienced no diffi- 
culty in finding any desired place in London. To thoroughly 
know the city it is necessary to walk over it, avoiding hack- 
ney coaches as much as possible. The locality of a place, like 
a geometrical problem, is never forgo tton when discovered by 
unassisted effort. By the assistance of a map, any desired 
number of walks may be arranged, and although the streets 
are almost innumerable, and never more than a few squares 
long, by sketching the principal ones and noting the promi- 
nent squares and public buildings, it is not difficult to com- 
prehend the whole city. The names of the streets are never 
changed; those familiar to the readers of ancient literature may 
still be found just where they were in the days of Shakespeare 
The citizens have adopted a very simple rule by which any 
spot referred to is mentally located. They associate it with 



London to Carlisle. 27 



the most prominent object in the vicinity, thus : Ask for 
Drury Lane Theatre, the answer will be "Covent Garden," a 
famous fruit and vegetable market. I had occasion en my 
first arrival to ask for the post-office ; the answer was: "St. 
Martin le Grand, St. Paul's," meaning it was upon the street 
known as St. Martin le Grand, which street was near St-, 
Paul's Cathedral: It is advisable, of course, to so arrange th€ 
daily walks as not to duplicate any previous route — invariably 
pronounced here "root." I observe some difference between 
English and American pronunciation. In proper nouns they 
almost invariably here pronounce the letter "a" as it is sound- 
ed in the word "father." The words "either" and "neither," 
they pronounce as if written "iiher and ''nither,"" gWvsxg the 
"i" its first long sound as in "ice." Their orthography also 
in some respects differs from ours. They spell cider, cyder, 
jail £-ao/, labor, labozir. They call baggage, /?^^^^^i?, panta- 
loons they call trowsers, The \^or6. farmer here has a mean- 
ing entirel}^ different from the same word in America. It 
means a renter. I noticed in some of the advertisements re- 
lating to the Crystal Palace, the word was spelled Chrystal. 

The Crystal Palace has lost but little of its original in- 
terest, and although some ten or twelve miles from the city, it 
is visited by from three to ten thousand persons daily. The 
great and commendable effort of its managers seems to be, to 
make it as highly educational as possible. The building is 
enormous, yet graceful. It is nearly one- third of a mile in 
length, and over three hundred feet in width, and so high that 
forest trees could grow under its roof. It contains facsimiles 
of almost all the architecture and sculpture of successive ages, 
including one of the exhumed palaces of Pompeii. I saw 
here a cast of one of the great crosses at Monasterboice. It 
was so perfect that, until informed to the contrary, I was sure 
it was the original which I had seen less than a month ago, 
standing near Drogheda, in Ireland. The grounds contain 
over two hundred acres, and are laid out in delightful gar- 
dens, groves, lakes and cascades, relieved by life-sized repre- 
sentations of all the extinct antediluvian animals and reptiles, 
from the mastodon down to a lizard thirty-five feet long. 
Some of them appear to be browsing upon the reeds and rushes 
in which they stand, others just crawling from the water ; 
some are sleeping upon the rocks, and yet others half hid in 
the mud. It would be a very hard day's work to give even a 
cursory look at all that is here exhibited. In emerging from 
a small wood, skirting a twenty-acre lake, I came upon one 
of the best artificial geological studies in the world. It covers 
several acres, and displays nearly all the rocks forming the 
earth's crust, from the old red sandstone up to the latest 



28 London to Carlisle. 

tertiary beds, including veins of coal and fossil remains. A 
little further up the hill is a jac-simile of a Derbyshire lead 
mine. I also noticed in the South Kensington Museum the 
same highly educational arrangement of industrial production, 
showing at a glance all the diiterent processes of the manufac- 
ture of various articles, from a farthing's worth of iron ore 
through all its processes until it is worth ^looo in watch 
sprmgs. I particularly noticed at the latter place an exhibi- 
tion of the chemical analysis of every known article of food 
and drink, from tea up to whisky, and from an oyster up to 
roast beef. The elementary matter was so arranged as to 
show, by comparison, the quantities of each kind. The 
water, gelatin, fibrin, albumen, fat, and earthy matter con- 
tained in each kind of fish, flesh and fowl, were clearly shown, 
as also the water, alcohol, sugar, citric, malic, and tartaric 
acids, and fusel oils in the various wines and liquors used as 
beverages. 

The division of labor is carried to excess in London, and 
has been applied to the professions of law and medicine to a 
ridiculous extent. The physicians make certain diseases 
specialties ; the result is that each disease has its doctor,' and 
if the patient does not know his disease he cannot choose a 
physician, and may therefore die before he knows what ails 
him. Divisions in the legal profession are still worse. It has 
its attorneys, barristers, solicitors, proctors, counsellors of the 
inner and outer bar, special pleaders and sergeants. The 
poor client often requires the services of the whole batch, 
in which event Heaven help his purse. In America the entire 
duty is performed by one lawyer. 

Carlisle, where I now rest, is about three hundred miles 
north of London, and one hundred miles from Edinburgh, 
which lies due north from here. The country is very beauti- 
ful, but no more so than some American rural scenery. There 
are no barns, no forests, and no fields of Indian corn, so 
charming to an American eye. Although the water power of 
the country is good, I observed old fashioned wind-mills, such 
as Don Quixote made war upon, on many of the hills ; and I 
saw on my journey, several men threshing wheat in the open 
field with old-fashioned flails. Carlisle is about the size of 
Wilmington, Delaware. It is a very old town, having been 
at one time a Roman station. The castle, now in ruins, was 
built by William Rufus. Robert Bruce besieged it, but un- 
successfully. After the union of the Scotch and English 
crowns, the city sank into decay, but now appears to be flour- 
ishing again. The lofty and massive tower of the castle still 
remains. It contains a very deep well, and excites more than 
ordinary interest, as the place where Mary, Queen of Scots, 



Carlisle to Edinburgh. 29 



was imprisoned on her flight to England. Seventeen miles 
south of here, we passed through the old town of Penrith ; it 
is about the size of Chester, Delaware County. It was laid 
waste by an army of 30,000 Scots, in the reign of Edward III. 
Its castle, which is now in ruins close to the line of the road, 
was dismantled by the adherents of Cromwell. A subterra- 
nean passage leads from the castle to Dockray Hall, which is 
three hundred yards distant. The grave of a Caledonian 
giant, who must have been a rival of Goliath of Gath, is 
pointed out in the churchyard. The head and foot-stones, 
covered with unintelligible Runic characters, stand fifteen 
feet apart. Two miles distant is what tradition declares to be 
his cave. It shows evident marks of having been inhabited, 
having traces of a window, doorway, and grate. It is very 
difficult of access. A short distance from the town is another 
curious relic of the olden time, consisting of the remains of a 
Druidical place of judicature, called "King Arthur's Round 
Table." About six miles from the town are the remains of a 
Druid temple, consisting of a circle of upright stones, ten feet 
high, with a large altar stone in the centre. The circle is 350 
feet in circumference. It is undoubtedly one of the oldest 
relics of antiquity in England. It is called, here, "Dong 
Meg and her daughters." 

I find some very ignorant people about here, who barely 
know that there is such a place as America, but whether it is 
an island or continent, or situated in Asia or Africa, they 
cannot tell. Methinks Dickens might have found subjects 
enough for his sarcasm without leaving his own country. 



IX. 

Carlisle to Edinburgh — The Castle — Colton Kill- 
Arthur's Seat Holyrood — Mary's Chamber Ric- 

cio's Blood Hawthornden — Roslin Castle. 

Edinburgh, July, 1869. 
This is modern Athens, and the handsomest city I have 
3'et seen. It is built of dressed stone upon the sides and sum- 
mits of precipitous hills, almost approaching the dignity of 
mountains. Some of the houses are ten stories high, fronting 
on the lower street, and only three stories on the upper one. 
They rise one above the other in tiers, and when lit up at night 
b}' gas present a very brilliant appearance. There are two 
great dales running east and west through the entire city, laid 



30 Carlisle to Edinburgh, 

out in delightful gardens, ornamented by fountains, monu- 
ments and statuary. The ranges of hills are united by water- 
less bridges, from the battlements of which we can look 
down into the tallest chimneys. Castle Hill is 383 feet 
high ; on its summit stands the ancient castle of Edin- 
burgh, pronounced here Edinburro. It presents an appear- 
ance strikingly unique. It was the nucleus around which 
the city arose. From its ramparts the view is magnificent. 
The whole city and surrounding country' seem to lay at the 
beholder's feet. Much historical interest attaches to the old 
fortress. Various and daring have been the exploits of its 
captors and defenders, the last of which was Sir William 
Kirkaldy. For his heroic defence on behalf of his queen, the 
unfortunate Mary, he and his brother were hanged at the 
Cross. The regalia of Scotland, consisting of Bruce 's crown, 
made in the fourteenth century, with the sword of state and 
sceptre, are exhibited in one of the chambers of the castle, 
strongly guarded by sentries and iron bars. Another chamber 
with its furniture is also open to the public. It is the one in 
which Mary Queen of Scots gave birth to James II. of Eng- 
land, after she had fled from Hol3'^rood Palace. 

Colton Hill, about a half mile east from the castle, is also 
too steep for building purposes. Its summit is decorated by 
several monuments, and an astronomical observatory, the top" 
of which is 350 feet high, and affords also a most superb pros- 
pect. But the most commanding altitude is the peak, known 
as Arthur's Seat. It rises from the gardens of Holyrood 
Palace, which lie at the foot of Cannongate Street. At the 
highest point it is 822 feet above the level of the sea. Its 
ascent is not difficult from the east ; facing the west it is nearly 
perpendicular. In ascending the hill the spot is seen where 
Jennie Deans is said to have met the ruffian Robertson, in 
Scotl's novel of the Heart of Midlothian. 

From Arthur's Seat the whole country for twenty miles 
around is under the eye, including the Frith of Forth, seaport 
town of lycith, the island where one of the scenes of Macbeth 
is laid, several villages, mountains and lakes, rendered immor- 
tal by Sir Walter Scott. On a clear day may also be seen the 
Eammermoor hills, the scene of one of Scott's most fascinat- 
ing novels, while at the foot of the hill repose the palace and 
ruined chapel at Holyrood, and the city of Edinburgh. On 
the shoulder of the hill, near the palace, are the ruins of St. 
Anthony's chapel, mentioned in one of Scott's songs : — 

" Now Arthur's seat shall be my bed, 
The sheets sail ne'er be fyled by me ; 
Saint Anton's well shall be my drink, 
Since my true love's forsaken me." 



Carlisle to Edinburgh. 31 



The Palace of Holyrood, when not occupied by the Queen, 
is open to the public under certain restrictions, easily overcome 
by any who desires to see it. It is the most interesting .spot 
in Scotland. The abbey is in ruins, but the castle is kept in 
repair. The apartments of Mary Queen of Scots are kept as 
nearly as possible as she left them, after the murder of her 
Secretary Riccio. There stands her bed, and work basket, 
with some unfinished fancy work The table at which she 
was taking her tea stands just where it did when lyord Darnley 
entered and fondly put his arm around her waist, while his 
gang proceeded to murder the poor Italian. The stains are 
still upon the floor where they left him all night weltering in 
his blood. In I^ord Darnley 's chamber, his portrait, together 
with that of the Queen, painted when she was Dauphiness of 
France, hang upon the wall. If she was as beautiful, and he 
as simple as their portraits represent them, it was indeed an 
ill-starred match. That she had a fool for a husband will 
hardly be questioned, but whether she was justifiable in mur- 
dering him, is a more doubtful subject. The general opinion 
among the most impartial here is, that she in her youth was 
an artless, amiable and confiding woman, but becoming soured 
by disappointment in her husband, and enraged at the disgrace 
he had put upon her, she became revengeful, artful and cor- 
rupt. Had she been as ugly as Mary, Queen of England, 
surnamed the Bloody, her admirers would have been fewer. 
Her portrait cannot well be looked upon without attraction by 
her inimitable beauty, and as the mind naturally associates a 
lovely face with a good heart, we jump to the conclusion 
that the excellencies of her soul were only equalled by the 
elegance of her person. Cleopatra was beautiful, so was 
Delilah, but let the shade of Mark Antony and the ghost of 
Samson answer as to their goodness or virtue. The disposition 
seems to be to carry the doctrine " de mortids nil nisi bomim,'' 
too far when we canonize the defunct Queen for her religious 
faith and praise her for her perfidy to her husband. That she 
was an accessory, if not a principal in his assassination, will 
hardly be doubted. Had she openlj' plunged a dagger in his 
heart, it would have been comparatively pardonable, but she 
enticed him hy her charms, and with words of tenderness and 
love induced him to lodge in Edinburgh, where she could care 
for his comfort and provide for his wants. A terrible explosion 
of gunpowder, her unaccountable absence from the house, the 
shattered remains of the building, and his dead and mangled 
body among the ruins of the house she had provided for him, 
all point to her as his murderer. Her subsequent conduct con- 
firms the suspicion. How can her admirers excuse her willing 
but romantically arranged capture by her accomplice in crime, 



32 Carlisle to Edinburgh, 



her pretence that he had forcibly abducted her, and when the 
offer of her relief came, her declining to be freed from his 
captivity ? When Shakspeare said :^ 

"The evil that men do live after them, 
The goo I Is oft interred with their boues," 

he of course had no reference to women, for the good they do 
lives after them, the bad is often interred with their bones, 
especially if they are pretty. So let it be with Mary. 

Among the many charming places around Edinburgh, 
Hawthornden and Roslin chapel are prominent. The former 
can be reached by rail in about an hour. The sequestered 
glen bursts upon the traveler just when he least expects it. 
By a simple path over an apparently uninteresting country, he 
suddenly comes upon the fairy stream of Esk, with its deep 
dell, great caverns, copsewood and cascades. The path winds 
along the water's edge, with the crags and cliffs of the high 
banks on either side. The castle, now in ruins, stands upon 
the cliff of a rock at least one hundred feet above the water. 
Cut in the solid rock under the castle is a deep well from 
which a passage leads to several large caves and curiously 
shaped rooms, all cut out of the solid rock. When they, were 
made or by whom no one can tell, but their purpose is easily 
divined. They were intended for dwelling places in times 
when habitation above ground could not be enjoyed. About 
two miles down the stream, by a most delightfully romantic 
path, sometimes winding along the water's edge, at others 
coursing over the cliffs overhanging the stream, and deeply 
shaded by copsewood, Roslin Castle stands, and about two 
hundred yards further up the hill is the chapel. The former 
is a ruin, the latter is pretty well preserved. Many are the 
traditions told by the guides and keepers of the two old build- 
ings. Among others they say that on the night previous to 
the death of any of the Eords of Roslin, the chapel appears 
all in flames. Sir Walter Scott's ballad of Rosabelle refers 
to it : — 

" O, listen, listen, ladies gay ! 

No haaghty feat of arms I tell ; 
Soft is tue note, and sad the lay. 

That mourns the lovely Rosabelle. 
O'er Roslin all that dreary night, 

A wondrous blaze was seen to gleam ; 
'Twas broader than the watch-fire's light. 

And redder than the bright moonbeam. 
It glared on Roslin's castled rock, 

It ruddied all the copsewood glen ; 
'Twas seen from Dryden's groves of oak, 

And seen from caverned Hawthornden." 



Edinburgh to Rotterdam, 33 



X. 

Edinburgh to Rotterdam— Dykes and Canals— Wind- 
mills AND Black Cows — Holland Bend— Curious Cus- 
toms— IvIFE IN THE Streets— Smokers and Eaters — Bad 
Drinking Water' — Living Expenses — The Menu. 

Antwerp, August, 1869. 
To go from Edinburgh to Rotterdam, by steamer, requires 
about two days and a half. From the hills of Scotland to the 
plains of Holland, the contrast is striking, but not disagree- 
able. As the old sailor became tired of the Italian sky and 
longed for the fogs of Dondon, so the traveler wearies even of 
mountains, dales and glens, and rejoices at the level sea and 
the unbroken plain. To see Scotland you gaze upward, but 
you look down upon Holland. The land lies several feet below 
the level of the sea> The great canals, some of which are 
larger than many of the rivers of England, are in some places 
fifteen feet above the surface of the fields. The whole country 
seems to have gradually subsided, as it would have been im- 
possible to have walled out the sea and built the immense 
d5^kes and canals without some elevated spot at which to com- 
mence. As well might Archimedes have moved the earth 
without a re.sting place or fulcrum for his lever. The manner 
of raising the water from the ditches up to the canals is as gro- 
tesque as it is efficient ; they check the encroachment of the 
waves by the action of the winds. I counted twenty-seven 
windmills in a row, working like giant slaves day and nigtt, 
having no other employment than pumping up the superfluous 
surface water. The canals answer the double purpose of drain- 
age and internal commerce. Small steamboats run upon them 
without difficulty and carry cattle and produce from the farms 
to the centre of the cities of Amsterdam and Rotterdam, which 
are nearly as full of canals as Venice. It is no uncommon 
sight to see children fishing from the windows of their parents' 
houses facing on the canals. The fields present an appearance 
of the most exuberant verdure for pasture unequalled in the 
world. The banks of the dykes and canals are perfectl}^ clean 
and free from reeds, rushes, or other useless weeds. On my 
way from Rotterdam to the Hague, I saw at one coup d'cei! 
several thousand cattle grazing over miles of meadow, in the 
finest pasture I have seen since I left America. A red cow is 
not to be seen in Holland ; they are spotted black and white. 
If the Hollanders owned the marshes between Marcus Hook 
and Philadelphia, they would soon convert them into a bovine 



34 Edinburgh to RoTTEKOASf. 

paradise. Their industry is unremitting ; men, women, chil- 
dren,, and even puppies work. An idle dog is not found in the 
land ; they make them do all the churning, and haul almost 
cart-loads of butter, eggs and vegetables about the streets for 
sale. The consequence of all this industry is a well-fed and 
comfortably clad people. The English language is only spoken 
at the hotels, but m^ost of the citizens speak French. In Ant- 
werp the French predominates, the streets being named first 
in French, then in Dutch. The singularl}' irregular architect- 
ure of the cit}' of Rotterdam is at once noticed by a stranger. 
The finest buildings are neither ^/?/;;7/<5, level nor square. They 
lean every conceivable way, and are both lopsided and twisted. 
It is not uncommon to see a three-story house three feet out 
of plumb, with the adjoining one perhaps leaning the other 
way. In the narrow streets the tops of the houses Irom the 
opposite sides seem endeavoring to embrace, but unable to 
obtain the coveted kiss, lest they should fall at each other's 
feet. Upon inquiring the cause of all this crookedness, I was 
informed that it was originall}^ because of the swampy nature 
of the ground, the buildings having settled during erection, 
but that it afterwards became fashionable to build them so, 
that they might be like their neighbors. It is not the only 
bad fashion which has been followed here, for I observe the 
ladies have the Grecian, as badly as the houses have the 
Holland bend. The same thing is observable at the Hague as 
Well in the houses as the ladies. Thej^ have .some curious old 
customs here. For instance, the sign of an apothecarj^ is not, 
as with us, large bottles of red and blue water in the windows, 
but consists of a full-sized human head, carved in wood and 
painted as nearlj^ like life as possible, with the mouth wide 
open, and in some cases containing an enormous pill, which 
he seems to be trying to swallow. It is placed on a bracket 
over the door, and is as unanimously adopted by all druggists 
as the Poinpey is in America by tobacconists. The drollest 
thing I have seen here was a bulletin affixed upon the door of 
one of the fashionable houses, and which the passing citizens 
seemed to read with great satisfaction. It read as follows : 
" Der kraamvrouzv en het kind sijn naar ornstandigheden " — 
(the mother and her babe are doing as well as could be ex- 
pected). I was informed that the custom of the country 
requires the advent of every baby to be thus announced. In 
some places in Holland the event is published by hanging 
upon the ' knob of the front door a little board covered with 
red fringed silk. If the little stranger be a girl, a small piece 
of white paper is pasted on it. In case of twins they hang- 
out two. The maidens from sixteen upwards wear white bob- 
binet caps, and on holidays and evenings, in company with 



Edikbukgh to Rotterdam. 



tlieir beaux, resort to the gardens and spend their leisure 
hours in drinking beer, making love, and listening to the 
music, which is always of the very best kind. The young 
men are well-made, hale and rosy-cheeked fellows, and the 
maidens are really pretty, but not to be compared with the 
young ladies of Delaware and Delaware County. I do not 
think they have their superiors in the world, at least I have not 
found them 3-et. The wives and daughters of the farmers 
here work in the fields the same as the men. I actually saw 
them mowing and working potato ground with milch cows 
harnessed to harrows, and wdth bridles and bits in the cows' 
mouths like horses. On the other hand, the wife is in every 
respect her husband's equal, and participates in all his pleas- 
ures. She is consulted on every subject, and has equal access 
to the family treasury ; indeed she is almost invariably the 
treasurer. 

On Saturday nights and Sunday afternoons the town pre- 
sents a very livel}^ appearance. The whole population seem 
to be in the narrow streets, and as the}^ ha^^e no sidewalks 
for foot passengers the consequence is they are full to over- 
fiowang from house to house. The absence of sidewalks is 
observable all over Holland ; where one is found . it is the 
exception, not the rule, and is always considered as the exclu- 
sive property of the owner of the house in front of which it 
is. Whole squares are often obstructed in front of restaurants 
and cafes with tables and chairs, where men and women, es- 
pecially on Sundays, are eating, drinking and smoking. In 
some streets I noticed iron bars placed across the foot-paths at 
intervals of about twenty feet, as a gentle intimation that it 
was no thoroughfare. Thus men, women, maids, donkeys, 
dogs and carts are all compelled to move in one compact mass 
along the streets together, and they seem to have a mutual 
respect for each other. 

The people of Holland are good eaters, though they 
make but one full meal a day. The rule at the hotels, at the 
table d'hote, is for the guests to go through the entire course, 
the last of which is cigars, but, like the wines, they are charged 
extra in the bill. It is not considered a breach of etiquette 
for gentlemen to smoke in the presence of ladies ; the luxury 
is indulged in everywhere, except at church, even in the 
drawing-rooms and parlors of the elite. The principal reason 
why so much beer and wine are drunk in Europe, is the mis- 
erable and unwholesome water found there. I have not tasted 
a glass of good cold water since I left Philadelphia ; it is all 
strongly' impregnated with lime and very hard. Those who 
do not drink wine have to resort to soda water, which is almost 
as expensive as wine. It cost at the hotels nine pence per 



36 Rotterdam to Baden-Baden. 

glass, which is equivalent to eighteen cents, American silver. 
The general idea in America that everything is cheaper in 
Europe is simply erroneous. To live here as one would live 
in America the cost is about the sams. The fact is, the people 
here do not indulge in the luxuries of American life. But few 
can afford to keep horses and carriages ; fewer still can own 
their own houses. Some articles are undoubtedly much 
cheaper, while others are more expensive. 

A hotel breakfast generally consists of a cup of coffee or 
tea, with bread and butter and boiled eggs, or cold roast, or 
corned beef. For supper nothing is taken but a cup of tea and 
bread and butter. The majority do not sup at all. Thi table 
d'hote is the principal meal, and is generally taken from 4.30 
to 6.00 P. M. The second class live chiefly on bread, milk 
and vegetables, seldom indulging in tea or coffee, and rarely 
in beef. For flesh they resort to bacon, and eat freely of the 
cheaper varieties ot fish. Salmon often sells for two shillings 
per pound. The great number of courses named in the bills 
of fare at the hotels is often more dependent upon the skill of 
the cook than the variety of viands, some of the fancy dishes 
being but skillful inventions for saving the previous day's 
fragments. 



XI. 

Rotterdam to Baden-Baden — Brussels and Waterloo 
— The Rhine — Heidleburg — Gambler's Paradise — 
Old Castle of Baden — Ride Through the Black 
Forest — Great Fortifications — Star Spangled Ban- 
NER7— Conjugal Night Scene — No Fences— Vineyards 
— Women in Harness. 

Baden-Baden, August, i86g. 
This is the gamester's paradise and the blissful resort of 
the gay world. It is a beauty spot on Nature's face. The 
town, like a charming but abandoned woman, reclines upon 
the banks of the river Oos, a limpid mountainous stream ; she 
is arrayed in wealth's most voluptuous attire, and decked with 
jewels of countless value, the price of her shame, and the 
revenue of her perverted trade. She is surrounded by moun- 
tains from whose summits the enchanted eye looks down upon 
the broad valley of the Rhine, and from whose base forever 
gush exhaustless springs of water, pure as nectar. Baden- 
Baden must be seen to be fully understood. It is decidedly a 
gay place. It lies at the entrance of the Black Forest, inter- 
esting as the seat of so many legends and superstitious tales. 



Rotterdam to Baden-Baden. 37 



At the top of one of the highest mountains stand the ruins of 
the old castle, one of the most extensive in Germany, and the 
dwelling place, in A. D. 1190, of Herman III., after his return 
from the Holy wars. The carriage drives through the Black 
Forest and over the mountain are most enchanting, and the 
aroma from the mountain firs most exhilarating. Instead of 
indulging in play, I invested a sovereign a day in a carriage, 
guide and pair of splendid black horses, and made excursions 
in every direction through th-e forest and over the mountains, 
and was repaid by a ravenous appetite and an exuberant flow 
of spirits without the aid of wine. The animated scenes 
within and in front of the Conversatio7is-haus — which is simply 
a magnificently fitted up gaming palace, with drawing-rooms, 
reading and dining-rooms, concert hall and promenade — do not 
begin until about 7.00 P. M., and continue in unabated vigor 
until midnight, during which time fortunes are hazarded and 
lost. lyadies from eighteen to eighty spend their whole even- 
ings at the tables, and gamble away an incredible sum of 
money. During the play, while animated by the excitement 
of the game, some of them showed traces of rare beauty ; but 
I noticed them next morning in the gardens, where they resorted 
for recuperation, and upon the cheeks of every one I saw sad 
traces of the serpent's tooth, and from their careworn and 
haggard looks, I fear the poison of his sting was rankling in 
their hearts. Many of them have once been beautiful and all 
talented ; but alas for human nature ! the one has been betrayed 
and the other perverted. An idea can be formed of the extent 
to which play is here indulged in, from the fact that the keeper 
of the establishment pays a rent of about $50,000 per annum, 
and defrays all the expenses of the concern, which amount to 
as much more. 

In my journey from Antwerp, I spent three days at Brus- 
sels and the field of Waterloo, and two full days on the Rhine 
from Cologne to Mayence. I also stopped a short time at 
Heidelberg, which is a very beautiful place, but, in my judg- 
ment, not comparable with Baden-Baden. Brussels is called, 
by those who have seen both cities, lyittle Paris. Both it and 
Antwerp are completely encompassed with most gigantic for- 
tifications. An Ameiican can form but a poor idea of these 
immense military works, as nothing of the kind was ever seen 
in the United States. 

The old bulwarks have been converted into boulevards, 
and make most magnificent streets around the towns. Before 
proceeding to the field of Waterloo I visited the spot where 
the Duchess of Richmond gave her grand ball to the Duke of 
Wellington on the eve of the battle. ''The eyes that then 
looked love to eyes that spoke again, have long since been 



38- Rotterdam to Baden-Baden. 



closed forever, but the sound of revelry at night is still heard 
in Belgium's capital." I have often heard of the inspiring 
effect of a familiar air upon the ear of a wanderer in a foreign 
land ; but I felt it here. There were seven passengers in the 
coach, of which I was the only American. The bugler played 
several airs without attracting any particular attention ; after 
a moment's rest he readjusted his horn and suddenly struck up 
in splendid style the " Star Spangled Banner." I confess the 
effect was so electrical that despite every effort at stoicism, 
my eyes filled with tears and my thoughts were immediately 
transferred from the conflicting scenes of strife and blood so 
intimately associated with Waterloo, to the now peaceful fields 
and sunny plains of my own dear native land. A drive of 
about three hours through a luxuriant and well-cultivated 
country brought us to the Battle Monument, an immense 
mound of earth surmounted b}^ an enormous Belgian lion. It 
requires about four hours to survey the field, and by the assist- 
ance of a good guide and a history of the battle at hand, more 
can be learned of the tremendous conflict and decisive victor}^ 
of June 1 8, 1815, than by months of study. It does not re- 
quire much imagination, while looking at the bullet marks 
upon the walls and the broken and shattered inclosure of the 
garden, known as the Poste d'Hougomont— which stands to-daj^ 
very much as the battle left it — to reproduce upon the sur- ■ 
rounding hills the contending armies, surging like an angr}' 
sea to and fro amid the smoke and confusion of tlie battle, the 
beating of drums, roaring of artillery, charges of the cavalry, 
groans of the wounded and moans of the dying. Many per- 
sons visit Waterloo, but few see it. I^ike those who visit and 
merely glance at the superb masterpiece of Rubens in the 
Cathedral at Antwerp, without taking time to study it, the3' 
go away disappointed. 

There is but one step from the sublime to the ridiculous, 
and I must be pardoned for making the sudden descent. On 
returning to Brussels, fatigued by the long drive and four 
hours' walk I retired early to bed. I was suddenlj^ aroused 
by a tremendous row between an English tourist and his wife 
in the adjoining room, and as the transom over the communi- 
cating door was open, the noise was more distinctlj' heard. 
He had evidently left her in the hotel, and gone out to see the 
town. She had left the candle burning for him, but it had 
exhausted itself before his return. In endeavoring to sneak 
into bed without awakening his wife, he ran against the table, 
upset the wash-stand and broke the pitcher and basin to atoms, 
and at the same time fell himself sprawling on the floor, j^ell- 
ing as he fell, " Where in 'ell's the candle ?" " W^here have 
you been all night ?" screamed the wife. " Hall night ! hit's 



Rotterdam to Baden-Baden. 39^ 

honly 'alf past ten ; I've just come from the theatre. You'ie 
alwaj'S lecturing me, and if you don't stop it we'll 'ave han 
halmight}^ row. So I caution you not to do it." Just then 
the treacherous town-clock struck three. " There," said the 
indignant wife, " I knew you were deceiving me ; you've been 
at some bad house and left me here all aloneamong strangers. 
You'll break mj^ heart, so you will. Oh, boo-woo-woo." A 
soothing scene followed, entirely too affecting for vulgar ears, 
so I gave a very loud cough, which seemed to have a marvel- 
lous effect in quieting the impending storm. Methought I 
heard a smothered kiss and an affectionate utterance, some- 
thing like that made by a cow when her calf wanders too far 
away, and all was quiet as a grave ; he had doubtless con- 
vinced her of his innocence, for next morning they were as 
loving as turtle doves. 

On my journey from Brussels to Cologne I noticed what 
I had also particularly observed around Brussels, the entire 
absence of fences or inclosures. Even the roads were un- 
fenced and not a horse, cow, or sheep could be seen anywhere, 
except in the fields at work. The land is good and undulat- 
ing, but cultivated on a very small scale, the cattle being kept 
in stalls and the grass being mowed for them every day. The 
entire country is divided into small patches, composed of 
oblong and irregular squares, varying from a few feet to a few 
acres, giving to the face of the country a checkered appear- 
ance, not unlike an immense patch-work bed quilt ; here a 
patch of deep green potatoes, there one of light green oats, 
adjoining one of bright yellow mustard, red clover, purple- 
topped turnips, wheat, barle}' and cabbages. 

One of the most interesting journeys in Europe is from 
Cologne up the Rhine as far as Maj^ence. Of course it would 
be utterly impossible to give anything like an adequate descrip- 
tion of the scenery in the narrow limits of a letter. Those 
who have traveled up the Hudson can form some idea of it, 
but nothing can supply the historical interest connected with 
every mile of the Rhine ; its mountains, castles, villages and 
vineyards passing like a panorama before the eye are entirelj^ 
bej-ond description, and are superlatively beautiful. 

A vineyard, however, while remarkable for the great labor 
bestowed on the terraces on which they are planted, often ex- 
tending up the side of a mountain so steep that it would be 
otherwise impossible of ascent, has no particular beauty about 
it, and is not half as attractive as a well-cultivated field of 
corn. The vines are planted about three feet apart, tied to 
rough stakes, and never permitted to grow over four feet high. 
The}' are in some places planted from the mountain top down 
to the river edge, the flow of which is verj' rapid, and in this 



40 Baden to Geneva. 



respect not unlike the Susquehanna at Harrisburg. It is no 
uncommon sight to see women in harness performing the duties 
of mules and horses along the tow-paths up the Rhine, while 
big lazy-looking men are sitting on the deck, or steering the 
boat and smoking their pipes. 



XII. 

Badi;n to Gknkva — ^Bai^e^-Les Ii^lusion Perdu — Grand 
Scenery — Mont Blanc— Pure and Foue Water Can- 
not Feow in one Stream — First Sight of a Glacier 
— Fifty Miles by Diligence— Mountain Roads in 
Savoy— Valley of Chamouni— Optical Delusion — 
Adventure of a Yankee on a Glacier— Dangerous 
Passes—River Arve— Stars and Stripes in Switzer- 
land. 

Geneva, August, 1869. 
I have escaped from the allurements of Baden-Baden, and 
have taken refuge in this old Calvinistic town, chiefly inhab- 
ited by clock-makers, jewellers and millionaries, and more 
remarkable for the natural beauty of its situation than its 
monuments of art. I broke my journey at Bale, and was fully 
compensated for the time there expended. Its quiet demeanor 
is in fine contrast with its gay neighbor of Baden. It contains 
two of the finest churches I have seen on the continent. The 
one remarkable for its well-preserved antiquity, the other for 
its modern architectural beauty. The old Cathedral of Bale 
'was founded by Henri II., and is about 900 years old. It has 
■suffered from war, fire and earthquakes, but still presents its 
original appearance, in this respect unlike many of the old 
monuments of Europe, which instead of being restored have 
been reconstructed and spoiled by the confusion of architecture . 
The new church of St. Elizabeth is a magnificent modern 
structure of the purest gothic order, and is composed entirely, 
within and without, of dressed and ornamented stone. If not 
destroyed by violence, it will begin to be admired a thousand 
years from now. Bale is the republic of Switzerland where 
the air is supposed to be too pure for kings to breathe, but I 
am inclined to think that their absence depends more upon 
the height of the mountains than the purity of the air. I 
rubbed my eyes and picked my ears, expecting of course, to 
■see those beautiful maidens — pictures of which I had seen in 
my youth, with their little straw hats, crooks, ribbons and 
white petticoats, and to hear the shepherd's pipe or the echo 



Baden to Geneva. 41. 

of his merry song as he guarded his sheep and led them from 
the waterfall of the mountains to the pastures of the valley. 
All was vain ! The mountains, meadows and cascades were 
visible, but instead of the maidens, cottages, shepherds and 
flocks, I saw nothing but ugly old hags with immense goitres 
like pelicans, performing the tripJe duty of shepherd, child's 
nurse and knitting stockings. In some places instead of sheep, 
they were guarding herds of black hogs. And thus the 
romance and poetry of youth is ever blurred, blighted and 
disappointed by the stern realities of life. As I advanced 
toward Geneva, and even along the far-famed valley of Cha- 
mouni, it got worse instead of better. All along the route I 
saw women and girls performing the labor of horses and mules 
as well as the work of men. They not only reap the grain 
and mow the grass, but they carry on their backs the hay and 
grain from the fields to the barns. I saw them staggering 
under loads I would not have put upon a horse. 

The scenery, however, is superlatively grand. The Alps 
are in constant view, and the mountains and valleys are stud- 
ded with cities, villages and cottages. The line of the road 
passes from I^ausanne to Geneva, along the entire northwestern 
shore of the lake, which is about fifty miles in length, and affords 
a most perfect view of the Alpine hills and Mont Blanc, 
which, although fifty-one miles distant by diligence, does not 
seem more than ten miles off. The waters of the lyake of 
Geneva are crystal clear, and at a short distance look as blue 
as indigo. Stones and shells can be seen on the bottom in 
thirty feet of water. The city of Geneva is situated at the 
extreme southwest end of the lake, where it empties into the 
Rhone. The rapidity of the current is startling, it darts under 
the bridges like an arrow and propels the machinery of great 
factories by under-tow water-wheels. No races or water 
courses are necessary, the force of the current entirely super- 
seding the weight of water required. About half a mile below 
the town the river Arve joins the Rhone. The confluence is 
very remarkable, they run together for a mile or two in the 
same channel without mixing, the line of each river being as 
distinctly marked as if one were oil and the other water. 
After thus flowing side by side for some time, they gradually 
mingle, and then the pure waters of the Rhone assume the 
character of the muddj- waters of the Arve, and from the 
most limpid it becomes one of the most murk}^ of rivers. 
While contemplating the purity of the one thus soiled and 
corrupted by the filthiness of the other, it seemed like a lesson 
of nature, teaching the inevitable fate of virtue when attempt- 
ing to run in the same course with vice, she is sure to become 
soiled and eventually corrupted, for although the Rhone is 



42 Baden to Geneva. 

much the greater river, after its confluence with the Arve it 
loses its character for purity and assumes that of the defiled 
one it has received into its bosom. 

On a clear day Mont Blanc can be distinctly seen from 
Geneva, and the sight of it has certainly a very exhilarating 
effect on one seeing it for the first time. The desire to ascend 
it and stand upon its glaciers is irresistible, and must be grat- 
ified even at the expense of a hundred francs and two days' 
journey in a diligence, or, in other words, in an old-fashioned 
stage coach drawn by six horses, three abreast. The journey 
is very charming ; I need not describe it to the fathers of 
Delaware County ; they remember the ante-railroad days ; 
what the stage coach was then there, is precisely what the 
diligence is now here, from Geneva to Chamouni, which is at 
the foot of Mont Blanc. Our diligence contained sixteen pas- 
sengers ; the road is up hill nearly the entire fifty -one miles, 
but by changing horses three times, Chamouni is reached in 
twelve hours. The journey back is performed in eight hours, 
because of the descending grade. At some places the greatest 
skill is required to keep the coach from striking the rocks on 
either side of the road, at other places it is so tortuous that it 
is with difficulty the precipices along the mountain sides are 
avoided. The Emperor Napoleon is, however, having a new 
road built which is to be opened next week, and which will 
greatly facilitate travel from Geneva to Chamouni. 

I will not attempt to describe the valley of Chamouni ; 
abler pens have failed to do it justice. At some favorite spots 
its scenery is enchantingly beautiful, leaving upon the mind 
of the beholder a vague presentiment of unreality from which 
it is difficult to realize that he is gazing upon snow and ice, 
and at the same time inhaling the aroma of flowers and blos- 
soms, luxuriantly flourishing in richly cultivated gardens and 
meadows, overhung by barren peaks and rugged crags. As 
we crossed a rustic bridge over the Arve, about seventeen 
miles by road from Chamouni, the coach suddenl}^ stopped ; 
at the same time the driver cried at the top of his voice : 
" Voila le Mont Blanc au gauche.'' All eyes were instantly 
turned to the left, and there, comparatively not five hundred 
yards distant, loomed up the great white mountain, as bright 
as unsoiled snow, and glistening in the beams of the fast de- 
clining sun like burnished silver. A picture approaching the 
reality of this scene would be rejected as an exaggeration. 
We could not realize the fact that the mountain was twelve 
miles distant in a direct line, but the consumption of three 
hours of hard driving before we reached our destination, con- 
vinced us of the truth. A young American gentleman from 
Chicago, with the usual and often reprehensible conceit of his 



Baden to Geneva. 43 

country men, on the day after our arrival, ascended one of the 
spurs of the mountain M^ithout a guide, and as a consequence 
spent the entire night upon the mountain, having lost his path 
and nearly his life, in wandering over the glaciers, rocks and 
tortuous paths. The whole village was as a matter of course 
alarmed for his safety, and our fears were not relieved until 
the next morning about nine o'clock, when he came to the 
hotel more dead than alive, having had neither shelter nor 
food for twenty-four hours. The known paths are sufficiently 
dangerous and difficult, without seeking " new ones which we 
know not of. ' ' The path from Montanvert to what is known 
as Te Jardin is in some places quite difficult, passing for some 
considerable distance over what are called the pouts along the 
side of a nearly perpendicular rock. The rock is passed by 
means of steps about two inches wide by six or seven in length, 
cut in the side of the rock ; a slight loss of the centre of gravity, 
which is maintained by hugging closely to the side of the rock, 
would be certain destruction, as the glacier is 300 feet below. 
The slight danger, however, adds amazingly to the enjo^^ment 
of the adventure ; like every other t.aste of joy, it must have 
its corresponding perils to give zest to the pleasurable emotions 
thereby awakened. 

The best view of the range of Mont Blanc is had from 
Mount Flegere, on the opposite side of the river. The path 
is good and smooth, and by three hours' hard walking the 
summit may be reached, when the entire range lies under the 
eye, and the lovely valley of Chamouni, with its villages and 
meadows, may be seen for miles. Of the innumerable needles 
and peaks, pointed cut and named by the guide, two only fast- 
ened themselves on my mind. No person having once seen 
can ever forget Aiguille Dru and Aigidlle Verte, presenting 
the appearance of a gigantic Gothic cathedral, with two enor- 
mous towers frowning down upon the vier de glace. It requires 
a day to visit this glacier in order to form a perfect idea of its 
magnitude. By simply ascending Montanvert, which can be 
done in two hours, crossing the glaciers and returning by 
Mauvais Pas requiring two hours more, an adequate judgment 
cannot be formed of this immense sea of ice. By extending 
the journey over the pouts to the juuction de Tacul, and from 
thence to I,e Jardin , which will require seven hours more on 
the ice, the mind is enabled to partially comprehend its mag- 
nitude. I have no doubt but that it is over a mile thick in 
some places. It has been melting for thousands of years, and 
will continue to melt thousands of years to come, before it 
disappears, which it must eventually do. It extends down to 
the valley, and forms the source of the river Arve, which 
gushes full formed from under an immense arch, formed by the 



44 Geneva to Paris. 

melting of the ice. It is said that four thousand Americans 
have visited it this year. I observed the United States flag 
floating from the roof of every hotel in Chamouni, with that 
of England and France ; no others are seen. Are these three 
the only nations of the earth ? American travelers have a 
good reputation, and I hope they will maintain it, though a 
sacred regard for truth compels me to say that I have met some 
fools from mj^ own country ; the}'' are, however, the exception 
to the rule, and are composed chiefly of a class distinguished 
for a lavish display of diamonds and jewelr}^ and scarcity of 
brains. I leave here to-morrow for Paris where j^ou will, per- 
haps, hear from me for the last time, as from there I shall 
embark for home. 



XIII. 



Geneva to Paris Hundredth Anniversary of the 

Birth of Napoleon I. — Paris in a Beaze of Glory — 
ly. N. — A Peasant's Advice — Waiting for Sunrise — 
The Bastile— IvETTre de Cachet— Column of July— Ten 
Thousand Rampart Guns Discharged by one Electric 
Spark — First Sight of Paris — Why is Paris such a 
Pleasant Place ? — Gate of Hell — Amusements — 
Churches — Schools — Saloons — -Theatres— Galleries 
OF Art — -Museums — Soirees — -Balls — Shops — Restau- 
rants — Boulevards — The Devil in Paris — History — 
Character of the People — Monkeys when Pleased — 
Tigers when in a Rage — Place de la Concorde— The 
National Razor — Reign of Terror — New Paris — The 
TuiLLERiES — Coup d'Etat of 1851 — Walls of Paris — 
Pere la Chaise— French Female Modesty— King I^ouis 
Phillipe — Talking Politics Prohibited — A Travel- 
er's lyiFE NOT AN Easy One. 

Paris, August, 1869. 
While in the village of Chamouni I saw workmen engaged 
in the apparently vain task of planting great forest pines in 
the shadeless streets of that picturesque town. As the trees 
had no roots my curiosity prompted me to inquire of one of 
the laborers the object of such a strange work. • With a look 
of mingled contempt and amazement he replied in French : 
" Is it possible that Monsieur does not know that the fifteenth of 
this month is the one hundreth anniversary of the birth of the 
Great Emperor ?" I informed him that I was an American, 
which I hoped would excuse my ignorance. The rootless 



Geneva to Pakis. 45 

trees were to decorate the naked squares, and were to be orna- 
mented with flags and Chinese lanterns very much as a child 
would decorate its Christmas tree. " If I were Monsieur" 
said the workman, " and had the money Monsieur has, I would 
be in Paris on the fifteenth to see the grand fete. Paris will 
be seen as it never has appeared before. Ten thousand can- 
non will be discharged by one instantaneous electric spark 
just at sunrise. The first ray upon the Golden statue of lyib- 
erty on the Column of July is to be the signal for the grand 
event." 

I had been wandering among the mountains of Switzer- 
land, and enjoying nature in all its rugged grandeur. I never 
wearied in climbing its cragg}^ peaks, in walking over its 
fertile meadows or sailing upon its placid lakes. Even its 
cold and cheerless glaciers had an enchantment that seemed to 
chain my soul a willing captive to their icy charms. I had 
resolved to cross over into Italy and visit Rome, only three 
days distant, and leave Paris as an epicure would his dessert, 
until the last of the feast, but the disinterested advice of this 
peasant of Savoy induced me to break up m}^ previous arrange- 
ments and go at once to Paris. By traveling at night as well 
as by day, I reached Paris on the morning of the fifteenth. 
The day was bright and the scene charming. Every town 
along the route was decorated with tri -colored flags, triumphal 
arches were erected in the principal streets and wreaths of 
immortelles were upon the monuments. The groves and gar- 
dens at night were gaily illuminated, while the happy citizens 
amused themselves with music, dancing, rural plays and 
promenades. On every monument, church, public building 
and market place, the eye met the monogram of the Emperor, 
" ly. N. " in letters of gold. No word but of praise was 
heard, as well of the Great Emperor as for his nephew the 
present ruler of France. Can the glory of Napoleon III. ever 
fade or the star of his prosperity set ? God only knows. 
Time must answer. 

Our train halted without the city walls in the Bois de 
Vincennes. Every eye was turned toward the Column of 
July, in the Place de la Bastile, to catch the first ra}^ of sun- 
light upon the Genius of Liberty on its top. While waiting 
for sunrise I endeavored in fancy to rebuild the Bastile and re- 
people it with the many prisoners of State whose lives have 
been smothered within its cruel walls. The royal dames and 
proud chevaliers who had died in rags and filth or had been 
starved in its deep mouldy cells or iron cages, and whose neg- 
lected skeletons were found when the accursed den was forever 
destroyed, will never be known. The word of the king, or 
his Lettre de Cachet often fraudulently obtained, opened the 



Geneva to Paris. 



merciless gates and closed them upon the proudest, bravest and 
best citizens of France. When once within the Bastile no 
power save that of the King could liberate the prisoner. 
They had no Habeas Corpses to bring him face to face with his 
accuser. After a few anxious inquiries by relations and 
friends he was as completely forgotten as if in his grave. 
I afterwards saw in one of the museums of Paris an original 
Lettre de Cachet. It had been issued by lyouis XIV. It read 
as follows : " O est par vton ordre et pour le bien d' Etat que le 
portettr a ce preseiit a fait ce qu'il a fait." The English of 
which is : " It is by my order ^and for the good of the State 
that the bearer of this letter has done what he has done." 
The Bastile was destroyed by the people July 14, 1789. The 
fourteenth of July has been a fete day ever since. The keys 
were presented to General Washington. The Column of July 
was erected to commemorate its destruction. The column is 
155 feet high, and is entirely of metal. It is a beautiful Corin- 
thian column which supports a golden globe upon the top of 
which, with outstretched arms, facing the west, poised on one 
foot, stands the statue of the Genius of Liberty, as if about to 
depart westward. In his right hand he holds a burning torch, 
in his left hand a broken chain to indicate that the flame of 
freedom like natural fire must be confided to a strong hand. 
When the sun arose on the fifteenth of August, 1869, there were 
over 4,000,000 persons in Paris. In breathless suspense we 
awaited the given signal. Suddenly the simultaneous and con- 
centrated roar of 10,000 great rampart guns belched forth the 
glad tidings that the one hundredth anniversary of the birth 
of the Great Emperor had arrived. 

.1 cannot express the feeling I experienced on entering for 
the first time a city of which I have heard so much. It is 
surrounded by forests, groves and gardens, and ornamented 
within by statuary, fountains and boulevards. When I stood 
in the garden of the Tuilleries and looked up the beautiful 
Avenue Des Champs-Elysees as far as the Arc de Triomphe 
I felt indeed that I was in the Elysian Fields and was enjoy- 
ing an exquisite view of celestial scener}^, but the Bacchana- 
lian revels of fallen Angels and the stern demands of hunger 
soon admonished me that I was yet mortal and still in this 
sin cursed world. 

There is an enchanting charm about Paris hard to explain 
because the result of so many causes. It is laid out with 
great taste, the air is pure and climate congenial. It is embel- 
lished and adorned by all that art can bestow or wealth com- 
mand. One does not become fatigued in Paris as in other 
places, its pleasures do not satiate desire, nor its pains make 
the body weary. 



Genkva to Paris. 47 



The compactness of the city adds much to its charms. 
Its native population is about 2,000,000 and it usually con- 
tains 1,000,000 strangers. While it has four times as many 
inhabitants as Philadelphia, it is only about one-third as large 
in territorial limits. When we remember that the 1,000,000 
strangers are mostly there for pleasure and to spend rather 
than to make money, we can form some idea of its gaiety. 
This immense population is confined within a circuit of about 
twenty-one miles, yet the cit}^ contains over one thousand 
miles of streets. Fancy, if you can, a grand avenue like 
Broadway, one thousand miles long, with no square without 
some object of interest. Whichever way we turn some noble 
edifice, beautiful column, triumphal arch, colossal monument, 
bridge, museum, church, palace, fountain, garden or park at- 
tracts the attention. Another contribution to its charms is its 
fresh, clean and bright appearance. If fatigued we can take 
a chair in some delightful flower garden or in front of a good 
cafe. The flower beds have no fences nor forbidding notices 
to warn the citizen that he must " keep off the grass." 

The city is built of a soft, chalk-like stone of a mellow 
yellowish color. It forms the sub-stratum upon which the 
city stands. It is from this that " Plaster of Paris " is made. 
In the old part of the city the quarries have been converted 
into catacombs which undermine about one-tenth of the sur- 
face of the cit3^ They contain the bones of over 3,000,000 
dead, fantastically arranged and built in on the face of the 
walls, presenting in the gas light a ghastly picture. Openings 
have been made to admit the air and channels to carry off the 
water. Pillars support the vaults. Ninet}' steps have been 
cut to carry the visitors to the gloomy caverns. The place of 
entrance is called Barriere d'Enfer, or " Gate of Hell." 

The atmosphere of Paris is usually so pure that the whole 
city can be seen from any of its elevations. The smoke as- 
cends in a straight column to the clouds, while in I^ondon it 
hangs like a pall and is so dense that one can see but a few 
squares even from the dome of St. Paul's. Paris is well gov- 
erned. The police, like trained soldiers, are always ready for 
instant service. They never converse with citizens except 
upon subjects of duty If your cabman should become intoxi- 
cated, or be arrested for any breach of municipal regulations, 
the Sergeant-de-ville takes him in charge and, that you may 
suffer no inconvenience, he puts one of his reserve force in the 
driver's seat, who politely carries you to your destination. 

Much of the pleasure of Parisian life depends upon its 
system of public amusement. The various desires of the 
human heart seem to have been provided for and a free amuse- 
ment selected for every phase of gratification. Are you of a 



Geneva to Paris. 



religious disposition ? Such churches and sacred institutions 
are nowhere to be found. They are always open and contain 
the most interesting relics of Christianity. If the visitor is of 
an intelligent turn of mind, such schools, salons, galleries of 
art and museums are nowhere to be seen. Here you may look 
upon the remains of ancient as well as the gems of modern 
art. There are paintings in the Louvre worth a fortune to be 
seen, studied and enjo5'ed as freely as the air is breathed. The 
soldier has his museum of artillery and war with maps, plans 
and models systematically arranged, illustrating the world's 
great battlefields and presenting a mass of most useful infor- 
mation in a most attractive form . 

Singular as it may seem, the first theatres of Paris onlj^ 
represented sacred subjects and were patronized by pious 
citizens, priests and church members. They soon degenerated 
, to their present style. When Napoleon became Emperor he 
suppressed all the low and vulgar ones. Only nine of the best 
were licensed, but after the restoration, the drama was so en- 
couraged that Paris now has forty theatres, some good and 
respectable, others very common and vulgar. The govern- 
ment pays annually to the French opera 1,000,000 francs. The 
Theatre Francais receives annually 240,000 francs as an encour- 
agement for classic comedy. It is estimated that six thousand 
persons daily frequent the theatres of Paris. The theatres are 
required to pay a license tax of ten per cent, of their profits, 
which is distributed to the poor. This source of revenue alone 
in 1867, amounted to $5,000,000. The government also 
awards two annual prizes for the four best plays represented 
during the year, one of five thousand francs and the other of 
three thousand francs. 

The great social charm of Paris is its soirees or private 
entertainments given by the opulent citizens. The resident 
families in fashionable life give weekly receptions from the 
opening to the close of winter. No invitation is required. In 
the course of a month a stranger may see all the prominent men 
and women in political, literary or fashionable life at these 
soirees. It is not improper to attend several on the same night, 
lyong stays are not expected. The only form required is a 
decent suit, gloved hands and the announcement of the name, 
and after a salutation to the host movement within and exit 
are free. If one wishes to attend a soiree of the nobility the 
auspices of his diplomatic representative will be required. 

The public balls also afford a fine opportunity to see 
high life of French as well as foreign society. Everybody 
goes to the. balls. Scandal is absolutely unknown. Good 
p^iblic manners and a polite demeanor are all that is required 
to secure respect and an entrance into the best society. 



Geneva to Paris, 49 

Paris has many other attractions. It is the paradise of 
milliners, mantua makers and shop-keepers. The ladies all 
love Paris. The fair one may spend her time and her hus- 
band's money without limit. The women are free from the 
cares of housekeeping. Many citizens have but a sleeping 
place and live in the stieets and take their meals at the res- 
taurants. The making of a cup of coffee is about all the cook- 
ing done in the dwellings. The man servant is the fac-totum 
of the establishment while the fanme de ckambre keeps the 
sleeping apartments in order All the washing is done at the 
laundries. The Emperor would not feel degiaded by being 
found at his meals in a good restaurant. There are about 3000 
of them now in the city fitted up with great taste and patron- 
ized by the best society. The history ot these restaurants is 
amusing. In 1 765 a French cook fitted up a house for the sale 
of refreshments. He chose for his sign a I^atin parody upon 
a well-known passage of Scripture : ' ' Venite ad me omnes qui 
stomacho laboratis, et ego restaurabo vos," The experiment 
was a success, and the word " Restaurabo " in the parody was 
the origin of the word restaurant now so general all over the 
world. 

The boulevards in summer are filled with well-dressed 
crowds, either promenading or seated in groups among the 
green trees and thousand lights in front of some fashionable 
restaurant with neatly dressed waiters in white caps and aprons, 
ready to serve you with any desired refreshments, on little 
tables provided for that purpose. If it is desired, meals will 
be served at any named place. All you have to do is to bar- 
gain for the number of dishes and all the cares of the table are 
over. The variety of dishes runs from fried snails to horse- 
flesh steaks. It is no uncommon thing to find four hundred 
dishes named on one bill of fare. 

^ While Paris is such a paradise of pleasure, a sacred regard 
for truth compels me to confess that all the baser passions find 
fuller freedom here than in any other city. The devil in Paris 
is the same individual but of politer mien than his namesake 
in other cities. Here he is a gentleman of culture and prides 
himself upon his good manners. He shows you the way to 
hell with a patronizing smile ; he points out its smooth and 
attractive path enlivened by the sweetest music and planted 
with the choicest flowers. For such as seek forbidden pleas- 
ures, the city presents her Jardin Mabile, Tivoli, students' 
balls, exhibitions of living statuary, and innumerable other 
palaces of impure enjoyment, garnished with most alluring 
attractions for the unwarj' traveler or confiding youth. The 
government has established rules for houses of prostitution 
and grants them an annual license. The emperor has given to 



so 



Geneva to Paris. 



the citizens of his Capital a carie blanche for every enjoyment, 
subject to but one condition, that of good public order. Im- 
politeness, rudeness, rowdyism or boisterousness, even in the 
most abandoned resorts, will not be permitted. The most fas- 
tidious ear will seldom be offended either by day or night in 
the streets. You must seek the impure Goddess, but her 
shrine is easily found. There is a certain abandon in Parisian 
life which, however reprehensible, is certainly very seducing. 

Before the Roman conquest, Paris was a Druid fort upon 
the isle of St. Ivouis. It was surrounded with great marshes 
and heavy forests full of hungry wolves. The lyouvre takes 
its name from a bloody struggle between the citizens and a 
pack of half starved wolves. Louvre in French has the same 
meaning as wolf in English. The Gospel was first preached 
here by St. Denis, A. D. 250 ; he suffered martyrdom on a 
hill on the north part of the city, ever since called Monbnartre 
— or the Martyr's Hill. Some, however, maintain that the 
name is a corruption of Mons Martis or Mars Hill. Five or 
six old-fashioned windmills still stand on the hill from the 
summit of which all Paris can be seen. It is 300 feet above 
the Seine. It was in the old church on Montmartre that Ig- 
natius Loyola, on the fifteenth of August, 1534, founded the 
Order of Jesuits, a society whose influence has been felt by 
every government of the world. 

In the year 1466, a law was enacted guaranteeing protec- 
tion to all the malefactors of the world provided they became 
resident citizens of Paris. It was soon filled with murderers, 
robbers and political offenders from surrounding nations which 
is supposed to in some degree, account for the marked nerv- 
ousness and excitability of the Parisian French, who are said 
to be like monkeys when pleased but tigers when in a rage. All 
history proves the Parisian French, in their times of peace 
and tranquility to be merciful and kind hearted, but when 
their passions are aroused they are blood-thirsty and desperate 
almost to insanity. Their tragedies are the saddest and their 
comedies are the most frivolous. Paris presents to-daj' many 
monuments of her tragic history. The Obelisque du Luxor in 
the Place de la Concorde surrounded by beautiful fountains 
and statuary, stands on the spot once occupied by the Guillo- 
tine. The rabble made merry over its bloody work and 
sportively called it the National Razor. So many of the best 
citizens had their heads shaved off by this blood-thirsty barber 
that it became necessary to dig a canal from the Guillotine J:o 
the Seine to carry off the blood, just as a butcher would dig a 
trench from his slaughter house to the nearest stream. 

In those days some overburdened peasants presumed most 
respectfully to ask the aristocratic Assembly to reduce their. 



Geneva to Paris. 51 



taxes that they might with the money saved buy bread for their 
children. One of the proud deputies in his speech upon the 
subject said : "If the peasants cannot afford to buy bread let 
them eat hay— the taxes must bepaid>" Shortly afterwards 
the wheel of fortune turned. The tax payers were elevated 
to political power and their first act was to decapitate the 
orator and march through the streets of Paris with his head 
on a pole and a wisp of hay in his mouth, much to the amuse- 
ment of the merry citizens who thought it a capital joke. 
Were it not for the eternal vigilance of the ruling powers, 
scenes as extravagant, as tragic and as bloody would be wit' 
nessed in the streets of Paris to-day. There is a political 
party here called Communists, who hold secret meetings and 
advocate a return to the convention, the Guillotine and the 
reign of terror as the only remedy for imperialism and royalty. 

Napoleon III. takes every precaution that human foresight 
can suggest to guard his imperial throne. He has removed 
all the cobble stones from the streets to prevent the building 
of barricades. In 1830, four thousand barricades were sud- 
denly made from the cobble stones torn up from the streets. 
The Emperor does not intend that this shall happen again-. 
Grand avenues, under the pretext of improving Paris have been 
opened in straight but radiating lines from strategic centres, 
so as to put the entire city under the guns of a few well posted 
batteries. No power of France, save treachery from within, 
can dethrone Napoleon III. He floated into power on a wave 
of popular inconsistency. While liberty slept during the 
night of December i, 1851, as confident of security as we now 
are of the perpetuity of our Republic, he entered her Temple 
and when she suddenly awoke on the morning of December 2, 
she found the Republic of the night before metamorphosed 
into an empire with its former President as its emperor. Na- 
poleon has dwelt in the Tuilleries in comparative safety, during 
the past eighteen years. A political thunder storm may result 
in his ejectment as summarily as the departure of his royal 
predecessor. Human tenure of earthly power is very uncer- 
tain. God reigns, and earthly rulers, despite their greatest 
precautions, are set up and removed from place and power as 
easily as a piece from the chessboard by the master of the 
game. 

The coup d'etat of December i, 1851, marked an era in 
the improvement of Paris never witnessed by any other city* 
Qigantic fortifications and new walls have been built. The 
approaches to the citj^ are guarded by seventeen casemated 
forts situated at convenient distances, connected by a series of 
strategical roads. The walls and forts are armed with 2813 
cannon, including 575 heavy rampart guns. Paris can never 



52 Geneva to Paris. 

be taken by assault, it may succumb to famine. I am half 
inclined to believe that these immense walls and fortified posi- 
tions are as much intended to awe the unriily citizens within 
the city as to defend Ihem from possible enemies from without. 
I suppose the time will come, if Paris continues to im- 
prove in the future as she has in the past, when the walls of 
Napoleon III. will be removed, and their place be converted 
into a new line of boulevards just as the old walls were torn 
down three or four times for that purpose. The city has 
always been of an oval shape encircled with walls. As the 
population spread and the city outside the walls increased 
to accommodate its rapid growth, new^ systems of bulwarks 
were erected further out and the old ones were torn down and 
converted into streets. Boulevard, in French, means a bul- 
wark. All the great boulevards were formerly the bulwarks 
of the city. They now contain its finest and most imposing 
buildings, theatres, churches, restaurants and hotels. 

There are four cemeteries within the walls, the most fash- 
ionable of which is Pere Iva Chaise, near the eastern wall. It 
occupies a commanding eminence, from the heights of which the 
whole city can be distinctly seen. Pere I^a Chaise was the con- 
fessor of Ivouis XIV. , and had his country seat upon the beauti- 
ful hill now occupied by the cemetery. It was a battlefield be- 
tween the French and Russians in 1 8 14. A single grave in 
Pere I^a Chaise cannot be secured now under seven hundred 
francs. This great necropolis contains about 98,000 monu- 
ments, some in good but many in very poor taste. There are 
days when 100,000 people visit the cemetery. The most cele- 
brated monument is that of Abelard and Heloise which to this 
day is often wreathed with flowers by some unknown fair one. 
It is looked upon by the French maidens as the true shrine of 
disappointed love. 

I may be pardoned for referring to the little monument 
over the grave of the daughter of Madamoiselle Mars. Miss 
Mars was never married, but had a little girl baby which she 
buried in this cemetery, and erected over it a monument, the 
inscription upon which informs us that the ashes of the little 
one beneath it was the only daughter of Miss Mars. Miss 
Mars, was a celebrated actress and great favorite with the 
French people. She was freely received into the best society. 
You cannot find a French lady or gentleman who can see the 
slightest impropriety in what would, with us, be considered as 
a publication of her own shame. The want of sensibilij:y 
apon this subject may be accounted for from the fact that one- 
third of all the children born in Paris are illegitimate. The 
fault is generally supposed to be with the men, who are inclined 
to looseness and profligacy ; the women as a rule are fair, 



Geneva to Fakis. 53 



vivacious, neat and industrious and make good, thrifty wives. 
The entire care of the family is left with the mother, who at the 
same time often manages two or three restaurants and super- 
intends one or two shops. I do not believe that the women of 
Paris are less virtuous than their sisters of other large cities. 
I saw hundreds of shop girls at their earnest religious devo- 
tions on Sunday at Notre Dame. Bad girls do not pray. "" 

Before leaving Paris I visited the Palace of the Tuilleries 
and saw its chambers, halls and saloons, so long the dwelling 
place of royalty. With its magnificent furniture and gorgeous 
embellishments it is a very interesting monument of the olden 
time. From 1830 to 1848, this palace had been the quiet resi- 
dence oi lyouis Philippe. During all that time France was 
tranquil and gave no sign to warn the king of approaching 
danger. As far as outward appearances indicated he was be- 
loved by the fickle French people. He delighted to promenade 
the streets in citizen's dress, with nothing to distinguish him 
from his subjects except his peculiarly benevolent face and un- 
assuming demeanor. On the night of February 23, 1848, 
vi^hile the king was enjoying a chat with some friends in the 
chamber of the palace now called " The King's Cabinet," the 
people of Paris were throwing up great barricades and preparing 
for a successful revolution. About 8 o'clock on the morning 
of the twenty-fourth, the king was for the first time warned of 
approaching danger. A feeble attempt was made to change 
the Ministry and concede to the popular demand for a dissolu- 
tion of the Chamber of Deputies, but it was too late. Soon 
after the unfortunate king was informed that his soldiers were 
fraternizing with the insurgents and that all was lost. The 
king supposing that his submission might appease the infuri- 
ated multitude and induce them to accept the Count of Paris 
as king, gave orders that no resistance should be made. In a 
few minutes the crowd penetrated the Court of the Palace, the 
king fled and the monarch}'- of 1830 was no more. The king 
with the queen and a few attendants passed up under cover of 
the southern wall of the Garden of the Tuilleries to the Place- 
de la Concorde ; he paused a moment at the spot where Louis 
XVI. had been beheaded about fifty-six years before for " op- 
posing the people." He at once retraced his steps to where a. 
small one-horse carriage was standing, which he immediately 
entered and in a gallop departed towards St. Cloud never to- 
enter Paris again. The Tuilleries then became the residence 
of the President and afterwards the Emperor Napoleon, where 
he still dwells in apparent safety. The chambers of the palace 
formerly occupied by King lyouis Philippe have been preserved 
very much as they were when he so unceremoniously left the 
palace. 



54 Geneva to Paris, 

The Emperor spares neither labor nor expense to please 
and gratify his people. They ma}' enjoy every pleasure with 
the single exception of that most exquisitely delightful of all 
American enjoyments, the privilege of talking politics. It is 
a thing interdicted and must not even be thought of. He 
builds them elegant opera houses and theatres, as well as 
splendid churches. It is a mistake to suppose the French to 
be a nation of infidels. I found their churches about as well 
filled as those of lyondon. Infidelity was a fungus of the 
dark days of the revolution, just as a field of wheat may be 
blighted by the mildew of a foggy night, but it does not follow 
that every subsequent crop will be equally blasted. 

Were it not for my anxiety for home, I would like to spend 
at least a month in Paris, but I begin to be fatigued by the 
hardships of my rapid traveling, and will quit Europe in a few 
days for home. The life of a traveler is one of more than or- 
dinary labor, and if he would improve his hours, and hope to 
return to his home benefited in body and enlarged in mind, he 
must not waste his moments, neither must he indulge in the 
soft luxuries and enchanting allurements which constantly 
beckon him to forbidden pleasures. I^ike Ulysses, he must 
not trust to his own strength, but while sailing by the Siren 
Isles, he must lash himself to the mast, stop his ears, crowd 
the sails and bend the oars, until he is entirely out of reach of 
their bewitching songs. Those who suppose the pleasures of 
traveling can be enjoyed without its hardships, will be sadly 
undeceived before they have advanced far. There is, never- 
theless, something very invigorating in the constant change of 
climate and scenery, otherwise the repeated annoyances would 
be unendurable. The successful traveler must retire late and 
arise early, walk over cities and plains and climb mountains. 
To-night he may have a downy pillow for his head, to-morrow 
night a board, or the musty berth of a badly ventilated ship. 
With health and strength and not too much baggage^ the en- 
joyment, however, far exceeds the annoyance. 



On Ship Once More. 55 



XIV. 

On Ship Once More — Lonely Female Passengers — lyOVE 
ON THE Sea — ^Mrs. Studtgardt — Cocktail Club— A Ship 
IN Distress — Southern Men on the Ship. 

QUEENSTOWN, IRELAND, July, 1 873. 

With a fair wind and flowing sail, a smooth sea and 
sta,unch ship, we sailed from New York on the nineteenth, at 
2 P. M., and arrived at this port to-day at 7 P. M. A novice 
is very much surprised at the rapidity with which a cargo is 
received and discharged. The passengers with their baggage 
are not permitted to come on board before 11 A. M. The ship 
is advertised to sail at i P. M. ; there is always some delay 
and there are generally some passengers who arrive at the last 
moment. Just as the plank was half withdrawn, a lady with 
five great Saratoga trunks arrived ; one minute longer and she 
would have been left behind. Her excuse was that she hadn't 
time to fix her hair. The bustle of the embarkation is very 
amusing, officers yelling, crew swearing, steam whistling, pas- 
sengers out of breath and carriages coming in a gallop ; no 
time to dispute with Jehu, who is provokingly slow in getting 
out the baggage, and for his life can't make change for a five 
dollar bill which a passenger was fool enough to hand him. 
When the order comes for all but passengers to leave the ship 
a scene follows, of kissing, crying, embracing and sobbing,, 
which beggars all attempts at description. Of course every- 
body is interested in the tears of a pretty woman. I am not 
singular in this respect. I began at once to look for her ; she 
was sitting in the rear of the ship, her beautiful eyes in a flood 
of tears, her face buried in her handsome young husband's 
bosom who, for some unknown cause, at least unknown to me, 
was not to accompany her ; but little Charley, a bright-eyed 
boy of about six years, was to go with her in papa's stead. 
He evidently felt his responsibility as he strutted about the 
deck in his new sailor clothes, happy as a lord. For four 
days Charley's mother did little but sigh and gaze upon a 
miniature likeness, which at short intervals she drew from her 
heaving bosom. The intervals grew gradually and beautifully 
longer until about the fifth day out, when the sunshine from the 
face of a very handsome young Englishman began to dissipate 
from her fair countenance the sombre clouds of grief for the 
absent one. It was truly marvellous to observe with what 
disinterested anxiety he would inquire about little Charley's 
health ; how gently he would nurse, caress and pet him, and 
how sweetly Charley's mother would smile upon the polite 



56 On Ship Once Moke. 

and obliging young gentleman. The miniature of Charlej^'s 
papa appeared no more. A stranger to the first scenes of the 
voyage would have sworn they were lovers, and by ray soul, I 
believe they were ! " Faith,'* said an Irish gentleman from 
Cincinnati, who had left a young wife of thirty behind, "1 
begin to tremble for myself; I'm losing faith in the virtue of 
men, or the honesty of women.''' " O, 'tis nothing but a little 
amusement," said an elderly Scotch lady. True, thovight I, 
'tis nothing ; but 

"Is whispering nothing? 
Is leaning cheek to cheek? is meeting noses? 
Kissing with Inside lip? stopping the career 
Of laughter with a sigh ; (a note infallible 
Of breaking honesty) * * * * 

Skulking in corners? wishing clocks more swift? 
Hours, minutes ? noon, midnight? and all eyes blind 
With the pin and web, but their' s, theirs only 
That would, unseen, be wicked? is this notliing? 
Why then the world and all that's in It is nothiag, 

* * nor nothing have these nothings, 

If this be nothing." 

Mrs. Studtgardt was a buxom dame from Chicago of about 
forty summers. About the third day out she told me her 
name ; said that she was alone, and was on a visit to Germany 
to see her relatives. She was very desirous to be introduced 
to a handsome young German on board, because she said the 
poor fellow seemed so lonely ; she could speak German and 
she had no doubt that the charms of her conversation would 
relieve his apparent solitude. To get rid of her I effected an 
introduction, and it was very pleasant to see how happy I 
made them both. Of course I thought her a spinster, but to 
my unutterable grief, I learned just before we landed at 
Queenstown, that she was married, and had left Jake at home 
to attend the children while she visited the Vaterland. Upon 
informing my Irish friend of this painful news, he raised his 
pious eyes to heaven and exclaimed in apparent despair : " O, 
woman, thy name is frailty," and with a sigh kissed his wife's 
photograph. 

We had about one hundred cabin passengers on board and 
but little fun. The trip was to me a very tedious one, not 
even a storm to relieve the monotonj-, and with the exception 
of a moral story or chaste song, spiced now and then with a 
modest joke from the young gentlemen of the Cocktail Club, 
whose headquarters were the smoking room, there was little to 
laugh at during the entire voyage. 

On our seventh day out we had a genuine sensation . The 
full rigged British bark Silver Cloud, with all sail set, bore 
down straight across our bow. In a few minutes we observed 



Second Visit to Ireland. 57 

lief ensign at half mast, with the union down, an emblem of 
distress. In a moment all was excitement, the engines were 
stopped and life boats manned and despatched to the distressed 
ship. A boat was also sent from the bark ; they 'met about 
half way between the vessels within hailing distance. 
" What's the matter" shouted the Captain, throtigh his trum- 
pet. The response came : " Man very sick ; don't know how 
to treat him ; send your doctor." He was immediately sent, 
but soon returned and sent a large package of Cholera medi- 
cine to the bark. They had but six seamen and were of course 
greatly alarmed. I was standing near the captain when he 
received the response to his question. I went at once for- 
ward, but rumor had beaten me. I heard one passenger tell 
another that the cholera had killed all the ship's crew^ and 
that the captain and dog were all that were left to man the 
ship. It reminded me of the reliability of the war nevvs we 
used to receive in America. 

There were three Southern gentlemen passengers on the 
ship, from South Carolina, Alabama and lyouisiana. At first 
Ihey were very bitter in expressing their opinions about the 
government, but they soon grew more conservative. The 
gentleman from Alabama hoped only for a stable government 
when Grant should be King, at which remark the Englishmen 
present expressed great delight. Upon ascending to the deck 
to take our after dinner smoke, my South CaroHna friend gave 
my arm a quiet touch, and whispered in my ear, " Don't mind 
Alabama, he has suffered like myself ; however we may dif- 
fer at home, abroad we will be countrymen." That simple 
remark has made me that man's friend forever. I will go from 
here to lyimerick and from thence to Londonderry, where you 
may hear from me again. 



XV. 

Second Visit to iRfiLANo^-StREEt NoMBNCLAtURS in 
Cork— Scene in CouRt— Irish HosPitALitY=--A Yankee 
After a FoRtuNE-^^TnE City of the Vio^AtED Treaty 
— Cathedral of Limerick— Memento Mori—The Lost 
Bells— The Shannon— Mishap To an English TouRist 
=— The Coleen Bawn- — Kilrush— An Irish Fair aT 
Ennis — Pigs and Wit. 

Galway, Ireland, August^ 1873. 
This is my second visit to Ireland and I find it, if pos- 
sible, more beautiful than ever. I visited again the church 
of Shandon and paid the bell-ringer a shilling to play the old 



§8 Setcond Visit to Ireland. 



air,, " Shandon Balls." The bells are eight in number and 
have a very sweet tone. Each one is as large as the old State 
House bell at Philadelphia. We were under the surveillance 
of two policemen who dogged our heels to the very top of the 
tower, which is one hundred and twenty feet high. From the 
top of the tower the view of Cork is very fine. The whole 
town and many miles of the surrounding country lie at your 
feet. In Cork, like I^ondon, they never change the name of 
anything. Its street nomenclature is somewhat remarkable, 
such as Cat I^ane, Rag L-ane^ Cock-pit I^ane, etc. 

The courts were in session and I concluded to pay them a 
visit. The Judge's coach, with footman in livery and cock- 
aded coachman, surrounded by eight dragoons with drawn 
swords, came galloping down the street. Two dragoons went 
before, two behind and two on each side of the coach. When 
the coach stopped opposite the court house the dragoons 
formed in single file on the opposite side of the street with 
their horses' heads facing the court house, while two lines of 
soldiers were formed, making a passage between the lines 
from the coach to the court house door. Then the Sheriff in 
his gold lace uniform and hat in hand approached the coach 
door from which his L-ordship alighted arrayed in a flowing 
black robe and gray wig. The tipstaves walked before them 
backwards into the court house, while the dragoons blew a 
blast upon their trumpets. The same ceremony is alwa5^s en- 
acted upon the adjournment of the court. The court rooms 
are formed something like a funnel or inverted cone. The 
jury box is in reality a box about four by ten feet in which 
the jury are locked up, and is about six or seven feet above the 
level of the floor. The jury looked like twelve very wise owls 
in consultation over a dead horse. The witness had not a very 
strong voice and the Judge was a little deaf, so the counsellors 
set a chair on the table at which they were taking notes, and the 
witness was made to mount the table afud sit on the chair about 
three feet from the Judge's nose, with lawyers all around him. 

I spent a very pleasant evening with Mr. Welsh to whom 
I had been introduced by my Irish friend from Cincinnati. I 
enjoyed his hospitality very much. Mrs. Welsh's tea was 
only surpassed by her husband's punch. He is a true type of 
an Irish merchant, with good sense, good spirits, quick wit 
and a kind heart 

I met one of my fellow-passengers promenading upon the 
quay ; he was a regular Yankee, with blue swallow-tail coat 
and brass buttons, short waist and big collar. He wore an 
old-fashioned stovepipe hat, the brim of which rested on his 
nose ; a cigar was in his mouth and both hands well down in 
his pantaloons pockets. He had kept himself very quiet on 



Second Visit to Ireland. 55 



tlie sliip, and as I had not spoken to him before, I liai'led hini 
with a "good morning, sir." " How d'j^e doo ?" was the 
reply. I asked him if he was going to Dublin. As quick as 
lightning came the reply : *'Well, I rather guess that's the 
calculation, ' ' He was in search of a lawyer, and claimed to 
be heir to a fortune in Ireland of ^2,000,000, only $10,000,000. 
He had $4000 in his pocket to fee lawyers with, and he 
* ' Guessed that would fetch his fortune if anything on airth 
would." I felt sorry his estate was not in Philadelphia and 
I his lucky lawyer. 

From Cork I visited Limerick, the city of the violated 
treaty. It is a very old looking town, some parts of which 
are in complete ruins. It was once a royal city, enclosed by 
a stone wall of prodigious proportions and defended by a mag- 
nificent castle. The ashes of Munster's mighty kings repose 
in the old cathedral, but her strong walls are broken down 
and her mighty castle is in ruins. The marks of Cromwell's 
cannon are very distinct upon the castle walls. It was at one 
of the eastern gates where the women made a gallant fight 
and beat back the invading English with no other arms than 
stones in their stockings. In the year 1691, William III. be- 
sieged the city and was several times repelled with great 
slaughter by the Irish people, commanded by Sarsfield, Earl 
of lyUcan, who caused a large cannon to be mounted on the 
top of the steeple of the cathedral commanded by one of his 
best gunners and which did great havoc among the enemy. 
The place occupied by this gun was one hundred and twenty 
feet high, the steeple being of massive stone masonry. At 
last a chain-shot from one of the enemy's guns cut the gunner 
in two and silenced the gun. This shot is exhibited among 
the relics of the church. This cathedral is a very well-pre- 
served edifice. We find it referred to in history as early as 
the twelfth century . 

Among the tombs and monuments of the church, deeplj^ 
cut in black marble, is the following singular inscription, in 
English characters : — 

Memento Mory. 

Here lieth little Samuel 
Barinton that greate under 

Taker of famous citties— 

Clock and chime maker 
He made his one time goe 
Early and latter but now 
He is returned to god liis ere 
A.tor 

The 19 of november then he 
Scest an for his memory 
This here is pleast by his 
Son Ben, 1693. 



6(7 Second- Visit to; Ireland. 



From the steeple the view of the town and surrotmding 
eountry is most charming. The green fields of Erin, with the 
beautiful Shanrton,, the most magniEcent of Irish rivers, may 
be distinctly seen for twenty miles around. The population 
of lyimerick is about 46,000, and like that of most Irish cities, 
does not increase. The chime of eight very large bells is of 
great arLtiquity. They were bought from an old church in 
Italy. It is said an old Italian gentleman, who had never wan- 
dered outside of the range of the bells, when he awoke and 
missed their music upon the morning of their removal, became 
very melancholy, and after months of disconsolate mourning, 
he left Italy in search of his lost bells. After years of wander- 
ing he sailed up the Shannon, and as he approached the city 
on a bright Sunday morning in May, he recognized the sound 
of his long-lost Dells and, as was supposed by his attendants, 
he swooned away overpowered with delight, but when they 
came to more closely examine, they found he was dead. 

The Shannon is the only river in Ireland worthy of 
the name. It is 240 miles long and runs through ten coun- 
ties ; at some places it is very narrow, at others it expands 
into a glassy lake several miles wide. The shores on both 
sides are in the highest state of cultivation, and the scenery 
most enchanting ; studded with old ruined castles and orna-. 
mented with splendid new ones. I sailed for eighty miles 
down the river from lyimerick to Kilrush. The sun was shin- 
ing splendidly over the boat, but we could see refreshing 
showers, for which Ireland is so noted, falling in five different 
directions. The river at Tarbet is about nine miles wide and 
was as rough as the Atlantic. An English tourist lost his hat 
and came near falling overboard ; he was very much fright- 
ened. " What /''' said he " hafter traveling hall hover the 
hearth ham hi to be drowned hat last hin the blasted Shannon f" 
" Holy mother," said an Irish patriot, "shure and you might 
be drowned in a much more ignoble stream. ' ' 

Our boat passed the dark and stormy waters, where the 
Coleen Bawn was drowned by the foster brother of her lover. 
On the shore may be seen the ruined church where she was 
buried. On landing at Kilrush I learned that there was to be 
a great fair held at Ennis, the assize town of county Clare. 
As I had never seen a genuine Irish fair, I determined even at 
the expense of a twenty mile ride in a jaunting car, to visit 
it. I did not grudge the ride, as it took me through some of 
the richest and best cultivated lands I had ever looked upon. 
I saw at Ennis, sheep which sold for ;i^3.io each, which is 
about equal to $17.50 in American gold. I made my dinner 
on a mutton chop, as large as an ordinary sirloin steak, and 
^vUVinl as tender and sweet as a three months' old lamb. 



Second Visit to Ireland. 6i 



Ennis is a very queer looking old town. The river Fur- 
gus runs through it and supplies it with all its water. At one 
place you may see a dozen old cro nes in the water up to their 
knees, washing foul linen, hard by a hostler or peasant boy 
watering his sheep and cows, or washing his horses, and close 
by a kitchen maid drawing a supply of the same water for 
cooking and drinking. The town was crowded to overflowing 
with peasants, pigs, sheep, cows and horses. 

A bed in a hotel could not be obtained at any price. I 
gave an old woman, with a bushy head of red hair, five shill- 
ings for a bed, made on an old settee, in a barn-like chamber, 
over a saddler's shop and was glad to get it. Persons were 
there from England, Scotland and all parts of Ireland to buy 
stock. The fair opened at 4 o'clock in the morning, and pre- 
sented a scene which must be witnessed to be comprehended. 
It had rained all night ; the fair grounds consisted of the open 
lots and streets of the town south of the Furgus. This is the 
old part of Ennis, where the best street is not over fifteen feet 
in width. Amid the mud, manure and puddles of foul water, 
the enormous crowd of men and animals surged, bartered, 
swore and drank whisky, while the pigs kept up a concert of 
squealing, relieved now and then by bellowing of bulls and 
bleating of sheep. The peasantry were there, male and 
female, in their Sunday clothes. The men in corduroy 
breeches, blue woolen stockings and heavy soled shoes. Their 
coats were mostly of homemade gray cloth, with very long 
tails and enormous collars. The girls looked better than the 
men ; they wore short petticoats, which exhibited to great 
advantage their well developed limbs. 

Everybody seemed excited ; most of the bargains were 
made in a loud and boisterous manner, I expected every 
moment to see a row, but in this I was disappointed, the reason 
was quite obvious ; her Majesty's constabulary were there in 
force. The most amusement was found in the pig department. 
Most of the peasants owned but a single pig, which would be 
held by it* proprietor by a rope of grass around its hind leg. 
Some of the pigs were in donkey carts and seemed quite con- 
tented beside the young woman who drove the cart. The air 
was full of true Irish wit which seemed to bubble out like 
water from a spring. The following is a fair sample. An 
English swell with some lady friends were looking at the fair, 
and to amuse the girls he pretended to a peasant that he 
wished to buy his pig. Winking at the girls he inquired its 
price. " Sure," said paddy, " offer me his value and I'll soon 
tell ye his price, for there's not a man in all Clare I'd rather 
sell him to than yer honor, for I know you'd treat him well, 
seeing ye look so much alike." My friend from Cincinnati, 



*62 Galway to Londonderry, 



says this wit was borrowed from Glover who gives a scene 
very much like it. The bystanders laughed, the swell 
sneaked off, but paddy never as much as grinned ; he only 
gave a half wink, and stood scratching his bushy head. 

The fair broke up in the afternoon amid the wildest scenes 
of confusion, the roads leading out of Knnis were crowded 
with the returning peasantry, and not caring to prolong my 
stay, I left for Galway which can only be reached from here 
by a circuitous route of about 200 miles. 



XVI. 

Galway — Athenrey — Bally-David Castle — Spanish 
Costumes and Customs — Empty Docks and Store- 
houses — lyYNCH Castle and Lynch I^aw — King of the 
Claddagh — Londonderry — The Curse of Cromwall 
■ — Siege of Derry— A Slow Place for Business — 
Port Rush Bathing Scenes. 

Londonderry, August, 1873. 
From Knnis on my way to Galway, I stopped at Athenrey,. 
which in English means the King' s Ford. I never saw such 
a stony country. All the fences are built with stone, and the 
fields are full of large piles of them, resembling at a short 
distance, cocks of hay. We passed several old ruined castles, 
which are so thick in this part of Ireland that they excite but 
little interest in the traveler and none in the inhabitants. At 
Athenrey there is a very well preserved old ruin, known as 
Bally-David Castle. The town is very ancient, the walls, 
castle, convent and abbey are all in ruins. A battle was 
fought here in 1315, in which the Irish were defeated. From 
Athenrey the face of the country improves very much, but I 
was greatly disappointed with Galway. I expected to find a 
thriving town, instead of which it proved one of the sleepiest 
places I have ever visited. It requires an hour's notice to 
procure, the simplest meal. There is but one barber in the 
town, and he don't shave, but makes his living at hair cutting 
at three pence a head. The citizens have all a foreign air, 
and one seems surprised to hear them speak English. They 
dress like Spaniards, and it is said have Spanish manners, 
which is accounted for from the fact that the town was once a 
Spanish settlement and had a great Spanish trade. The men 
wear red vests and short Spanish cloaks lined with red, while 
the ladies adorn themselves with Spanish head dresses, and 
wear short red petticoats. When walking in the streets they 



Galway to Londonderry. 63 

wear a kind of Spanish mantle which entirely covers the head, 
falls in graceful folds over the shoulders, and is clasped tightly 
by the hand under the chin. The poor as well as the rich 
dress in this way. The houses are built like those in Zara- 
gosa and other Spanish towns. They are of stone, very large, 
without any cornice to the roofs, with immense gable ends 
facing the streets, many of which are without sidewalks. 
The entrance to the dwellings is b}^ a large arched way with- 
out doors, but closed at night by an iron gate ; the doors to 
the houses are from the inside of the arched way. 

Galway has been a very rich town ; the evidences and 
remains of immense wealth are to be found all over it. The 
docks are like those of Liverpool, and must have cost an enorm- 
ous sum to build them. It also contains great storehouses and 
splendid quays, but her docks are entirely deserted, her store- 
houses all empty and in ruins, her quays only occupied by 
miserable fishermen, and her fine old mansions, where wealth 
and luxury once abounded, are now the habitations of vice 
and poverty. lyike a poor and decayed old gentleman who has 
seen better days, the town appears to be arrayed in the cast-oif 
garments of happier times, but withal there is a dignity in its 
demeanor, even in its desolate and distressed condition, which 
awakes pity and demands respect. The old Lynch Castle still 
stands, but the abbey is in ruins. The castle is square and 
heavy-looking ; it is profusely ornamented, and the balustrade 
decorated with the heads of mythical animals. It was from 
the window of this castle that James Lynch Fitz-Stephen, who 
was Mayor in 1493, hung his own son. He had sent his son 
to Spain on business ; while returning the son conspired with 
the crew, murdered the captain, and seized the ship and cargo. 
One of the party discovered the horrid business to the Ma5'or, 
He tried his son, and as he was found guilty, he condemned 
him to death. It was thought that as the condemned was an 
only son the Mayor would not execute the sentence. All his 
relatives interceded for the pardon of the youth. The father 
fixed a day to announce his determination, and early on the 
morning of the time appointed the son was found hanging by 
the neck out of one of the windows of his father's house. 
Some suppose that this was the origin of our word ' 'lynch-law. ' ' 

The lower part of the town is called the Claddagh. It is 
a miserable conglomeration of one-story hovels, inhabited by 
about 5000 sturdy fishermen. They have their own laws and 
customs, and are looked upon by the townspeople as an inferior 
race. They have a head chief, whose boat bears a white flag, 
who is called the ' ' King of Claddagh " ; he decide all mat- 
ters of litigation among the tribe. Among their customs is 
the marriage gift of a boat by the bride's father upon her 



^64 GalWay to LoNDoxDEkkV- 

wedding day, and the marriage ring is an heir-loom passing from 
the mother to her daughter from generation to generation. 
They seldom marry with the townspeople, whom they in turn 
consider interlopers and inferior to the Claddagh. 

I left Gal way at 11 A. M., and arrived in Londonderry 
about II P. M. of the same day. The country from Galway 
to Derry is very beautiful, rich, rolling and in some parts 
almost mountainous. The fields which are very small and 
irregular in shape, present a most pleasing prospect to the eye. 
The shades of green are as various as the fields ; from the 
deepest hue to the lightest shade. 

I find lyondonderry, or Derry as it is here called, a very 
remarkable town, containing many objects of deep interest to 
the traveler. 

On my way to Derry I heard a peculiar Irish curse ^ which 
I had never before heard. There was in our compartment a 
young swell who, from the time he entered the car, did nothing 
but smoke cigars and tell obscene stories to the great disgust 
of a very pious-looking fellow passenger. Upon stopping at 
one of the stations a priest was about entering our compart- 
ment, when our pious friend with a look of deep concern, 
ejaculated as he jumped from the car: "May the curse oi 
Cromwell be on you, ye blackguard." Then addressing the 
priest, he exclaimed : " Holy father, don't enter the car of 
ye'U be stifled with smoke and horrified by the corrupt con- 
versation . ' ' 

My first day in Derry was Sunday, and like a good christ- 
ian, I went to church in the cathedral, by which I killed two 
birds with one stone : Said my prayers and got to see the in- 
terior of the old church ; for it being a Protestant church, is 
somewhat difficult of access on week-day. The Catholic 
churches are always open. They afford convenient resting 
places for the weary traveler ; and while he often only enters 
to gaze upon the beautiful paintings and noble architecture, 
he seldom leaves without a feeling of reverence and religious 
awe. The Cathedral of Derry was built in 1633. It is a fine 
old building and remarkably well preserved. I copied the 
following from an old black marble slab in the vestibule :=-= 

"Alio. Do-. 1633, Car. Regis 9. 

If stones coulde speake 
Then Loladons prayse 
Shoulde sound who 
Built this church and 
Cittie from the grounde." 

The wails of the city are in perfect order ; they are from 
fifteen to fifty feet wide and form a very pleasant promenade 
around the city ; of course they would afford no defence against 



Galway to Londonderry. 65 

modern artillerj'. The city is located on the west side of the 
river Foyle, about forty miles from the sea. Derry in the Irish 
tongue means " thick wood. " The city \^as built by the citi- 
zens of lyondon during the reign of James I. and is remarkable 
for the sieges it has withstood. The appearance of the town 
from the opposite side of the river is very picturesque. Its 
population is about 20,000. The monument erected to the 
memory of Rev. George Walker, in 1828, is one of the most 
interesting objects in the city. It is a very handsome Doric 
column surmounted by his statue. 

The people of Derrj^ never weary in recounting the inci- 
dents of the last siege. They tell of a letter which was 
dropped at Dumbartin, county Down, where the Earl of Mount 
Alexander resided, informing him that all the Protestants of 
Derry, men, women and children, were to be massacred on the 
■9th of December, 1688; of the wild alarm with which the 
whole town was seized; how in the confusion which followed, 
some apprentice boj^s muttered something about shutting the 
gates; how the authorities of the city vacillated between hope 
and fear, until some Irish troops appeared on the opposite side 
of the river and sent their officers over to take possession of 
the town in the name of King James, v/hen some nine of the 
apprentice boys ran to the main guard and seized the keys just 
as he, by order of the Mayor, was about delivering them to 
the enemy and when I^ord Antrim's soldiers were within 60 
yards of the city gate. They also tell with great particularity 
how, during the siege which followed and which lasted 105 
days, the people suffered from starvation, when a mouse sold 
for six pence, a rat for two shillings and a morsel of horse 
pudding for five shillings. They point out the place where the 
besiegers had thrown a boom across the river to prevent pro- 
visions from coming to their relief by water. How the boom 
was broken by a provision ship, which from the violence of 
the shock rebounded and went ashore on the enem^^'s side of 
the river, and how just as the enemy in great joy were about 
boarding her she fired a broadside into them, the shock of 
which extricated her from her perilous position, when she 
floated again into deep waters and relieved the city after 2300 
of the citizens had died of hunger; all of which must be taken 
cum grano sails. 

I have no doubt the people of Derrj^ were very brave, but 
they were somewhat slow in preparing for their defence, and 
from all I could see, the present inhabitants in this respect are 
worth}^ sons of their tardj^ sires, for I went to a bookstore to 
buy a map of the city at 9.30 A. M. on Monday morning, and 
was coolly informed by a boy in attendance, that they did not 
open the store for the sale of goods until 10 A. M. I had a 



55 D'erry tq Hamtburgt^ 



letter of introduction to an attorney of the city,, and' walked 
from the bookstore to his offics; it too was shut, and on inquiry 
I was informed that the lawyers did not open their offices until. 
ID A. M. So I leftDerry in disgust and went to. Port Rusk 
to treat my eyes with a glance at the beauties of Erin in their 
bathing costumes,, a la chemise, which when wet exhibited in 
great perfection the natural outlines of their angelic forms.. 
The men go in a la nalurel. 

I will sail to-morrow for lyiverpool aiud expect a splendid- 
view of the entire northern coast of Ireland. From Liverpool 
I will go by rail to Hull and from thence by sea to Hamburg.. 



XVII. 



Derrv t'o Hamtbukg— Ditnluce Castle— a Rugged Coast" 
— Manchester from the Cars — Leeds — Hull — Eng- 
lish Views of Slavery in 1834 and 1864 — A Clever 
Fellow m England — Thunder Storm in Hamburg — 
Loneliness in a Crowd — A Funeral— On to Berlin. 

Hamburg, August, 1873, 
I sailed from Derry for Liverpool on the morning of the 
5th inst. The weather was delightful and the sky remarkably 
clear for this climate. The river Foyle is ten hundred and 
sixty-eight feet wide and forty-three feet deep opposite Derry. 
The bold shore and cheerful rural scenery, with the mountain 
ranges in the back ground, present a charming picture in 
looking upon which the eye never wearies. Our ship hugged 
the entire north coast of Ireland so very closely, that the sheep 
could be seen with the naked eye grazing in the green fields, 
and all the little villages and hamlets from which the blue 
smoke at eventide so gracefully curled, were plainly visible, 
adding essentially to the beauty of the picture. The old cas- 
tle of Dunluce, perched like a hoary sentinel upon its ocean- 
beaten rock, could be seen in its minutest details. It stands 
upon the summit of a perpendicular rock, 1000 feet above the 
sea, The entire surface of the rock is occupied by the castle 
walls, which are in appearance but a continuation of the per- 
pendicular sides of the rock. The castle must have been ab- 
solutely inaccessible, except by the drawbridge across the 
yawning chasm. This castle was the scene of a most villain- 
ous act of treachery in 1642. General Munroe visited it as 
the guest of the Earl of Antrim and was honored with a 
splendid entertainment. Munroe took advantage of his host's 



Dert^y to Hamburg. '67 

Thospitality, seized his person and his castle, and conveyed the 
3arl a prisoner to the castle of Carrickfergus. 

We passed between the coast and Rathlin island, upon 
which many fine ships have been wrecked. This coast is very 
dangerous in rough weather. A ship-wrecked crew would not 
.have the slightest chance of escape by the shore, as it is for 
many miles a rugged and precipitous rock, rising almost per- 
pendicularly several hundred feet above the surface of the sea., 
the terrible roar of which can be heard for many miles as it 
"dashes against the rocky coast and seems, even incalm weather, 
to lash itself into an uncontrollable fury. We passed so near . 
the causeway^ that the peculiar formation of the tagaltic 
rocks, with their five and six-sided columns could almost be 
counted- So clear was the atmosphere that the coast of Scot- 
land could be seen across the channel without the aid of a 
.glass. We lost sight of Ireland about sun-set, passed the Isle 
of Man during the night, and sighted the Welsh mountains 
.about 7 A, M. the next morning, arriving at I^iverpool about 
9 A. M, Not caring to tarry in -Liverpool, as I had seen it 
twice before, I took the 11 A. M, train for Hull, which is 
mearly due east upon the other side of the island, I passed 
through the city of Manchester and formed a very contempt- 
ible opinion of the town. It is hardly fair, however, to judge 
a city by its appearance from a railway car. It was black 
with the smoke of ten thousand enormous chimneys, which 
;seemed to rival each other in belching forth the blackest kind 
of smoke; withal the houses are built of sombre gray and very 
coarse brick and are covered with red tile, or heavy slate, very 
rough and ugly. The homeliness of the town was, however, 
greatly relieved by the busy hum of machinery and the active 
industry of its inhabitants, 

I stopped two hours at I^eds and found it a very import- 
ant and thriving town. The business part of the city is al- 
.most as smoky as Manchester, and is built of the same uglj' 
gray brick, but the residences of the better classes are very 
handsome and are built of square dressed stone, which is 
found in great abundance in this vicinity. It is very easily 
dressed, as it comes from the quarries in great flat flakes and 
naturally breaks square. The only really handsdme women I 
saw in Kngland were here. The younger ones had a very fresh 
and rosy look, but the more elderly had a rather heavy and 
coarse appearance. After all our American ladies are the 
handsomest women in the world at forty. It is the age at 
which a woman should be in her prime, yet here at that age 
they all look like men dressed in feminine attire. 

I arrived at Hull about 7 P. M. and was very agreeably 
disappointed with the place. I found it the third cit)^ in the 



Dekry to Hamburg. 



kingdom, having a commercial importance only equalled by 
Ivondon and Liverpool. It stands upon the most noble of Eng- 
lish rivers; its streets are clean and well paved, and its docks 
are truly wonderful works. It is situated at the point where 
the river Hull faV.s into the Humber, twenty-two miles from 
sea. The country around the town is very flat, hence its ex- 
tent cannot be judged of from a distant view. The old part 
of the town is very primitive in appearance, with the same 
narrow streets and fantastic style of architecture found in all 
old English towns. The new part of the city is really beauti- 
ful, the better class of buildings being constructed of the same 
kind of mellow colored stone of which Paris is built. The 
history oi the town dates back about 700 years; its present 
population is about 125,000. It was the birthplace of William 
Wilberforce, the great English abolitionist. It contains a 
splendid monument, with the statue of Wilberforce upon its 
top. The base of the monument contains this inscription: 

•'Negro slavery abolished, 1st Aug., 1834." 

The wicked thought would intrude itself upon my mind 
that if the Southern Confederacy had been, as the English 
people freely confess they hoped it would be, a success, Hull 
might have had another monument equally as conspicuous, 
with the statue of Alexander H. Stevens or Mr. Jeff. Davis 
upon its top, and the inscription upon its base : ' ' Negro slavery 
re-established, ist Aug., 78^5." I suppose it is uncharitable 
to think of such things, especially as the English people now 
seem wonderfully kind and appear to have a true and devoted 
attachment to their American cousins. They say we managed 
the Alabama claims with great cleverness. Clever xs a great 
word here ; they never say one is skillful, adroit, intelligent 
or smart, but that he's verj^ clever. They apply the word 
altogether to the intellectual, rather than to the social qualities 
as with us. From Hull regular lines of steamers sail to all 
parts of the earth ; I never saw so many ships in any one place 
as are here collected. 

I embarked from its port in the good ship Fairy for Ham- 
burg, on Wednesday night and reached that city this morning 
at daybreak, being two days and a half making the vo3'age. 
I retired to my berth about 11 o'clock P. M , and was soon 
dreaming of home, listening to the prattle of sweet little voices 
and enjoying the smile of a still sweeter face, when suddenlj' 
a lurid flash and deafening peal of thunder aroused me from 
my slumber, scattered all my happy dreams and awoke me to 
realize that I was thousands of miles away, a stranger in a 
strange land. I heard a great noise upon the deck, and a con- 
fusion of tongues worse, if possible, than the jargon of Babel. 
My first thought was that the boiler had burst and we were in 



Derry to Hamburg. 69 

— no matter where. I looked out the port hole of my state 
room and discovered it was daylight and that our ship was 
safely moored in some strange harbor, with old warehouses 
and wharves around us, in a thunder storm. I felt relieved 
when I saw the rain, for I knew it never rained in the place 
where I at first thought we were. " Don't be alarmed, sir," 
said the steward, " we're safe at Hamburg." 

The sun rises about six hours sooner here than it does in 
Philadelphia. The storm was soon over, and when I saw the 
sun rise I felt that his was the only familiar face I could look 
upon. One who has never realized the loneliness of suddenly 
finding himself transplanted from a country where every word 
is clearly comprehended and every shade of thought perfectly 
expressed, to a land where every word is but gibberish and 
every look a vacant meaningless stare ; where one neither com- 
prehends the language nor is understood when he speaks, can 
not conceive or form any clear idea of the feeling of despair 
which for a moment overcomes the heart. To suddenly awake 
and find you had lost both heaiing and speech would give some 
idea of the situation of your humble servant in Hamburg. 

Everything here is different from England or America ; 
the civilization, manners, dress and money, even the dogs bark 
in Dutch. I offered a porter a shilling to carry my luggage to 
a neighboring hotel ; he shook his head and said " nine-nine y 
What, thought I, nine shillings for carrying a carpet bag a 
few short squares ? I'll carry it myself first. The steward 
laughed and explained that 7iine wdiS no; he asked him in 
IJutch how much he would carry the luggage for ; the rascal 
wanted fiftee^i schellings. I was about toddling off" with my 
own luggage, when the steward explained that a schelling in- 
Dutch was less than a penny in English money, whereupon, 
my wrath subsided and the porter soon conducted me safely 
to my hotel. 

It is truly wonderful with what facilitj' one accommodates 
himself to circumstances. After a few hours spent in wander- 
ing about the town I began to feel quite at home. True, it 
required a little cheek, but every traveler must have a good 
supply of that commodity or he had better stay at home. I 
could call for my bier and cigar en, and enjoy mj^self in " mine 
inn ' ' as comfortably as any other Dutchman. Even the names 
on the signs seemed familiar ; such for instance as Carl 
Sc/mrs, Tobacke und Cigare?i Fabrick ; Johann Freiderick 
Hartranft, Haarschneiden U7id Coffeuric — etc., etc. (i) I met 

(I) Time has destroyed the point in the intended play upon the names of 
Carl Schurz and J. F. Hartrauft. When the letter was written one was a leader 
in the Senate, the o her Governor of Pennsylvania. Their namesakes iu Ham- 
burg were tol)acconists and barbers.— "There is nothing in the name." 

T. J. C. (1892), 



70 Derky to Hamburg. 

a funeral coming down the street ; the hearse was drawn by a 
pair of black horses, each horse led by a man, and both men 
and horses dressed in long black robes ; the hearse was fol- 
lowed by eight hi7ed mourners, also arrayed in long black 
robes ; these were followed by three carriages, conveying the 
priests and family of the deceased. 

The hotel at which I am stopping is one of the best in the 
city, very large, and beautifully situated upon the lake in the 
centre of the town. In England and Ireland they gave us no 
napkins at meals ; here they are as large as table-cloths. 
When spread out on the lap both ends hang on the floor and 
cover even the feet, 

The omnibuses and street railway cars are two stories high 
and look very odd. The third class cars on the railroads are 
also in some instances two stories high. It is no uncommon 
sight to see women with wooden yokes fitted to the back of the 
neck and resting upon the shoulders, with enormous baskets 
hanging at each end of the yoke, filled with vegetables, which 
they peddle about the streets, or with buckets filled with water 
for household purposes, and which they carry from one end of 
the town to the other. 

The city of Hamburg is really a very interesting town. 
It was founded by Charlemagne, A. D. 803, and has houses 
now standing in the ancient part of the city one thousand years 
old. They resemble those of Rotterdam, and lean every way, 
and are twisted in various shapes. The streets of the old part 
are narrow and crooked ; there are no sidewalks ; the houses, 
some of which are six stories high, project at each story from 
one to two feet over the lower stories into the street. The 
city is situated on the river Elbe, about sixty miles from its 
mouth. It has a population of about 225,000. Upwards of 
five thousand sea-going vessels annually enter and quit its 
harbor. It was visited in 1842 with a fearful conflagration 
which destroyed about a fourth payt of the city, which has 
■been entirely rebuilt with very handsome modern buildings. 
The new part of the town is not surpassed by any city in 
Europe. The gardens, groves and boulevards, lakes and 
promenades of Hamburg, are constructed and kept up on a 
.gigantic scale. A beautiful lake, of over a mile in circumfer- 
ence, is situated in the centre of the city, I leave here to- 
morrow for Berlin. 



Hamburg to Dresden. jt 



XVIII. 

Hamburg to Dresden — More about Hamburg — Contrast 
Between New and Old Cities— Protestant and Cath- 
olic Churches — Sunday in Europe — ^Berlin— The King 
AND His Cabmen — Unter den I^inden — Monument of 
Victory — Dresden Art Gallery — Madonna di Sisto 
— Immodest Paintings — The Green Vault — An Adven- 
ture IN THE Zoo. 

Dresden, August, 1873. 
After taking another stroll through Hamburg, I was com- 
pelled to modify my views of the town. The old fortifications 
have been destroyed and their places converted into beautiful 
parks and gardens. The entire suburbs somewhat resemble 
Fairmount Park at Philadelphia, on a small scale, with the 
city in the centre of the park. 

There are certain general features common to all European- 
towns, They all have an old and a new quarter ; they are all 
comparatively finished, having no scattered suburbs with brick 
yards and town lots for sale. On emerging from the thickly- 
populated and closely-built streets, you at once enter the cul- 
tivated fields or beautiful gardens. They are all built in the 
form of an irregular circle, with wide avenues, like bent 
hoops, enclosing the town. These avenues follow to a certain 
extent, the course of the old city walls, and many of the best 
streets now occupy the place of the removed bulwarks. The 
old part of every town has crooked, narrow, and very irregular 
cross streets, without sidewalks, which cut at various angles 
the circular streets. They all have their museums of an- 
tiquity and art, and their old cathedrals, and after you have 
seen one you have seen all, especially after having visited 
Westminster Abbey, the old Cathedral at Cologne, and Notre 
Dame at Paris, the Douvre and British Museum. I have 
become really weary in wandering through museums and visit- 
ing churches, except, of course, for rest and devotion. 

The traveler abroad must remark the singular contrast 
between the Protestant and Catholic churches. The former are 
always shut except during service, and if you wish to see them,, 
the sexton must be found and feed for the favor ; when entered, 
they are cold, damp and unhealthy resting places. On the 
other hand, the Catholic cathedrals are always open, well ven- 
tilated, clean and highly ornamented, affording to the weary 
sojourner a refreshing rest, and seldom failing to inspire him 
with feelings of gratitude and devotion. 



72 Hamburg to Dresden. 

The general face of the country, farms, villages and modes 
of country life have also certain general features of resem- 
blance. There are no fences ; the earth is cultivated in 
patches ; the cattle are either watched by herdsmen or tethered. 
The peasant women all work in the fields, make hay, mow, 
spread manure and plov/, often with a bull in rustic harness, 
while the implements of farming are of the rudest, primitive 
kind. The peasant women generally go bareheaded as well 
as barefooted, but when they do wear shoes they are either all 
of wood or have wooden soles, while their hats, when they 
have any, resemble a tin wash basin upside down, the rim as- 
sisting to balance the burdens they bear upon their heads. 

The farm lands of the continent, as a rule, are not as fer- 
tile as those of England, Ireland or America, nor are they as 
well cultivated. The entire country irom Hamburg to Berlin 
is a flat, sandy plain, with no timber, except such as may be 
seen among the sands of New Jersey. The villages and country 
towns are composed of squalid one -story buildings, covered with 
thatched straw or coarse red tile. Barns are unknown in Ger- 
many, and but few of the modern improvements in farming have 
been introduced. The government of the German Empire 
seems to have devoted all its energies to the art of war ; the cities 
are crowded with soldiers, well dressed, armed and equipped. 

Sunday is never observed as with us in x\merica. The 
same labor goes on in the field and the stores and markets are 
all open in the cities. I inquired of the waiter at my hotel in 
Hamburg if the trains ran on Sunday. He gave me a look of 
perfect amazement as he replied, " Certainly sir ; why not ? 
It is only a holiday for the rich ; not for poor men or horses." 

The military spirit is so rampant in Prussia that even the 
inferior officers on the railway give their superiors the military 
salute as they pass. Upon my arrival at Berlin, although 
hundreds of cabmen were in waiting, none of them moved 
from their seats, or made the slightest effort to obtain a pas- 
senger. I endeavored by signs to induce one to take me to 
the Hotel de Metropole, but he flatly refused without an order 
from the officer in charge of the station. I could not find a 
person who could speak either English or French. I saw an 
omnibus a short distance off marked Hotel de Saxe, so without 
knowing where it would take me, I jumped in and soon found 
m3^self in a very good commercial hotel where one of the 
waiters spoke a little English. I learned from him that King 
William became disgusted with his noisy cabmen, and ordained 
by la-v that they should not take a passenger, move from their 
seats or open their mouths, until called by one of his officers 
at the station, who should furnish to every decent applicant 
a ticket with the number of the cab upon it. 



Hamburg to Dresden. 73 

Berlin, the capital of Germany, is situated on a flat, sandy 
plain, about the centre of the empire ; its population is 830,000, 
of which 25,000 is its garrison of soldiers. The river Spree 
runs through the town ; it is no larger than Chester creek at 
Chester. The waiter at the hotel made a very bad pun upon 
the name of the river. " Why," said he, '" is Berlin such a 
jolly town ?" I gave it up. "Because 'tis always on the 
same old Spree.'' The old part of the city is just like all 
other old European towns. Its markets are just what might 
have been seen twenty-five years ago at Market Street, Phila- 
delphia, from the wharf up to Third Street, on market days ; 
they are held here in the open squares, each person bringing 
his own booth or shed. They present a very active scene of 
old-fashioned animation. 

The new part of Berlin is undoubtedly very handsome, and 
at a first glance quite imposing and grand in appearance, but 
when you come to a closer inspection, you discover all the ap- 
parently majestic stone buildings ornamented with finely 
chiseled statuary, are but plastered brick, painted in imitation 
of the stone of which Paris is built. The chief street is the 
Ivinden, upon which the most splendid edifices are erected ; it 
is about 130 feet wide and a mile long, and is adorned with 
several rows of linden trees, colossal bronze statues, monu- 
ments, palaces and gigantic public buildings. Some have 
compared Berlin with Paris, but it will not bear it. As well 
might Hercules be compared with Adonis ; both have their 
superior points. In Berlin everything looks heavy and im- 
perial, even the king assumes to frown like Jove, while in 
Paris all is light, air}^ and beautiful, everj^body feels gajs and 
even Napoleon III. looked like a dancing master. 

The whole population of Berlin dwell in only 15,000 pri- 
vate houses. In the twelfth century it was a village; it is first 
mentioned in history in 1244. The house of Hohenzollern be- 
came masters of the place about 141 1. In 1539 the townspeo- 
ple embraced the reformed faith, and Berlin as well as all 
Prussia has since been strongly Protestant. At the death of 
Frederick the Great it had a population of 172,000, and has 
recently rapidly increased in prosperity, and is now the capital 
of the great German empire. One ot the finest buildings in the 
city is the old Museum; it is in the Greek style, with eighteen 
Ionic columns; its front is about 300 feet. It is very elaborately 
adorned with colossal groups in bronze, and marble statues. 
The most striking feature of the whole is a very beautiful 
fresco by Schinkel, which covers the entire front wall under 
the portico, representing the progress of civilization and the 
development of the world. The figures are all very large and 
exquisitely colored. From the square in front, they stand out 



74 Hamburg to Dresden. 



very boldly and never fail to im^Dress the mind with an emotion 
of wonder and delight. 

The Kmperor has expended some of his French treasure 
in the erection of a monument something after the pattern of 
the Colomie Vendome lately destroyed at Paris. It has just 
been completed and is undoubtedly a very fine work. It is one 
hundred and ninety feet high, adorned with reliefs commemo- 
rating the Great German victories over the French in 1871. A 
golden statue of victory , forty-two feet high, crowns the column. 

Upon the whole, Berlin is well worthy of a visit, and will 
richly repay the time expended in exploring its many beauties ; 
the only wonder to me was how so much wealth could be ex- 
tracted from such a miserable, flat and unsightly country as 
surrounds it. From the great profusion of gigantic bronze 
statues with which every vacant place is embellished, one 
would almost suppose oid Vulcan had had his workshop here 
and had been casting models for the gods. A great feature of 
Berlin's beauty is the close proximity of all her grand public 
buildings, of which there are about seven hundred. 

Dresden lies due south of Berlin, and is reached in about 
five hours by rail. The general appearance of the country does 
not improve unti) within a few miles of the town when the 
Jersey-like look of the land begins to put on more of a Penn- 
sylvania appearance. 

The city of Dresden in its general appearance is like Ber- 
lin ; the houses are of the same order of architecture, they are 
mostly of brick, covered with cement and painted a mellow 
cream color. It is full of English and American residents, 
who have taken up their abode here because of its great edu- 
cational advantages ; it is said to have the best schools in the 
world. Its principal attraction to travellers is its world re- 
nowned Picture Gallery. It also contains a very rich museum 
of coins, old gold and silver plate, the crown jewels of the 
King of Saxony, of which country it was until recently the 
capital, and some of the finest statuary in ivory executed by 
Michael Angelo. The gem of the collection of painting is 
Raphael s Sistine Madonna. It cost in 1753, $35,000 in gold, 
and is now almost priceless ; persons come from all parts of 
the world to look at it. I do not assume to be a connoisseur in 
paintings, but it seemed to me that there were other pictures 
in the gallery as meritorious as the Madonna. The color is 
as bright and as delicately shaded to day as when it received 
its last touch from the hand of Raphael, but the drawing is 
certainly no better than some modern works. There are 
paintings in conspicuous positions in this gallery that would 
be veiled in England or America, not that they are without 
merit or beauty, but because of the peculiar subjects they 



Hamburg to Dresden. 75 

illustrate. As the details of some tragedies will not bear pub- 
lication, much less should they be presented in all their naked- 
ness on canvas. The rape of I^ucretia, and I^eda and the 
Swan, are painted with rather too much perfection for the 
common eye. The same may be said of some of the statuary, 
though it must be admitted that even the most fastidious eye 
can look without emotion upon the most voluptuously chis- 
eled statue where the purity of the marble and coldness of the 
stone combine to banish from the mind of the beholder all im- 
pure thoughts or suggestions. This however is not true of a 
well executed painting, where every passion is so perfectly 
delineated and so well colored that the beholder can almost 
fancy he feels the warm burning breath and sees the heaving 
and C3 welling bosom, while his ear may almost hear the throb- 
bing of the enraptured heart, and where every struggling pas- 
sion is so perfectly portrayed by the painter that it must be 
understood by every person young or old, pure or impure who 
chances to gaze upon the picture. 

I saw more solid wealth in diamonds and precious stones, 
gold and silver plate, and finely wrought works in the precious 
metals than I thought could be collected together in any one 
place in the world. They are to be seen in the green vault of 
the Royal Palace. There is here exhibited a full communion 
set in fine gold and ruby-crystal by Benvenuto Cellini. 

Before quitting Dresden a young English traveler sug- 
gested that we should visit the Zoological Gardens just west 
of the city; it was late in the afternoon when we entered, and 
we found the collection so extensive, that before we were aware 
of it we were in the deep woods among the black swans with 
darkness fast obscuring all our landmarks for an exit from the 
place. By the time we reached the gate it was as dark as 
pitch, a rain storm had commenced and the gate keeper had 
gone home for the night. We pounded at the gate and hol- 
lowed with all our might but no relief came. "Heavens," ex- 
claimed my companion, "Have we to stay with these blasted 
beasts all night in the rain ?" "Not if I can help it," said I, 
as I commenced scaling the wall, at least twelve feet high. By 
clinging to the bar of the gate, I got over pretty well, but vixy 
poor companion fell from the top of the wall, and came near 
breaking his neck, beside spoiling a good suit of clothes. He 
swears he will never forget Dresden, nor will I. To-morrow 
I start for Prague, and from there to Vienna. 



•^6 Dresden to Vienna. 

XIX. 

Dresden to Vienna — Adventure with a Dutch Girl — 
Hotel de la Metropole— Beautiful Suburbs — ^Jews in 
Vienna— History — The Great World's Fair — Paint- 
ings ON Exhibition — Playing with the Tiger — Sleep- 
ing WITH One Eye Open— Shipwrecked— Fifteen Miles 
OF Exhibits--Burgomaster's Fete— Cholera in Venice. 

Vienna, August, 1873. 
I arrived here on the 15th inst. The journey from Dres- 
den requires seventeen hours by rail. I was shut up all night 
with a bevy of six bouncing German girls and one baby, I 
being the only man in the party. Fortunately for me, one of 
the girls had been at school at Dresden, and spoke a little 
English. Her beau was employed at the Exposition in Vienna, 
and she was about giving him a surprise, by an unexpected 
visit. About midnight we all got drowsy, and were soon 
lolling about in all directions, fast asleep. A man is not re- 
sponsible for his dreams, nor a woman for her talk in her sleep, 
if the Bride of Ravenna did lose her life by it, it by no means 
follows that any other woman who talks in her sleep means all 
she says. Why should they be responsible then for what they. 
do in their sleep ? I moralize thus, because about 2 o'clock in 
the morning, and when the lamp had grown very dim, I was 
aroused from my slumber and innocent dreams by a most lov- 
ing embrace from my little Dutch girl. She was fast asleep, 
and no doubt dreaming of her lover. I gently removed her 
arm and slid my shoulder from under her head, and was soon 
snoring again. She is none the worse for it, neither am I. 

I secured a very excellent chamber at the Hotel de la 
Metropole, beautifully situated upon the west bank of the canal 
of the Danube. My chamber window looks down upon the 
water which presents a very delightful scene in the early eve- 
ning by moonlight. The waters are quite rapid in their flow 
and are now very low, and of course not so interesting as when 
the banks are full. The waters are of a murky lime color,, 
very hard and entirely unfit to drink. 

Living here is about as high in a second-class hotel as it 
is in the first-class ones of New York. The Metropole is the 
best hotel in the city ; I pay 6 florins for my room, and my 
dinners cost from 3.50 to 5 florins, supper and breakfast about 
2^ florins each, so that altogether it absorbs about 15 florins 
per day, exclusive of cab hire and extras. A florin is about 
fifty cents in American silver, but as "we are but lookers on 
here in Vienna," we must of course expect to pay a little more 
than if we were permanent dwellers in the city. Again we 



Dresden to Vienna. 'J'J 

must remember that it is the dwelling place of the Emperor, 
and the Capital of Austria. The city is very beautifully situ- 
ated upon both sides of the canal of the Danube. In its 
details it is just like all other great European cities. It has 
its splendid avenues, occupying the site of its old bulwarks, 
its museums, gallery of art, great monuments, palaces, prisons 
and parks, its old town and new, its narrow streets and its 
wide ones. 

The country around the town is quite mountainous in the 
distance, and is very much devoted to the culture of the grape. 
I spent the first day here in surveying the t/wn and its envi- 
rons, making myself familiar with its streets, and studying 
the peculiar habits of the people. The manners and customs 
of the people gradually approach Eastern civilization as we 
recede from Western nations. Many of the Jews here assume 
the dress, and keep up the customs of their brethren at Jeru- 
salem They dwell here in great numbers, and have selected 
the oldest part of the city for their habitation. They traffic 
in all manner of cast-off clothing, and gather together every- 
thing that other people have thrown away. They trade in the 
open street ; crowds of them may be seen on Sunday morning, 
busily engaged in traffic, exchanging hats, coats and even 
shoes, paying a slight difference in the exchange. They may 
be found sitting on the bare pavement, trying on shoes, and 
exhibiting the excellencies of a pair of worn-out pantaloons, 
a used-up pinch-back watch, or a dilapidated old hat. 

Alter walking around what are here called the rings, occu- 
pying the site of the recently removed bulwarks, ana which 
are really fine modern streets, very much like the boulevards 
of Paris, it is necessary to penetrate the centre of the city, or 
that part within the rings, to obtain anything like a fair idea 
of the place. It will be found to be a perfect network of nar- 
row streets, lanes, passages under gloomy arches, and long 
dismal vaults, with what we would call dirty alleys, running 
in every conceivable direction. Upon these narrow streets 
very large houses are erected, often inhabited by fifty families. 
The entrance is through an arched passage in the centre, gen- 
erally leading to a court-yard, from which the only light and 
air is obtained for the chambers not facing the street. In 
many places the sun never shines upon the street. 

It must be remembered that Vienna is a very old city. 
Marcus Aurelius died here A. D. i8o. It was a flourishing 
town until the Huns invaded the Roman Empire in the fifth 
century. Charlemagne conquered the inhabitants of the dis- 
trict and made it a part of his empire. During the crusades, 
we read of Vienna as a city of great importance. In 1276, 
Rudolph, of Hapsburg, became the ruler of Austria and made 



78 Dkesdkn to Vienna. 



Vienna the seat of his house. It has been twice besieged by 
the Turks, and near its gates .the celebrated battles of Auster- 
litz and Wagram were fought. The collection of rare paint- 
ings of the Belvedere have a world-wide reputation. It 
requires at least two days to give even a glance at each as 
you pass ; they are chiefly by the old masters. I confess I 
am losing my admiration for the old school, and enjoy much 
better the'works of modern masters, many of which are 
exhibited at the Great Exhibition. There is something won- 
derfully enchanting in a well executed painting or piece of 
sculpture. 

It is very amusing to observe the passing crowds at the 
exhibition. Men of all nations, tongues and kindreds of the 
earth would halt and gaze in rapture on some sleeping venus, 
nor would they pass without inspection, the venuses awake. 

The French department is most admired. A splendid 
life-size painting representing a naked virgin, rolling upon a 
bed of roses with a pet tiger, is very suggestive of many liv- 
ing pictures. She sportively caresses his head as he licks her 
hand ; a lurking fire in his eye indicates that his rough tongue 
has given him a taste of blood, and when in alarm she en- 
deavors to withdraw her hand, his bristling hair and curved 
tail imparts to her the startling fact that she is just one minute 
too late. He will certainly devour her for no rescuing hand 
is near. I would advise all my young female friends in 
iVmerica, as well as some of the young gentlemen, to avoid 
playing with the tiger. ' ' Shipwrecked ' ' is another beautiful 
work. A fair young damsel is in a tinj^ boat wafted by the 
breath of love far out upon life's smooth sea. Suddenly a ter- 
rific tempest wrecks the frail craft, and a great dashing wave 
casts her lifeless form upon the rugged shore. It needs no 
explanation. Just opposite is the picture of an angelic form, 
naked and alone in a deep wood at midnight. She stands 
erect, holding in her right hand above her head a bright lamp 
and reflecting mirror. The dim outline of a narrow path is 
before her. She shows no fear, for she is ''walking in the 
light.''' This painting is called " La Verita." A little fur- 
ther on I observe a crowd of admirers around a large painting. 
As usual I find it to be the same old story, a sleeping venus 
with cupid drawing aside the veil to give Pan a peep. Of 
course the rustic god is love-struck ; how could any half human 
beast help it, with all her charms exposed. The poor woman 
does not know she's naked, for she is sound asleep, with one 
eye half open. I have seen women just like her, not only 
handsome, but they knew it, and they went to sleep just where 
they knew such half human brutes as Pan were wandering 
about. The E^ichantress is a charming picture of female 



Dresden to Vienna. 79 

beauty, but she walks backwaid, followed by her admirers till 
she leads them to an unknown land, the dark confines of which 
are seen in the background. I wonder if the world ever pro- 
duced a woman as superlatively beautiful. If it did, we may 
appreciate Shakespeare's expression : "A fiend like thee could 
draw my soul to hell !" If Potiphar's wife was half as hand- 
some, Joseph was certainly a saint, or a eunuch. 

I shall carry in my mind forever the face of Csesar. While 
falling at the base of Ponipey's pillar, he seems to say et tit 
Brute, and if he gave to Brutus such a look as the artist has 
given him here, he would need no other ghost to fright him 
from the field of Philippi. In the gallery of sculpture are, if 
possible, some still more attractive works. Here we have 
Cupid with a golden chain binding together two youthful 
hearts. It is most exquisitely executed and cannot be looked 
at without an emotion of pleasure. It recalls a happy hour 
long years ago, when he chained together a pair of hearts that 
I could name, and what is better the golden links, though 
sometimes a little bent, have never yet been broken. Sculp- 
ture, when perfect, is always chaste and pure ; the nude figures 
are supposed to be alone, asleep or surprised ; nothing can so 
well exhibit the beauty of the human form and at the same 
time prerserve the purity of the imagination. A universally 
admired work is labeled "I Primi Flori." It represents a 
sweet maid of sixteen summers, chiseled from marble so pure 
that it seems transparent. She wears a wreath of the early 
spring roses, and her face is as bright and hopeful as an angel's 
smile. Alas ! she little knows how rapidly the winter shall 
approach and blast her beautiful flowers, or how soon her own 
loveliness shall fade and pass away forever. And so for days, 
and even weeks, one could wander among these beautiful 
images of grace and loveliness and never feel satiated upon 
the food for thought they so abundantly provide. 

The Grand Exposition is simply stupendous ; it is abso- 
lutely impossible to give an idea of it. It must be seen to be 
comprehended or enjoyed. It requires at least fifteen miles of 
walking to explore it all. Here may be seen the whole world 
in a nut-shell. Oriental palaces are reproduced, and the mar- 
kets, bazaars, restaurants and workshops of the East, attended 
by the veritable merchants, barbers and servants of the lands 
they represent, in their native costumes The arts, sciences, 
trades, arms and agricultural implements of all nations are on 
exhibition. It is but a few yards, often but a step irom the 
habits, customs and manners of a civilized people to the semi- 
barbarous fashions of Egyptian, Persian or Arabian life. As 
}'0U march from the East toward the West, the progress of 



'8o Vienna to Munich. 

civilization is distinctly marked by the improved machinery 
for manufacturing and the implements of war. 

The buildings for the accommodation of the Exhibition, 
are of the most beautiful architectural construction. One can 
hardly believe they aie to be all removed when the grand dis- 
play is over. The park in which they are erected is an ordin- 
ary wood, not to be compared with Fairmount Park at Phila- 
delphia, but while we have the advantage in the ground, I 
entirely dispair of producing a displa^^ approaching the magni- 
tude and grandeur of Vienna. Those who visited the World's 
-Fair at I^ondon, and the Exposition Universelle at Paris, say 
that both combined were not half equal to this. 

The Burgomaster of Vienna gave a grand soiree on Sat- 
urday evening last. It was attended by many thousands of 
strangers from all parts of the world. Among other distin- 
guished guests the Burgomaster of South Chester (i) was there. 
The gardens and halls were splendidly illuminated, while the 
guests were welcomed by the most delightful music and a 
gorgeous collation. It lasted nearly all night and was a great 
success. 

I had intended visiting Venice and Milan, only one day 
distant by rail, but the cholera is now so bad in Venice as to 
be considered dangerous to strangers. I met yesterday a 
Philadelphia lady direct from there. She says it was with 
difficulty she got into Austria ; not being permitted to land 
until the car she occupied was fumigated as well as herself. I 
will therefore postpone my visit to Italy to a more convenient 
season, and will leave here to-morrow for Munich, and from 
thence to Paris on my way home. 



XX. 

Vienna to Munich — Last I^ook at the Fair — An Ameri- 
can IN Jail — A Suspicious Wine Cellar — The World 
IN Vienna — A Black Princess — High Altitude op Mu- 
nich — Bavaria — Munich — St. Boniface — Art Gallery 
— Palaces and Dungeons — The Old King and Lola 
MoNTEz — The New King and Music — Beer Drinkers — 
The Privileges of the Fair Sex — A Priest-Ridden 
People — Revolting Scene in a Charnel House. 

Munich, August, 1873. 
Before leaving Vienna I took a long last look at the Grand 

Exposition. It makes the heart sick to think that all this 

(1) When this letter was written I was the Burgess of South Chester. 



Vienna to Munich. 8i 



gorgeous display of glittering splendor shall so soon, like the 
"baseless fabric of a dream," vanish and forever pass away. 
It seems to me that Philadelphia should have had a commis- 
sioner here from the beginning, studying the details, for it is 
folly to suppose that any knowledge worth imparting could be 
gathered in a week. It would require the whole time to give 
a hasty glance at each group. Improvements could undoubt- 
edly be made, and just here is where the importance of a com- 
petent commissioner is so necessary. Just as an inferior 
architect might suggest improvements in St. Peter's at Rome, 
St. Paul's at lyondon, or the Capitol at Washington, so a 
person of even ordinary ability might be able to give very use- 
ful hints, and could profitably observe and note, not the per- 
fection of the display, but its faults and mistakes, so that they 
could be avoided in our Centennial celebration ; yet I am told 
by the attendant at the ofBce of the U. S. Commission, that 
none of the Philadelphia Commission staid over a week. For 
all they learned in that time they might as well have staid 
at home. 

One of the sover-eigns of America, at Vienna, is likely to 
get a taste of Austrian justice instead of her hospitality. He 
had a dispute at one of the cafes with a waiter, who he says 
seized his cane as he supposed to strike him, he then drew his 
revolver and although he replaced it instantly, he was arrested 
and committed to prison. The laws of Austria are very severe 
in such cases. It is made a felony to draw a deadly weapon 
upon a citizen, punishable with fine and imprisonment of 7ioi 
less than three years. The most distressing part of the case 
is, that he has his little son, not over 12 years old, with him. 
He had better have left his American institution at home. 
There is said to be no necessity for it in this country. I would 
nevertheless have felt more comfortable last Saturday night if 
my pocket had contained one The water of Vienna is poison, 
beer to me is disgusting, and consequently I had to drink wine, 
which was so frightfully high at the hotel, that none but 
princes could enjoy it. I was told there were places in the 
city where good Hungarian wine could be bought by the glass 
very cheap, and was directed to a place in the old part of the 
town, which, after some wandering among narrow and wind- 
ing passages, so contracted that with outstretched arms, I 
could touch the houses on either side, I came to a low arched 
vault, which I entered and was conducted through a succes- 
sion of irregular arches and dark cavernous vaults, to a mouldy 
cellar lit up with tallow candles, and filled with acrowd of the 
ugliest, roughest and raggedest set of villains I ever saw. 
They were seated around dilapidated tables and were smoking 
common cigars and drinking white Hungarian wine by the 



82 Vienna to Munich, 

qiart. I was the only decently dressed man in the place, and 
se2med to be the object of every gaze, as well as the subject of 
the common jargon, not a word of which I could understand. 
When I thought how easily I could be knocked in the head, 
robbed and disposed of, and no one be the wiser of my where- 
abouts, I began to feel alarmed and wished myself safely out; 
but there was no stopping on a race-course, so I determined to 
face it out. I observed the fellow on the other side of the 
table, eyeing my diamond breast-pin, which I had forgotten to 
conceal and which fairly glittered in the dim candle-light. I 
do not suppose there was a particle of danger, but the rogues 
did stare at me just like hungry cats at a good fat rat. I 
gave the fellow on the other side of the table a defiant look, 
and kept my eyes full on his, until with assumed composure, I 
gobbled down my pint of wine and quietly felt my way out, 
when, I assure you, I breathed much more freely. On in- 
quiry, I learned that it was the Saturday night rendezvous of 
the lower classes of Vienna, where they met to smoke bad 
cigars and drink cheap wine, and that the probability was, 
that they were as much surprised to see me there, as I was to 
find myself in their company. I am inclined to think, how- 
ever, that I was safer at the "Metropole," even if I had to pay 
for a whole bottle of wine, in order to get a single drink. 

It was a source of great amusement to observe the variety 
of races, and the colors and costumes worn by the people of 
different nationalities at Vienna. There was at the Metropole 
a gentleman of very light complexion, in full European dress, 
with a wife, also well dressed, who in America would pass for 
a negress. From the attention he paid her, and the politeness 
she received from others, I suppose she is a person of some 
importance in her own country. 

I left Vienna for Munich on the 20th. It requires twelve 
hours by express train to make the journey between the cities. 
It is much cooler and more pleasant at Munich; although in 
about the same latitude it is of much greater altitude, Vienna 
being 430, while Munich is 1703 feet above the level of the 
sea. The night air here is considered dangerous to sojourners, 
because of its sudden coolness and variableness. Bavaria is a 
very rich, fertile and beautiful country, much better looking 
than either Austria or Prussia, The scenery up the valley of 
the Danube and the rapid Iser, is very picturesque. As we 
approach Munich the distant Alps can be distinctly seen. 
They are but a day's journey distant, and are much visited by 
the fashionable citizens as a summer resort. Notwithstanding 
the great altitude of the city, it is built upon a vast plain of 
about fifty square miles. The ground immediately around the 
city is rather sterile, but very highly cultivated, Munich^ we 



Vienna to Munich, 83 



are told, was founded by Henry the Lion, in 1158. It has in- 
creased very rapidly in population during the present century ; 
its present population being about 170,000, nearly all of whom 
are very devout Catholics. It is no uncommon sight to see 
houses, even of modern construction, ornamented with a niche 
containing an image of the blessed virgin and child; while the 
churches are very abundant, and most elaborately adorned 
with paintings, frescoes and pious statuary. The Basilica of 
St. Boniface, is one of the most beautiful churches I have ever 
seen, and I have visited many hundreds in different countries. 
It is an admirable imitation of the ancient Italian Basilica of 
the fifth centur}-. It has sixty-six marble columns, each of a 
single shaft, supporting round arches richly gilt, forming four 
grand aisles. The walls of the entire interior are lined with 
pjlished marble of various colors to the top of the columns, 
and above the columns are some of the finest frescoes in 
Europe, representing scenes in the life of St. Boniface, and 
other old Bavarian saints, with portraits of all the popes from 
Julian III. to Gregory XVI. The exterior of the church has 
quite an ordinary appearance, being faced with red brick. The 
fine marble columns in front of the church are all that would 
attract the attention of the passer-by. 

Munich has a splendid picture gallery and a national mu- 
seum, said to be the finest in Europe. Like most museums the 
traveler wearies his mind in endeavoring to comprehend the 
immense collections spread before him. He has no time to 
deliberately study the historical collections of each epoch or 
period so well represented. He might spend months, instead 
of hours, in examining and studying the different groups, 
chambers and series. One is overwhelmed and confused with 
the immensity of the collection, and leaves it with a feeling of 
mental fatigue instead of refreshment, the natural result of 
cramming the food for a months' reflection into a single meal 
of observation. The same may be said of the gallery of paint- 
ings in the old PinacothecayiX. has works by Rubens, Rem- 
brandt, and some of the best efforts of the old masters of Ital^' 
and the Netherlands. It has nine large halls, each set apart 
for a separate school. A gentleman of leisure could profitably 
spend weeks in this gallery alone, and find ample food for most 
delightful thought; for, after all, there is really no end to the 
capacity of the mind for reflection. It acts as it is acted upon, 
and grows in proportion to what it digests, not to what it de- 
vours. 

The new part of Munich, with its wide streets and fine 
public buildings, monuments in fine bronz,e, and beautiful 
gardens, is more attractive than either Berlin or Dresden. 
Some think it superior to Vienna. I visited the King's Palace 



84 Vienna to Munich. 

and was permitted to look with my plebien eyes into the sacred 
precincts of royalty. The old palace is now being restored; 
it covers several acres of ground, has its large court yards, 
chambers of state, ball and reception rooms, waiting rooms, 
chapels and bed chambers above ground, and its dark, mouldy 
vaults and dismal dungeons and cells below ground, where 
many a poor soul has passed a life of misery and neglect, and 
where many a royal prisoner, male and female, has died from 
violence or starvation. If these old walls could speak, they 
would 

"A tale unfold, whose lightest word 
Would harrow up the soul; * * * 
Make the two eyes, like stars, start from their spheres; 
The knotted and combined locks to part, 
And each particular hair to stand on end, 
Like quills upon the fretful porcupine ; 
But this eternal blazon must not be 
To ears of flesh and blood." 

I also paid the new palace a visit. It was built by the 
gay old king of Bavaria a few years ago, for the accommoda- 
tion of I^ola Montez. Though of recent construction, it too 
could tell some unwelcome tales of the lecherous old reprobate 
and his merry mistress. Many of us remember how the peo- 
ple, becoming disgusted at the disgraceful scenes enacted in 
this palace, revolted, and in fury drove lyola from Bavaria, and 
the foolish old king from his throne. The present king, who 
I believe is a grand-son of the one previously spoken of, is a 
model of virtue and propriety, so modest and retiring, that 
notwithstanding all the efforts of his courtiers, he cannot be 
induced to wed. Several matches have been made for him, 
and publicly announced, but he always backs out just at the 
critical moment— the wedding day. He is what the ladies 
call a pretty man, soft, effeminate, and of delicate mould; abso- 
lutely invulnerable to the charms of beauty, but passionately 
fond of music. 

The citizens of Munich are great beer drinkers, they are 
absolutely incapable of any form of amusement beyond the 
enjoyments of a beer garden, where they will sit from morning 
till night listening to the music, drinking their beer, telling 
their little stories and smoking their pipes. It is perfectly 
comme il fant for a lady to attend either the gardens, concerts, 
or even the theatre alone, and she will never be insulted or 
spoken to except in politeness by any one. While the women 
have this privilege, it must be added they are also permitted 
to sweep the streets, make mortar, and carry bricks for the 
baicklayer saw wood, plough, spread manure, mow and carry 
burdens large enough for pack -mules. I prefer, with all their 



Vienna to Munich. 85 

faults, our own forms and customs, and I do not think a woman 
was intended for all the uses they make of her in Bavaria. 

The lower classes are evidently priest-ridden. A reason- 
able amount of religion is undoubtedly very good, but while 
I must admire the Christian devotion of the Bavarians, I can- 
not without a feeling of pity, see their debased and almost 
idolatrous saint worship. I was walking through one of the 
charming gardens, when a fine looking woman, also walking 
in the garden with a gentleman and two female attendants, 
suddenly became very sick ; she had all the symptoms of heart 
disease, and seemed to me in an almost dying state. I saw 
the attendants run off very rapidly, as I supposed for a phy- 
sician, instead of which they brought back two priests, who 
for a full half hour did nothing but oil her hands and put a 
crucifix to her lips, while they whispered pious ejaculations 
in her ears. Presently she showed some signs of revival ; then 
they sent for a doctor. I am told that a rope broke a few days 
ago and let fall a large stone on the breast of a workman ; his 
fellow workmen instead of removing the stone and saving his 
life, ran for a priest. By the time he arrived the man was 
dead. 

I shall never forget a most horrid and revolting sight in 
the cemetery of the city. Some regulations forbid the burial 
of the dead until a certain length of time after they are brought 
to the cemeterj" for interment. I chanced to observe a funeral 
halt and deposit a corpse in a large building. As the door 
opened I looked in ; there lay sixty-three dead bodies in their 
funeral attire, from babes of yesterday to old men and women 
of eighty years, young virgins as plump and beautitul as if 
they were made of wax, lay beside emaciated forms wasted to 
skeletons by long sickness. Some were absolutely in a state 
of decay, V^ith black hollow eyes, and lips which had fallen 
away from the teeth. Most of them were covered with flowers, 
and all had their faces exposed and were so arranged that a 
single glance around the hall showed every face. The smell, 
was that of a charnel house. Without depreciating German 
manners I have come to the conclusion that there is no place 
like home. I leave here to-morrow for Strasbourg, and am. 
traveling very rapidly westward and homeward. 



86 Munich to Strasbourg, 



XXI. 

Munich to Strasbourg— Stutgardt— The Suabks — Babies 
AND Grapes — UIvM — Deserted Baden-Baden — Cathe- 
dral of Strasbourg — The I^ate Siege — Shells for 
Candlesticks — -The City Germanized — -The Great 
Clock— Pickpockets— Strasbourg to Paris — Paris in a 
state of Decline — Probable short-lived Republic- 
Contrast between French and Prussian Soldiers — 
The Gay Mabile — English as spoken by a French Girl 

BOIS DE ViNCENNP:S — BOIS DE BOLOGNE -AbSYNTH DRINK- 
ERS — Infidelity — Versailles — Useless Fortifications 
OF Paris. 

Paris, August, 1873. 

The time by rail from Munich to Strasbourg is about 
twelve hours. The course is nearly due west, up the valley of 
the Danube, which is wide and flat, but seems well cultivated, 
although not remarkable for its fertility. In the vicinity of 
Stutgardt the soil as well as the scenery very much improves. 
The distant Alps are plainly visible, the rich undulating lands . 
yield an abundant supply of corn and wine. Great vineyards 
grace all the Southern faces of the mountains, which are ter- 
raced with stone walls nearly to their tops, and look very 
beautiful. The city of Stutgardt is of comparatively recent 
construction and therefore, although a very pretty town, of no 
particular interest to the traveler. The line of the road from 
near Stutgardt follows the valley of the Suabia, from whence 
our country has been so liberally supplied with knmigrants, 
known as Suabes. They are to the Germans what our Penn- 
sylvania Dutch are to the native farmers. The Prussians or 
Bavarians would consider themselves insulted to be called 
Suabes. They are nevertheless a very honest, thrifty and in- 
dustrious people, and, from the clusters of children everywhere 
to be seen, as well in the fields as in their mother's arms, and 
other still more comfortable quarters, one would conclude that 
the soil was equally as productive of babies as of grapes. 

Some of the mountain tops are still graced with old ruined 
■castles, the remains of feudal times. I almost wonder that 
the shrill scream of the iron horse now so constantly reverber- 
ating among the surrounding hills, does not fright from their 
rocky graves, the ghosts of some of the old robbers who once 
inhabited these ruined piles. 

As usual in Germany, the fields are full of women per- 
forming the drudgery and common labor of the farm, such as 



Munich to Strasbourg. 87 



plowing, spreading manure, mowing and making hay. As a 
natural consequence, they are coarse and masculine in appear- 
ance. The road passes over seme of the most hotly-contested 
battlefields of the world. Ulm is a very strong fort ; earth- 
works, thrown up during the recent war, are all around it. 
As we passed from Carlsrhue to Oos, my eye recognized the 
old castle of Eaden. I visited it in 1869, when Baden-Baden 
was the battlefield of all the gamblers of the earth. It is said 
to have lost its attraction for travelers since its license to gam- 
ble has been taken away. The whole country, with the long 
range of mountains covered by the Black Forest, seemed as 
familiar to my eye as if I had seen it but yesterday. The tall 
spire of the Cathedral of Strasbourg can be seen long beiore 
the town is reached. It is one of the highest steeples in the 
world, and was a mark for the German gunners in the recent 
bombardment of the place. I was surprised to see how thor- 
oughly the town has been deprived of its French appearance. 
She looks like an old German woman, and until you hear her 
speak, you are not aware that she is a French girl in a German 
gown. All the French names of the streets have been taken 
off and German jaw-breakers substituted, while the constant 
movement of German soldiers and the eternal clatter of the 
drum and fife render the illusion still more perfect. At heart 
she is devotedly French, and never lets an opportunity slip to 
give vent to a secret curse upon her Prussian ravisher. There 
is nothing in Strasbourg worth a visit except the cathedral , 
It is really a wonderful work. The great piles of stone heaped 
up along the aisles, and the new stained glass which has been 
substituted for the windows, too plainly indicate how terribly 
it suffered from Prussian shot and shell during the siege. It 
has, however, been nearly restored to its former appearance. 
The organ, which had been blown entirely from its position by 
an exploded shell, has been rebuilt and now occupies its old 
place. The old priest, whom I bribed to open the church for 
me — for I arrived after the hour of public admittance — while 
guiding me around the interior of the building gave vent, in 
French, to a rather severe curse, for a priest, upon the heads 
of the sacreligious heretics who had so nearly destroyed his 
idol. The church must indeed have been a rather uncomfort- 
able place during the siege. I counted some thirty marks of 
shot and shell, some of which knocked out several tons of 
stone. My guide thought that the Prussian king was surely 
an infidel ; for said he, when we implored him to spare the 
cathedral, he sent us back the audacious reply, that " he was 
sorry he could not move the church out of the range of his 
guns," when bang went another shell right into the organ. 
But few houses in the city escaped a shot or shell ; the hotel 



S8 Munich to Strasbourg. 

where I st''/pped received several ; one is still imbedded in one 
of the large wooden girders in the cofifee roora. If it had ex- 
ploded it would have blown the hotise to' pieces. Another 
came into the landlady's bed chamber, but out of respect for 
the lady, did not explode. She has had it unloaded, and it 
now ornaments her mantle as a candle-stick. It is ten inches 
in diameter and eighteen inches long. The French may aban- 
don all hope of ever recovering Strasbourg. It has been ren- 
dered stronger than ever, and so far as human precaution can 
make it, it is impregnable. It was one of the gates of France ; 
its statue in the place de la Concorde, in Paris, is now draped 
in mourning. 

Before quitting the Cathedral I took a look at the world- 
renowned clock. I consider it a great humbug, not worth a 
journey of twenty miles to see. So far as its astronomical 
construction is concerned, it is undoubtedly a work of some 
considerable mechanical ingenuity; but the awkward figures 
representing Christ and his Apostles, the crowing cock, and 
the figure of death striking the hours on the bell, are anj^thing 
but life-like, and could be easily beaten by any ordinary Yan- 
kee clock-maker. I have seen in Geneva clock work much 
superior to it. The clock at a first glance would hardly at- 
tract any particular attention. After gazing upon the graceful 
proportions of the architecture of the church, to go into 
ecstasies over an old clock with toy men and childish move- 
ments, is certainly a step from the sublime to the ridiculous. 
It stands upon the ground floor of the church, in one corner of 
the building, and looks something like an antiquated organ, 
about twelve feet wide by thirty feet high. It may be one of 
the world's wonders, but it did not so impress me; perhaps I 
expected too much. I really felt ashamed, when I visited it 
the second day, to see the great gaping crowd of Americans 
anxiously waiting for noon to see the toy figures representing 
Christ and his Apostles — the largest figure not exceeding a foot 
in stature — make their circular movement, and to hear the 
cock crow, which is nothing more than any expert organist 
could do much better. The pickpockets reap heavy harvests 
just at the moment when the figures begin to move, while the 
abstracted fools have all their thoughts on the He-Biddy, and 
of course none left for their purses. The church itself is, how- 
ever, all that its enthusiastic admirers claim it to be. It was 
founded A. D, 504, and finished in the twelfth century. The 
stone work is so mellowed and toned down by age, as to pre- 
sent the appearance of old oak carving. The window called 
the "Rose of Marigold," is forty-three feet in diameter. It 
radiates like the sun, and from the inside of the edifice, sheds 
a flood of gorgeous colors through the rich old stained glass. 



Strasbourg to Paris. 89 



The spire is of stone to the highest point, which is 466 feet 
from the pavement. It is sixteen feet higher than the great 
pyramid, and eighteen feet higher than St. Peters at Rome. 
The view from the tower is very extensive. The Black For- 
rest and Vosges mountains can be easily seen. 

I left Strasbourg perfectly satisfied with my visit, and con- 
tinued my journey homeward to Paris, which is about 312 
miles west, and requires about twelve hours' travel by express. 
The French authorities are very particular in their scrutiny of 
all travelers entering from Germany. Americans, however, 
have no trouble in crossing the frontier, which is now between 
Embermenil and Avricourt. The cars are stopped, and every 
passenger is reqnired to pass in single file through a narrow 
gate, produce his passport, and answer such questions as the 
official in charge may ask. Some of the German passengers 
in our train were under examination several minutes before 
they were permitted to pass. 

I arrived in Paris just a week ago, and have been veiy 
busy ever since my arrival in giving a rapid glance at its 
wonderful and almost cxhaustless attractions. I am satisfied 
it is in a state of rapid decline. It is yet the handsomest and 
most interesting city in the world, but it is not the ''Paris 
noiivelle de Napoleon III. ' ' I saw it in the very acme of its 
glory, upon the one hundredth anniversary of the birth of 
Napoleon I — August 15th, 1869. She then looked like a bride 
upon her wedding day — she was all smiles and flowers. There 
was a beauty and rosy freshness upon her face, only equalled 
by her rich and glittering attire and brilliant ornaments. She 
was surrounded by luxurious splendor, and v^as overflowing 
with mirth and happiness. Now her clothes are soiled, her 
laces torn, her ej^es are red with sorrow, and her face is very, 
very sad. The flowers of her fete-day have all withered, and 
instead of youthful freshness a hectic flush is upon her cheek, 
a wrinkle upon her brow, and here and there a treacherous 
gray hair peeps out from her glossy y«/.y^ ringlets. 

The Parisians are struggling manfully to restore the city 
to its former beauty, and have made considerable progress in 
that direction, but it will be a long time before the marks of 
the lash are removed from her back. She richly deserved a 
sound scourging, but I am inclined to think it was laid on a 
little too heavily. Some of the public buildings have their 
ornamental stone fronts completely peppered with musket balls, 
while others have the deeper indentations of cannon shot. I 
counted sixteen marks of cannon balls on the front of the 
building occupied by the Corps Legislatif. On all the public 
buildings, including the churches, the motto of the Republic 
has been substituted for the imperial insignia, and the golden 



Le Jardin Mabille, 



initials I^. N ,, which once graced them all, have been chipped 
off and removed. I noticed, however, that ''Liberie, Egaiite^ 
Frateryiite,'" was only painted on the several buildings with 
ordinary lamp-black, which in case of necessity can easily be 
removed, and the arms of royalty in turn substituted, an event 
which will, from present mdications, soon transpire. One can- 
not avoid noticing the marked difference between the French, 
and Prussian soldiers. The latter are all splendid looking 
men, full breasted and sturdy, and march with a firm and con- 
fident step; while the former are small, pale, hollow -chested 
boys and haggard looking men, apparently unused to arms. 
They march with a kind of swagger, and compare with the 
Prussians about as a mule with a horse. There can be no 
question but that the Frenchmen of Paris have degenerated. 
The results of luxur}'- and dissipation have enervated the race. 
Their national dissipation is not an over-indulgence in wine, 
but a softer and more enfeebling kind of dissoluteness engend- 
ered by such places as le jardin Mabile and similar places of 
debauchery and folly; even they, if possible, have become 
more corrupt. I noticed in the gay Mabile the same dancers 
every night, in disguise as visitors. One of the fair ones seemed 
to take a fancy to me. She took me for an Englishman, said 
she could not speak English but would soon teach me French. 
I excused myself by informing her that I was an American 
and could speak French already. ''Ah, vous etes Americain! 
Je parte Americain,'" said she. I asked her to favor me with 
a little, when up she jumped, and after a hop or two, kicked 
the hat from the head of a six-foot looker-on, caught her toe 
in her mouth, and whirling like a top, she said in pretty good 
English, "How's tat for high — perty good, ehf Roast-beh!'' 
Any government that would tolerate such an establishment as 
le Jardin Mabile, must be far advanced in degeneracy. 

I visited the Bois de Vincenness, expecting to find it as I 
saw it last, but I was sadly disappointed to find what was then 
a beautiful garden and ornamented park, now all overgrown 
with rubbish and scrub oak, and filled with loungers of the 
demi monde, some sleeping on the grass, others making love or 
flirting under the shade of some old tree. The Bois de Bo- 
logne I found half cut down, and what was once a beautiful 
park was now being converted into a race course. 

In addition to their other bad habits, the Parisians poison 
themselves with absynthe, which they drink almost universal- 
ly; and they also weaken their naturally acute intellects be 
the intemperate use of bad tobacco. A good cigar cannot by 
had in Paris under a franc. 

The whole city is but a whitened sepulchre, beautiful and- 
highly ornamented without, but full of corruption and dead 



Parisian Immorality. 91 

men's bones. I doubt if it is any better than Sodom or 
Gomorab was; if it contains ten righteous men God only knows 
where to find them. The great mistake of the Parisian French 
is their infidelity. They have discarded religion, and have 
substituted nothing in its place. It is very hard to find a 
Frenchman who has any idea of a hereafter, and yet he ex- 
hibits many excellent traits of character, such as pity, benevo- 
lence and generosity, but no veneration for God or respect for 
religion. There is much more I would like to say of Paris, 
but the reasonable limits of a letter will not suffice. I would 
like to speak of my visit to Versailles; of the fine paintings I 
saw there, among others most excellent portraits of Washing- 
ton, Henry Clay and Webster; of the miles of galleries devoted 
to paintings and sculpture; the charming gardens and foun- 
tains. I would like also to refer to the battlefields I visited 
around the city, and the ruined villages and destroyed towns 
I saw. No city was ever fortified like Paris; all that human 
skill could suggest was done; yet when the smallest of her forts 
fell, the entire city was at the enemy's feet. It matters little 
how, many bolts and bars secure the doors of your dwelling ; if 
the burglar can enter a window, all the house is at his mercy. 
So with Paris; it required more than human vigilance to pro- 
tect all her gates; the enemy broke open one and all the rest 
were useless. 



XXII. 

Homeward — More about Paris — Pere la Chaise— The 
Catacombs — ^The Morgue — Museum de Cluny — Siege 
OF Paris — An Old Sailor Sea-sick — Folkstone to IvON- 
DON — Thames Embankment — Albert Memorial — Quid 
PRO Quo — The Color I^ine Abroad — Overcrowded 
Hotels — Sad Incident on the Ship — A Funeral at 
Sea — Queer Characters on Board — The Parson — The 
Professor — The Great Traveler— The Missionary — 
The Widower — The Blue Stocking — An Old Sailor's 
Idea of Preachers. 
Steamship City of Brooklyn, off Sandy Hook, \ 

September, 1873. J 

"Breathes there a man, with soul so dead, 
Who never to himself hath said, 

This is my own, my native laad ! 
Whose heart hath ne'er within him burned, 
As home his footsteps he hath turned, 

From wandering on a foreign strand!" 



92 Pere La Chaise, 



We are now in a dense fog, lying like a log upon the 
water, patiently awaiting the rising of the niist, that we may 
caich a glance of our native land. All is bustle and confusion. 
The ladies are busy dressing and the gentlemen packing their 
trunks for a final departure irom the ship. 

To while away a weary hour, I have concluded to write a 
final letter. Before leaving Paris I visited some places I had 
not previously seen. The Cemetery of Pere la Chaise and the 
Catacombs, contains the dust of the millions who once dwelt in, 
built and beautified this venerable city. The situation of Pere 
la Chaise is most charming. Seated upon a hill in the eastern 
part of the town, it commands a view of the whoJe city, and 
for this alone is well worth a visit. The monuments and 
sepulchres contrast unfavorably with those of the fashionable 
cemeteries of America. There is not a cemetery that I have 
seen comparable with Greenwood or Laurel Hill. There is a 
sameness about Pere la Chaise which makes a detailed exami- 
nation very tedious. Most of the graves are covered with 
miniature chapels, filled with small crucifixes and holy candles, 
artificial flowers and wreaths of immortelles. Most of the walks 
are straight and narrow ; even the trees seem to have been 
planted without much taste. 

The Morgue, which is situated a short distance east of. 
Notre Dame, is a place visited daily by thousands of persons 
of all classes and from various motives; many visit it like my- 
self, from mere curiosity, many others in search of lost friends 
and relatives, while still others, to gratify a morbid desire to 
. witness sorrowful scenes and horrible sights. It is said to 
possess a peculiar fascination impelling a second visit from those 
who have once entered it. The building is of but one story, 
with a door for entrance and one for exit. The chamber which 
contains the dead, is separated from the passage by a glass 
partition, through which the passing crowd may look upon the 
dead, who are arranged on marble tables, with as much of the 
body exposed as decency will permit. It is seldom without a 
tenant, as all the unknown dead of Paris are deposited there 
for identification. It is a melancholy study to observe the 
faces, and read the thoughts and emotions of the myriads who 
enter it. Fathers look for lost sons; mothers seeking missing 
daughters, whose anxious faces as they depart, would seem to 
indicate an increased distress, instead of joy in not finding the 
lost one there. Perhaps she is lost indeed, worse than dead ! 
She must be sought for in a worse place than the Morgue. 
When I visited it, one of the tables contained the body of a 
very handsome young man, with glossy black hair and mous- 
tache, and a cleanly shaved face. His chest was full and broad, 
and his limbs splendidly developed. There was a deep gash 



More About Pris. 93 

above his eye, indicating a death from violence. His clothing 
was hanging upon a row of pins over his head. He had been 
found dead in one of the streets, and had been no doubt, like 
myself, a stranger in Paris. 

No one should leave Paris without a visit to the Hotel de 
Chilly. The old curiosities it contains are absolutely unique, 
and must be seen to be appreciated. It contains among many 
other very remarkable things, a clumsy contrivance of the old 
Romans to enforce virtue upon their wives during the hus- 
band's absence in the wars. Modesty forbids a description of 
the singular invention. Suffice it to say that, as a protection 
from modern burglary, it would be but a small impediment ; 
five minutes would scarcely be required to pick the lock. 

There is now on exhibition at Paris one of the most per- 
fect panoramas ever painted. It represents the seige of Paris 
and conveys a better idea of the momentous struggle than 
could be gathered from volumes of reading. It is no more like 
the panoramas we are accustomed to see in America, than the 
light of the sun at noonday is like the glimmer of a tallow 
candle at midnight. It is with great difficulty that the spec- 
tator can convince himself that he is not looking out upon the 
veritable battlefields around the city ; the burning villages, 
affrighted and flying citizens, belching cannon, bursting shells, 
wounded and dying soldiers, and dismounted guns, are all so 
natiiral and life-like as to render the illusion perfect. In the 
foreground the cannon, sand bags and earthworks are real, 
and none but a connoisseur can discern, without physical in- 
spection, the line where the actual ceases and the artificial 
begins. It is pronounced by those who are judges to be one 
of the most perfect pieces of enlarged landscape painting ever 
produced. 

On my way to Boulogne the cars were crowded with re- 
turning travelers from the Continent. In the compartment I 
occupied was a young English I^ord, with two ladies, return- 
ing from a tour through Switzerland. He was very anxious 
that none of his fine points should pass unnoticed, to which 
end he wore a pair of breeches laced tight to the knee, a pair 
of brogans upon his feet, and heavy woolen stockings up to 
his knees, the better to exhibit his well developed calves. 
While dining at Boulogne he warned the ladies to be spare in 
their diet as the channel was sometimes rough, and they might 
suffer from sea sickness ; as for him, he said, he was an old 
sailor and could eat and drink as he liked ; he was never sea 
sick, and would very much like to feel the sensation. We 
had not been a half hour on the sea before our little ship began 
to roll and pitch most fearfully. I never saw so mau}^ sick 
persons at once. There were over six hundred on board, and 



94 Crossing the Channel. 



fully four hundred were sick. The deck, despite the hundreds 
of basins distributed by the stewards, was slippery with the 
dinners of the passengers. Such retching, gagging, and des- 
pairing cries of " Oh ! oh. my ! Oh, I^ord !" I hope never to 
hear again. I felt a malicious desire to keep my eye on his 
lordship, the "old sailor." He was composedly smoking a 
cigar, but I thought he looked a little pale under the gills. 
Presently I saw him sit down on a pile of trunks, as I thought, 
rather too suddenly for an old sailor. It was all up ; he made 
a rush for the gunwale, and with a tremendous " Oh !" he 
gave his entire dinner, including a bottle of Burgundy, to the 
fish. "What is the matter?" said one of the girls, neither 
of whom had shown any symptoms of sickness. " Oh," said 
he, "I ain't sea sick, the beastly motion of the boat has 
turned my stomach, that's all ; I never was on such a blasted, 
stupid ship before." One of the stewards gave him a basin, 
which he kept between "those well-developed calves" the 
rest of the voyage, and filled it about three times. The waves 
cross the channel from Boulogne to Folkstone diagonally, and 
when the sea is rough the small steamers being about half of 
the time in the trough of the sea, roll most terribly. 

The country from Folkstone to I^ondon is very highl)" cul- 
tivated, the land is rich and rolling, and the dwellings com- 
fortable. Ivondon is constantly improving, new embellishments 
being added every year. The Thames embankment is equal 
to anything of the kind in the world. A splendid new street 
has been redeemed from the river and given to the metropolis, 
to the great relief of the overcrowded Strand. The river face 
is built of great granite blocks, and when it is remembered 
that the tide rises here eighteen feet, the difficulty and extent 
of the work can be appreciated. The Albert Memorial at 
Hyde Park has just been finished, and is now one of the 
world's most beautiful monuments. It stands upon an arti- 
ficial plateau, ascended by granite steps from its four sides. 
At the corners are four colossal statues, allegorical of the four 
grand divisions of the earth. The buffalo upon which the 
figure of America is seated is open to criticism. It looks more 
like a Durham bull with a lion's mane than a buffalo. The 
base of the monument is embellished with full life-size reliefs 
in white marble, representing all the world's greatest geniuses, 
above which rises the Gothic spire something similar to the 
Scott monument at Edinburgh, the whole of which is heavily 
gilt with pure gold, presenting in the bright sunlight a most 
gorgeous efiect. 

The Knglish are great on the quid pro quo. I sat for a 
moment in one of the iron chairs distributed over the park, as 
I supposed to rest the weary traveler's limbs, and so the)' 



Homeward Bound. 95 

were, but they charged me the equivalent of six cents Ameri- 
can money for the privilege ; but when we remember that the 
Queen charges sixpence for a sight of her diamonds, and then 
only shows a paste copy of the Koh-i-noor, we cannot expect 
her to give us a seat in her park for less than half as much. 

After a three days' rest in London I left for Liverpool, 
which although over two hundred miles distant, is reached in 
four and a half hours. It rained all the time I remained there 
and had been raining every day for six weeks. At the theatre 
in Liverpool, the American doctrine of equality without re- 
gard to race, was fully recognized. Sambo in full dress, with 
a fair British damsel on each side, occupied one of the most 
fashionable boxes. We may soon expect to see the House of 
Lords graced with a peer from Africa ; yet it is somewhat 
remarkable that the Queen rejected the proffered hand of the 
King of Abyssinia. 

Liverpool was literally crowded with Americans home- 
ward bound ; every ship had its berths all engaged for a 
fortnight in advance. Two ships were to sail the day after my 
arrival, the Samaria of the Cunard, and the City of Brooklyn 
of the Jnman line. I applied first at the Cunard office, but 
could not get a berth even by paying a premium ; every cor- 
ner was secured, even some of the officers' quarters were 
purchased. At the Inman office I received no better encour- 
agement. As I was on the point of leaving in despair I 
learned that berth No. 30 had just been given up, and could 
be secured for twenty-one guineas, which I paid at once, and 
upon embarking found myself the happy owner of one of the 
very best berths in the ship. No one in the city could give 
me any information about the " New American Line," nor 
could I find any advertisement in the newspapers relating to 
it. I met upon the ship a Chicago gentleman with whom I 
had traveled in Germany. He had secured his berth two days 
before me, and had paid a premium of £io, equal to $5ogold^, 
over the regular price, and was lucky in getting it at that. 

We had 119 cabin and 800 steerage passengers, and as 
most of those in the cabin were Americans returning home^ 
you may imagine we were a jolly party. After trying both, I 
much prefer the Inman to the Cunard steamers. The passage 
is shorter and the accommodations better. The officers are 
more congenial, and the stewards more obliging. The Samat^ia 
left Liverpool three hours Defore the Brooklyn, yet we beat her 
a day to New York. 

Everything went well the first two days out. The sea sick- 
ness was passing off — the passengers beginning to become 
sociable, and the smoking room to sparkle with wit and humor, 
when an event occurred which cast a gloomy cloud over the 



96 A Tragedy at Sea. 

whole ship. We had among the passengers an English lady, 
with three beautiful little children. She was about joining hei 
husband in America, He had preceded her several months, 
and had provided a home for her reception. He had written 
to her of his success, and anticipated happiness in meeting her 
and his little ones in New York. She was evidently a woman 
of some refinement; her appearance was genteel, and her 
children were well clad and clean. She had been very sea- 
sick, and became despondent and low spirited. She seemed to 
have a deep affection for her husband, but appeared prepos- 
sessed with the idea that she would never live to see him again. 
We were all enjoying our lunch at noon in the cabin, when 
suddenly the machinery stopped, and we were startled bj^ the 
tramp of hundreds of feet over head on the deck, rapidl}' rush- 
ing to the stern. My first thought was that the ship was on 
fire. I cast a hasty glance out the cabin window and saw the 
sailors rapidly cutting away the life boats. In a moment the 
tables were deserted, and all hands made a simultaneous rush 
for the deck, which was found crowded with passengers great- 
ly excited, looking out upon the sea over the stern of the ship. 
Some had clambered into the rigging, and others stood upon 
the spanker boom. The woman, with her two youngest child- 
ren in her arms, had plunged into the sea; she could be seen 
aoout a half mile in the rear, like a little speck floating upon 
the waves. In three minutes (which seemed an age) the boat 
was cut away, manned and on its way to the rescue. It was 
a time of most intense anxiety, as she was expected to 
sink every moment. She was soon picked up, when another 
speck was observed still further in the rear; it proved to be one 
of the children When the boat returned to the ship the child 
was dead, and the mother a raving maniac. The little boy 
was never seen from the time he was thrown into the ocean. 
The next day we buried the little girl according to the rites of 
the sea. The body, prepared in the usual way, was coflBned 
in canvas, with a cannon ball at her feet, borne upon a plank to 
the gunwale of the ship, when one end of the plank was 
elevated, and while the captain read the service, the corpse 
glided under the English flag into the sea, which closed over 
it forever. The mother has been confined in the ship's hos- 
pital ever since, and although she has shown a few lucid inter- 
vals, no hopes are entertained of her recovery. It would have 
been better for both her and her husband, if she had followed 
her children to their watery grave. 

A ship is like a little world ; the saddest scenes are soon 
forgotten. In a day or two all was as ga}^ as ever. 

There were several passengers on the ship who soon became 
known by some characteristic sobriquet. There was the 



Moke About Paris. 97 



Parsoji who never smiled, walked with a meastired step, wore 
a white cravat and enormous spectacles. He preached one 
night upon Jonah in the whale's belly, in which he demonstrated 
that the whale was a kind of shark, which had mistaken Jonah 
for a little shark, and out of paternal regard sheltered him in 
a kind of pelican-like pouch till the storm was over, when it 
permitted him to escape and swim ashore. Then there was 
the Professor who was a great calculator, just returning from 
a course of lectures on figures, in London. He was known in 
America as Barnum's lightning calculator, and undoubtedly 
possessed a most wonderful talent. He could stand with his 
back to the blackboard, filled with several columns of figures 
by any of the passengers, when he would turn, and in an 
instant write the correct addition, then turn his back again 
upon the board, and repeat from memor}^ every figure upon 
it. One fellow was known as the great traveler. Nobody 
could speak of a spot upon the earth which he had not seen. 
When asked one day what was the greatest distance he had 
ever been from home, he replied 40,000 miles He either 
forgot, or did not know, that the entire circircumference of 
the earth was not much more than half that much. Tom 
Pepper was a model of veracity compared with him. Then 
there was the missionary ; he had under his protection a young 
lady, whom he was escorting to a fellow-missionary in the 
Sandwich Islands, to whom she was betrothed. From the 
marked attention he paid her, and their disposition to keep late 
hours alone upon the deck, the general judgment of the ship 
was, that they were lovers, and that the other missionary was 
cheated out of his bride. One of the ladies was known as the 
strong-minded ^Nom!\.x]., and one of the gentlemen as the widower. 
He was very anxious that every one should know his age — 
]nst forty-five. He was very fastidious about his dress, shaved 
every morning, and paid great attention to the young ladies. 
"You must have been very happy in your matrimonial life," 
said the strong-minded worm.n^ "Oh yes," said he, "we lived 
together forty years without a single quarrel." ' Were you of 
age," said she, "when you were married ?" "Yes, 23 years 
old." She called the Professor to solve the problem, how 23 
and 40 could make 45. 

The last Sunday on the ship was a regular field day for 
the preachers. We had the regular Episcopal service read by 
the Missionary , a sermon by the Parson, who by the way was 
a Scotch Universalist, and a prayer-meeting in the steerage 
under the auspices of the Professor. Besides which we had 
a Catholic priest and a Presbyterian minister, who adminis- 
tered private consolation to the members of their respective 
churches. An old sailor remarked, as soon as he learned that 



9^ New York to Antwerp, 

so many preachers were on board, that he knew we would 
have bad luck, for said he, " what' s the 7ise of 'em if we ain't 
goiii' to die f' 

" Shure," said an old Irish lady as she peeped over my 
shoulder, "ye must be writing a very long letter." I in- 
formed her that it was a resume of ^he events of the voyage. 
She said she had a son in New York whom she had not seen 
since he was a " wee bit of a boy," twenty years ago, that 
he was very rich^ and had seat for her to come and spend her 
days with him. "And shure," said she, " I wrote him a 
very long letter before I left Ireland, informing him that I 
was coming, and for fear it might miscarry I have brought it 
with me, and intend to deliver it myself.'' I am in this respect 
like the old lady, for I have brought this letter with me and 
intend to deliver it myself. 



XXIIL 



New York to Antwerp — Changes in Ocean TraveIvIng 
Since 1873 — Neptune in a Rage — Mutual Blunders in 
our Efforts to Speak a Forejgn Tongue-The Warmth 
OF THE GuivF Stream — The Beautiful Blue and Bra- 
cing Sea — Smoking Room Enjoyments— Kddystone — 
Coast of England — Dover — Antwerp — Farewell to 
THE Ship and Shipmates. 

Off Flushing, April, 1888. 

" Now would I give a thousand furlongs of sea for au acre of barren land — 
ling, heath, bro-vi furze, anything. Tne wills above ue done ! but I would fain 
die a dry death."— 7'/i.e J'empest. 

While waiting for the tide to carry us over the bar and 
up to Antwerp, I will economize the time by giving you a 
brief note of the interesting events of our voyage. At high 
noon, on the fourth of April, with a bright sun, smooth sea 
and fair wind — all on board hopeful and happy— we bade fare- 
well to the beautiful New York bay, and facing nearly due 
east we fearlessly plunged into the bosom of the tranquil and 
lake-like ocean. 

Fifteen long years have passed since my last journey 
across the sea. The changes in the size, splendor and accom- 
modations of the ocean steamers are very perceptible. The 
staterooms and berths are much larger and more comfortable. 
We had no bath rooms then, no barber shop or bar room. It 



A Rough Passage. 



msiy be doubted whether the last is a real improvement. How- 
ever great the changes in ships, old ocean remains the same. 
The first day out Neptune was all smiles ; the second day his 
face was sombre and cloudy ; the third day found him in a 
furious rage. About 500 miles out we encountered what I 
would call a terrific storm, but what the captain described as 
a " right stiff breeze." The ship pitched, lurched and rolled 
fearfully. At times her propeller was out of the water, her 
leeward bulwarks two feet under water, and her decks at an 
angle of forty-five degrees with what should be the level of 
the sea. Everything had to be lashed to the ship and the 
passengers were gently warned that their safest place was the 
cabin. I love the excitement of a storm at sea and secured a 
place for myself and daughter leeward of the funnel. While 
enjoying the " rage of the tempest's roar," the ship lurched 
upon her beam ends and a ten-ton wave struck her in the. 
windward bilge, sweeping completely over the deck, compan- 
ion-house and all, and covering us with water. If our chairs 
had not been lashed to the rails we would have been swept 
into the sea. 

There were but seven passengers at the dinner table that 
day. The rest were distressingly sick and remained so for 
two days. The tables for the next four days were decorated 
with what the English sailors call "fiddles," but what are 
now called racks. They are intended to keep the dishes from 
sliding off the table. One of the passengers, without think- 
ing of the consequences, took a large dish of salmon from the 
steward to help himself to a morsel ; just then the ship gave 
another list to the leeward ; in an instant the table was at an 
angle of forty-five degrees with its proper level^the salmon 
slid across the table and lit upon the sofa on the opposite side ; 
dishes flew from the racks, glasses bounced from their sockets 
over the table, and a bottle of wine struck one of the gentle- 
men on his head, nearly fracturing his skull. Another gen- 
tleman was thrown from his seat against one of the permanent 
cabin chairs, nearly breaking his ribs. He has suffered from 
the effects of the accident ever since. The captain informs 
me that it is no uncommon thing lor passengers in a storm to 
have their limbs broken, and sometimes even the most expe- 
rienced sailors are washed into the sea. After a couple of 
days and nights of storm the sky cleared but the winds and 
waves continued very high. 

Our passengers are of many nations and tongues. The 
captain is a German, the officers and crew German, Swiss and 
Flemish. The ship's accounts are kept in French francs and 
centimes. We have about as much French and German as 
English spoken on the vessel. We have a learned professor oi 



100 In the Gulf Stream. 

Geology and Philosophy among the passengers. He is a walk- 
ing encyclopaedia of useful knowledge, a very estimable gen- 
tleman, but a skeptic in orthodoxy. He believes in Heaven but 
'■' takes no stock in Sheol.'" We have also on board a priest of 
th-e Episcopal church,, severely orthodox of course I asked 
him why he did not controvert the heresies of the Professor. 
His answer was that ' ' none but God could humble a geologist 
or take the conceit out of a philosopher. They all think," 
said he, " that they know more than the Almighty." To a 
certain extent, I agree with the preacher. 

The French and German passengers smile at our efforts 
to speak their language, but we laugh at their blunders in 
ours. A Swiss gentleman, returning from a tour in South 
America, undertook to tell us in English how expert the cow- 
boys were in the use of the lasso. He said they could catch 
a woman swine by ze foot and take all her little flying porks 
before she could get loose. By woman swine he meant a sow ; 
the little flying porks meant her pigs. Our French cook 
thought to surprise us all by writing the menu in English. 
His blunders were ludicrous. One will suf&ce as an example. 
He described the ' ' hind quarter of lamb ' ' as the ' ' behind 
quarter of little sheeps." 

Upon entering the Gulf Stream the change in the temper- " 
ature of the water and air is most remarkable. The water 
suddenly becomes fully 20 degrees and the air from 16 to 18 
degrees warmer. The thermometer stood at 42 degrees before 
entering the stream ; it rose in half an hour to 56 degrees. 
The water at the same time was 7 degrees warmer than the 
air. There are some things I cannot comprehend about life 
on the sea. We have no fire or heat of any kind in our rooms, 
most of the time none in the cabin. The temperature is on 
an average about 50 degrees ; yet we all sit on the deck and 
in the open air, we leave the ports all open when there is no 
storm, and we do not feel the cold. It is also most astonish- 
ing to see how much we can eat, drink and sleep without any 
unpleasant consequences. 

Upon a clear night the trail of the ship presents a very 
beautiful spectacle. The disturbed water shows a long streak 
of phosphorescent light, like m'yriads of fire-flies upon a sum- 
mer night. The color of the sea by day is also an interesting 
study. It is at times a gray stone color, at other times a dark 
blue, then from apple green to the deepest shade of azure. 
The various colors are the result of the play of the sun's rays 
upon the disturbed waters. 

There can be no malaria on the sea, yet I notice that the 
ship's doctor gives nothing but quinine to the sick passengers. 



Smoking Room Morals. ioi 



He says they bring malaria on board and that the pure sea 
air develops it. 

We have a sweet little ten-months' old boy on the ship, 
the brightest and among the best babies I have ever seen. He 
is the favorite of the ship, and laughs and crows from morn- 
ing till night. 

The smoking room was at first a kind of lecture room for 
the discussion of questions of Theology and Philosophy. 
Alas ! how soon Satan converts even churches to his use. 
The cozy little tables in the smoking room were soon sur- 
rounded with anxious card players, gambling like sinners, 
while the steward was kept bus}^ answering the bell for wine,, 
brandy and beer. lyike all the beginning of sin, the gambling 
commenced with a penny ante and five cent limit ; it ended 
with a franc ante and Napoleon ($4.00) limit. Some of the 
foreigners undertook to teach the Yankees some new games.. 
The result was similar to that of the Yankee teaching the 
heathen Chinee how to play poker. The scholars soon knew 
the game better than their teachers and the foreigners were 
cleaned out. Many persons wonder why gambling is permit- 
ted on shipboard. The reason is obvious. The sea is the 
highway of the world, subject to no law but that of nature, 
which Vatell says is the law of nations. There are no police- 
men, committing magistrates, courts or even judges on the 
sea. We all come down to a regular sea level and every one 
does as he pleases, subject to but one condition — he must not 
interfere with the same rights in others. 

At II A. M., on the 14th, we passed Lizard Point. The 
signaling commenced and the news of our safe arrival was at 
once telegraphed to New York and received there five hours 
before we sent the despatch. The first land seen was the 
Scilly Islands, mostly barren rocks. From Lizard the crew 
began to put the ship in order. The carpets were laid, the 
covers taken from the red plush upholstery, the brass work 
scoured, the red curtains put up, the rust on the iron painted,, 
in a word she was rigged out very much like a lady prepared 
to receive her lover. To look at her dressed up in her Sundaj- 
clothes one could not believe she had passed such rough treat- 
ment from the sea or had been so buffeted by the angry waves. 

On passing Eddystone my mind returned to its namesake 
at home, and to the kind friend who had given me so much 
enjoyment on the little ship Comet, in bygone years. The 
coast of England from Lizard to Dover is plainly seen from, 
the deck. The channel was exceptionally smooth, as tranquil 
as the Delaware bay, and our ship moved as steadily as the 
steamer Republic on a Cape May trip. We could see the Eng- 
lish coast as distinctly, for two hundred miles, as one could 



C02 Antwerp to Bale. 

view the Delaware and Jersey shore from a steamboat. The 
English shore is very abrupt, the cliffs in some places rising 
very much like the Palisades up the Hudson.' The land is cul- 
tivated to the edge of the cliff or water as the case may be. 
The topography of the country is beautiful, with alternating 
hills and vales. The fields divided by stone fences and hedges 
are plainly visible. Dover presents a very romantic picture, 
nestling in the valley nearly en a level with the sea, with high 
hills on both sides and immense cliffs along the sea, below and 
above, one hill crowned with Dover Castle and the other with 
grand and gigantic fortifications ; she conveys to the mind a 
sense of beauty, romantic ease and perfect security. 

We are now abou: to bid farewell to the ship. The pas- 
sengers have become almost one family. We will separate 
with regret perhaps never to meet again. We were all stran= 
gers two weeks ago, and a Ibrtnight hence will, perhaps, forget 
that we have ever met. 



XXIV. 

Antwerp to BaIvE-^The Dykks and Canals op Holland — 
The CathedRxAl, Bourse, Art Gallery and Elevated 
Promenade oe Antwerp — Brussels— -MusEE Wiertz— 
Waterloo Once More— Expensive Traveling— Gam-- 
BEING BY Government License— A Little Dinner for 
Four— Valley of the Rhine. 

Bale, April, 1888. 
My last letter was written upon the ship off the quaint 
old town of Flushing. I would like to give j^ou a pen picture 
of the place but it is impossible. It is built in the mediaeval 
style, surrounded with a strong wall, supported by earthworks 
and mounted with cannon. The old red tile roofs, of very 
irregular heights, appear above the ramparts. The gate to 
the city faces up the river Schelde, and, from the sea front, 
does not look much larger than the arched front door of an old 
mansion. The town stands upon the alluvial deposit from the 
mouth of the river, causing a large delta like that of the Mis- 
sissippi at New Orleans- The deposit from the Meuse, Rhine 
and Schelde is very great and changes the channel and bars 
of the rivers very frequently. Skillful pilots are required to 
take ships up to Antwerp. At times the fogs are so heavy as 
to entirely interrupt navigation. We were so unfortunate as 
to encounter one about ten miles up the river. The conse- 
quence was we lost a whole day and. instead of arriving at 7 



Holland. 103 



P. M. on Sunday, did not get there until 5 P. M. on Monday, 
This was a great disappointment to all on the ship-^especially 
as we arose early and dressed ourselves in our Sunday clothes, 
and expected to step on shore at sunrise. 

I may here say, once for all, that my letters will not at- 
tempt to give an accurate description of the places I may see. 
I will endeavor to convey the impressions made on my own 
mind. Many letters from abroad are but extracts from guide 
books. My effort will be to express, as well as I can, the im- 
pressions made upon my own mind, and only note that which 
strikes me as in contrast with the habits and customs of my 
own country. x\s a rule, the manners, fashions and habits 
of the people of Kurope are very much like those of America. 
The means of communication are now so great that men every- 
where, and women too, have become cosmopolite. 

The first sight of Flushing presented a picture ver}^ dif- 
ferent from anything seen in America. The depressed soil of 
Holland, and parts of Belgium is very remarkable. As we 
sailed up the coast we saw the tops of trees and houses a few 
feet above the sea banks. The land lies from seventeen to 
twenty feet below the high water level of the sea. The dykes 
are immense earthworks against the sea ; an enemy could 
destroy all Holland if he could but make a breach in the sea 
walls. The river Schelde is studded with strong forts, and as 
a still better means of defence — but to be used only as a last 
resort — sluices have been prepared, by opening of which the 
whole country for thousands of square miles can be flooded so 
as to render it impossible for an enemy to move. The people 
of Holland and Belgium seem to delight in straight lines. 
There are no fences ; the land is farmed in patches. Around 
Antwerp it is mostly cultivated with the spade. L,ong 
lines of trees can be seen in every direction, all in perfectly 
straight rows. These long lines of trees generally mark 
ditches or canals. The canals are constructed on top of what 
looks like a railroad embankment with the canals where the 
rails should be. The water is pumped up by windmills from 
the ditches into the canals and by the canals is carried out to 
the sea over the dykes. 

Antwerp is built upon the left bank of the Schelde about 
fifty miles from the sea. It is a large and flourishing city„ 
only third in commercial importance to I^ondon. It is one of 
the most interesting cities upon the continent. The Cathedral, 
very old, and rich with the relics of past ages, is one of the 
finest specimens of mediseval architecture. It is decorated 
with statuary and paintings worth millions. It would require 
volumes to give anything like a full description of the art 
treasures and relics of this single building. Antwerp has an 



104 Antwerp and Brussels. 



art gallery equal in gems of art to almost any museum in the 
world. The old part of the city is very irregular. The 
wharves, docks and quays are of most substantial masonry. 
Above the wharf is a very beautiful promenade constructed 
somewhat on the principle of an elevated road — the part below 
being the wharf and that above being the promenade. The 
new part of the city is very much like the new part of Boston ; 
indeed the whole town reminded me of that city. No traveler 
should visit the continent without seeing Antwerp. 

From Antwerp we went to Brussels, noted as the most 
complete and beautiful city of its size in Europe. With a 
good commissioner, a carriage and hard work the town can be 
pretty well seen in two days. It certainly cannot be properly 
comprehended in less time. The general site of the city is 
something like that of Albany, N. Y. Its buildings are equal 
to the best part of New York but not so heavy, nor are the 
interior appointments as spacious. The streets are gracefully 
curved, but few being straight, or at right angles or on parallel 
lines. It is called, even by the French, " Little Paris." We 
visited every place of importance in the city, among others 
the Chamber of Deputies and Senate of the Kingdom . The 
Deputies were in session. The court language is French. 
The exterior of the building i§ not imposing but the inside is 
very rich with costly carved woodwork, and is decorated with 
very attractive paintings. Several million francs have been 
spent in its decoration. The Senate was not in session ; we 
were, therefore, taken through the whole chamber and had 
everything fully explained. The new court house is a most 
imposing and truly grand piece of architecture. It stands on 
a hill which commands a full view of the city. It has already 
cost about three million dollars. It will compare favorably 
with the new municipal building of Philadelphia but is of an 
entirely different order of architecture. 

There is in Brussels a collection of paintings by Wiertz 
known as " Musee Wiertz." They are all of a most startling 
and original character. It is not like any other gallery in the 
world. I would not advise a nervous person to visit it, as he 
would be apt to have the nightmare for a month aiter. Some 
of the pictures made my hair "stand straight on end." A 
few of his subjects will suffice to give an idea of them all : 
Such as "A scene in hell " ; " The visions of a decapitated 
head"; " The Cholera," etc. 

While at Brussels we visited the field of Waterloo, about 
twelve miles from the city. Upon arriving at the little hotel 
opposite the Monument I ordered a little dinner for four, to be 
ready at i P. M. I neglected to limit the price. We had a 
very good dinner but it cost me just $10.50. This is my 



Brussels to Bale. 105 

S<iCOnd visit. 1 procured the same guide that conducted 
Victor Hugo over the field in i860. It is to-day very much 
as he describes it in *'Les Miserables, " My guide showed 
us every important place and position occupied by the con- 
tending armies. He was an ardent Frenchman, a great ad- 
mirer of Boulanger and a firm believer in the future glory of 
France. He felt quite sure that the time was near when 
Waterloo will be revenged and I,oraine and Alsace be restored 
to France. 

It is the fashion for Americans to attribute the French 
disaster at Waterloo to unforeseen accidents. No candid ob- 
server, however, can fail to see the favorable position secured 
and held by the Dukeof Wellington without admiring his skill 
and, however much he may worship Napoleon, he can but con- 
clude he was overmatched in strateg)^ at Waterloo, 

I find traveling very much more expensive than in 1873. 
With all the economy I can practice I cannot get along with 
comfort and reasonable speed under $40 a day for our party of 
four. It costs about $10 a day for a driver and good carriage 
without which it is impossible to make any progress in a 
strange place. 

1 was surprised to find gambling houses licensed by the 
government in Brussels. Their signs are hung out in the open 
street. 

From Brussels we journeyed through the I^uxemburg 
passing through Metz, near S^dan and through Strasbourg to 
Bale, in Switzerland This is a very interesting route, carry- 
ing the traveler over and through some of the most historic 
places and battle-fields of Europe, The road passes through 
the beautiful valleys of the Moselle and Rhine, whose broad 
and fertile plains are flanked on either side by mountains upon 
which the snow has not yet disappeared. The vegetation is far 
advanced in the valleys but the melting snow upon the moun- 
tains keeps the air chilly and the rivers and streams full, 
M^ch of the land is cultivated with the spade. Indeed the 
whole valley^of the Rhine looks like a vegetable garden- 



io6 The Charms of Bale, 



XXV, ■ ■ 

Balk to Milan — An Interesting City — Bridges and Fer- 
ries OF THE Rhine— The Old Minster— Splendid View 
OF THE Alps — Great Changes in Eighteen Years — 
Street Railways Without Rails — No Free Baggage in 
Switzerland — Passing the Frontier — Cars Without 
Accommodations — Fine Scenery — St. Gothard's Tun- 
nel — An Avalanche and Destroyed Village — A False 
Impression— An Italian Surprised at the Ability of 
AN American to Speak English — Great Difference in 
Temperature Between the North and South Side op 
the Alps. 

Milan. April, 1888. 
Bale is called by the Germans Basil, and by the Swiss 
Basle. Bale is not much praised by travelers, but to me it is 
a very interesting city. Like a modest woman she makes but 
little display of her charms, but when you know her better you 
love her more. The city is most charmingly situated upon 
both banks of the Rhine, which is about twice as wide as the 
Schu3dkill at Philadelphia, and flows through the town with a 
startling rapidity. The river is now very high, caused by the 
melting snows upon the surrounding mountains. I timed with 
my watch a floating log as it passed the window of the dining 
room of our hotel. It floated fifty yards in ten seconds. 
The river is walled with substantial masonry on both banks 
and is spanned by three bridges. The old bridge is of stone 
and is supported by twelve arches. There are also several 
rope ferries. By setting the rudder at a certain angle the 
rapidity of the cut rent causes the boat to cross the river with- 
out oars or steam, the iron rope keeping it in its course. The 
houses are built with their foundations under water, and with 
balconies overhanging the river. In this respect it is said to 
resemble Venice so far as the houses on the river front are con- 
cerned. The best hotel in the place is called " Les Trois 
Rois," — in English "The Three Kings." It is a very sub- 
stantial structure of stone, built upon the site of a hotel which 
entertained three kings A. D. 1026. They were Conrad II., 
Henry III., and Rudolph III., the last king of Bourgogne. 
It was at a conference here that Rudolph gave up his crown to 
Henry III. 

The streets of the city are very crooked and narrow in 
the old part of the town, but the new city contains many wide, 
well-paved and beautiful avenues, gardens and parks. The 



Bale to Milan. 107 

old quarters are the most intere3tin3;-. The topography of the 
ground is quite hilly. The most interesting building is the 
"Old Minster." It can be distinguished from the other 
churches by its peculiar architecture. The roof is of tile, 
painted and glazed in various colors. At a distance it looks 
as if it were covered with a bright new piece of oilcloth, or 
many-colored carpet. Parts of the church are a thousand 
years old. It has been burnt once, and once partly destroyed 
by an earthquake. It is now in a very good state of preserva- 
tion. The latitude of the place is about 500 miles north of 
Philadelphia, and yet the air is soft and balmy. Vegetation 
is as far advanced as it would be in the middle of May at 
Philadelphia. There are no fires in the houses except for 
cooking, and the ladies are out in their Spring bonnets. Some 
very fine silks are made here. The industry was introduced 
about two hundred years ago. 

From the rear of the Old Minster the view is very beauti- 
ful. The rear yard is about one hundred feet above the river 
and gives to the eye a range over many miles of meadows and 
mountains. The Alps, capped with snow, can be distinctly 
seen without the aid of a glass. The Jura mountains are also 
plainly visible and the Black Forest as far as the eye can carry 
the vision, presents its sombre shades. When I visited Bale 
in 1869 it was a walled town, surrounded with forts and full 
of troops. It is only by the old landmarks that I would now 
know it. The walls have disappeared, splendid avenues have 
taken their place, magnificent residences have sprung up where 
the old suburbs were and its population has increased from 
fifty to eighty thousand, among them many millionaires. It 
is undoubtedly one of the oldest towns in Switzerland. The 
Emperor Valentinian made it his summer dwelling place as 
early as A. D. 374. The distance from Brussels is twelve hours 
by express train. The inhabitants dress and look very much 
like our own people. A peculiarity I particularly noticed was 
the street cars, just like our own, with a conductor, bell regis- 
ter and other appliances, but with no rails. They run over the 
smooth stone streets at will, and move from side to side like 
our omnibus. I notice, however, that they have the right"%f 
way, as all other vehicles turn out in meeting them. The 
hilly ground and crooked narrow streets exclude the idea of 
rails for the cars. 

We left Bale for Italy on the 21st inst. I had to pay 
thirteen francs for less than one hundred pounds of baggage 
to Milan. Travelers must not take Saratoga trunks unless 
they are prepared to pay very heavily for the luxury. No 
baggage is now carried free either in Switzerland or Italy, 
except what you carry in the hand, and that is limited to a 



BO'S Alpine Scenery; 

carpet bag not over twenty inches long by ten inches square. 

Upon entering the frontiers of Italy the trains are stopped 
and all the baggage, including the little cabas of the ladies, is 
examined. Although I paid tor my baggage and had the reg- 
istered receipt, it was not brought into the shed for examina- 
tion. The consequence was I did not get it till I arrived at 
Genoa. 

The cars have no conveniences for sickness or other natural 
emergencies. There are stated stations where they stop five 
minutes. The conveniences required by travelers on a long 
journey must be paid for as used, IL makes traveling with 
ladies very anaoying, as well to them as to their male com- 
panions. The " toilets '" and water closets must be found by 
the men and cUe ladies be safely conducted to them and back 
to the car. It is absolutely necessary to remember the num- 
ber of your compartment or great difficulty will be experienced 
in finding it at these hurried stopping places, as all the cars 
are exactly alike, and they sometimes shift them while the 
traveler is out. 

The entire route from Bale to Milan is grand beyond de- 
scription. At first we pass over the rich valley of the Rhine, 
then plunge into the spurs of the Alps ; finally we wind 
through many miles of most rugged and wild mountain 
scenery. At the entrance of the tunnel of St. Gothard we 
found two or three feet of snow. 

I can only give you an idea of Alpine scenery by com- 
parison. You have passed over our own Allegheny mountains, 
from the Horseshoe to Altoona and have, no doubt, thought 
it grand, and so it is ; but it is no more to be compared with 
the Alps than the hills at Lenni, on the Chester Creek Rail- 
road, are to be compared with the Allegheny mountains. This 
is no exaggeration, but the best truthful comparison I can give 
to convey a reasonable idea of these stupendous mountains. 
Another marked difference between the Swiss Alps and our 
mountain scenery is, that the mountains here, wherever there 
is earth enough to raise a few blades of grass, are cultivated. 
In some southern exposures they are terraced by stone walls 
ten or fifteen feet high, to give one or two feet of ground at 
the top of the terrace for grape vines. In the heart of the 
chain, however, they are too wild and craggy for even an at- 
tempt at cultivation. Then again, the mountains here are 
studded with Swiss villages. The villagers live by working 
in wood and acting as guides, raising goats, etc. 

We arrived at Milan about 7 P. M. The name of the 
town is pronounced differently by English, French and Italians. 
The English call it Milan, accent on first sjdlable, and the / 
short. The French pronounce it Milan, with the i like our 



St. Gothakd Tunnel. 109 

long e and the n nasal. The Italians call it Milano — the z like 
our e long and the accent on the second syllaWe. Americans* 
should pronounce the name as the English do. The same rule 
should be observed in pronouncing all proper names. The 
scenery from St. Gothard tunnel to Milan is very changeable ; 
from mountains whose tops pierce the clouds and whose crags 
seem to overhang the road, to vast level plains under the high- 
est state of cultivation. The road is very winding and passes 
through a great number of tunnels from a few hundred yards 
to nine miles long. It took our express train twenty minutes 
to go through the great tunnel ot St. Gothard— the longest 
in the world. On the Italian side we passed the ruined 
village recently destroyed by an avalanche. Three or four 
hundred persons were buried under the snow and not a vestige 
of the village left. The pine trees that stood upon the moun- 
tain side above the village were broken and prostrated very 
much as a drag harrow would break down and tear to pieces a 
held of green wheat. The timber of which the houses were 
built lies scattered and broken over many acres of the moun- 
tain side. - 

The experience of my life has taught me that first appear- 
ances are delusive. I have found my best friends among those 
who were at first disagreeable to me. Our journey from St. 
Gothard to Milan was but another illustration of this truth. 
We bribed the guard at Bale to give us a compartment by our- 
selves. He did the best he could to preserve us from the 
intrusion of strangers, but in spite of his efforts a burly, bri- 
gandish looking Italian, as we supposed, pulled open the door 
and sans ceremonie thrust himself into the best seat in the- 
compartment. We all looked daggers at the fellow,, at whicb 
he only smiled and bowed. He soon began to praise the- 
scenery in Italian. We did not reply. He then asked if any 
of us could speak German. I told him no' in a way that would 
have clearlj' indicated to an American that no more questions 
were desirable, I gave him one of my sternest frowns,, expect- 
ing to freeze the man into silence, but it was all in vain. He 
began to chat in French. I told him I could not converse 
much in French but he insisted upon it that I spoke the lan- 
guage elegantl}^ At this flattery I melted into a smile and he 
was not slow to perceive that the victory was his. To my 
surprise, about five minutes afterwards, I found him in an 
animated conversation, in very good English, with my daugh- 
ter. From that time till we arrived at Milan he did nothing 
but chat, laugh and sing. He gave us all the new opera airs 
and was familiar with several tunes named by my daughter.- 
At Milan he introduced us to his brother, who was an attache 
of the station, and who spoke perfectly good English. He 



no A Jolly Brigand. 

assisted us in the selection of our hotel and called upon us next 
day to see that we were comfortable. In a word, the man we 
took for a origand and an intruder was the jolliest man I have 
ever met. I parted with him at Milan with much regret. He 
declared his intention of calling on us again at Rome. 

In my next letter I will try to describe Milan. My im- 
pressions of the town are not yet sufficiently formed. 

The people of the continent have a very limited idea ot 
America or Americans. In the smoking compartment of the 
car, just before our arrival at Milan, I overheard a conversa- 
tion between an Italian and a Frenchman. It was in French. 
The Italian said there were a great number of American pil- 
grims visiting Rome, and he was very much surprised to find 
that they all spoke good English. He asked why it was that 
they did not study the Italian as well as the English. He 
seemed very much surprised when the Frenchman informed 
him that English was our mother tongue. He could not un- 
derstand why a country discovered by an Italian should choose 
English for its language. 

It is twenty degrees warmer on this side of the Alps 
than on the Swiss side. Here the temperature is almost at 
summer heat. Tropical plants and flowers are in bloom in the 
open air. The gardens and green fields remind one of Para- 
dise, but a passing funeral reminds me that we are still on 
earth among mortals. 



XXVI. 



Milan to Genoa — The Great Cathedral — Art Gallery 
AND Paintings Worth Fortunes — Street Railways 
AND Electric Eights — The Arcade Victor Emanuel — 
The Campo Santo — Historic Ground^First Sight of 
THE Mediterranean — The Unique City of Genoa. 

Genoa, April, 1888. 
The country for miles around Milan is flat and uninter- 
esting. It is drained by ditches and fertilized by a system of 
flooding. The land, however, is under a high state of culti- 
vation, worked chiefly by the spade and hoe. The farm labor- 
ers, as a rule, are three or four women to one man. We saw 
several bevies of pretty young girls in bare feet and legs, 
dressed in red petticoats, hoeing the newly dug earth. 

My first impression of Milan was favorable. It is built 
of yellow brick and stone, with a fair proportion of marble. 



Milan. iir 



The brick is invariably covered with cement and painted a 
soft yellowish color, in imitation of the yellow stone of Paris. 
The old walls have disappeared. Some of the arched gates 
remain to mark the places where the ramparts stood. It is 
rapidly losing its ancient appearance. The most interesting 
monument of the town is the Cathedral, built about 500 years 
ago. It is said to be only surpassed by St. Peter's at Rome. 
The marble was all donated. The ground belonged to the 
church corporation that preceded the erection of the present 
edifice, yet the building, when completed, cost the enormous 
sum of $120,000,000. This will give some idea of the char- 
acter of the building. The interior is supported by fifty-two 
colossal stone columns ; it contains four thousand pieces of 
statuary and will hold fifty thousand people. The meridian 
with the twelve signs of the zodiac is traced upon the marble 
floor. A hole in the roof a foot in diameter looks like a small 
star. At noon the rays of the sun fall from the star-like aper- 
ture in the roof directly upon the meridian line traced on the 
floor, rhe solstices are also marked. On the twenty-first of 
March the ray of light begins to advance ; on the twent3^-first of 
September it stops and begins to recede, thus keeping up a per- 
petual march, like a sentinel of Time, up and down the same line. 
The church is a very imposing and conspicuous landmark of 
the town, of which the inhabitants seem to be very proud. 

The art gallery contains paintings by many of the old 
masters. The chief picture is Raphael's Marriage of the Holy 
Virgin. It is said it could not be bought for a million dollars.. 
I would not like to offer it if I had the cash to spare. 

The city is full of soldiers, drilled every day- — a constant 
reminder to the American traveler of the contrast between' 
the feverish anxiety displayed all over Europe in anticipation: 
of an impending war, and the peaceful quiet and sense of secu- 
rity enjoyed by the people of our own country. 

They have a street railway here very much like Philadel- 
phia. The whole city is lighted by Edison's system of elec- 
tricity. By touching a button above my pillow at midnight 
tny chamber is instantly flooded with a light equal almost to 
the sunlight of noon. This is the only place in Europe in 
which I have found this system of light. The ugliest part of 
the town architecture is the roofs of the buildings — I do not 
think there is a slate roof in the town. The houses are mostly 
covered by very rough, half-oval, red tile, presenting the ap- 
pearance of broken flower pots or red terra cotta drain pipes 
broken in long pieces and piled up upon the roofs, one row 
with the belly down and the other with the arched parts up.. 
I notice, however, some new buildings with flat, regular shaped- 
tile, which look very well. 



1 12 The Arcade and Campo Santo. 



The greatest modern improvement is the Arcade. I can 
only give you an idea of its appearance by a comparison. 
Imagine Chestnut Street, Philadelphia, from Seventh to Ninth, 
uniformly built on both sides with the most attractive build- 
ings on that part of the street. Then spring an arch of glass 
over the entire street, extending it half a square up and down 
Eighth Street. At the intersection of Kighth and Chestnut 
construct a magnificent glass dome. Pave the f'-treet from side 
to side with marble mosaic. Fill the buildings with stores and 
elegant restaurants, and you will have the Arcade of Milan in 
Philadelphia. It has a grand triumphal arch at its entrance. 
The front, facing the Cathedral square, is decorated by a long 
colonnade. It cost over three million dollars, and was finished 
in 1865. It is here the citizens do their shopping, gossiping, 
drinking and other good as well as bad things at night and in 
bad weather. In the evening it looks like a bee hive. 

Milan has a fine Campus Martins and Amphitheatre. Its 
Campo Santo, or cemetery, is the most remarkable place in 
the city and is visited by thousands of travelers. It is a large 
enclosed square of about twenty acres, with a colossal arched 
gateway, and vaulted colonnade around the inside of the en- 
tire wall. This colonnade is filled with most beautiful marble 
statuary, displaying all imaginable conceptions, some very 
impressive, others extremely ridiculous. Some of the statuary 
cannot be looked at without bringing tears to the eyes by 
reviving recollections of our beloved dead. It is no uncom- 
mon thing to see persons on their knees before some monument. 
Some of the statuary is so full of life as to almost express the 
hope of a departing soul ; you may almost hear a djdng groan, 
and the tiutter of angelic wings in cold marble, all of full life 
size and some of colossal dimensions. One I shall never for- 
get. It was at least twice as large as life size and represented 
Time with his scythe and hour-glass just alighting upon a 
newly made grave, with half-folded wings, peering down as if 
to read the inscription upon the tomb. His old wings have 
lost many feathers but he can still fly as fast as ever. The 
effect is startling in the extreme and caused my hair to feel a 
peculiar sensation, something like 

"Quills upon the fretful porcupine." 

No monument under ten feet high is permitted in the place. 
Those under ten feet must be removed, both monuments and 
remains, after ten years' repose in the sacred soil. After ten 
years the bodies of those who cannot afibrd to buy the ground 
and erect a monument of the prescribed height are exhumed, 
and either burned in the crematory, just without the wall, or, 
if suSicintly decomposed, the bones are laid away in a succes- 
sion of pigeon holes built in the walls around the ground, 



Genoa. 113 

with a slab of marble recording the name, etc. It reminded 
me somewhat of the inside of a safe depost company's vaults. 

The climate of Milan cannot be very healthful ; the ground 
is too low and flat. 

Two days with a good guide and carriage is enough to 
fully explore the city and see all worth the traveler's special 
notice. 

From Milan to Genoa requires a day of twelve hours. 
After traveling for about thirty miles over a flat and uninter- 
esting country the scenery becomes very beautiful. The 
mountains again appear with their ever-changing landscapes. 
Our road passes through several long tunnels, some requiring 
from five to seven minutes to go through them. The building 
of the road must have been very expensive. We passed over 
some historic ground. We were within sight of one of Han- 
nibal's battlefields and some of Napoleon's gigantic strug- 
gles. Just before we reached Genoa, by a turn in the road, 
we had our first view of the Mediterranean sea. It seemed 
almost like an enchanting dream. We arrived in the old 
birthplace of Columbus about six P. M., and had a fine 
view of the town. Oar hotel is built upon the old sea wall. 
It is entered through an ancient arch and looked more like a 
prison than a place of pleasant rest. But, upon passing 
through the heavy stone arch, we were delighted to find a very 
good hotel with an elevator and other modern conveniences. 
The city is unique and not like any I have seen. It is 
situated in the extreme bend of a beautiful bay with mountains 
behind it extending like the horns of a crescent to the right 
and left. It is nothing like my preconceived ideas of the 
place. The mountains extend down to the sea ; the city is 
built upon the slopes or mountain sides. The French call it 
Gene, the Italians call it Genova. The mountains upon which 
the city is built range from three hundred to two thousand 
feet in height. Some of the houses are twelve stories high on 
one street and two stories on the rear street. The courses of 
the streets which had to conform with the curves of the sea 
and mountain sides are very crooked and irregular in the old 
part of the town. The houses are built of stone, plastered 
and painted mostly in the soft yellow tone of Milan. Many 
of the buildings are richly frescoed outside and in. False 
windows, balconies, imitations of carved marble, etc., so well 
executed as almost to deceive even the citizens, are painted 
on the smooth walls, giving to the town a much richer appear- 
ance than it deserves. 

Many of the streets are so narrow that two carriages can- 
not possibly pass. There are streets in Genoa into which the 
sun has not shone for a thousand years. Some are not over 



114 Genoa. 

six feet wide, with seven-story houses on each side. The 
place is surrounded with immensely strong fortifications. We 
drove up one of the new streets to a height of 318 feet and had 
a most charming view of the whole town and harbor for twenty 
miles around. There were ships lying at anchor before the 
walls and in the bay from whose masts floated the flags and 
ensigns of all nations. With a good glass, on a clear day, 
the island of Corsica can be seen from this point. The town 
is now in a very thriving condition. It is full of palaces rich, 
in works of art. Among its citizens are some of the world's 
richest men, I will describe the place more fully in my next 
letter. 



XXVIL 

Genoa to Pisa— First Impressions of Genoa — A City of 
Contrasts— Beautiful Women — Romantic Drives — 
World Renowned Campo Santo — A Funeral — Innate 
Desire for Immortality— Mr. Blaine at Pisa — The 
Leaning Tower and Baptistry — Ajn Unhealthy Place, 
—Pigeon Holes for the Bones of the Dead — Malaria 
IN THE Valley of the Arno. 

Rome, May, 1888. 
I have just arrived here direct from Pisa. Genoa is a 
city of great interest to the American traveler. One of the 
most beautiful statues in its public squares is of Christopher 
Columbus. The bay or gulf of Genoa is crescent-shaped. 
The city is situated in the center. Before the city was built 
the shore was skirted with mountains rising precipitously 
from the water's edge from three hundred to two thousand 
feet high. Upon the sides of these mountains the city has 
been built. 

I must again resort to a comparison to convey a correct 
idea of the appearance of the place. You must imagine the 
mountain district of Pennsylvania brought down to the sea 
shore, shaped like the moon, with high hills runn ngout upon 
each horn. Then fancy a city of 140,000 inhabitants, built 
like an enormous amphitheatre, with the houses rising one 
above the other upon the sides of the mountains, with the 
streets following the natural conformity of the hills, surrounded 
by a strong and high wall and with immense fortifications, 
with very crooked streets, and houses ten stories high on one 
street and one story on the rear, and you will have a fair idea 
of this beautiful old city. The new part of the city is regular. 



Genoa. i ) i 



well paved, and contains many palaces. The houses are 
mostly built of stone, very abundant here, but all are covered 
with cement and painted a soit yellow color. The Italians 
are excsedingly fond of painting and sculpture. Nearly all 
the houses of the better classes are frescoed very richly within-. 
There are no paper hangers in Genoa The houses are all 
large and high. In outward appearances it is difficult to dis- 
tinguish the dwellings of the rich from those of the poor ; but 
when you look inside, you afe at once undeceived. Some 
imposing buildings will be found to have a family in each 
room : no carpets on the stone or tile floors ; one chamber 
serving as kitchen, bedroom and workshop. In other places 
you will find ropes stretched from one side of the street to the 
other and the family washing hung cut to dry. I find it, 
however, a very attractive and beautiful place. 

The temperature here is several degrees warmer in wintef 
than in Rome. This results from the shelter afforded by the 
mountains on the north, and the southern exposure of the city 
to the sea. It is a city of contrasts. We see squalor and pov- 
erty in one street, in another a few yards off, we find luxuriant 
palaces, splendid horses and carriages and beautiful women 
and children, and in the same street we meet primitive ox--carts, 
barefooted urchins and ragged beggars. While driving to my 
hotel, I saw a laborer deliberately strip himself in the street 
and change his shirt I have seen other sights in the streets 
here that would be shocking to public decency in America-. 
The citizens are remarkable for their strength and beauty. 
The girls are graceful and w^ell formed with large, soft dark 
eyes and luxuriant black hair. For their sake I almost wished 
myself a boy again, but the frosts of over sixty winters have 
frozen the springs of love and have only left a dim but pleasant 
recollection of a lost pleasure. 

The drives around the city are very fine and afford some 
bcdUtiful views of the town and bay. I took several carriage 
rides through and outside of the city In a few minutes we 
ascended from the sea level to a height of nearly four hundred 
feet. Outside the walls you can drive, on a good road, to 
points nearl}^ seventeen hundred feet high. All these drives 
overlook the city and bay. 

The most interesting place without the city wall is the 
Campo Santo, or cemetery. It is most romantically situated 
in a level valley surrounded by mountains. It is perfectly 
square and enclosed by a decorated wall some twenty or thirtj- 
feet high. Around the inside of the wall is a beautiful arched 
colonnade, filled with splendid tombs and monuments to the 
illustrious dead of Genoa whose remains repose, either under 
the monuments, or beneath the marble floor. The statuary is 



ii6 The Campo Santo. 



of the finest marbles and represents every possible poetic con- 
ception of Italian genius. A funeral entered while we were 
within the walls. Nothing but the heavy black hearse and 
some forty or fifty hired mourners entered the grounds. The 
bells began to toll and the religious services had just com- 
menced when a discharge of musketry just outside the walls 
seemed to startle, at least all the strangers, within the enclo- 
sure. The contrast seemed very striking. A whole brigade 
of soldiers were going through their drill and target practice 
outside of the wall, making the mountains reverberate volley 
after volley, while the hired mourners were singing requiems 
for the repose of the dead within. To those who are interested 
in this subject, a very accurate description of the Campo Santo 
of Genoa will be found in the last edition of the Encyclopsedia 
Britannica. The beautiful monuments and decorations of the 
tombs clearly illustrate man's frail efforts to live after he is 
dead, if in nothing else, for a few more years in a flattering in- 
scription over his grave. There seems to be a strong desire 
implanted in the human heart to rob death of his terrors by 
surrounding graves with objects of beauty and attractiveness. 
Vain effort ! Death in every form is terrible. No wonder 
men seek it on the battlefield when the flickering spark can be 
extinguished while in full blaze, rather than suffer the gradual 
inroads of disease, or the slow approaches of death in the form 
of natural decay, and " all the ills that flesh is heir to." In 
one corner I noticed an immense sarcophagus, cut from a sin- 
gle block of stone, covered with beautifully carved bas reliefs, 
intended to illustrate the supposed immortal actions of the 
illustrious dead reposing within. When it was opened a very 
small handful of dust was all that remained. The poor but 
proud fool who supposed he was immortalized by his imper- 
ishable CO Sin, has been forgotten for, perhaps, two thousand 
years, while all that is left for admiration is the work of the 
poor sculptor who designed and chiseled his tomb. 

Genoa is very strongly fortified, well garrisoned and, I 
should say, from my limited knowledge in military affairs, 
absolutely impregnable, except by starvation from a regular 
siege. 

Just as I was leaving Genoa for Pisa, Mr. Blaine and his 
family entered the hotel. I had no time to as much as give 
him my card. He looks well and, if his outward appearance 
is not deceptive, he is certainly able, physically speaking, to 
endure the strain of another campaign. On my arrival at 
Pisa, I found he had just left there for Genoa. I was very 
sorry I had missed the opportunity ot a personal interview. 
I had hoped to find him at Florence but, like many other dis- 
appointments, I had to bear this one too. 



Pisa. 117 

From Genoa to Pisa we passed through ninety tunnels. 
After passing through the mountain region we entered a very 
flat and uninteresting country. We passed, however, several 
orange groves and hills planted with olive trees. The olive 
tree is not pretty but lives to a great age. There are olive 
groves around Tivoli said to be six hundred years old. I also 
noticed the enormous size to which the cactus plant grew. 
Some hedges were formed from these plants. We passed over 
some historic ground — an old Etruscan town destroyed by the 
Arabs in the eleventh century — marble quarries, old ruined 
castles of the Middle Ages, and many other places of interest 
to the traveler who has time for details. 

Pisa is situated on a flat plain and is built on both sides 
of the river Arno. As we approach it the LrCaning Tower, 
Cathedral and Baptistry are seen to loom up far above the 
ancient walls of the city. The climate is damp ; rains are 
very frequent. It is a bad place for rheumatism and ^-ou^. I 
gave it two days and left with a slight gouty sensation in my 
great toe. It is a city of 45,000 inhabitants. It was a 
flourishing Roman colony 180 years B. C. It is said to be as 
old as Troy. In the days of Strabo it was built two miles from 
the sea. Now it is four, the wash of the Arno having formed 
a delta of two additional miles. At one time it rivaled Venice 
in commccial importance. It sent out fleets against the in- 
fidels, and was one of the first towns of Italy. External 
prosperity and internal strife which, by the way, are very apt 
to go together, soon ruined its supremacy, and reduced it to a 
fourth -rate city. Finally a war with Genoa proved disastrous 
to Pisa, from which time it has gradually declined and is now 
of very little importance. Were it not for the leaning tower 
it would soon be forgotten by travelers. 

Ivike Milan and Genoa, it has its Campo Santo, a very old 
and interesting cemetery. It is evidently the model of that 
at Genoa. They have the same practice here as at Genoa and 
Milan of packing away the decayed bones of the dead in 
pigeon holes in the walls, called columbaria^ which signifies 
pigeon holes or places for pigeons. Alter the remains are suf- 
ficiently decomposed, by lying in the earth, the bones are 
exhumed and built up in the wall, with a marble slab facing out 
from the wall and even with its surface, upon which is inscribed 
the name, etc. The place of original burial is no longer cared 
for, as hundreds have been buried in the same grave. 

The river Arno is beautifully walled up on both sides 
with marble bridges of three or four arches. Along the river 
banks are splendidly paved, wide and beautiful streets, afford- 
ing a fine drive along both sides. The river Euphrates could 
not have been much better walled in ancient Babylon. I 



?i8 Historic Ground. 

-counted my Steps over the main bridge and reckoned the width 
between walls at about three hundred and seventy feet. The 
river, however, is deep and very rapid. The leaning tower 
has been described so often as to render further description 
unnecessar5^ It is a most remarkable structure and should bj' 
no means be passed by the traveler without a careful inspec- 
tion. In the Baptistry near the tower there is a most beautiful 
echo. One person singing very slowly and distinctly has the 
effect of a full choir, The city is now full of pilgrims ; indeed 
I find Kurope full of them, on their way to and from Rome. 
Rome is two hundred and twelve miles south of Pisa. About 
twenty miles on our journey to Rome I noticed the first post 
and rail fence I have seen in Europe. The land is not fertile 
after about twenty miles from Pisa. In some places it is good 
and undulating, somewhat like Delaware county, in others it 
is marshy, From Pisa to Rome we pass several of the world's 
most renowned battlefields. The route from Pisa to Rome 
follows very nearly the old Via Aurelia. Part of the route is 
over a district poisoned by malaria. Even the inhabitants fly 
to the hills in the summer. The present Italian government, 
however, is spending immense sums in the construction of 
canals to drain the district and, if possible, make it more 
healthy. Some of these canals are thirty feet deep, with 
smaller ditches running into them, full of stagnant water. 
Thousands of acres of rich alluvial lands have thus been re- 
deemed and I have no doubt the district will soon become a 
thriving place for farming. 

Italy, everywhere, shows signs of energy and recupera- 
tion. King Humoert now rules over 35,000,000 souls, and 
will soon make his kingdom respected by the other powers of 
Europe. If no reaction takes place and the difl&culty with the 
Pope can be satisfactorily settled, Italy will certainly hold 
her own with the nations of the earth. 

As we approach the sea the Isle of Elba can be seen. Old 
Etruscan towns of prehistoric origin are passed ; places spoken 
of by Pliny as important cities in his day have descended to 
villages, now not worth a day's time to see. Tuscany is cov- 
ered with ruined towns. Old vases and stone coffins are being 
constantly exhumed. The whole land is now full of interest. 



Pisa to Rome. iig, 



XXVIII. 

Pisa to Rome — Etruscan Relics — Civita Vecchia — The. 
Eternal City — New Excavations and Great Discov- 
eries — The Coliseum — Recent Discovery of the Sub- 
terraneous Passage prom the Palace of Comodus to 
THE Arena of the Coliseum — New Rome — Cruelty to 
Animals — Old Rome Thirty Feet Below the Present 
Surface — The World's Contribution to Rome — Mili- 
tary Display — Villas and Palaces — The King and 
Queen — Rome Unhealthy from May to September. 

Rome, May, 1888. 
One hundred and fifteen miles from Pisa, we enter the 
former Papal territory, or States of the Church. We cross 
the river Flora and soon reach the site of ancient Vulci where 
thousands of Etruscan vases have been discovered since my 
own boyhood. The old city was five miles in circuit, but has 
all disappeared except its tombs. A little further on we passed 
the town of Corneti, built in the Middle Ages upon the ruins 
of the ancient Tarquinii. One hundred and fifty-seven miles 
from Pisa we arrived at Civita Vecchia, the seaport of Rome, 
with about 13,000 inhabitants. This is a very old city, founded 
by Trajan. The site and scenery are verj^ picturesque. There 
are mineral springs and ancient baths found near it. We now 
approach Rome. Every inch of ground for miles around the 
city is full of interest. As we draw near the ruined walls and 
broken arches of the Eternal City, and contemplate its former 
splendor in contrast with its present humbled aspect, the feel- 
ing is one ot sorrow tempered, however, with a sense of justice. 
Time makes all things even. Rome robbed the world of all 
its treasures of art and beauty. In its turn it has been pil- 
laged for hundreds of years, to enrich the crowns of its former 
rivals and fill the museums of the world. 

I would like tj convey a correct idea of this most inter- 
esting city. I have read much of Rome but find all my pre- 
conceived ideas of the place erroneous. The city is in a state 
of transition. Those who visited it twenty years ago would 
hardly know it to-day. Much of the old city has disappeared 
and is still very rapidly passing away. The streets are being 
beautified, old buildings torn down, and excavations are being 
made upon a stupendous scale. New discoveries are being 
made every day and buried columns, vases, statuary, coins, 
bronzes and other valuable antiquities are being constantly 
exhumed. Streets and squares, supposed to be upon the 



120 The Coliseum. 



original level of ancient Rome are found to be from five to 
sixty feet above the old beds. What was supposed to be the 
floor of the arena when Byron said 

" I've stood within the coliseum's walls 
Amid the relics of Almighty Kome," 

was fully fifteen feet above it. During the Middle Ages it 
was used as a manufactory ; then as barracks ; then as a mag- 
azine for the storage of powder, salt, etc. The arena was 
filled with buildidgs to suit it for those purposes. A part of 
the arena has been excavated to the original level, showing 
the dens where the Deasts were caged, the places where the 
gladiators were kept, and the secret passages from the arena 
to the royal palace, through which the Emperor Comodus en- 
tered to play the gladiator, to gratify his insatiable thirst for 
blood and make Rome howl. 

A regular bull fight was displayed in the Coliseum in 
A. D. 1332. The bulls won the fight, for of all the hundreds 
of gallant youths who entered the arena on that occasion only 
eleven survived. The city, however, gave a gorgeous funeral 
to the dead. The Coliseum was then in ruins very much as 
it is now. 

It has been computed, according to modern prices, that 
the Coliseum brick work alone would be worth $4,000,000, 
and this was a very small part of its cost. 

While Comodus was returning to his palace one night, he 
was met by an assassin in the subterranean passageway above 
mentioned. As the assailant sprang upon the Kmperor he ex- 
claimed : " The Senate sends you this." He killed his assail- 
ant, discovered a conspiracy in his own palace, with his sister 
at its head, and from that time became one of Rome's most 
cruel rulers He called himself the Roman Hercules. All 
his statues make him carry a club and no other arm. He 
fought in the arena seven hundred and thirty-five times. He 
killed from his Imperial seat in the Coliseum one hundred 
lions with one hundred shots from his bow. He was at last 
drugged by a prostitute and strangled by a slave. The last 
gladiatorial combat in the Coliseum was in A. D. 404, when 
a Christian monk sprang into the arena and in the name of 
Christ separated the combatants. He was stoned to death. 

The debris from Rome, and alluvium, have changed the 
course of the Tiber. What was once its bed is now a part of 
the town, and in appearance is as ancient as the oldest part of 
the city. The Tafpeian Rock has had seventy feet of its 
top quarried off, and has been filled up at its base fully fifty 
feet ; it is still about seventy feet high. Many of the most 
renowned ruins have been converted into churches. After 
Rome became Christian, and during the Middle Ages many 



Rome. 121 



old temples were pulled down and pillaged to build and orna- 
ment Christian churches. Constantine robbed it to decorate 
his new capital. The Forum has been partly excavated and 
restored to its ancient level. The old level was found to be 
from fifteen to thirty feet below what was formerly supposed 
to be the proper floor of the Forum. The floor level of the 
old theatre of Marcellus has been found to be fully thirty feet 
under ground. It is the oldest theatre in Rome and would 
seat 28,000 spectators. Its walls are still well preserved. The 
old Latin quarter has been almost entirely torn down. An 
old fish market has been discovered with beautiful marble 
slabs which have been ruthlessly torn from some neighboring 
palace to make tables upon which to clean fish. 

Rome was formerly subject to disastrous inundations from 
the overflow of the Tiber. This is being corrected by widen- 
ing the river. Two new arches, one on each side of the river, 
have been added to one of the oldest bridges of Rome. The 
river has been widened to the extent of the two new arches. 
The ugly and irregular old river wall is now being pulled down 
and a magnificent new one erected in its place. In a short 
time the Tiber will flow between walls as beautiful as those 
of ancient Babylon, the Biblical type of Rome. 

Instead of a sleepy old pile of ruins I find Rome a beauti- 
ful, well-built, well-paved modern city. It has a population 
of near 400,000 inhabitants. Its citizens look very much like 
the people of Philadelphia. Its fashions are like ours. Its 
modern improvements, street railways, hotel elevators, cabs 
and stores are very much like our own. The common people 
of Rome seem more cruel to their domestic animals than the 
same class are in our country. They overload their horses and 
donkej^s and use the whip much more freely than would be 
permitted in America. I observe, however, that this is to b 
corrected. The government has recently chartered a " Society 
for the prevention of Cruelty to Animals. " In a word, Rome 
is a modern city built upon and out of the ruins of an ancient 
one. The material used for building purposes is chiefly stone, 
very abundant here. Brick, however, is much used and was 
the material most employed by its ancient builders. The old 
city walls, in many places, were built of brick. I have not 
seen a red brick house in Rome. Both stone and brick houses 
are, as a rule, plastered with cement and painted a mellow 
5^ellow color, like most continental cities. A striking pecu- 
liarity of Rome is the great size of its houses. Most of the 
dwelling houses are six stories high, and in outward appear- 
ance there is little difference between the dwellings of the rich 
and the poor. When you take a peep at the inside the diflfer- 
ence is but too apparent. Every room contains a family. 



P22 ROMF, 



The family washing is seen hanging on the balcony to dry. 
There are no carpets on the floors, the kitchen, bedroom, par- 
lor, and often the workshop, are in the same room. I doubt 
whether the Romans have any adequate idea of an English or 
American home. There are some very fine stores in the city^ 
well managed and doing a prosperous business.. The place is 
full of artists, painters, sculptors and workers in mosaic, musi- 
cians and archaeologists. The amount of money annually 
poured into the lap of the world's Old Mistress, is enormous. 
The city is now full of pilgrims, travelers, pleasure -seekers ^ 
students and loungers in high life who have nothing to do but 
to see or hear something new. All leave their little contribu- 
tions. I have been ten days in Rome and have left about four 
hundred dollars here, I met a Philadelphia gentleman yester- 
day who spent three thousand dollars in two months for works 
of art here. This will partly account for the wonderful pros- 
perity of the city. A visit to the galleries of the sculptors and 
painters is always free, Like the spider and the fly, it is very 
easy to get in but very difficult to get out without leaving an 
order for your portrait, bust, or some pleasing work of art. 
Twelve hundred francs ($240) will pay for a highly finished 
life-size bust of any one ambitious to have his features pre- 
served in marble for the admiration of future generations. 

The hotels of Rome are equal to any in the world. We 
are staying at the " Continental, " It is six stories high, has 
a front of 270 feet and a depth of 150 feet. It occupies the 
entire square with a fine wide, well-paved street all around it. 
The cost of hotel life is about the same as in Philadelphia, 
certainly not less in the first-class hotels. 

I was particularly struck with the display of military 
strength not only here but everywhere on the continent. Sol- 
diers are constantly parading the streets, not in their holiday 
uniforms, but dressed in fighting trim, with knapsacks and all 
the accoutrements of actual war. They are required to march 
twenty miles every day, go through the regular drill and spend 
the balance of the day upon the fortifications. There is no 
such thing as playing soldier here. The constant movement 
of troops and the transportation of cannon and munitions of 
war reminds me of our own war time. There is a very uneasy 
feeling at this time all over Europe. Italy has a fine navy 
and a very efficient though not very large army. On our 
journey here, I noticed the erection of new earthworks and 
the strengthening of old ones all along the frontier of Germany ^ 
Belgium and Italy. I never saw such fortifications as are 
being constructed around Metz, I would not be surprised if 
the smothered fire of former struggles should soon burst into 
a blaze of war again. Nothing but the general alarm and 



Roman Villas, 123 

preparation for the struggle will prevent it. The nation that 
applies the match to the combustible material will take upon 
itself a most terrible responsibility. 

Rome is not only full of objects of interest within its 
walls, but is aLso surrounded with most charming scenery- 
without. The villas of Rome are world-renowned. The word 
villa, without explanation, will convey a very imperfect idea. 
It means the country seat of some rich Roman I^Ord. Some 
of them contain many hundred acres of most beautifully orna- 
mented and decorated grounds, with splendid drives, gardens 
and parks, fountains and statuary. Each contains the palace 
of the owner, and they are generally open to the public. The)' 
are enchanting places for an bour'.s rest and recreation, and 
most of them without the city walls ; there is no long drive 
over cobble stones to reach them. The palaces are full of 
works of ancient and modern art ; many of them have fine 
collections of Roman antiquities dug up from the grounds of 
the villa. In these parks and gardens, and in the drives and 
carriage-ways leading to and through them, the rich and royal 
citizens of Rome spend their leisure hours. It was my good 
fortune to meet the King twice and the Queen four times in 
the villas around Rome. 

Rome cannot yet be said to be a healthy city ; it has very 
much improved in its sanitary condition within a few years. 
The excavation of so much rubbish must necessarily let loose 
unhealthy gases confined, perhaps, for hundreds of years. 
About the first of June the unhealthy season begins. In mid- 
summer most of the citizens leave the city. The fleas have 
already begun to invade the hotels ; they are very annoying ; 
they are brought into Rome by the shepherds and goatherds. 
A mosquito bite is nothing to a flea in your bed. 

The King and Queen left Rome yesterday, so the fashion- 
able season may be considered as over. I will write again before 
I leave the city for Naples, where I intend to spend a week. 



XXIX, 



Traveling and Romance — Past Glory of Rome — - 
Wealthy Citizens— Population — Penalty for Propos- 
ing New liAws— How to See Rome— A School Girl's 
Idea of Rome— Four Hundred Churches— — Pious 
Frauds— The Black Virgin— ^ A Wonderful City. 

Rome, May, 1888. 
Nothing takes the romance out of life like traveling. It 
requires all the sentiment we can command to keep up our 



124 Roman Antiquities. 

preconceived notions of the enchantment supposed to linger 
around sacred places and among the relics of antiquity. When 
we travel the same ground over which Paul and Peter walked, 
and stand where Cicero delivered his orations ; when we look 
on the very spot where the martyrs died, where great Caesar 
fell, or where the gladiators fought and shed their blood to 
make a Roman holiday, one would suppose a thrill of rever- 
ence for the place would inspire our souls ; but the experience 
of all travelers is the same. Our romantic anticipations all 
disappear. We find the sacred places of history so much like 
other parts of the world, so busy with the commonplace affairs 
of life, so unlike what we expected to see, and so full of false 
traditions and nonsensical legends as to inspire feelings of 
disappointment and disgust rather than of reverential awe. 
But, with all her extravagant inventions and pious frauds, 
there is a charm still lingering around the undoubted remains 
of the greatest city of the Old World. The evidence of her 
lost glory lies all around, but the means of travel and rapid 
communication are now so great that distance no longer lends 
enchantment to the view. While, therefore, the antiquities 
of Rome are greatly instructive as illustrating history and 
giving us a correct idea of life two or three thousand years 
ago, they cannot be said to add to our veneration for its lost 
civilization, or inspire regret for the fall of a power too mighty 
for the general happiness of mankind. 

Rome was certainly a wonderful city. It was but thirteen 
miles around its walls, but the villas and suburbs extended for 
many miles outside, and entirely around its walls. After her 
many disasters, in the time of Justinian, she could put into 
the field, fully equipped, 30,000 soldiers. Fourteen rivers 
emptied into the city by aqueducts. Some of the aqueducts 
were thirty-eight miles long. The city could be flushed at 
any time. 

When Alaric sacked the city in A. D. 410, Gibbon says, 
it contained 1780 private palaces. Each of these palaces was 
a little city. They each had their private theatres, hippo- 
dromes, temples, baths, porticoes, groves and gardens. The 
annual income of some of the citizens was nearly $1,000,000. 
Some of their single feasts cost over $200,000. There were 
private aqueducts which brought rivers into their villas. It 
had a population of 2,000,000 within its walls, and at least 
3,000,000 without the walls. iVt some of the games there 
would be 400,000 spectators. 

To govern such a city must have required great power and 
eternal vigilance. They had one good law which should be 
adopted in America. They hung the proposer of every new 
law that failed to pass. 



How TO See Rome. 125 

We conclude that the ancient Romans were very much 
like ourselves, with the same passions, pleasures, likes and 
dislikes that we have. They had their scholars and their sim- 
pletons, wise men and fools, rich men and beggars, lawyers 
and clients, merchants and farmers. In the early history of 
Rome a farmer was a gentleman. But as she advanced in 
wealth and power the farmers became poor, and Cincinatus 
was supplanted by the Vanderbilts and Goulds of Rome. 
They soon wrecked the State as they will every other State 
where they thrive and grow rich on the sweat and toil of the 
tillers of the soil. I left Rome with regret, but I believe I 
have seen it more perfectly than most travelers of a fortnight's 
stay. Many visitors of Rome leave it after a few days, sup- 
posing they have seen it. Such visitors are always disap- 
pointed and speak of it as a pile of old ruins, broken columns 
and cracked walls, full of splendid churches and ecclesiastical 
palaces. 

Professor L^eslie told us a good story of a school girl's 
idea of Rome. She was on her return voyage after a tour of 
Europe to complete her education. The passengers were dis- 
cussing the interesting cities they had seen and by consensus 
of opinion agreed that Rome was the most interesting place 
in the world. Turning to her father, she said : " Pa, were 
we at Rome?" The old gentleman rubbed his eye-glasses 
and examined his diary for a while, and replied : " O, yes ; 
don't you remember the big church named after Peter, and 
the burned theatre they called the Colossus of Rome ? (He 
meant the Coliseum). Nothing worth seeing ; we only stopped 
there for the eclat of the thing." 

It is impossible to fairly comprehend Rome in less than 
two weeks most industriously spent with the assistance of a 
carriage and good guide. Even to a person able to speak 
French or Italian, a guide well versed in the antiquities of the 
city is essential. More precious time will be wasted in wand- 
ering from place to place and in doubling your routes than 
would pay for two guides. 

To persons intending to visit Rome, I would say, before 
you start re-read "Gibbon's Decline and Fall of the Roman 
Empire. " Then procure a good map of the city and make 
yourself familiar with its topography and the nomenclature of 
its streets. Upon arriving, procure an educated guide — there 
are several here ; with his aid, a good carriage, and two weeks 
industriously spent, with six hours a day, you will have a fair 
conception of what the ancient city was. As to the modern 
city, you need give it but little attention. It is just like most 
other European towns. You should first drive around the 
city, within and without its walls, and take a general glance 



126 Historic Places. 



at the outside of its historic places and buildings. Then com- 
mence a systematic internal exploration. You must not for- 
get that the remains of Roman art are only to be found within 
the three or four hundred churches of the city. Some of these 
churches are ugly and repulsive in external appearance, but 
on entering them you will be surprised and amazed at their 
internal splender, almost invariably made up from old heathen 
temples which were stripped to decorate the early Christian 
churches. You must also remember that all you see is what 
the plunderers of Rome did not consider worth carrying away. 
You must also not forget that it required three hundred years 
for Rome to die after she had received her death wound, and 
that she had been burned, pillaged and torn down by her con- 
querors, and the nations of Europe had enriched their muse- 
ums from her works of art before these churches were erected 
out of what remained. Yet enough has been left to strike us 
with wonder. I believe I have fairly seen Rome, and I think 
I can reasonably comprehend what the ancient city must have 
been. If we find a broken column of jasper, or a fragment of 
some finely chiseled statuary we can, with reasonable certainty, 
reconstruct both and form a fair conception of what the origi- 
nal was like. So, looking upon what remains of the ancient 
city, and making allowances fjr what has been destroyed and 
carried away, we can reconstruct its temples, its forum, its 
palaces, gardens and baths. We can stand by Pompey's 
statue and see the place where great Caesar fell. We can oc- 
cupy the spot where Antony delivered his funeral oration. 
We can mount the rostrum where Cicero made his speeches. 
We may stand on the Tarpeian Rock, enter the coliseum, sur- 
vey the place of the Amphitheatre where so many Christians 
were given to the flames and to wild beasts while the Roman 
spectators howled with joy. We may walk through the home 
of Nero and the halls of the Caesars, and out to the place 
where Paul was beheaded and where Peter was crucified, and 
down in the catacombs and prisons where the early Christians 
were confined and slain. We can look at buildings, bridges 
and old city walls, forts and fortifications two thousand three 
hundred years old, and then we can form some idea of ancient 
Rome. 

I have seen them all, and have visited about thirt^^ of the 
most interesting churches of the city. I have also been per- 
mitted to enter fifteen palaces and villas, rich with statuary 
and painting. I have seen every work of art of importance in 
the city as well by ancient as modern masters. I have been 
able to compare, in my own humble way, the work of Praxi- 
tiles and Phidias with that of Conova and Michael Angelo. 
I have also seen all the magnificent presents sent to the Pope 



Pious Frauds. i 27 

from the crowned heads of the globe, as well as from individu- 
als, all over the world. I have seen the World's Fair at Phil- 
adelphia and Viennci, and I affirm without fear of contradic- 
tion b}' those \^ho have seen these splendid displays, as well 
as the exhibition of the presents to the Pope, that his outshine 
the other two and throw them both into the shade. This is 
saying very much, but it is the truth. After spending two 
daj^s in a hurried walk through the exhibition buildings I felt 
as I suppose the Queen of Sheba felt when she saw the glory 
of Solomon, and like her I was constrained to say, " The half 
was never told. " 

The above record of what I have seen in Rome is a mere 
index. Volumes would not fully describe the interesting and 
beautiful things I have gazed upon while sojourning in that 
wonderful city. I have also seen some things which have 
given me pain rather than pleasure. I have no patience with 
the perpetrators of pious frauds, and I am sorry to say Rome 
has many of them. They show in one of the churches what 
the monks affirm is a miraculously preserved corpse of a monk 
who died 178 years ago. You are not permitted to approach 
nearer than about one foot of the coffin. It is a most excel- 
lent piece of wax work. In another church they show 5'ou a 
spring of oil. In another, the chains with which Peter and 
Paul were bound, which they allege miraculously linked them- 
selves together when by accident they came in contact with 
each other. At the place where Paul was beheaded they show 
three springs of water which they affirm sprung up as soon as 
the old saint's head struck the ground. In the prison where 
Paul and Peter were confined before their execution, they 
show the print of Peter's face in the hard stone, which they 
allege was caueed by a blow from the keeper of the jail which 
caused Peter to fall with his face against the wall, when the 
wall became as soft as wax and left the impression of his face 
there which has remained ever since. These are all pure in- 
ventions of the Middle Ages. The monks give you a quizzi- 
cal look while repeating the stories.. The Italian people, how- 
ever, are very intense in all their passions and feelings as w^ell 
religious as secular. They are most devoted Christian believ- 
ers, and are much to be admired for their religious faith and 
fervor. Christianity made its first great conquest of the world 
at Rome and, if it ever dies, its last death struggle will be 
there. 

I was very much surprised to learn that there are many 
devoted Catholics in Rome who believe the Virgin Mary was 
black. They exhibit in one of the churches her portrait, said 
to have been painted by St. lyuke. It is only exhibited once 
a year. I, however, induced the custodian of the picture to 



1 28 Rome to Naples. 



show it to me. It is a very ancient looking painting. It rep- 
resents the Holy Virgin as an Ethiopian of a very dark copper 
color. I have no faith in the assertion that it was painted by 
St. lyuke. It is perhaps an old Egyptian painting b)^ some 
artist among the early Christians of that country. I would 
like to say much more about Rome but I fear I am making 
my letters too long. 



XXX 



Rome to Naples — I/Ast IvOok at St. Peter's — A Night 
Scene in the Coliseum — A Roman Bath — • Ancient 
Rome Contrasted with Rome in the XVth Century — 
Roman Justice in 1420 — Naples — The Duchess of 
Edinburgh — Sights in the Streets — Fleas, L-ice and 
Beggars — A Visit to Vesuvius 's Crater^Grotesque 
Forms of I^ava — A Painter's Idea of Hell^Capri 
and the Blue Grotto. 

Naples, May, 1888. 
Although in Naples, my thoughts still linger around 
Rome. I feel that I have not done justice to the grand old 
city. Just before my departure we were permitted to visit the 
palace of the brother of the Pope (Palaza Barberini). It con- 
tains many gems of art by Raphael and Guido Reni, besides 
about 7,000 rare manuscripts. It is a magnificent sitructure, 
built by Urban VIII. 

Before quitting Rome, perhaps forever, I took a last look 
at St. Peter's. Every time I see it its beauties multiply and 
its greatness increases. Yet it is said that of its seven hun- 
dred columns, and thousands of pilasters and monuments, 
statuary and reliefs, no new marble was employed in its con- 
struction. All was brought from the ruined temples, baths 
and palaces of ancient Rome. When we remember that Alaric 
pillaged the city A. D. 410 ; and that Attila sacked it A. D. 
445 ; and that it was almost totally destroyed by the Goths A. 
D. 546 ; that for hundreds of years it was robbed of all that 
was considered worth carrying away ; that eighty of the most 
splendid churches of Rome had been built and adorned with 
their columns of jasper, porphyry and beautiful marbles, statu- 
ary and works of art from the ruins of the old city, and that 
there was yet enough left to build and decorate this most im- 
posing of all the buildings of the world, we can form some im- 
perfect idea of what the ancient city must have been. 



The Coliseum AND Baths. 129 

Although we received all our ideas of equity jurispra- 
dence from the administration of justice in ancient Rome, it 
would seem from the records of its courts that its high charac- 
ter for justice must have degenerated. In 1420, a case is re- 
ported in which the question was the ownership of a beauti- 
ful statue of Pompey. It had been found buried many feet 
under the earth, with all but the head on the land of the 
finder. The head was over the line, and on a neighbors land. 
The court decided that the head should be sawed off and be 
given to the owner of the land on which it lay, and the bal- 
ance should go to the owner of the land on which it was found. 
If the Pope had not interfered the sentence would have been 
carried out. He directed the statute to be sold and the pro- 
ceeds divided in a fair proportion between the litigants. 

The night before leaving Rome there was a grand illumi- 
nation of the Coliseum. I suppose there were at least two 
thousand persons in the arena. We may imagine what it was 
when 80,000 spectators were present. The effect ofthedifier- 
ent colored lights and Roman candles was very beautiful. 
One could almost see the immense audience file in and take 
their seats around the tiers, rising almost, in appearance, to 
the stars. We could imagine the Emperor seated under his 
purple canopy, and hear the roar of the wild beasts ready to 
spring into the arena, or the clash of swords as the gladiators 
fought, and the howl of the infuriated spectators for the blood 
of the vanquished. It is aflBrmed by historians that at the dedi- 
cation of the Coliseum no less than ten thousand men and five 
thousand beasts were killed in the arena to make a Roman 
holiday. 

"When falls the Coliseum Rome shall fall 
And when Rome falls, the world. " 

I do not remember having described an ancient Roman 
bath. You have often heard of these luxuriant palaces of re- 
freshment and pleasure, but few have any correct idea of their 
voluptuous splendor or gigantic proportions. When you learn 
that a river had to be brought into Rome to supply one of 
them with water, and that 1000 bathers could swim in one 
apartment at the same time ; that one of them covered an area 
of 2,628,000 square yards ; that one of the most beatitifuL 
churches (St. Mary of the Angels) has been formed by Michael 
Angelo out of one of the apartments of the bath of Diocletian,, 
and that the Pantheon, with its lofty dome and circular wall 
twenty-five feet thick, is but an old Roman bath room, with a 
facade and columns added to make it a church, you will have 
a faint conception of the meaningof the word " Roman bath." 
The Pantheon was built 2^ B. C. The baths of Caracalla 
A. D. 212. 



30 The Fall OF Rome. 



Before quitting Rome, I would like to saj^ a word about 
her fountains. No city in the world, according to its size, 
'has more water emptied into it than Rome. Its fountains are 
constructed on an immensel}'- grand scale. The water is 
brought from mountain rivers by aqueducts and is poured 
out in most lavish extravagance into the open squares of the 
cit3^ The fountains are decorated with colossal statuary ; 
-Neptune, the Tritons, great sea horses, grand cascades of rock 
work and immense stone basins, over which the water rolls 
and dashes in the wildest profusion and refreshing beauty. 
It is said that it requires as much water as the Seine daily 
discharges into the sea to supply the fountains of Rome, This 
lavish supply of water is supposed to add very much to the 
health of the people of the city. I would like to say much 
more of Rome but I fear I shall weary my readers. 

No sterner lesson of the transitory nature of human glory 
can be taught than in the fall of this great empire. In the 
sixth century, Rome had dwindled from 5,000,000 to a few 
thousand miserable wretches, too poor to get away. At that 
time the bones of St. Peter and St. Paul were supposed to be 
discovered and it at once became a place of pilgrimage and 
began to increase ; yet in 1709, after over one thousand years, 
it only contained about 140,000 Christians and 10,000 Jews. 

The tomb of Hadrian was once cased with white marble 
from Paros and was ornamented with statues of gods and great 
men, the work of Phidias and Praxiteles. Belisarius con- 
verted it into a citadel and so it still remains. 

Gibbon speaks of the fall of Rome as the most awful 
scene in the tragedy of the world. The empire that had 
ruled the world for so many centuries, was reduced in 1425 to 
a small piece of territory around Constantinople fifty miles 
long by thirty miles wide. 

Farewell to Rome. I feel I shall never look upon its like 
again, but I shall never forget the pleasure I have enjoyed 
during the two weeks so profitably spent within its walls. 

The distance from Rome to Naples, measured by time on 
the fastest express trains, is about seven hours. The railroad 
follows very nearly an old Roman highway. It traverses a 
rich valley, skirted by beautiful mountain scenery. Here, 
too, we find women and young girls hard at work cultivating 
the fields. After a few miles out of Rome the mountains 
become very barren, with scarcely a green spot to give a smile 
to their hard rocky faces. The soil of the valle}^, however, 
is rich and red, full of vines, olive, fig and orange trees, with 
here and there a garden of roses. As we approach Naples 
the mountains become softer and more like high, undulating 
hills, something like the scener}^ around York and Gettysburg, 



\ 



Naples. i 3 r 

Pa. We pass towns four hundred years older than our 
Christian era, and vineyards of whose excellence Horace sung. 
The vines are festooned from tree to tree, presenting a very 
pretty appearance. About forty miles from Naples we catch 
the first view of Vesuvius ; a few miles further and we see the 
Mediterranean and, before we know it, arrive in the suburbs 
of the city. I was disappointed in the size of Naples. It is 
a much larger town than it appears to be on the first view. It 
is said to contain about 700,000 inhabitants, which would 
make it, in population, as large as Philadelphia. In territo- 
rial limits it does not seem more than about one-fourth as 
large. There is nothing very remarkable about Naples except 
its world-renowned bay, beautiful isles and grottoes, and its 
ever-threatening Vesuvius on the one hand, compared with its 
vermin, beggars and bad smells on the other. The city has 
very extensive barracks and is now full of soldiers. We are 
quartered at the Hotel du Vesuve, facing the bay, and the 
best hotel in the cit}'. As evidence of this assertion it will 
only be necessary to say that the daughter-in-law of Queen 
Victoria, the Duchess of Edinburgh, has a suite of rooms and 
is boarding at the same hotel and on the same floor. We are 
trying to keep up the dignity of our country you see. The 
Duchess is a fine looking, well-formed, rather stout woman 
and is said to be very exacting in her demands for royal atten- 
tion. She is not a beautiful woman but has a very proud, 
majestic air, and walks as the daughter of the Czar ought to 
carry herself. I have made it a rule to lodge only at the best 
hotels. My experience is that it is cheapest in the long run 
to do so. We are less liable to imposition and get much bet- 
ter attention. What one loses in money he gains in comfort. 
If I were traveling alone, however, or only with gentlemen, I 
would select less expensive hotels. When traveling with 
ladies it is safest to choose the best. 

The best hotel in Naples is not free from fleas. The 
cows and goats are brought into the town to sell the milk and 
insure it from adulteration . The consequence is that while the 
citizens get pure milk the town is filled with fleas. The water 
here is not very good. As a natural consequence the people 
are great wine drinkers, yet I have seen no drunken men. I 
have seen sights, however, in the streets of Naples more dis- 
gusting, if possible, than drunkenness. Such as half-naked 
men and women ; children often, of both sexes, naked ; men 
and women amusing themselves on a " flea hunt," or crack- 
ing nits and searching each other's heads for vermin. It is 
no uncommon sight to find men taking a quiet nap on the 
sidewalk, or to find them in the open street answering all the 
calls of nature with perfect nonchalance. The streets and 



132 Mt. Vfisuvias. 



public places are cursed with beggars who are permitted to 
run after your carriage screaming and yelling for assistance, 
while exposing their running sores or the deformity of their 
persons. Some of the sights above described are only seen in 
-the old parts of the city, but the beggars are everywhere. 

The three most interesting excursions from Naples are to 
Vesuvius, Pompeii and Capri, each requiring a separate day. 
The visit to Vesuvius with ladies is expensive. Besides twen • 
ty-eight francs for your fare and guide, they charge twent}- 
five francs for a sedan to carry each lady to the top of the 
-cone. The greater part of the ascent is made Dy a steam ele- 
vator or railway on an angle of about forty-five degrees. The 
mountain is over four-thousand feet high. From the edge of 
the cone, which is so hot as to burn your feet, the sight into 
the crater is perfect. It resembles an immense iron foundry 
or cauldron one hundred yards in diameter, boiling, bubbling 
and seething with molten rock. Every few seconds it gives 
what sounds like a dying groan, the mountain trembles and 
then from the whole boiling crater stones and lava are thrown 
up two or three hundred feet, falling around the edges of 
the cone and thus constantly increasing the height of the 
mountain and depth of the crater till the weight of the cone 
becomes too heavy for the molten mass below, then the whole 
falls in and a great eruption is the consequence. The smell 
of sulphur is almost suffocating. The top of the cone is yel- 
low with it. The lava falls around you red hot. When a piece 
falls near you a penny can be pressed into it which soon also 
becomes red hot. I gave mj^ guide a franc to press a penny 
from my own poeket into a chunk of lava which fell some 
twenty feet from where I stood. I could light my cigar with it 
several seconds afterwards. I confess that I felt very much as if 
I were looking down the chimney of pandemonium and taking 
my first, and I hope my last peep into the infernal regions. 

To me, the most remarkable thing I saw was the grotesque 
forms assumed by the lava of the last great eruption. It is 
seen for miles around the sides of the sterile mountain and, at 
a little distance, has the appearance of myriads of naked men, 
serpents, animals and reptiles, twisted and contorted into gro- 
tesque and unnatural shapes, with the monsters and griffins of 
mythology feasting upon the broken and distorted mass. It 
looks as if they had made war upon the mountain, had been 
swallowed whole and, after being half digested, had been 
vomited out and converted into stone. I have never seen or 
read any description of this most remarkable appearance of the 
lava and was, therefore, very much surprised at the spectacle, 
as it was altogether unexpected. I gave a description of it 
to some of the English guests of our hotel, and upon their 



Beautiful Capri. 533 

return next day they all agreed that my description as above 
given was not an exaggeration. I have no doubt but that 
Gustave Dore and Weirtz got some of their weird and gro- 
tesque illustrations from the forms represented by the lava of 
Vesuvius, It called to my mind a life-size painting of im- 
.'mense proportions I saw upon the wall of the Campo Santo at 
Pisa. It was intended to represent the last judgment, and 
gave us the painter's idea of hell, Satan, in the form of an 
enormous red hot monster, sat in the center, devouring the 
damned as they tumbled headlong into his open jaws. He 
was transparent from heat. The process of digestion could be 
discovered, and the half-devoured limbs could be seen seeking 
their disjointed sockets and renewing their former forms, only 
to be devoured and torn to pieces forever, I have no doubt the 
painter thought his picture would strike terror to all behold^ 
ers.' They had no Beechersthen to rob hell of its terrors. 

The drive from Naples to Vesuvius is very dusty and dis- 
agreeable at this season of the j^ean The weather is very dr}- 
and the winds from the sea keep up a cloud of white limestone 
dust very hard on the eyes and generally disagreeable. 

The next day we visited the " Blue Grotto," on the isle 
■of Capri, about two hours by boat from Naples. It is a very 
■enchanting little place. The island proper is very high and 
rocky, with here and there a little cultivated land and flour- 
ishing vineyards. The wine of Capri is drunk all over Ital}- 
and is accounted very good. 

The grotto is entered from the sea by means of small boats, 
holding about three or four persons. We enter a small hole 
in the form of an arch about three feet high. It is necessary 
to bow the head to get in without striking the crown of the 
arch. The boat almost touches each side as we enter Once 
in a most delightful spectacle breaks upon the sight. It looks 
very much like one of the scenes in the Black Crook, or the 
Naiad Queen. The grotto will hold fifty boats with ample 
room to row about at pleasure. The color of the water cannot 
be described. It looked to me like bright sunlight through 
sapphire. The air within is of a hazy yellow. The water is 
as clear as crystal. The play of the oars makes the water 
sparkle like liquid silver. The voices of the visitors are 
echoed from end to end and f''om vault to vault. The whole 
effect is very fairy like. On our return to the ship little naked 
boys amused us by diving into the sea for pennies thrown over- 
board, which they almost invariably caught in their teeth be- 
fore the penny struck the bottom. 



134 RliriN'S OF POMPKIL 



XXXL 

Naplks to-Messin'A — Last Days of Pompeii — Catania and> 
Mt. ^tna — Messina to Athens — Stromboli — Scylla 
AND Charybdis — The Cholera at Messina — A Jersey- 
man — Italian Ships — Polite Conductors According to 
THE Class of Your Ticket— -Seasick Passengers — A 
Wandering Spakrow — ^The Isles op Greece-— I/Ove and 
Death — The Pi^^.eus— Time's Ruins — The Council of 
Thirty— Old and New Athens— The New Academy — 
A Cosmopolitan City and Deteriorated Race. 

Athens, May, 1888. 
Before leaving Naples we spent a day in the exkumed 
city of Pompeii. In many respects my anticipations were not 
realized- The day was sultry, the dust almost suffocating, 
and the beggars disgustingly persistent and annoying. It 
takes three hours to reach the place by carriage, and about 
two hours to explore the ruins, I am not convinced that the 
city was anything like as rich and luxuriant as it is usually 
painted by travelers. What remains, however, gives a very- 
fair idea of Roman life eighteen hundred years ago. Our 
ideas of the place have been favorably prepared by Bulwer's 
" I^ast T>a.ys of Pompeii." The book, however, I have no 
doubt, fairly portrays Roman life at the time of the destruction 
of the city. Again, only a small part has been excavated. 
The size of its Forum, Bourse, two theatres, municipal build- 
ings and private gardens, would seem to indicate a place of 
considerable importance ; nothing, however, when compared 
with the cities of our day, or the great ones of that period. 
The museum at Naples and the one at Pompeii clearly show 
that the people of the city at the time of its destruction were 
very much like the people of to-day. They had the same 
pleasures and toils, the same trades and professions, merchants 
and farmers. The children had the same t05^s now found at 
our firesides. The men played cards, checkers and chess just 
as our men do and, from the frescoes on some of the walls, did 
many other naughty things practised si/i> rosa to-day. There 
were learned men and refined women in Pompeii, and it had 
its ignorant, egotistical and vulgar ones. From what remains, 
we may fairly judge they managed to extract about as much 
good, and suffered about as much evil from life as we do. 

From Naples we went to Messina, in Sicily, and from 
there to Catania, at the foot of ^tna. The ladies of our party 
are showing signs of weariness, at which I am not surprised. 



Na'ples to MfissmA. 5 31 

They liave never been subjected to such incessant toil, for 
traveling in Europe means toil in its strictest sense- I only 
wonder that they have kept up so well- I hope to give them 
41 little rest at Athens, but I intend to carry out my first de- 
sign and not turn my steps homeward until we have seen 
Constantinople. Messina is a very old city, but contains 
nothing that struck me as unusually iateresting. Perhaps if 
I had visited it before seeing Rome., I might have been able 
to find amusement and instruciion here for a week. As it is 
I shall not stay over a day and a half. 

The journey from Naples was delightfuL The sea was 
like a lake and the scenery around the Bay of Naples was 
exquisitely fine. We came in sight of Stromboli about five 
•o'clock on the morning after embarkation. This island is 
almost a circle and rise>s out of the sea like a cone. It was 
regarded by the ancients as the seat of JBolns. It was consid- 
ered in the Middle Ages as the entrance to purgatory. It is 
'Over three thousand feet high and is one of the volcanoes never 
entirel)' inactive. The island of Volcano could also be plainly 
seen from the ship. It is now in an active state of eruption. 
Mount ^tna can be seen towering like a giant above the other 
mountains of Sicily. It is over ten thousand feet high and is 
always snow-capped, except the cone, which is so hot that the 
snow melts as soon as it falls. It is the loftiest volcano in 
Europe. Tt can only be ascended in summer. One of its 
eruptions destroyed forty towns and from sixty to one hundred 
thousand lives. The last violent eruption was in 1886, when 
it destroyed cultivated fields to the value of one hifndred and 
fifty thousand dollars. The length of the lava stream was 
four miles. The mountain cannot be seen from Messina. In 
passing through the Straits of Messina we see what was for- 
merly known as the rock Scylla, represented in Homer's 
Odyssey as a roaring sea monster On the other side is the 
fabulous Charybdis of the ancients. The ancient poets and 
mariners either drew their terrible stories from their imagina- 
tion, or time and earthquakes have destroyed the rock and 
filled up the whirlpool, for I could not discern the slightest 
trace of either. 

Messina is quite an extensive seaport, beautifull)' situated 
on the sea and backed b}^ mountains. (All Sicily is mount- 
ainous). It has a population of 130,000. Its scenery is said 
to vie with that of Palermo. The cholera last year swept off 
40,000 of its citizens. Since then thej'^ have introduced purer 
water into the city and hope to escape a second visitation of 
the dreadful scourge. 

I was surprised at the purity of the English spoken by 
the chief cook of our hotel. On inquirj" I found he was a 



B36 Ttalfan Politeness. 



genuine Jersej^man from. Newark, and knew more about Plifla- 
delphia and New York than I did. Most .of the attaches 01 
tihe hotels af the continent speak a little Knglish. I have 
made q^uite an important discovery. I find, by speaking very 
slowl}^ and distinctly, and only using words derived from the 
lyatin, I can make myself understood when others who speak 
much better English than I do cannot be understood at all.. 
For instance : I never say I wis^h or I want anything ; I say 
desire. Never say tinderstand, but comprehend. Never say 
begin, but connjieyice^ etc. 

The Italians are a very deliberate people in all their busi- 
ness transactions, and very slow in the performance of all the 
duties of life. If you are in haste you cannot hurry an 
Italian waiter. If you have but five minutes for the boat or 
train, don't trust a cabman or a ferryman. As an illustration 
of Italian slowness^, our ship from Messina to Athens was 
booked to stop at Catania to discharge and take on a part of 
her cargo. We were warned by the captain to be on board 
punctually at 11 A. M. Instead of starting at eleven, the 
ship did not weigh anchor until 5 P. M. A loss of six hours. 
A good stevedore of Philadelphia would have done in two 
hours what these lazy sailors were six hours working at. 

I would not advise my countrymen to travel in an Italian 
ship if one of any other nation can be found. I am sorry to 
say they are not clean. Fleas, bed bugs and other disagree- 
able vermin fill every hole and corner. The officers, however, 
are very polite and courtly in their attention to the passengers 
of the first class. I have noticed, in traveling on the rail- 
roads, a most marked difference in the manners of the railroad 
officials. When you approach the window and ask for a first- 
class ticket, the agent tips his hat and smiles superciliously 
while he waits on you and always calls you Monsieur. A 
second-class ticket is also delivered with common politeness, 
no more. The third-class passengers are scarcely noticed. 
The guard, who is the same as our conductor, approaches the 
window of the third-class car with the abrupt word , " ' Tickets ! ' ' 
The second-class car he approaches with a bow and says, 
*' Please show your tickets." To the first-class passengers he 
always tips his hat and says, " Will the gentleman be pleased 
to exhibit his ticket ?" and after inspection he says, " Thank 
you : sorry to annoy you . ' ' 

Our voyage from Catania was a sad disappointment. Our 
ship was not one-eighth laden. In fact she may be said to 
have sailed on nothing but ballast. The sea was smooth, the 
sky clear ; the sun set behind Mount ^tna most gloriously ; 
the passengers were all happy in anticipation of a two days' 
rest upon the tranquil bosom of the sea. At the table d'hote 



On THE Adriatic. 137 



at 7.30 P. M. all were present and enjoyed a hearty meal. To 
all but the captain and myself it was the last meal for two 
days. In all my travels oy sea, I never encountered anything 
like it. I was, for the first time in my life, nauseated by the 
abominable, unaccountable and absolutely indescribable mo- 
tion of the ship. It was a compound between a roll and a 
pitch, the most sickening motion I ever telt. After two days 
and nights, however, we came in sight of land and found a 
smooth sea again. The passengers began to crawl from their 
berths like ghosts from their graves, and it was not long be- 
fore we were as jolly and happy as when we started. The 
passengers were of different nations — Italians, Greeks, Turks, 
French, Portuguese and English speaking people. It was sur- 
prising how .soon we were able to communicate with each 
other, and it was amusing, after the sea sickness had passed, 
to see the male passengers playing like children at " hide and 
seek, " " knock in and knock out, " and such childlike sports. 
Men, after all, are but children of a larger growth. 

While crossing the Adriatic, two poor little land sparrows, 
evidently blown by the storm beyond their power to return, 
took shelter on the ship. They were nearly exhausted, and 
so hungry and thirsty as to deprive them of all fear of their 
enemy, man. I could have easily caught them as they hopped 
about the deck seeking a crumb here and there or a little rain 
water Jying in the hollow places of the ship. I felt that, like 
myself, they were wanderers and entitled to all the rites of 
hospitality. The}^ nestled about the ship for a day or so, and 
as soon as we sighted land made a rapid flight for the shore. 
Among the steerage passengers was a full-fledged Turk, in the 
costume of his race. He sat cross-legged and smoked a pipe 
with a stem four feet long. During the storm it looked very 
odd to see him with an old English big coat over his gaudy 
Turkish suit. 

As we approached the ' ' Isles of Greece ' ' all my romantic 
fear of the Nymphs and Sirens, who formerly enticed mariners 
to destruction by their sweet music, disappeared. If they ever 
inhabited these barren wastes, I don't wonder that they fed 
upon the unhappy sailors wrecked upon their inhospitable 
coasts, for these rocky crags can certainly afford no food for 
mortals or immortals. The Isles of Greece are apparently 
mountain peaks, peeping out of the sea. So far as their coast 
presentation is concerned, they appear to b..^ entirely sterile. 
Their villages look like mere shelter huts for fishermen. I am 
only speaking from my own observation. There may be very 
rich and fertile fields beyond the range of my vision, but I 
would not like, from present appearances, to be compelled to 
live on one of them as a condition for the gift of them all. 



138 Love and Death. 

Many of the scenes of mythology are laid in these Isles. 
They abound with wild and wierd shades and enchanted grot- 
toes There is a beautiful legend of I^ove and Death getting 
their arrows mixed while sleeping in one of these caverns. I 
remember, when I was younger than I now am, of writing a 
short poem upon this legend. It may not be worth preserv- 
ing but, as we all love our own children, even if they are 
hump-backed and squint-eyed, so I have an affection for my 
own early efforts, even if they are halt and lame. Here is 
the poem : 

THB TWO FRIENDS — I,OVE AND DEATH, 

Love, weary, tki-ew his arrows down 

And went to sleep upon the ground, 

While Deatli. a pleasant hour to spend, 

Lay down to rest beside his friend. 

While thus they passed the hours away. 

Their arrows in confusion lay ; 

Eeath's darts were found in Cupid's quiver, 

And there they must remain forever ; 

For Love and Death are so allied. 

They walk together side by side. 

As Hope is followed oft by Fear, 

The Altar but precedes the Bier ; 

We see together, very often. 

An infant's crib and baby's coffln. 

A funeral toll and marriage bell 

Sound so alike, 'tis hard to tell 

Wtiich gives most anguish to the lieart, 

The shaft of Death, or Cupid's dart. 

For Love and Death are so allied 

They march forever side by side. 

The Piraeus, or seaport of Athens, is a very pretty place. 
The ancients had two harbors here, the war harbor and the 
mercantile harbor. Near here is the supposed tomb of The- 
mistocles, hewn in the rock, but now covered by the water. 
It is almost impossible to conceive how completely nearly all 
the evidence of the former greatness, beauty and strength of 
the Pirccus, as described by ancient writers, has passed away. 
Scarcely a trace of the immense walls from here to Athens is 
to be found. These walls were eighty feet apart and extended 
four miles from the city to the Piraeus, which was then as now, 
the seaport of x\thens. The walls were built of dressed gran- 
ite and were very high and strong. They were intended to 
shelter the army as it passed from the city to the port. It was 
destroyed by Lysander after the defeat of Alcibiades, 405 B. C. 
This same Lysander established the thirty T3^rants, who ruled 
the city with such cruelty that in eight months more citizens 
were put to death than had been destroyed in thirtj^ years of 
war. They ordained the private possession of wealth to be a 
capital crime. The Astors, GouidsandVanderbilts of Athens 
were declared public enemies and their property confiscated 
for the State. 

There is now a railway connecting the place with Athens. 
I preferred, however, to take a carriage and guide, and enter 



First Impressions OF Athens. 139 



Athens by the old road. In two places we saw a trace of the 
ancient wall. This is the dry season ; everything is covered 
with a white dust ; very disagreeable. The Piraeus struck 
me as looking very much like the little harbors of New Eng- 
land, and the general appearance of the country is very much 
like New Hampshire, Rhode Island and Vermont. The hills 
are very rocky, with but very little green grass. Most of the 
rivers are now entirely dry. The flow of water from the rains 
and snow of winter and early spring is said to be very 
abundant, but now scarcely a rivulet is to be seen. Almost 
every trace of the ancient city has disappeared. The new city 
is just like most other modern European towns. It contains 
some very beautiful public and private buildings, among which 
I ma}^ especially name the New Academ)^, one of the most 
graceful and attractive buildings I have seen in Europe. It 
is of pure white marble, partly gilt with gold, and is said to 
be an exact copy of some ancient building. In front it is 
adorned with two lofty marble columns, surmounted with 
finely wrought statues, one of Apollo, the other of Minerva. 
No one can look upon these columns without a feeling of 
pleasure. 

The ruins of the ancient city are much more conspicuous 
than those of Rome for the reason that they are mostly ex- 
posed to full view, and are not hidden or disfigured by modern 
buildings. The site of modern Athens was but a suburb of 
the ancient city. Some of the places of interest are in the 
modern town, but the finest remains are a short distance fur- 
ther south. As in Rome, learned archaeologists are here mak- 
ing new discoveries every day. The treasury of Greece is 
nearly empty, but the government is conducting some very 
expensive excavations, and is being richly compensated by 
startling discoveries. Some splendid pieces of statuary have 
been exhumed and set up in the museum and public squares. 
Until recently Athens had no museum of Antiquities. She 
has supplied the world with ancient statuary and has been 
stripped nearly naked to fill the museums of other lands, but 
she will soon have as rich relics of the past as any other city. 
In my next letter I will be better prepared to describe my im- 
pressions of the place. It is a most remarkably cosmopolitan 
city. We find people here in strange costumes. The streets 
are full of foreigners from Persia, Egypt, Turkey and Syria, 
each wearing the costume of his native land. The language 
is modern Greek. It looks very odd to recognize upon some 
shoemaker's sign, or over the door of a restaurant, such names 
as Demosthenes, Pericles, Aristides, etc. The Grecians seem 
to take great delight in perpetuating the names of the great 
ones of the days of her glory. The disasters of war have 



140 Athenian Climate. 

however, played havoc with the race. The Turk, the Venetian^? 
and the other conquerors of Greece have left their mark upon 
the forms and faces of the present race. There is nothing now 
in the least remarkable in the beauty of the women or strength 
of the men. If anything is to be truthfully said upon this sub- 
ject, I would say the present type of manhood of the modern 
Greeks is something like the mixed Spanish of Mexico and 
South America— much deteriorated by the infusion of strange 
blood. 



XXXII. 

Athe;ns— A Sunburned Traveler — The Parthenon xAnd 
Temple of Theseus— Three Principal Hills — The Old 
City Carried Away — Even the Soil Gone— Groves of 
Daphne — Tombs of Cimon and Themisticles^Prison 
OF Socrates— Acropolis and Site of the Supreme 
Court— Buried Graveyards — Plato's Academy — The 
Places from which Demosthenes and Paul Spoke — 
Stadium and Theatre — False Teachings of Old 
Schoolmasters — Relics from Troy — Bricks Four 
Thousand Years Old— Ancient Evolutionist— Eleu- 
sis— -Salamis — Old Olive Trees— The King's Palace — 
Shinplasters for Money - 

Athens, May, 1888. 
The sun of Italy has given me the complexion of an Arab. 
If I and m}^ friend 'Squire Hazzard were to take a walk to- 
gether through the streets of Athens we would be taken for 
brothers. I am rather proud of my Oriental appearance. 
When I arrive at Constantinople I intend to wear a fez. I 
find I can stand exposure in the sun better than any of our 
party. It is amusing to hear our English fellow-travelers 
complain of the blasted heat. If the Athenians could only 
keep down the disagreeable white dust that floats in clouds and 
covers everything, even the green trees of its parks and gar- 
dens, their city would be rather a pleasant resort for Ameri- 
cans accustomed to the genial rays of our summer sun. I 
have spent a very agreeable week here. The ruins of the 
Parthenon and Temple of Theseus are the best I have yet 
seen. When we remember that these ruins are the remains 
of buildings that were the admiration of the world twenty-five 
hundred years ago, and five hundred years before the period 
of Roman glory, we can but be astonished at their present pre- 
servation. The Temple of Theseus at a little distance looks 



Impressive Ruins, 141 



like a modern erection, not unlike Girard College, but much 
smaller. From the hill Lycabettus, no one would take if for 
a ruin. It was built by Cimon, B. C 470, to the memory of 
Theseus whose ghost is said to have appeared at the battle of 
Marathon and encouraged the Greeks to victory. No cement 
was used in the masonry of these old ruins. The solid marble 
blocks are square, dressed smooth on all sides, so as to present 
a finished inside as well as outside wall. The joints are so 
nicely fitted that a cambric needle cannot now be inserted be- 
tween them. In Grecian architecture there is no arch ; the 
ceiling and roof of their temples is formed by immense marble 
beams, beautifully ornamented, and formerly heavily gilt. 
The most impressive ruins are those on the Acropolis, a hill 
of Athens five hundred feet high, around which the ancient 
city was built. The building of the Parthenon was con- 
ducted under the supervision of Phidias, B. C. 488. Until the 
seventeenth century it stood almost uninjured, when it was 
left in its present condition by an explosion of gunpowder, 
caused by a shell during the siege of the place by the Vene- 
tians in 1687. The top oi the Acropolis was cut off to make 
a plateau for the Parthenon and other buildings erected 
thereon. 

There are three hills from which a splendid view of Athens 
can be had. First, the Acropolis ; Second, Philopappus, four 
hundred and fifty-three feet high, and third, I^ycabettus, nine 
hundred and forty-eight feet high. From the latter hill the 
whole town and country for many miles around, hemmed in 
by mountains and bordered by the sea, can be distinctly view- 
ed. Athens has been so often painted by pen and pencil that 
an attempt by me at a further description would be presump- 
tuous. I shall therefore only note such matters as made a 
special impression on my mind, not mentioned by other trav- 
elers. To me, the most striking thing was the complete disap- 
pearance of even the material with which the ancient city was 
built. With the exception of a few noted ruins, not a stone 
remains of what was once the most beautiful of cities. The 
question naturally follows, what has become of the imperish- 
able part of the old town ? A view of the place suggests the 
answer. The}^ have been carried away by sea and sold for 
building purposes all over the earth. The stones that remain 
of the great four-mile-long walls from the Piraeus to Athens, 
show great labor in their preparation. The rest were carried 
away to build the quays, wharves and seawalls of Venice and 
other Italian seaports. The marble blocks, and even the com- 
mon stone and brick of the houses of the citizens, were well 
worth removing for building purposes. Some of- the broken 
marble statuary has been found built up in common walls in 



!42 Where Paul Preached. 

Rome, The hills upon which the city was built are of reck. 
The leveling of the surface of the rock, for foundations, all 
over the hills, is plainly visible ; but even the earth that formed 
the gardens has been washed away. Small stones, the rocky 
foundations, and broken pottery, are all that is now left. The 
trees that once formed the shady groves, where Plato, Socrates 
and the old Grecian philosophers used to walk and lecture to 
their disciples, have all been cut down, thus leaving the soil 
exposed to the hot sun of summer, the dust and winds, and 
to the wash of winter and spring. In this way hills that 
were once fertile have lost all their soil, and now show noth- 
ing but small stone and a rocky base with scarcely a particle 
of vegetation. 

The Areopagus, where once stood the splendid buildings 
of the Supreme Court of. Athens, is a bare and rugged mass 
of r/^/ck. Steps cut into the stone where the Judges ascended, 
and a few level places cut into the rock for foundations, are 
all that remain to mark the spot where Socrates was tried and 
where Paul preached. Cut into the solid rock, the prison of 
Socrates still remains, because it could not be carried away 
without taking the mountain with it. The same may be s^id 
of the tomb of Cimon. It has been converted to the basest of 
uses by the common people, being in an out-of-the-way place.. 

The Necropolis, a burial place, in its present condition, 
shows the wonderful changes of the past thousand years. Re- 
cent excavations show that the original level of this burial 
place, was, perhaps, thirty or forty feet below the present sur- 
face. The dust, gathered and held by the grass of the ne- 
glected graveyard, and the wash caused by the melting snow 
and heavy rains, have gradually and imperceptibly filled the 
valley to its present level. The excavations show three dis- 
tinct periods of Grecian history. In the deeper excavations 
were found urns, vases, and jars of pottery, which contain the 
ashes and charred bones of the dead, perhaps three thousand 
years old ; then richly chiseled marble urns and statuary, and 
beautiful monuments, marking the resting places of the dead 
of a more luxuriant period ; finally, large marble and stone 
sarcophagi indicating the burial, instead of the burning of the 
dead. 

Everyday new discoveries, throwing new light upon the 
history of the ancient city, are being made. Nothing now re- 
mains of the Academy of Plato but a few columns and some 
broken statuary built into the vegetable garden wall. The 
old well is still there. The place of the grove, where the old 
philosophers walked and talked, is now devoted to the raising 
of cabbages and garden produce for the hungry Athenians of 
this degenerate age. 



Relics from Troy, 143 



Recent excavations clearly prove that Athens, in its 
glor}' , must have been a much larger place thain we, in our 
schoolboy days, were taught. 

The market place, where Paul heard the Stoics and Epi " 
cureans discussing their opposite tenets, would hold perhaps 
40,000 persons. The rostrum, still well marked, where De- 
mosthenes and Pericles by their eloquence fired the Grecian 
heart, would hold perhaps 80,000 persons. There was the 
Stadium, founded by Lycurgus B. C. 350, provided with seats 
for 50,000 spectators to behold the foot-races. The covering 
was of an oval shape, six hundred and fifty feet long by one 
hundred and six feet wide. There was also the Theatre of 
Dion^-sus, recently discovered, built 500 B, C, where ^sch}^- 
lus, Sophocles and Euripides played, which would seat 30,- 

000 spectators. Besides this was the Theatre of Tragedy, and 
many other places of amusement and pleasure, and yet I was 
taught when a schoolbo}^ that Athens, in its greatest glory, 
did not contain over 20,000 inhabitants. At the same time, 

1 was taught that there never was such a place as Nineveh, 
and that Tro}^ was a myth of Homer. 

By special permission we visited the residence of Dr, 
Schliemann and inspected his collection of relics exhumed on 
the plains of Troy, The collection preserved in his own house, 
and in the Museum here, must strike any reasonabl}- acute 
mind with wonder and amazement. He undoubtedly discov- 
ered the true site of that most ancient city ; a city that 
was almost prehistoric when Moses was born. We saw arms, 
tools and ornaments of iron and steel, swords with hilts of 
solid gold, and gems oi the hardest and most precious stones, 
with engravings upon them only legible through a lens of 
considerable power. He took from the sarcophagus of Aga> 
memnon gold coins as sharply stamped as the products of our 
best mints of the present day. A gold chain and pair of brace- 
lets taken from the same tomb, are most exquisitely wrought 
and as fresh and beautiful as if they had been the workmanship 
of yesterday. Every day is throwing new light upon the for- 
gotten past and teaching the world the Bible truth that "there 
is nothing new under the sun," and that man, as we now 
see him, is just what he was in the olden time. Dr. Schlie- 
mann has in his house a brick found by him in Egypt, 
made of the bitumen of the Nile and sun-baked. The straw, 
used to hold the substance together and keep it in form while 
hardening in the sun, is still plainly visible. It is about eleven 
inches long, five-and-a-half inches wide and five inches thick. 
It is about three thousand four hundred years old ; just such a 
brick as the Israelites were compelled to make during their 
captivity in Egypt, 



144 A^' Ancient Evolutionist. 



A most beautiful piece of statuar}^ b}^ the father of 
Praxiteles, wavS recently found. Nothing is left but the arm 
of a female holding a life-sized child of ten or twelve months. 
The child is perfect and as well preserved as if it had been 
chiseled yesterday. 

We visited the famous groves of Daphne, about five miles 
from the city. A few straggling laurel trees are all that is 
left. A miserable looking monastery occupies the site of the 
temple of iVpollo (Pythian). Here and there we see a few 
columns. The others have been carried off ; some of them 
are in the British Museum. 

There must have been a change in the topography of the 
country — the land at the Piraeus has either sunk or the sea 
has raised. The tomb of Themistocles, hewn into the solid 
rock, is now quite covered with water. 

The museum is full of recentl}^ exhumed works of the old 
masters. They are now erecting a new building in which to 
preserve the newly discovered antiquities of the city. The 
statuary of the ancients, say 4000 3^ears old, teaches us that 
the human form was as beautiful and majestic then as its 
best specimens of the present day ; yet I saw in the museum 
here, and also at Naples, a male and female statue of a 
baboon, man-sized, in a sitting posture, cut from granite, of. 
unknown antiquity, found side by side with a perfect speci- 
men of a man and woman, seeming to indicate that the sculp- 
tor intended to hint that they were of the same race. Per- 
haps Darwinianism is not as young a philosophy as we have 
been taught to regard it. The mere fact, however, that some 
old Greek got such a notion in his head is no argument either 
for or against the theory. The lessons taught by the museums 
of antiquity here and in other places are, that all the relics of 
our race indicate man as the same animal in all ages. The 
man of 4000 years ago had the same pleasures and passions 
as his descendant of to-day. The women were as fair, the 
children as lovely, the babes as helpless. They had the same 
toys ; they played chess and checkers 4000 years ago ; they 
gambled and got drunk; they committed the same crimes and 
had the same charities. The probability is that we are much 
inferior to them in some of the essential elments of human 
greatness, and that they were far below us in many scientific 
discoveries. 

We visited the ruins of the second great city of ancient At- 
tica, Eleusis, about twelve miles from Athens. We followed 
very nearly the old sacred road by the groves of Daphne, 
before alluded to. On the way we had a view of the bay 
Eleusis and Salamis where the great naval battles were fought, 
and the Persians were so signally defeated 480 B. C. The 



Marathon and Salamts. I45- 

spot in the opposite mjantain, called to this day Xerxes' seat,, 
is pointed out, and is said to be the place where he had his 
throne erected and where he sat to witness the battle which 
ended so disastrously to his arms. Marathon and Salamis 
were two of the world's decisive battles. We 'enjoy to-day 
the benefits of these heroic strugles for Western civilization. 
Had the result been favorable to the Persians the probability 
is that the manners and customs of the East, including ha- 
rems and seraglios, would now exist in England and America. 

I would like to say more of Athens and of Greece but my 
letters are becoming too prolix. I must curtail them. The 
ruins of Eleusis are only surpassed by those of the Acropolis. 
Excavations made within a few months have exhumed the 
remains of a great city. I found a coin very well preserved 
among these ruins. I have no doubt it is over two thousand 
years old. I quietly put it in my pocket and said nothing 
about it. 

Of the future of Athens I cannot say much. I can see 
but little hope of any great advance from its present state. 
The government is very poor and the land sterile. What was 
spoken of by the ancients as a fertile plain, would not now be 
considered worth culivating for 'farming purposes in America. 
The celebrated olive groves are still here. They show trees 
said to be from six hundred to one thousand years old, but 
they scarcely yield fruit enough to pay for gathering. 

The present condition of the currency of Greece is in a 
deplorable state. Gold is at a premium of thirty-three per 
cent. They cut up their bank notes to make change. The 
king has just left his palace for the country. We were per- 
mitted to visit it and were much pleased with the courtesy 
shown us by the attendants. It is a fairly good dwelling 
house, much surpassed by hundreds of private dwellingg m 
Philadelphia and New York. 



146 Constantinople. 



XXXIII. 

Constantinople— Embarkation on the Continent — ~ 
Bandaged Babes and Evolution — Site of Troy^ — The 
Narrow Dardanelles — Stamboul — Dirt and Dogs — 
Peculiar Fire Regulations— Mohammedan Dislike of 
Repairs— Cruelty to Men and Kindness to Brutes- 
English AS Spoken by the Guides — Three Sundays a 
Week — Sultan's Day— ^I^adies and Eunuchs Back- 
shish— A Self- Righteous Mohammedan's Prayer — 
Superstitions — The Metempsychosis— Street Scenes 
IN Constantinople, 

Constantinople, June, 1888. 
After a rough voyage over the ^gean Sea, in a crowded 
ship, full of fleas, Turks, Greeks, Armenians and a few Eng- 
lish and Americans, most of whom-, always excepting the fleas, 
were very seasick, I found myself safel)^ moored in the Bos- 
phorus, directly opposite the Golden Horn, and under the 
garden walls of the late Sultan's seraglio. Constantinople 
from the ship presented a very pretty appearance. The beauti- 
ful green hills, the harems with their luxuriant gardens, the 
old walls, towers, mosques and minarets, together with the 
soft blue sky and balm}^ bracing air, was in pleasing contrast 
with the white dust, dry sultry air and barren hills of Athens, 
To go by sea from Athens to Constantinople takes about two 
days. We were unfortunate in encountering a strong head 
wind, which not only delayed our arrival but caused the ship 
to roll very much. Of the two or three hundred second-class 
passengers, not one was in European dress. Their costumes 
were as varied as their nationalities. I particularly noticed 
their heavy clothing. They all wore woolen fabrics and dress- 
ed warmer than we would in midwinter. Some had suits of 
sheep skin with the wool next to their own skins ; others had 
great overcoats of goat skin, with the long hair out. They 
wore great turbans and fezes, loose frocks tied in loops around 
their ankles, and had long red, yellow and green sashes wound 
around their waists, in which they carried ugly knives. There 
was not a new suit in the whole party. They ate nothing 
during the voyage but bread which they always carried about 
their persons. They herded together like sheep and lay cud- 
dled up in their big cloaks, or sat cross-legged on the deck, 
smoking long fancy pipes. The place they selected on enter- 
ing the ship they kept till the voyage. was over. Some of them 
never moved for two days except to cut off a slice of bread for 



Man and Monkey. 147 



a meal. On arriving they were very boisterous, and for a full 
hour kept possession of the gangway of the ship while, with 
their greasy and stinking luggage, they disembarked. 

Continental ports, as a rule, have no docks. The ships 
do not come up to the wharf, but anchor a short distance from 
the shoie. . Small row-boats are in waiting at the wharves, 
which, for fixed fees, convey the passengers and luggage to 
and from the ship. In stormy weather it is very inconvenient 
and often dangerous for ladies and nervous persons. I noticed 
among the crowd what I had seen in Naples, babies in the 
warmest weather tightly bandaged in swaddling clothes like 
the Indian papooses, with arms and legs tightly bound up so 
that no part of the babe could move except the mouth and 
eyes. The Darwinians say it was a discovery made by our 
monkey ancestors, by which they straightened their little mon- 
keys and made them grow up as men. They also point out two 
very old pieces of statuary in granite, found in Egypt, of pre- 
historic age, representing a man-sized male and female baboon, 
in a sitting posture which, they say, were worshiped as the 
fathers of our race. But we have the stubborn fact that the 
past five thousand years, so far as the remains of man and his 
works are concerned, have neither improved nor degenerated 
his form, feature, or intelligence. The men of Egypt, Nineveh 
and Troy were just as we find the man of to-day. Perhaps a 
few thousand years hence, when our civilization shall be 
broken up, and our religion has either been perfected or de- 
stroyed, the relics of buried L/Ondon or New York will be dug 
up and be exhibited like those of Egypt and Troy, and our 
times will be spoken of as either an age of barbarism, or, as 
we speak of the age of gold. But I must stop moralizing or I 
will not be able to say anything about Constantinople. 

Everything around the city is intensely interesting, even 
its approaches. Just before entering the Dardanelles we passed 
the site of Homer's Troy. Our ship went very near the shore. 
There was Mount Ida and the hills from which Ajax hurled 
rocks that, 

" Five stroug men in this degenerate age 
uould scarcely Inc. ' 

Further back were the hills upon which Juno and Venus 
sat to view the fight. On the opposite side is the Thracean 
shore where the bodies of the slain were strewn and which 

" Devouring dogs and hungry vultures tore," 

How soon one of our ironclad ships of war would have 
leveled the " impregnable walls !" and with what ease could 
we have bombarded the Grecian camp in Europe, and at the 
same time shelled the city of Troy in Asia. 

As we sailed up the Dardanelles I was surprised to see 



14^ Dogs and Dirt. 

how narrow the channel is which divides Europe from Asia. 
After passing through the Dardanelles, however, it is neces- 
sary to cross the Sea of Marmora before reaching the city of 
Constantinople. The scenery around the city is undoubtedly 
very fine, but the city itself is more beautiful when viewed 
from a little distaace than when saan within its walls. While 
it is the dirtiest and worst paved city in the world (I speak 
only of the old part of the town), it is comparatively a healthy 
place. The first thing I was struck with was the multitude 
of dogs. The city is literally full of them. They lie by 
dozens in the streets. The citizens never disturb or hurt 
them. If two or three feel inclined to take a nap on the side- 
walk, rather than disturb the innocent slumbers of worthless 
•curs, the people get out of their way and walk in the street. 
The dogs have divided the city into districts, and have or- 
ganized themselves into tribes. Each tribe has its own dis- 
trict. If, by chance, or a desire to rove like old Sampson 
among the Philistines, some handsome young pup wanders 
beyond the limits of his district all the dogs of the invaded 
territory rush upon him and, if not reinforced by his own 
tribe, they will kill him in a few minuter. If within reach 
of assistance, a general war between the tribes is the result, 
till the citizens or police interfere and drive each tribe to its ■ 
own particular street. I saw a poor young hound suddenly 
pounced upon by at least twenty infuriated whelps. He 
yelled and cried most piteously. A workman ran among the 
pack and at the risk of being torn to pieces rescued the poor 
indiscreet wretch and carried him tenderly in his arms to his 
own tribe. I could understand this affection for the dogs if 
they were well-bred and beautiful like the dogs of our coun- 
try ; but I did not, among the thousands of the city, see one 
well-bred dog. They are the commonest mongrels, but few 
lop-eared, and mostly wolfish looking curs. 

The city, in the old district of Stamboul, is largely built 
of wood and is subject to great fires, yet they have no muni- 
cipal fire department. All the city government does is to 
maintain a few towers for watchmen to give the alarm when 
a fire breaks out. Then the private fire companies, consisting 
of ten or fifteen men turn out with a portable engine without 
wheels, about half the size of the old one stored away as a 
curiosity at the I^azaretto. They are carried by four men 
who rush through the streets yelling fire ! fire ! as loud as 
they can scream. When they arrive at the scene of conflagra- 
tion they coolly look at the flames till the owner makes a bar- 
gain with them for their services, or the proprietors of ad- 
joining houses secure their aid to save their homes from de- 
struction. 



Mohammedan Customs, 149 



It is a peculiarity of the Mohammedans never to repair 
anything. They build beautiful palaces and let them fall into 
dilapidation for the want of attention. When they get too 
leaky for habitation they abandon them for new ones They 
never repair their houses and only, from necessity, put in a 
new pane of glass. The same may be said of the streets and 
bridges. 

While the Turks are remarkably kind to domestic ani- 
mals, birds and insects, they have very little regard for their 
fellow-men. They put saddles on the backs of men and bur- 
den them with loads we would hesitate to put upon a horse. 
I hired a porter for forty cents to take my luggage from the 
boat to my hotel. It consisted of seven pieces. To my sur- 
prise he put on his saddle and had a comrade to pile the 
whole lot upon his back, which he carried a half mile without 
a grunt. They carry great loads of marketing and coal and 
wood about the streets for sale. The only nations of the East 
not represented in Constantinople are China and Japan. Not- 
withstanding the Babel of tongues and general mixture of na- 
tions, one feels more at home here than in any other conti- 
nental city. Knglish is spoken in the hotels, and French is 
used in almost all the shops. 

The Sultan goes from the old seraglio to his new palace, 
through the city, once a year. It happened that the time 
fixed for the journey was the first Friday after our arrival. 
Business on that day was suspended along the proposed route. 
To make the streets smooth for His Majesty's carriage, gravel 
was hauled and spread over them three or four inches thick. 
As a consequence the tramway could not be used. I proposed 
to my guide to take a ride on the tramway. His answer was, 
" The tramway no walk to-day; this is Sultan's day ; burn 
much powder gun " This is a sample of the English spoken 
by the guides. He meant that because of the Sultan's journey 
over the street the tramway would not run and that the day 
would be celeb-ated by the firing of cannon. 

They have three Sundays here. The Mohammedan Sab- 
bath, (Friday); the Jewish Sabbath, (Saturday), and the Chris- 
tian Sunday. Sunday is more generally observed here than 
in other European cities, except in Scotland. The population 
of the city is fully one million, one-half of whom are Chris- 
tians. There are about 100,000 Jews ; the balance are Mo- 
hammedans. The Jews close their shops on Saturday. On 
Sunday nearly one-half of the stores were shut. This speaks 
well for the Christians of Constantinople. 

For some reason the Sultan saw proper to disappoint his 
people in making his journey through the city. The streets 
had been prepared at great expense and soldiers were 



150 Mohammedan Customs. 

stationed at all the cross streets. The scene was very much like 
the crowd on Chestnut Street when General Grant returned 
from his trip around the world, except that the costumes were 
as many as the people. The ladies of the harem passed in 
carriages, guarded by strapping big black eunuchs on horse- 
back, in gaudy uniforms. We were permitted to peep at the 
fair ones in the carriages, but staring is not permitted under 
penalty of the whiplash of the eunuch across your face. Some 
of the ladies were as white as milk, others bronze and some 
almost black. The Sultan's mother rode in a carriage alone 
and amused herself by throwing small coins to the crowd 
of beggars that ran after her with outstretched hands crying 
" backshish, backshish. ' ' When a piece of money was thrown 
out there was a general scramble and rough and tumble strug- 
gle for the coin. Some great personage, on a white horse, 
with a purse in his hand, would take from his wallet a small 
coin, hold it up between his fingers, and when the crowd 
would surround his horse so that he could not move, he would, 
bestow the coin on one of the crowd selected by himself, and 
then gallop off with a look of great satisfaction, only to repeat 
the stupid farce again. All the alms bestowed with so much 
display did not exceed ten dollars. 

They have ho hospitals or almshouses in Constantinople. 
The blind, halt and lame must depend upon private charity 
or starve. They feed dogs and birds, but let their own help- 
less ones want. 

They have a Mosque dedicated to pigeons. On entering 
it, the worshiper purchases a small quantity of grain, kept on 
hand for the purpose, which he scatters on the floor. Imme- 
diately it will be devoured by thousands of pigeons which live 
and breed in the Mosque. They believe that pigeons, doves 
and ducks are possessed of the souls of the dead. They say 
every time the birds drink and raise their heads to swallow 
the water, they are thanking God. They also believe that 
the beautiful Whitewater fowl, so plentiful in the Bosphorus, 
are possessed of the souls of the unfortunate women of the 
harem that have been sewed up in sacks and cast into the 
water. On the outside of the Mosques are places for ablutions. 
The dev^out Mohammedan always washes his hands, face and 
feet before entering the Mosque. As he washes, he prays. 
I saw a very self-righteous looking old Turk at his ablution 
in front of St. Sophia. I asked my dragoman to translate his 
prayer. As near as I can remember it ran as follows : " O Allah ! 
I wash my hands, cleanse thou my heart. I wash my feet, 
may my walk before thee be clean ; and if I have wronged 
any man help me to restore to him that which I have unjustly' 
taken with five-fold increase, and if I have unjustly scourged 



Superstition, 1 1; t 



any man, may the stripes of retribution fall on my own back. 
Now, O Allah, I wash my face, may it be clean enough for 
thee to look upon in the Great Day, ' ' 

The Mohammedans are verj^ superstitious. They believe 
in sorcery, witchcraft and the evil eye. In most of the Mosques 
they have talismans hung from the ceiling to keep out 
bad spirits. The ostrich egg is believed to be a sovereign 
amulet against the Bvil One. They are hanging from the 
roofs of nearly all the Mosques. In the Mohammedan quar- 
ters you will see hung over the door of some dilapidated shanty 
a piece of brimstone, garlic, and a vial of water, as a charm 
against fire. In a word, I can give no better picture of the 
Stamboul district of Constantinople than to refer my readers 
to the description of Bagdad and Damascus in the Arabian 
Nights. Seated on his bench at a street corner you will see 
the cobbler pegging away at an old shoe and singing as he 
sews ;. the barber with his kit, shaving a customer on an old 
stool in the street ; old Alia Baba with an air of dignity, and 
Cogia Hassin waiting on the three Calenders, sons of kings 
and the fine ladies of Bagdad. Here j^ou will see the palace of 
rich Sinbad the Sailor, yonder the beggar leaning against his 
wall grieving that -heaven has not favored him with wealth and 
luxury. A little stretch of imagination will reproduce in the 
street the old magician offering to give ' ' new lamps for old 
ones. " You will see men leading horses loaded with water 
in leather bags made by stripping the hide from a yearling 
calf, with the neck as a spout and the legs tied up to hold the 
water. This is peddled about the streets for sale. It was to 
bottles of this kind that our Saviour referred when he said new 
wine should not be put into old bottles. When the hide is 
.green it will stretch and make room for fermentation, but when 
the leather becomes old the slightest unusual pressure will 
cause it to burst. I will say more of Constantinople in my 
next letter. 



152 New Rome. 



XXXIV. 

Constantinople to Bucharest-Scraps of History Picked 
UP ON THE Ground — New Rome — Dukes and Counts — 
The Hippodrome — Riot of Nika — The Blue and the 
Green — A Roman Decree L^ike our XVth Amendment 
— The Difference Between IvIke and Similar — Sto- 
ries OF Ignorant Guides — Valuable Missionary Work 
— The Ruins of Time — An Old Prophecy Nearly Ful- 
filled — ^The Dungeon Without an Echo — The Hand- 
writing Upon the Wall — Keep Your Mouth Shut — 
The Golden Horn — Archery — Winter Palace — Sul- 
tan's lyARGE Family — Crescent and Cross — A Day in 
Asia — Chalcedon — St. Euphemia — IvOaves and Fishes 
— Bazaars — The Bosphorus — Hellespont — Black SEx\ 
— The Balkans — An Old Maid. 

Bucharest, Roumania, June, 1888. 
After two weeks' rest at Constantinople, we concluded to 
Tisit two former Turkish provinces, Bulgaria and Roumania. 
Within a few years these provinces will, perhaps, be the. 
theatre of a tremendous struggle on the part of Russia for the 
final possession of Constantinople. Before attempting to de- 
scribe my journey, however, I would like to say a few words 
more about Constantinople. It is remarkable what a firm im- 
pression little scraps of history, picked up upon the ground, 
make upon the mind. Among other things, I learned that 
^ Constantinople " is not the official name of the city. When 
it was founded by Constantine, he, by a most solemn decree, 
christened it " The City of New Rome." A beautiful pillar 
was erected to commemorate the dedication with the name 
just mentioned inscribed upon it in letters of brass. The 
common people, however, called it the city of Constantine — 
(Constantinople) and for fifteen hundred years it has been 
known by no other name. 

It was Constantine that created the titles now so common 
all over Europe, of Count and Duke. Count means a major- 
general ; Duke means a general one degree lower. They are 
now hereditary titles and mean nothing. 

As I carefully looked at and walked around the oval space 
in the center of the city, formerly occupied by the circus, and 
now called the amphitheatre, my mind reverted to the terrible 
scenes here enacted in the days of Justinian, during the riot of 
Nika. The circus was divided into competing companies, one 
wore green, the other blue. The excitement ran so high that 



The Blues AND Greens. 155 

the whole city, became divided into two bitter factions, the 
Greens and the Blues. The Blues occupied the same relation 
to the Court that Tammany now does to the city government 
of New York. No matter what crimes they committed they 
could not be convicted. As is always the case, when the law 
fails to redress wrongs, the Greens determined to be their own 
avengers and came into the Hippodrome with daggers con- 
cealed under their mantles and, in one night, they killed three 
thousand of the Blues. The Blues appealed to the Kmperor 
who issued a decree which reads very much like the XVth 
Amendment to the Constitution of the United States. It de- 
clares that " all wrongs shall be duly redressed by the courts 
of law, without regard to condition or color.'' The Blues 
then commenced the terrible riot of Nika, which means con- 
quer, and nearly destroyed the city. It was during this riot 
that the Church of St. Sophia was burned. It was rebuilt at 
a cost of $5,000,000. Before the riot could be quelled old 
BeLsarius killed 30,000 of the rioters within the circuit of the 
Hifodrome. 

The religious factions of the city were as bitter in their 
hatred of each other as the sportsmen. They were divided 
between the doctrines of Athanasius and Arius. Great vol- 
umui- were written, expensive counsels were held and bloody 
battles were fought to settle the difference between the mean- 
ing of the Vv'ords similar and like, (Homoousian and Homoi- 
ousian.) 

Some idea of the wealth of the city may be formed by 
the amount of the spoils which are divided among its captors 
in its first siege. Gibbon says the spoils amounted to more 
than seven times the entire revenue of England, yet from this 
disaster she completely recovered. 

Some of the stories told by ignorant guides are amusingly 
ridiculous. Among other wonderful things about St. Sophia, 
they tell you that its lofty dome can be seen of a clear day one 
hundred miles away on the Black Sea, whereas Mount Blanc, 
15,000 feet high, can barely be seen from Geneva, only fifty 
miles awa3^. The church would have to be four thousand feet 
high to be seen one hundred miles at sea. Mount Olympus is 
only one hundred and ten miles from Constantinople, and can. 
only be seen by ascending some high place. 

Constantinople at one time was a flourishing silk-making 
city. A christian missionary stole the art from China. ■ He 
brought the eggs in a hollow cane. This proved to the Greeks 
very valuable missionary work. 

Nothing is more impressed upon the mind of the traveler 
than the complete destruction by time of all the monuments 
of human glory. When we read the glowing accounts of the 



154 Vanished Splendor. 

city of Constantinople in the days of Justinian ; its splendid 
edifices, mighty walls, golden gates and beautiful palaces, 
gardens, and parks; its amphitheatre, where the Greens and 
Blues contended and quarreled for imperial favor ; its cisterns 
of a thousand columns, viaducts, baths and towers, we natu- 
rally expect to find some remains of so much vaunted splendor. 
We might as well look upon the decayed bones of an exhumed 
graveyard for the manly beauty and graceful forms and faces 
once possessed by those whose remains are buried there, as to 
expect to find many evidences of the former greatness of this 
more than dead and buried city. The walls are in ruins. 
The Golden Gate has been walled up by the roughest of Turk- 
ish masonry. The Happy Gate is a miserable hole in a pile 
of old bricks. The seven towers around the Golden Gate are 
still standing, but greatly dilapidated. The cistern of a 
thousand and one columns is filled up three columns high, and 
is used as a place for spinning silk. The Forum, once the 
pride of the city, has been arched over and is filled with ba- 
zaars. The amphitheatre has been filled up fifteen feet and is 
not now more than one-fifth of its former size. St. Sophia's 
Church has been converted into a Mohammedan mosque. 
That the worshipers may face Mecca, they have built out one 
side of the altar further than the other and placed the matting 
of the floor diagonally across the building. Every trace of 
Christian decoration has been destroyed. Even the mosaic 
work representing Christ and the Holy Virgin has been painted 
over or covered. When I visited the church it was desecrated 
by being converted into a pigeon roost. The Golden Gate 
was walled up because of an old prophecy that the enemy 
would enter by that gate. The Russians were very near ful- 
filling the prophecy seven years ago. From the main tower I 
could plainly see with the naked eye their breastworks within 
half a mile, apparently, of the Golden Gate. The seven 
towers, at the Golden Gate, and the connecting walls enclose 
six or eight acres of ground. The enclosure has been used as 
a prison for political offenders. Several Sultans and many 
Viziers have been murdered here. The walls are covered 
with inscriptions cut in the stone by some of the prisoners. 
Under the main tower is what is called the " Echoless Dun- 
geon." So called because, no matter how loud the cr}^ of the 
tortured prisoner, his voice never reached the surface. The 
history will never be written of the thousands of poor wretches 
who have suffered and died in this horrid place. 

Where the Roman Emperors had their harbor- for ships of 
war, within the city walls, vegetable gardens are now culti- 
vated, the product of which is carried every morning, on the 
backs of the poor farmers, into the city for sale. 



Funeral Customs, i5'5 



In the Stamboul district no repairs, either to the streets 
or houses, have oeen made for years. 

Notwithstanding the bad government of the city, its 
natural advantages are so great that it is still one of the most 
lovely spots of Kurope. The new part of the city, on the 
opposite side of the Golden Horn, is very much like other 
European cities. The buildings are good and the streets well 
paved. The Turks saem to realize their fate. The hand- 
writing is on the wall. They know their lease of power in 
Europe is nearly ended. Most of the Mohammedans now bury 
their dead or the other side of the Bosphorus, in Asia. 

It is very dangerous for a foreigner to speak disrespect- 
fully of the Sultan. There are several instances where an in- 
discreet remark at the table, or in the presence of servants or 
housekeepers, has resulted in a request to leave the city. It 
is useless to protest. When such a request comes, even your 
Minister cannot help you, as the proof is preserved and pro- 
duced that the hospitality of the city has been violated. In 
such cases the offender is not permitted to pass out of the city 
by the " Happy Gate. " He must pass by some other portal, 
and is escorted to his ship to prevent assassination. 

The Golden Horn runs from the Bosphorus about six miles 
to a point completely dividing the city into two great divis- 
ions, Stamboul and Pera. As you go up the Horn it gets 
smaller and finally ends beyond the city limit. Hence the old 
saying, "Going out at the little end of the horn. " 

The Mohammedans, like the Christians, bury their dead 
and never disturb their final resting place. I saw a funeral in 
the old graveyard outside the city. It looked very much like 
one of our own funeral scenes. Evidences, however, of super- 
stition are found all around their burial places, such as pin- 
ning or tying small pieces of a sick person's clothing to the 
tomb or railing around some saintly grave, by which they 
believe' the sickness is cured. 

Just outside the city . is a large field with several round 
marble pillars upon which are cut the names of several of the 
Sultan's courtiers and counsellors. I took it for a burial 
ground, but on inquiry I found it was the Sultan's field for 
archery practice. He and his court visit it once a year, and 
the best shot is rewarded by a pillar planted to his memory 
with his name and the date the famous shot was made. No 
matter how far he comes from the bull's eye, all that is required 
is that he shall be nearer than any of his competitors ; so some 
one of his courtiers is sure to have a pillar of honor every year. 

The Sultan's winter palace is a beautiful white marble 
building erected at the water's edge of the Bosphorus. It 
covers several acres of ground. His summer palace is about 



156 The Winter Palace. 



a mile further northward on the hill and overlooks the whole 
city. It is said his elder brother and the true heir to the 
throne is confined in the winter palace a prisoner of State. He 
was Sultan at the time the Russians were before the city, but 
was afterwards deposed in favor of his 5'oiinger brother, the 
present Sultan. It is also said that of all the courtiers con- 
cerned in the overthrbw of the former Sultan, not one is now 
alive. The)' were all rewarded by being sent on embassays 
and errands of State, but by some fortuitous accident, died before 
the time for return arrived. Thus the Sultan has no powerful 
friends around him. 

The Sultan's household consists of over ten thousand 
persons, including wives, children, eunuchs, slaves and ser- 
vants. In this respect he is a greater man than Brigham 
Young was in the days of his greatest glory. It is hard to un- 
derstand how the corrupt teaching of the Crescent has so com- 
pletel}^ triumphed in the East over the pure doctrines of the 
Cross. The Koran undoubtedly contains some good moral 
principles, borrowed from the Bible, but the life of Mahomet 
and the doctrines of his religion are wanting in purity and 
clouded with superstition. The great majority, however, of 
the Mohammedans, of Turkey, are sincere in their faith. They 
are sober, industrious and honest. Their belief in predestina- 
tion and fatalism has dwarfed all their best energies, and must 
eventually make them succumb to a race of broader and bolder 
views. 

Before leaving Constantinople we spent a day in Asia. 
We crossed the Bosphorus to the site of ancient Chalcedon. 
Nothing of the city remains but a stone fountain said to be 
two thousand five hundred years old. Here we hired a car- 
riage and made an excursion of about twelve miles to the 'top 
of the mountain Bourgourlu (pronounced Boorgoorloo'). The 
crown of this hill was the former centre of the city. The 
splendid church of St. Kuphemia stood on the summit. It was 
one of the most magnificent cathedrals in the world and could 
comfortably seat four thousand worshipers. The fourth gen- 
eral council was held in this church. Six hundred and thirty' 
bishops sat in its Nave. Now not a stone or even a mark re- 
mains. Chalcedon was called the " City of the Blind," be- 
cause the founders had not seen the site of Constantinople on 
the opposite side of the Bosphorus. Of the Great Walled City, 
full of palaces, monuments and magnificent edifices, not a stone 
remains. Great trees are growing where its palaces stood and 
sheep graze over the site of St. Euphemia. It is hard to be- 
lieve a city ever occupied these cultivated fields and natural 
woods. The road was very rough and stony. The soil seemed 
very much like that of Bethel, in Delaware county. There 



Chalcedok 157 



were cherry, peacli, plum and apple trees in abundance. If it 
liad not been for the turbans and Turkish costumes, the scen- 
ery would have been quite homelike until we got high enough 
to see the mountains on the South and the city on the West. 
Here we saw the genuine Asiatic buffalo working- like an ox. 
By the side of the road we saw a peddler, in full Oriental cos- 
tume, selling cooked loaves and fishes. We co.uld understand 
the Scriptural scene of Christ feeding the multitude better 
than before. From my observation of Oriental manners, I am 
convinced that the habits and dresses of the people of Asia are 
to-day very much as they were in the days of our Saviour. 

From the summit of Bourgourlu the prospect is most 
charming. Snow-capped Olympus can be plainly seen, though 
one hundred miles away. One of the high mountains of Asia 
one hundred and sixt}^ miles to the east, was plainly visible. 
All the islands of the Sea of Marmora, the Dardanelles, the 
Golden Horn, the whole city of Constantinople and the beau- 
tiful Bosphorus, from Marmora to the Black Sea, could be 
distinctly seen. I do not remember ever having witnessed a 
finer view. I thought the view from L^ycabettus, over Athens, 
was the finest I ever saw, but this far surpasses it. 

The world-renowned Bazaars of Constantinople occup}* 
the site of the old F3riiin, which has been arched over in the 
roughest manner and converted into small shops, where every- 
thing of Asiatic or Oriental manufacture may be bought. It 
is impossible to enter without buying something, no matter 
how firmly you may have resolved not to do it. The goods 
are displayed in most fascinating forms. The prices seem 
low, but are generally about one-third higher than the same 
goods can be bought at the stores. I priced a silver bracelet 
and pin with the Sultan's monogram ; to get rid of the mer- 
chant I offered him ju,st one-half of his asking price. He 
refused my offer with a gesture of profound disgust. I 
smiled and went on, congratulating myself on my success. 
After I had gone half a square I felt a pull at m}" arm. The 
man was there with the articles. He said his children were 
starving and I would have to take the goods at my own price. 
I could not go back on my offer. I had firmly resolved on 
entering not to purchase anything, but T came out several 
dollars poorer than I went in. 

It is somewhat troublesome to enter the city. I had to 
have the Turkish Consul at Athens give me the necessary 
papers. Even then the authorities hesitated about admitting 
my wife and daughter. I also found that it required permis- 
sion from the American Consul to get out. I presented m}^ 
passport and got leave to go to Roumania. I then had to call 
on the Roumanian Consul and get leave to enter that kingdom. 



1^8 On the Blak Sea. 

I then presented my papers to the officers at the city gate and 
hid endorsed upon my passport that I had leave to go out by 
the " Happy Gate." So after man 3^ annoyances and much 
red tape I left Constantinople by the good ship Apollo for 
Varna, on the Black Sea. 

The trip up the Bosphorus was very interesting. It has 
been the subject of much praise from abler pens. I will not 
attempt to describe its gardens, palaces and harems. We 
passed the Hellespont, where Xerxes built his bridge of boats, 
and where Leander swam to kiss his love. I can only say 
that I have seen other places just as beautiful, and that I was 
a little disappointed. Perhaps I expected too much. The 
Bosphorus is abouc fifteen miles long and, at places, very nar- 
row. The fact that we gaze upon Asia on the right and Europe 
on the J eft for these fifteen miles adds to the interest of the 
voyage. Upon entering the Black Sea, the temperature fell 
fifteen or twenty degrees. It is called the Black Sea from 
the dark shade of its water, caused by the absence of sun- 
shine. The sky is generally overcast and th(S air damp and 
chilly. It requires about thirty hours by ship to go from Con- 
stantinople to Varna. The sea was rough and most of the 
passengers very sick. At Varna we took the cars and passed 
through Bulgaria to Rustchuck, on the Danube. There we . 
crossed the river and again took the cars for Bucharest. We 
spent a very interesting day at Bucharest. I was surprised 
to find Bulgaria and Roumania such fertile countries. I never 
saw better pasture lands or wheat fields. It rerninded me very 
much of the prairie lands ot Illinois. There are,, however, no 
farm houses. The lands are tilled by peasants who live in 
miserable little huts, or in villages. Our route lay through a 
spur of the Balkan Mountains and was very picturesque, of 
course not comparable with the Swiss or Italian Alpine scenery, 
but very beautiful and entertaining. The tops of the moun- 
tains seemed leveled off" and crowned with a wall. There 
were no crags or lofty peaks. The scenery of these mountains 
is soft and has a soothing rather than a stirring influence upon 
the beholder. 

In my judgment Turkey lost her most fertile territory 
when she surrendered her sovereignty over Bulgaria and Rou- 
mania and, if not torn to pieces in the impending war, these 
two principalities will soon become rich and prosperous. 

Our hotel here is one of the best I have found in Europe ; 
very few in America are better. I met an English lady, of 
doubtful age, on the trip from Varna. We had met at Con- 
stantinople, where she had set her heart upon capturing a 
young American traveler. She spoke of the beauties of a 
moonlight sail on the Bosphorus ; said she would not be afraid 



Bucharest. 159 

to go if any young gentleman would take her ; she thought it 
would be so romantic. The young fellow while very polite, 
would not take the hint, but constantly and adroitl}^ turned 
the subject. I thought I would inquire about the young gen- 
tleman as I found her now alone. I asked her where she had 
parted with him, " Oh," said she, " I found him so awfully 
stupid I shook him off and left him at Constantinople. I con- 
versed with him for a whole week and he never could get 
higher than the weather." 



XXXV. 

Bucharest to Zurich^ Female Masons- — Great Wheat 
Fields — Up the Danube — A Feudal Castle — Belgrade 
— Buda-Pesth — A Splendid City of Half a Million 
People — On to Vienna — A Rejuvenated City— The 
Changes of Fifteen Years — Beautiful Suburbs — 
Schonbrun- — Kahlenburg — Vienna to Innsbruck--The 
Austrian Tyrol— Old Church at Innsbruck— A Rip 
Van Winkle Sleep — Over the Alps Westward — 
Sources of Europe's Three Greatest Rivers. 

Zurich, Switzerland, June, 1888. 
The journey from Constantinople, over the Black Sea, 
through Bulgaria and Roumania and up the Danube as far as 
Belgrade, is hard to describe. It differs from any scener)^ I 
have yet seen. Bucharest, the capital of Roumania, is a beau- 
tiful city of 300,000 inhabitants, well built after the Parisian 
style, with broad, well-paved streets, and a fine park within 
easy walking distance from the centre of the city. It is full 
of delightful gardens, fragrant with roses. French is spoken 
in nearly all the stores, but the costumes of the common peo- 
ple are Russian. The Russian language seems to be the native 
tongue of the people. The names upon the signs are peculiar 
to the place. The family name is given first : as Smith John, 
Jones Peter, etc. Some of the stores are equal to those of 
lyondon and New York. I found another of the best hotels in 
Europe here. I saw women here not only making mortar and 
digging cellars, but actuall}^ using the trowel and doing car- 
penter work. 

From Bucharest we went by rail to Turn-Severin, on the 
Danube. The route is through some of the richest farm lands 
on the continent, but they are flat and alluvial, very much 
like our Western prairies. While the wheat fields are ver}' 
large, sometimes containing fifty acres, no labor-saving 



r6o Up the Danube, 

machinery seems to be used. L/abor is so abundant and cheap 
as to render improved plows, rakes, mowers and reapers un- 
neccessary, I met an agent of the McCormick reaper at Buda- 
Pesth. He says it is impossible to introduce their mowers 
and reapers here. All the grain is moved by hand in sacks.. 
It is wonderful how rapidly a cargo of wheat can be put on 
board or discharged from a ship. 

At Turn-Severin we embarked for a two days' trip up the 
Danube. I have gone up the Hudson, the Rhine, and down 
the St. ly-awrence through the Thousand Isles and over the 
rapids ; I have seen Lakes George and Champlain and the 
mountain scenery of Pennsylvania, Virginia and Vermont ;. 
but I have never seen an5'thing finer than the scenery of the 
Danube from the Iron Gate up to Belgrade. The river varies . 
from a few yards, through the mountains, to several miles in 
width over the plains. Throu-^h some of the mountain gorges 
the river seems narrower than it really is because of the pre- 
cipitous height of the apparently overhanging crags and lofty- 
mountain peaks. As it winds and twists in its tortuous chan- 
nel it looks like a succession of little lakes with no outlet. 
The boat seems about to butt against some rocky cliff, when 
suddenl}^ it wheels about and apparently plunges into another 
pond of fifty or a hundred yards in length and, seemingly,., 
hardly wide enough for the boat to pass. There is an old 
Roman road along the water's edge cut into the mountain side 
and hewn out of the solid rock, supported here and there by 
abutments of masonry, through the entire mountain pass. 
Withal the air is balmy and moist, so much so as to cause 
green shrubbery to grow in profusion upon the rocky sides of 
the mountains wherever there is a fissure or crack in the stone 
large enough to permit the fibrous roots to enter and hold the 
shrubs and vines. After a few miles the scenery softens, the 
crags disappear and gradually we enter a rich, undulating and 
highly cultivated country. Then follows a vast marshy dis- 
trict known as the Valley of the Danube, said to be poisoned 
with malaria. The river is now very high. At places it 
seemed to me to be ten or fifteen miles wide. The ground is 
all alluvial below Belgrade and is a great country for grazing. 
I saw vast herds of cattle, horses, and immense flecks of sheep 
pasturing on the meadows. We passed what seemed to be 
groves of willow trees with the water halfway up their trunks. 
One of the best preserved feudal castles in Europe is seen a 
few miles below Belgrade. It covers about thirty acres ox 
ground. The walls are all perfect. I counted twenty-eight 
fine towers. I have no doubt the old baron who built it be- 
lieved he would live forever in safety within its walls. 

Belgrade is a very old town but so much like all the 



Buda-Pesth. r6i 



mediaeval cities of Europe as to make a description of it tire- 
some. It has its old walls, gates, churches, narrow crooked 
streets, towers and dungeons, together with its legends and- 
local stories of tragedies and romances common to all the old 
towns of the continent. We stayed there one night. 

Next morning we crossed the river and took the cars for 
Buda-Pesth, the capital of Hungary. Here we were again sur- 
prised. We found Hungary one of the finest farming countries 
of the world. A vast rich plain, covered with great wheal 
fields and pasture lands, but with no fences or farm houses. 
The land is cultivated by peasants. Both sexes work alike 
in the fields. The city of Buda-Pesth is one of the finest and 
richest in Kurope. lyike Chicago, it is the great grain centre 
of the continent. Everybody seems rich. The streets, parks 
and buildings, public and private, are kept in the best of order. 
One would say upon a casual glance that it was a new city. 
A little inspection, however, will reveal the fact that it has 
been built upon the site of a very old one. It has a popula- 
tion of half a million. The river Danube runs through it. Its- 
streets are from fifty to one hundred and fifty feet wide. It is 
surrounded with villas like Rome. The river is walled on 
both sides, and has a parapet or bulwark four feet high and a 
splendid wide promenade on each side along the water front. 
Then a well-paved carriage-way, and palatial residences, hotels 
and restaurants looking down upon the beautiful river as it 
sweeps rapidly through the city. The river is spanned by a 
bridge one-third of a mile long, built on an exact model of the 
Brooklyn bridge over the East river at New York. On the 
opposite side of the river are the public building, palaces, 
gardens, barracks and castles. The hill upon which these 
buildings stand is seven hundred and ninety -three feet high 
and overlooks the city and country many miles around. At 
its foot is a fine natural hot spring with Turkish baths. The 
palace gardens are six hundred feet above the level of the 
river, looking down upon the town. The people are very 
fond of music. The concert hall will hold two thousand per- 
sons and is a very beautiful building. We attended a concert 
there given in aid of the overflowed peasant villages, by the 
world-renowned choir of Vienna. I am not much of a mu- 
sician, but I think the singing was the finest I have ever 
heard. In a word, Buda-Pesth is a splendid city and cannot 
be properly described in the short limit I must give it. 

From Buda-Pesth we went by rail to Vienna. I found 
my old hotel, the Metropole, so full we could not be accommo- 
dated without takii;ig inferior rooms. Our hotels at Bucha- 
rest and Buda-Pesth were so good they had spoiled us and 
nothing but the best accommodations could now satisfy our 



1 52 Improvements at Vienna. 



cultivated taste for hotel life. Much to the disgust of the 
proprietor we left his house and took up our quarters at the 
Hotel Continental, a spacious and well-kept house. I find 
Vienna entirely rejuvenated since 1873. I visited jt during 
the World's Fair of that year. I would hardly know the 
place now, so great have been the changes. I am free to say 
that it is now what Paris then was : one of the loyeliest cities 
in the world. The rotunda, or main building of the great 
Exposition, is still standing in the Prater and looks as fresh 
and well preserved as when the exhibition closed fifteen years 
ago. It is still used as an exhibition building and is filled 
with the most attractive productions of Austria. It looks 
about as well as when the World,'s Fair was in full course. 
While the old city has nearly disappeared the land-marks are 
still there; the old Cathedral, with its tall stone spire; the 
King's Palace and Capuchin vaults where the ashes of Aus- 
trian royalty repose ; and the bulwarks of the old city can 
still be found, and to one who has seen Vienna twenty years 
ago, the picture of the old city, may be easil}^ restored ; but 
one visiting it for the first time could form no idea of what it 
was when its population was only a hundred and twenty or 
thirty thousand. It now has a population approaching one 
million. The Danube has been straightened, walled and . 
bridged. It is subjected to great overflows, to prevent which 
the channel has been very much improved. The city in 1873, 
and for several hundred years before, kept her commercial in- 
tercourse with the river by means of a canal which runs through 
the town. .Now the city has extended to the banks of the 
Danube. The principal bridge is nearly a mile long. It has 
been built since 1873. It is the full width 01 the street and 
paved from one end to the other. The river is banked and 
walled so as to allow a rise of twenty feet without an overflow. 
The city is full of new monuments and statuary in marble and 
bronze. It contains, however, nothing finer than Canova's 
marble group of Theseus and the Minotaur, which is preserved 
and exhibited here. : . 

The great charm of Vienna life is its multitude of re- 
courses for amusement and pleasure. lyike Paris, the people 
live in the streets, parks and cafes. , The Prater is within a 
few minutes' walk from the busiest; part of the city, and is 
one of the most delightful resorts for refreshment, amusement 
or pleasure in the world. In this respect it is much superior 
to the Bois de Boulogne of Paris. It is laid out with exquisite 
taste ; it has one course in a straight line four miles long. It 
is beautifully shaded, full of exquisite drives for carriages or 
horseback exercise, enchanting promenades, full of roses and 
flowers from every clime. It has its little theatres, concert 



Francis- Joseph. i6j 

halls, and wine and beer gardens ; in a word, it contains 
everything the hnman heart can desire or the most fertile im- 
agination conceive of for the promotion of enjoyment and hu- 
man happiness. If I were compelled to live away from my 
own country, I would select Vienna as my permanent home, 
for I believe more genuine happiness could be extracted from 
life here than in any other place. The people of Vienna are 
noted for their easy, yet courtly manners. 

While wandering through the Rotunda, we met the Em- 
peror, leisurely examining the exhibits. He was dressed in 
the uniform of an ordinary soldier. There was nothing about 
him to distinguish him from a high private, and if we had not 
been told by our commissionaire we would not have known 
him. He was attended by three or four gentlemen in black 
suits and dress coats. We saw no armed guards or evidences 
of precaution for the protection of his person from vulgar ob- 
trusion. In our walks around the building we saw him twice. 
At one time I was near enough to have touched him. I saw 
him and the Archduke Charles in the same building in 1873. 
Although but fifteen years ago, he has sadly changed. He 
was then in his forty-third year, full of vigor and manly 
beauty. I did not then notice a gray hair in his head or fine 
flowing beard. His step was elastic and his whole beariup- 
majestic. He now looks prematurely old. His hair is thin 
and gray, his eye has lost its fire and his cheek is furrowed 
with deep lines of care. 'He is but fifty-eight years old ; I 
\yould take him for seventy. He still walks erect and rather 
briskly, and seems alive with interest for all that affects his 
empire. iVs far as I could ascertain by conversation with his 
subjects, I would say he is a very popular ruler and is much 
honored and beloved by his people. 

The suburbs of the city are very attractive places and are 
usually gay on every fine afternoon, being crowded by the 
citizens of the town seeking for country air and rural enjoy- 
ment. We visited two or three of the suburban resorts and 
found them very charming places. Schonbrun is two miles 
out. It is the seat of the Emperor's summer palace. Kahlen- 
berg, about five miles out, is now reached by rail. It is about 
one thousand feet high and gives a most perfect view over the 
city, neighboring mountains and course of the Danube for 
many miles above and below the city. If time had permitted 
I would like to have tarried longer in this delightful place 
I left it with much regret. 

Our next resting place was Innsbruck, via Saltzburg, a 
very beautiful little town, fifteen hours by express train from 
Vienna going toward the Alps. I never saw such perfect 
shades of green as were presented by the hills and mountains 



164 The Tyrol. 

along the route. The road gradually rises until it approaches 
the snow line. It follows very near the course of one of the 
tributaries of the Danube and passes over some of the wildest 
and grandest Alpine scenery. The Tyrol has been so often 
described as to become familiar— so far as mere description 
can make it familiar — to all who have taken the trouble to 
read about it. It is impossible to convey a correct idea of its 
grandeur without actually travelling through and over it. 

Innsbruck is prettily situated on the River Inn, and is 
surrounded with snow clad mountains. The snow, however, 
generally disappears about August. It is one of the oldest 
towns in Austria and was supposed to have been finished over 
a thousand years ago. It is about four hundred miles by rail 
west of Vienna. Some of the mountains around Innsbruck 
are seven thousand eight hundred feet high. When I looked 
'out of my chamber window in the morning, it seemed as if one 
of the lofty cliffs was about to tumble over and bury me and 
my Inn five thousand feet deep. The city itself is about two 
thousand feet above the level of the sea. It looks like a pretty 
little flower nestling in a mountain cliff", and sheltered by the 
surrounding peaks. It contains a very old church full of 
bronze life-size statuary, said to be very artistic. The old 
town slept for several hundred years, when it was aroused 
suddenly one summer morning by the shrill scream of a loco- 
motive on a new railroad which was, after much opposition on 
the part of the city authorities, located near its western gate. 
From that moment it sprung into importance and now bids 
fair to become one of the great commercial frontier cities of 
Austria. It is, without exaggeration, one of the prettiest 
places in Kurope. From Innsbruck we crossed the Alps and 
entered Switzerland, our next stop being Zurich two hundred 
miles farther west. We passed near the sources of the three 
great rivers of Europe — -the Danube running east, the Rhine 
running northward and the Rhone running southward ; one 
emptying into the Black Sea, one into the Mediterranean, and 
the other into the North Sea. So it will be seen we have 
passed over the highest part of the continent and have now 
viewed its finest scenery. We crossed the highest bridge in 
Europe, three hundred feet above a chasm cut by a small river 
rumbling and tumbling over the rocks below. After passing 
through the Arlberg tunnel we began to descend. Great peaks 
pierce the clouds in every direction. Mighty cliffs and crags 
overhang the rich valleys below, great cataracts tumble down 
the mountain sides, while beautiful cascades fall over bluffs 
five hundred feet high. But my page is full — and we are at 
Zurich. 



Zurich TO Geneva. 165 



XXXVI. 

Zurich to Okneva— Arlberg Tunnel, Four Thousand 
Two Hundred and Ninety-eight Feet High — Silk 
Weavers of Zurich— Berne— Sunday Observers Some- 
what Inconsistent — Old Church — Beautiful Nature 
— Geneva Again^A Swiss Family— Lake of Geneva — 
Towns on its Borders— The Prisoner of Chillon— 
View of Mont Blanc — American Watches in Geneva 
— Future Route. 

Geneva, June, 1888. 
My last letter was mailed from Zurich, one of Switzer- 
land's largest towns. It is most charmingly situated at the 
lower end of the lake of the same name. The lake is about 
twenty -five miles long, from two to three miles wide and is at 
places nearly 500 feet deep. It is stocked with several varie- 
ties of fine fish dud is navigated by both sailing vessels and 
steamboats. On Its shores are several villages and manufact- 
uring towns. The water is clear and of a greenish hue, the 
ai-- is cool and bracing, and the people industrious and hospi- 
table. The altitude of the surface of the lake ia 1345 feet 
above the level of the sea. We passed over mountains 4000 
feet high. The great tunnel of Arlberg, over six miles long, 
through which we passed, is 4,298 feet above the level of the 
sea. After leaving the tunnel, we noticed all the rivers and 
mountain streams ran northward, into the Rhine ; on the other 
side they ran eastward into the Danube. From this we knew 
we had passed over the backbone of the continent. The effect 
of remaining for several days in these high altitudes was to 
give a very disagreeable buzzing sensation in the ears. 

Zurich has some excellent hotels. Hotel Baur au Lac, at 
which we spent three days, is one of the best in the city. It 
faces up the lake, is surrounded by a beautiful garden fragrant 
with roses and full of sweet little bowers, delightfully shaded 
and tastefully laid out. The lake view from our chamber 
window is very fine. We can see up the lake for fifteen miles 
and the surrounding mountains, especially upon the right, are 
very clearly seen. The first tier of hills, some of which are 
three or four thousand feet high , are green and partly cultivated; 
those further off are still higher and barren ; finally the snow- 
capped Alpine peaks overtower them all and pierce the clouds. 
Just outside of the city is Mount Uetelberg, 3000 feet high 
from whose summit a splendid view of the city, lake and sur- 
rounding country can be had. Zurich has a population of 



1 66 Berne, 



85,000, and is a very busy and enterprising- place. Some of 
the finest silks are mannfactured here, on old-fashioned hand- 
looms, by Swiss girls. I saw them at work on looms of the 
simplest construction, but the work produced was of the finest 
kind. 

After a three days' sojourn at Zurich, we left for Berne. 
Here also we found a thriving Swiss city of about 44,000 in- 
habitants. It is a very romantic and picturesque old town. 
It had the honor of being the birthplace of Delaware county's 
present District Attorney. No wonder he is so proud of his 
horses and hounds and takes so much delight in Nature's 
charms. He was born in a land of 6ears and mountains 1800 
ieet nearer heaven than the highest point in Delaware county. 
The waiters at the hotel seemed delighted when I told them 
that one of the best offices of the county where I lived was 
held by a native born Swiss. 

The citizens of Berne are very strict in their observance 
of the Sabbath. The Old Minster, with its high-backed, nar- 
row and most uncomfortable pews, is filled on Sundays with 
Protestant worshippers. It is a naked, cold looking old edi- 
fice, but greatly venerated by the people. It stands upon a 
terrace rising perpendicularly one hundred and ten feet, at 
the foot of which the river Aare sweeps in a beautiful curve. 
The terrace, in the rear of the church, is now a shady grove 
with seats and statues, graveled walks and flower beds. The 
view from the terrace is indescribably fine ; the Bernese Alps 
present a very grand and thrilling appearance. We plainly 
define the contour of mountains over twelve thousand feet high. 
I thought I discovered some inconsistency in their pro- 
fessed respect for the Sabbath. While the stores were gen- 
erally closed and the churches well filled on the Sunday I 
spent in Berne, I noticed many more people on the drilling 
grounds, looking at the evolutions and artillery practice of the 
handsome young soldiers, than were in the churches. Sunday 
is a regular drill day in Switzerland. At sunrise the day is 
opened by the booming of cannon, and the constant crack of 
the infantry rifle, by battalion as well as in target practice, is 
kept up until sunset. The day is devoted to military reviews, 
target practice and warlike parades, of which the people seem 
very fond. 

The celebrated clock, of Berne, like the one at Strasbourg, 
is but a toy, not worth going ten miles to see. 

The old part of the town has a very mediaeval look, with 
high houses, narrow and crooked streets, with sidewalks 
under an arched way over which the quaint old houses pro- 
ject. The new part of the city is like all the other modern 
additions to old towns ; that is to say, as beautiful and 



Lake of Geneva. 167 



convenient as architectural skill can make them. The great 
attraction of Berne, indeed of all Switzerland, is not its works 
of Art, but its profuse display of the handiwork of Nature. 
Its peaceful meadows and placid lakes contrasted with its crags 
and peaks ; its green forests and barren rocks ; its cataracts, 
cascades, caverns and grottoes contrasted with its sheepherds 
and picturesque cottages, sturd3% free and independent people, 
all crowded within the limits of the little Republic of Switzer- 
land, making it look more like a theatrical spectacle than a 
living landscape, all unite to make it such a charming retreat 
for travelers from all parts of the world. 

From Berne we went to Geneva in six hours by express 
train through the best part of Switzerland. We.pa.ssed Swiss 
houses with great pitched roofs extending down, porch-like, 
all around the buildings to within six feet of the ground. 
Under these patronizing shelters the whole Swiss family rest 
during winter and repose at night. A Swiss family consists 
of the father, mother, children and often the grand-children, 
together with the flocks, herds, horses, cows, pigs, goats and 
other domestic animals, all living in harmony under the same 
roof. 

The Lake of Geneva is thfe largest in Switzerland. It 
covers an area of two hundred and twenty-five square miles. 
It is about fifty' miles long and, on an average, eight miles 
wide. In places it is over one thousand feet deep. Its water 
is perfectly clear ; objects may be seen sixty feet under water. 
In color the lake is a deep blue. The deposits of the Rhone 
at the head of the lake are gradually filling it with a rich 
alluvial soil and convertiag what was once a part of the lake 
into a fertile valley. 

There are thirteen towns upon the borders of the lake, 
in appearance, finished fully a thousand years ago. These 
towns communicate with the city of Geneva by steamboats 
which make a daily course of the entire lake. We spent a 
very agreeable day on one of these boats, only landing once, 
for two hours, to inspect the famous old castle of Chillon. It 
stands upon an isolated rock which juts out into the lake. 
The water at the base of the castle is three hundred feet deep. 
The castle is in a good state of preservation and is now used 
as an arsenal. It was built over a thousand years ago and 
has been the scene of many terrible tragedies. Crimes, in the 
name of the law and under the guise of justice have been com- 
mitted here, a recountal of which 

" Would freeze the blood. " 

It contains gloom^^ dungeons, torture rooms and a gibbet 
on which thousands of victims have been hung and whose 
bodies have been thrown down an eight)^ -feet-deep hole, at the 



1 68 Geneva, 



bottom of which were arranged revolving knives which cut 
the poor wretches into twenty or thirty pieces. The fragments 
then flowed out into the lake and became food for the fish. 
The stone column is shown where Byron's Prisoner of Chillon 
was chained for so many years, and until his bare feet wore a 
path in the stone floor as he chafed and paced his life away 
within the tether of his chain. 

•■Chillon ! thy prison Is a hoiy place 
And thy sad floor an altar— for 'twas trod 
Until his very steps have left a trace, 
Worn, as if the cold pavement werea sod." 

The climate of Geneva is very pleasant. It is never very 
warm and seldom cold enough to freeze over the lake. I visit- 
ed the city nineteen years ago, and can discover but little 
change in that part facing the lake. It is the same beautiful 
and charming city. Our hotel (De la Paix), fronts upon the 
lake and is considered by travelers the best in the city. From 
the balcony of our chambers we have a splendid view of Mont 
Blanc. It looks like a pyramid of burnished silver rising 
above the dim outlines of the lower Alps. The spectacle is 
more striking and weird because the sun shines upon the 
snowy head of this mountain for several minutes after it has 
set at Geneva and the other mbuntains are partly obscured by 
the shades of approaching night. While all around has a 
gloomy look, Mont Blanc seems aglow with the reflected rays 
of the sun which to us has been under the horizon half an hour. 
While gazing upon it we are reminded that we now see the 
highest point in Europe. 

Geneva is a thriving town of about seventy thousand in- 
habitants. It used to be the grand centre of watch manufac- 
turers. America has now monopolized this industry. I find 
American watches for sale here cheaper than they can be 
made by the home manufacturers. French is the native tongue 
of Geneva, from which we may infer that we are approaching 
the frontier of France. I have concluded to go from here 
to Paris, where I shall remain for two weeks and then go to 
Meyence and down the Rhine visiting Rotterdam, Amster- 
dam and perhaps Hamburg, from which I hope to embark for 
Scotland. 



Geneva to Paris. ii6q 



XXXVIL 

Geneva to Paris — Farming ix France— La-RGE Fields 
AND Wire Fences; — Six Oxen to a Plow — The Repub- 
lic OP 1873 ^^^ T-'JE Empire op 1869— High Prices — 
Hotel Continental — Paris Compared with Vienna — 
L-icENSED Bawdy Houses-Dueling— Morals and Tastes 
— Cook's Tourists in the Liu /re — How td S3E the 
Louvre — Sharpens in Paris— Passport Annoyances to 
Enter Germany. 

Paris, June, 1888. 
Distance on the continent is measured by time, not by 
miles. Paris, by the fastest express train and shortest route, 
is twelve hours from Geneva. In our journey here we passed 
through the cities of Macon and Dijon. The general face of 
the country from Geneva to the PYench frontier is rather tame 
for Switzerland, but, when compared with the flat fields of 
France, it is ver}' beautiful. From Macon to Paris one would 
almost imagine himself traveling in Pennsylvania and Dela- 
ware. The land is good and well tilled. It is, as a rule, 
cultivated in small patches, but here and there we find large 
farms upon which are used all modern implements, such as 
mowers and reapers, horse-rakes and hay-spreaders, sub-soil 
plows, steam threshing machines, etc. I saw large flecks of 
sheep and hundreds of cows and horses grazing in one-hun- 
dred-acre fields surrounded with wire fences. In the mountain 
districts the farmers merely scratch the soil as if to tickle it 
into a genial smile, but in the alluvial lands they plow very 
deep. I saw six large oxen to a plow and it was as much as 
they could do to draw it through the stiff sod. The furrow 
seemed to me a foot wide and about fourteen inches deep. 

I find Paris very much changed since the days of the 
empire. It is no longer a city of cheap living and low prices. 
The necessaries of* life are as dear in Paris as in Philadelphia. 
The Bon Marche still keeps up a fair reputation for reasonable 
fixed prices. The Palais Royal has degenerated into a set of 
street stores, where things can be bought cheap but are always 
of inferior quality. I notice around the Palais Royal many 
shops " To Let." I do not believe, from present appearances, 
that one-tenth as much business is done there now as was done 
in 1869. I predict that before manj^ years the Palais Royal 
will be among the things that were. The " Grand Magasins 
du Louvre" is now one of Paris 's popular stores, conducted 
somewhat on the principle of Wanamaker's Philadelphia store, 



j'jo Parisian Hotels, 

with the difference iia favor of the latter. It is worse thai 
folly to come to Paris to buy cheap goods,. There are ver}^ 
many cheap things here, but just like cheap things everywhere 
they are useless and, therefore, dear at any price. 

There are several first-class hotels here,, but it costs more 
to live in one of them than in the same class of hotels in New 
York or Philadelphia. We are very comfortably quartered at 
the Hotel Continental,, an immense establishment in the heart 
of Paris, on the Rue Rivoli, directly opposite the Gardens of 
the Tuilleries. It covers an entire square. It contains on 
Rue Rivoli three hundred and thirty feet ; on Rue Castiglione,. 
two hundred and fiity-eight feet. It is six stories high and 
has five hundred and sixteen sleeping rooms, some of them 
with parlors and sitting rooms annexed. The house is well 
furnished and has every modern convenience — bar, reading 
rooms, restaurant, billiard room, parlors, reception rooms,, 
elevators, etc. Our rooms ftont on Rue Rivoli and give us a 
fine view over the Gardens of the Tuilleries, directly opposite.. 
We can see Notre Dame, the tower of St. Jacque, St. Sulpice, 
the ruins of Palais D'Orsay, the Hotel des Invalides, with its 
gilded dome, Champ-de-Mars, the new iron tower to be the 
highest in the world, and Des-Champ-Elysee, as far as the 
Arc de-Triomphe ; in a word, we can see nearly the half of 
Paris from our chamber window. The hotel is full of Bnglish 
and American travelers. But few Frenchmen patronize it. If 
I were traveling alone I would select an humbler resting place 
and could secure better accommodations for less money. 

With all its faults, Paris is still a very beautiful city, full 
of life and devoted to pleasure. For a month's sojourn, but 
few gayer places can be found. For a permanent dwelling 
place, I would much prefer Vienna. The vaunted pleasures 
of Parisian life are visionary and unreal ; pleasures that can- 
not be looked back upon with satisfaction. On the other 
hand, Vienna is full of solid comfort and real home enjoy- 
ments. There the father, mother and all the little ones en- 
joy a holiday together ; here they take it in pairs. Two is 
company, but three a crowd in Paris. The young men- and 
women of Paris never look beyond the present hour. Their 
motto is, "Be merry to-day for to-morrow we may die. " 
Satan in Paris is the same gentleman of great social culture 
and good manners. He is never publicly vulgar, but lets no 
private opportunity pass to gently insinuate the most disgust- 
ing moral sins. He never gets drunk, always wears gloves 
and is exceedingly polite. While he would scorn to pick your 
pocket, he will not hesitate to recommend all sorts of gamb- 
ling, from the Grand Prix de Paris to a legalized lottery to 
help build the Panama Canal. 



M-OKALS AKD AkT. IJ^. 

A prostitute here holds a license from the government ; 
lier fees are regulated by a tariff of charges fixed by the State 
authorities. She may recover them in a suit at law. 

You are permitted to murder your enemy here with im- 
punity, provided you observe the fixed rules of the so-called 
■code of honor. A trial has just ended before one of the high 
courts of Paris. I have watched it with great interest. An 
•editor criticised in his paper the work of an artist. The editor 
was a dead shot, the artist had never discharged a pistol. The 
■criticism was kept up for months, becoming more bitter and 
sarcastic in each edition. At last the poor artist's wife was 
attacked and one of his female friends held up to public ridi- 
cule. A challenge followed. At the first shot the artist was 
killed. The only question before the court was, whether the 
duel had been regularly conducted. After a careful investi- 
gation the court found that the code had been followed in all 
its essential details and the bully, blackguard- and murderer 
was discharged. 

Whatever may be said of the morals of Paris, it must be 
admitted that the French are very highly cultivated in all that 
pertains to art and refined taste. The I^ouvre is still the finest 
picture gallery of the world. The lyUxembourg and the Sal en 
•of Paris still display the finest works of modern painters and 
sculptors. They can make the finest goods and produce the 
most beautiful fabrics of the world. To do justice to the 
paintings exhibited in the lyouvre, they should be visited 
once a da}^ for at least a week. I was struck with a visit made 
to these galleries by a party personally conducted by one of 
Cook's professional guides. His part}'^ consisted of about 
twenty travelers. He took them through the entire buildmg 
in one hour and fifty minutes (it requires two hours to walk 
through the gallery without stopping to examine any pictures). 
Some of the party were upon a half run ; others, attracted by 
some work of more than'ordinar}^ excellence, were unable to 
keep up with the crowd ; while all had a confused and bewil- 
dered look and were certainly unable to carry awa}^ any fixed 
remembrance of a single painting. When the^^ get home they 
will think they have seen the world-renowned paintings of the 
Louvre, but they have not. The proper way to visit the gal- 
lery is, first, to take a deliberate stroll through it very much 
as you would enter and promenade around a ballroom, letting 
your bewildered eyes rest but for a moment upon the fair faces 
which most impress you at the first glance ; then take your 
catalogue and look at ever}- picture. You will often find some 
perfect gem, unnoticed at your first glance, arid man^^ paint- 
ings of the greatest merit in some unexpected place. 

It takes two weeks, industrioush' spent, to see Paris. 



1^2 Passport Annovances'. 

The place is full of sharpers. I trul}- pity the greenhorii 
here. They will relieve him of his money in such a patron- 
izing way as almost to compel him to thank them for robbing 
him. I will give one instance. While at Versailles, I met 
an American gentleman with his family. He had gone from 
the hotel in tiie coach expressly provided for the guests, that 
they might not be imposed upon b}^ being overcharged. I 
asked him how much he paid, and was surprised to learn they 
had charged him for fare alone, twenty francs per person. T 
took m}^ family there in the street car for less than one franc 
each, and we had just as comfortable a ride as he had for 
twenty francs. I have known instances of American travelers 
being taken by their guides into restaurant^ and being com- 
pelled to pay twenty francs for what I could get without diffi- 
cult}^ for two, or at the outside, four francs. 

I leave Paris to-morrow for Meyence and a trip down the 
Rhine. When purchasing my tickets yesterday the agent de- 
cliied to sell them until I produced my passport. I was in- 
formed that while it would admit me, my wife and daughter 
could not enter Germany without separate passports. The 
German authorities are sending back travelers from France 
ever}^ day. I w^as compelled to call on our Minister for pass- 
ports for my wife and daughter and, after procuring them, I 
had to have them vised by the German Consul and pay him 
forty-eight francs for his permission endorsed upon them to 
enter Germany. The French government admits travelers 
from Germany without requiring passports. Some American 
and English travelers who, without warning, have been turned 
back at the frontiers of Germany, are very indignant at the 
conduct of the German authorities. I would not be surprised 
if another war would soon break out between Germany and 
France. The result would probably be a further humiliation 
for France. The French are a brave people, but are not able 
to measure swords with the powerful German empire. Nothing 
but one of those unaccountable accidents of war which have 
so often illustrated the Bible truth that the race is not always 
to the swift or the victory to the strong, could save France 
from disaster in a conflict with Germany, in the present con- 
dition of her affairs. 



Petty Meanness, • 175 



XXXVIII 

Paris to Amsterdam— More About Paris — Petty Mean- 
ness OP Hotel Management -Political Factions- 
Reckless Driving — Metz — Fortifications and Battle-^ 
FIELDS — Marshal Ney — Bingen on the Rhine — Church 
OF ' Oberstein — -Watching the Rhine— Cologne and 
ITS Changes since 1869 — The Bones of St. Ursula and 
her Eleven Thousand Virgins. 

Amsterdam, July, 1888. 
We left Paris on the third of this month to visit the battle- 
fields of Metz. I leave Paris with an unfavorable impression. 
Travelers in Paris are very much like innocent flies flickering 
around the brilliant glare of a gas light. The Parisians look 
upon them as legitimate prey. They resort to petty acts of 
meanness an Englishman or a German would scorn to practice, 
A favorite trick of the hotel keepers is to withhold your bill 
until the last moment when you have no time for a critical ex- 
amination of the long list of trivial items or to correct mistakes. 
You must be careful not to break a glass, soil the carpet, or 
scratch the furniture of your room. If you should happen to 
wipe your pen, or let fall a drop of ink upon the gaud}^ cover 
of your table, you may find a charge in your bill for the high- 
est price of a new one. To upset the slop-jar means to pay 
for a new carpet no matter how old the soiled one may have 
been. Should you indulge in the luxury of blacking your 
boots upon one of the elegantl}^ upholstered chairs, you may 
expect to pay $10 for a new chair. The only safe way is to 
have your bills rendered every few days and closely scrutinize 
every item of charge. They have been encouraged in this 
system of small swindling, chiefl}^, b}^ American trpvclers who 
merel}^ glance at their bills and pay them. 

I was in the city a little over two weeks and made it a 
rule to call for and settle my bill every four days, yet I came 
very near being overcharged about four hundred francs. I 
called for my Bill the evening before my departure, but did 
not get it until about five minutes before starting time. I at 
once saw that the last payment had not been credited, and so 
informed the clerk. He very deliberately asked if I had my 
receipt. I informed him that I did not preserve my hotel re- 
ceipts, and requested him. to look at his cash book. He S'-id 
he had no time to examine the book, that was the business of 
the book-keeper ; that I could pay the bill and if I could show 
a receipt for the money they would take great pleasure in 



"4(74 Hotel Charges. 

refunding it. He did not suspect t^at I was plajdng with him, 
for I had the receipt in my pocket ready to produce after I had 
satisfied myself of his honesty. I then produced my receipt, 
but did not permit him to take it from my hand. He blushed, 
begged pardon, said it was a grand meprise'; examined his 
books with a provoking slowness ; said it was the first time in 
the history of the hotel that such a mistake had occurred, and 
then struck out three hundred and ninety-seven francs from 
my bill. If I had lost or mislaid my receipt I would have 
been compelled to pay the bill as rendered. 

Before giving me my bill, two men closel}^ examined our 
Tooms, sounded the crockery with a little wooden hammer, 
and examined everything in the apartments to ascertain 
whether anything had been damaged. Knowing their habits, 
we had been very careful not to injure or soil any of the furni- 
ture ; indeed we had been very little in our rooms except to 
sleep there ; the result was no extra charge. 

A young American gentleman stopping at the same hotel 
was not so lucky. He had his hair dressed by the hotel bar- 
ber, and on leaving paid his bill without examination. He 
afterwards discovered a charge of forty-seven francs for cut- 
ting his hair and furnishing him with a small bottle of worth- 
less hair tonic. 

The wife of another American gentleman, in the same 
hotel, sent for the coiffeur to dress her hair. Her husband 
arrived just as the job had been completed and was coolly pre- 
sented with a bill of about one hundred francs. The fellow 
had brought with him new brushes, combs, and half a dozen 
bottles of perfumes, and had charged for them all, though but 
a few drops had been used from each bottle. Instead of pay- 
ing the bill, in true American style, he gave him five francs 
and kicked him out of the room, bottles, brushes and all. He 
was lucky in not being served with a " Proces Verbal'' and 
severely punished for an assault and battery on the injured 
barber. A foreigner has no chance for fair play in the infer- 
ior courts of Paris. He cannot afford the time and expense of 
an appeal from the judgment of the petty magistrates and must 
consequently submit to injustice rather than seek redress in 
the higher courts. 

I particularly noticed the reckless driving by cabmen and 
others through the crowded streets. Pedestrians seem to have 
no rights. There are no flagstones for foot passengers. It is 
no uncommon thing to see a cab in a full gallop, or an omni- 
bus with the horses in a run, in the most frequented streets. 
To remed}^ the evil, the city authorities have certain stations, 
a few squares apart, called " Secours pour les Blesse,'" where 
fhey take care of the wounded. 



French Chakacteristics. 175" 



As far as I have been able to form a judgment of the char- 
apter of the Parisian French, I find them to be a very fickle 
and uncertain race, fond of trivial amusements and inclined to 
immorality. A large majority have no religious faith, and 
only live for- the present day in a state of feverish excitement, 
ready at any moment for social or political revolutions. All 
they care for is the gratification of their present desires with- 
out any regard to the future. They are now ready for another 
change of government, and are howling for war with Germany. 
Paris has many learned, wise and conservative men within its 
walls, but they are now the objects of public scorn and ridi- 
cule. There are at least six political factions in the city, each 
supporting a newspaper as the organ of the party. Not a day 
passes without some insulting squib or diatribe appearing in 
these journals, calculated to embitter the different parties 
against each other. In a word, they are now ready to seize 
each other by the throats and inaugurate again the times of 
1793 with all the horrors of the Reign of Terror. No one can 
predict tha result of war. It depends upon too many acci- 
dents ; but as far as I am able to judge, a war with Germany 
at this time would be disastrous to France. The match is un- 
doubtedly very near the magazine and a very little more fric- 
tion will cause an explosion that will shake Europe to its very 
centre. The great insecurity of France lies in the settled fact 
that Paris is the centre of its political power. The faction in 
possession of Paris rules France, The people of the Provinces 
are thrifty and conservative ; why they suffer the rabble of 
Paris to rule and ruin the country is an enigma none can solve .- 
Germany is ready at a moment's warning for the struggle. If 
it comes it will end either in the complete ruin or in the politi- 
cal regeneration of France. 

From Paris to Metz the country is mostly flat, but very 
rich. In many places fine, thrifty young forests are seen.. 
These have all been planted within the past twenty-five or 
thirty years. Just before reaching Metz the scenery becomes 
more broken and attractive. The weather was bad during my 
stay in the city, b}^ reason of which I was much disappointed 
in my contemplated tour of its battlefields. It is at this time 
the most interesting spot in Germany. The decisive battles 
around this city have settled for ages the map lines of Europe. 
The fate of the German Empire was settled here. The ambi- 
tion of France, which had been rapidly growing since she was 
so sadly humbled at Waterloo, here received its second and 
perhaps its final humiliation. 

An American, without seeing them, can form no proper 
conception of the immense fortifications around the city of 
Metz. The surrounding countrj^ is mountainous, with every 



176 Metz, 



!iUl strongly entrenched and mounted with guns of a mast 
irightful size. There are new works being constructed every 
day. The city proper has a population of about 55,000, be- 
sides a garrison of 20,000 men. The town is as old as the 
Roman empire. It was plundered by the Vandals and sacked 
and almost destroyed by the Huns. In the sixth century it 
was the capital of the Kingdom of Austria. In 1552 it was 
captured by the French and strongly fortified by them, They 
held it against Charles V., but lost it in 1871, when it was 
again reunited to the German Empire, where i-t will probably 
remain as long as the empire lasts. The present lines of suc- 
cessive fortifications extend for fifteen miles around the 
city. Metz can never succumb to an outward enemy by any 
force except treachery or starvation. The battlefields lie to 
the west, on the road to Verdon. It takes a full day and costs 
about forty francs to visit them. The battle of the i th of 
August, 1870, was very bloody. The French lost about 17,000 
and the Germans about the same number of officers and men. 
The Germans were fortified, while the French fought in the 
open field. 

In the battle of August 18, the Germans had 230,000 men 
opposed by 180,000 French. The Germans lost over 20,000 
officers and men; the French loss was about 12,000 There 
were two more battles, one on the 31st of August, the other 
on the I St of September. In the last struggle the French were 
driven back under the guns of Metz. 

The city has been much improved by the Germans. The 
influx of travelers to visit the battlefields has been a source of 
great profit to the several very good hotels of the place. The 
new passport system has completely ruined the hotel business. 
We found a very large and well-appointed hotel with no guests 
except ourselves. Nearly all travelers now enter Germany 
from France through Belgium or Switzerland, where no pass- 
ports are required. 

In the Esplanade, — a beautiful park in the centre of the 
city, — stands the colossal statue of Marshal Ney. I saw his 
grave in Pere la Chaise, at Paris, with no monument to mark 
his final resting place. I have often wondered why the Im- 
perialists of France have so neglected one of Napoleon's bravest 
Marshals, created a Duke by the Emperor in 1805, and Prince 
of Moscowa 181 2. While the other Marshals of France, buried 
in the same cemetery, have splendid monuments over their 
remains, Ney has nothing but an iron railing around his 
grave, and his name cut on the stone step under the gate. 

I noticed a peculiarity in the hotel regulations of Metz I 
have seen in no other place. The}^ reckon from night to night 
and not from day to day. The traveler's bills commence at 



BlNGEN ON THE RHINE. I7; 

5 P, M. ; the night ends at 8 A. M. the next morning. If he 
holds his room after 5 P, M., he is charged with another night 
whether he stays or not. 

We left Metz on the 4th of July, It was uncomfortably coldv 
We are all wearing our winter clothing and are non^ too warm-. 
We sleep under two or three blankets every night. Nothing 
but violent exercise will cause perspiration here. 

Our next resting place was ' ' Sweet Bingen on the Rhine. ' ' 
The scenery from Metz to Bingen is soft and lovely, here and 
there broken by the Vosges mountains which we skirt nearly 
the entire route. We passed the battlefield of Saarbruch^ 
where a sharp engagement took place between the French and 
Prussians August 6th, 1870, in which the French, although 
numerically superior, were obliged to retreat. 

At Oberstein, there is a church most curiously constructed 
in the cliff of a rock four hundred feet high. The church is 
cut out of the face of the rock about two hundred feet up the 
precipitous cliff, and presents a very weird and romantic ap- 
pearance. The railroad route follows very nearly the course 
of the river Nahe, passing through several towns of from five 
thousand to twenty thousand inhabitants ) among them Kreuz- 
nach, a watering place of great repute, celebrated for its natural 
salt springs and baths. The railroad station is at Bingenbruckj 
on the left bank of the Nahe, which we cross by carriage to 
Bingen . 

Bingen is a town of seven thousand inhabitants, completely 
finished several hundred years ago ; a most delightful place to 
spend a few days in rest and rural recreation among flower 
gardens, vineyards and mountains. The town is very old. 
During the thirty years' war it was almost entirely destroyed 
by the French. From the heights in the rear of the town the 
prospect is most charming. Old ruined castles upon the rocky 
hill tops of the Rhine may be seen for many miles down the 
river. On the opposite bank, about five hundred feet up the 
hillside, stands the new monument recently erected by the 
German Empire, representing "Germania watching the Rhine. " 
It looks very much like the new monument at New York, of 
*' lyiberty enlightening the World." A little to the right, on 
the opposite side of the river, stands the village ofRudesheim, 
surrounded by the celebrated Rude.sheimer vineyards, the wine 
of which is known all over the world. 

We made the trip down the Rhine from Bingen to Cologne 
in one day. Of course I will not be expected to describe 
sqenery upon which volumes have been written, and upon 
which the best painters and landscape artists have exhausted 
their skill. It looks about as it did nineteen years ago when 
I saw it last and then thought nothing in the world could be 



lyS Cologne. 

more beatitifuL I had not then seen the Danube, the Dardan- 
elles or the Bosphorus from Constantinople to the Black Sea. 
While the Rhine scenery is beautiful, I do not consider it 
equal to the scenery of the Danube from the Iron Gate to Bel- 
grade, I can easily imagine how the now barren mountains 
of Greece and Judea could have once been terraced as the 
mountains of the Rhine now are, and how they could have 
been covered with vineyards and verdure as these now are. 
If these mountains were neglected for two thousand years as 
those of Greece have been, every particle of soil would be 
washed off or be blown away and nothing but the barren rock 
be left- 

We stayed two days at Cologne, It has been very much 
improved since my visit in 1869, The cathedral, which ha;? 
been five or six hundred years in construction has been fin- 
ished, and is now one of the grandest Gothic churches in the 
world. The spires are five hundred and twelve feet high and 
of most perfect proportions, I do not remember ever having 
looked upon a construction of human hands more inspiring 
with a sensation of awe, than that presented by the first full 
view of this cathedral. The latitude of Cologne is nearh 
seven hundred miles north of Philadelphia, The Rhine here 
is about four hundred and fift}'' yards wide and flows with ■ 
great rapidity. The length of the navigable river from Bale 
to the German Ocean is about eleven hundred miles. Its 
average width is not over three hundred and fifty yards ; its 
average depth about five feet. At Bale the surface of the river 
is eight hundred and three feet above the level of the sea ; at 
Cologne it is one hundred and twenty-two feet above sea leveL 
I have been within a few miles of its source, near Toma-See- 
where it is seven thousand six hundred and eighty-nine feet 
above the level of the sea. It is somewhat remarkable that 
the Rhone, running southward, the Rhine, running north- 
ward, and the Danube, running eastward, all rise within a 
few miles of each other. 

The old bridge of boats still crosses the river at Cologne, 
Ivike Bale, Cologne has completely changed since my last 
visit. The old houses have nearly all disappeared and splen- 
did modern buildings have taken their places. The old town 
walls have been removed and magnificent new boulevards with 
houses like the new part of Boston have been built upon the 
site of the old bulwarks for miles. The old church of St. 
Ursula, with the bones and skulls of the eleven thousand 
virgins massacred with her, looks just like it did nineteen 
years ago- 



Amsterdam to London,, 179 



XXXIX, 

Amsterdam to London—Rotterdam a City on Piles^-- 
Delethaven and the Mayflower Pilgrims— A Curious 
Old City-^An Old Friend— The Hague— Diamond Cut- 
TING in Amsterdam— ^Holland, London's Kitchen Gar- 
den—Back TO London— The Pleasure of Hearing our 
Native Tongue Again^— Hotel Metropole— Impres- 
sions OF London After a Long Absence--^Off For the 
Polar Regions. 

London, July, 1888. 
From Rotterdam to Harwich by sea, and from thence by 
rail to London, requires about one day. We found the North 
Sea very rough. Most of the passengers were sick from the 
time we entered the Sea until we landed in England. We en- 
countered a wind storm dead ahead and for half an hour went 
backward instead of forward It is impossible to describe the 
complicated motion of one of the little side-wheel .ships of the 
line from Rotterdam to London. An ocean steamer never 
inakes such erratic movements. 

We landed safely about 9 A. M. on the day after our em- 
barkation and proceeded at once to this grand old city. 

Rotterdam is a very interesting old Dutch town of about 
170,000 inhabitants. Dam, in Dutch, means to keep out the 
water ; Amsterdam, means the dike of the river Amster, which 
runs through the town. Rotterdam is built upon a marshy 
plain from six to twelve feet below the sea level. The build- 
ings, in the old part of the city, are very irregular, twisted 
and out of plumb, leaning in different waj^s. Some look as if 
they were top-heavy and about to tumble into the streets, 
while others lean sideways and backward. The cause of this 
irregularity is the swampy, alluvial ground upon which the 
town is built. No trees can be found to make piles long 
enough to reach the firm earth. They now overcome the difh- 
culty by driving the piles up to the head and then driving 
others on the ones already sunk until a firm foundation is se- 
cured ; even then some of the laige modern buildings are out 
of plumb and slightly twisted. In Amsterdam they encounter 
the same difficulties, but not to the same extent, as the ground 
is firmer and nearer on a level with the sea. The whole coun = 
try around these cities was once a part of the sea and has been 
filled up to its present level by the wash of the Meuse, Rhine 
and other rivers. 

To an American, the most interesting place in Rotterdam 



Rotterdam. 



ii the old church at D^lfthavea and the adjoimng" wharf from 
which the Pilgrim Fathsrs sailed in the Maj^flower, in 1594- 
All their names are written in the church records ; among 
tnem I read that of Miles Sta;idish. The church has been 
preserved in its ancient form, with broad floors covered with 
clean white sand. The pews are of unpainted wood, built 
very high and uncomfortable,, with a board in front upon which 
rest great clumsy looking Bibles five inches thick and a foot 
square. 

The city has its rich, poor, middle class and Jewish quar- 
ters. The Jewisn quarter is inhabited by about seven thousand 
Israelites, who dwell chiefly in the old part. It presents a 
very amasing appearance. Tney seem to live in tne streets. 
The sidewalks are obstructed by wash tubs and women doing 
the family work, cooking, mending and nursing their babies. 
I never saw so many little dirtj'-faced but robust children. 
They play all over tne street. The men cobble and trade in 
the open street, and the parts of the sidewalk not occupied by 
the wash tubs and babies is used by them as a place of deposit 
for their packs and dog-carts. The pedestrians pa.y the same 
respect to the wash tubs, carts and babies on the sidewalks as 
the people of Constantinople pay to their sleeping dogs ; that 
is to say,- they walk in the carriage-way and go around the 
obstructions without complaint, as a matter of course. 

The most beautiful part of the city is that occupied by 
the middle class, which includes merchants and tradespeople 
generally, some of whom are very rich. Wealth does not here 
raise the class. Kach house is of a different order of architect- 
ure and is erected in the centre of a garden from one hundred 
to one hundred and fifty or more feet square, surrounded by a 
canal and approached from the street over a drawbridge and 
portcullis. The bridge is down and the portcullis up during 
the day ; at night the bridge is up and the portcullis down. 
The gardens around these beautiful dwellings are laid out 
with great taste, with gravel walks, arbors, flower beds and 
green, shady trees. The ground is so rich and the climate so 
mild that the vegetation is luxuriant and very fresh and green. 
There are no dead leaves. I almost doubted whether Death 
ever entered this little Paradise, but a piece of black crape 
bound by a white ribbon, hanging from one of the door knobs, 
dispelled this illusion and convinced me that there were loved 
and lost ones here as well as at home. All these pretty dwell- 
ing places have fancy names, such as "Felicity," "Paradise," 
"Jerusalem," etc. 

The poor quarter is in complete contrast with what I have 
endeavored to describe as the quarter of the middle class. The 
houses are high, old, ugly and dilapidated ; the streets long, 



Amsterdam. iS'r 

narrow and dark. I visited it on Sunday and will never forget 
the scene. The street was so crowded with men, women and 
children as to render it almost impossible to pass in our car- 
riage. The women wore the old Dutch costume of a hundred 
years ago. They all seemed healthy, and I really believe 
they were as happy as their more favored brethren of the other 
quarters. 

The whole city is traversed by canals navigated by boats 
of considerable size, some of them propelled by steam. There 
are several good hotels in the place. I selected the " Hotel 
de Pays Bas " because when I visited the city in 1869 it was 
a new and fashionable house. I was surprised to find the same 
guide there that showed me the town nearly twenty years ago. 
In looks he had not grown much older, but his hair showed 
the frost marks of Time. The hotel is still a comfortable 
resting place but not equipped with many of the modern hotel 
improvements. 

The city has a fine park running for several miles along 
the banks of the Meuse. Several old historic houses have been 
carefully preserved. They show the house where Erasmus 
was born, and the house where over one thousand citizens 
were saved during one of the massacres which followed a suc- 
cessful siege of the city. The house was filled with the flying 
and panic-stricken citizens, while the enemy, flushed with a 
dearly-bought victory, were sweeping the streets and slaught- 
ering the people. One of the cooler heads killed a sheep and 
smeared the door with blood. The passing murderers, sup- 
posing the house had been already sacked, passed on. Soon 
after order was restored and the citizens saved from further 
slaughter. While the city seems to be in a prosperous condi- 
tion, it is evidently much behind the age as compared with 
others of the same class. 

We went from Rotterdam to Amsterdam and out to the 
Hague. Amsterdam is a large and prosperous city of nearlj- 
half a million inhabitants, well built, but full of canals of green 
stagnant water. The canals of the city are crossed by about 
four hundred bridges and are, like those of Rotterdam, navi- 
gated by steam and other boats. We visited the King's pal- 
ace, museum, picture gallery and parks, and took a four hours- 
drive around the city. We also visited the world-renowned 
diamond -cutting establishment of Amsterdam. We stopped 
at Brack's Doelen Hotel, the best in the city and equal to any 
we have stopped at with a few exceptions. 

The Hague is alwaj^s a place of interest. It has been 
very much improved during the past few years. It is quite a 
fashionable watering place, and the residence of the King. He 



t82 Back to London. 

only dwells in his Amsterdam palace about a month in each 
year. 

We have had a fine opportunity to see nearly the whole 
of Holland and have either visited or passed through all its 
principal cities and towns. It is a land of ditches, canals, 
windmills and green luxuriant fields. They raise two crops a 
year and produce some of the best small fruits in the world. 
The market for the fruits and general produce of the country 
is L/Ondon. I,and rents at from ten to thirty dollars an acre. 
The people are very sober and industrious and apparently as 
happy as the people of France and German }•, and more con- 
tented with their government. There are but few politicians 
in Holland. 

I find lyondon very much improved since my visit in 1873. 
The Thames embankment was not then finished. It has con- 
verted the river Iront from the ugliest to the most beautiful 
water front in Europe, if not in the world. While Paris has 
retrograded I^ondon has advanced. To my mind, it is a much 
handsomer city now than Paris, and a much more pleasant 
place for an American. After four months of wandering 
among unknown tongues, it is trul}' refreshing to hear our 
native language once more. I have at times, while in the 
center of some great city, surrounded by hundreds of thous- 
ands of people, felt as lonely as if I had been in the center 
of the sea, or in some great wilderness entirely away from 
human contact, where every word I heard was as meaningless 
as the gibberish of a monkey and where I understood the dogs 
and domestic animals better than my own race,. I find the 
couriers and guides who profess to speak all the European 
languages very deficient in common conversation. They have 
learned only what pertains to their business. They under- 
stand the language of railroads, steamships, hotels and shops, 
but nothing more. After all it is not very dif&cult to acquire 
a sufficiency of such knowledge. But here, in Old England, 
we can converse with each other ; we can convey every shade 
of thought and sentiment ; mind can hold communion with 
mind without the constant strain and ludicrous mistakes so 
constantly made when conversing in a foreign tongue. 

We are now quartered at the Hotel Metropole, beyond 
question the finest in the world so far as the building is con- 
cerned. I have visited many palaces but have not seen one 
more completely finished than this hotel. It is one of the 
largest hotels in the world and is now full to overflowing. 
The service and attention required by the traveler, to make 
him comfortable, is not as good as that of the " Continental " 
of Paris, and not half as good as dozens of hotels we have 
found of less pretensions. There are now between one and 



London to the North Cape. 



two thousand guests in the house. I have vasited again the 
old landmarks of London and find them about the same as 
when I saw them last. The appearance of the city, however, 
as before stated, has been completely changed along the river 
front. Southwark looks just as it did nineteen years ago ; so 
do the suburbs of the city. The population of London is now 
supposed to be over 4,000,000. 

I have .hired a courier who speaks the languages of Detf- 
mark, Sweden and Norway, and have determined to visit 
those countries. If nothing interferes with my present plans, 
we will go beyond the Arctic circle as far as the North Cape, 
and take a look at the midnight sun. This excursion will re- 
quire at least a month. It is a big undertaking but the ladies 
of my family think they can endure it and I, therefore, ought 
not to refuse them such a treat. By the way, they have 
proved splendid travelers, at which I am agreeably surprised- 



XL 



London to the North Cape — Christian! a— Rugged Nor- 
way Fjords, Mountains and Glaciers-Long Twilights 
and Love Making — Temperance and Lic'ense Laws of 
Norway — Democratic Manners — Throndhjem— Beau- 
tiful Flowers— St. Olaf — A German Brute — Grand 
Send Off — Whales— Tromso — Troghatten — Hammer- 
FEST — Land Without Value— The Midnight Sun- 
North Cape — BiRD-KoosT Rock — Reflections. 
North Cape, Norway, 
On board Steamer Sirius, 
Midnight, July, 188^ 
We left London on the 12th in a fog, being the tail of 
a snow storm that passed over the city on the 9th. The 
weather was disagreeably cold, rousing fires were in all the 
grates of the hotel, and most of the guests wore their winter 
clothing. After providing ourselves with rugs, furs and other 
Arctic attire, we took the train for Tilbury, opposite Grave's 
End, where we embarked on the British ship Albanos for 
Christiania. The tide at Tilbury rises nearly twenty-eight 
feet. The wharf is connected by a long tubular bridge, work- 
ing on hinges, with a pontoon which rises and falls with the 
tide. 

After a pleasant voyage of three days, we arrived at Chris- 
tiania, the Capital city of Norway. The whole western coast 
of Norway, from Christiania to the North Cape, is a network 



l'84 Christiania. 

of rocky islands and fjords (pronounced /.^^^rf^). Some of the 
islands are- barren rocks, and manj^ of them mountains, from 
eight hundred to six thousand feet high, rising either abruptly 
or with a gentle slope from the sea. A glance at the map will 
convey a better idea of this rough, rugged and barren coast, 
with its many thousand island mountains, its fjords, glaciers 
and desolate hills of snow, than can possibly be given in the 
narrow limits of a letter. We passed one glacier containing 
over five hundred square miles of ice. We were on another 
nearly fifty miles long and twelve miles wide. 

Christiania was, within a recent period, a city of wooden 
houses. Commercial prosperity and some extensive confla- 
grations have converted it into a very substantial stone and 
brick built city, with fine broad, regular and well paved 
Streets. There is nothing very striking about the town. It 
is just -such a modern city as the traveler will find all over 
Europe. The suburbs, however, are more than ordinarily 
beautiful. There are hills fully eighteen hundred feet high, 
in close proximity with the town, from which most charming 
views can be had over the city and bay. These hills are cov- 
ered with thrifty green fir trees, which impart to the air an 
aromatic perfume of balsam. One of the lady passengers on 
the ship thought she smelt the fragrance of the forest pines 
as we passed one of the fir clad mountains before landing at 
Christiania, but alas ! for the uncertainty of our senses, the 
delicious perfume was found to come from the newly tarred 
shrouds of the ship. 

We took a drive around the city and its environs at the 
fashionable hour for such amusement, 7 PM. We returned 
at 10 P. M., in full daylight. It seemed very odd to see farm- 
ers at work in the harvest field at ten in the a/ter?ioon. They 
don't call \\. flight here until about 11.30 or 12 P. M. It is 
twilight all night at this season of the year. It takes several 
days of sunshine to cure the hay. It must be carefully spread 
upon poles, arranged like fences in the fields, so that the air 
can circulate through it. 

The city has a population of about 124,000. I saw noth- 
ing peculiar in the people except their free and easy love- 
inaking. It is no uncommon thing to find lovers, old and 
young, sitting on the benches of the park, or strolling among 
the trees and reposing upon the grass, in the beautiful suburbs 
of the city, nearly all night, always remembering that it is 
never very dark. It was as light at eleven P. M. the two 
tiights we remained there as it is at sundown in summer at 
home. I also noticed the horses as being of a different breed 
from any I have seen in America. They resemble the ancient 
war horses of Greece as they are painted in old pictures, with 



Throndhjem. 185 

great strong necks, very much t)Owed and with the mane cut 
short so as to make a crest. The_v are not very large, but are 
said to have great strength and endurance. 

The Norwegians were formerly heavy drinkers. A strong 
temperance movement has very much reformed this bad habit> 
They enacted, in 1877, a very stringent license law. I^icenses 
are sold at public auction to the highest bidder, who is com- 
pelled before he receives his license, to give security and pay 
about one hundred dollars for the privilege. Sometimes a pri- 
vate corporation is licensed upon condition that all profits over 
a fixed sum shall go to the government. They also have, in 
some districts, a local option law, by which a majority of the 
people decide whether any or how many licenses shall bi grant- 
ed. So, you see, the agitation of temperance legislation is not 
CDnfined to our country alone. 

In manners the people are very democratic. Common 
laborers do not hesitate to set themselves at the same table 
with the lordly traveller. If you invite your guide to dine 
with you, he will not hesitate to order a bottle of the best wine 
and quite innocently invite you to drink with him, but he ex- 
pects you to pay for the treat. The people, however, are kind, 
unaffected and polite and less inclined to take advantage of 
the traveler's necessities than the same class in other parts of 
Europe. The common people have a peculiar way of express- 
ing their thanks for an act of kindness. They do not speak, 
but simply bow and shake your hand. 

From Christiania, we went by rail to Throndhjem (pro- 
nounced Troneuvi). It requires seventeen hours to make the 
journej'-. We could see the country as well by night as day. 
Throndhjem is situated on the west coast, in latitude 63.30 N., 
on a line with Iceland. It has a population of about 23,000 
and is built chiefly of wood. The streets are wide and regular. 
It has several tastefully kept little gardens of the most beauti- 
ful flowers I have ever seen. One of the peculiarities of the 
latitude and temperature of Norway is to produce laiger flowers 
and broader leaves than the same leaves and flowers are in 
other places. Butter-cups are nearly all double. Clover heads 
are twice as large as in England, while the leaves and blades 
of grass are much longer and broader than in other countries. 
The perpetual sunlight is supposed to cause this increase in 
the leaf and blossom of annual plants. 

On the spot where St. OJaf was originally buried, a fine 
church has been erected, which is one of the chief objects of 
interest in Throndhjem. It is now only a fragment of its for- 
mer magnificence. In the eleventh and twelfth centuries, the 
Kings of Norway were all buried here. All the sovereigns of 
the country are required to repair to Throndhjem to be crowned 



tS6 To TvToRTir Cape;. 



Charles XIV.,, John (Bernadotte), Oscar I , Charles XV., send 
the present King,. Oscar II,., were crowned in this Cathedral„ 
There are several fine views and a beautiful water-fall near 
the city, well worth a. visit.. 

We were compelled, to remain at Throndhjem over a day 
to meet our ship^ which did. not arrive at her usual hour- 
because of a fog on her way from. Bergan.. We went on board, 
about 9 P. M-. She was a fine English built iron, steamer of 
about eight hundred tons, one hundred and fifty feet long,, 
with powerful engines and well furnished berths for over one-, 
hundred fi.rst -class passengers. I was a little sn<rprised to see. 
the American flag at her mizzen masthead and the English 
colors flying from her foremast This I suppose was intended, 
as a compliment to the English and American travelers on the 
ship. The tourists on board were Americans, English,, 
French, Germans and Italians, Among the Italians was a 
veritable prince. The Germans were also represented by a. 
gentleman from Ham.burg^ who claimed to be a m.ember of the 
Imperial Parliament. The Italian prince was a genial, polite 
and unassuming gentleman ; the German count was gruff, over- 
bearing,, proud and disagreeable.. He had not been on the ship, 
an hour before he got into a row with a Dutch courier from Rot- 
terdam. The courier requested him to move his chair, which, 
was in the passage way, to let the lady the courier was escort ■ 
ing pass. The German flatly ret used,, whereupon the courier 
called him a brute,. This offended the gentleman's- dignity,, 
and to appease his wounded honor be at once demanded of the 
captain, that the courier should either be sent in irons to Ham- 
burg for punishment,, or be put off the ship at the next stopping 
place. The captain seemed very much alarmed at the Ger- 
man's rage and actually paid the courier, out of his own pocket,, 
three hundred kronen (.$90>) tovo-luntarily leave the ship that 
night at the next landing. The enraged fool had not sense- 
enough to know that the only person he was punishing was 
the poor captain,, who,, by the way,, was a most excellent ofl&cer 
and courtly gentleman. 

It takes eight days by steamer ta gO' from Tbrondhjem to* 
the North Cape and return. I had no idea that the excursion 
had created so much excitement. It seemed to me that the 
entire population of the city were on the wharf to see us off", 
A band of most excellent musicians played the national airs 
of Eagl and, France and America, and "precisely at lo P. M. the 
discharge of four cannon upon the ship announced the hour of 
departure. You must always remember that lo P, M, there 
means broad daylight. From Thronhdjem to the North Cape 
there is no night. We did not see a star for eight days. The 
moon lost its red blush and had a sickly, dying look. The 



"TRo'^gd. i^ 



';ship winds its way among thousands of islands and mduntaiti 
scenery of a most interesting character. Some of the -mountains 
-are six thousand feet high, but do not seem near so lofty be- 
•cause of the great distances across the for-ds or bays which 
■separate them. 

We soon arrived at the Arctic Circle 66.50 N. , where, from 
'the 2 1 St of June till late in. July, the sun never sets. We played 
-for several hours with a school of whales. We nearly ran over 
•a very large one. We were .permittsd to land at a place where 
they convert the captured whales into oil, &c. I counted 
^twenty-three large, dead ones anchored a short distance from 
the immense vats and steam, machinery on the shore. Some 
had just been brought in, others looked and s-meU if they had 
'heen there for months. 

Our first regular coaling place w^s Tromso, a small wooden 
'built town of about six hundred inhabitants, in N. latitude 
'69.38. It is sheltered by mountains and is comparatively 
warm. There was a camp of L,aplanders a short distance from 
the town^ which the passengers Visited while the ship was 
'being coaled. We are now beyond the line of timber. There 
is a shrub here and there-, and now and then a little green spot^ 
•but vegetation is very scarce. The wood with which the town 
is built has been brought from Russia and exchanged for fish. 
All the country above the sixty-eighth degree of north latitude 
was known to the ancients as the land of Thtile. It was -a 
-■strange region., supposed to be inhabited by beings different 
■from ordinary mortals. Th-e ancient Greeks never explored 
it. Indeed-, in the reign of Theodoric, the people of Constan- 
tinople only knew it by conversations with exiles from those 
far northern lands. It was in this region that the ceremonies 
of the Christian celebration of Christmas originated. When 
the sun disappeared in the South they thought he was buried 
and their season of mourning began. When some watchman 
upon a high mountain shouted the glad tidings of the first 
•approaching ray of his return, which was about the twenty- 
fifth of December, then the joyous festivities of his resurrec- 
tion began-. When these northern nations became Christians-, 
they applied the same ceremonies to their rejoicing for the 
birth of Christ. Thus, one of our most interesting church 
festivals had its origin in a heathen custom. 

A short distance north of Tromso, we landed to ascend 
Mount Torghattan, or the marked hat. About five hundred 
feet up the mountain there is a hole, from fifty to a hundred 
feet squate, directly through it. From the sea, it looks as if a 
large cannon ball had been shot through the mountain. How 
the tunnel was made no one knows. The inhabitants say it 
was caused by an arrow from the bow of an old Norwegian 



Hammerfest, 



giant shot at his rival for the heart of a Norseland maid. 
They say the arrow struck his high Norwegian hat and went 
clean and clear through the mountain. The next day the ship 
stopped at a fishing station to give us an opportunity to visit 
a seven hundred year old churchy about two miles distant. I 
asked an old fisherman on the wharf, who spoke a little Eng- 
liish, why he did not leave these hyperborean regions and come 
to America, He smiled, shook his head and said there was 
no better country in the world than Harstahaven.. That was 
the naiue of the church. On the third day from Throndhjem,. 
we arrived at Ham^merfest,. the most northern city of Europe. 
It is also built of Russian timber. It has about two thousand 
one hundred inhabitants. Its situation is very picturesque, 
nestling at the fefet of mountains of rock in the form of an 
amphitheatre. It is sheltered from the northern blasts and 
gets the benefit of the sun's rays upon the bare rock of the 
mountains. The thermometer stood at 52^ while the water 
showed a temperature of 60. There were twenty-six vessels 
at anchor in the harbor in front of the town,, mostly Russian 
coasters. 

We are now at a point where land has no value. We 
have left all traces of cultivated fields far behind us. The mind 
suffers a sense of weariness in contemplating the boundless 
waste and endless desolation around us. The eye grows tired 
of perpetual sunshine and longs for the relief of a good old- 
fashioned night, 

Hammerfest is two thousand one hundred miles north of 
the latitude of Philadelphia, In the same latitude on the 
American side of the Arctic Ocean we would be in the region 
of eternal ice, Franklin perished in a latitude south of the 
North Cape, and the uninhabited regions of East Siberia are 
south of Hammerfest. 

As we sailed out of the harbor of Hammerfest, we got our 
first glimpse of the midnight sun. The view was ver)" imper- 
fect, and the passengers were very much depressed because 
of the threatening weather. Many persons come thousands of 
miles to see it and go home disappointed. There are times 
when it is not seen for weeks. On the 226., in latitude 70, we 
had a superb view of the full orb from 6 P. M. until 2 A. M, 
At half-past eleven every soul was on deck anxiously looking 
due north for the last minute of midnight. As the minutes 
passed slowly away it was an interesting study to observe the 
excited, care-worn and solicitous faces of the gazing crowd. 
The sun had gradually skimmed along the northwestern hori- 
zon from 6 P. M., at which time it did not seem more than 
half an hour high. It was about three degrees above the 
horizon, apparently about four feet high, when we were all 



The Midnight Sun, 189 

startled by the discharge of one of the ship's cannon, by which 
the captain announced the exact minute of midnight. The long 
suspense was over and a happy smile lighted up every face. 
We had seen the midnight sun. We remained on deck until 
2 A.M. and saw the sun begin to gradually rise higher and 
higher until he was about five feet above the sea, when most 
of the passengers went to bed for a long, happy sleep. 7\t 
midnight the sun is due north ; at 6 A. M. he is east, not 
more than 23 degrees high ; at noon he is due south, about 
45 degrees high ; at 6 P. M. he is west, back to 23 degrees, 
and from that hour gradually descends upon an oblique line 
northward until he again arrives at a point due north at mid- 
night. If we were at the North Pole the sun would apparently 
skim around the horizon at the same altitude. As we are nine- 
teen degrees south of the pole the effect is to give the sun a course 
around an imaginary eccentric, with its axis nineteen degrees 
south of the centre. The northern part of this ring is just 
above the horizon ; its southern part is about 45 degrees high. 
Around this ring the sun appears to travel daily . Every day the 
northern part of this ring descends until it drops below the hori- 
zon. The sun then commences to rise and set daily, the south- 
ern arc growing gradually less until he at last entirely disap- 
pears in the south, where, at his appointed time he appear^j 
again and so on to the end of time. 

The next day we started for the North Cape, where we 
expected to have a still better view of the midnight sun. The 
Cape being farther north and the headland being one thous- 
and feet above the sea, the sun at midnight is much higher 
than where we saw it. To put in the time, the captain visited 
the bird-roost rock, about twenty miles east of the Cape. 
When we were opposite the rock, which rises about one thous- 
and feet above the sea, a cannon was discharged. Instantly 
thousands upon thousands of sea fowl, with a cry of alarm ,. 
took wing and ascended in circles above the rock and over the 
ship. I noticed that not more than one-third of the birds roost- 
ing upon the ledges of the rock, flew away. The captain said 
they had learned that it was all noise and no danger, and only 
the young and timid were now^ frightened at an explosion of 
gunpowder. I thought that some men might take a lesson 
from the birds. 

We soon arrived at the Cape, cast anchor, lowered the 
boats and were all on shore. The ascent is very steep, almost 
perpendicular. We were about an hour getting to the top. All 
were elated at the prospect of a splendid view of the midnight 
sun. We were doomed to a most bitter disappointment. We 
had scarcely reached the summit when a heavy fog fell upon 
the mountain top and completely obscured the sun until long 



igo North CaPe to Copter^HAGEM. 



after midnight. We could barely distinguish where it w^^j 
but could not see the orb. While on the moutitain, I was very 
much impressed with our delusive ideas of size and distance. 
The cape did not seem over two or three hundred feet 
high, whereas it was fully one thousand. The ship looked 
about the size of a Delaware river tugi The mountains fifty 
iniles off appeared but a few hundred yards away. If these 
stupendous mountains and almost boundless seas seem so small 
to one only a thousand feet above them, how like a microscopic 
mite must the world appear to the eye that beholds the universe 
at a single glanee. • 

My letter is too long. I have tried to condense my 
thoughts, but find it almost impossible-. It was written by 
sunlight at midnight at the North Cape. 



XLI. 

-NoKTH Cape to Copenhagen— L,ast Look a't the Mid- 
night Sun — Depressing Sieence — Opticai^ Delusions — 
Once in a Lifetime I3nough---Bag« to Christiania — 
A Viking Ship One Thousand Years Old — What Will 
BE Said of Our Ships One Thousand Years Hence^=^ 
Familiar Names— =^Gin for Breakfast — Ancient Ship 
Customs — -Gotenberg — 'Prosperity in Europe— Birth- 
place OF Hamlet — Emperor of Germany's Reception — 
Kings OP Denmark and Belgium in Copenhagen — Great 
-Industrial Exposition--- Lotteries — Stone Age Relics 
— All Europe a Camp and Every City an Arsenal^— On 
to Berlin. 

Copenhagen, August-, 1^88. 
Just before our arrival at Hammerfest, on our return from 
the North Cape^ we had another view of the midnight sun. 
As both the sun and the ship were going southward, its disk 
•was not as far above the horizon at midnight as it was at the 
-North Cape. One who has seen the sun just before it goes 
down on a clear evening at sea, will have a very fair idea of 
the sun at midnight at Hammerfest at this season of the year. 
It is apparently about three feet high and casts a long glittfer= 
ing streak of golden rays along the smooth surface of the water. 
The clouds above are in a blaze of red, while those more dis- 
tant have a silver lining. 

Our return was through different fjords from our course Up 
to the Cape, thus giving us a more extensive view of the rug- 
ged mountains and glaciers of Norway, The eternal quiet 



A Viking Ship. igr 

and absence ol the usual signs of civilization in these desolate 
regions have a very depressing effect upon the mind, hard to 
express but felt by all travelers who have vistited the place. 
To me it seemed like a journey to the moon, or some dead 
planet. I was again struck with my inability to measure dis- 
tances or heights. Before landing upon one of the glaciers I 
tried to mentally guess its length and breadth. Making full 
allowance for previous optical delusions, I supposed its 
breadth to be five hundred yards and its length some two or 
three miles. It was in fact forty-four miles, long and twelve 
miles broad. I saw a rock upon the side of a mountain which 
I thought about fifty feet high ; it was in reality higher than 
the tower of the Public Buildings at Philadelphia which, set 
beside this mountain, would look like a child's toy. Fjords 
fully ten miles across do not look over half a mile wide. 

North Cape is worth one visit in a lifetime. T would not 
have missed it for all it has cost, but I would not endure the 
weariness and fatigue of a second journey there for ten times 
the cost of the trip. The great drawback to travel in Norway 
and Sweden is the unexpected distance between the points of in- 
terest. For instance, in our journey from lyondon to the North 
Cape and this far back we have traveled four thousand miles. 

On returning to Christiania, we gave the city a more com- 
plete examination and found it a very interesting place. It 
contains one of the world's most wonderful relics, an exhumed 
Viking ship, in sufficiently perfect condition to convey a very 
correct idea of the war ships of these people a thousand years; 
ago. This ship is seventy feet long, built very much on the 
plan of the vessels of the same size of to-day, and gives us a 
reasonably correct notion of the old mariners of " Norseland " 
who so successfully invaded England and other lands. As I 
stood on the deck of our splendid steamer, on our way from. 
Christiania here, and looked down at her powerful compound 
engines working like great dumb giants , I wondered what 
the world, a thousand years hence, when our present means 
of locomotion will most probably be forgotten, will think when 
one of these wrecked steamers shall be belched up from the 
bottom of the sea by an earthquake, or the drying up of the 
sea has exposed it. Perhaps the geologists of that day will 
pronounce it a fossil sea monster with iron ribs and skin of 
steel that fed upon coal and drank boiling water. They will,, 
perhaps, be about as near right as our modern philosophers 
are, in some of their deductions, from fossil remains. 

I notice all over Norway, Sweden and Denmark very 
familiar names, such as Williamson, Clemson, Johnson, Peter- 
son and many other names ending in son or sen, which has the 
same meaning here as Mac in Scotland and O' in Ireland, 



192 Copenhagen. 

Notwithstanding the stringent liquor laws of late j^ears, I 
find the Norwegians and Swedes very heavy drinkers. When 
you call for a glass of beer, they give you a pint, and they 
have free gin on the table for breakfast, dinner and supper. 
Withal, I see but few drunken men. There must be some- 
thing in the chilly atmosphere of this latitude that engenders 
a desire for strong drink. 

. On Norwegian ships the3^ still keep up some of their an- 
cient customs. For instance, the purser still carries the ship's 
money in a great bag or purse hung around his neck. It was 
from this custom that the ship's treasurer took the name he 
still bears, of " purser, " 

We came by ship from Christiania to Copenhagen. We 
had a very fine view of the coast of Sweden and the southern 
part of Norway. We stopped long enough at Gotenberg to 
fairly see the city. The coast near the town is very rocky but 
interesting. The city is built among the rocka, some of which 
project above the loftiest buildings. Most of the rocky emi- 
nences are either built upon, or crowned with forts or castles. 
The harbor was full of ships of all sizes, from ocean steamers 
down to fishing schooners. The streets are wide, well paved 
and reasonably regular. I saw nothing very remarkable to 
distinguish it from other cities of the same size on the conti- . 
nent, except its rocky site. It has a population of about 82,000, 
and appears to be a very busy and thriving place. It may be 
that Europe is falling into ruin and decay, but I must confess 
I have been unable to see it. All that I have seen points to 
great prosperity and a rapid increase of wealth and population. 
As we approached Copenhagen the country appeared flat and 
uninteresting, somewhat like Holland. Before reaching the 
city we passed Klsinore, the scene of Shakespeare's Tragedy 
of Hamlet. They show the traveler the brook, in which the 
fair Ophelia was drowned, and the grave of the Mad Prince. 

Copenhagen is a beautiful, well-built and very strongly 
fortified city. Several large forts rise out of the water 
along the channel, long before we reach the town. The water 
front presents a better appearance than that of most cities. In 
approaching the city we passed the old castle of Kronberg 
which we afterwards visited ; the guide belonging to the cas- 
tle not being able to speak English, our visit was not satisfac- 
tory. Manj^ historic memories, however, cluster around the 
place. It is well preserved and full of objects of interest. 
Caroline Matilda, of Eogland, was confined in this castle until 
George III., her brother, sent a fleet to escort her to England, 
where she soon afterwards died. 

The Prince of Wales's wife is the daughter of Christian 
IX., King of Denmark. The king seems to be very popular 



Copenhagen. 195 



with the people. I counted four iron-clad ships of war and 
several torpedo boats lying in the harbor. The city is built 
upon a flat island, indeed all Denmark is flat. The highest 
place in the kingdom is only about six hundred feet above the 
level of the sea. The people of the city seem to be very fond 
of out-of-door sports and rural pleasures. The city contains 
sixteen beautiful green squares, devoted entirely to the pleas- 
ure of the people. Tivoli Garden, in the centre of the city, is 
always crowded with old and young pleasure -seekers. On 
Sundays, and after business hours, one is struck with the bare- 
ness of the streets. It is just the opposite in the public squares 
and gardens, which will be found crowded to overflowing. I 
know of no town except Hamburg that h s more pleasure 
grounds and public amusements than Copenhagen. lyike all 
other towns of its size, it has its museums, art gallery, palace,, 
opera house, circus and theatre. We attended the circus once, 
and found it crowded to suffocation. The performance was 
good ; indeed it could not be better. 

The population of the city is about 280,000, The day 
after our arrival the city, and the Industrial Exhibition now 
being held there, were visited by Count Bismarck and the 
young Emperor of Germany. I expected to see a much more 
enthusastic reception. I secured places on board one of the 
reception ships and steamed out some ten or twelve miles to 
meet the fleet of the Emperor's escort. But few flags were 
displayed from private houses or ships. Of course the public 
buildings were decorated with the national colors of Germany 
and Denmark. The King also sent his splendid yacht to meet 
and receive the Emperor, and a grand salute was fired from 
the line of forts as the yacht and royal visitors approached ^ 
but any one could see a degreeof coldness that must have been 
anything but pleasant to the pride of the German Emperor. 
A few days before, the King of Belgium had visited the city^ 
and was received with great enthusiasm. They say there was 
not a private house in the city that did not display a flag,, 
while the people all along his line of march shouted them- 
selves hoarse in huzzas to his honor. The people of Denmark 
have not forgotten Schleswig-Holstein. 

The exhibition, now being held, is very creditable to the 
State of Denmark. It looked very much like our Centennial 
display in 1876, but, of course, was not so extensive or grand. 
I noticed several lotteries in full operation. The poor peas- 
ants were standing in a long line, dropping in their kronen- 
only to see a blank come out. About once or twice a day a 
prize of from five to ten kronen was drawn, and this seemed to 
set the people crazy for a chance to gamble. 

We had a full look at both the King of Denmark and the 



194 Copenhagen, 

Emperor of Germany as they descenJed from the ship. There 
was no difl&culty in seeing them both within the exhibition 

, grounds. I may be deceived in my estimation of the German 
Kmperor, but he does not look like a very strong man either 
mentally or physically. 

There is on; of the finest CDllections of relics of the stone 
age here to be found in the world. Hammers, axes, chisels 
and other tools in stone are exhibited in the Museum of Antiq- 
uities, in the exact farm of modern iron and steel tools. 

There are also exhibited here two petrified wooden coffins 
of a pre-historic age, with skulls and bones well preserved. 
The size of each skeleton is about the same as the present hu- 
man stature, and the shape of their skulls is highly intellect- 
ual, showing a volume of brain equal to Daniel Webster or 
Victor Hugo. If man is an evolution from a monkey, he must 

, rhave attained his present form and intellectual superiority when 
these old mummies lived, thousands of years ago. 

> In my drives around the city and excursions by water along 
its front, I w%s surprised to see the gigantic warlike energy 
displayed by such a small kingdom as Denmark. It seems to 
me that Europe must soon do one of two things: — either enter 

. upon a general; war until the- energies of all are exhausted and 
the powers be thus again reduced to a level, or agree upon a 
general disarming. It is quite certain that one Power cannot 
now remain idle while a neighboring State is drilling and arm- 
ing to its fullest ability. The result is that all Europe is now 
an arsenal and every cit}^ a military camp. ; 

ThCj weather has been very unsettled since we left Eng- 
land ; in fact we have been compelled to wear our winter cloth- 
ing ever since we left Vienna. Cherries and strawberries are 
now in season, while the wheat is still green and the grass not 
yet harvested. One peculiarity of Sweden and Denmark is 
their American mode of farming. They have the same style 
of barns, hedges, plows, mowing machines and fences. I have 
no doubt but that our idea of farming in Chester and Dela- 
ware Counties are largely due to early Swedish emigration. 

We leave here to-morrow for Berlin where we will, per- 
haps, sojourn a week, after which we hope to visit Hamburg 
and from there go to Scotland, Our time is now getting short. 
We begin to realize that our wanderings are nearly over,. 



Copenhagen to Berlin. . '95 



XLIL 

Cope;nhagen to Berlin -Political REi^LECTioNs---- A Beau- 
tiful BUT Dull City— Bismarck and the Emperor in 
1873 — The IvIFE of a City Depends Upon the Spirit of 
, its People-^First Impression of Berlin the Best— - 
Contrast Between William's and Augusta's Palaces 
—The Mother of the Young Emperor not Popular— 
lyESSoNS Taught by the Museum op Arms— An Improv^- 
ED Street Railway Car— On to Hamburg. 

'"- - Berlin, August, 1888. 

After a few days rest- in Copenhagen, I felt an irresistable 
desire to again visit the capital of the great German Empire. 
I saw it first in 1873, after the close of the Franco-Prussian 
war. It had then a population of about eighty thousand. 
While taking an early morning walk by the Royal PalaCe, I 
saw the Emperor and the, then Count, now Prince Bismarck, 
promenading arm in arm in the Palace Garden. The Empe- 
ror looked fresh and vigorous, but the Count seemed to move 
with pain and had a haggard and careworn countenance. The 
Crown Prince was then the idol of Germany, young, tall, hand- 
some and strong ; full of health and hope. Since then, both 
he and his illustrious father have died, and the ponderous 
crown of the Empire is now upon the head of an untried youth 
The "man of blood and iron " still lives, but even iron will 
rust and the warmest blood become chilled with age. Ger- 
many is now in the acme of its glory ; great, proud and Over- 
bearing. How long she will maintain her exalted position 
is the problem of the day only to be solved by her conduct in 
the future. She has wounded the pride of her neighbors. She 
has mutilated France, dismembered Denmark, humiliated 
Austria and insulted England. She is now Courting the friend- 
ship of Russia. If Constantinople is to be the price of that 
friendship, will England, France, Austria and Italy quietly 
consent to surrender all the advantages of the Crimean war ? 

In our journey from Copenhagen to Berlin, we noticed that 
the harvest was not yet ripe. We found Denmark, along our 
route of travel, very fertile but flat. It is covered with farm- 
houses and barns very much like some parts of our own coun- 
try. The hedges dividing the fields were very well kept, green 
and beautiful, giving to the land a very neat and fresh appear- 
ance. As we entered Germany and approached Berlin, the land 
became more sterile and sandy, very much resembling the 
State of New Jersey from Bordentown to Cape May. 



196 Berlin. 

The city of Berlin is situated in the centre of a fifty-mile- 
wide sandy plateau, at its highest point not over one hundred 
and twenty feet above the sea. The river Spree, about twice 
as broad as the creek at Chester, runs through the city. The 
population of the place has increased with a surprising rapidity 
since 1873. It now contains, including a garrison of twenty 
thousand soldiers, a population of 1,300,000, and in size is now 
the third city in Europe. The built up area of the city is about 
twenty-five square miles. The streets are splendidly paved, 
the houses tall and imposing and the general appearance of the 
city prepossessing. The heart of the city is around the Old 
Museum, Royal Gallery and Palaces, on both sides of the Spree. 

There is a striking resemblance in all European cities. 
T^he model of Western Europe was Rome, it is now Paris. As 
one goes farther East, ancient Babylon and Ninevah are the 
models. I^ondon is a mixture of Roman, Greek and Babylonish 
architecture. So is Berlin. When one for the first time stands 
upon the bridge over the Spree and looks towards the Old 
Museum, Royal Gallery, Palaces, University, Arsenal and 
other imposing public buildings in close proximity with the 
splendid street " Unter Den Linden," the city looks like the 
paintings representing ancient Babylon. While, however, there 
is a striking similarity in the general features of all European 
cities, there is in fact, as much diversity of appearance in them as 
there is in the faces and forms of the people that dwell in them. 
Some are young, fresh and rosy, others are old, bent and boney ; 
some are clothed in beautiful apparel, others clad in rags ; some 
are growing, others dying, Berlin is now rapidly growing in 
size and beauty. As compared with Vienna, lyondon and Paris, 
it is, however, a rather dull place. It has a splendid park 
within a short walk of the centre of the city, but it is not as 
lively and sprightly as the Bois de Bologne, at Paris or the 
Prater at Vienna. It is full of theatres and concert halls, but 
the plays and music are of a grave, heavy and august nature. 
In a general view, the city looks about as it did in 1873 ; in 
special details, however, it has greatly improved. The old ram- 
parts have been removed and converted into fine new avenues. 
The old rough cobble stones have given place to new Belgian 
blocks, wooden pavements like Chicago, and to asphaltum 
streets like Paris. Tramways run in every direction and public 
conveyance is easy and cheap. To my mind Berlin is not as 
fine a city as either New York or Boston, and a much duller 
place to live in than either. 

To most travelers the first impression ot Berlin is the 
best. As one walks down the broad street, crosses the bridge, 
looks over at what appears to be a Grecian temple, with tall 
Corinthian columns, and colossal statuary, flanked wiih hand- 



Berlin, 197 

som^ palaces and spacious hotels, lie is apt to form tlie hasty 
conclusion that it is one of the handsomest cities in the world ; 
but when he gives the place a closer inspection he finds what 
appeared to be grand marble columns and palaces are really 
nothing but brick masonry covered with stucco. The feeling 
is the same as that experienced when for the first time we dis- 
cover some idol of female beauty, made up of paint and cotton 
pads, or when we suppose we are looking upon a pure diamond 
and find it is only a piece of polished glass. Berlin, however, 
has some fine modern buildings of cut sandstone, granite and 
brick. They are, however, exceptions to the general rule. 

We gave the city a thorough ex amination . We devoted one 
day to a drive over the town and through the parks. We visit- 
ed its best Royal palaces, museums, galleries and monuments. 

Every visitor to Berlin should see the Palace of the Old 
King and also that of the Empress Augusta. Tney had sepa- 
rate palaces. The contrast between them is very marked. 
That of the Empress is very rich and beautiful, but filled to its 
utmost capacity with valuable toys, pretty little articles devertu, 
and useless but very valuable furniture, lace, diamond work, 
and a thousand articles that no one but a woman could ever 
gather together. It is nevertheless excessively feminine and, 
therefore, very pretty. In the palace of the old Emperor, on 
the other hand, everything is ample but useful, and m perfect 
■order. The decorations are of the richest kind. The walls 
are covered with splendid paintings by the best masters. The 
subjects all touch the pride and glory of Germany, The visi- 
tors to a part of this palace are required to wear felt slippers 
just as we were made to cover our feet before entering the 
uiosques of Constantinople. The object, however, is not the 
same. In one case the foot of the infidel must not touch the 
sacred floor, in the other the slipper is to deaden the noise of 
the feet upon tne bare polished wood and also to keep the floor 
clean. We have entered many royal and princely palaces in 
different countries, but have seen none richer or more elegant 
than the two seen here. We particularly noticed the portrait of 
the widow of the late Emperor Frederick, the daughter of 
Queen Victoria. If she was as fair as her picture represents 
her, and I have no reason to doubt it, she was a woman of rare 
beauty. It is hinted that the German people do not like her, 
No one has been able to inform me why. They ought not 
only to be proud of her, but also of noble old Queen Victoria, 
the grandmother of their Emperor. A very fine view of Ber- 
lin can be had from the top of the monument of Victory in the 
park. 

One of the most interesting places in the city is the Mu- 
seum of Arms, and the relics of the war with France. Aglance 



igS ■ 'BEKtiNV ■'. 

at the monstrous cannon, broken and battered by actual battle,, 
gives some idea of the terrible struggles around Metz and other 
fields. Some of these gtinsi show the indentations of as mam^ 
as six cannon balls on a single gun . Some have been struck 
in the muzzle, others have been broken in two,, while many 
have been bent and dismantled by a single shot. Exact models 
in plaster and wood of the several battlefields are here exhibited, 
and afford a most excellent study of the sanguinary scenes of 
the Franco-Prussian war, so full of glory to Germany and so 
disastrous to France. This museum- is intended to keep up 
the enthusiasm of Germany for her army, and it seems to have 
that effect^ for it is always crowded and is the scene of many 
a lecture from some old veteran who is always listened to with 
pride by the young people' of the city. One should never tire 
of looking at beautiful or interesting objects, yet I confess that 
I am weary of sight seeing. I have visited so many muse- 
ums of art and antiquity, and have seen so many of the world's 
finest paintings' that my desire for picture galleries and muse- 
ums is almost satisfied. Berlin can boast of a very fine gallery 
of modern art, and one of the best museums of antiquity in 
Europe 

r noticed in Berlin what seemed to me to be an im- 
provement in street car traveling/ The cars have ordinary 
omnibus wheels, the tires being the width of the iron rails:^ 
They have also a fifth wheel, raised and lowered by a lever, 
which falls into the groove in the iron rail in front of the fore 
wheels and keeps thetn perfectly in place upon the fail. By 
this simple contrivance the5' can pass each other on a jingle 
track by simply raising the fifth wheel, by which they become 
ordinary omnibuses, and turn out to pass, and then take the 
track again. We leave here to-morrow for Hamburg. 



Berlin to Edinbui^gh. 



XLIII 

Berlin to Edinburgh — Hamburg Again— A City in a 
Park — Daily Showers to Refresh the Flowers — Fol* 
LOWING the Track of Spring— Hamburg Soon to;Iv0SE 
ITS Charter as a Free City — Sudden Rise in the Price 
OF Goods — Old IvUbeck — Curious Architecture — The 
" Dance of Death " — On Ship for Scotland — All the 
Passengers but Ourselves Democrats and Free Trad- 
ers^Edinburgh After an Absence of Nineteen Years 
— Glasgow— The Exhibition and Queen's Jubilee Pres- 
ents — Off for York. 

Edinburgh, August 1888. 
The most direct route from Berlin to Scotland is through 
Hamburg where we took ship, and in about two and a half 
days arrived at Lrcith, the seaport of Edinburgh. The general 
appearance of the country from Berlin to Hamburg is flat and 
unprepossessing. Just before reaching Hamburg, however, 
the prospect improves. We suddenly emerge from a compara- 
tive desert into a beautiful city of mixed but very striking 
architecture, green and luxuriaat parks, gardens and lawns, 
lakes and rivers. Except upon the river front, Edinburgh 
looks like a city built in the centre of a great park. Much of 
the present splendor of the place is due to the great conflagra- 
tion of 1842. which destroyed one-third of the city. Enough 
was left to give a fair idea of the city in the olden time. Before 
the fire it looked very much like Amsterdam, Rotterdam, Eu- 
beck and other mediaeval towns. The contrast between the old 
and new town is very striking. The city now has a population 
of dbout 475,000, but in commercial importance it isne:JittoEon- 
don and Eiverpool. The harbor is literally full of ships from 
all countries, and presents a scene of very busy and active life. 
Besides the river Elbe, upon which the city fronts, there are 
two other rivers running through it, with large houses built 
up from the water on each side giving the city, along the rivers, 
very much the appearance of Venice. These little rivers 
empty into the beautiful lakes or basins in the very heart of the 
city and are crossed by small steamboats and fancy yachtSt 
looking very gay on a fair summer evening. 

The suburbs are occupied by rich and elegant villas and 
country seats, .some of them quite baronial in appearance. In 
many respects the city is unique. Its lakes, canals, rivers, 
parks, gardens and villas, all within a reasonable proximity of 
each other, together with the sharp dividing line between the 



200 Hamburg". 

old city and the new, distinguish it from all other cities of the 
same size. In a word^ it is a place of pleasant contrasts. It 
has a good art gallery^ a fine museum, one of the best zoologi- 
cal gardens, and the finest aquarium in the world. Being 
Protestant in religion,, its churches are plain, and not very at- 
tractive. I^ike most old cities, the ancient ramparts have been 
removed and their places converted into splendid drives and 
avenues, with long lines of trees of the greenest foliage. The 
luxuriant green fields,, lawns,, gardens and parks owe their su- 
perior verdure to the almost daily rains during the summer- 
Clear days here are the exception, the rule is a shower or two 
every day. We wear our heavy winter clothing and never 
venture into the streets without umhrellas or waterproof over- 
coats. It is a very bad place for a high silk hat. It looked, 
odd at first, in July,, to see the citizens in winter attire and the 
ladies in furs, but we got used to it. We sleep under blankets, 
every night. It may seem strange but it is nevertheless the 
fact, that we have been following the track of Spring ever 
since we left America ; we have not advanced enough to reach 
Summer yet, and when we get home we will find Autumn with 
its sere and yellow leaves to greet us,, and find one of the Sum- 
mers of our lives forever lost. We are now enjoying all the 
early Spring fruits, flowers and vegetables, such as goose-, 
berries, raspberries, strawberries, cherries, green peas (not 
canned) and asparagus. The farmers are just beginning to» 
mow their grass ; the wheat and oats fields are still green. 
We have at last reached a land of good butter. I think I have 
referred to the bad and cheesey butter of Italy and Greece,, 
where the butter was really grease. 

All imported goods are cheap in Hamburg. 1 find good 
Havana cigars here cheaper than in America, Hamburg is a 
free city ; that is to say, no duties are paid on foreign impor- 
tations. This happy state of affairs is to end with this year. 
By an Imperial decree, all the free cities of the Old Hanseatic 
I^eague are to lose their time-honored privilege after 1888, 
Merchants have already anticipated the supposed rise in goods 
by marking up their prices about 20 percent. The prosperity 
of Germany, like America,, depends upon her protective policy, 
England is nearly ready to abandon her free trade theories. 
She has already imposed a heavy duty on cigars, spirits, and 
silver plate. Silver, you know, is a great American product. 

I took a day, while waiting for the sailing time of our 
ship, to visit the old town of Lubeck, one of the quaintest 
places I have yet found on the continent. I found the coun- 
try between Hamburg and lyubeck very highly cultivated and 
thickly settled with prosperous farmers. In general appear- 
ance it looks very much like our own rich farms. The fields 



LUBECK. 201 



are about the same size , the houses and out-buildings have the 
same air of comfort and the boys and girls seem equally happy 
and contented. Travelers, as a rule, pronounce rural life 
and domestic thrift uninteresting. They confine their praise 
to gay city life or lake, river and mountain scenery ; but to me 
there is nothing more touching and really beautiful than happy 
domestic life amid green fields and well-fed herds. It has a 
charm equal to the gay whirl of city splendor, or mountains,, 
lakes, cascades and grottoes, especially when both. can be en- 
joyed, appreciated and compared. 

The city of L/ubeck occupies a very commanding position 
about ten miles from the sea on a small but deep arm of the 
Baltic. It is chiefly built of red .brick, ornamented with terra 
cotta, very much like the brick work of the present day. Most 
of the buildings are mediaeval and seem to have been erected 
without the use of the "plumb, level and square." There is 
scarcely a building in the old part of the town with a straight 
face or plumb front. Walls, not over fifteen feet high, are crook- 
ed and twisted. Two of the old churches have very high 
steeples which lean almost as much as the Tower of Pisa. One 
of the side walls is four feet out of plumb at a height of about 
one hundred feet.- To equalize the difficulty the balance of 
the wall leans about as much the other way. There are no 
cracks in the walls and the foundations are upon the firm origi- 
nal earth. The conclusion is, therefore, inevitable that they 
were built so ; why, no one can tell. Even the ten-feet-high- 
stone pillars which support the rich brick vaulting of the anci- 
ent cloisters outside the church, are out of plumb. There is- 
not a straight street in the city, but all are of good width and 
well paved. St. Mary's Church is a most remarkable struct- 
ure. It is immense in proportion, Gothic in style and con- 
structed entirely of red brick, with grand vaulted arches inside, 
and whitewashed, to make it look like marble. It has great fly- 
ing buttresses of brick, in imitation of the stone ones of Notre 
Dame in Paris. These are necessary to support the heavy 
brick vaulting over the interior of the building. The walls are 
visibly out of plumb, while the floor is at least ten feet out of 
level. It looks within like the enclosure of a graveyard by an 
immense church. Not an inch of the floor is unoccupied by 
old flat gravestones recording the merits of those who repose 
below. The church contains some very interesting relics of 
the Middle Ages, among which is a very old painting called 
the "Dance of Death." It is very suggestive of the imparti- 
ality of the King of Terrors in the choice of his partners in the 
dance. 

The new buildings are most substantial as well as beau- 
tiful in construction and conform with our idea of modern 



202 American Politics Abroad. 

architecture. The town has now a population of about 55,000 ; 
it once amounted to near 100,000. It was one of the first cities 
of th:i Hanseatic League, from the Articles of which many of 
tiie ideas in our Federal Constitution were borrowed. I visit- 
ed the old I^eague Hall, completed in 1443. In the Rathskeller 
the vaulting is very well preserved. I copied the following 
inscription from the chimney piece : 

"Menich man lude synghet ; Wen me em de Brute binget ; 
Weste he wat men em brochte, dot he wol weuen nochte." 

To show my progress in old Saxon I have made the fol- 
lowing impromptu translation, in which I claim to have pre- 
served the rhythm as well as the sense of the original : 

Many a man loudly sings 
When to him a bride one brings ; 
If he knew what they had brought 
He would cry for what he'd caught. 

After spending four days in Hamburg, we set sail for Leith, 
where we arrived in about two days and a half. The sea was 
smooth and the weather pleasant. Most of the passengers 
were English and Scotch merchants. They showed great in- 
terest in American politics and did not hesitate to express their 
hope that Mr. Cleveland might be re-elected. The reason 
they gave for their preference was what they termed ' ' our 
abominable tariff laws." They said that their correspondents, 
in America had assured them that the Democrats were free 
traders and that would be of great advantage to the English 
and Scotch manufacturers. I have now been four days in 
Edinburg and have made it a point to ascertain the sentiments 
of the merchants and business men of the city. I have not 
found a man who is not earnestly anxious for the success of 
the Democratic party, and all give the same reason — "our 
unjust tariff laws." It seems to me that if the election of Mr. 
Cleveland is to be of such immense advantage to the manufac- 
turers of Great Britain, it must necessarily be a corresponding 
disadvantage to our American manufacturers and workingmen, 
If they do not hope to profit by it, why are they so deeply in-, 
terested in Democratic success. 

I visited Edinburgh in 1869 and then thought it the most 
enchanting city I had seen ; now, after nearly 20 years' ab-. 
sence, and after I have seen all the most beautiful cities of 
Europe, I find no reason for modifying my former opinion of 
the place. It is without question the most picturesque and 
■charmingly located city I have ever seen. The old castle, 
five hundred feet abovie the sea level ; Calton Hill, with its 
imitation of the Parthenon ; Arthur's seat, nearly eight hun- 
dred feet high ; the green and beautiful valley running through 
fhe centre of the city, decorated with shrubbery and flowers ; 
the great waterless bridge crossing the deep ravine connecting 



Edinburgh and Glasgow. 20 ■ 



the old city with the new ; its parks, monuments, palaces, and- 
substantial cut granite buildings ; all tend to give to the placet 
a grand as well as a romantic appearance, once seen, never to 
be forgotten. It has been the home of Scotland's greatest 
poet's and literary men. Scott and Burns have immortalized 
it, while the sad fate of Mary Queen of Scotts has invested it 
with a peculiar interest to all the admirers of that unhappy 
queen. From Arthur's seat the prospect is superb. We can 
see the North German Ocean ; the Firth and Island of " Mac- 
beth's witches ;" the whole city of Edinburgh down to and 
including L-eith ; the hills of I^ammermoor and the scenes of 
many of Scott's most exciting novels. We visited Roslin Cas^ 
tie and chapel, about nine miles from the city, and were richly 
paid for the time and trouble. We also paid a flying visit to 
Glasgow, where we spent a very agreeable day in the Indus- 
trial Exhibition now being held there. 

Glasgow is one of the world's most busy places. It fur- 
nishes ships for all nations ; I have seen them on every sea. 
The city is full of familiar names such as Simpson, Clyde, 
McCay, McCall, and other honored Delaware county names. 
They were making great preparal ions for an expected visit from 
the Queen who had promised to attend the exhibition in a few 
days. The Scotch are among the most loyal subjects of Her 
Majesty and seem to have a strong personal attachment for her ; 
in this respect they are in happy contrast with poor Ireland. 

The exhibition is very much like the one we saw at Co- 
penhagen, and something like the Centennial Exposition held 
at Philadelphia in 1876 ; of course not as extensive, but in 
some respects equally as good. We had the pleasure of seeing 
all the Queen's Jubilee presents, exhibited in a building erect- 
ed for the purpose. They are very rich and beautiful, but not 
equal to those presented to the Pope at his jubilee and on ex- 
hibition at Rome when we were there. 

We leave here to-morrow for York, where we hope to 
spend a few days. 



204 Edinburgh to London. 



XLIV. 

Edinburgh to L-ondon-x^ Stop at York-The Oldest City 
OP England —An Old Fellow Traveler— Cathedral 
OF York — A S^ene prom IvanhOe— The Jewish Massa- 
cre in Clifford Tower — Dick Turpin— Micklegate 
Bar — The Booth Family— Back to Eondon— A Second 
Babylojn — The Tribulations OF Eetter Writing — East 
OP THE Series. 

Eondon, August, 1888. 
Seven weeks ago we left Eondon for a journey to the North 
Cape. After wandering over Ncrvvay, Sweden, Denmark, Ger- 
many and Scotland, here we are back again in this smoky old 
town. It is four hundred miles from Edinburgh to Eondon, yet 
Ben Johnson walked the entire distance to spend a few days 
with a ftUow poet. "O Rare Ben Johnson." We have not 
been in the habit of traveling by rail more than twelve hours 
■a day, and never by night; we therefore broke our journey 
Just halfway, at the very remarkable old city of York, where 
we remained two days exploring the wonders of that famous 
and intensely interesting town. On our journey from Edin- 
burgh we passed Berwick, Durham., Darlington and New Cas- • 
tie, and had a very excellent view of each. They are all noted 
places in English history. The cathedral of Durham towers 
over the town like the Minster of York. 

York is perhaps the oldest city in Great Britain. Some 
historians assert that it was a city of considerable importance 
when David was King at Jerusalem, It is certain that it is as 
old as the Christian religion. It has a well authenticated his- 
tory since A. D, 79, at which time the Sixth Roman Eegion 
was quartered there. The Emperor Severus, with his sons 
Geta and Caracalla, lived in York A. D. 208. Severus died 
there. His son Geta was Supreme Judge of the Tribunal of 
Justice, and the great old Roman lawyer Papinianus was his 
counsellor. Caracalla murdered his brother Geta and Papin- 
ianus was put to death in Rome for refusing, in a public ora- 
tion;, to declare Caracalla innocent. There is a mound a short 
distance outside the city walls where Severus's body was burn- 
ed. His ashes were put into an urn and sent to Rome. There 
is another mound about two miles beyond the bulwarks sur- 
rounded with hoary old oak trees where, tradition says, one 
of the Danish Kings was buried. 

The city is situated on the river Ouse, which is navigable 
up to its site. It is surrounded by well-preserved Roman walls. 
There is not a city in all Great Britain that has preserved its 
ancient character so well as York. It has streets with houses 



YoRK» 205 



<on each side of unknown age. Some of the old houses have 
recently been reconstructed and their foundations were found 
to be of Roman masonry, Roman antiquities are constantly 
being exhumed in the improvement of the city. While in Sicily 
we made the acquaintance of a gentleman Irom York whom I 
at first took for a traveling .photographer. He had with him 
a complete set of instruments and was very industrious in 
securing good views of all the noted places in that historic 
country. His manners were so gentle and courtly that we 
soon concluded I had -made another mistake in relying upon 
first impressions. On parting at Messina we exchanged Cards 
with a Jiind invitation on his part to call on him if we should 
visit York. After we were comfortably settled in our hotel, we 
inquired of the lady in charge cf the desk, whether she 
knew a gentleman in York named Tempest Anderson. " Ob, 
yes," she replied, "everybody in York knows Dr. Ander- ' 
son." We had hardly made the inquiry when we were 
delighted to see our old traveling companion descending the 
stairway. He had been sent lor to visit a sick person in 
the hotel. The meeting was very. pleasant. We found our 
supposed traveling photographer to be one of the most cele- 
brated physicians of York. He insisted upon our taking tea 
with him and inspecting his wonderful old house, or rather 
houses, lor he had, at great expense and exquisite taste, repair- 
ed and partially restored three of the oldest houses in the cit}^ 
and rendered them a most charming dwelling place for him^- 
self, his most agreeable and courtly mother and his two lady- 
like and highly cultivated sisters. He drove us over the 
town and surrounding suburbs and gave us historic and other 
information we could not otherwise possibly have acquired. 
Through his influence, we were permitted to see places of great 
interest not open to strangers. On visiting the Museum the 
next day we were struck by the beauty and systematic arrange- 
ment of some rare minerals from Norway. To our agreeable 
surprise we read upon the label that thc}^ had been presented 
to the Museum bv Dr. Anderson. Upon making further in- 
quiry we learned that we had been entertained by one of the 
best citizens of York and withal a gentleman of culture as well 
as of great scientific acquirements. 

We visited every place of note in and around the city. 
The most prominent object is the Cathedral or " Minster," as 
it is called. It is a grand Gothic pile, more imposing than 
beautiful. Clifford's Tower is a very interesting ruin. It was 
founded by William the Conqueror, and was the scene of the 
massacre of the Jews of York, so touchingly referred to in 
Ivanhoe. Isaac of York and Rebecca, his beautiful and faithful 
daughter, are two of the best characters in that celebrated novel. 



•ZQ^i Massacre of Jews. 

On the nth of March, 1190, at the beginning of the reign of 
Richard I., i. terrible persecution commenced in England 
against the Jews. In York, the mob were led by a fanatic 
monk ; the Jews were massacred without mercy. After the 
house of the chief Jew of York, named Benet, had been plun- 
dered and his wife and children killed, five hundred Jews fled 
•to York Castle, carrying their treasure With them ; all that 
remained in the town were massacred. Those who took refuge 
dn the castle made their final stand in Clifford's Tower and 
maintained the seige for several days till hunger overcame 
them. Finding themselves lost, they resolved to kill each 
other. Jacen then killed his wife Amia and her sons ; the rest 
followed his example. The castle was then set on fire by them- 
selves and all perished in the flames. The next day the Regis- 
ter of their bonds and mortgages was taken by the mob and 
burned in the streets of York, It is only necessary to add that 
the offenders were never punished except by trifling fines. 
Nearly one thousand innocent men, women and children were 
murdered in cold blood by a mob called Christians. The tower 
was repaired by the Barl of Cumberland whose family name 
was Clifford, from which it has since taken the name of the 
" Clifford Tower." 

The Castle of York, after the fortress was dismantled, was 
converted into a prison. Among the prisoners confined within 
its walls were Eugene Aram and the celebrated highwayman, 
Dick Turpin, We saw the spot where his black mare " Bess "" 
fell dead after his ride from London, two hundred miles, in 
four hours. Dick had committed a robbery and murder upon 
Hounslow Heath at 5 o'clock, A. M., and was arrested in the 
Market Place of York for knocking a butcher down at 9 A. M., 
on the same day. When the news came to York, several hours 
later, of the murder and robbery, and Dick was accused of the 
crime, he successfully pleaded an "alibi" and was acquitted 
because of the supposed impossibility of traveling, even by the 
fleetest horse, two hundred miles in two hundred and forty 
minutes. I remember, when I was a small boy, hearing one 
of my father's men, who was from York, singing in the pecul- 
iar dialect of the peasantry of Yorkshire, a song about •' Black 
Bess, " the opening verse of which I can still recollect. 

" Dick Turpin upon the Hounslow Heath, 
His black mare Bess, bestrode : 
He saw the Bishop's coach and four 
Come galloping down the road ; 
He bade the coacbman stop, but he 
Suspecting of the job 
His horses lashed, but he soon rolled off 
■• With a brace of slugs in his knob. 

Then whispering in his black mare's ear. 

Who luckily was not fagged, 

' Now travel far and faSt, my dear. 

Or I shall be surely scragged,' " etc. 



Historic Spots in York. 2of 

I have no doubt but that many of the traditional feats of 
"' Black Bess " and Dick Turpin are fabulous, but the jockies 
of York believe them all as firmly as they do the Gospel. 

The bars and towers of the city wall are full of historic 
interest. I can only refer to one of the bars which stands to- 
day very much as it appeared after the celebrated battle of 
Marston Moor— I refer to Micklegate, at the end of the street 
of the same name. The arch is supposed to be Norman. At 
the top of this gate were exposed the heads of traitors. Dur- 
ing the wars of the Roses the Duke of York, in 1460, had his 
head fixed. on one of the highest spikes so that " York might 
look over York.'' His son, Kdward IV., entered the city after 
the battle of Towton and beheld his father's head over the gate 
with the inscription above noted pinned above it. He caused 
the heads of the Earls of Devon and Wiltshire to replace that 
of his father. After the battle of Marston Moor the defeated 
Royalists, fleeing from the fatal field, sought admission into 
the city by this gate, and tradition says many hundreds died 
of exhaustion in sight of the open gate. 

We visited the palace of the Archbishop of York where 
His Grace lives in regal splendor. The name of Booth is very 
common in the city. The ancestors of the Booth family of 
Pennsylvania came from York. One of the Archbishops bore 
that name, and one of the city gates is called Bootham Bar. 
The population of the city is about 80, coo. It is rapidly in- 
creasing and bids fair soon to regain its old-time importance 
as one of the chief cities of Great Britain. It may be inter- 
esting to some of your readers to add, that the Quakers of York 
founded the first lunatic asylum where kind and gentle treat- 
ment to that most unfortunate class of patients was tried as an 
experiment, and which is now the accepted treatment all over 
the world. My ancestors came from Yorkshire. 

I have devoted about ten days to life in London and find 
it a little world in itself. One could spend a month here without 
knowing much of the city. If we confine ourselves to its ave- 
nues of trade and fashionable streets, its grand hotels, places of 
amusement and recreation, churches and benevolent institu- 
tions, we must concede to it a high state of moral, business and 
religious culture ; but, if we explore its dens of vice and districts 
of squalor and poverty, we must declare it the Babylon of mod- 
ern cities and the most wieked place in the world. I have seen 
grog shops lull of girls and boys, with maids behind the bar 
dealing out liquid poison here called " spirits," at three pence 
a glass I have seen drunken men and women staggering 
through the by-streets and lanes of London on a Sundaf after - 
noon within a stone throw of fashionable churches filled with 
pious Christian worshipers. There are places in London to day 



20S HOMETWARD BoUND". 

where it is dangerous to walk even in daylight. Withal the 
city is well governed and has the best and most reliable police- 
men of any city, perhaps, in the world. When we consider its 
enormous population, we can only wonder at the power of the 
municipal authoritj^ that is able to preserve order as well as it 
does, and keep such a restless and discordant mass in anything 
like peace and harmony. 

This will be my last letter from abroad as I find it tire- 
some to write of places I have previously visited and formerly 
endeavored to describe. We have traveled over Kurope from 
Brest in the west,, to the Black Sea in the east, and from Mount 
^tna in the south, to the North Cape in the Arctic Ocean, 
We have been within two days' travel of Africa, and have 
stood upon one of the mountains of Asia, We have seen the 
site of ancient Troy and looked at snow-clad Olympus, 

My letters are only an index of what we have seen, and 
have been written without revision or the care I would like to 
have given them. I must apologize for their hurried and often 
slovenly style. No one knows their imperfections better than, 
myself. Many of them were written under circumstances qf 
great difficult}'^ and most of them when I ought to have been, 
asleep. Travelers will understand this much better than my 
readers possibly can. 



XLV 

From Nkw York to Liverpool Once More — ^Glimpses at 
lyiPE ON THE Ship — A Good Place to Study Character 
— ^TiME Counted NOT from Wharf to Wharf, but prom 
Discharging and, Taking the Pilot — A Floating City 
—Death on Shipboard — Size of the Ship— Moonlight 
ON THE Sea— Latitude and Dongitude, How to Find 
IT BY THE Stars— Distinguished Passengers — -Purse 
Proud Travelers— Taken for a Preacher — A Blue- 
Stocking. 

lylVERPOOL, July, 1889. 
After a rather pleasant voyage of seven days, we landed 
here early this morning. The weather is cold and disagreeable. 
This, however, is nothing new for Liverpool. Many persons 
erroneously suppose the time required to cross the sea is reck- 
oned from wharf to wharf. This would not be just to the ship. 



On the CriY of Paris. 209 

The pilot has charge from New York to Sandy Hook, and the 
journe}' from Oueenstown to Liverpool is often broken by time 
lost in receiving-, discharging and waiting for the mail, and delay 
caused by the low water at the bar of the Mersey, for these 
reasons the time is always counted from Sandy Hook to 
Queenstown. Our ship averaged a run of four hundred and 
twenty-two miles a day. The ship is well named, *'The City 
of Paris, ' ' for she resembles a floating city in more respects than 
in the number of her passengers. In her present trip, she 
carried about two thousand persons, including her officers and 
crew, and among them, it was not difficult to find the follies 
as well as the pleasures of Paris. 

A ship, such as the City of Paris, is a favorable place for 
the study of human character. Men and women may conceal 
their true dispositions upon the shore — they may dodge you 
if they cannot deceive you on the land, but when you catch 
them on a ship and closely observe their conduct for eight or 
ten consecutive days, you cannot fail to read their characters 
and know them, perhaps, much better than they know them- 
selves. The character will crop out if you keep it under your 
eye long enough to remove restraint and give nature time to 
work. 

This is certainly the iron age. Everything about the ship, 
even the masts, spars, booms, cross-tree? and yards, are of 
iron. The iron decks are covered with planks and the masts 
and spars painted to imitate wood, but this is only a sham ; 
she is an iron ship from stem to stern. When lying at her 
pier, where she can be compared with other ships she looks 
rather large, but on the vast ocean she does not at all impress 
one with her enormous dimensions. One can form some idea 
of her size by taking a walk around her promenade deck. 
Fifty yards is cut off for the second cabin promenade, and about 
the same for the steerage passengers, yet every seven walks 
around the promenade for the first-class passengers makes one 
mile. The smoking room is the most interesting place for 
men, and the deck, in good weather, the favorite spot for the 
ladies. The smoking room will comfortably seat one hundred 
and fifty persons and leave ample space for the steward to sup- 
ply segars and liquors to the guests. The bar is open every 
day, Sunda}^ not excepted, and yet it is a very rare thing to 
see an intoxicated person. I have not seen one upon the ship. 
In this respect there has been a great change within the past 
twenty years. Gambling is still the great vice of the ship. I 
may also add that I have seen but little flirting among the 
j^oung people. During this voyage we have all conducted 
ourselves with becoming propriet}^ 

Although the weather was not very rough, yet a great 



TTO- Cross fNG thte OcEAfT. 

majority of the passengers, from the second to the fourth day 
out, were very sick. Several of the ship's stewards had to go 
to their berths. This is a rare occurrence. The third day 
out, one of the firemen died. They buried the poor fellow 
the next morning at 4 o'clock. Many of us did not. know of 
his sickness until after he was thrown into the sea. 

For two days we passed through a dense fog. The hoarse 
fog- horn blew every two minutes and materially interfered with 
our conversation by day and our sleep at night. I/ike many 
of danger's warnings it was very disagreeable but absolutely 
necessary. After the fog lifted the sky became beautifully 
c ear, the play of sunlight upon the waves was charming, the 
spray caused by the dash of the ship through the billows made 
little rainbows, and the light shining through the white foam 
gave to the deep blue waves a crest of apple-green. At night 
the moonlight was superb. There is no place like a ship for 
the study of the geography of the heavens. As we keep on the 
40th degree of north latitude the stars all look familiar and 
homelike, but as we go northward, for every sixty-nine miles 
they rise one degree higher. Polaris gets higher up every 
night. I looked at him the last night I was on the ship and 
found him about fifty-five degrees, whereas he is only forty de- 
grees high at Philadelphia, With a chronometer, quadrant, and . 
nautical almanac, there is no difficulty in finding our correct 
latitude and longitude at sea. The degree of altitude of the 
North star is always the degree of north latitude of the observer. 
To find our longitude require;; only a little calculation. Ifwe 
see a star rise at nine o'clock which our nautical almanac in- 
forms us rises at Greenwich at eight o'clock, we know we are 
one hour west of the meridian at Greenwich, and as the same 
star in twenty-four hours makes the entire circumference of 
the earth, it follows that we are just the one twenty-fourth of 
the earth's circumference on a given parallel of latitude, west 
of the meridian of Greenwich. 

We have a few distinguished men and women on the ship 
and a great many who would like to be so considered. It is a 
great accomplishment in any one to be able to see himself as 
others see him. I^et me illustrate this thought by one or two 
occurrences during the voyage. As we passed Staten Island,. 
I noticed a large, vulgar-looking man, with a big jaw and 
heavy eyebrows, standing upon one of the hatches with a large 
field-glass to his eye and a red handkerchief in his right hand,, 
which he vigorously waved at one of the beautiful mansions 
upon the shore. I noticed that between each wave of his red 
flag he would look out of the corners of his eyes to see if any- 
body was looking at him. After a little while I approached 
him ; he seemed pleased to be interviewed. I said : " that is 



Character Study. 211 

a very fine house ; I suppose you know some one that lives 
there, as I saw you waving your handkerchief. But I saw no 
one respond. Do you know the happy owner sir ? " " Know 
the happy owner ! " said he, " why, I'm the man myself." I 
at once congratulated him upon his good fortune, and suggest- 
ed that he must have had some good luck in money-making. 
" You're right," said he, "I've made a hundred dollars an 
hour for th^ last fifteen years." 

A gentleman from Colorado was very talkative about the 
wonders of Denver. He evidently had a poor memory, for 
every time I conversed with him he told me the same story as 
a great secret (which he did not care to have repeated as it 
might give him too much notoriety on the ship) ; that he had 
made at least half a million in land speculations around Denver, 
and now owned five square miles of land. His only trouble 
was that he only had one daughter and he was very much 
afraid some English lord would fall in love with her while 
abroad. I overheard him tell the same story to at least a dozen 
others on the ship, and always with an air of great confidence. 

One evening after dinner, I was standing by the hand-rail, 
musing over the many curious phases of human character 
around me, when I was gently touched by a sedate looking 
old gentleman, with an enormous upper lip, big spectacles on 
his nose, white cravat and high broad-brimmed hat. He said 
in a half-subdued tone, " Have I the honor to speak to a min- 
ister of the Gospel ? " I said, " My good friend, why do 3^ou 
take me for a preacher?" "Well," said he, " your sedate 
manner, the serious cast of your face and your-y our- well, your 
white cravat made me think you were one of us." He con- 
tinued, "there's a kind of free-masonry among us preachers 
by which we can generally know each other." Now, said he, 
* ' of what denomination would you take me to be ? " " Well, ' ' 
said I, " If you will permit me t) give an honest answer, I 
would take you for a Mormon Elder on his way to Europe for 
recruits." He did not speak to me again during the whole 
voyage. 

I saw a tall, hook-nosed, but very black-eyed woman verj^ 
busy taking notes. I made the following memorandum in my 
diary : ' ' That woman is perhaps a blue-stocking from Boston ; 
I would like to see her diary ; maybe she is an authoress ; 
perhaps a female lecturer ; wonder what she says in her notes 
about me." A few days afterwards, when the passengers be- 
gan to fraternize, I told her if she would show me her notes 
concerning her first impression of me, I would show her my 
observations about her. She at once accepted the proposition. 
Here is an exact reproduction of her note book ; " I do wonder 
who that tall gentleman with a white cravat and Scotch cap 



212 Liverpool. 

ss ? I think he's a preacher— no, he wears diamonds — -a g'affl- 
bier, perhaps. He's taking notes — -maybe he's criticizing me 
— thinks he's good looking — -I don't — wouldn't have the best 
man on the ship — what horrible conceited things men are any- 
how." Every time we m^L on the deck there was a peculiar 
twinkle in her black eye, as much as to say, ' ' Old fellow you 
didn't get much the better of me. ' ' 

But I must bring my letter to a close.. I go from here to- 
morrow to Stratford-on-Avon,. to see the grave of Shakespeare 
and from, there to old Warwick Castle, 



XLVL 

lyivERPOOL TQ Rouen — -A Crank — -Happy ChiLtDhood — A 
Day in L^iverpool — -Its WonderpuIv Docks and Sea 
Walls — ^St, George's Hall — Birketsthe ad— Birming- 
ham — Old Warwick the King Maker's Castle — Rural- 
England — Stratford-on-Avon — An Englishman's Idea 
OF Philadelphia— Kennelworth— Exploring THE Slums- 
OF Eondon — Brighton — New Haven — Sudden Change- 
FROM England to France — -Rouen— Jeanne D'Arc — . 
The Butter Tower — Bird's Ey2 View from Mount- 
Gargon. 

RouEN^July,, 1889. 
Eiverpool is about two hundred and forty miles west of 
^ueenstown. It took all night and until 11 o'clock next 
morning to reach the bar over which,, at low tide, vessels draw- 
ing more than twenty feet of water cannot pass. The tide falls- 
about twenty-seven feet.- Our ship drew about thirty-two feet 
of water and, consequently, six hours were lost waiting for the 
rise of the tide. We had to cast anchor ten miles from the 
city and entirely out of its sight. 

In Liverpool I met one of the cranks of the ship. In my 
hurry to get off my last letter I neglected to notice him. He- 
was six feet two in height,, wore his straight black hair six; 
inches long over his ears and down his back.- He had a very 
large nose and retreating forehead ; he wore a white cravat and 
long frock coat ; he would be taken for a preacher were it not 
for a large cluster diamond pin in his .shirt bosom. He was 
very exclusive during the whole voyage and was evidently 
impressed with his own importance'. He was registered on 
the ship's catalogue as a Southern Colonel. To my surprise 
I found he had registered at the hotel as a D. D. Some wag, 
perhaps one of his fellow passengers on the ship^. had added 
between brackets (D. F.) 



Liverpool TO Warwick. 21 



I saw, in lyiverpool, a procession of romping little child- 
ren returning from a picnic. They seemed so happy in their 
holiday dresses that it did my heart good to see and hear them. 
After all, if they only knew it, children are the happiest of 
God's creatures. After we arrive at fifty years, life's enjoy- 
ments consist chiefly in the recollection of past pleasures. We 
must not censure an old man if, in a moment of forgetfulness, 
he acts like a boy, nor blame an old lady for a little girlish 
coquetry. They are only enjoying the innocent perfume of a 
few flowers gathered from the thorns and briers along life's 
pathway- 

The city of Liverpool is usually ignored by American 
travelers, who, in their anxiety to see London and Paris, 
neglect one of the finest cities in Europe. The commerce of 
the place is enormous ; its docks are the wonder of the world ^ 
the sea wall and the stupendous floating wharves are more 
wonderful than the hanging gardens of Babylon, I doubt very 
much whether any city in the world has such Cyclopean works 
as the walls, docks and floating wharves of Liverpool. New 
York will not haye such a river front in a thousand years. 
The city is regular, clean, well paved and well built. It is 
adorned with some very beautiful and architectural structures, 
among which is St. George's Hall, a noble building of solid 
stone supported by fine Grecian columns. The grand arched 
interior is also supported by finely polished granite columns, 
some of them monoliths. The great window of stained glass 
representing St. George and the Dragon, has a very beautiful 
effect when seen from the interior- I spent a day riding and 
walking over the city and suburbs and was richly compen- 
sated for my time and labor. At this season the days here are 
very long ; it is daylight at 3 A. M,, and one can see. to read 
without artificial light until 9 P. M. Birkenhead, opposite 
the city, is connected with it by a fine tunnel under the Mersey. 
It is a suburb of the city and is a charming place, green and 
refreshing, full of delightful villas where the rich merchants 
of Liverpool seek repose and the enjoyments of domestic life 
after their busy hours in the city are over. 

From Liverpool, I passed through Birmingham. Its ap- 
proach looks something like Pittsburg. It is a well-built 
manufacturing town, of half a million inhabitants. On my 
way to London, I stopped a day at Warwick and visited the 
fine old castle so renowned in English history. I found it art 
intensely interesting place ; by some it is considered even 
more interesting than Windsor, It was the castle of the Karl 
of Warwick, so often mentioned in Shakespeare as the " King 
Maker, ' ' during the Wars of the Roses. To be a good traveler 
it is absolutely necessary to be a good walker. I walked for 



Si4 London's SlUMs.. 

miles over and around Warwick. The green fields, limpid 
streams, great old oaks and elms, splendid roads, fat flocks of 
sheep and thrifty husbandmen, gave to the place an air of great 
comfort and rural happiness. 

From Warwick, (pronounced Warrick) I went by rail to 
Stratford-on-Avon, to see the birthplace of Shakespeare. — 
After I visited the church, the cottage of, " Sweet Ann Hatha- 
way," and the house where the immortal poet was barn, the 
custodian requested me to register my name, residence, etc. 
He asked me where Thurlow was ? I told him it was near 
Philadelphia. He replied that Philadelphia was a very large 
place ; that Mr. Childs had told them that it contained over 
forty thousand square miles. I saw at once that the poor fel- 
low had confused the words, " Philadelphia " and " Pennsyl- 
vania." He evidently thought the State was called, " Phila- 
delphia " and the city. "Pennsylvania." On my return to 
Warwick, I was agreeably surprised to find Mr. Richard Young, 
of Delaware county, waiting at the station for the train to 
Leamington. Thus we are constantly delighted by meeting 
our countrymen all over the world. 

I can see no signs of poverty in this part of England. 
Everybody seems contented and comfortable, healthy and 
happy. The trip from Warwick to the old ruined castle of . 
Kennelworth is made by coach. The place is chiefly inter- 
esting as the scene of the Duke of lycicester's flirtations with 
Queen Elizabeth, of Sir Richard Varney 's villainy, and of poor 
Amy Robsart's sorrows, so graphically portrayed in Sir Walter 
Scott's novel of the same name. 

From Warwick, I went direct to I^ondon. It looked as 
familiar as the face of an old friend. After wandering for a 
day or two among its never-ceasing wonders, I concluded I 
would, for a few hours, explore its slums. I dressed myself in 
my ship clothing, flannel shirt and Scotch cap ; left all my 
valuables behind, and with only a few shillings in my pocket 
sallied forth like Don Quixotte in search of new adventures. 
I visited The Seven Dials, The District of St. Giles, and the 
Alsatia of Sir Walter Scott. I cannot put upon paper what I 
saw and heard. Suffice it to say that in my imperfect judg- 
ment hell must be a pleasant place in comparison with the slums 
-of London. I was so exhausted with my walk that I became 
very hungry and got a very good meal in one of the eating 
houses, or rather cellars, for nine pence. They would have 
taken me for a bloated bondholder if I had spent more. The 
weather in lyondon, while I was there, was too cool to stand 
or sit in the open air. I could take violent exercise without 
perspiration. 

From lyondon I visited Brighton on my way to New 



Rouen. 215- 



Haven. Brighton is to I^ondon what Cape May and Atlantic 
City are to Philadelphia. 

New Haven is a place of no consequence. Steamers, 
small but staunch, with very powerful machinery, run every 
five hours from New Haven to Dieppe, in France. It requires 
from two to ten hours to cross the Channel. The pas- 
sage was very rough. The side wheels were at times com- 
pletely submerged, and nearly all the passengers distressingly 
sick. It seems very strange to an American that a little trip 
on a boat, of four hours, should land him in a foreign country 
where the laws, manners, and language are, as if by magic, 
all changed. As no French is spokon at New Haven, so no 
English is spoken at Dieppe. 

I had, for years, felt a strong desire to visit the old city of 
Rouen, so celebrated in early English history as the scene of 
so many conflicts between our sturdy English ancestors and 
the French for the crown of France. The heart of King 
Richard Coeur de Lion is buried in the old cathedral. The 
identical spot where Jeanne D'Arc was burned is marked by 
a tower erected to her memory. I arrived there about 2 P. 
M., and after securing a resting place at a rickety old French 
hotel, I commenced my exploratians of the city. The city is 
built on the left side of the Seine, ascending. The new part 
is very much like all other continental cities, with boulevards, 
wide, well-paved streets, and handsome modern edifices. The 
old part is exceedingly quaint and intensely interesting, pre- 
senting nearly the same characteristics as Rofterdam, Lubeck, 
York, and other mediaeval towns. The streets are narrow, 
crooked and rough ; there are no sidewalks ; the houses are 
built of wood filled in with masonry, eachstory projecting two 
or three feet into the street, giving to the houses a top heavy 
appearance. In some of the narrowest streets, the occupants 
of the third story can shake hands out of their windows from 
opposite sides of the street. The city is rapidly losing its 
ancient appearance. The old houses are being torn down by 
hundreds annually, the streets are all being widened and re- 
paved. In a few years it will look like Paris. It has now a 
population of 150,000 and is rapidly increasing. It contains 
one of the finest Gothic cathedrals in the world. It will com- 
pare very favorably with the one at Strasbourg. The strong 
and formerly impregnable walls of the city have been removed ; 
only a few old gates remain. The place where Jeanne D'Arc 
was burned was near the northern wall. Her ashes were 
thrown into the Seine, which is about one thousand feet wide 
and sweeps with a gentle curve through the city. One of the 
bridges was built by Matilda, the daughter ot Henry I., of 
England. The tower of the cathedral is called, " La tour de 



2i6 Rouen to Paris. 

beurre," or the Butter Tower, from the fact that it was paid 
for by the sale of indulgences to eat butter in I^ent ; it is'two 
hundred and sixty feet high . 

The ground upon which the city is built rises from the 
river and terminates in a series of hills, several hundred feet 
high, from the summits of which the city can be seen with 
grand effect. At the foot of one of these hills is a most beauti- 
ful fountain representing a boat, approaching a cataract, saved 
from plunging over the waterfall by two rocks. It is one of 
the most striking designs for a fountain I have ever seen. Be- 
fore leaving the city I made the ascent of Mount Gargon, an 
abrupt hiJl several hundred feet high, from whose summit the 
whole city and twenty miles of surrounding country can be 
seen. It reminded me of Arthur's Seat, near Edinburgh, but 
not nearly as high. The view of the meandering Seine, 
from the summit of this hill, is charming. I counted 
thirteen little islands as I looked up the river ; they reminded 
me of a fleet of boats slowly moving down the stream. The 
top of the hill is higher than the highest steeple in the city 
and I can look down upon it just as a bird would view it in its 
flight over the place. There are some remains of ancient build- 
ings on this hill. I sat down on the green turf, sheltered from 
a brisk but bracing breeze, and, surrounded by thistles, daisies 
and buttercups, wrote these notes upon Rouen — The Roto- 
magus of the Romans. 



XLVII. 

Rouen to Paris — Economy in TraveIvIng — What can be 
Seen in Sixty Days— An Old Hotel with a History — 
Paris in Sunday Clothes — The Great Exposition of 
1889— Thp; Eiffel Tower a Mint — How Paris Looks 
Nine Hundred Feet Above Her — A Night Scene at 
the\Exposition— St. Germain — Gas Lights in Paris 

-' — BUTTES ChAUMONT. 

Paris, July, 1889. 
When I found myself with two months' spare time mj^ 
first thought was, how I should spend it so as to get the great- 
est return with the least expenditure of money. I had just 
finished the story of Phineas Fogg's journey around the world 
in eighty days, and I resolved to learn by experience how much 
I could see in sixty days. Even the time necessarily spent on 
the ship must not be lost. A little close observation, a little 
exercise of our perceptive faculties, listening with our ears and 



Cost oi'' Livi'NG. 21^ 

looking with our eyes, will secure much to amuse and some- 
thing to instruct us. I have already given a sketch of my 
journey as far as Rouen. I had purchased a ticket for the fast 
train to Paris ; the lazy waiter at my hotel forgot to secure a 
carriage for me in time to make the train ; we got to the sta^ 
tion just one minute and a half too late, so I had to wait an 
hour and, instead of getting into Paris at 3 P. M., I did not 
arrive till nearly 9. The journey was very tedious through 
an uninteresting country. We passed, however, several very 
pretty villages and country towns. 

To carry out my i.itention of economizing my money, I 
selected a thoroughly French hotel with not an American in 
it. It fronts on a narrow old street about fifteen feet wide, in 
the oldest part of Paris, but it has a courtyard and a history. 
During the French revolution, in 1793, they say Robespierre 
lived in this house, that the narrow street in front has been 
several times barricaded, and has been more than once red 
with human blood. My room is in the garret, here called the 
mansard. I cannot walk about my chamber with my hat on, 
but, in other respects, it is ver}^ comfortable and commodious* 
I have one of the softest beds 1 ever rested upon ; I get a good 
breakfast of hot coffee and milk with ham and eggs, or beef- 
steak and fried potatoes with bread ai}d butter ; a good mid- 
day meal, and a splendid table d'hote dinner at 6 o'clock, with 
service and wine included, for ten frai cs a day, (about two 
dollars.) I walk when I wish up to the Continental and Hotel 
Meurice, not three squares off, and hear the guests complain 
of the enormous cost of living in Paris. I can ride all over the 
city for a few cents— not over three cents a mile. I have been 
here seven days and have visited the Whole city, but not one; 
in a cab. T ride in the omnibuses and on the tramways, at 
three cents per trip, ot very often three miles. When my bill 
was presented this morning for washing and ironing for sixteen 
days, I was impressed with the practical knowledge of how 
much labor seventy cents would pay for, for that was the whole 
bill. At the Grand Hotel or Hotel Continental it would have 
been about two dollars. There are thousands of Americans 
now in Paris paying from five to ten dollars a day for their liv- 
ing expenses. I consider my knowledge of the French lan- 
guage worth to me, at least, three dollars a day. 

Paris certainly looks very beautiful. No one can stand at 
the fountain in the gardens of the Tuilleries and look up des 
Champs Elysees, as far as the Arch of Triumph, and up as for 
as the Louvre ; then walk to the Place de la Concorde, and 
look over to the Madeline on one side and to the Corps Legis- 
latif on the other, without feeling a peculiar sensation of min- 
gled pleasure and amazement. It is as beautiful as human tact 



21 S Tke EiFFEi.. Tower.. 



and skill can make it and without doabt the handsomest city- 
m the world. When I visited the place last year it had a. 
weary and somewhat dilapidated appearance, but all now looks 
clean, fresh and in the best of order, I could hardly believe 
it was the same old Paris, but when I remember how different 
a lady looks in a ball room from her appearance when you 
happen to catch her cleaning house,, the riddle was solved. 
Pans was house-cleaning last year ; this year she is receiving 
her guests in her best ball-room dress. 

The Exposition, of course, is the centre of attraction at 
present. It is very hard to give a proper description of this 
grand exhibition of art, industry and science. Suf&ce it to 
say, the like was never seen. Those who saw the Centennial 
Exhibition at Philadelphia,, in 1876, can form a pretty fair 
judgment of this one. In the display of machinery I think the 
Centennial Exhibition was superior to the present one ; but in 
all other respects it was far inferior to it. The buildings are 
of exquisite form and have the appearance of permanent struct- 
ures, light, airy afid substantial. Another advantage over our 
Centennial display is the easy access to the grounds. The 
buildings are all erected within the business part of the city on 
both banks of the oeine, and within a few yards of the Tomb 
of Napoleon. 

The Eiffel (pronounced A-fell) Tower is the eighth wonder 
of the world. The ground within the four corners of the 
tower, and covered by the four enormous arches, is about two 
acres. The entire weight of the tower is only about seven 
thousand tons. It is about nine hundred feet high,, or nearly 
four hundred feet higher than the highest monument in the 
world. An elevator conveys eighty persons every fifteen min- 
utes to the top, at a charge of one dollar each. From 9A.M. 
till night, there is a line of anxious citizens and strangers 
awaiting their turn to enter the lift. The tower is at present 
coining money at the rate of about two hundred dollars an 
hour. The cost of a ticket to enter the grounds and see the 
entire exhibition is only nine cents. Before 10 A. M. the price 
is double. To save the time and the annoyance of wasting two 
or three hours in the line of persons awaiting their turn to ascend 
the tower. I got up a little earlier and was at the gate of en- 
trance nearest the tower at 9 A. M. T went directly to the 
tower and was among the first to enter the elevator. In half 
an hour from my entrance within the grounds I was on the top 
of the tower. The morning was cool and windy, but the at- 
mosphere was very clear. With a good field-glass I could see 
for fifty miles around the city. Distance and size seemed 
annihilated. Paris looked like a map, and no larger than 
models of the city I have seen in museums. Indeed, it reminded 



The Ejcposition. Sr^ 

me very much of a model of the city I saw last year in the 
Copenhagen Exposition. Horses looked about the size of 
dogs. In looking directly down on persons walking about, the 
sight is very comical ; you see nothin^^ but a li'tle head and 
two enormous legs which appear to be making strides of about 
.five feet at each step. 

I made six or seven visits to the Exposition by day, de- 
voting about two hours to each visit. After an hour or two 
one becomes weary and the senses confused ; it does more harm 
than good to continue the visit after this feeling of weariness 
comes upon you. I made one visit at night and never saw a 
scene so much like my dreams of fairyland. I never saw such 
a lavish expenditure of gas or such a brilliant display of elec- 
tric light. The grand arches and the three stories of the tower 
were brilliantly illuminated, while the summit was crowned 
with an immense electric lamp that shot its white rays of light 
with concentrated power, equal to the rays of the sun, upon 
the fountains in the grounds and the colossal statuary on the 
domes of the buildings. The rose beds were surrounded with 
little electric lamps, and the bushes were decorated with them 
in the form of many colored fruits and flowers. The water 
from the Trocodero Fountain looked like molten silver, while 
some of the pools and basins seemed alive with many colored 
waters. In a word, the spectacle was like an enchanting theat- 
rical representation with a greater sense of reality. 

Having a few hours to spare I rested myself by making 
an excursion to the beautiful suburban town of St. Germain, 
about thirteen miles from Paris. It is a lovely spot, much 
frequented by the tired citizens of Paris as a resting place. 
The Eiffel Tower can be seen in a direct line over Mont Vele- 
rian rising far above the summit of the hill. 

A stranger entering Paris by night is apt to be dazzled by • 
its appearance and may be disappointed by the reality he sees 
the next day. To give an idea of the brilliancy of the city by 
night, it is only necessary to compare its lamp posts with those 
of Philadelphia. Along the Rue de Rivoli the lamps are only 
twelve feet apart, while des Champs-Elysees has a thousand 
lights to a hundred feet. 

Yesterday I took my last walk through Paris. I supp )se 
I walked not less than ten miles in different directions, ending 
my stroll on the Butte Chaumont, in the northwest corner o. 
the city. This was the last great work of Baron Haussmai 
under Napoleon III. It was upon this hill that Admiral Co- 
ligny was gibbeted. There is a very instructive museum of 
Natural History upon the summit and one of the finest views 
of Paris. It was from their entrenched position on this hill 
that the Communists, in 1871. threw petroleum shells into the 



220 Last Walk: f\ Pakts. 



city, and came very near destroying- it. Take it for all in all, 
Paris is a pleasant place, especially for an, American who is 
always hungry for excitement and like the Athenians in the 
days of Paul, constantly desiriag to see or hear some new thing.. 
I leave Paris to-day for Marseilles. 



XLVIII. 

Paris To Marseilles— A IvOng Walk in Paris— If Lonely, 
Look Up — Off for Lyons Old Fashioned Harvesting 
—Six Horses to a Plow — Battlefields— Study of 
French in a Railroad Car— Lyons from Mt. Fourviere 
The Silk of Lyons — A Blunder in French — On to 
Marseilles- Valance-Anecdote of Napoleon-Square 
MiivES OF Cobble Stones— First Sight of Marseilles-^ 
March — March. 

Marseilles, August, 1889. 
We are now at Marseilles, twenty-one hours by the fastest 
express train, south of Paris. It is a city of dust, sunshine, 
straw hats and linen trousers. Before leaving Paris I took a 
long, last walk of about ten miles through the by-streets, and 
away from the omnibus routes, to the northwestern part of the 
city. I again ascended " Butte Chaumont. " It is about two 
hundred feet high and affords from the plateau on its summit 
a charming view of Paris. On my way I passed the Northern 
Railway station and was surprised by its great dimensions. 
We think the Broad Street station at Philadelphia a great 
affair, and so it is, but Paris has at least five stations fully as 
large and some of them twice its size 

The Historical Museum on the top of Butte Chaumont is 
a very interesting place in which to refresh our recollection of 
French history since the Revolution of 1793. It contains a 
regular course of fine paintings illustrating every important 
event from that period up to the present time. Paris can not 
be properly seen either by carriage or omnibus ; to see it prop- 
erly you must do a great deal of good walking. I did not get 
to mj^ hotel till long after sunset. It was the only perfectly 
clear night I have seen since my arrival. When I came to the 
Place de la Concorde the stars were shining most brilliantly. 
It reminded me of home, they looked so much like the spark- 
ling eyes of old friends. They seemed to say, "If you are 
lonely look up." • 

We left for Lyons on the morning of July 30th. While 
ver}^ soft, luxuriant and beautiful, the landscape from Paris to 



Paris to Marseilles.. 221* 

Lyons is not more than ordinarily interesting. The course of 
the road is over a level but fertile country. As we approach. 
Ivyons the face of the country becomes more attractive. It is 
now the middle of harvest and the country presents some scenes 
of great rural beauty, such as old iashioned threshing floors,, 
with men and maidens handling the yellow sheaves and horses 
and oxen treading out the grain. There has been no rain in. 
the south of France for a long time, which gives the fields in 
some places a parched appearance. After the train strikes the 
rich valley of the Saone, which it follows through all its sinu- 
osity, the scenery becomes more interesting. It is no uncom- 
mon sight to see four and sometimes six strong horses to one 
great plow, reminding one of some of the beautful paintings of 
Rosa Bonheur to be seen in all the museums of Europe, engrav- 
ings of which are quite common ip our own country. The 
country roads are kept in perfect order ; they are as smooth as 
a floor and as white as chalk, and generally planted with poplar 
trees on both sides. Before reaching L,yons we pass some 
small rivers almost dry, but which have the appearance of hav- 
ing been recently full of water. The springtime is said to be 
the best to see to advantage the vegetation of the south of 
France. The fruits are now all ripe but the flowers mostly 
faded. We have delicious grapes, peaches, apricots, plums, 
melons and small fruits in abundance. 

Near the city of Iv3^ons we pass some places of historic 
interest, such as the battlefield of Montereau, where Napoleon 
said to his soldiers, when they begged him not to expose 
himself to the hail of bullets from the enemy's muskets, " My 
brave boys, the bullet that is to kill me is not yet moulded." 

At Blairey, we are near the source of the Seine and enter 
a more mountainous country. A railway compartment, in a 
long journey, becomes a very sociable place and affords a fine 
opportunity to study French. We made the acquaintance of a 
good natured Frenchman from St. Denis, going to I,yons on 
business. Much to the amusement of the other passengers we 
converted him into a school master and for full six hours we 
made him explain to us the proper pronunciation of every word 
connected with traveling by rail. He showed great patience 
and as politely as possible gave us many very valuable lessons 
in French. My son repaid him for his kindness by beating 
him most shamefully that night at billiards in I^yons As a 
consequence of his defeat he had to pay for the use of the table, 
etc., but as he was the challenger, he did not complain. There 
is nothing like traveling to give one cheek ; indeed, the neces- 
sity of making ourselves understood has completely overcome 
our natural modesty and proverbial diffidence, for which we 
are noted among all those who know us. I have made many 



222 Lyons-. 

very amusing blunders, and have very often been the subject oi* 
merriment, but I stick at it till I am understood. I always 
get even with the fellow that laughs at me by telling him that 
I speak better French than he does English, and then call him 
a fool or some other bad name, always in English, because I 
know he don't understand me and thinks I am complimenting 
him, at which he bows and I smile. 

We arrived at E5^ons about ii o'clock at night, having 
been twelve hours on the fastest express train. We stopped 
at a French hotel where not a word of English was spoken and, 
by the help of the lesson we had received on the cars, we had 
not the slightest trouble in understanding as well as being 
understood. The only bad mistake we made was in asking 
the valet why he had not mended our chamber. The word 
we used, in one sense meant X.o fix up ; but in the way we used 
it, it meant to ?ra<?7^^ something broken. The poor fellow look- 
ed all over the chamber and then informed us that it was not 
brokcji. After mutual explanation he had a hearty laugh at 
our expense. Our entire expense of living at this hotel did 
not exceed three dollars a day. At the hotels most frequented 
by English and Americans here the cost is double that sum. 

The people here complain of the warmth of the weather, 
but to us it is really charming. At noon it is rather hot, but . 
in the afternoon and morning it is perfectly delightful ; we can 
take any amount of exercise in our winter clothing without 
much perspiration, and can sleep at night under a blanket. 

Eyons is the second city in France, and only surpassed by 
Paris in splendor and population. Its natural situation and 
the surrounding country are much more beautiful than those 
of Paris. The rivers Saone and Rhone join here and both flow 
through the city ; the one is about six hundred feet and the 
other about nine hundred feet wide, both splendidly walled with 
fine large cut stone, with steps running down to the water's 
edge and parapets about four feet high, over which the prom- 
enading citizen can lean and look at the rapid flow of the beau- 
tiful waters from the wide, well-paved and shaded avenues 
along either side of the rivers. The city is surrounded by 
hills several hundred feet high. The hill west of the Saone 
rises from the embankment some three hundred feet and is sur- 
mounted by a fine monumental church, from the facade of 
which the whole city and countr}^ lyii^ig eastward can be seen 
for twenty miles. The city lies at the foot of the hill and can 
be studied from it at great advantage. Every street and all 
the buildings of any importance can be distinctly seen. The 
name of the hill is Mt. Fourviere. It is ascended by a rail- 
way at an angle of about sixty degrees for two cents. The 
hill contains ancient Roman ruins. It is beautifully shaded 



Lyons. 225 

and laid out in walks and steps, and is ornamented with statu- 
ar}^ mostly of a religious character. 

One of the principal industries of Lyons is the manufac- 
ture of silk goods. It is said the average product of its looms 
is 120,000 yards a year. There was a city here five hundred 
years before the christian era. The Emperor Augustus Caesar 
was very fond of Lyons and spent much of his time here. 
Carracalla and Marcus Aurelius were both born here. The 
Saracens captured and held the place for some time, but 
were finally driven out by Charles Martel. It was at the siege 
of Lyons that the young soldier. Bonaparte, afterwards the 
Emperor Napoleon, first showed his great military genius. The 
ancient character of the city is, like most other old towns, fast 
disappearing before our modern ideas of what a city should be. 
They are now erecting some of the grandest stores, magazines 
and dwellings to be seen in any city of Europe. We noticed 
a store being built of stone dressed on all sides so as to make 
the inside finish equal to the outside one, and the joints so 
closely fitting as to require very little mortar. 

We are highly pleased with our two days' stop at Lyons, 
We have ridden and walked all over it and leave it with the 
satisfaction of knowing that we have seen it all. 

The time by rail, on the fastest trains, between Lyons and 
Marseilles is eight hours. The road follows the winding course 
of the beautiful Rhone whose picturesque scenery is justly 
celebrated all over the world. The scenery varies from the 
soft luxuriant verdure of the valley to the rugged and rock- 
bound mountains that skirt its edge. We pass several ancient 
ruins and some romantic looking old castles. Our general, 
course is due south and as we advance we can feel the change 
in temperatiire. The country looks very thirsty as if it had 
not had a good drink of refreshing rain for a long time. The 
leaves of the olive groves are white with dust, but still the 
country has a ripe and mellow look. The harvesting near 
Marseilles is all done. The peasants are now gathering their 
summer fruits. As we pass through Valance we are reminded 
that it was here that Bonaparte, when a little boy, was a 
scholar at the military school still kept here. It was at Val- 
ance that he used to amuse himself by building earthworks in 
the sand, and form his contending armies with small gravel 
stones, indicating his officers by larger stones, and himself as 
General-in-Chief by a stone as big as his fist. One of his school- 
mates looked over the wall and made fun of the young soldier, 
whereupon he struck him in the head with his " General-in- 
Chief" and left a permanent scar upon the mocker's forehead. 
Many years afterwards, when Bonaparte the soldier had be- 
come Napoleon the Emperor, his old schoolmate sent in his 



224 MA'RSEILrES-. 



name and asked for an audience. Napoleon did not remem- 
ber him till he pointed to the scar on his forehead, which at 
once brought the long-forgotten occurrence to his mind much 
to his amusement and to the great profit of his wDunded old 
schoolmate. 

We also pass through the old town of Avignon, near which 
Petrarch lived. As we draw nearer Marseilles the country 
becomes more barren. Our road passes ovef a desert plain fof 
many miles, perfectly level and covered with cobble stones ; 
I should say this plain contains cobble stones enough to pave 
all the streets of the world. 

The air soon becomes more cool and bracing. In a short 
time we quit the broad and beautiful bay of the Rhone to 
plunge into a succession of tunnels, one of which requires five 
-minutes to get through it ; after which we get our first sight 
of the Mediterranean Sea and Gulf of ly^^ons, with the city of 
Marseilles nestling like a coy maiden at the feet of the sur- 
rounding hills. 

We have spent three days in the city and have seen it all, 
I must postpone m}^ effort to describe it until my next letter, 
as I fear this one is becoming tedious. We have taken our 
berths and embark this morning for Barcellona in Spain, from 
whence, if possible, we intend to go to Africa. I^ike the wand- 
ering Jew we are not permitted to rest long at any one place 
no matter how pleasant it may be. We must obey the injunc- 
tion with which we started — March — March. 



XLIX 

France to Spain— Marseilles — Cafe's and Politicians 
— One of Plato's Jokes — Notre Dame de le Garde — 
The Court — Fountains, Baths and Fleas— To Bar- 
celona BY Sea — A Beautiful Spamish City^ Mosquitoes 
— Bad Place for Tee-Tot alers — Fruits, Flowers and 
Wines — History — Paradisaical Villas — Costumes of 
Spain Disappearing — Dulcena and Duenno — Scanty 
Bathing Dresses. 

Zaragoza, Spain, August, 1889. 
The first striking characteristic of Marseilles is its admir- 
able situation. The next thing that strikes one's attention is 
the great activity and apparent excitement of the people. 
The city has been built, like Rome, on a succession of hills. 
There are no level streets in Marseilles ; we are either going 
up or down hill all the time. I sometime think this is true in 



Marseilles. 225 

life, and that we never walk on the same level, but either ad- 
vauce upward or descend downward, morally as well as intel- 
lectually. The city is fast encroaching on the higher hills 
which now surround it in a semi-circle, from the lower to the 
upper bay. It is protected seaward by rocky islands and a 
strong stone breakwater. The old Chateau dTf raises its bold 
head just beyond the breakwater It has become renowned 
as the scene of Dumas' novel " The Count of Monte Cristo." 
We can plainly see the parapet from which the Count was 
thrown, as a corpse, into the sea, and can almost hear him ex- 
claim, as he rises to the surface. " Now the world is mine." 

Marseilles has a population of 380,000 and is now even 
more cosmopolitan than Paris. The harbor is full oi ships 
from every country and the streets are thronged by strangers 
from every clime. We see all sorts of costumes and hear the 
jargon of every tongue and dialect. 

The city, in summer, presents a very dirty and disagree- 
able appearance. All the fine old trees ; all the shrubs and 
flowers, and even the buildings are covered with a fine, chalky 
dust, very annoying and disagreeable. But little green is to 
be seen, either in the city or on the rock bound coast. Even 
the high hills, outside of the city limits, are bleak and of a 
whitish gray color. 

Marseilles, like all other old towns, is in a state of rapid 
transition to a new and well arranged city. Paris has un- 
doubtedly revolutionized the world in this respect. Even 
Jerusalem and Damascus must soon lose their ancient charac- 
ter and become, like Bucharest, Buda-Pesth and Vienna, beau- 
tiful new cities. The cafes of Marseilles are admitted to be 
superior to any in Paris. They are crowded nightly by ex- 
cited citizens and strangers, who seem intent on hearing or 
telling the news. But little business is done in the middle of 
the da}'-. From ten to four the banks and public offices are 
closed. The streets and cafes begin to fill about 7 P. M. and 
remain crowded until after midnight. The city seems to be a 
paradise for politicians. As far as I am able to judge, the 
great majority of the people are Boulangists, and very radical 
in their political views. They have torch-light processions, 
drums, banners and bands of music, bulletins and speech-mak- 
ing in the streets. It reminded me very much of Philadelphia, 
opposite the Union League, on the night of a Presidential elec- 
tion. From my limited knowledge of politics in my own coun- 
try I have about concluded that the politician is the same ani- 
mal the world over. That is to say, a great patriot out of 
power, and a great rascal in office. It wouldhardly be proper 
to leave Marseilles without a glance, at least, at its history. 
It was a city of importance twenty-five hundred years ago. 



226 Marseilles. 

The historians of the place claim that it was founded hj the 
Phoenicians, and that it owes its prosperity to its splendid har- 
bor. It was spoken of by Plato as containing the most patriotic 
men and virtuous women of any city in the world. He says 
the manners of the people in his time were irreproachable. He 
recommends it as a sample of social virtue. From what I have 
seen ot it, it must have retrograded very much since the days 
of Plato, or the old philosopher was joking. 

In the struggle between Csesar and Pompey,. it took sides 
with the latter. As a consequence, Ctesar laid seige to the 
eitj'- and captured it, broke down its walls and destroyed its 
navy and all its implements of war. 

Before leaving the city we ascended the hill, four hundred 
teet high, on the south. The view from the summit of this 
hill is very fine. All Marseilles can be seen below us. There 
is a fine modern church upon its summit, the interior of which 
is completely lined with fine many-colored and well-polisbed 
marbles. On the opposite side of the city is a very beautiful 
fountain, said to be one of the largest in the world, composed 
of columns, facades, grotesque rock work, great stone anirnals 
and a beautiful waterfall. I have seen no fountain, except one- 
in Rome, m^re elaborately designed or better executed. It is 
situated on a hill, at the union of several streets and has fine,, 
large stone steps leading around the fountain to the Zoological 
Gardens. The gardens are all that nature and art can make 
them. 

As we passed the splendid Court House we concluded tO' 
take a peep at the administration of justice. The Supreme 
Courtfor the Province was in session, consisting of three judges, 
in gowns, but without wigs, and a large number of lawyers. 
They were arguing some question of encroachment. One of 
the lawyers reminded me of ex-Judge Broomall, while his op- 
ponent was a nervous little fellow, not unlike counsellor Rob- 
inson. We thought, from the smiles of the judges and the 
shrugs of the old lawyer's shoulders and the snapping of his 
fingers, that the old counsellor was getting the best of the 
contest, but as I could not understand the technical terms em- 
ployed, perhaps I was mistaken. The day before we left we 
jumped into a tramway car and rode out to the public baths on 
the seashore, just east of the city limits. It reminded me very 
much of a sea -side bathing place in our own country. The 
little bath houses are just the same. As there is but little tide 
in the Mediterranean there is consequently but little beach. 
The surf, however, is good and we enjoyed very much our first 
swim in this renowned sea. 

The nights at Marseilles are delightfully cool and pleasant, 
and very promotive of good, refreshing sleep. In this respect 



BAR'CfiLONX. S27 



it is like Cape Ma}^ when the sea breeze prevails. The only 
drawback to our pleasure was a flea hunt the last night we 
spent in the city. I was awakened about midnight by a yell and 
an urgent request to get up and strike a light, I supposed that 
a burglar had entered our room. I sprang upon the floor, stum-- 
bled over a chair, nearly knocked over the table, and finally. 
struck a match. Sam had caught a flea ; but, when lie raised 
his hand to show me his captive, as usual he was not there 

The next day, at 10 A. M., we took ship for Barcelona. 
The voyage was very pleasant. About 4 A, M. the foUowirig 
.morning we had our first sight of the hilly coast of Spain. 
About 8 A. M. we landed. Our hotel was upon the main 
street of the city, called "The Rambla." It is about one 
hundred and eighty feet wide, and runs from the harbor straight 
through the city. We were surprised to find such a well-built, 
well-paved and beautifully-decorated city. lyike Marseilles, 
the old city has gone, and one modeled after Paris has taken 
its place. Like Marseillss, also, is is surrounded with hills on 
the land side. Just at the left, as we enter the port, is a hill 
over seven hundred feet high, on the summit of which is a 
strong fort, whose guns cover the harbor and every inch of the 
city. Hotel bills in Spain are low, but railroad fares are very 
high. It costs about a dollar an hour to ride first-class on roads 
where there is no opposition ; second-class in Spain is worse 
than third-class in an English railway coach. Barcelona is 
the second city m Spain for size and beauty. It has a popula- 
tion of 430,000, and is rapidly incrf-asing. The old Spanish 
customs and costumes have been almost entirely driven 
from the city Paris is now the model for all new cities, and 
the dress of England is fast driving out of existence all the old 
fantastic costumes of the world: 

The days, at noon, are very warm but the evenings and 
nights are pleasant. I found my first mosquito at Barce- 
lona. I resolved to leave the place at once, for if there is any 
one thing in this world I hate more than Sata i it is a mosqui o-. 
The city has a clean, fresh and very pleasant general appear- 
ance. It has a park not ten minutes' walk from the centre of 
the city, which is one of the most beautiful I have ever seen-. 

Spain is noted for its fruits and flowers. The flower mar^ 
ket of Barcelona is a very attractive place. The fruit market 
is the finest in the world, the large tables groan under the 
weight of most delicious fruit. Pomegranates, citron, figs, 
green-gages, apricots, nectarines, peaches, pears, green almonds^ 
all kinds of small fruits and great clusters of grapes. While 
feasting upon a fine bunch of white muscats and raalagas I 
thought with pity of my friend Senator Cooper, for he has 
assured m^ that a bunch of them will intoxicate him. If he were 



228 Barcelona, 

here he vvomld be inebriated all the time. Grapes are not only 
abandant but wine flows like water. It is the common drink 
of both rich and poor, yet I have not seen a drunken man on 
the continent. How is this to be harmonized with our Ameri- 
can idea of total abstinence and the proposed Constitutional 
Amendment. 

Barcelona has a fountain almost as beautiful as the one at 
Marseilles. To get an idea of the ancient city, as compared 
with the modern one', it is necessary to walk into the little 
crooked and filthy streets, which are now mostly the habita- 
tion of the poor, but which were once the dwelling places of 
the first citizens of the city. 

The city is said to have been founded by Hamilcar, the 
father of Hannibal, 237 B. C. The Moors captured it in 713, 
A. D., but were driven out about ninety years afterwards by 
Charlemagne. They held the city long enough, however, to 
give to all succeeding ages their dark and swarthy complexion,, 
and to fill the language of Spain with their peculiar dialect. 

The temperature of Barcelona is never above 87 and sel- 
dom below 28° Fahr. There are not, on an average of. one 
hundred years, over seventy rainy days in a year. 

The villas of the rich are said to be little paradises af rural 
beauty, full of orange groves and arbors, vines, fruits and fiow-- 
ers. Washington Irving has so described them. They are 
undoubtedly most charming retreats. 

Here and there we see an original Spanish costume, so- 
familiar to the readers of Gil Bias and Don Quixote, with 
velvet breeches, many-colored ribbons, broad sombreros, white 
stockings and sandals, a broad, bright-colored silk sash around 
the waist and short jacket covered with lace ar embroidery.. 
Occasionally, only, we meet a Spanish girl with her duenno.. 
peeping over her fan and pretending to hide her pretty face 
with the black lace with which her head is covered. These 
sights are now rare. The great majority of men and 
women look just as they do in Paris,, I^^ondon and New York.. 
We were told that if we want to see Spanish life and costumes, 
we must visit Zaragoza. So we spent the balance of our time 
in taking a ride around the omnibus routes and tramways of 
the town, and wound up our visit by a steamboat ride,, for twa 
cents, to the baths on the seashore. The bathing robes are 
very scanty, but enough, as the men and women do not bathe 
together as with us. The bathing place for the ladies is com- 
pletely covered. The bathing grounds are only for the pleasure 
of a plunge into the sea, and not a place of fashionable display. 

We arrived at Zaragoza last night about 9 o'clock /after a 
long but interesting, though very warm,, ride by rail of twelve 
hours. 



Zaragoza to Madrid. T2g 



A-. 

Zaragoza to Madrid— Size of Spain — ^Monserrat— Dried 
UP Rivp:rs— Sunburned Fields^Spain a Great Grave- 
yard — Zaragoza-Moorish Manners — IvErida — Tke 
Maid of Zaragoza — The Virgin Mary General-in- 
Chief — Steam vs. Romance— A Very Oi^d Town — Ab- 
sence OF Trees— O' Shea's Guide of Spain — Agreeably 
Disappointed in Madrid — A Splendid City in an Arid 
Plain — Art Gallery — The Kscukial a Humbug. 

Madrid, Spain, August, 18^9. 

Spain is quite a large country. It contains 193,000 square 
miles ; it is over four times as large as Pennsylvania. It lies 
between thirty -six and forty-seven north latitude. Every inch 
of its territory that will raise a blade of grass or stalk of corn 
is cultivated and, where neither will grow, vines are planted. 
In Spring the land is well watered by the melting snow 
upon its mountains ; in Summer all the table land is watered 
-by artificial irrigation, Madrid is located upon the great pla- 
teau extending the whole length of the Pyrenees. Its altitude 
is two thousand three hundred and eighty-four feet above the 
level of the sea. In Winter it is said to be cold and in 
Summer very warm. It has a population of over half a million 
and is rapidly increasing. We left Barcelona on the 6th and 
arrived at Zaragoza in twelve hours. For the first four hours 
we ascended, by a very steep grade and winding road,, the 
mountains on the north of Barcelona, Some of the scenery 
was very fine. We completely circled Monserrat, or the Jag- 
ged Mountain ; it is eight leagues in circumference. Its rocky- 
pinnacles rise in perpendicular spires three thousand eight 
hundred feet. There is a monastery there, the most celebrat- 
ed in Spain, It once had an annual pilgrimage of 60,000, but 
as true piety is becoming more enlightened, its shrine is more 
neglected. It certainly inspires a feeling of indescribable ad- 
miration mingled with reverential awe, to gaze upon its impos- 
ing peaks of barren rock as they seem;, like gigantic cathedral 
spires, to pierce the realms of heaven. As we ascend to the 
plateau, we see the dried up channels of what, in early 
Summer, were rapid mountain streams. For hundreds of miles 
along the plateau the ground seems burnt up and all vegeta- 
tion destroyed by excessive heat and the absence of rain. Here 
and there we see empty sheepfolds and little sunburnt villages^ 



230 ZaragoZa. 

reminding one more of Africa than Europe. The houses are but 
one story high, (except in the towns), with flat tile roofs and are 
built of baked earth in great square blocks, covered with white- 
wash. Why this building material has been chosen in a land 
abounding with fine red sandstone formed by Nature into 
almost square blocks,! cannot conceive. I imagine it is a 
relic of Moorish dominion, as I am told the houses of the hus- 
bandmen in this part of the country are very much like those 
in Morocco. There are but few relics of antiquity to be found 
in Spain. Here and there we see the ruins of an old castle, 
generally on the highest hill and without any known history. 
In fact, the whole of this part of Spain reminds one of an enor- 
mous graveyard devoted to primitive agriculture. In some of 
the fertile spots, where irrigation can be successfully used, 
they look like cemeteries converted into gardens. 

Zaragoza is situated upon the river Ebro. In the Spring 
the river is deep and rapid ; now it is nearly dry. Its valley, 
however, is very fertile and cultivated to its fullest extent. 
One crop is scarcely gathered before another is planted. Where 
the fields cannot be watered by the little races running in every 
direction from the river, donkeys are employed to turn bucket 
wheels that raise the water to the desired height to flow into 
. the little cultivated patches. Moorish dresses are quite com- 
mon among the poorer classes in the little villages along the 
line of the road. Men with bright red handkerchiefs tied in 
the form of turbans around their heads, and women with their 
faces half covered, are an evident relic of the Moorish conquest 
and of the harem. About half way between Barcelona and, 
Zaragoza we passed through the city of lycrida, a town of 
about twenty-five thousand inhabitants. It is only noticeable 
as the place where a celebrated Council was held A. D. 546. 
It has been so often sacked by the Goths, Moors and French 
that nothing of interest, save the ground on which it stands, is 
left. From what we had been told we expected too much of 
Zaragoza ; we fancied a city of ancient Spanish manners, cos- 
tumes and buildings ; we found it a beautiful modern town of 
ninety thousand inhabitants, with great difiiculty distinguish- 
able from Paris or New York. It has broad avenues with 
fine old trees on each side to shade the promenades. But 
little of the old town remains. When we found the ancient 
part, however, it was very interesting in its narrow winding 
streets and great houses almost meeting at the richly carved 
and projecting cornices. 

The city is celebrated for the remarkably stubborn resistance 
it made to the siege of Napoleon's army in 1808. Byron has 
immortalized the Maid of Zaragoza, who fought by her lover's 



Zaragoza:.. 23 r 

side and when he was killed cheered on the soldiers and 
fought until the city fell. 

"Ye who shall marvel when you hear her tale, 

Oh ! had you known her in her softer hour, 

Mark'd her black eye that mocks her coal-black veil ; 

Heard her light, lively tones in lady's bower; 

sSeen her long locks that foil the painter's power ; 

Her fairj' form with more than female grace; 

Scarce would you deem that Zaragoza's tower 

Beheld her smile in danger's Gorgon face. 

Thin the clofced ranks, and lead in glory's fearful chase/' 

The only way to get a correct idea of what the city was 
at the time of the seige, is by walking through the streets of 
the old parts, or at least what remains of them. All the worst 
part of the city has been torn down and rebuilt ; the remains of 
the old city now are what formerly was its most aristocratic quar- 
ter. Many of the streets are too narrow for two carriages to pass, 
and have no sidewalks. The balls from cannon, because of the 
tortuous and zigzag streets, could not fly over one hundred 
feet without striking the heavy walls of the houses ; the conse- 
quence was that after ten thousand French soldiers had gained 
an entrance over the broken walls they found every house a 
new fort. The second siege was conducted by four of Napo- 
leon's best generals, well provided with all the necessary im- 
plements of war. The walls of the town were but ten feet high 
and three feet thick ; the people were poorly armed and had 
but little means of resistance ; yet it required the slaughter of 
fifteen thousand of the inhabitants and a siege of sixtv-two 
days to reduce the city to capitulation, and not until famine 
and pestilence had come to the assistance of the besiegers. 

The siege of Zaragoza was remarkable in other respects. 
The citizens were not drilled soldiers ; they refused to have 
any General in -chief ; in a fit of religious and pathetic frenzy 
the town authorities elected the Virgin Mary as their General- 
in-chief. Napoleon smiled when his generals compelled her 
to surrender, but it is a remarkable historical fact that the 
siege of Zaragoza was the beginning of the end of the great 
chieftain. From Zaragoza to Waterloo was one continual suc- 
cession of disasters and final fall . The heroic resistance of a little 
unarmed town taught the rest of Spain a lesson of patriotism ; 
Wellington came to their assistance and the French were driven 
out of Spain. So the Virgin conquered in the end. The event 
reminds me of a remark of Victor Hugo. He says : "It was 
not Wellington ; it was not Blucher ; it was not the allies that 
won the battle of Waterloo ; it was God. The time had come 
when God or Napoleon must surrender and Napoleon fell." 

There is, as before remarked, but little in Zaragoza to 
remind the traveler that he is in Spain. Now and then we 
see a little maiden accompanied by her duenna ; here and there 



232 Madrid. 



we see scenes like Rebecca and Rachel with their Orienta 
water jugs, either on their shoulders or being filled at some of 
the fountains. Occasionally we meet a country beau with a 
new sombrero and quaint old Spanish dress ; but these are ex- 
ceptions, not the rule. The Spanish Muleteer no longer cheers 
his poor beast by his songs ; he uses a club or a whip and 
swears like a civilized horse jockey. I have come to the con- 
clusion that Solomon was ri^ht, and that there is nothing new 
under the sun. What now is, has been ; and what has been, 
now is ; humanity is the same all the world over. In a word, 
it is only distance that lends enchantment to the view, and as 
the telegraph and steam engine have annihilated space, the 
enchantment of former times has been broken. 

The monks of Zaragoza insist upon it that the city was 
founded by Tubal, the nephew of Noah, in the year 242, after 
the deluge. 

The old stone bridge ; the two grand old cathedrals ; the 
ruined convent, where the last struggle was made in the siege, 
and the old houses in the ancient part of the city, are about 
all the sights now to be seen. It is, however, a pleasant place 
to spend a day, and to break the long iourney from Barcelona 
to Madrid. We left the city on the 8th at 7 A. M., and did 
not arrive at Madrid until nearly 10 P. M. The ride was over 
the same unbroken plateau, very dusty and dry, with here and 
there a green valley or mountain range in view. Scarcely a 
tree is to be seen and not a soul at work in the parched fields. 

Before leaving Paris we went to an English book-seller to 
buy a guide for travelers in Spain. He had several for a shil- 
ling each, but he assured us they were not reJiable. He ad- 
vised us to pay four dollars for a book written by Mr. O'Shea, 
who had traveled all over Spain, and whose book was perfectly 
reliable. Seduced by his praises of Mr. O' Shea's "Guide to 
Spain " I bought the book, but was soon convinced that the 
author had never seen Spain. He describes Madrid as a city 
ot gingerbread architecture ; and that it was a furnace hotter than 
Nebuchadnezzar's, in the summer, and as cold as the North 
Pole in winter ; that we would be in danger of sunstroke out 
of the shade and of pneumonia in it ; that from 11 A. M. till 
4 P. M. not a soul ventured in the streets, during summer. 
Instead of a city such as he describes, we found a second Paris. 
A splendid, well-built, artistically laid out and beautifully de- 
corated city, only surpassed by Vienna, Berlin and Paris. Its 
architecture is tasty and substantial. The streets are very 
broad — one of them over five hundred feet in width. The 
houses are very high, with balconies at each window, where 
the inmates sit and chat or sup in the shade of a summer even- 
ing. The weather is delightful, we have not seen a cloud 



Madrid. 



•since we have been in Spain. At noon it is about as warm as 
in Philadelphia at this season, but the nights are delightfully 
cool, with not a mosquito to torment you or a breath of hot air to 
stifle 3'ou. I never enjoj'ed sweeter sleep than in this much 
abused cit}^ We wear our heavy spring clothing. T have 
only seen one linen suit in the city and that was worn by a 
peasant. The cit}' is shaded by trees and h s several beauti- 
ful parks and gardens. When we remember that all the trees, 
as well as flowers and grass in the citj^ and suburbs, must be 
kept alive in the dry season in summer by irrigation, we can 
appreciate the beautiful green grass and flowers and form a 
comparative judgment of the heavy expense necessary to sup- 
port such a splendid city in such an arid plain. The city pos- 
sesses one of the finest collections of paintings by the old mas- 
ters to be found in the world. By some it is considered su- 
perior to that of Dresden or the L,ouvre. I was particularly 
struck with a life-sized painting representing the miraculous 
conversion of Paul. While gazing upon and trying to stud}' 
the picture, the thought came into my mind that Paul was 
either an impostor or Christ was divine. The subsequent life 
of the old apostle, his enthusiastic ministry and triumphant 
death ought to convince any fair mind that Paul was honest 
and terribly in earnest. 

We lost an entire daj? in going and returning, nearly 
seventy miles, to see the world-renowned Escurial. O'Shea 
describes it as the eighth wonder of the world and advises us 
to take our baggage and spend two or three daj'S among its 
massive wonders. We left our comfortable beds at 5 A. M., 
took a light breakfast of hot milk, coffee and bread, and em- 
barked on the first train. In about two hours, over an unin- 
teresting road, we reached our place of destination. The sta- 
tion is about a mile from the palace. A short stage ride up an 
ascending grade brought us to what looked like an immense 
poor house or state prison. It was O'Shea's eighth wonder of 
the world, the Escurial. There is nothing in it worth walk- 
ing a mile to see. It is an enormous pile of roughly cut gran- 
ite blocks, built into square walls and windows, upon aground 
plan formed like a gridiron turned upside down, the several 
towers representing the upturned feet of the broiling apparatus. 
The dome and a few of the arches are fair specimens of masonic 
skill, but I venture to say that there are at least a dozen stone 
masons in Delaware county who, for the same amount of money, 
could erect a more beautiful building. The whole thing was 
the creation of a half craz}^ old king. Philip II chose St. Law- 
rence as his patron. He had seen many churches in the form 
of a cross. He formed the comical idea of building one shaped 
like a gridiron, commemorative of the martyrdom of his patron 



234 Madrid to Skville. 

saint who, we are told, was broiled alive on that instrument, 
x'lfter having seen the cathedrals at Milan, Cologne, Antwerp, 
Constantinople and Rome, to call this thing one of the wonders 
of the world is to descend ver}^ rapidly from the sublime to 
the ridiculous. 

We have secured our tickets for two of the best seats in 
the Amphitheatre and intend to witness the grand royal bull 
fight, to-morrow afternoon, after which we will bid farewell to 
Madrid and visit Seville and Cadiz. In my next letter I will 
endeavor to describe the bull fight. 



LI. 

Madrid to Seville — A Bull Fight in the Amphitheatre 
— Exciting Sport — Peculiar Desire to see Another 
Fight — On to Seville— Drouth in Spain — A Beauti- 
ful City by Night — A Dull Place by Day — Yum Yum 
—The Alcazar — History — -Four Hundred Thousand 
Depopulation in One Year. 

Seville, Spain, August, 1889. . 
Before leaving Madrid for this place, we went to see a bull 
fight in the Amphitheatre, a very large three-story building, 
copied after the Coliseum at Rome, but not so large. It, 
however, is large enough to seat seventeen thousand five hun- 
dred spectators. The arena is as large as a small race course, 
being not less th*an one hundred yards in diameter, perfectly 
circular and covered with fine clean gravel. Only the two out- 
side tiers are under roof. The main circle is exposed to the 
weather and consists of twenty-five rows of granite seats, each 
tier rising fully one foot above the other so that there is no 
difficulty in seeing over the heads of those in front. The 
sheltered seats are covered with leather and are comfortable. 
The Royal box is on the west or shady side ; directly opposite 
is the stand for the musicians, gaily decorated with flags and 
streamers. At the right of the music stand is a large gate 
through which the fighters enter ; on the left is the gate through 
which the bull comes. There were about ten thousand men, 
women and children present. The fight began about 5 P. M. 
To understand a bull fight it will be necessary to first clas- 
sify the fighters. The first in rank is the swordsman. (I will 
avoid the Spanish names). The swordsman is armed with a 
Toledo blade about the size of an ordinary straight sword. 
This he holds in his right hand ; in his left he carries a bright 
red flag. He is gaudily dressed, wears no mail, is generally 



A Bull Fight. 235 

very handsome and always a great favorite of the ladies. It 
is his duty, when the others have displayed their several parts, 
to enter the arena, doff his hat to the occupants of the Royal 
box and ask permission to kill the foe which he promises to 
do to the honor of his patron and glory of Madrid. He is re- 
quired to face the irtad bull directly in front and give him his 
death thrust over or between his horns. Ihe point of the 
sword must enter the nape of the neck just between the two 
shoulder blades, and the instrument must be thrust downward 
into the chest to the hilt. If the bull is killed in any other 
way he (the bull) can claim a loul and wins the fight, at which 
the audience hiss the fighter and cheer the dead hull. He has 
not been killed according to the honor of Madrid or the glory 
of Spain. This paradox reminds one of Shakespeare's Mur- 
derers of the Duke of Clarence. ' ' We must not kill him while 
he sleeps, or, when he wakes, he'll say 'twas foully done." 

The next rank among the fighters is the men with barbed 
sticks gaily wound with differenc colored ribbons. They fight 
without flags. Their sticks are about tnree feet long. Tney 
cannot possibly kill the bull but are expected to torment him 
by planting their barbed sticks in his skin. They too must 
face the foe and plant their barbs in his shoulders and back 
directly over his horns. They sometimes succeed in putting 
six or seven of these barbs into the poor animal and leave them 
there to dangle and lacerate him every step he takes. These 
fighters are required, for their own safety, to be very fleet of 
foot and agile in all their actions. 

The third rank is the lancers. They were formerly the 
first rank and fought the bull fairly in the ring on horseback, 
armed with nothing but a strong lance. Now they are a low 
set of wine drinkers, who will take the risk of being killed or 
hurt for the pay they get. The horses now used are, as a rule, 
old, crippled or diseased animals intended to be killed. The 
lancer of modern times wears iron mail under his gaudy dress, 
protecting his body as high as his chest. If he did not he 
would certainly be killed, as his horse falls on him, and the 
bull often attacks him with great fury. 

The fourth class is the men with red cloaks or mantles. 
They are required to madden the bull by flaunting their red 
mantles in his face and escaping as best they can, while the 
bull charges and spends his fury on the rag which he tosses 
about in a great rage. 

A great flourish of trumpets announced the opening scene. 
The gate for the fighters was thrown open, and at the same 
time two richly dressed horsemen on splendid steeds entered 
the arena from the gate opposite the Royal box. The object 
of the two finely dressed horsemen on gallant steeds is to 



2;^6 Exciting Sport, 



detract attention from the poor Rosinantes ridden by the 
lancers. A grand procession to martial music now marched 
around the ring. The poor old hacks had been dosed up with, 
stimulants and, with their rich caparisons, could scarcely be 
distinguished from the most fiery young stallions. As the pro- 
cession passed the Royal box they took-ofif their hats and 
bowed. Whether any of the Royal blood of Spain occupied 
the box or not I cannot say, as our seats wei'e on the same tier 
but at the right of the box, into which we could not see. The 
grand procession had scarcely ended, when the great gate at 
the lett of the music stand was thrown open and in rushed a 
splendid four-year-old bull, with head down and tail up. He 
was very much excited and had evidently been tormented by 
his torturers. before he was let into the ring. He. meant busi- 
ness from the start. The men with mantles flaunted their 
red rags before his eyes. He made a furious charge upon them : 
some jumped aside and left him to toss the cloaks in the air : 
others ran for their lives, dropping their mantles and only es- 
caping by leaping a six-feet-high strong plank barrier. One 
of them had scarcely got over before the bull was half over be- 
hind him. The horsemen then presented themselves with their 
lances. This was really an exciting scene. Oneof the lancers 
kept the bull at bay for several minutes. With one thrust of 
his lance he ripped open the skin of the bull, leaving a gash 
eighteen inches long. This only made him more furious. In 
another desperate charge he took the poor horse clear off his- 
feet, ripped open his belly and threw him with his rider head 
over heels against the barrier. The mantle bearers now rushed 
at and surrounded him, taking his attention from the wounded 
horse which sprang to his feet ; the lancer mounted him again 
and rode him around the ring with his bowels trailing on the 
ground and his stomach hanging between his legs. The bull 
tnen made another charge, plunging his long sharp horns into 
the poor horse's chest from which the blood ran astroma stuck 
pig ; the horse fell dead with his rider on his back. Soon the 
Dull began to show signs of fatigue. Then the fighters with 
their barbed sticks commenced their atta.ck, planting their tor- 
menting barbs in his shoulders and back until he again became 
maddened with fury and renewed the attack upon the mantle 
bearers and lancers. Thus, in less than half an hour, this mad 
bull had mortally wounded one and killed outright three horses. 
The audience were now in a proper frame of mind to see the 
bull killed. 

The swordsman entered the arena, bowed to the Royal 
box, and asked the usual permission to kill the foe. With 
nothing but his sword and red flag, he advanced directly in 
front. After many changes by the bull and hairbreadth 



Exciting Sport. 2*37 

escapes of the man, he got the bull in a proper position, with 
his head down to make a charge when, quick as lightning, he 
sprang upon him directly between the horns, and planted his 
sword up to the hilt between his shoulder blades down into 
his chest. The bull gave a look of surprise, trembled a little, 
kept up the fight for, perhaps, a minute, with the sword in his- 
chest, then lolled out his tongue and fell upon his knees. In 
an instant the swordsman sprang upon him again, and with 
one blow from a short dagger, directly behind the horns, he 
severed the spinal cord and the brute fell over dead. Three 
richly caparisoned mules were now driven into the ring and, 
amid the shouts of the audience, dragged out the dead horse.^ 
first and then the murdered bull. 

Thus from 5 to 8 P. M. the fight continued, until thirteen 
horses and four bulls were slaughtered. Some of the horses 
had their paunches ripped out, others ran around with their 
bowels trailing on the ground ; some were killed at a single 
thrust ; others were not finally slaughtered until after several 
charges. The most cruel part of the sport was the killing of 
the poor old horses. They were all blindfolded, and, if one 
showed sufficient strength and spirit to sustain his rider, he 
would be protected for a while by a dexterous use of the lance ; 
but as soon as the horse began to show signs of failure, he was 
invariably placed by his rider in a proper position to receive 
his death. The bulls showed great courage and enormous 
strength. One of them threw a horse completely over his head 
killing him instantly. These bulls are permitted to run wild 
in parts of Spain and are captured by letting tame bulls run 
among them. When three or four tame bull;- are driven into 
a coral the wild ones follow them and are captured and then 
subjected to a system of training by torture and by permitting 
them to kill old horses. 

After the fight was over three wild bulls,, with knobs on, 
their horns, were let into the arena for the amusement of the 
boys. I saw one fellow whose whole ambition, I have na 
doubt, was to become a bull-fighter, jump with his red flag 
before one of the bulls, but he was not agile enough to escape ; 
he was thrown ten feet in the air and as he tell was rolled up 
into a ball. I was sure the boy was killed, but his companions 
with their flags took the attention of the bull and the fellow, 
gathered himself up and ran for dear life, leaving his flag be- 
hind. 

I find it very difficult to describe my feelings during the. 
cruel spectacle. When I saw the first horse killed I felt like 
leaving the place. I resolved never to witness another, and. 
yet the next day I felt as if I would like to see just one more 
fight. This abominable feeling still has possession of my heart. 



238 Seville. 

I think when I go back to Madrid I will see one more bull 
fight and then swear off forever. Why is it more cruel, after 
all, than pigeon shooting or cock-fighting ? True, there is not 
quite so much danger in the latter, but, if it be true that a 
dying insect " feels a pang as great as when a giant dies," 
then it is as cruel to kill a harmless dove as a poor, faithful, 
but wornout horse. 

We left Madrid for Seville the day after the fight, and 
spent fifteen hours in the cars through the most fertile part 
of Spain. The large cities of Spain are very far apart. The 
most remarkable thing noticed by the traveler along the route, 
is the great apparent drouth and absence of all natural trees or 
forests. Seville is a very pretty city. Its beauty, however, 
has to be sought, it is not seen without searching for it. The 
houses are mostly large, old, well-preserved and perfectly white. 
The streets are very tortuous and narrow. The houses are 
entered from the street through a high wooden gate, well pro- 
tected with iron spikes. The front windows on the first floor 
are barred like prisons. After the outer gate comes the iron 
grill. Then the really beautiful and highly decorated court- 
yard. This is freshened by a liberal display of exotic trees, 
palms, flowers, and great-leaved tropical plants, watered by 
beautiful fountains. The time to see Seville is from seven 
o'clock in the evening till midnight. All the gates from the 
streets to the court yards are then open, the yards in full view 
and the well-dressed men, women and maids of rare beauty are 
enjoying the evening in various ways in their little apparent 
paradises. In the daytime the same houses look repulsive and 
prison like. The air of Seville is said to be most salubrious 
and its suburbs most' charming in the Spring. It is undoubt- 
edly one of the oldest cities in Spain. The Greeks called it 
Ispola. Julius Caesar entered the city 45 B. C. Almost all 
the monuments of its early glory have passed away. When 
the Moors were driven from Spain there were 12,000 Moorish 
families living in Seville, most of whom left the city with all 
their wealth. It is said. that over 400,000 Moors, Jews and 
Arabs abandoned the city in less than one year. Its whole 
population, at this time, does not exceed 140,000. The cathe- 
dral is a very fine church and covers about as much ground as 
the Philadelphia public buildings. The Alcazar, a Moorish 
building, by some considered equal to the Alhambra, is well 
worth a close inspection. There are in the churches and mu- 
seum several master-pieces of the old Sevillian painters. Its 
bull fights are the most celebrated in Andalusia. The maidens 
of Seville are really very beautiful. They have soft black eyes 
and profuse black tresses which they wear something like the 
Japanese ladies. More than one reminded me of Yum Yum. 



Seville to Cadiz. 23,9 

They can play most gracefully with their fans, and have most 
fascinating manners. The young men of the city are also very 
handsome. Here our praises must end. The middle-aged 
are homely, the old are repulsive. Some of the girls marry 
at twelve, are mothers at thirteen and old and ugly at twenty- 
five. The city is not increasing in population as fast as was 
expected after the introduction of the railroad. It has a new 
part but as yet it has no attractions for travelers. In all other 
respects it looks to me about like other old European cities. 
The men, women, dogs and cats, especially the dogs, look 
very much like the same breed at home. Some well bred and 
some scurvy whelps. 

From what I had read of Seville I expected too much, I 
imagine this is the experience of most travelers'. Our antici- 
pations are seldom realized. 

Our next resting place will be Cadiz. 



LIL 



Seville to Cadiz — Cacti Horse High and Hog Strong — 
—Mankind the Same the World Over — The Same as 
TO Dogs — Beautiful Girl Beggars — Sherry Wine — 
Sacreligious Names — Hunting Without Dogs— Salt 
Vats — Cadiz Night Scenes of Beauty — No Carpets — 
Tile Floors, and Whitewashed Houses — The Cathe- 
dral — Too Much Religion — The Fossils of Spain- 
Dangers, Difficulties and Disappointments— Nearly 
Wrecked — Waiting for Sunday. 

Cadiz, Spain, August, 1889. 
By taking a fast train at Seville, we arrived at Cadiz in 
about five hours. The name is pronounced here Kadiz ; the 
a being sounded as in the word J at,, and the z- like our s in 
kiss. We follow the rich valley of the Guadalquivir to within 
a few miles of the peninsula upon which the city stands. The 
fertility of the soil is proved by the rapid succession of its 
crops. Indian corn is planted in hills not more than one foot 
apart and yields fine, well-formed ears. The great vineyards 
and fields of corn, grass and vegetables, are divided by hedges 
of cacti,, some of which are ten feet high, strong enough to 
keep out a bull and tight enough to defy a hog,. Some of 
them are in bloom, with a centre stock six or eight inches in 
diameter and thirty feet high. The peasants cut them down 
like trees, and use them for the same purposes. The whole 
country is bare of forest trees. The roads are few,, mostlv 



'240 Cadiz. 

traveled by men on asses, or donkeys' loaded with produce in 
very large, clumsy-looking pack-saddles. The manners of the 
people, from Seville to Cadiz, appear to me more Moorish than 
in other parts of Spain. I am still searching, however, for 
something I am quite sure I shall never find— men and women 
with different hearts, or better or worse souls than those of 
our own country. They wear their hair and cut their dresses 
a little differently from us, but they all eat, drink and amuse 
themselves just the same ; they laugh when they are pleased, 
they weep when they are afflicted, just like other people ; some 
will lie, steal and swear, others devote their lives to good 
works, while a few are standing models of moral and intel- 
lectual virtues. 

Spain has a great many beggars, but not more than Italy 
or Ireland. The beggars here frequent the cafes in the cities, 
and sit around the church doors. One class of beggars I 
notice reaps a richer harvest than all the rest. I refer to 
pretty young girls with sweet little bastard babies in their 
arms. Almost every man she asks gives her a penny ; of 
course she knows who to solicit from. The poor, old, blind, 
halt and crippled beggars do not fare so well, but we see 
many a kindl}' looking man quietly slip a piece of copper in 
the outstretched hand of a blind old man or woman sitting 
bareheaded in the broiling sun. The policemen seem kind to 
almost all the street beggars ; now and then they will inter- 
fere with well-known impostors, but the really afflicted beggar 
is never ordered out of the most fashionable cafe. 

On our journey from Seville to Cadiz we passed through 
the world-renowned sherry wine district ; we stopped long 
enough to taste the wine ; it is a much lighter wine than the 
sherry of our countr)^ It will not keep in our climate as it 
comes from the press here. All the wine intended for England 
or America is fortified by the addition of sugar which causes 
a second fermentation and additional alcoholic strength, and 
also changes the flavor of the wine. Dry sherry is made by 
adding a sufficient quantity of pure alcohol instead of sugar. 
Most of the sherry vine^^ards have religious names, b}^ which 
their wines are known A name once adopted to distinguish 
the wine of any particular proprietor, becomes his trademark 
and is not lawfully appropriated by any other wine grower. 
The Spaniards are good Catholics and delight in naming their 
wines and their children after saints and sacred things. Thus, 
it is no uncommon thing to find a plump little boy bearing the 
name of Jesus. It sounds very well while he is a little cherub 
in his mother's arms, but when some rough, swearing, or 
drunken sailor is known by the same name it sounds, to our 
ears, a little sacreligious. These thoughts were suggested by 



Cad^z. 241 

the name adopted by one of the largest vineyard proprietors in 
the sherry district. To distinguish the peculiar excellence of 
his wines, he named his vineyard "Jesus, Mary and Joseph.'' 
This would be considered a very profane use of a most sacred 
name in our country, but it is not so looked upon here. 

As we traversed some of the pasture lands along the valley, 
we noticed great flocks of sheep, droves of cattle and horses, 
and herds of hogs roaming and grazing over immense fenceless 
prairies. We also saw gentlemen hunting on horseback in the 
same fields. A peculiarity of the hunt was the absence of dogs. 
The horses are used to start up the game and the sportsman is 
expected to shoot it from his seat in the saddle. 

Just before entering the little horn upon which Cadiz is 
built, we passed through several miles of salt vats, dug in the 
flat marshes near the sea. The evaporation of confined salt 
water is very rapid here. The sea water is run into thousands 
of pits dug for that purpose, and then shut off from the sea by 
flood gates. As the water evaporates the salt precipitates and 
forms a crust on the water. It is then raked out, dried and 
heaped up into pyramids, some as large as houses. The whole 
country for many miles was white with these pyramids of salt, 
looking very much like large white tents. 

The city of Cadiz is most admirably situated on a tongue 
of land jutting out into the sea. It is almost completely sur- 
rounded by water. Its present population is only about seventy 
thousand, but its commerce is enormous. It and Barcelona 
are the chief seaports of Spain. The streets are like thos^ of 
Seville, the houses are high and milk white. The streets are 
so narrow that, by a municipal regulation, carriages are required 
to move only in one way as it would be impossible for them 
to pass. There are no curbstones ; foot passengers must press 
the walls of the houses when a cart or carriage passes The 
streets are kept in good order ; indeed, the whole city has the 
appearance of great cleanliness. The beauty of the city is best 
seen at night when the gardens and streets are very brilliantly 
lighted, and the doors and gates of the private houses are open, 
showing their paradisaical little courtyards and beautiful maid- 
ens. The whole city is a fort, surrounded by great walls of 
stone, seventy feet thick, with parapets armed with cannon. 
The promenade on the top of the wall is sixty feet wide and 
gives to the city, when seen from the sea, a very formidable 
appearance The city could only be captured by being shelled 
from a distance, or starved into submission. The Spanish 
government claims to have the most efficient torpedo known to 
the world. They say, by actual experiment, they can blow 
the largest man-of-war sixty feet out of water. 

There are no steps, staircases or floors of wood in the 



2'42' Too Much Religion. 



houses of Cadiz ; all are made of tile and white marble ; even the 
bath tubs are marble, giving to the interior of the dwellings 
an air of delicious coolness. I have not seen a carpet or piece 
of matting in Spain ; whether thej^ have them in the winter or 
not, I cannot say. 

The action of the sea air very rapidly decomposes the 
marble used in the outside walls. Some of the churches, es- 
pecially the Cathedral, although of comparatively modern con- 
struction, have a very old appearance. To preserve the fine 
marble dome of the Cathedral they have covered it with vitri- 
fied terra-cotta. Some of the finest modern buildings are now 
built of brick and painted w:hite. It is found that brickwork 
is the most imperishable. The new theatre, now in course of 
construction, is composed of this material ; it will be one of 
the largest theatres in Spain when finished. The Cathedral is 
a splendid edifice of greystone, faced inside with various speci- 
mens of the finest European marble. It was finished at a cost 
of $1,500,000. 

Aside from its walls, and the peculiar construction of the 
city, there are but few wonderful sights to be seen in Cadiz. 
The days here, in summer, are rather warm, but the nights are 
deliciously cool. Spain, like some of the countries of Asia, is 
cursed with too much religion. A reasonable religious ardor 
is healthy and necessary for the happiness and prosperity of 
every government, but Spain has carried her reverence for holy- 
things too far. Until within a short time, nearly every other 
day was a religious holiday and observed more strictly than 
Sunday. The people are now struggling to get rid of its ex- 
cessive number of feast and fast days. We arrived on the 14th. 
of this month. We were surprised to find the city in a blaze 
of gas lights and filled with musicians and citizens in dress 
suits and holiday attire. The next day I called on my banker 
but found his office closed and a notice upon the door that it 
woulJ be opened the next day between 1 1 and 4. It was abso- 
lutely necessary that I should have some money, as we had 
made our arrangements to take ship the next morning at seven 
for Tangier, in Africa. After a great deal of annoyance I 
secured an interview with him. He informed me that this was 
the commencement of the festival of the Ascension, and that 
it was considered, in Spain, a much more sacred day than 
Sunday ; but as I was in need of money he would procure it 
for me, as a work oi charity. He took my letter of credit and 
said, if he could succeed in finding any friends with as much 
spare cash as I wanted, he would call at my hotel with it about 
2 P. M. About 3 P. M. he made his appearance ; he said he 
could not get access to any of the banks, but had borrowed 
from different friends the money I wanted. He informed me. 



Ascension Day. ^45 



in a Conversation^ that the Queen was popular, but there is a 
marked dissatisfaction at this time with what the people call 
the "Fossils of Spain." The Queen has all her court dressed 
in the very best French style, the effect of which has been I0 
drive the former fantastic costumes of Spanish belles and beaux 
almost entirely out of Spaiuv 

Our trouble did not end with the close of Ascension Day-. 
The ship was to sail at 7 A. M^/and no passengers would be 
received on board without a ticket, prepaid, to be procured 
at the company's office in the city. We went for,. our tickets 
and were informed that, in Consequence of this being the eve of 
Ascension Day, the office would not be open until after 10 P. M. 
We went at the time appointed, paid our one hundred francs 
and secured our tickets. We now retired to bed to dream 
of Africa, upon whose burning bosom we expected to pass 
our next night. At 5 A. M. we arose, got a hasty cup of coffee 
and milk and a small roll of bread, and started for the ship, 
which was about half a mile from the wharf, lying at anchor. 
Our guide put us on a small sailing boat to embark us on our 
ship. I noticed that the sea in the bay was very rough, but did 
not suppose it was dangerously so. We. soon found ourselves 
tossed about like a cork in the breakers. For one hour the boat^ 
man endeavored to put us on board. His assistant, a boy of 
about fifteen, began to pray and cry like a baby. The sails 
dashed from side to side over our heads, and the waves every 
now and then flew over us. At last the boatman said it was im- 
possible to make the ship and coolly got his anchor ready to 
throw over in case of necessity. The ship steamed up and starb 
ed at full speed, with two forlorn travelers left behind, and a 
hundred francs worse than sunk in the sea. All we could un- 
derstand from the boatman was "Domingo — Reclamacion," 
which we understood to mean that we could take ike ship again 
on Sunday or get our mone}^ back. We returned to our hotel 
in high dudgeon, mad as two March hares. We were coolly- 
informed that it was only a matter of three days. That the same 
ticket was good for Sunday, etc. I had encountered too many 
disappointments and overcome too many difficulties to let the 
mere matter of a furious storm in the Atlantic stop me. I had 
started for Africa and there I would go> if it took all summer, 
so we went to our rooms to muse on the uncertainties of human 
events, and put in the time as best we could for three weary 
daj'S. About 5 P. M. one of the waiters came to our chamber 
door and knocked with a nervous vigor very different from the 
gentle tap of former occasions. He had come to congratulate 
us upon our escape. The ship had encountered a terrible storm> 
came near being wrecked and had returned to port in distress. 
SliC would start again to-morrow at 6 A. M., if the storm 



244 Cadiz to Tangier, 

sufl&ciently abated to make it safe. We were greatly relieved by 
this news, as we would now only lose one day. We waited 
patiently all day, went to bed soon so that we could rise early ^ 
but just before putting out our candles the same waiter again 
knocked at the door to inform us that the ship would start at 
3 A. M. and we would have to get up at two, at the same time- 
giving us a gentle hint that it was not certain that she would 
not abandon the voyage and wait till Sunday. We concluded 
to wait till Sunday. 

We are now patiently waiting,, but Sunday seems as far off 
as Christmas used to in our boyhood days. 



LIII. 



Cadiz to Tangie;r — ^Labor Omnia Vi'ncit— An Oriental 
City — A Consui. in Bad Repute — SivAvery, Mohamme- 
danism AND Polygamy — Twenty-Five Dollars for the 
Soul and Body of a Beautiful Girl — New Wine in 
Old Bottles — 'A I^awless and Dangerous Place — Going 
UP ON THE House Top to Pray — Sleeping, Heels Up 
AND Head Down— The Graveyard of the Faithful — 
A Pilgrimage for Mecca — Moorish Modesty — Moham- 
medan Saints — Palaces, Jails,, Schools and Concerts 
— A Sea Bath — The Beginning of the End. 

Tangier, Africa, August, 1889. 
By persevering we have prevailed and are now upon the 
veritable soil of Africa. It is difficult to realize that all around 
us is not an enchantment, a dream, or a theatrical representa- 
tion of some Oriental tale. It is impossible to describe this 
singular, dirty, dreamy old city. Its narrow lanes, called 
s-treets, its whitewashed one-story flat-roofed houses,, its bare- 
legged and turbaned inhabitants, its beggars, slaves and ba- 
zaars, must be seen to be properly understood. If you want 
an accurate description of the place read the " Arabian Night's 
Entertainment," and the pictures it contains will be perfect 
pen paintings of Tangier. Bagdad and Damascus cannot be 
more oriental or primitive, in manners as well as architecture,, 
than this equally old city. Its chief sights are the life, man- 
ners, and costumes seen everywhere in the streets. Its entire 
population does not exceed eighteen thousand, and only four 
hundred wear European costumes. The city is the politico- 
diplomatic capital of Morocco. The four hundred Europeans 
residing in the city are chiefly foreign ministers, consuls, with 
their families and attendants. 



Tangier. 24c; 

The voyage from Cadiz, wind and weather being favorable, 
is made in about six hours. The ships are very good sea 
steamers of English build. O'Shea had warned us not to at- 
tempt to visit Tangier before October, as the heat of August, 
he said, was unendurable for a white man ; and that we would 
be also in danger of the African fever. As we had found him 
unreliable in his advice about other places, we had concluded 
to read his book as the old farmer read Dodd's Almanac — when 
it said rain, the old farmer always looked for fair weather. 
The sequel proved the correctness of our conclusion. 

Our ship ' ' The Mogador ' ' hugged the Spanish coast as 
far as Cape Trafalgar, from which point, by a sudden tack, we 
ran across the mouth of the Straits of Gibraltar into the Bay 
of Tangier. As we looked towards the Straits, the highlands 
of both Europe and Africa were plainly visible. We did not 
pass over the historic waters off Cape Trafalgar without calling 
to mind L,ord Nelson's famous victory of October 21st, 1805, 
fought at the very spot over which our ship passed. We had 
seen in the British Museum the letter Eord Nelson wrote on 
the eve of the battle, directed to his mistress, I,ady Hamilton, 
It indicated a premonition of approaching death. His last 
wish was for the welfare of his mistress whom he commended 
to the care of the English people. They erected countless 
monuments to the memory of their hero but, very properly,, 
gave lyady Hamilton the cold shoulder and left her to find an- 
other lover or take care of herself. 

My former impressions of the African coast were very in- 
correct. It is very rough and barren, wind blown and hilly,, 
not unlike the coast of Spain, but more mountainous. The 
Bay of Tangier is very secure against storms ; it is sheltered, 
by an amphitheatre of mountains. The city is built in tiers 
up the sides of the hills at the right, as we enter the bay. On 
the top of the hills, overlooking the city, there are several well- 
built European houses inhabited by the ministers, diplomats 
and foreign consuls. 

Our dragoman seemed to have a very bad opinion of the 
United States. He told some very disgraceful stories about 
our Consul. I will not repeat them as they are, perhaps, slan- 
ders ; but if the one-tenth of what he said is true, our Consul 
ought not only to be removed, but also severely punished for 
bis conduct here during the past three years. 

The inhabitants are not negroes ; they are Arabs and 
.Moors, The language of the city is Arabic. The few black 
people we saw were slaves or servants to their Moorish mas- 
ters. I could have bought male or female slaves, fine looking 
and young, for about five pounds a head (twenty-five dollars). 
The city is cursed with the three great evils of the earth — 



246 Praying on the Housetop. 

Slavery, Polygamy and Mohammedanism. It seems to be a 
place without law. The streets are long, narrow and tortuotiS) 
and are never lighted at night. Men could be murdered here 
in the streets, on a dark night, and the crime would not be 
discovered before daylight. A few days ago a Spaniard killed 
a Moor in a dispute over a half franc (ten cents)- No arrest 
was made and the murderer is now safe in Spain. A more 
filthy place cannot be imagined ; it has not been cleaned fof 
hundreds of years, except by dogs and rains. All the garbage^ 
offal of the slaughter pens, sheep's heads, dead animals and 
contents of the privies are thrown into the streets. The streets 
are, however, so constructed that a heavy shower will wash 
their filth into the sea. They are very roughly paved and 
have not been repaired for, perhaps, a' hundred years or more. 

The house tops are all flat, often of stone or cement over 
the arched chamber below, and are used as places of prayer, 
meditation, smoking and amusement, after sunset. We saw 
from the balcony of our hotel several devout Mussel men at 
their prayers on their housetops. I also saw, just after sun- 
down, a loaded camel endeavor to enter the city through .one 
of the low arched gates. His burden was too high, where- 
upon his driver made him kneel and then took from his back 
several large sacks. The camel then got up and entered the 
city through the arch. I could now better understand the 
Scriptural expression concerning the rich man, and the camel 
going through the needle's eye. The "Needle's Eye" was 
undoubtedly the name of one of the low arched gates of Jeru- 
salem, where the camels had to be unloaded before they could 
enter the city. I could also fully comprehend the story of 
JPeter's vision, when he was hungry and went up on the house 
top to pray. 

Water for drinking purposes is drawn from wells and 
springs, poured into goat skins and carried about the city on 
the backs of peddlers. We visited one of the famous springs 
from which the drinking water is drawn. The sight was very 
disgusting ; the spring basin was full of dirty Arabs washing 
the filth from their feet and legs, some of them in the water up 
to their waists, filling their goatskins, to be sold to the thirsty 
citizens at a penny a quart. These goatskins are called in the 
Arabic language, bottles, and are the same as those spoken of 
in the New Testament as unfit, when old, to be filled with new 
wine. When they are new, that is just stripped from the goat, 
they are elastic and yield to the gases of fermentation, but 
when old they, like leather, lose this elasticity and the force 
■of fermentation bursts them. 

We found the Arabs and Moors much more bigoted Mo- 
hammedans than they were at Constantinople, They will not 



Pilgrimage to Mecca. 247 

permit an unbeliever to enter their mosques on any pretext ; 
we were permitted to look at the exterior, but could not enter 
its sacred portals. There are no chairs, sofas, or even benches 
upon which to sit, in the houses, shops, churches or places oL 
amusement. They sit cross-legged on mats made from reeds, 
or on the bare floor or stone pavement. They seem to be great 
sleepers and can repose in any position. They have no pillows 
and rest as comfortably with their heads hanging down as with 
them raised up. They sleep in the streets, stretched out at 
full length on the stone pavement, or cuddled up like dogs in 
some nook or corner. I have no doubt but that Jacob was 
accustomed to just such habits, and that he slept as sweetly on 
his pillow of stone, when he dreamed of heaven and saw the 
angels ascending and descending, as one of us would have re- 
posed upon a pillow of down. 

Just outside of the built-up part of the city there is a stony, 
barren hill, used as a graveyard, entirely naked and unorna- 
mented. It is now the camping ground of a caravan from the 
interior, consisting of many hundred religious devotees on a 
pilgrimage to Mecca. They got here a few days too late for 
the ship they were to join to convey them to Syria ; as a con- 
sequence they will have to wait here, perhaps, nine months or 
a year. They do not seem to value time. They are very dirty , 
half naked and degraded looking creatures. Their tents are 
made of poles, sticks and old mats, full of vermin and most 
forbidding in their general appearance. About all they do is 
to sit around the streets, sleep, read the Koran, say their pray- 
ers, and wash their filthy bodies in the wells and springs from 
which the drinking water is drawn. 

I saw young girls, nearly naked, bending over the walled, 
well curbs, drawing up water. Their faces were pretty well 
veiled, but all the rest of their bodies were very much exposed. 
I also saw them from the balcony of our hotel, bathing in a 
little cove of the sea set apart for their special use, as naked as 
they were born. They did not seem to have the slightest idea 
of what we would call female modesty. They, however,, con- 
sider it very immodest for a beautiful lady to expose her /ace 
to public view. 

The caravan of pilgrims had in their company several Mo- 
hammedan Saints. They wore white turbans and shirts ; 
they were evidently religious monomaniacs. They sit in one 
position all day, in the sun, reading aloud portions of the 
Koran and making ejaculatory speeches and harangues to 
those around them. 

We visited the palace of the Emperor, a mean looking, 
building from the outside view, but very prettily and delicately 
finished within, with carved wood and plaster in the form of 



248 A Moorish Cafe. 

fine lace drapery. It must have taken a very long time and 
great patience to carve out the lace work, as it was all done 
with a simple knife by the hand of the artist. We also visited 
the barracks, jail, and place of Justice. The Emperor's horses 
looked like subjects for a Spanish bull fight at a dollar a head. 
The Kmperor has a great number of excellent saddles, but 
very few good horses and still fewer soldiers to ride them. We 
also visited one of the schools where children are taught to read 
the Koran. It looked like a low stable ; the teacher was sit- 
ting on his crossed legs in the centre and the little urchins 
sitting in the same manner around him. They held little 
pasteboards in their hands upon which was written the passage 
they were to learn. The teacher would read it aloud and the 
scholars repeat after him in concert. This they do from hour 
to hour and irom day to day until they have the entire book 
committed to memory. 

After supper we visited a Moorish cafe and concert room. 
Our dragoman assured us there was no danger, but we noticed 
that he provided us with quite a body guard. He walked by 
our side, a full-fledged Arab went ahead and the landlord, in 
Moorish costume, brought up the rear. We walked through 
a very dark, narrow street for some time till we reached the 
concert room, a miserable one-story building, with bamboo . 
rafters, covered with reed matting and branches of trees. Six 
Arabs and Moors were the musicians, who sat in the centre of 
the room on the floor, singing, clapping their hands and saw- 
ing upon instruments with one and two strings. There were 
some ten or fifteen spectators in the room, squatting around on 
the floor, drinking coffee, which by the way was very good. 
The whole affair reminded me of the old time plantation songs 
of our colored people. I confess I did not feel altogether safe 
until I was in my hotel again. While the concert was pro- 
gressing, a tall, lank saint entered the room. He did not 
speak a word. He looked toward Mecca, ejaculated a prayer, 
bowed his head to the ground several times, then walked around 
the room and kissed each of the faithful on the top of his head, 
after which, with great dignity, he left the room. 

We retired to our beds about 11 P. M., expecting, after 
the fatigue of the day, a good night's rest, but we were kept 
awake nearly all night by the howling, fighting and barking of 
dogs and braying of asses. 

I could not have believed, if I had not seen it, that six 
hours' travel could carry us from a city of high European cul- 
ture and comfort to one of such primitive customs and cos- 
tumes. Before leaving we took a bath in the sea. The water 
was quite cold, the beach and surf were equal to Cape May. 
Our dragoman made the necessary arrangements for our bathing 



TANGlE5ft. 24'^ 

Tdhc$. 'They were sufficient for Africa, but would hardly do 
for Cape May. Mine consisted of a napkin and my son's of 
a bandana handkerchief. A couple of turbaned Moors, evi- 
dently of the higher class, as they wore perfectly white clean 
robes, seemed very much interested in us. They were evi- 
dently amused at our white skins. 

The weather was very cool and pleasant. The thermom^ 
eter did not register above eighty-two and the sea breeze was 
-strong and refreshing. We could walk all over the hills of 
the city without much perspiration. The thermometer is 
^never below sixty in Tangier. Those who wish to see Tangier 
as we have seen it must visit it soon, for the beginning of the 
end of this style of life and civilization is very apparent. A 
•new hotel on the plan of those of Paris, and to be conducted by 
a French company, is now being built. The one we are 
stopping at is conducted by an Englishman from Gibraltar. 
While he and all his waiters adopt the Moorish costume, he 
thinks it will soon be discarded for the European dress. Many 
of the Moors have European suits, which they wear when they 
go to Gibraltar or Cadiz. The dresses of the four hundred 
Europeans who live in the city are no longer objects of curi- 
osity in the eyes of the people. Several fine new houses of 
European architecture are now being built on the hill over- 
looking the city and facing the sea. I predict that Tangier^ 
before fifty years, will be like Cadiz and, perhaps, adopt the 
costumes and manners of Paris and London. I am, to a cer- 
tain extent, a believer in evolution. The fittest must survive-^ 
Electricity and steam, assisted by Peace, must eventually make 
the world cosmopolite. 

Our dragoman promised us a wild boar hunt if we would 
stay a week, but I remembered the sad fate of Adonis and de- 
clined the proffered sport. 

I may sum up the whole matter by saying that I wohld 
not have missed my visit to Tangier for ten times its cost. It 
has been one of the most interesting excursions of my life-. 
We leave here this morning at 9 to return again to Cadiz-. 
From there we intend to visit Cordova to see its world renown^ 
ed Mosque and old Roman bridge over the Guadalquivir. It 
will require ten hours by rail to make the journey. 



25Q Tangier to Cordova. 



T/iV 

Tangier to Cordova— Cadiz Sken from the Sea — ^Delap- 
iDATED Cordova— MosouE of One Thousand Columns — 
Roman Bridge and Moorish Mills — Cordova to Pa!ris 
— Primitive Farming — High Taxes — Back to Madrid 
— The Country of Don Quixote — Avila — Valladolid 
—Religious Intolerance— Burgos — The I^ead Mines 
OF Spain— Second Thought as to the Exposition — * 
Eminent Men of the Past One Hundred Years. 

Paris, August, i88g. 
We left Tangier with some regret, but the fact that we 
were now to turn our faces homeward compensated us for our 
farewell to Africa. It was our first visit to the dark continent. 
The Spaniards call Cadiz the "silver cup in the sea," but to 
us, as we approached it and sailed almost entirely around it in 
order to enter its beautiful harbor, it seemed like a white pearl 
set in. azure. It looks like a city of white marble rising from 
the sea. The charm was broken when we landed. We found 
the same old Cadiz of stone, stucco and whitewash. 

As soon as possible we procured our tickets for Cordova, 
which we reached in about ten hours. By procuring the ser- 
vices of a good guide we were able to see the whole city in one 
day. In the Vllth century Cordova was the rival of Bagdad 
and Damascus, with a population of 300,000. It had six 
hundred mosques and eight hundred public schools. Its 
yearly income was $30,000,000. It was a city of palaces, 
mosques, learning and luxury. It now looks like a wrinkled 
but royal old widow, mourning beside the dilapidated tomb of 
her dead consort and buried children , 

In the quarrel between Caesar and Pompey, Cordova, 
unfortunately for it, espoused the cause of the latter. After 
his victory of Munda, Caesar, in cold blood, slaughtered 28,000 
of its best citizens. 

When St. Ferdinand captured the city from the Moors, 
singular as it may seem, it began to decline and has slowly 
but steadily continued its downward course till now it can 
barely count 50,000 inhabitants. The ground upon which 
much of the old city stood is now devoted to agriculture. 
When the French were driven from Spain they carried with 
them several hundred thousand dollars' worth of silver from 
Cordova. The silver chandelier, stolen from the cathedral, 
has since been restored. 



Cordova.. 251 

The mosque of Cordova is now its chief object of attrac- 
tion. It is certainly a very striking piece of Moorish archi^ 
tecture. It contained over twelve hundred marble columns 
which, at the first view, one would take to be the works of the 
Moorish builders, but upon a close inspection all the columns 
will be found to be the work of Western architects. They 
were collected by the Moors from alt quarters of the earth, 
from Rome, Greece, and every other country under Moorish 
dominion or in alliance with them. -Many of these columns 
were presents from Christian kings and emperors. They are 
all of about the same diameter but of various lengths. Hardly 
two of the capitals are alike ; on some the capital is too small, 
on others too large; some are in true proportion. To give 
them the appearance of regularity, the columns have no bases, 
but are buried in the ground at Unequal depths, so that the 
floor, which is of fine marble and iiiosaic, comes up to the same 
level and makes the forest of columns look all of the same size. 
It is said that there is nothing in the world like this mosque. 
I have never seen any building with which it can be compared. 
It is but one story high and had originally a flat roof of timber 
(over the horse-shoe arches, sprung from column to column), 
which was richly carved in lace work and covered with gold. 
On entering for the first time, it. strikes the mind with a pecu- 
liar sensation of vastness and splendor. All the columns are 
monoliths. Whichever way we turn our faces a vista of 
columns and arches is presented to the view. During the 
Moorish occupation, the roof and arches were hung with thou- 
sands of gold and silver lamps, giving to the whole an enchant- 
ing appearance of oriental beauty. In a word, it looks like 
" a wildernsss of coluoms aud arches, " The only credit, to 
my mind, the Moorish architects are entitled to is the unique 
design by which they have erected a most charming structure 
from materials that otherwise would have remained only as 
objects of curiosity in the museums of the world. 

The old bridge of Cordova is chiefly interesting for its 
great antiquit}^ grace and beauty. Even now, in its dilapi- 
dated condition, its beautiful arches give to the work an 
appearance of strength and grace. It was built by Octavius 
Caesar and is still in reasonably good condition. Just below 
the bridge are several grain mills erected by the Moors but 
still in running order. The rapid flow of the Guadalquivir 
turns the water wheels and keeps the machinery in motion as 
in the da^^s of 3'ore. 

To get out of Spain it is necessary to go back to Madrid. 
Like the roads of Rome, all the railroads of Spain point to- 
ward Madrid. 

From Madrid to Paris is 909 miles by the shortest route. 



25"2 Back to' Madrid. 



The railroad passes through some of the finest scenery and 
tttDSt celebrated places in Spain. Some of the scenery of the 
Pyrenees is only surpassed by Switzerland. 

We were especially struck with the primitive farming 
throughout Spain, A good plow, such as is in common use 
in France and the rest of Europe and America, is seldom seen. 
in Spain ; we have not seen one. They are all home-made,, 
drawn by ropes tied to the horns of oxen, and the best only 
scratch the ground. The carts are also home made, wheels- 
and all. We are told that some. of the peasant families live on 
the expenditure of twenty cents a day. The whole family 
work in the fields. We saw a father, with a six-week-old babe 
in his arms, driving the oxen while the mother guided the plow 
and a little seven-year-old urchin ran after them with a club 
breaking up the clods, Mjst of the ground in the hilly dis- 
tricts is cultivated with great heavy hoes ; about four persons, 
in a row strike in their hoes at the same time and then turn 
over the soil which looks very much like plowed ground. 

Spain is at least a hundred years behind the rest of Europe. 
The land, while seemingly the property of the farmers, is 
really owned by the Crown, The rents are collected in the 
shape of taxes which, we are told., equal about one-fourth of 
the gross revenue of the land. All the taxes go directly to 
Madrid and never return. The thirsty city drinks dry the 
river of gold constantly flowing into its ever open mouth. 

The whole country is in about the condition of France 
before the revolution of 1793. Let us hope that the Spanish 
Government will be wise in time, and by a vigorous State 
policy get rid of its many drawbacks to prosperity. Otherwise 
the people will throw off their burdens as they did in France 
in 1793. 

From Cardova to Madrid we passed over the world- 
renowned " Campus de la Mancha," the birthplace and scene 
of many of the exploits of the " wisest of fools, and shrewdest 
of madmen" — Don Q.uixote de la Mancha. We saw the 
little village where Cervantes wrote his novel while in jail for 
debt. The people of the country firmly believe in the actual 
existence of the doughty old knight. 

In our journey from Madrid to Paris we passed some towns 
ot historic interest. Avila has a fine mediaeval cathedral and 
feudal castle of great apparent strength. The town itself has 
now a very mean appearance. Yalladolid, however, is a very 
handsome town of its kind. It stands 2 100 feet above the level 
of the sea and was the former capital of Spain. It lies about 
200 miles north of Madrid. It is chiefly notorious as the 
birthplace of one of Spain's bigoted and cruel kings, Philip II, 
who burnt heretics and bnilt the Escurial. The first auto de 



On to Paris. 255 



fe at Valladolid took place May 21, 1559. Seats sold at what 
would be now equivalent to three or four dollars each. Deli- 
cate ladies and little children witnessed the burning alive of 
fourteen Lutheran christians as they would look at a bull fight. 
I believe there are bigoted men to-day, of all denominations, 
who would do the same thing if they had the power. No one 
church is responsible for that feeling of religious intoleration. 
St. Lawrence, Philip II's patron saint, was fried on a gridiron 
as a heretic in his day, and the Puritans of New England 
hung the Quakers upon the same principle. 

The last city of Spain through which we pass <?« route to 
Paris is old Burgos, up among the Pyrenees, 2867 feet above 
the level of the sea. It is a cold, cheerless looking place now, 
but was the gayest city in Spain when it was the capital of 
Castile. It contains a fine cathedral of mediaeval architecture, 
but we have seen so many old churches and museums that we 
begin to grow weary of this class of sight-seeing. The old- 
town is chiefly interesting as the birth-place of the Cid. Plis 
bones are preserved here in a walnu* urn. 

"Corneille has told us the tale of tlie Cid, 
Of all that he didn't and all that he did." 

It will, therefore, not be necessary to repeat here his 
deeds of prowess It was here that Edward I of England 
married his fair Eleanor of Castile. 

Soon after leaving Burgos we entered France and had a fine 
view of the sea again. Biarritz is a very fashionable French 
watering place, beautifully situated near the sea. If travelers 
wish they can stop off there for a day. The next place of im- 
portance is Bayonne and then Bordeaux, a seaport town. The 
vineyards around Bordeaux are wonderfully productive and 
are cultivated to their greatest capacity. The balance of the 
journey was not very attractive. The road passes over the flat 
lands of France, looking something like the pine groves of 
New Jersey. 

I do not regard Spain as being as fine a country as France 
The comparison, however, in its present condition of agricul- 
tural cultivation, would hardly be fair. The fruits of Spaiti 
are celebrated all over the world ; it is also very rich in un- 
developed mineral wealth. Her mines have been known since 
the days of Solomon, who sent his ships to Tarshish, whicli 
was undoubtedly Cadiz. 

Very few travelers take the trouble to visit Spain and: 
therefore have a very limited idea of its vastness and the great 
distances between its chief cities. It has an area over three 
thnes that of England. We have traveled nearly three thous- 
and miles in Spain alone and have not been able to see it all. 
Since leaving Liverpool we have traveled over five thousand 



254 Again in Paris. 

miles including our sea trip from Marseiles to Barcelona and 
from Cadiz to Tangier. 

On our arrival back at Paris the weather seemed cold and 
rather disagreeable, perhaps because we had just left the genial 
warmth of Spain. 

Paris is now crowded to overflowing, even the third class 
hotels are full. I visited the Exposition again and came to 
the conclusion, that, if the Eiffel Tower, Edison's phonograph 
and the magnificent buildings were thrown out of the scale, 
it would not outweigh the^ Centennial at Philadelphia very 
much. Take the tower and the phonograph away and the 
Exposition presents nothing worthy of calling the world to- 
gether to see. 

In one corner of the Garden of the Tuilleries I found a 
very interesting panorama presenting, in a very attractive 
form, life-sized representations of all the eminent Frenchmen 
of the last one hundred years. They appear before the spec- 
tator in the most stirring scenes of their lives. The illusion 
is so perfect that one is apt to forget that he is only looking 
upon a painting. 

I believe I have seen everything in Paris worth looking at 
and do not care to waste my time here longet. I would much 
rather rest at home. I leave here to-morrow for London, by 
way of Calais and Dover. 



LV 



Paris to Liverpool — What Can be Seen in Sixty Days 
— Politics and Prophecy — The Great Men of the 
Century— An Astonished Cabman- — Dover — London 
Fogs — Sunday in Hyde Park — Free Speech and Fair 
Play— A Conundrum — Covent Garden at Daybreak— 
P. D. Q. — Glimpse at Gladstone — Homeward Bound. 

Liverpool, September, 1880. 
As my first letter of the present series was written from 
Liverpool, and as I have now completed my intended circuit. 
I will close the correspondence from the same place. Since 
landing here in July, I have traveled over six thousand miles 
in England, France, Spain and Africa. From this fact alone 
I should have credit for industry if for nothing else. 

I had intended to spend in Paris the few remaining days 
of my allotted time, but, when I returned, I found the air of 
Paris damp and chilly, especially so when compared with the 
balmy atmosphere of Spain. Neuralgia seemed to be epidemic 



Garden OF THE Tqillekies. 255 

There were not hip-bath tubs enough in our hotel to accom- 
modate the guests. After a week of suffering I resolved to 
leave for I^ondon, but, before bidding adieu to the gay capital, 
I paid another visit to the panorama in the garden of the 
Tuilleries. To persons desiring to know how the men of 
French history during the past century looked when in their 
glory, this panorama is very suggestive. The illusion is so 
lifelike that we are apt to take the first group that catches our 
eye to be a party of spectators like ourselves, but we soon dis- 
cover they are motionless figures, skillfully painted from the 
best portraits. We see Napoleon and his brave Marshals just 
as they looked when the great Captain made his triumphant 
entry into Paris after the' termination of his most glorious 
camgaign The celebrated characters of the Revolution of '93 
— Robespierre, Danton, Murat, Charlotte Corday, lyOuisXVI.,, 
Marie Antoinette and the poor little Dauphin — are represented 
in some of the most tragic scenes of that terrible period. 

Victor Hugo, with folded arms, is leaning against the base 
of a column ; Gambetta is just taking le' ve of his friends before 
making his perilous balloon ascension ; Marshal Ney looks like 
an old lion ; Charles X. like a young ass ; L,ouis Philipe poses- 
like a demagogue ; lyouis XVIII. looks like an overgrown 
baby in soldiers' clothes ; Dumas might pass for one of Carn- 
cross & Dixey's minstrels about propounding a conundrum ; 
I^esseps looks as Mr. Blaine will look ten years hence ; Car^ 
not looks like William Rhoads, of Newtown, ten years ago ; 
Grevy might be taken for lawyer Dick White, of Philadelphia 
and George Sand presents a picture not unlike Geoff. Denis in 
a lady's dress, but not as good looking. The list is too long 
to be repeated in the short confines of a letter. Rochefort is 
not only represented in the gallery, but his photograph is ex- 
hibited in all the shop windows. If he would cut his hair he 
might pass for Judge Broomall. 

Although they are on the eve of one of the most import- 
ant elections ever held in France, politics is in a very lethargic 
condition. The fate of the Republic undoubtedly depends 
upon the approaching contest. The motto inscribed upon the 
banners of the Republicans is " Vainer e ou Mourir," yet the 
excitement is not half as great as at one of our tamest Presi- 
dential campaigns. All parties are united against the Repub- 
lic, but the admitted fact that it has saved France has given 
it a very strong hold upon the French heart. I believe the 
French people are growing weary of political excitement and 
intend to stand by the Government in the impending struggle. 
France has changed her form of government no less than 
thirteen times during the past hundred years. She has tried 
hereditary Monarchy, citizen kings, the Convention, the 



2^6 Back to London^ 

Directory, the Red Republic, Parliamentary governrdent, tbe 
-Empire and the Republic, and the question now to be submit- 
ted to the people is, not shall the Monarchy or "the Empire be 
restored, but shall the Republic be abolished ? The wonder- 
ful administrative ability of the French people in the hour of 
peril has heretofore been ijufl&cient to save the nation from 
anarchy, and I believe, from what I have seen and heard, the 
result of the coming contest will be the overwhelming defeat 
of the enemies of the Republic. Notts Verrons. 

We will now descend from the fate of the Nation to the 
cabmen of Paris. The rule of the road requires pedestrians to 
look out for themselves. A few days ago a j^oung American 
was leisurely walking up Place Vendome ; the asphaltum 
pavement was wet and slippery ; a cabman came* up on a full 
run and, without a word of warning, ran his horse against the 
back of the promenader. Everybody expected to see the 
young man knocked down, but, to the surprise of all, he 
wheeled suddenly around and with his fist struck the horse a 
powerful blow under the left ear knocking him sprawling, head, 
tail, feet and rump, in a heap in the street. The horse slid 
upon the smooth pavement fully fifteen feet before he seemed 
to realize what had happened. It was as much as the cabman 
could do to keep his seat. The young man neither looked to 
the right nor left and was soon lost in the crowd. The by- 
standers helped the fallen horse to his feet and laughed at the 
cabman whose bewildered look only made the scene more 
ludicrous. 

To vary my route home I took a ticket from Paris to I^on- 
don by the Calais and Dover tl-ain. By this line the time 
between the two cities is only about nine hours. I took a look 
at Amiens from the cars but was not sufficiently prepossessed 
with the place to give it a day. Calais is a sleepy old town, 
not worth an hour of a traveler's precious time. We crossed 
the Channel on a very smooth sea in less than one hour. The 
sudden change from France to England seemed magical. We 
found an almost instantaneous change of language, habits and 
manners ; an hour before we were in a country where no Eng- 
lish was spoken and all accounts were kept in francs and 
centimes ; we were now in a country where no French was 
spoken and ever5'thing was counted in pounds, shillings and 
pence, and yet the shores of the two nations were no farther 
apart than the cities of Philadelphia and Chester. Between 
Cadiz and Tangier, only six hours apart, we were i-truck with 
a more radical change in civilization, religion, dress and 
manners. 

From Dover-^whose situation and surroundings are most 
charming — ^to London, we pass through the fertile fields of 



Fair Play. 257 

Kent. The grass is of the richest green ; great flocks of sheep, 
fat and white, are grazing and reposing in the well-watered 
meadows. Fine old oak trees line the banks of rivulets and 
meandering streams. The roadway from Dover to the suburbs 
of lyondon reminds one of some of Shakespeare's and Milton's 
descriptions of rural England in the olden time. 

I found Lrondon enveloped in a dense fog. I tried to take 
a walk up the Strand but could not see across the street. The 
dome of St. Paul's looked like a fairy castle floating over the 
cit}^ ; gas was burning in the streets and stores until after 
II A. M., when the fog suddenly lifted and glorious old Lon- 
don appeared as if by magic. 

I have never grown weary of lyOndon. I like its people, 
its modes of life, its amusements and its business habits and 
customs. The English people are said to be unsociable to 
strangers, but I have never found them so. Amusement in 
London never forces itself upon you ; you must seek it, and 
to those who desire a little fun it is not hard to find. I spent 
almost the entire Sunday in Hyde Park and saw a great many 
amusing sights illustrative of London life and character. The 
following little incident will exemplify the fondness of every 
true Briton for fair play : 

There is a little lake in the park where dogs are permitted 
to swim and play. Upon coming out of the water the dogs 
had a misunderstanding, commencing with a growl and ending 
in a free fight. As the battle became general, three dogs jumped 
upon one that lay by a seat occupied by a well-dressed gentle- 
man reading the Times. He at once jumped up and seized 
two of the three by their collars and held them till the other 
two had fought it out. When the contest was over, a bystander 
remarked that the dirty and wet dogs he was holding had ruined 
his trousers. " You are quite right, sir," said the gentleman, 
"but the poor brute had to have fair play, you know." 

I saw and heard, in Hyde Park, public exhibitions of free 
speech which would not be permitted in any city in America. 
There is now a great strike by the stevedores and dock hands 
of London. The strikers march through the streets with their 
banners and, by concert, meet in the Park to discuss their 
grievances. 

As the strikers moved through the crowded streets, Her 
Majesty's policemen cleared the way and marched i;n two lines, 
about ten yards apart, on each side of the procession. By a 
custom so old, as the lawyers say, "that the memory of man 
runneth not to the contrary," Hyde Park is a spot sacred to 
free speech. All parties may hold meetings there and say just 
what they please so long as they refrain from overt acts of trea- 
son or breach of the peace. In one place we see a crowd listening 



258 Fe<:ee Speech. 

to and applauding some half crazy infidel pouring out a 
tirade of abuse and blasphem}' against Christianity. In an- 
other place some broken down and seedy old actor will be 
reciting scenes from Shakespeare, after which he passes around 
his hat. In another spot, in bad English and most violent 
gesticulation, we see a half starved socialist cursing the govern- 
ment and counseling all sorts of raids upon the rich for the 
general benefit of the poor. Even the Queen, Prince Albert, 
and the little princes do not escape vulgar denunciations. All 
the banners were blood-red, the inscriptions indicating the 
sentiments of the societies carrying them, such as "Social 
Democrats of Eondon ; " "By Heavens, our rights are worth 
fighting for ; " " The wages of sin is death — -the wages of labor 
slow but sure starvation," etc. 

The speakers were bright, intelligent fellows, who evidently 
liv^e by their wits. Their ideas were good and well put to- 
gether but the "H" was thrown about in great confusion. 
One of the speakers seemed to be a great favorite, as he was 
repeatedly called for b}"- the crowd and at last appeared amid 
great applause upon the rostrum. He had white cotton gloves 
on his great big hands and opened his speech by propounding 
the following conundrum : "You see, my friends, I wear white 
cotton gloves ; they are of my own make. Do any of you know 
why old maids wear cotton gloves ? Because they don't like 
kids. Now I do like kids. That's what I'm here for to-day. 
I've got four poor little kids at home without milk to drink or 
bread to eat. ' ' And so he went on for an hour ver}^ eloquently 
setting forth the struggles of the poor workingman in Eondon 
to support his wife and kids. If he had been an educated man 
he would, perhaps, have been one of the world's great orators. 
The sympathy of the masses is clearly in favor of the strikers. 

There is no better place to see displays of wealth and 
beauty than Hyde Park Corner on a Sunday afternoon. It is 
a free exhibition of the finest horses and handsomest women 
of the city. Ostensibly they come for air and exercise, but 
really only to show themselves, their horses, carriages, ser- 
vants and dogs. 

I arose at 6 A. M. on Saturday morning to seethe Covent 
Garden fruit and vegetable market. The streets for many 
squares were packed with all sorts of carts, wagons and bar- 
rows. Eittle farmers' boys and girls, dressed in their Sunday 
clothes, sat in the carts almost covered with carrots, beets, 
cabbages, and cauliflowers. The police are kept busy settling 
conflicting claims to portions of the street and in keeping the 
teams in line. One would suppose vegetables enough were 
vomited into Eondon to glut the market ; but I am told that 



Hotel Waiters. 259 

it will all be sold before noon and be devoured by Monday 
morning. 

All the hotels are now full of returning travelers. At 
Liverpool no rooms can be had without telegraphing a day or 
two ahead. I suppose that most travelers have noticed the 
fact that all the hotel waiters in England are German boys. 
They are the sons of tradesmen in Germany spending a few 
months in England at very low wages for the purpose of learn- 
ing the language. Some of them serve for their board and, in 
the restaurants where it is customary to give the waiters small 
fees, they pay as much as two shillings a day for the privilege 
of waiting on the guests. One of these young fellows was the 
subject of a rather cruel joke by an American gentleman a few 
days ago. The gentleman ordered his breakfast, P. D. Q. 
' ' Vat means dat ? ' ' said the waiter. The gentleman informed 
him that the expression was o, polite way of requesting imme- 
diate attention to the order ; in other words, he said it meant 
as quick as possible. "Oh," said Dutchey, " I vill remember 
dat. ' ' His next call was from a fidgety old maid, who requested 
the waiter to bring her coffee " as quick as possible." "Yes, 
madam," he said, " P D. Q." An explosion of indignation 
at the supposed familiarity followed, which after due explana- 
tion ended in a hearty laugh at his expense, but the poor fel- 
low had to leave the hotel to escape the jeers and twits of his 
fellow servants who from that time called him bv no other name 
than P. D Q. 

Mr. Gladstone, wife and flunky put up at our hotel, the 
Charing Cross, on his way to Paris. I saw him as he left the 
hotel for his compartment in the cars. While he carries his 
age very well, I should say from his appearance it is about 
time for him to retire from active politics. He is a very plain 
looking man. He left the hotel alone, his wife- and flunky 
attending to all the details of the journey. The flunky put on 
some airs. 

My route from London to Liverp'/ol was through Derby 
and Manchester. The country looks very beautiful and fresh. 
The chief charm of England and Ireland is its deep, refreshing 
and almost perpetual green. 

I went this morning to the ofl&ce of the steamboat com- 
pany to see that my baggage was safe and take a glance at 
the passenger list. I found some of my old shipmates return- 
ing home. I also noticed the names of Chauncey M. Depew, 
Senator John Sherman, Hon. George H. Bates, late Commis- 
sioner to Berlin, General Nagle, and other celebrated Ameri- 
cans booked as passengers. 



26o^ New York to Havre,, 



LVi 

The Start — The Ship— The Passengers-IvOve, Romance. 
AND Seasickness — Politics— A Lost Leaf prom a La- 
dy's Diary — Guels, Vultures and Men — A Storm and 
Accident — -Unlucky Thirteen— Reflections on Ships ^ 
Sailors and Seas — The Captain's Dinner. 

Paris, February, 1892, 
This is my tenth voyage across the Atlantic and the first 
one I have made in the winter. During the first five days the 
sea was smooth and the weather good. There was but little 
seasickness and no dinner at which the table was not reason- 
ably fiilL We left Chester at noon, on the 12th, embarked 
about 5 P. M., and sailed at 4.30 A. M. on the 13th. We 
►arrived here on the 23d about 4P.M. So it will be apparent that 
instead of seven, we have been ten days making the journey. 
Upon entering the ship our hearts were gladdened by the 
receipt of two telegrams and several letters from kind and 
considerate friends, wishing us 6mi voyage. These little 
courtesies are exceedingly pleasant. They do not cost much 
but they refresh the soul like water the thirsty lip. We feel 
that the friends who take the trouble to encourage our parting 
will as kindly greet our return, It must be a dry heart that 
leaves no loved ones behind, and,, to feel that the great ocean 
will soon roll between us and the loved ones we are leaving 
is apt to chill even the warmest heart. But distance often 
lends enchantment to the view, so absence sharpens the appetite 
of love. 

'Tis sweet to greet the friends we meet ; 
'Tis sweeter yet to meet again 
Ttie friends we've met. 

We have chosen for this voyage the ship " La Norman- 
die," of the French line, running directly from New York to 
Havre. The distance is about 3175 miles, several hundred 
miles greater than that between New York and Liverpool, 
La Normandie is not a fast ship, but she is steady and staunch. 
I have never sailed upon one that behaved better in bad 
weather. As we judge a lady by her conduct under trying 
circumstances, so we should approve a ship by her behavior 
in a storm. La Normandie is 480 feet long by 50 feet beam. 
She sets deep in the water. She has four decks and can carry 
over 1000 passengers. Her first-class saloon will comfortably 
seat 130 at meals. We have eighty first-class passengers 
on this voj^age, among them our esteemed fellow-citizen 
Samuel A. Crozer, Esq., now talked of as a possible candidate 



PouTics AT Sea. 261 



for Congress from our district. Mr. Crozer's son Edward, 
accompanied by liis charming bride, are also passengers, about 
to spend their honeymoon in the enjoyment of foreign travel. 
Luckily for the young and manly husband his wife is a good 
sailor as well as a sensible woman, I can conceive of nothino- 
more disgusting or trying to a young bride than a sea-sick 
husband. Sea-sickness not only destroys the romance of 
love, but it too rudely exposes the frailties of poor human 
nature. Even the lustre of a crown would lose its brilliancy 
upon the head of a sea-sick king. Fancj^ the Emperor^ Wil- 
liam vomiting over the gunwale, or Queen Victoria spewing 
over her royal robes. 

Mr. S. A. Crozer is a first-class sailor. He has crossed the 
ocean oftener than any other man in Delaware county. He 
reads French quite freely and speaks it with fluency enough to 
make himself perfectly understood. Hens a man of broad and 
liberal views and would, undoubtedly, make a first-class Con- 
gressman. Although I left home almost as much to escape 
the entanglements of politics as for the benefit, of my health, 
yet I could not resist the temptation to tamper just a little in 
Delaware county politics. I had heard, just before leaving 
home, that the iett-handed friends of " Our Jack" were look- 
ing for a candidate and had their eyes upon Mr. Crozer, I 
approached him in the most delicate manner upon the subject,. 
Caesar, when he pushed away the crown ; Richard III, when 
he pleaded the scruples of his conscience, or even Mr. Blaine 
when he wrote his last letter, were not more non-committal. 
He candidly admitted that he had been spoken to and only 
entertained the subject on one consideration. As he seemed 
to desire my opinion 1 candidly gave it, but do not propose to 
publish it just yet. 

As the usual time for recovery from sea-sickness approach- 
ed and the usual means of becoming agreeable had been 
practiced, the usual results were rapidly developed. The boys 
began to drink, smoke and gamble, the maids began to spread 
the nets of love, and the older and more experienced girls 
began to flirt, while the older boys of the smoking room 
amused their friends with many a well-told story. Among, 
the stories was the following : 

The chief steward while cleaning up the ladies' waiting 
room, found upon the table a leaf from the journal of a young 
woman. It read as follows : — First day out 400 passengers; 
men stupid ; feel sea-sick ; wish I had stayed home. Second 
day out — Feel better ; gentlemen more sociable ; made the 
acquaintance of a real nice fellow ; says he loves me ; glad I 
came. Third day out — Nice young man proposed ; I refused 
till Pa had time to find out who he is ; he grew desperate ; 



262 Gulls* 



showed me a cigar box full of dynamite ; threatened to blow 
up the ship if I did not accept him at once ; awful. Fourth 
day out — I am happy ; I have saved the lives of 400 people. 

The little story illustrates the usual course of love-making 
and flirting upon a ship. It can, to a certain extent, be ex- 
cused in very young people, but on a ship the disease seizes 
all the old maids and Jina^^ended matrons who, in their madness, 
" play such fantastic tricks as make the angels weep." It is 
difficult to decide which is the worst flirting place, a ship or a 
camp meeting. 

A flock of sea gulls followed our ship from Sandy Hook 
to Havre. At least the sailors said so, but I noticed they 
changed their size and color three times. At first they were 
snowy white, then smaller and dark brown ; as we approached 
France they became much larger and more pigeon-colored. 
There was not however a day, no matter how stormy, that a 
few gulls were not seen hovering over and following the ship. 
The seamen say they follow the ship because they love the 
sailors ; but in this the sailors are undoubtedly gulled by the 
gulls. They follow us at sea very much as some people gull 
us on shore, to get all they can from us and forsake us when 
we can give them no more, or when they can steal no more 
from us. I have no dout but that they think that Providence 
has provided the several ships that cross the ocean especially 
to feed the gulls ; just as the fable says the vultures, when 
they see marching armies on the battlefieldsof the world, sup- 
pose the gods are preparing food for them, and therefore they 
praise the gods. There is not much difference after all between 
gulls, vultures and men. 

After the fourth day out the sea became angry and bois- 
terous, the winds were contrary and the weather disagreeable. 
We had to head the ship to the wind and barely held our own 
for five hours. The ship dipped her nose now and then into 
the base of a mountainous wave which swept her decks from 
stem to stern with three or four feet of water. At one time a 
heavy sea struck the ship under her windward belly and threw 
her upon her beatn end with the saloon deck standing at an 
angle of about forty-five degrees. The waiters in the saloon, 
as well as the passengers, were dashed from one side to the 
other. There is scarcely a winter passage of the Atlantic in 
which there are not some bruised or broken limbs, sprained 
joints or cracked skulls. This time it was my turn to be hurt. 
I was hurled, like a babe in the hands of an enraged giant, 
fully forty feet from one side of the saloon to the other, strik- 
ing my shoulder and head with great force against the iron 
frame of one of the stationary chairs. My scalp was cut to the 
skull, my left thumb nearly torn from its socket, and my right 



Sunday at Sea. 263 



shoulder was very much bruised. I would not take the risk 
of another such a fall for the ship with all she contained. The 
chances would be one hundred to one that neither the ship nor 
her treasure would be of any value to me. A French gentle- 
man showed me a bad wound on his head which he had 
received some two months ago on " lya Champagne. ' ' He was 
in the hospital five weeks and came near losing his life from 
just such a fall. My wounds soon healed. In a few hours I 
recovered from the shock and was on deck again. The next 
day I learned the cause of all the trouble. I had sat at the 
table with thirteen. Of all the eighty saloon passengers only 
thirteen were at table that day . 

When thirteen 'rounri n table meet, 
Please make at once a vacant seat 
Or quickly add another Irieud 
Before {jrim death the I'eastshall end ; 
For this thirteen will never meet 
Around a, festive board to eat, 

• I have, in my short life, sailed upon thirty-two ocean 
steamers, upon each of which I have spent from two to fifteen 
days. I have been in English, American, Spanish, Italian, 
Norwegian, German and French vessels. I have closely ob- 
served human life upon them all, and I feel that I could now 
deliver a very interesting lecture upon my friend Congressman 
Robinson's favorite subject — "Ships, Sailors and Seas." I 
have found the toil of the sailor, the care of the captain, and 
the pains and pleasures of the passengers about the same the 
world over. With all the luxury of ship life, good weather 
and good health ; with tranquil seas and jovial companians,, 
but few can endure ten days' confinement upon the finest ship 
without a sense of weariness and anxious longing for the libertj^ 
of dry land. How tedious and heavy must the hours pass to 
the poor prisoner of a month, a 3^ear, or a life in a dungeon. 
It is only by such comparisons we can fully realize the sad 
condition of a man buried, as it were, in a prison. 

Our second Sunday at sea was passed in true French style 
by a big dinner and a treat from the captain to chaixipagne all 
round. On this line all ordinary wines are free, but if you. 
want champagne for dinner you must pay for it. In addition 
to champagne, the captain presented each passenger at table 
with a fancy costume in tissue paper, bedizened with silver 
stars and gilded with gold. Mr. Crozer wore the helmet 
of Jove ; my cut head was decorated by the crown of Neptune. 
Juno, Minerva, Diana, lyiberty, Terpsichore, Cupid, Venus 
and all the catalogue of the gods and goddesses of mythology 
were represented. In a word, we all became children again, 
for a happy hour. A stranger, entering suddenly upon the 
scene, would suppose himself a spectator to a feast of Deities 
sipping nectar around the table of the gods. 



264 . National Extravagance. 



On the 2ist inst., at 4 A. M., we passed the Scilly Is- 
lands, soon after we saw Lizard Point and in a short time we got 
our first sight of France. We had to sleep on the ship and 
next morning landed and in four hours by rail we were in 
Paris. 



LVII. 



Paris to Bordeaux — The Blessings of National Extrav- 
agance — Paris Retrograding — High Prices — Sun of 
AusTERLiTz — Orleans — ^Jeanne D'Arc — Antiquity of 
THE Town— Cathedral— Hotel de Ville— Bordeaux 
— Fickle Fame in France — Incidents in the History 
OP Bordeaux — St. Michael's Mummies. 

Bordeaux, February, 1892. 
Just before leaving Paris, I heard a very interesting dis- 
cussion between two Frenchmen in a cafe, upon what we would 
call " National extravagance." To my surprise, the one who 
advocated a lavish expenditure of public money seemed to 
have the best of the argument. He contended that a nation's 
wealth did not consist in the treasure it hoarded, but in the 
results of a proper expenditure of public money. He express- 
ed surprise that the Americans should complain because they 
were producing more than they could consume. After a 
certain amount of food, clothing, and materials for the neces- 
saries of life, all the rest is surplus and represents the nation's 
wealth. The nation receives no benefit from hoarding its 
surplus. It should be spent in the erection of public works, 
forts, ships ol war, army and navy supplies, docks and works 
of art. In this way over-production is equalized, laborers, 
mechanics, artists and manufacturers are taken from the farm, 
the factory and the workshop, and are transferred to the class 
of consumers and' a market is made for the surplus of goods. 
In this way the world has produced all its great works from 
the Pyramids to St. Peters at Rome, none of which would 
have been constructed if the people who built 1 hem had hoard- 
ed instead of spent their surplus. So the question is settled, 
and let us hear no more about Republican extravagance in 
spending our surplus, to which our Democratic friends are so 
fond of referring. 

I have so often attempted to describe Paris that I will say 
but little more about it. We found it the same gay and happy 
place for the young and rich, and the same sad and sorrowful 
city for the poor and old that it has always been. While I 



Sun of Austerlitz. . 265 



still regard it as the most beautiful city in the world, it is cer- 
tainly deteriorating every year. It is no more like the Paris 
of Napoleon III, than a matron of forty, however pretty she 
may have once been, is like a maid of sixteen. The wrinkles 
of age cannot be concealed, the marks of dissipation are ap- 
parent, and in spite of the skill of her coiffeur, the gray hairs 
will appear. 

I may safely assert that there is now no city in the world 
where the traveler pays more and gets less fo!' his money. 
The prices of all the necessaries of life have advanced with 
great rapidity since the Franco- Prussian war. Gas is three 
times as high as in America, while coal and coal oil are 
luxuries only enjoyed by the rich. The chambers of the best 
hotels are lighted by candles at a franc each, and if we want 
a lamp we will be charged two francs more. The sleeping 
rooms are heated by wood fires composed of a lew sticks for 
which we pay three francs for a basketful, and have the room 
not half warmed. When a tree is cut down in any part of 
France every twig is carefully bound up in small bundles like 
sheaves of wheat and sold for kindling wood. Not a chip is 
wasted. The compartments in the railway coaches are heated 
by tin feet-warmers. Two are placed in the compartment and 
contain about five gallons each of boiling water. They will 
keep the compartment and eight passengers comfortable for 
four hours. 

We left Paris for Orleans on the 26th. On the morning 
of our departure we saw what the French people call the "Sun 
of iVusterlitz," so called from the great battefield on which 
Napoleon won one of his most brilliant victories. It is said 
that at the critical moment in the struggle a peculiar fog hid 
the French forces until they were in position to strike a fatal 
blow, when suddenly the sun, bloody red, broke through 
the fog so that the French forces on the hill could plainly see 
the enemy in the lower ground without the enemy being able 
to see the French soldiers. When the fog vanished the victory 
was won and the French soldiers with one' accord shouted 
aloud, " Voila le soleil d' Aiisterlitz P' (Behold the sun of 
Austerlitz). On the morning of our departure the sun present- 
ed the same appearance as it hung in the heavens like a great 
red ball of fire. We could look at it without inconvenience 
with the naked eye. The tall buildings, towers and church 
spires could be diml}' seen like spectres keeping watch over a , 
dead city. An ordinary sized building could not be seen fifty 
feet away. The whole city presented a weird, strange and 
dreamlike appearance. After a few minutes the spectacle 
melted away and the unearthly yellow tint was succeeded by 
bright and natural solar rays. 



266 Jeanne d'Arc. 

On our way to Orleans we were struck by the advanced 
state of spring vegetables. While the latitude of Orleans is 
far north of that of Philadelphia, yet the spring is much more 
advanced. The fields are green, the spring plowing is done. 
Trees are in blossom and peasant women in bare heads and in 
some instances, I am sorry to say, in bare feet and legs, are 
Vv^orking in the fields. The French peasantry are the most in- 
dustrious and saving people in the world. They cultivate 
little patches of ground with the greatest care and bring from 
the earth all it can possibly yield. 

We made the acquaintance, on the train, of a French 
gentleman from Estampes, just from Australia. We were 
surprised to learn that the people of that country are suffering 
from a very severe drought. He says common drinking water 
was selling at six cents a gallon. Such droughts, he says, are 
quite common. In his opinion Australia has about reached its 
greatest prosperit5^ its great drawback being a scarcity of 
water. 

We spent a day at Orleans and were both amused and in- 
structed in riding over the city and visiting its several places 
of interest. It is not visited much by tourists, but is quite a 
charming old city But little English is spoken by its inhab- 
itants. Its hotels, with one or two exceptions, are very . 
primitive in all their appointments. The floors are made of 
tile, the windows are seldom shut and the dining rooms and 
bed chambers are without heat. Frosts are very rare, but 
heavy woolen clothing is a necessity, to preserve our natural 
heat rather than to depend upon artificial warmth for comfort. 

Every shoolboy is familiar with the story of Jeanne 
d'Arc and the siege of Orleans in 1429. The general plan 
of the streets in the old part of the city is to-day very much 
the same as then. The city walls have been removed but 
the places where the gates stood are still known. The spot 
where Jeanne d'Arc made her successful assault at the 
bridge is now marked by a beautiful bronze statue of the 
heroine. The house in which she lodged is still standing and 
the armor she wore is said to be still preserved. This, how- 
ever, I very much doubt 

To say the least, the story of the Maid of Orleans, is a 
most interesting and romantic one. The city is full of statues 
set up to her memory, and the walls of nearly all of the public 
buildings are dxorated with life-size portraits and paintings 
representing different scenes in her history from the time she 
was a little peasant girl to the day she was burned at Rouen, 
by the English, as a witch. All these statues and paintings 
make her a frail, fair and beautiful young girl, just budding 
into womanhood. All history however agrees that she wore 



Orleans, 267 

strong iron mail, wielded a heav}^ sword and rode astride a 
^rge and fiery steed. I have no doubt but that one-half of 
the miraculous power attributed to her was the creation of the 
superstitious notions of the times in which she lived. She 
was, perhaps, a strong-minded, raw-boned and intelligent 
woman, who took advantage of the superstitions of her age to 
better enforce her influence over 1A12 king and his courtiers. 
Just such a leader as Mrs. George Sand would have made 
under similar circumstances. 

The city of Orleans was known to the Romans and was an 
important town in the days of Caesar. By the brave resistance 
of its citizens Attila, the Hun, was forced to raise the siege he 
laid around it, although he had sworn to take and dsstroy it. 
Its situation is well chosen on a beautiful bend of the river 
lyoire, near its confluence with the I^oiret. Its places of interest 
are in the old crooked and narrow streets. The new part is 
just like nearly all modern cities of Europe and America. 
There are very few brick buildings in the new part, but several 
in the older portions. 

The Cathedral is noted as one of the finest in France. Its 
foundations were laid in 330, A. D. It has been several times 
destroyed but has always arisen from its ruin more and more 
beautiful. Henry IV ordered it rebuilt as it now stands. It 
occupies a whole square and was not finished until 1790. It 
has two towers like Notre Dame, at Paris, but they are larger 
and higher. It is certainly a very noble architectural struc- 
ture and inspires a peculiar feeling of grandeur in the beholder, 
especially if he stands in the street a hundred yards from the 
left angle and takes in the whole building at one view. 

The Hotel de Ville is built of brick, in the Flemish style, 
and presents a very pretty appearance. It was formerly a 
royal palace and was occupied as such by Charles IX, Henry 
III and Henry IV. Queen Catherine de Medices also lived in 
it, and also the unfortunate Mary Stuart. It was first con- 
verted into a City Hall in 1790. 

One full day, with a carriage and good coachman, is suf- 
ficient to see everything of interest in the place. Of course the 
traveler may, if he has the time, spend a week around Orleans 
and find amusement for every day. He could spend a da}^ in 
the Museums alone. We gave the principal one an hour. 

The next city at which we rested two days, was Bordeaux, 
one of the most important seaports of France. It is charmingly 
situated on a grand semi-circle formed by a three-mile bend 
in the river Garonne. It has 250,000 inhabitants, is clean, 
regular and well-paved. The old city must have been very 
small as it has almost entirely disappeared. The present city 
will compare favorably with any city of its size in France, or 



268 Bordeaux. 

perhaps in Europe. The river is, I should say, about five 
hundred yards wide and is sixty feet deep in, front of the city.^ 
The docks are nearly equal to those of L/iverpool. There are 
always thousands of ships from all parts of the world in these 
docks, making them a very busy and interesting place. The 
principal theatre is a splendid classic edifice with tall and 
graceful Corinthian columns in front. It was built in 1755. 

The French are very fickle in their attachments and 
tastes. They ai^e constantly removing monuments and erasing 
inscriptions commemorative of the great deeds of former favor- 
ites. During the last empire Louis Napoleon made a .great 
speech in Bordeaux, in which he used the celebrated words, 
" ly' Empire, c' est la paix." (The Empire is Peace). The 
people of the city erected a grand monument to the Emperor 
and inscribed upon it, in letters of gold, the above extract 
from his speech. After the fall of the empire they tore down 
the monument. 

There are other very interesting buildings in the city, but 
they are of comparatively modern construction and will be 
objects of interest for the letters of some traveler a thousand 
years from now. 

The old city gates are interesting as landmarks, by which 
we find the location of the old city walls, and give us a fair 
idea of its comparatively small size. The old city was the 
scene of many a bloody struggle between the English and 
French. Edward the Black Prince held his brilliant court 
here for many years. His son Richard, of Bordeaux, was 
born here. It will be remembered by many of my older read- 
ers that the Germans captured the place in 1870. They were 
driven out but again re-took it and held it till peace was made. 
I would like to say more about Bordeaux but my time is 
limited . I would like to speak of the old church of St. Michael , 
with its bell tower three hundred and fifty-four feet high, and 
of the many dried up mummies fantastically arranged in its 
vaults. There is something in the soil which preserves the 
bodies of the dead. The ancient citizens attributed it to the 
miraculous influence of St. Michael, but they found cats, dogs 
and even dead serpents were equally petrified when buried 
there. We leave here to-night for Marseilles, a twelve-hours' 
ride by the fastest express train. 



Bordeaux to Marseilles. 269 



LVIII. 

Bordeaux to Marselles^ — Battlefield of Poitiers — 
Toulouse — Marseilles Once More — Sub-Tropical Cli- 
mate — Its World-Renowned Harbor — Marseilles to 
Algiers — A French Punster — Game in Africa Disap- 
pearing Before the BREEtn-IyOADER — Algeirs in 1830 
—Homely Women — Scorpions — Algiers to Tunis — 
Five Hundred Miles Through the Atlas Mountains 

— SETIF — WoiSTDERFUL CONSTANTINE — ROMAN RuiNS — 

Shepherds Watching Their Flocks by Night — The 
Bible and the Koran. 

Tunis, March, 1892. 

We went direct from Bordeaux to Marseilles, a distance 
of about five hundred miles. Between Tours and Bordeaux 
we passed over the battlefield of Poitiers, where Charles Mar- 
tel, in the eighth century, at the head of as many Christian 
soldiers as he could collect under the banner of Christ and his 
country, met and defeated the Moorish hosts and forever 
checked the advance of Mohammedanism and the corrupt in- 
fluences of the harem into the west of Europe. It was the 
commencement»ofaseriesof bloody battles which finally drove 
the Moors from Europe. 

It was also at Poitiers that Edward the Black Prince de- 
feated John the Good in 1356, and left eleven thousand of his 
soldiers dead upon the field. Between Bordeaux and Marseil- 
les we passed through the very ancient city of Toulouse with a 
population, at this time, of 150,000. It is very beautifully 
situated upon the river Garonne. If our time had not been, 
limited we could have spent several days at different places 
between Bordeaux and Marseilles. 

Marseilles looked even more attractive than when I saw 
it last in 1889. It was then too warm to enjoy the walks and 
drives in and around the city. She is sheltered from the north 
winds by a semi-circle of high, rocky Jiills, which the rays of 
the winter sun strike at right angles and engender a most de- 
licious warmth. The city looks out southward to the sea. In 
midwinter it has a climate as warm as that of Bermuda. The 
temperature is never below fifty. Sub-tropical fruits and 
flowers remain out all winter. Roses are now in full bloom. 
There is, as far as I can judge from appearances, but one ob- 
jection to Marseilles as a permanent dwelling place and that is 
its liability to fevers and cholera in the summer. These dis- 
eases are supposed to result from the absence of tides in the 



270 Marseilles. 

Mediterranean. The refuse of the city for two thousand years 
has been carried into its docks and when an attempt is made 
to remove this accumulated filth by artificial means, the germs 
of disease are set free and typhoid is sure to follow. 

The new drive along the bluff and rocky shore on the 
southeast of the. city is most charming. It extends for several 
miles over a splendid road cut into and along the edge of pre- 
cipitous rocks which are studded with villas, private palaces, 
fashionable cafes and gay restaurants. The drive ends at the 
entrance to the Prado, a fine p*ark decorated by sub-tropical 
trees, plants, flowers, &c. A drive through the Prado brings 
us back to the city, by another street, to a different part of the 
town. 

The harbor of Marseilles is world-renowned. It has been 
improved and enlarged by enormous works of masonry run- 
ning out into the sea, as a breakwater when the southern winds 
make the waters angry. There are thousands of ships of all 
nations lying at anchor in the harbor. To satisfactorily visit, 
the docks a carriage and good driver ought to be secured who 
will take you an hour among these interesting works. I would 
like to say more of Marseilles, but as I can only give one 
letter a week, I must leave many interesting subjects untouch- 
ed. After spending one day at Marseilles we embarked for 
Algiers, about four hundred and fifty miles southwestwardly, 
and arrived there in about twenty-eight hours by a very com- 
fortable and fast ship. We made the acquaintance of a French 
gentleman on the ship who was quite a wit as well as a punster. 
He asked us where we landed in France. We told him at I^a 
Havre. " O !" said he, " You ought to have landed at Brest, 
then you would have come from the bo3om of the ocean into 
\h^ breast oi France." The soup at dinner was rather thin. 
Our friend called attention to it by giving my wife a recipe for 
a very delicate French soup. Here it is : " Take one quart 
of water, boil it down to one pint to make it strong — dip the 
wing of a chicken into it three times — season to taste. ' ' Some 
of the passengers were speaking of the great inundations in 
Spain. " Can you tell me," said he, " why there are no in- 
undations in France ?" .We all gave it up. " Because," said 
he, " water in France is always 1' eau." (Pronounced lovS) 
/' eaii being the French word for "water." He was a very 
bright and intelligent fellow but, like most of his kind, he was 
fully aware of it and laughed a little too much at his own 
jokes. 

Algiers is a very delightful city ; the climate is all that 
can be desired. For the last thirteen years the temperature 
has not been below fifty, nor above eighty degrees at any place 
fifty feet above the sea. Including the suburbs of St. Eugene, 



Algiers. 271 

El Bias, and Mustapha, outside of the walls, it has a popula- 
tion of 80,000. Her situation is very charming. A spur of 
the Atlas Mountains comes down to the sea which here makes 
a regular bend forming the harbor. The city sits with her 
back reposing upon the mountains, her head overlooking the 
crown of the hills while her feet are bathed by the sea. To 
carry out the metaphor, I might say, she is arrayed in white 
(washed^ robes, for every building in the city is white. There 
is njt a brick building in the place. The hilly streets are 
ascended by zigzag terraces beautifully and substantially built. 
The new part of the city looks like Paris and other continental 
towns. The old Moorish part is very curious ; the streets are 
narrow and winding, the shops small, and the whole quarter 
is crowded with Arabs and Moors in their peculiar costumes. 
The language of the city, especially in the old part, is a babel 
of confusion, Turkish, Arabian, Spanish, Moorish and French. 
The place is much more sub-tropical than Marseilles. Oranges, 
lemons, bananas, palms, and all the catalogue of roses and 
flowers are seen growing here. 

Game, that was once so plentiful here, has been mostly 
destroyed or driven further into the interior by English and 
French sportsmen with their breech-loading guns and repeat- 
ing rifles. Every day or two, however, a wild boar is shot 
and brought into the town. Now and then a lion or panther 
is killed, but this is now very rare. Small game, such as 
partridges, and a small bird rather less than our robin, are still 
about as plentiful as quail in Virginia. A sportsman must have 
very good luck to bag twenty-five quail in a day. Some 
claim to have shot as many as sixty in a day, but from my 
own experience, I take such stories cum grano sails. 

Before 1830, Algiers was a nest of pirates of the worst 
kind. France sent a fleet of one hundred and seventeen men- 
of-war and four hundred merchantmen, carrying 38,000 sol- 
diers, and took the city by assault. Since then all Algeria has 
been under French control. Every ragged Moor we meet in 
the street, and most of the Arab porters and laborers of the 
place are the descendants of pirates that once infested the 
country, yet there are now no rebellions. The French rule 
has been firm but beneficial. A walk through the city reminds 
one very much of the scenes so well described in the "Arabian 
Nights' Entertainment." Some are well dressed in the pecu- 
liar Bedouin white robe and head dress, but the great majority 
are clothed in dirty and ragged coarse cloth with their feet 
and legs entirely bare. They have their heads, necks and 
bodies well wrapped up, showingnothing but their faces, while 
their feet and legs are exposed to the wind, rain and mud. 
When they lie down to sleep, they cover their heads and leave 



272 Algiers to Tunis. 

their bare feet and legs exposed. They prefer to sleep with 
their heads down and feet up. In other words, they never use 
a pillow and if they lie down on the side of a hill, you will be 
sure to find their feet up the hill and their heads down. I saw 
but few handsome Arab women ; some of the men have a dig- 
nified and commanding presence, but none were what I would 
call handsome. The young women are fat, the young men 
almost skeletons. They have, however, very black and pierc- 
ing e3^es. 

There are some very lovely villas, owned by French gen- 
tlemen and retired merchants, around Algiers. The hotels 
are all fairly good, but the prices are as high as in Paris. 
We stopped at St. George's hotel, in the suburb Mustapha. 
It is about five hundred feet above the sea and presents some 
very fine views. "Hotel Splendide" is still higher up the 
mountain and overlooks the harbor and city in a very charm- 
ing manner I would, however, advise visitors to take a hotel 
in the heart of the town, where Algerian life can be better 
seen and studied, but the splendid landscapes can be better 
seen from the hills. 

By a day's drive around the town, the villas, gardens, etc., 
may be inspected. In walking among the undergrowth and 
over the hills outside of the city, one should never pick up a 
stick or stone without first giving it a kick as it may conceal 
a scorpion or poisonous insect, which are very common around 
the place. Snakes, however, have been pretty well extirpated. 
When we landed at Algiers, we thought it such a lovely spot 
that we would spend at least a week there, but after a busy 
day we saw it all and began to long for some new sights and 
scenes. How soon we tire of the most charming scenery and 
attractive amusements. I sometimes doubt whether we will 
not grow weary of Paradise. So restless is the spirit of man 
that heaven will be a prison if he could not go to the other 
place if he so desired. The government of the Eternal King 
must necessarily be strong or there would be a rebellion in 
heaven worse than the one of six thousand years ago. This 
restless spirit seized our party and, as a natural result, after 
spending two days in x\lgiers we started on a five hundred 
mile trip over the mountains to Tunis. While pursuing this 
route we were at one time about one hundred and ten miles in 
the interior of Africa and within nine hours of the great desert 
of Sahara. We passed through about forty towns and Moorish 
villages. We stopped one day at Setif, which is three thousand 
five hundred and twenty-seven feet above the level of the sea. 
I was kept awake nearly all night by dogs barking and chasing 
rats about the court yard. We also spent a day at Constan- 
tine. It is one of the most striking cities I have ever visited. 



CONSTANTINE. 273 

It is built upon a mass of precipitous rock two thousand one 
hundred feet above sea level . It is impossibl 2 to paint with 
the pen a picture of Constautine. To paint a perfect pen pic- 
ture it is necessary to refer to some place like it, with which 
the reader is familiar. Photographs do not do justice because 
they only give the outlines of a scene a few yards arcund the 
focus. There is no place in the world, that I have^een, bear- 
ing any resemblance to Constaritine. It is a natural fort. 
It contains three or four natural bridges, something like the 
celebrated one in Virginia. It has a canyon running through 
the town one thousand feet deep. A beautiful bridge spans 
the chasm six hundred feet above the little stream below which 
plunges into the earth just at the base of the bridge. The city 
is built upon the almost perpendicular sides of a mountain of 
barren rock, with streets and tunnels cut upon its sides so as 
to utilize all the space and give some most charming landscapes. 
A gentleman who has seen the renowned scenery of California 
pronounced this equal to anything he had seen there. He said 
the Yellowstone Park was grander in its stupendous magnitude 
but not more striking. Some of the houses in the rear seem 
to overhang precipices at least six hundred feet deep, while 
the front of the buildings face upon a handsome street. There 
is a natural hot sulphur spring at the base of the mountain with 
artificial baths for skin diseases. It was celebrated for its 
miraculous cures in the palmy days of Rome. The city is ver}^ 
ancient. 

We visited the ruins of a Roman aqueduct with five 
grand arches at least one hundred feet high still remaining. 
The masonry is very perfect and without cement. It is about 
all that remains, as a kind of grave stone, upon which we may 
read the epitaph of former greatness. I have passed the age 
of youthful enthusiasm. Twenty-three years of foreign travel 
have destroyed the romance that naturally clusters around old 
places of historic interest ; yet I can truly say, I never saw a 
more interesting place than Constautine. Some of the old 
streets are too narrow for a carriage, and yet are full to over- 
flowing with what seems to be the over charged surplus of 
humanity in all its forms, and dressed in every known cos- 
tume. Turbaned Turks, richly dressed Jews, Bedouin Arabs, 
Milky -white Moors with hair like a raven's wing and eyes like 
black diamonds ; veiled Mohammedan women, and half naked 
and ragged beggars, all in costumes entirely different from the 
European dress. I saw rings hanging to women's ears four 
inches in diameter and covered with trinklets. I saw men ar- 
rayed in purple and gold, Vvdth snowy white turbans ; women in 
rich lace and flowing satin trousers ; children in gauze robes be- 
dizened with silver and gold tinsel ; and at the same time, fine 



274 The Arabs, 

looking Arab men in bare feet and legs, clDthed with coffee 
bags cut and sewed together so as to make a costume in con- 
formity with Arabian ideas of dress. Some were clean and beau- 
tiful, others filthy and extremely ugly. Some of the women 
looked like the inhabitants of Paradise peeping over the bat- 
tlements of heaven, while others were as ugly as the hags 
Macbeth met upon the witches' heath. 

We left Constantine well satisfied with our visit. All our 
preconceived ideas of Ali'ica have been erroneous. Thus far 
we have met but few black people. ■ The negroes are, as a rule, 
slaves. All along the route we saw shepherds attending their 
flocks, just as they did in the days of old. It was often neces- 
sary for us to start for our day's journey at four o'clock in the 
morning. As the light began to dawn, we could see tall Arabs 
in long white seamless coats, just such raiment as was worn by 
Christ while he blessed the earth by his presence, standing like 
dreamy sentinels keeping guard over their fl,ocks. We could 
see them led from pasiuie ground to rivulet, and from 
mountain to mountain in search of food or water. We could 
better comprehend the Psalm of David : "The Lord is my 
shepherd, I shall not want ; He maketh me to lie down in 
green pastures ; He leadeth me beside the still waters." For a 
hundred miles in the mountain district we saw but few perma- 
nent dwellings. Most of the inhabitants dwell in tents or 
hovels of brush, wood and straw. All their wealth is in their 
flocks and herds. They are all Mohammedans or Jews, and 
most of them have four wives. They are not permitted by the 
Koran to have more, but may own as man}' concubines as they 
are able to buy and keep. The Arab husband generally mana- 
ges to make his wife earn her own living and also be of some 
pecuniary value to him. He does not hesitate to sell her for a 
limited season, but always stipulates that she shall be returned 
in good health, reasonable wear and tear excepted, and be 
well clothed and nourished. There must be some cause for 
the great degeneration in the character of the Moor. It can 
only be attributed to the evil consequences of the harem. It 
has degenerated the men and demoralized the women. One 
can hardly believe, when he looks at the Moor of to-day, that 
he is the son of the energetic race that held Spain for five 
hundred years and left such monuments of refinement and cul- 
ture as are still found in that country. The Christian of to- 
day is what the Moor of the sixth and seventh century was. 
Can it be possible that we shall ever degenerate into his sad 
and hopeless condition of to-day, or that he shall advance to. 
the civilization we now enjoy ? Let us never forget that our 
western civilization is the direct result of Christ's teachings, 
and that the degeneracy of the Turk, Arab and Moor has been 



CONSTANTINE TO TuN^S. 275 



caused by the teachings of the Koran and the religion of the 
false Prophet. 

We arrived at Tunis yesterday. In my next letter I will 
tr}' to describe the city. 



LIX. 

Tunis to Nice — Mountain Scenery of Africa — Tunis 
Older Than Rome or Carthage — The Tragic Story of 
Carthage — Dido et Dux— A Very Old Lover — Inter- 
esting Ruins- An Arab Guide— The Palace and Harem 
OF the Bey^More Wives More Waste — Forbidden 
Fruit — Back to Marseilles — Along the Riviera — 
Cannes— Nice. 

Nice, March, 1892. 
It requires nineteen hours by rail from Constantine to Tunis. 
The country along the route is mountainous and sterile, with 
here and there a fertile valley devoted to pasture for the flocks 
and herds of the Arab shepherds. The weather was pleasant 
but we enjoyed our winter clothing and overcoats. The Atlas 
chain of mountains is about one thousand five hundred miles 
long. The mountains we crossed are spurs of the great chain. 
Some of the scenery was far superior to any of the views of the 
Alleghenies, not excluding the famous Horse Shoe. A. peculi- 
arity of the African mountains is the absence of trees ; they 
are bare to the summits. As we emerged from some of the 
tunnels the vistas were supremely fine. A great snow-capped 
peak at the right ; at the left a stupendous crag ; on the moun- 
tain side a cascade ; in the deep chasm a purple mist ; at the 
bottom a limpid stream ; in the valley below Arab tents and 
shepherds in their long flowing dresses guarding their flocks. 
It was midnight when we arrived at Tunis The city 
was full of strangers and the hotels crowded. We succeeded, 
however, in securing ver}'- good rooms at the Grand Hotel, a 
fine new building in the fashionable part of the city. Tunis 
is very much like a European city. It has its old and new 
parts. It is not as beautifully situated as Tangier, Algiers 
or Constantine. The old part of the city has its Arab, Jewish 
and Moorish quarters. They seem to go in swarms like insects 
of the same breed. It has its bazars, narrow and crooked 
streets, covered alleys, cnl de sacs and lazy as well as indus- 
trious citizens. The costumes are as varied as the people. 

The chief attractions of Tunis are its great age — being 
older than Rome or Carthage — and its proximity to the great 



2/6 Carthage. 



theatre upon the stage of which the world's greatest tragedies 
have been performed. It stands upon the border of a salt lake 
a.id is in the centre of a plain of many miles extent. In this plain 
many great battles were fought betvveea the Romans and Car- 
thagenians. Regulus was defeated la the plain between Tunis 
and Carthage, only nine miles to the northeast. Kvery school 
boy knows his sad end. A short distance from the city we 
see the mountains at the base of which Hamilcar murdered, 
mutilated and annihilated his rebellious mercenary troops. It 
took him three years to destroy his hired soldiers, but he was 
so disgusted at their treachery and cruelty, that he determined 
to entirely destroy them. It was around the city that Scipio 
and Hannibal contended for the empire of the world. Hannibal 
had so often invaded the sacred soil of Rome that, for fifteen 
years, he looked upon it as a conquered nation, but Scipio con- 
ceived the brilliant idea of " carrying the war into Africa." 
His policy eventually changed the result and the conquerors 
became the conquered. 

It was near Tunis that Marius finally defeated Jugurtha 
and afterwards dragged him in chains behind his chariot through 
the streets of Rome, where he died from starvation after having 
lost his mind from his great suJ^rings. It was at the city of 
Tunis, after the end of the second Punic war, that Scipio dic- 
tated his cruel terms of peace. Cruel as they were, Carthage 
not only complied with them but soon again became the rival 
of Rome. Her final fall was due to Cato. He was sent on an 
embassy to Carthage and was surprised to find it entirely recov- 
ered from the supposed irreparable disasters of the late war. 
When he returned to Rome he startled the Senate by the con- 
cluding words of his great speech — •" Carthage must be de- 
stroyed." The decree was made in a secret session of the 
Senate and Rome only awaited a pretext to renew the war. 
The third Punic war soon followed. The only terms of peace 
for poor Carthage were to give up her best citizens as hostages, 
to remove the entire population nine miles from the sea, and 
to permit the Roman army to raze the city to the ground. 
After a struggle of three years Carthage was destroyed. When 
the city fell, all the inhabitants capable of bearing arms, were 
put to death. Of the splendid city nothing was left from which 
It could be rebuilt. This tremendous and awful disaster, and 
the struggles that preceeded it, only second to the subsequent 
fall of Rome, occurred in a little corner of the earth not much 
larger than Delaware county. 

Carthage was founded by Dido, a princess of Troy, B.C. 
822. Virgil, however, in his story of ^neas, and the foundation 
of Carthage and Rome, is either greatly mistaken in his chro- 
nology, or the accepted dates of the fall of Troy and foundation. 



Carthage. 277 

of Rome are erroneous. If the accepted dates are correct, 
^neas was over two hundred years old when Dido fell so 
desperately in love with him as to commit suicide when he 
deserted her to build his new city of Rome. The spot where 
she built her funeral pyre is pointed out to the traveler. After 
the disgrace of Marius, he was found sitting in despair among 
the ruins of Carthage, the scene of his former glory. In a 
later period, Caesar and Pompey contended in the plains between 
Tunis and Carthage, for the dominion of Rome. Caesar won 
and Pompey died. Old Belisarrius fought the Vandals in these 
same plains near Tunis. Outside of Rome there is no more 
interesting place, for the student of history, than Tunis. 

Most of the land upon which the city of Carthage stood is 
now cultivated. In every field, however, may be seen, cropping 
out like the ledge of a natural rock, the veritable ruins of the 
old city. They extend for miles around. Recent excava- 
tions have brought to light many valuable relics. The 
Museum on the hill is full of very valuable historical marbles, 
with dates and inscriptions, which completely verify the tradi- 
tions from which we have extracted our history of the city. 
Some fine specimens of white m rble statuary have been found 
which will compare very favorably with the best works of 
Grecian art. What was supposed to be a hill, about one hun- 
dred feet high, is now found to be the debris of an ancient 
palace. The splendid chapel of St. Louis, who died here in 
his last crusade, is built upon the vaulted roof of some immense 
buried building of the destroyed city. We were agreeably dis- 
appointed in our visit to Carthage. We were told that but 
little of the ruins of the old city could be seen. When we re- 
member that it was the rival of Rome for seven hundred years, 
we can form some idea of what a splendid metropolis it must 
have been. 

Tunis is supposed to have been founded by the Canaanites 
after they were driven from Palestine by Joshua. It is cer- 
tainly a very ancient city. Its climate is mild and salubrious 
from October to May ; after May it is too warm for a comfort- 
able dwelling place. John Howard Payne, the author of 
" Home, Sweet Home," died here, a homeless wanderer. 

Only thirty-seven miles from Tunis is the site of ancient 
Utica, where Cato the younger committed suicide after his 
famous soliloquy upon the immortality of the soul. We pro- 
cured the services of a veritable Arab, named Mustapha, to 
guide us around the city and show us the sights. He spoke 
very good French, at least we thought so, for we could perfectly 
understand him and he us. A native Frenchman speaks too 
fast for us to keep up with him. Mustapha spoke very slowly 
and deliberately so that, with a little care on our part, we could 



2/8 Tunis. 



communicate our thoughts to each other with great precision. 
He conducted us through the crowded, narrow, streets and lanes 
of the Moorish and Arab quarters ; through the bazars ; the 
palace of the Bey, and the harem and its beautiful gardens. 
The palace covers, I would say from a rough guess, some 
twenty acres of ground. The exterior is very much dilapi- 
dated, but the interior is in very good condition. The Bey is 
now residing in his new palace a'rout five miles out of town ; 
we saw it as we went to Carthage. The palace at Tunis, how- 
ever, could be ready for habitation on a few days' notice. All 
the furniture, beds, carpets, tapestry, paintings, statuary and 
ornaments remain. It will comfortably accommodate three or 
four hundred wives, eunuchs, slaves and children. The pres- 
ent Bey has several hundred wives ; only two, however, enjoy 
his society. The rest are nurses, minstrels, dancers, etc. The 
magnificent velvet carpets are very much moth-eaten under the 
beds and in dark corners. I called Mustapha's attention to 
the slovenly condition of the Bey's household. He replied, 
" One wife keep house clean ; two wives hardly keep them- 
selves clean ; more wives, more waste." Then pointing to the 
marble lions on the grand stairway, he said, ' ' Lion noble beast ; 
he only have one wife." 

In the picture gallery of the palace, we were surprised to 
find a fine, full life-sized portrait of George Washington, hang- 
ing in company with emperors, kings, sultans and other great 
ones of the earth. The exterior of the palace is now under- 
going extensive repairs. 

A still more interesting place was the harem. . Our Arab 
guide seemed to be a favorite with the guards. They objected 
at first to our entrance, but a few words from Mustapha in 
Arabic had the magic effect of opening the portals even of the 
sacred seraglio of the Bey We saw the great bed chamber 
with its two enormous beds, each bed large enough to comfort- 
ably accommodate twentj^ sleepers. The furniture was heavily 
gilt with gold ; mirrors hung in every position ; the beds were 
covered with them. The tapestry was of satin, with gold and 
silver threads interwoven so as to give it the appearance of 
gold and silver cloth. Every chamber had its peculiar use. 
Each contained a throne, some were large, others small. The 
grand concert room had the throne, or Bey's seat, in the cen- 
tre. His wives amuse him here by singing, dancing and mak- 
ing music. It is impossible to describe the interior of this 
harem. Suffice it to say, we visited every part of it, from the 
toilet and bath room to the nursery and bed chambers, and 
have now a very good idea of the domestic life of the Sultan 
and great Turkish and Eastern monarchs. Every chamber 
had its armed guard at the door ; every gate was watched over 



Stolen Fkuit. 



279 



by an armed eunuch or soldier. The outer walls were also 
armed with bristling cannon, giving to the whole palace a ver}- 
strong and formidable appearance. It could, however, be 
blown to atoms bj^ a few modern shells. Its warlike appear- 
ance is more for effect than actual defence. 

The lace tracery on the plastered wails is very curious. 
It was all done with knives and has the appearance of real lace. 
My wife could hardly be convinced that the vaulted ceiling 
was not covered with actual lace. 

We looked from the windows of the harem out upon a 
most charming garden of flowers, and orange trees laden with 
golden fruit. We expressed a desire to visit the garden. 
Mustapha whispered something to the. eunuch at the gate 
which at once opened and we were admitted. I asked Musta- 
pha what the magic word was at which every gate and door 
opened. With a sly wink, he said the mystic word was 
" Backsheesh." It cost me about twelve francs in fees to the 
different guards and doorkeepers. The seraglio garden was 
surrounded by a high wall, with no outer gate. It had two 
little temples to Venus covered with glass where the ladies of 
the harem sing, play and drink coffee. This is about the sum 
of a woman's harem life. She eats, bathes, dresses, drinks 
coffee, sings, plays and dances, and then sleeps or walks about 
in the garden. 

It is a ;-emarkable fact that all mortals, male as well as 
female, are fond of " forbidden fruit." Eve enjoyed it as well 
as Adam. As I saw the luscious ripe oranges hanging in 
tempting clusters, awaiting to refresh the lips of some adven- 
turous thief, I felt a longing desire to steal just one to see if 
it tasted any better than the ones I could buy in the streets 
for a penny each. I asked Mustapha what the penalty was 
for stealing in Tunis. He informed me that a thief in Tunis 
had his right hand cut off in open court, so I concluded I 
would buy a few oranges from the eunuch in charge. He gave 
me four for one franc. I saved my right hand by paying 
twenty cents, but the oranges did not taste half as sweet as if 
I had stolen them. 

A visit to the beautiful fountains (supplied by a mountain 
stream, performing the double function of a handsome orna- 
ment and water works for the city), about ended our sight- 
seeing. 

On the eighth of March we embarked from I^a Goulette, 
(the seaport of Tunis, about nine miles from the city and 
within five hundred yards of the site of Carthage), for Mar- 
seilles, which we reached in safety in two days. The sea w^as 
rather rough and most of the passengers very seasick. My 
little party, however, have managed thus far to keep well. 



28o The Marsellaise. 

We have not missed a meal on shipboard since we sailed from 
New York. We were surprised when we arrived at Marseilles 
to find it snowing ; it melted, however, as fast as it fell ; it 
was like the snow we sometimes have at home in May. As 
we had to spend the day at Marseilles my wife and I visited 
the chapel of " Notre Dame de la Garde," a most imposing 
church which crowns one of the highest hills around the city. 
From the terrace of the church we had a fine view of all Mar- 
seilles and of the half-moon ridge of mountains which surround 
and protect it from the north and northeast winds. We could 
see for thirty miles out at sea. 

The hymn called " The Marsellaise " was not composed, 
as some suppose, here. It was written by Claude Joseph Rouget 
de r Isle, in 1792, at Strasbourg. In our road Jrom Marseilles 
along the "Riviera" as it is called in Italian, in French 
" The lyittoral," we passed some historic places and saw some 
very picturesque scenery. At Frejus, the road almost touches 
the shores of the bay in which the fleet of Mark Antony found 
shelter after his defeat. L^ike many another great fool he 
threw away the world for a woman and received the usual 
reward for his inordinate love -disgrace and death. Some 
fine Roman ruins may be seen at several places along the line 
of the road. It was from the same bay at Frejus, that Napo- 
leon sailed for Kibe. 

We spent the night and one day at Cannes (pronounced 
Ca7i), a lovely place, with the climate of Jacksonville, Florida, 
and are now spending a few days at Nice, a most charming 
place so far as natural beauty is concerned. It is built upon a 
bay of the Mediterranean. Its principal street extends for 
two miles along the shore, and is eighty-five feet wide finely 
paved and walled up from the sea, and is lined with princely 
villas, that sit back from the street, surrounded with splendid 
gardens. 

Many persons, and among them some preachers of the 
gospel who, above all others ought to know better, think the 
great Council of Nice was held here. This is a great mistake. 
It was held at Nice (Nicia) in Asia Minor, about one hundred 
and fifty miles from Constantinople. 

We leave here to-morrow for Monte Carlo. 



The Littoral. 281 



LX 

Nice to Florence — The Climate of the Littoral De- 
pendent ON THE Wind — Charming Nice — View from 
the Campo Santo — Gambetta's GrA.ve — Caterina Se- 
GURANA — Garibaldi's Birthplace — Difference in 
French Pronunciation — Nice to Monaco and Monte 
Carlo — Splendid Church from the Profits of Gam- 
bling — Fighting the Tiger — Enormous Gains op the 
Casino Mentone San Remo— Genoa Once More- 
Pisa Again — Florence — Full of Hidden Charms-Con- 
ceited Old Artists. 

Florence, March, 1892. 
The much praised winter climate of the French Littoral, 
or north coast of the Mediterranean, depends very much upon 
the wind and sun. If the sky is clear and the wind from the 
northward, the temperature will be delightful; but when 
cloudy or rainy weather prevails, or the wind comes from the 
sea, I know of no more disagreeable place. We, who were 
farmer boys, know what a pleasant place in winter the barn- 
yard was, with its southern exposure and sheltered position, 
full of clean straw and dreamy cattle, basking in the noontide 
sun. It was a very comfortable place for boys as well as cows. 
The same cause produces a like effect along the Littoral. The 
whole coast is sheltered from the cold winds by the high mari- 
time Alps. Their northern slope, when struck by the strong 
winds, shoots the cold stratum high up over the little towns 
in the sheltered nooks along the coast. The bluff, southern 
face of the mountains receives the direct rays of the sun which 
have the same effect upon animated nature as a hot-house has 
upon vegetation. At Nice the stratum of sn3w-chilled wind 
is, perhaps, a mile above the town. Of all the places we have 
yet seen along this coast, Nice is by far the most pLasant. It 
has a. population of about 85,000. The average March tem- 
perature is about fifty-two degrees Fahr. It is a pretty town 
and has some very charming drives along the coast and on the 
cornices of the mountains. The old part o" the city, around 
the ancient port and castle, is very quaint. Narrow, crooked, 
crowded, but clean streets, with houses six and .seven stories 
high, are a marked feature of the old part of the town. Castle 
Hill is three hundred and fifteen feet high, with houses upon 
its steep side next to the port, nearly up to its summit. The 
hill is crowned b}^ the castle or ancient citadel, supposed to 
have been built b}^ the Phoenicians, and now a ruin. The 



Castle Hill. 



campo santo, or cemetery, adjoins the castle and is located Ofi 
the top of the hill overlooking the city, the country, and the 
sea for many miles around- To the right, the view is superb. 
Some of the mountains are green and terraced nearly to their 
tops, while others are barren rocks, and some are capped with 
snow which shines in the rays of the sun like burnished silver- 
I have seen but few more delightful views than the one pre- 
sented from the cemetery on Castle Hill. 

Among the tombs of the great ones of Nice, that of Gam- 
betta occupies a consecrated spot on the highest ground in the 
cemetery. It is daily decorated with flowers, evergreens, 
wreaths of immortelles and votive offerings from the loving 
hands of his countrymen. The remains of his mother repose 
by his side. 

" How sleep the brave who sink to rest 
By all their country's wishes biest. 
VVheii Sprinsj returns with fingers cold 
To dress again their hallowed mould, 
She then shall tread a nobler sod 
Than Freedom's feet have ever trod." 

It was here, on the fifteenth of August, 154'',, that a brave 
woman, Caterina Segurana, with a devoted band of Christian 
followers, attacked and defeated the Turk, Barbarossa (Red 
Beard), and with her own hand struck down his standard 
bearer. Her mortal remains repose in the cemetery above 
mentioned. 

Massena, one of Napoleon's bravest marshals, was born 
at Nice. He was chosen by the Emperor as the best qualified 
of all his marshals to check the victorious march of the Duke 
of Wellington in Spain. Massena was ordered to drive the 
English with their " Sepoy General " into the sea. Welling- 
ton refused to take water and in his turn drove Massena and 
the French out of Spain. 

Garibaldi was born at Nice. He has a very handsome 
marble monument erected to his memory in one of the public 
squares. 

Nice is now full of travelers spending the Spring months 
to escape the disagreeable weather of England and America. 
The hotels are overflowing and the landlords happy and saucy. 
We found shelter in the " Grand Hotel des Isles Britanique," 
a very imposing and high-priced hotel. 

There is a marked difference between the French as spo- 
ken in this part of France and in Paris. It is surprising that 
Germans and Italians, ' who by the ear,' can detect the slightest 
false note in music, for their lives cannot distinguish between 
the sounds of the consonants p, b and v. They call " pomme 
de terre " bomrne de terre. " Bon jour " they call pon jour, 
etc. A Frenchman of Nice became enamored with an Eng- 
lish lady. He pressed his suit with such vigor that she 



Monaco and Monte Carlo. 283 

thought it wise to leave the room ; as she passed out the door 
he cried out in despair, " Madame, Je t'adore." She thought 
he said, " Madam, shut that door.'' She turned upon him as 
only an insulted woman can, and said, " Shut it yourself, you 
impudent puppy." In good French Je f adore sounds very 
much like " shut that door." Je V ado>e, literally translated, 
means " I adore thee." 

From Nice we went to Monaco and Monte Carlo. Monaco 
is built upon a high rock jutting out into the sea and helps to 
form the cozy nook where Monte Carlo reposes. Monte Carlo 
is now the greatest gambling resort of the world. The Casino, 
or gambling palace, is also built on a rock running out into 
the sea, but not as high as Monaco. Everything that art and 
gold can do to make the place attractive, has been done. It is 
filled with groves and gardens, laid out with exquisite taste 
and is certainly very paradisaical in outward appearance. 
Splendid streets and roads have been cut in the solid rock. 
Terraces have been built, the earth of which has been carted 
from places miles away. As a proper contrast to the beautiful 
Casino, a magnificent cathedral has been built and paid for 
from the profits of the gambling bank. Truly extremes meet. 

The Casino sits like a sleek tiger, well fed on the blood 
of the many thousand victims he has eaten up during the past 
thirty years. This sly beast sleeps during the day but his 
eyes shine with fascinating power at night. Crouched upon 
his rocky lair, he bids defiance to the world and never declines 
a fight. Many thousands ccmtend with him every night and, 
like the sheep in the fable that went out for wool, they go 
home shorn. One would suppose the fate of those that have 
attempted to battle with him would be a warning to others not 
to play with him, but the crowd of fascinated fortune hunters 
does not seem to diminish, and the fool-killer seems to have 
abandoned Monte Carlo. 

Aside from metaphor, Monte Carlo seems to be the grand 
center for the gamblers of the world. I saw as much as 
$40,000 raked into the bank in less than six minutes. The 
■favorite game is Roulette, in which there are thirty-two little 
pockets for a revolving ball to fall into. The player that puts 
his money on any number from i to 32, has a chance, if the 
ball falls into the pocket bearing his number, to get thirty-two 
times the amount of his stake. The pockets are white and 
red ; if he puts his money on the red and the ball falls into a 
red pocket, he wins twice his stake and so on through a variety 
of complications. He can bet on an even chance, two to one 
and on up to thirty-two to one. To look at it, it appears per- 
fectl}^ fair, but, somehow, the bank gets enormously rich and 
the players nearly all quit poor. Some expert gamblers have 



2S4 The Casino. 

come here with immense sums, with the single purpose of 
breaking this bank but they have always been the losers. An 
English syndicate became convinced that a certain theory, if 
it had suiicient capital behind it, could break the concern. 
They raised $250,000 and sent an expert player to experiment; 
but after a few v/eeks, Monte Carlo had every cent. The Casino 
haS eleven tables — around each, at least one hundred players 
can be accommodated. These tables are always full. At some 
tables they will take a wager of five francs ($1), at others 
nothing less than a IvOuis d'or ($4). Thousands of fortunes 
are lost here every year. The average of suicides at Monte 
Cailo is about one hundred and twenty-five a year. The bank, 
as a matter of policy, buries the suicide and pays his hotel 
bill. The " world, the flesh, and the devil, " seem to have 
possession of the place. I have some doubt whether it con- 
tains many more ngateous persons than the fated cities of the 
plain. I supp >se the church at Monaco, paid for from the 
earnings of th:i giiu'ng tables, saves the place from Sodom and 
Gomorrah's fate. 

It is reported that the net gains of last year reached the 
enormous sum of 25,000,000 francs, 2,500,000 more than' in 
1890. A dividend of two hundred and thirty-five francs was 
declared upon each bond of the par value of five hundred francs. 
The bonds to-day are quoted at 2300 francs. The directors 
also decided to add 100,000 francs to the pension fund for the 
1 100 officials connected in various ways with the bank. 

We made a very pleasant excursion from Monte Carlo to 
Mentone by carriage over one of the beautiful mountain roads. 
The scenery was really charming. The road, however, is 
lined with beggars which detracted very much from the plea- 
sure of the ride. We gave a red-eyed old dwarf ten centimes 
for which he thanked us very much and declared as soon as he 
got five francs he would try his luck again in the bank. So 
it seems that even the little charities one dispenses there go 
into the coffers of the Casino. 

From Monte Carlo we took a twelve-hour ride by rail to 
Florence. On our way we passed through San Remo, made 
famous as the place chosen by the late Emperor of Germany 
as a health resort and place of repose during his last sickness.. 
We also passed through Genoa which looked about as it did 
when I last visited it in 1888. From Genoa we went through 
Pisa and took another look at its famous IvCaning Tower. The 
city does not look as well to me as it did four years ago. 

We arrived at Florence about seven P. M. and are now 
resting at the Hotel de 1' Arno, facing the river from which 
the hotel is named. Florence is one of the centers of European 
travel. The weather is rather too cold for comfort without: 



Florence, 285 

artificial heat and too warm with it. During the day, while 
the sun shines, it is deliciously pleasant but at night it be- 
comes cold and chilly, caused b_y the snow upon the mountains, 
always in sight. The Arno is now rushing through the city 
and darting with great rapidity under the bridges, muddy and 
murky from the wash of the mountains. It is about ten feet 
deep at this season ; in August it will be almost dry. We had 
heard so much praise of Florence that we expected too much. 
I was very much disappointed with the general appearance of 
the city. I have no doubt but that it was, when compared 
with the other old cities of Europe a very handsome and per- 
haps a splendid place a few hundred years ago, but it certainly 
is not, so far as its external appearance is concerned, a very 
handsome city now. 

lyike the face and form of some ladies we have met, Flor- 
ence improves as we become better acquainted with her. As 
we discover her many concealed virtues and hidden charms we 
learn to love her more and appreciate her better. With the 
exception of the world-renowned Cathedral and graceful cam- 
panile, or bell tower, the outsides of the churches are all ugly 
and forbidding in appearance ; but when we enter them we are 
amazed at the splendor and richness of the work, decorations, 
statuary and paintings they contain. 

Michael x\ngelo's best sculpture is found in the churches. 
The gallery Uffizi and its adjunct, the gallerv Pitti, contain 
some of the world's finest paintings. The National Museum 
contains the sculpture of all the old Italian artists. We see so 
much of the work of Michael x\ngelo, Raphael and Benevenuto 
Cellini, and so many life-like statues and portaits of Dante, 
Machiavelli and Galileo, that we almost imagine them alive 
and walking the streets of Florence. 

Some of these old artists must have been fully aware of 
their skill with the pencil and chisel. They attempted to 
produce copies of everything from a worm up to the Al- 
mighty. It seems to me that Michael Angelo could not 
have been a very modest man or he would have hesitated be- 
fore he attempted to paint the face and form of God. If the 
dignity of the Almighty ever permits him to laugh, and if he 
ever condescends to look upon the works of man, he must, at 
least, smile with pity and contempt for the conceited old artist 
who painted him to look like a Samson, Hercules, or John L,. 
Sullivan. 

One of the advantages of Florence is the close proximity 
of its most interesting places. All its art treasures may be 
seen within easy walking distance of each other. 

The church of S. Croce is the Westminster Abbey or 
Pantheon of Florence. It contains the tomb of Michael 



286 Fi^oRENCE to Venick. 

Angelo, Machiavelli, Galileo and many other illustrious men of 
Italy. Among the sacred relics of the church they exhibit a 
stone about a foot square that once fell from the vaulted roof, 
fully one hundred feet above, and struck a pious monk on the 
top of his head while praying to the Virgin. The monk was 
not hurt but the stone was bent He was certainly a hard- 
headed old fellow. 



LXI. 



FLOREisfce TO VENiC:^— ^Well Authenticated MiraCIvES-^ 
Justice Expensive in Florence— Treasures of Art — • 
Masonic Emblems— The Gate of Paradise^Campo 

SANTO^FlORENCE to BOLOGNA^IyODGED IN A FaLACE — 

lyEANiNG Towers— Bologna to Venice— - Another Pal- 
ace— Hotel— Low Prices in Venice— ^Necessity for 
our Takiff Laws— 'A Unique City— Not a Horse in all 
Venice— The Plague— ^Titian's First Love^Othello 
AND Desdamona— Shylock vs. Antonio— The Inquisi- 
tion NOT A Religious Institution — The Lion's Mouth. 

Venice, March, 1892. 
I ended my last letter with a history of the miraculous 
escape of a pious priest, whose head was harder than a forty- 
pound stone that fell one hundred feet from the vaulted roof 
of a church where he was praying, and struck him upon the 
crown of his cranium without either cracking his skull or 
breaking the stone. The stone has been securely chained to 
one of the pillars of the church to prevent it from repeating 
any more such dangerous freaks. The priest who related the 
miracle seemed surprised at an incredulous smile which, des- 
pite my will, crept over my countenance. "Do you doubt 
the miracle ?" said he. I assured him that the evidence was 
too conclusive to admit of doubt, for there was the stone and I 
could not ignore what my eyes so clearly saw. He seemed 
pleased at my exhibition of faith and conducted me to the 
scene of a still greater miracle, in one of the chapels of St. 
Mark's church. The chapel is adorned with a very good life- 
size painting, representing several poor monks sitting around 
a table praying f^yr food, when suddenly two bright angels 
enter with their arms full of bread which they are supposed to 
have thrown upon the table. The miracle was performed sev- 
eral hundred years ago in that very chapel which has ever 
since been too sacred for any other purpose than a praying 
place for the poor and hungry, It reminded me of a miracle 



Treasures of Art. 287 

performed some fifty years ago in the State of Delaware. I 
heard my uncle relate the story when I was a little boy. 
There was a pious old negro, very poor and too old to work. 
He had the faith of father Abraham, and when he was out of 
food, prayed for what he wanted His master was returning 
from the potato patch, in the dusk of the evening, with a bas- 
ket of new potatoes. As he passed the open window of the 
old negro's cabin, he saw him standing in front of his table, 
full of empty dishes, praying for a few " new taters," where- 
upon his master threw the basket, potatoes and all, at his old 
gray head. The potatoes fell in a shower over the table and 
broke some of his dishes. After the first surprise was over, 
he raised his eyes toward heaven and said, " Massa lyord, 
dem's de taters, but please don't throw 'em down quite so hard 
nex' time." As positive proof of the miracle, the old negro 
preserved the basket and triumphantly showed it to all doubters. 

We devoted four days, with a carriage and good guide, to 
the sights of Florence. We found it full of hidden treasures 
of art. Including the suburbs, it has a population of about 
180,000. The villas without the walls are charming retreats, 
occupied by the rich natives and English and American so- 
journers. I am, however, still of the opinion that the beauties 
of the city, as painted by travelers, are very much overrated. 

As we drove over the city to take a glance at its outside 
appearance our guide, who spoke good French but very bad 
English, pointed out the several objects of interest— statues, 
columns, palaces, squares and churches. In one of the princi- 
pal streets, near the Palace of Justice, is a high column, upon 
the top of which stands the Goddess of Justice with a pair of 
scales in her right hand. Our guide tried his hand at a pun 
in English and, considering his want of experience in the lan- 
guage, he did very well. Pointing to the Goddess on the top of 
the column he said, " Ze justice is very high (dear) in Flor- 
ence." As we laughed at his pun, he seemed highly pleased. 

We visited all the places of interest in the city , including 
the galleries of painting and sculpture and saw all the famous 
works of the old masters. We also visited the Palace of the 
Medicis, which, externally, looks like a prison but internally 
is very rich with grand old halls, tapestry, statuary and paint- 
ings. To those who are fond of sculpture, Florence is rich 
with the works of the best artists, from Praxiteles and Phidias 
down to Conova. 

With the single exception of Rome, its churches are the 
richest in internal wealth of any in the world. The Cathedral 
is a very imposing structure in its architectural design. The 
campanile is built of different colored marble, like the cathe- 
dral, and presents from its summit a splendid view of the city 



288 The Campo Santo. 

and surrounding country. They show the silver trowel, 
square, compass and twenty-four-inch guage which, they as- 
sure us, were the veritable tools used by the architect in the 
construction of the church. When I showed the guide th^ 
same emblems on my Masonic mark, he took it for granted 
that I was some great architect and insisted upon showing me 
the five original plans of the building. I understood the em- 
blems better than he did. They simply meant that the foun- 
dations had been laid by some old mason according to the 
custom of the craft — -the same all the world over. 

Some travelers affect to" go into exstacies over the bronze 
doors of the Baptistry but, notwithstanding the half hour 
wasted in a detailed explanation of their allegorical meaning, 
I could not work myself up to the enthusiasm professed by 
some of the spectators. The work is undoubtedly very fine. 
One door took twenty-four years to make. The artist was the 
celebrated lyorenzo de Berti. When -Michael Angelo first saw 
this door, he declared it fit for the gate of Paradise. It has, 
been called, ever since, the Paradise Door. 

One of the commonest old brick churches is called Saint 
Ivorenza. Upon entering the chapel, adjoining the church, the 
spectator is struck with amazement at the gorgeous profusion 
of fine colored and highly polished marbles with which the 
interior is lined. It cannot be described. Some idea can be 
formed of its beauty and splendor when the cost of its con- 
struction is known. Five million dollars was expended upon 
it at a time when one dollar would produce as much as three 
dollars will now. When I was a little boy I read, the autobi- 
ograph}- of Benevenuto Cellini and was, therefore, now very 
much interested in his work. His masterpiece in bronze 
stands on the portico opposite the Town Hall. It represents 
Perseus decapitating Medusa. Critics, however, say it shows 
t30 mu2h blood from the neck of the decapitated sorceress. 
The authorities have put a small metal apron on Perseus 
which, to a certain extent, spoils the effect of the sculptor's 
conception of his subject. 

We spent the last day in driving around the suburbs. We 
visited the campo santo, situated, like the one at Nice, on the 
crown of a hill over three hundred feet high. It commands 
an excellent view of the city and is a very pretty place to 
spend an hour. The burial lots, like the compartments of the 
railroad cars, are divided into first, second and third class. 
The first class are for the rich, the second class for the ordinar}^ 
citizen, the third class for the poor. The poor can only rest 
in holy ground for a few years, not over ten ; the rich are supposed 
to remain until Gabriel's trump shall awake them. Their 
tombs are marked — ' ' In perpetuite' ' — which means "forever. ' ' 



Bologna. 289 

Just out of tlie city limits, is a very fashionable drive . We 
tode over it to see the splendid turnouts of the rich citizens. 
It is called the Hyde Park of Florence. It is the place to see 
the beauties of th i cit}^ airing themselves behind their mag- 
nificent carriages and equipments. After our guide assured us 
he had nothing more to show us we packed our trunks and 
left for Bologna, four hours distant by express train. We 
crossed the Appenine mountains ; some of the scenery was very 
fine. After passing Pistola, an old walled city, we looked 
down upon a broad valley completely studded with white 
villas, presenting a most picturesque landscape. 

Our hotel at Bologna had the outward appearance of a fine 
new building, but when we entered the court-yard we discov 
ered we were in a palace over four hundred years old, in which 
one of the Popes had slept two hundred years ago. The 
chambers are very large, the ceilings high and frescoed ; but 
little woodwork is to be seen. The staircase is of pure marble., 
broad and imposing. It has now had the honor of having an 
American Sovereign to sleep within its walls. It belongs to 
Count Puscheck, who finds it more profitable to rent it as a 
hotel than keep it for a residence. 

The city seems well built and prosperous, but we are in- 
formed its business is now stagnant audits future outlook dis- 
couraging. It contains one of the largest unfinished churches 
in the world, the foundations of which were laid many hundred 
years ago. It also contains two remarkable leaning towers 
close together and leaning opposite ways, one finished, the 
other about half completed. These leaning towers are seen in 
many of the old towns all over Italy. 

We arrived in Venice at six P. M. Although its latitude 
is as far north as Halifax, the temperature was warm and 
pleasant. No overcoats were needed in the streets, nor fires in 
the hotels to keep us comfortable. We were recommended by 
an Italian gentleman, whose acquaintance we made in the cars, 
to the Grand Hotel Europa, as the best in the city. It is sit- 
uated on the Grand Canal, in the heart of the cit}^ and close 
to St. Mark's. To our surprise, we found ourselves in another 
four-hundred-year-old palace, belonging to the Giustiniani 
Family. It is in a remarkably good state of preservation. At 
a cursory glance one would not take it to be over twenty years 
old. The room we occupy is very large and looks out upon 
the Grand Canal and best part of Venice. The ceiling is 
thirty feet high, vaulted and frescoed. The stairway is of 
marble and the halls wide and imposing. We at first doubted 
the landlord's story of his palatial hotel, but, while visiting the 
Museum, we found a three-hundred-j^ear-old map of the city on 
which our hotel was marked " Palazzo Giustiniani." So we 



290-' Ventcev 

have occupied rooms ia two palaces since our sojourn in Italy, 
Everything is cheap in Venice, The very best skilled 
labor, mechanics and even artists,, cannot earn over seventy- five 
cents a day. Four francs a day is considered very good wages. 
It does not require much intelligence in the American traveler 
to see the absolute necessity of our Tariff laws. If it were not 
for their protection, Italy alone could flood America with most 
exquisitely wrought glassware,, carved woodwork, musical in- 
struments, furniture,, tapestry,, etc.,. and sell them at a large 
profit for prices too low for native competition. 

We are highly pleased with Venice, It is one of the most 
interesting cities we have yet seen, A striking peculiarity of 
the place is its Sabbath-like quietness ; there is not a horse or 
carriage in the city and but few dogs, but plenty of rats. The 
Gondola (pronounced Gundola, with the accent on the first 
syllable), glides noiselessly through the canals and takes the 
place of the carrage^ wagon and cart in other cities. 

The Grand Canal completely bisects the city in a serpen- 
tine course from eastward to westward. All the palaces,, pub- 
lic buildings and fine residences face upon it or are near by it. 
Its water is comparatively clear and pure, but the hundreds of 
small canals all over the city are the most disgustingly filthy 
places I have ever seen. While going through them,. I had to- 
hold my handkerchief to my nose to protect my nostrils from 
the most execrable of all vile and nasty stinks. They are the 
open sewers of the city and contain all the offal, garbage and 
refuse of the town. If it were not for the three-feet tide which 
rises and falls twice in twenty -four hours, they would certainly 
be most unhealthy places ; but, while it has been scourged by 
the plague and cholera, bad fevers are unknown in Venice, 
During the Plague in the XVIth century the city was nearly 
depopulated. It is said that 44,000 died in twenty-seven days 
with the terrible disease. I saw in Florence a representation 
in wax of the " Plague in Venice." It was the most horrible 
spectacle I ever looked upon. Titian, the great painter, died 
of it aged ninety-nine years and eight months. His pictures 
are found in all the galleries and palaces in the city. When a 
young man, unknown to fame but celebrated as a portrait 
painter, a girl of seventeen, of a noble family, sat an hour for 
her porrtait. She became so violently in love with him that 
she thought it prudent never to see him again nor call for her 
p'cture. A year after he was employed to paint the fresco of 
the Doge's palace. To the surprise of all Venice he gave to 
one of the angels in his picture the face of the young lady so 
perfectly that all who knew her at once recognized her features 
in the fresco. It is said she died of love, and Titian in all hi 



Views in Venice. 



great paintings gave ker face to his finest female representa-- 
tions. There is a very beautiful French novel upon the sub- 
iect, called " Titian's First Ivove." As I had read the novel 
I was, of course, very much interested in the picture. 

Among the most interesting objects in Venice are St. 
Mark's Cathedral ; the Palace of the Doge ; the Bridge of 
Sighs ; the Campanile ; the Rialto : the Church of the Jesuits 
and Carmelites ; and the paintings in the gallery containing 
the masterpieces of Titian, Tintorello, Paulo Veronese, Bellini, 
I/orenzo Venegiano, Ghiberti. Iveonardo da Vinci and Dona- 
tello. I do not profess to be sufficiently skilled in the fine 
arts to judge of their several merits. The new school and fine 
modern painting in Paris gives me much more pleasure than 
all the thousands of religious subjects upon which the old mas- 
ters exhausted their skill. 

While the palaces, prisons, churches, theatres and monu- 
ments of the city can be visited by gondola, the walker can 
find many cozy nooks and quaint old corners which the traveler 
on the canalo nei'er sees. 

We were shown the feputed bust of Othello the Moor ; 
the house of the unfortunate Desdemona ; the place where the 
jealous Moor ended his wretched life after the mUrder of his 
wife, and his memorable " Farewell to all the pomp, pride and 
circumstance of Glorious War." 

We were also shown the place whefe the celebrated case 
of Shy lock the Jew vs. Antonio, the M-er chant of Venice, was 
tried, in which it was decided that hard bargains, when com- 
mitted to writing, are always to be strictly construed. The 
righteous Judge in that case decided that the Jew should have 
his bond, a pound of flesh nearest Antonio's heart, but if he 
shed a drop of blood he should suffer death, because " 'Twas 
not so nominated in the bond." The Bourse of Venice was 
at the foot of the Rialto ; the merchants^ brokers and 
bankers of Venice-, as they went to the Bourse would naturally 
meet on the Rialto. 'Twas there that proud and prosperous 
Antonio would meet and deliberately insult the poor old Jew 
and " rate him about his monies and his usances." He went 
so far as to call him a dog and spit upon him, but when he 
became financially involved, the Jew was the only one of all 
his friends who was willing to lend him money, without se- 
curity in kind. The Jew Saw his opportunity to get even with 
his persecutor but committed the unpardonable sin of under- 
taking to draw up the bond without the advice of his lawyer. 
The case illustrates how dangerous it is for a man to be^ his 
own lawyer, but it also shows how easily a skillful barrister 
can get a man out of a very bad difficulty. 

St. Mark's, the Clock Tower, the beautiful Square, facing 



^2t Bridge of Sigms. 

the Church,, with, the Palace of the Doges and Bridge of Sighs ^ 
leaiiiig from the palace to the gloomy prison on the other side 
of the narrow canal, have been so often painted, oy pen and 
pencil, that any farther attempt to describe them would but spoil 
them by adding paint to a finished picture. Travelers are all dis- 
appointed with the Bridge of Sighs. It is a very small enclosed 
passage-vvay,. leading from one of the upper stories of the palace 
to the prison on the other side,, and would attract no notice 
were it not for the sad luemories connected with the illustrious, 
persons who have, for the last time,, looked with a sigh upon 
the sun through the window of the narrow bridge. We walk- 
ed half way over it and returned to the palace, which contains,, 
not only the splendid apartments formerly occupied by the 
Doges, or Grand Dukes of Venice, but also the Senate Cham- 
ber, Council Chamber,, once occupied by the infamous Council 
of Ten, and the Chamber of Inq^uisition, with its instruments 
of torture and dark, mouldy dungeons, where prisoners of 
state were confined. In one of the dark narrow passages we 
were shown the remains of a mechanical contrivance by which 
the prisoner, while apparently going from his cell to liberty,, 
was suddenly caught by a wooden bar across the throat, when 
by a powerful spring, another bar would strike his neck from 
behind and instantly strangle him. In another dark passage 
we were shown a groove in each side, where a large knife fell 
and decapitated, the prisoner as he leaned forward, over an ob - 
stacle in the passageway ; his head fell into a hole and was 
carried to a depository some fifty feet below,, full of quick lime ;. 
his body fell into another hole prepared in the same way,, so 
that if the body should be recovered the head could not be re- 
cognized. The Inquisition was not,, as many suppose, a reli- 
gious institution.. It was founded in Venice as a means of 
ferreting out plots and conspiracies against the government.. 
The holes in the palace walls where an 5^ citizen, without dis- 
covering his own name, could deposit letters denouncing others, 
as traitors or conspirators, are yet to be seen. One was con- 
cealed by a lion's head.. I will describe it more fully in. my 
next letter. 



The Inquisition, igi 



LXII. 

Venice to Paris — More About the Inquisition— Classic 
AND Historic Places— St. Mark's Church — Palace of 
THE Doges — A City on Piles — Padua— Milan Again — 
Its World-Renowned Cathedral — Traveleii's Hob- 
by — A Coincidence — Battlefield of Magenta — Turin, 
a City of Arcades — Shin-plasters in Italy — Macon — • 
An Enchanted Castle — Lake Bourget — Back to Paris 
and Homeward. 

Paris, April, 1892. 
I referred, in my last letter, to the Inquisition of Venice. 
It was instituted about A. D. 1310, by the Council of Ten, not 
as a religious establishment, but as an adjunct to the criminal 
court. Our Grand Jury, or more properly speaking, Grand 
Inquest, is but an evolution from, the Venitian Inquisition. In 
Spain it developed into a religious court to discover and pun- 
ish heresies against the established church. When it was in- 
stituted in Venice, the noble families were constantly plotting 
and conspiring for the overthrow of the Republic. The influ- 
ence of the rich nobles was so great that it was as much as the 
life of an humble citizen was worth to denounce the plotters or 
appear as witnesses against them. To give immunity to pro- 
secutors for treason, the Inquisition was established. The 
mails could not be trusted, so little holes were provided in the 
walls of the Palace of the Doge, into which anonymous letters 
could be dropped denouncing any citizen, from the Doge down 
to a footman. One of these holes was concealed by a carved 
lion's head. The letter, dropped into his mouth, fell into a 
box with two keys, one held by the Chief Inquisitor and the 
other by the President of the Council. The Doge himself 
could not have access to the letters deposited in this box. 
Unless the denunciation gave the names of witnesses, or re- 
ferred to circumstances sufficient to make out a prima facie 
case, no notice was taken of it. If, however, the names of 
witnesses were given, the accused was at once put under strict 
secret surveillance and the witnesses were brought before the 
Council and closely examined. If a case was made out, the 
first notice the accused received was an arrest and trial before 
the Inquisitor and Council. If condemned, he rarely escaped 
death. The institution grew into great favor and, for many 
years, preserved the State, but like all good institutions its 
virtue depended on the character of the men in possession of 
its machinery. Just as a Nero could destroy all the virtues 



294 Works of Art * 

of the Roman system of government, so a bigoted Chief In-* 
quisitor could convert the Inquisition into an office of unheard 
of cruelty and oppression. Our English ancestors discovered 
the necessity of curtailing the existence of the Inquisition to 
the shortest period of time, and of changing the Inquisitors 
every three months, by which thsy received all the benefits of 
the institution without its evils, and this is what we now call 
a Grand Jury or Grand Inquest. 

As in Rome and Florence, so here the richest works of 
art are found in the churches. There are many places 
made famous by Shakespeare, Byron, George Sand, Browning 
and other poets and novelists. The Rialto is the scene of the 
exciting events in the " Merchant of Venice ;" St. Mark'sand 
the House of Desdemona, on the Grand Canal are frequently 
referred to in " Othello the Moor ;" Lord Byron has immor- 
talized the Palace of the Doges, and George Sand has thrown 
a halo of love around the Hospital where the Maestro (Porpora) 
held his free school of music for the poor girls and boys of 
Venice, and where poor little Consuelo learned the art of song 
which afterwards made her so famous all over Europe and gave 
hear a Count for a husband. Lucretia Borgea also had a 
palace in Venice where she practiced her secret art of poison- 
ing those she hated or who were in her way. 

We were conducted to the spot where the ' ' Jealous 
Moor," after realizing that he, " Eike the base Judean, had 
cast away a jewel richer than all his tribe," ended his miser- 
able existence b}^ plunging into his own heart the same sword 
with which he had slain at Aleppo a ' ' malignant and turbaned 
Turk " for smiting a Venitian and traducing the State, Eike 
many another man, he " lyoved, not wisely, but too well." 

St. Mark's church is unique in its architecture. It is a 
combination of the Byzantine, Roman, Moorish and Greek 
orders. It never fails, however, to strike the beholder with a 
feeling of pleasure and surprise. All the old churches have 
their superstitious legends. St. Mark's professes to contain 
in its crypt the veritable bones of the apostle St. Mark. It 
also possesses a stone, ten or twelve feet square, brought from 
Jerusalem, upon which Christ is said to have stood when he 
delivered his great Sermon on the Mount. There was a time, 
not many years ago, when, to express a doubt as to the truth 
of these legends, would have sent the skeptic to the scaffold or 
the stake, but those dark days are past forever. This church 
is undoubtedly rich with holy relics. It contains pillars from 
Solomon's Temple and stones from nearly all the great build- 
ings of antiquity, including Babylon and Nineveh. 

There is no more interesting place in Venice than the 
Palace of the Doges. Its grand halls. Council chambers, 



Cathedral of Milan. 295 

Inquisitorial departments, instruments of torture, dungeons and 
long, dark corridors, leading to the fatal axe or over the 
" Bridge of Sighs " to perpetual imprisonment, convey a faint 
but sad picture of the past glory of the Doges of Venice. We 
visited every part of it. 

Venice in her best days had a population of over 200,000. 
Its greatest prosperity was in the twelfth century. After that it 
began to decline and its population fell to about 96,000. It is now 
increasing again in wealth and population. It is built upon 
alluvial ground with a rock sub-stratum only about twenty- 
five feet below the surface. The whole city rests upon piles 
driven down to the rock. There are no leaning buildings in 
Venice like those of Rotterdam. Some of them lean slightly. 
We left the city favorably impressed with its many charms. 
The weather was good while we were there and that added 
very much to our enjoyment. 

We now began to wend our way slowly homeward. We 
passed through Padua, a town of quite considerable historical 
importance. It is now very strongly fortified. Its present 
population is about 80,000. It is said that living in Padua is 
cheaper than in any other place in Italy. The citizens claim for 
their town an antiquity equal to Troy. During the reign of Au- 
gustus, it was reputed to be one of the richest towns in Italy. 
We could only look at it for a very short time and form some 
general idea of its constr.iction. In the route from Padua to 
Verona (where we stopped a short time), we passed the battle- 
field of Solferino, and L,ake Garda. The lake is thirty -seven 
miles long by from two to ten miles wide and, in places, one 
thousand feet deep. Its waters are beautifully blue but often 
very rough. 

Passing over a flat and fertile country we reached Milan 
and gave it nearly two days. We had seen the city thoroughly 
in 1888, but now, after having seen most of the renowned 
cathedrals of Europe, we felt a desire to look once more upon 
the gem of the world in Gothic architecture — the Cathedral of 
Milan. St. Paul's, of lyondon, the cathedrals of York, Cologne 
and Florence are noble, impressive and grand, but they all 
have a naked internal appearance. Westminster Abbey, Notre 
Dame, the cathredals at Strasbourg, Orleans, Chester and 
Brussels are venerable and hoary piles, but are imperfect, not 
finished, or overcrowded in ornamentation and monuments. 
They are very interesting places for the student of history, but 
they never inspire the beholder with that peculiar feeling of 
awe or wonder which he experiences when, for the fiist time, 
he looks up at the dome of St. Peter's in Rome, or St. Paul's 
in London. 

The cathedral at Antwerp is exceedingly beautiful and 



2(^6 Milan TO TuKiN. 

striking in its tall, heaven-piercing spire of stone, but it is 
surrounded with mean shops, built up against its sacred walls 
which gives it, in other respects, a common appearance. The 
old cathedral at Vienna is curious to look at because of its 
mosque-like construction ; in other respects it has no distinc- 
tive charms. St. Sophia, St. Mark, and the restored cathedral 
at Marseilles are curious because of their Byzantine style and 
great proportions ; but they are naked within. The old Mosque 
of a thousand columns at Cordova, is only one story high, 
and from without has a mean look. Of all the cathedrals we 
have yet seen, St. Peter's at Rome only surpasses the Gem of 
Milan. Indeed St. Peter's, when first seen, is disappointing 
but it grows wonderful on acquaintance. The church at 
Milan strikes the beholder at once as a finished work. It is as 
perfect as the genius of man can make it. This was consensus 
of opinion in our little party and has been approved by all the 
travelers we have met. 

Every traveler has his own hobby. They may all, how- 
ever, be reduced to three heads Nature, Art and Society. 
Some delight in grand scenery — rocks, crags, mountains, cas- 
cades, lakes and plains ; others seek the works of art — old 
paintings, statuary, temples and ancient ruins ; while many 
care but little for anything but the social intercourse of men 
and women. Among the young people we have met the plea- 
sures of society seem to be their chief object in traveling. At 
Algiers we found our hotel full of society people from I^ondon. 
They spent all their time in balls, drives, billiards and cards 
and seemed as happy as if they were in Paradise. 

When we were shown our room in the hotel at Milan, 
everything looked familiar. The furniture, the outlook from 
the balcony, even the chambermaid looked like an old friend. 
Upon inquiry we found ourselves quartered in the same hotel, 
on the same story, and the identical room we had occupied 
four years ago. This was, at least, a singular coincidence and 
was the result of pure accident. 

After a last long look at the cathedral with the somewhat 
sad impression that we would never look upon its face again, 
we left Milan for Turin. We passed the great battlefield of 
Magenta where the French and Sardinians, under Napoleon 
III. and Victor Emanuel, gained their great victory over the 
Austrians on the fourth oi June, 1859. A few mounds and 
crosses mark the places where the great ones fell, and a great 
charnel-house holds the confused and undistinguished bones 
of the thousands of common soldiers who gave their lives for 
their country. This victory was the awakening of Italy from 
its long and deathlike sleep. 

Turin is the only city in which we have found bad weather. 



TuKiN TO Macon. 297 

It rained nearly all the time we were there. We, however, 
found time between the showers to drive over the town and 
thoroughly inspect its outside appearance. Its elevation above 
the sea is seven hundred and eighty-five feet. It is very ro- 
mantically situated on the left bank of the Po, with the Alps 
in full view. The city was the scene of one of Hannibal's 
victorious marches through Italy and was destroyed by him 
B. C. 218. It now has a population of 305,000. It is the 
most regularly laid out city in Europe of its age. Its distinc- 
tive mark is its numerous arcades. All the sidewalks on the 
principal streets are arched over and vaulted, even across the 
intersections, giving a fine foot walk from ten to twenty feet 
wide, entirely protected from rain. I walked at least a mile 
under these beautiful arcades from our hotel to the river, with- 
out raising my umbrella, although it rained hard all the time. 

We made the acquaintance of the American Consul at 
Milan. He is a fine looking gentleman, from Cleveland, Ohio, 
and a staunch Republican. He seemed greatly interested in 
the debates in Congress on the silver question. He says the 
people of Italy are naturally very friendly to the United States 
and have great faith in the financial policy of our government. 
They think silver and gold ought to be the standards of value, 
but that silver ought not to be a legal tender over a reasonable 
sum to be fixed by the government. Silver is now very scarce 
in Italy and gold is never seen. Italian bank notes are at a 
discount of four per cent. The smallest note is five francs, 
about the size of the shin-plaster currency we had during the 
war. 

We were somewhat surprised to learn from our friend, the 
Consul, that there was quite a prosperous Methodist Episcopal 
church in Milan, of native Italians. While we learn, with 
age, to love and respect all forms of christian worship, we can 
but feel a partiality for the church in which our infant lips 
were first taught to lisp our little prayers to God with a faith 
that only a child can feel and which, too often, weakens with 
advancing years. 

The city of Turin is strongly fortified and literally full of 
soldiers. We saw ten thousand well-equipped and well-drilled 
men, marching out to the Champ de Mars to go through their 
daily evolutions previous to going to work on the fortifications. 
They marched through the wide streets in several columns, 
thirty-two deep, and presented a very fine appearance. 

From Turin we went to Macon, twelve hours distant by 
rail, through the Alps by the Mt. Cenis Tunnel. The scenery 
over this route is equal to any in Europe. The mountains on 
the Italian side were partially enveloped in a dreamlike mist. 
At Ambrogto, an old castle on the mountain top could be 



298 Homeward Bound. 

distinctly seen with the sun shining upon its ruined towers, while 
the base of the mountain was entirely hidden by the fog. It 
looked like an enchanted castle sitting upon a' cloud ; more like 
a fantastic dream than a real mountain scene. Some of the 
clouds were tinted with the golden rays of the sun ; others 
were black and threatening while others, like the clouds of 
life, had beautiful silver lining. And yet I saw travelers 
asleep in their compartments while this enchanting panorama 
was passing before them. The great rocky sides of some of 
the mountains seemed to pierce the clouds and overhang, as 
if about to fall upon the passing train. 

At Aix IvCS Bains we passed a flowing mountain stream 
thirty or forty feet wide, of black and smoking water. There 
are great hot sulphur springs near by, which have, since the 
days of the Romans, a great reputation for the cure of all 
forms of skin diseases. We also passed and followed the shore 
of the beautiful lyake Bourget. At places the tract seemed to 
touch the water's edge. As we plunge from the lake into a 
tunnel and then out again, apparently into the lake, the effect 
is very exhilarating, a new picture being presented as we 
emerge from each of the forty or fifty. tunnels. 

We arrived at Macon in the evening. It is not a very in- 
teresting town, but served us as a convenient sleeping place 
for one night. We have made it a rule to travel by day and 
rest at night as much as possible. Macon is built upon the 
Soane. It has a population of 280,000 and lies about two 
hundred and seventy-four miles southeast of Paris. It was 
the birthplace of I^a Martine. The route from Macon to 
Paris is comparatively tame. We arrived back at Paris about 
seven P. M., having completed our previously arranged itine- 
rary without the slightest deviation. 

We have traveled over twelve thousand miles in France, 
Africa, Italy and on the sea since we left home on the twelfth 
of February. We intend to now rest nine days in Paris and 
then set sail for home. 



PART II. 



American Hunts and Travels. 



The following letters were written at intervals during my 
European travels. They have been chronologically arranged 
and may be of some value as faithful pictures of the times and 
places described. Since they were written, many of the scenes 
have materially changed. My visit to Gettysburg was only a 
few years after the battle. Communication by rail was then 
difficult. Since then it has been greatly improved and the 
place beautified. Roanoke was then in its infancy ; it is now 
a flourishing city. 

It is only by comparing the past with the present, that 
the progress of our common country can be intelligently un- . 

derstood. 

T. J. C. 
February 21 , i8^j. 



Philadelphia to Niagara Falls. 30B 



L 

Philadelphia to Niagara Falls — Mania a potu on the 
Cars — Incidents on the Road — Scenery — Mauch 
Chunk — Wilkesbarre — A Picnic Disturbed-Wyoming- 
— The Beautiful Genesee Falls — Buffalo — How to- 
See Niagara Falls. 

Niagara Falls,, August, 1870. 
The monotony of the journey from Philadelphia to Beth- 
lehem, was soon broken by the frantic screams of a lady pas- 
senger with the mania a potu. The passengers were kept in 
a constant state of excitement by her wild and unearthly yells, 
drowning even the shrill shrieks of the locomotive. She 
rushed like an affrighted fury from door to door and up and 
down the narrow aisle of the car, with her babe in her arms, 
bent upon leaping out to escape some imaginary demon who 
seemed to pursue her. She was at last secured and held in 
her seat while her babe was wrested from her arms, and the 
car in which she remained was switched off at Bethlehem. 
Scarcely had we exchanged mutual congratulations for our 
escape from the drunken woman, when the double alarm of 
the shrill whistle so well known to travelers, and the sudden 
check caused by the quick application of the brake,, admon- 
ished us of some new danger. " What's the matter now ?" 
cried a score of voices. Some said a man had been run over ; 
others said a boy had fallen from a cart which had just crossed 
the track, and that both his legs were cut off. " Poor fellow !" 
said a woman in front. (She was just going to Mauch Chunk 
to see her nephew, who had his leg cut off yesterday by fall- 
ing from the platform ; he had been a brakeman for sixteen 
years. So the pitcher which had gone so often to the well 
had been broken at last). Just then the conductor entered all 
bows and smiles. " The cruel fellow I"" said the woman in 
front,, "to appear so unconcerned after such an accident;" 
but we all forgave him when he informed us that they had 
only run over a cow. 

From Bethlehem to the head waters of the Lehigh, the 
scenery is picturesque and enchanting. The road follows all 
the courses of the meandering river. I had visited Mauch 
Chunk about twenty years ago, and am surprised to find it so 
little changed ; it was then on the stage route to Tamaqua.. 
It is a beautiful ^lace, and were it not for the busy crowd of 
cars and boats laden with coal and the veritable signs of enter- 
prise and industry everywhere exhibited, it would compare 



302 A Picnic Pakty. 

favorably with a Swiss town. From Mauch Chunk up the 
jriver for many miles the eye is wearied with the constant pres- 
ence of the debris and wreck caused by the recent great freshet ; 
the canal from this place was so completely destroyed that 
nothing remains but broken locks and ruptured dams. It will 
never be rebuilt. The destruction must have been enormous, 
and the loss to the co npany incalculable. Near the head 
waters of the Lrchigh, the roaJ diverges to the left, and 
courses over the table lands b2tween the lychigh and the Sus- 
quehanna. The great forests have all fallen before the axe of 
the woodman, and the eye of t'le traveler at one rapid glance 
surveys thousands of acres of what was once primeval forest, 
but now barren waste. 

When within three miles of Wilkesbarre, the line of the 
road is twelve hundred feet above the site of the town. In 
order to descend the road winds down the side of the mountain 
for sixteen miles before reaching the place. The town is 
beautifully situated on the sdulu bank of the Susquehanna, 
which is at this place about five hundred feet wide. But 
few private residences in the most beautiful parts of Philadel- 
phia are more elegant than those along the river front. It 
is the county town of lyUzerne and contains about 15,000 in- 
habitants, and is considered one of the most wealthy towns in 
Pennsylvania. The country at Elmira, and for many miles up 
the river, reminds me of the scenery around Baden Baden. 
The name of the broad valley above the town, however, is 
hardly as romantic as its Rhinish counterpart. They call the 
valley here Big Flats. The whole valley of the Susquehanna 
is soft, luxuriant and charming, contrasting finel}^ with the 
Ivchigh's wild rocky banks, and is well worth a visit from the 
American tourist. 

On our way from Wilkesbarre to Elmira, we passed a pic- 
nic party, consisting of a lady, gentleman and horse ; the two 
former were enjoying their htnch in a beautiful copse- wood 
glen by the side of a deep ravine, and as they did not want to 
be selfish, they had unharnessed the horse and turned him out 
to pasture 071 the railroad. It was one of the most ludicrous 
and serio-comic scenes I ever witnessed. The affrighted steed 
ran several miles ahead of the locomotive, but escaped unhurt. 
The last I saw of the picnic party, they were endeavoring to 
outrun the train with the horse in front of the locomotive. 

The reprehensible practice, so common in America, of 
constantly changing the names of places, led me astray at the 
town of Warsaw. After expending extravagant praise upon 
it, as a charming spot of which I had not so much as heard, I 
was informed that it was the old village of Wyoming, in a new 
name. Thousands of acres of fine farm lands, as innumerable. 



Niagara Falls. 



303. 



stump fences attest, have recently been redeemed from the 
forests all along the line of the road from Elmira to Buffalo - 
In many places large corn and oats fields have no other fences. 
The stumps seem to have been torn from the ground very much 
as one would extract a tooth, ' with the roots all intact ; the 
slumps are then so arranged as to form very good fe^ices. The 
spot where the Krie road crosses the Genesee river will be 
admitted by all as most charming ; the river Esk from Havv^- 
thorden to Roslin Castle in Scotland is not more beautiful. 
The river seems to have cut its way through the hills from fifty 
to one hundred feet deep, and has formed a splendid waterfall 
and cascade ; its beauty is increased b}^ its uuexpejted dis- 
covery in such an uninteresting country. From there to 
Buffalo there is nothing very striking,, except perhaps the fact 
that they have just finished wheat harvest, und :.re commenc- 
ing to gather their oats, which in many places is yet too green 
to cut. We left Philadelphia on Tuesday at one o'clock, P.. 
M., and without traveling by night, arrived at Buffalo on 
Thursday at four P. M. , a distance of four hundred and twenty - 
six miles by rail. The city of Buffalo claims 180,000 inhabit- 
ants ; it is situated upon the eastern end of Eake Erie, and 
from the palatial residences of some of its citizens on Alain 
Street, the tourist at once grants all it claims as being one of 
the wealthiest cities of the West. We were very agreeably dis- " 
appointed in the place. The buildings are not oal}^ substan- 
tial, but an unusual proportion of them are of a striking and 
at the same time pleasing architectural design, and .iLirrounded 
by green, well-shaded lawns, and flowers. There were 20,000 
strangers in the town attending the races at the fair grounds, 
just outside the city. From this place to Niagara Falls is 
twenty-two miles, making the entire distance from Chester 
about four hundred and forty-six miles ; the journey is never- 
theless amply worth the trouble and time required. I was told 
by others who had preceded me, that I would be disappointed 
in Niagara, and so I was ; but it was with agreeable surprise, 
profound wonder, and absolute amazement. I will not attempt 
to describe the Falls. I have read a description by Dickens 
and find it tame. I think I can tell the reason why so many 
persons are disappointed with Niagara ; they do not take the 
time, nor have the patience to gaze upon it from the proper 
places. To see it properly, go first to the Clifton House on 
the Canada side, walk up the shore to the edge of the Horse 
Shoe Fall, then descend to the river's edge at the foot of the 
Falls and gaze up upon the mighty cataract, and if you have a 
soul and it is not stirred to its very centre, pronounce yourself 
a stoic, and go home and stay there, for God or Nature have no 
charms for you. The tourist should also cross the Suspension 



304 Niagara to Saratoga. 

Bridge to the American side and from the lower edge of the 
American Falls look down one hundred and sixty-eight feet, at 
the glorious, descending, foaming and sparkling sheet of water ; 
from thence he should cross over to Goat Island and descend 
the Biddle staircase to the Cave of the Winds, from which he 
should re-ascend and walk out to the Tower at the American 
side of the Horse Shoe, observing the rapids above the Falls 
and the Three Sisters Islands ; he has then, and not till then, 
seen Niagara. I have seen nothing to compare with it in the 
world. The cascades and waterfalls of Europe dwindle into 
insignificance when placed in comparison with Niagara. The 
place is full of strangers, every hotel being crowded to its ut- 
most capacity. We met at the Clifton House, Chief Justice 
Chase and Mr. Thurlow Weed. We propose resting here a 
few days, after which we will pursue our journey over the 
lakes to Montreal, wending our way homeward via Lake Cham- 
plain, Lake George, Saratoga Springs, and from Albany down 
the Hudson to New York. 



II. 



Niagara to Saratoga — When Shai,l the Lakes be Emp- 
tied ?— Morgan's Watery Grave — The Thousand, 
IsivES — The Rapids — Frost in August in Montreal — 
Fine Vie;w prom Mont Royal — Lakes George and 
Champlain — Old-Fashioned Stages — Fort Ticonde- 
ROGA — A Spread Eagle Speech — Saratoga — ^John Mor- 
rissey's Gambling Rooms — Vulgar Display of Dress 
AND Diamonds. 

Saratoga, August, 1870. 
We spent two nights on the boat irom Niagara to Mon- 
treal. Those who have never seen the lakes have very erro- 
neous ideas of their size. At Toronto I cast my eye eastward 
and easily imagined myself at Cape Henlopen, gazing out 
upon the boundless ocean. The lake boats are commodious 
but not as palatial as those of the Hudson ; the state-rooms 
and table, however, are all the traveler should reasonably re- 
quire. In stormy times the lakes are as rough and dangerous 
to navigate as the ocean, but on a calm summer day they are 
as smooth as glass. From Niagara Falls to the town of Ni- 
agara, situated at the mouth of the river, where it empties 
into Lake Ontario, is but a half hour ride by rail over a 
smooth and apparently stoneless country, with little to interest 



Fort Niagara. 305 

the traveler^ except the deep cut bed of the river with its per^ 
pendiciilar granite banks, undoubtedly caused by the action 
of the water in some remote age, when the great waterfall has 
been several miles further down the river than where it now 
is. And so. the Falls will continue for hundreds of ages to come 
to cut its way slowly, almost imperceptibly, but surely back^ 
back, inch by inch, until in the remote future it empties the 
great lakes into the ocean, and converts what is now their bot^ 
toms into rich farms and pasture grounds. Should the great 
city of Buffalo then stand, it will be an inland town. But we 
need not grieve, as we will have slept, peacefully I hope, some 
twenty thousand years before the great Falls of Niagara and 
the lakes shall disappear. It is the settled belief of geologists 
that the whole country around Worms and the upper valley of 
the Rhine was once a lake, which has been emptied into the 
German Ocean by the action of the water of the Rhine, as it 
has cut its way back from Cologne to Mayence in some pre^ - 
historic age. 

Opposite the town of Niagara stands old Fort Niagara, a 
place of great interest to the Masonic craft. It was said they 
confined Morgan in the magazine of this fort, a story which no 
intelligent Mason at this day believes. It nevertheless created 
a tremendous excitement about forty years ago, when I was a 
little boy. It was undoubtedly a stupendous hoax, invented 
by unscrupulous men, forpolitical effect. I inquired of a very 
intelligent old gentleman, (Mr. Thurlow Weed), who at the 
time of the alleged murder, was a co-actor in the comedy with 
Thaddeus Stevens and other great anti- Masons, as to the truth 
of the story. He assured me most earnestly that the Gospel 
was not more true. He said that he entered the fort the morn= 
ing after the murder, with a habeas corpus for the production 
of Morgan's body before the Court ; but that the judge who 
had granted the writ, being a Mason, gave timely notice to the 
brethren having him in charge, and that they, just before day= 
break procured two fifty -six-pound weights and a rope, and took 
Morgan from the Fort, gagged and tied him, and with one of 
the weights tied to his neck and another to his feet, they rowed 
him out where the water was at least six feet deep, and" 
with his head and feet due East and West, they threw him 
into the lake, a cable' s length from the shore. Our boat passed 
over the very spot where his bones repose, if the story is true. 

The boats all cross the lake forty miles to Toronto, from 
whence they proceed down the lake one hundred and eighty 
miles to Prescot, where it is necessary to change boat in order 
to descend the rapids with safet}^ which no boat drawing over 
six feet of water can do. The most interesting part of the 
whole journey, however, is the passage of the Thousand Isles 



3o6 Montreal. 

b2f,re arriving at Prescot. The river St. Lawrence is there 
s^v^eral miles wide, and so full of most , enchanting little 
greea islands that in SDm2 places it is difficult to navigate the 
bjat through them. The scenery is very fairy -like ; in some 
places thi green water is so still and glass-like as to mirror the 
islands in the streams, where they can be seen as perfectly by 
looking down into the water as up on the land. The descent 
Oi tne rapids is exciting, but not as much so as I anticipated. 
Tne boat seems to be sinking, bow foremost, as she plunges 
over the foaming and angrv waters. The steam is all shut off 
and six strong men are required at the wheel, to keep the boat 
in her true course. At Split Rock, on the Cider Rapids, the 
channel between the rocks has not over six feet margin. The 
uaexperienced passenger naturally holds his breath as he sees 
the boat rapidly approach the terrible rock ; it would surely 
strike it, were it not for the skillful hands at the helm. With 
all their skill, however, they sometimes lose their boats ; we 
passed one, a very fine steamer, completely wrecked upon the 
rocks. The rapids of the Rhine, so much talked about in 
Europe, are not fit so much as to be named in comparison with 
those of the St. lyawrence. We also passed the barge used by 
the Fenians, in their worse than foolish raid into Canada. 

On the night of the i6th inst., there was frost at Mon-- 
trea!. The town is about eight hundred and sixty miles from 
Chester, and four hundred from Niagara Falls. It looks some- 
thing like Edinburg, Mount Royal, from which the town took 
its name, personating Arthur's seat. It is built of cut granite 
and seems more like an European town than any I have seen 
in America. The French language is spoken altogether in 
some parts of the town and surrounding country ; this together 
with its gold and silver currency,* several times beguiled me 
into the belief that I was in Havre, which is built of the same 
kind of stone. Montreal contains some of the finest churches 
and public buildings on the continent. The Victoria bridge 
with its twenty-four piers and tube a mile and a quarter long, 
with its single span of three hundred and thirty feet, sixty 
feet above summer high water, is alone one of the modern 
wonders of the world. A drive around the mountain is full 
of interest ; it gives a splendid view of the town, bridge and 
canal, while in the far distance the Adirondacks and Green 
Mountains of Vermont, are plainly visible. 

From Montreal we turned our steps homeward, by way of 
Eake Champlain, Take George and Saratoga. The scenery 
up Lakes Champlain and George is equal to any lake scenery 
in the world. Arriving at Fort Ticonderoga, we took stages. 

*NoTE.— When this letter was written the U. S^ had not resamed specie 
payment. 



Lake George. 307 

for about five miles, over a rough mountain road, where we 
embarked in the boat upon Lake George. The stage route 
carried us over the battle ground of Abercrombie's defeat, 
who in 1758, with 17,000 troops, undertook to storm Fort Ti- 
conderoga. After four days' hard fighting, his shattered and 
broken army returned to Fort William Henry, leaving 2,000 
of the bravest and best of his men dead on the battle field. 
The capture of Quebec and conquest of Canada rendered the 
vast military works of Fort Ticonderoga, Fort William Henry 
and Crown Point useless, and they were dismantled and aban- 
doned. The great hotel at the head of Lake George, occupies 
part of the site of Fort William Heniy, the earthworks being 
still visible. At Fort Ticonderoga the ruins are in pretty good 
preservation. As we ascended the hill with a procession of 
six four-horse coaches, reminding one of the caravan formed 
by Dan Rice's great Show, the agent of the coaches stopped 
them all in front of the Fort, and gave us a regular Fourth of 
July speech, of the most approved spread eagle kind. After 
recounting in glowing words the glorious deeds of our patriot 
sires, and a minute recital of the capture of the fort by Ethan 
Allen, he closed his oration somewhat in this manner : "Thus 
were the hated t^^rants of human libert}^ and American Inde^ 
pendence forever driven from our shore, and our great and 
glorious Republic founded, 

Destined like a rock to stand 
Till Gabriel with his trump in hand 
Shall rouse the living and the dead. 
Until the Sun shall cease to burn 
And the Moon to ashes turn 
Drive on your horses, Ned." 

Ned cracked his whip and the caravan advanced. 

Lake George is thirty-six miles long by from one to three 
broad. But little is lacking to make it equal to any of Europe's 
most favorite pleasure resorts. It sadly needs their romantic 
castles, mountain roads, and legends which give such an ex- 
quisite charm to Heidleburg, and the Black Forrest around 
Baden Baden. From Lake George we again take the stages, 
and after a six-mile journey over a very rough and elevated 
road, from which the Green Mountains of Vermont can be 
plainly seen, we arrive at Glen Falls, a town of about six 
thousand inhabitants, where we take the cars, and in two and 
a half hours arrive at Saratoga, the Baden Baden of America, 
and the gayest place in the State. It is the resort of the elite of 
New York, and the sporting men of America. The races are 
now in lull blast, and the Hon. John Morrissey is here keeping 
a first-class gambling house. The ladies here carry the infatu- 
ation of dress to a ridiculous extent. They appeared last night 
at the grand ball of the season in all the gorgeous colors of the 
rainbow, fairly scintillating with diamonds and glittering with 



3o8 Dress and Diamonds. 

golden jewels and precious stones. I observed several dowagers 
of at least fif! y , dressed like damsels of fifteen, with low square- 
necked dresses which, instead of exhibiting the charms of 
youth, only exposed the ribs and wrinkles of age ; the sear and 
yellow leaf instead of the bursting rose bud. One lady was 
clothed in what seemed to be a snowflake, with a powdered 
wig and frills and a train at least ten feet long. While here 
and there I observed some fair faces painted in beauties red and 
white "by Nature's own true cunning hand laid on," the 
great majority of the gay ones were mere works of art, got up 
by nature's journeymen, and botched in the making. A lady 
of about forty had on her neck, ears, arms and fingers, about 
$25,000 worth of gems and diamonds. The foot of a cluster 
cross nestled on her heaving breast, which was liberally ex- 
hibited by her square-necked dress. She seated herself with 
all a woman's art where two chandeliers cast a flood of light 
upon her diamonds. It was amusing to observe her constantly 
changing position, obviously made to make her diamonds 
sparkle, while her bosom constantly heaved, and with each 
heave the diamond cross dazzled the beholder with its bril- 
liant rays. Her last act was to pick her tooth with her finger 
nail to show a magnificent diamond ring. While loath to com- 
ment on the frailties of our countrywomen, a sacred regard 
for truth requires the exposure. These lavish displays of jew- 
elry, instead of making the wearers, as they suppose, the 
centres of attraction, only make them objects of pity with all 
well bred people. 



III. 

BATTLEFIE1.D OF Gettysburg — Compared with Watekloo 
— The FieivD as I Saw It— The Terrible Struggle at 
CuivP's HiLiv — lyiBERTY Guarding Her BattlepieIvD— 
Remaining Evidences of the Great Battle. 

Gettysburg, August, 1871. 
Two years ago I visited the field of Waterloo, and al- 
though the dust and mould of over fifty years had covered many 
of its most interesting monuments, yet enough remained to 
mark the momentous struggle of the eighteenth of June, 1815. 
Hougomont had scarcely been touched since the day of the 
battle ; the old red brick wall bore the marks of thousands of 
musket balls. The abandoned well from which no water has 
since been drawn, and which it is said contains three hundred 



Gettysburg. 309 

skeletons and the charred gates were very much as the battle- 
left them — ^silent mementos of the memorable day so fatal to 
the glory of France, but so significant of the liberty and civil- 
ization of the world. There also might still be seen " Le 
chemiii cre^iz d'Ohain, so graphically described by Victor 
Hugo ; the hollow road into which the French cavalry plunged, 
causing the panic which contributed so largely to the loss 
of a victory almost won. How little the farmers of Belgium 
dreamed, as they journeyed over that hollow road, and com- 
plained so often of its neglected water courses, Vv'hich every 
rain washed still deeper, that God was thereby digging the 
grave of the great French Empire ; nevertheless, an apparenth- 
insignificant lane settled the fate of Napoleon, as well as of 
the world. 

A comparison of the bloody field of Gettysburg with that 
of Waterloo is by no means far-fetched ; the one was decisive 
of the liberty of Europe, the other of the freedom of America. 
The natural position of the ground at Gettysburg, is much 
stronger for defence than that occupied by the Allies at Water- 
loo ; but while the Allies had 72,000, and the French 80,000 
men, the Federals at Gettysburg had but 60,000, and the Con- 
federates 90,000 men. At Waterloo the Allies lost about 
20,000, and the French 40,000 in killed, wounded and prisoners. 
At Gettysburg the Federals lost about 16,000 killed and 
wounded and 4,000 prisoners, in all about 20,000. The Rebel 
loss was 26,500 killed and wounded and 13,000 prisoners and 
deserters, in all about the same as the French loss at Waterloo. 
The attack upon La Poste Hougomont which was the key to 
the English position, cost the French about 10,000 men hors 
de combat. The charges upon the works on Gulp's Hill were 
equally disastrous to the Confederates. Both battles were 
fought for, and won in the cause of humanity. " Dans la 
bataille de Waterloo, il y a plus que de 7iuage, il y a de meteore. 
Dieu a passe.'' The remark can with equal force be applied 
to Gettysburg ; it was not Meade, it was not the superior 
bravery of the Federal forces that won the day, it was God. 

The battle cannot be clearly comprehended without view- 
ing the ground. The route from Philadelphia is somewhat 
tortuous as well as tedious. The first change is at York, 
which is reached via the Pennsylvania Central, from York via. 
Northern Central to Hanover Junction and thence to Gettys- 
burg. As the train approaches the town, a very good general 
view of the battlefield can be had from the front platform, or 
the large side doors of the baggage car. At the right is seen, 
Seminary Ridge, north and west of the town. This ridge 
was occupied by Reynolds' ist Corps and Howard's nth Corps 
on the afternoon of July ist. It was in advance of this position. 



3io Gulp's Hill. 

wbere General Reynolds fell. Seminary Ridge was occu- 
pied by the Rebels on the 2d, 3d and 4th of July, the nth 
Corps having been driven back through the town to the posi- 
tion seen at the left from the cars, and southeast of the Borough, 
known as Gulp's Hill and Gemetery Hill. In the distance, 
due south from the town, Round Top and Ivittle Round Top 
can be easily discerned. These were the prominent points of 
the battlefield. A carriage, guide and good map of the field, 
all of which can be procured for five or six dollars, are abso- 
lutely necessary. The first place visited was the National 
Gemetery, a very beautiful and interesting spot. The monu- 
ment is a most exquisite work of art, but it seemed to me that 
the Goddess of I^iberty was either too large, or the column too 
small, to be in just proportion to the other parts ; but as I am 
not au fait in statuary, I will not criticise the work. From 
the Cemetery to Gulp's Hill is about a half mile ; the greater 
part of the way we traveled by carriage, which we left at the 
foot of the hill. The point where the lyouisiana Tigers charged 
the works held by the 12th Corps, we attained on foot over 
about a third of a mile of very rough and sterile ground. 

Gettysburg has this advantage over Waterloo ; the latter 
is highly fertile, and under constant cultivation, which to some 
extent, has destroyed its characteristics ; but Gettysburg is so 
hill}^ rough, rocky and sterile, that its features must ever re- 
tain the same marks, and like the face of a man, while it may 
grow old, the outlines must continue the same. The grass 
will never grow here, but the dew drops on the forest trees 
may well grieve 

" Over the unreturning brave — alas ! 
Ere evening to be trodden like the grass 

Which now beneath them, but above shall grow 
In its next verdure, wlien this fiery mass 

Of living valor, rolling on the foe 

And burning with high hope, shall moulder cold and low." 

Gulp's Hill was the key to the Federal position on the 
second and third days of the fight ; the remaining evidences of 
the tremendous conflict still visible, are truly frightful. The 
enemy had advanced about two miles from his position of 
July ist. . The town had been captured and occupied. The 
capture of the hill was of the first importance, and the flower 
of General lyce's arm}- was detailed to the work, but they 
never returned ; they captured the works, but had not men 
enough left to hold them. It is said the Rebel dead lay here 
four deep, and I verily believe the report. Acres of forest trees, 
as large in diameter as a man's body, were torn into splinters, 
not by artillery, but by musket balls. They must have flown 
thicker than hail. How any living being could survive for a 
moment under such a fire is a mystery to every one who has 



Round Top. 311 

seen the ground. It is said the eiemy supposed they were 
charging the Pennsylvania militia, and first discovered their 
fatal error when they saw the bronzed faces and faded colors 
of their old foe behind the works, and in surprise and despair, 
as they were about leaping over them, cried out : " The army 
of the Potomac by — " and fell back in disorder and dismay. 
Others locate this scene at the Peach Orchard. Those who 
entered the Federal works were beaten back with the butts of 
the muskets and with stones, tbe guns being too hot to fire. 

In returning from Gulp's Hill, looking westward, a charm- 
ing picture is presented. The wood which skirts the eastern 
boundary of the cemetery, completely conceals all of the monu- 
ment, save the Goddess of L,iberty upon the top. She appears 
to be standing on the topmost branch of a tall oak, and looks 
like a great white angel, with a wreath in her hand, looking 
down upon her dead and guarding her battlefield. The next 
point of interest is the Peach Orchard, near the Rose Farm, 
and Little Round Top. The hill might almost be called a 
mountain. For its possession a terrific battle was fought at 
the Peach Orchard on the Emmitsburg road. But few marks 
of the struggle remain. Save here and there the lead of 
musket balls on the rocks, and scars or wounds on the inter- 
vening trees, nothing more remains to mark the frightful and 
furious charges upon this part of the field. As we approach 
from the Emmitsburg road the guide points out a field, now 
under cultivation, in which are buried over three thousand 
Confederate dead, who fell in the struggle for Round Top. 
Not the slightest mark remains to show where the poor fel- 
lows sleep. Round Top is two miles due south of the town, 
and the Peach Orchard is about one mile west of the hill. The 
hill is a natural fortress, and seems to be an upheaval of rocks 
and boulders, varying in size from a hogshead to a ha}' stack, 
and is somewhat difficult to ascend with no opposing bay- 
onets or batteries. It abounds also with stone, the size of 
ordinary building stone which, in addition to the roeks, had 
been formed into a perfect network of breastworks. It cannot 
be ascended in a straight line, but only by a zigzag course, 
and by picking our way from rock to rock. It commands 
the entire field, and its possession secured the victory which 
otherwise would have been but temporary. When once occu- 
pied and armed it was a second Gibraltar, which five hundred 
men could certainly hold against ten thousand. 

Meade's headquarters were at a small frame house on the 
Taneytown road about half way between Round Top and 
Gulp's Hill. Two shells went through the house, the holes 
of which are still i;here. The General was sitting upon a rock 
in the middle of the road when the dispatch bearer gave him 



3t2 Relics of the Battle. 

the information that the hill had been occupied and could he 
held by our forces. A beam of triumph enlightened his some- 
what anxious countenance, and he at once caused the news to 
be signaled to Gulp's Hill. 

The ravine at the foot of Round Top is also full of bould- 
ers. At one place, not inappropriately named " The Devil's 
Glen," the crevices and fissures of the enormous rocks were 
found, after the battle, full of rebel dead and wounded. The 
skill of a General who would attempt the capture of such a 
position as Round Top may be more than doubted, neverthe- 
less Hood did attempt it ; the 3,000 graves on the Rose farm 
are the result. While the struggle was being made for Round 
Top, a flank movement was attempted still further South, 
which was promptly met and defeated by Kilpatrick's cavalry. 

The town of Gettysburg is about the size of West Chester; 
it shows but few marks of the battle. I noticed, however, one 
house as we came in from the Taneytown road, completely 
peppered with musket balls. The relics of the battle, such as 
shot, shells, swords, guns, bayonets, etc., have been all re- 
moved from the field, and can be purchased in the town by 
those desiring them. 

If the visitor desires to examine the rebel lines, he can 
make it an afternoon's journey. It takes all the forenoon to 
view the places above indicated. Thousands upon thousands 
of visitors come annually from all parts of the Union and world 
to explore this battlefield, and I feel quite sure that none have 
grudged the time or expense thereby incurred. Philadelphians 
can return by way of Baltimore, in the same time and for about 
the same fare, as by Harrisburg or Columbia. The Northern 
Central road traverses a very beautiful and fertile country from 
Hanover Junction to Baltimore, 



Pleasures OF THE Chase. ,313 



IV. 

A Hunt in Arkansas— Pennsylvania Compared Witb 
Other States — The Hot Springs — Farm Houses as 
Hotels— An Amusing Story— A /.Negro Experience 
Meeting — Little Rock— Character of the People- 
Hunting on the Prairies^ — Rattlesnakes and Whis- 
ky — A Case of Buck Fever— River Rail Bird on the 
Grand Prairie. 

lyiTTLE Rock, September, 1877. 
Bvery sportsman must be interested in the pleasures of 
the chase. The intense excitement of the hunt is but a crop- 
ping out of a part of our original nature ; a retroactive element 
of the mind, which carries us back to the period, when our 
fathers, of ages past, subsisted on the game they killed. It 
was then that the dog became the friend and companion of man 
and though not so necessary to our existence now, common 
gratitude compels us to love him still. When weary of artifi- 
cial life, and tired of the conventionalties of society, with its 
hollow amusements and feverish joys, how we long for the 
freedom of the unplowed fields, and enjoy the peaceful shade 
of the wild wood. To gratify this innate desire, I left home 
on the 28th of August, and by traveling day and night, I ar- 
rived upon the hunting gr^^/unds of Arkansas, on the 2d of 
Septem.ber. I traveled about fourteen hundred miles, passing 
through Pennsylvania, Western Virginia, Ohio, Indiana, Illi- 
nois, Missouri, and more than half of Arkansas, To vary the 
route in returning, I propose to go bj' the way of Memphis, 
Louisville and Cincinnati, thus passing through Tennessee 
and Kentucky. The weary hours of railroad travel can be 
profitably employed in comparing other countries with our own 
State. The longer I live and the more I see of the world, the 
more I am inclined to be cosmopolitan, and yet I never love 
Pennsylvania so much as when I compare it with other coun- 
tries. This may seem paradoxical, but it is not, for while we 
must like our birthplace and naturally be attached to the 
scenes with which we are familiar, we can also appreciate the 
excellencies qf .other lands and enjoy the beauties of other 
countries. 

While Pennsylvania abounds in agricultural and mineral 
wealth, Arkansas is trul}^ rich in her well-timbered forests, 
fertile bottom lands, and undeveloped, but rich prairies, every 
foot of which is capable of cultivation and only awaits the 
hand of the husbandman, to make them blossom like the rose. 



514 Arkansas Customs, 

The climate is salubrious, the face of the country varied from 
broad meadows to rolling prairies, undulating hills and green 
mountains. The hot springs are among the natural wonders 
of the world, andean only be appreciated by being visited. 
The waters are more abundant than any others ol the kind ; 
_some of them are so hot as almost to scald the hand when 
thrust into them. To bathe in them they must be tempered 
with cold water. They will boil an egg or cook a fish in their 
natural temperature. They are highly medicinal, and are re- 
sorted to by invalids from all parts of the earth. The warm 
springs and medicinal waters, so celebrated in Europe, dwindle 
into absolute insignificance when compared with the hot 
springs of Arkansas. 

The people of the State are intelligent, well-informed, 
kind and universally hospitable. True, the laws are seldom 
resorted to for the redress of mere personal injuries. No man. 
was ever hung in Arkansas for killing his enemy in a personal 
rencontre, but murderers for money, thieves and burglars, re- 
ceive speedy justice, and seldom escape with their lives. No 
gentleman, however, who knows how to respect himself, need 
fear his ability to secure the respect of others. The men are 
a little inclined to profanity and undue indulgence in gaming, 
but they are generous in disposition and honest in their busi- 
ness intercourse with their fellow-men. They are exceedingly 
sensitive upon points of personal honor, and quick to resent 
insult. After close observation, I am satisfied that there is 
just as much refinement in the city of Little Rock, as can be 
found in any of our Eastern cities. This is especially true of 
the ladies. They are unsurpassed in personal beauty ; possess 
great conversational qualities and really charm one by the ease 
and elegance of their manners. They possess the peculiar 
faculty of making one feel at once at home. In the rural dis- 
tricts and on the prairies, the people are ver)^ primitive in 
their habits. No commodious and comfortable farm houses, 
barns, and out buildings, such as abound in Pennsylvania, are 
to be seen here. Well-to-do farmers dwell in one-story log 
houses, without carpets and with only the most indispensable 
rustic furniture, yet it is truly surprising to see the substantial 
comfort they manage to extract, from their rude accommoda- 
tions. There are no country taverns for the entertainment of 
travelers, but there is no difficulty in finding shelter for the 
night in the farm houses above described. Some comical 
stories are told of the embarrassment of Eastern travelers on 
such occasions. 

The following was told of a Jew peddler. We will per- 
mit him to tell his own story : ' ' Veil I vas very tired ven I 
arrive at Jake's house on the grand prairie. Jake said he not 



Negko Characte'r. 315 

l^ave much room ; he said I could schlesp ou de sofa by the 
fire, or I could schleep mit der childrens in de bed. Veil, I 
say Jake, I ish much tired and I gess I schleep on de sofa by 
myself. I schleep first rate all night. In de morning I vas 
wakened by the laugh and talk of two bouncing fine girls get- 
ten de breakfeast. De most young vas about sixteen. I say, 
'' My deer, whare are de little children ?" She laugh and say 
^he vas de baby, and dat she and sister vas de only children 
in the house. Den I feel awful bad, and I say to myself-— 
" By Gimminy , ish dat so o-o.''^ 

A correct idea of life in Arkansas cannot be formed with- 
out a glance, in passing, at the negro population. S3tne of 
them are quite smart ; all are loquacious and clannish, espec- 
ially in their religious societies;. Carncross & Dixey's exhibi- 
tions ol negro life, would afford but little amusement here. 
The veritable scenes witnessed in some of the social gatherings 
of the race, far surpass in ludicrous extravagance, all the ficti- 
tious inventions so ably portrayed by those artists. The 
Sheriff of Jefferson county vouches for the following : 

A bitter feud existed between the Baptists and Methodists 
on his plantation. The consequence was that any depredation 
committed by one party was sure to be exposed by the other, 
and therefore, his hogs, sheep and poultry were more than 
usually secure. At last a Baptist orother made a feast, and to 
supply his table, he stole one of his Methodist brother's sheep 
for which he was sent to jail for three months. Upon his 
liberation from prison, the Baptist brethren called a great 
meeting to condole with their afflicted brother, and hear his 
experience while in jail. With great unction and solemnity, 
he spoke as follows : " My dearbrederin Paul was in jail- 
Silas was dare, and so was Peter— and, bress de lyord, dis old 
nigger hab been dare, too. Nobody knows how near he can git 
to God, till he gits in jail. ^' On another occasion, the Sheriff 
attended an experience meeting of the Methodist brethren. 
An old gray -haired saint gave his experience. He told of all 
his trials and temptations, and how he had withstood them ; 
*' And now," said he, " I'se soon gwine home to glory, to 
dwell forever with de patriarchs and de prophets, de bims and 
de cherubims." 

The Sheriff also tells the following ivar story : He was 
an officer in the Union army. One night, on the eve of a very 
severe battle, he was waited upon in his tent b}^ one of his 
colored soldiers who could neither read or write and who re- 
quested assistance in writing a letter to his wife. He took a 
pen and some paper and told the poor fellow to dictate, and he 
would write his letter for him. The letter ran thus : "I take 
my pen in hand to inform j^ou that I am well and that we are 



3x6 French ORicrisr. 

going to have a hard fight to-morrow, in which I will most 
likely be killed and I hope these few lines will find you in the 
enjoyment of the same blessing. After the battle I will write 
you again." He then paused, scratched his head and seemed 
to hesitate ; "well, have yju anything, else to say,," said the 
Sheriff. " I guess dats about all," said the soldier, " but 
don't forget to axe her to please excuse bad writing and 
spelling. ' ' 

Little Rock is beautifully situated on the high southern 
bank of the river Arkansas, from which the State takes its 
name. The name is here pronounced Arkansaw,^ which I sub- 
mit, upon the principle that every person must be presumed to 
know how to pronounce his own name„ is the proper pronun- 
ciation, Webster to the contrary, notwithstanding.* The city 
takes its name from a rock which projects into the river at the 
spot which was the nucleus of the town. It was called Little 
Rock to distinguish it from another very large one also project- 
ing into the river a short distance further up. In 1850 the popu- 
lation of the place was but 2,167. It now contains about 
20,000. In 1803 Arkansas was a part of French Fouisiana,. 
which accounts for the pronunciation of its name. Its French 
origin may also be readily discovered from the peculiar pro- 
nunciation of all words ending with the French adverbial 
termination inent^ such as regiment, government, settlement,. 
&c., the accent here among the descendants of the original 
settlers, being almost universally placed upon the last instead 
of the first syllable. 

The physical configuration of the State varies from rich 
alluvial bottoms lands, (annually overflowed by the rivers and 
intersected with great swamps and small lakes), to hills and 
mountains, ranging from a few feet to nearly a thousand yards 
in height, and from vast level prairies to well watered, exten- 
sively wooded, and undulating lands. The State is rich in 
undeveloped mineral wealth, such as coal, iron, zinc, lead and 
copper. Many of the stories so industriously circulated in the 
North, of the uncivilized condition of Arkansas, are absolutely 
false — true it is rather a rough place for a horse thief, and the 
courts are seldom troubled with personal quarrels — the pistol 
and bowie knife are the general arbiters of all such conflicts. 
To live peaceably here, all that is required, is to conduct one's- 
self just as he would in Pennsylvania. Murders are however 
more frequent, and human life seems to be less secure than 
in other parts of the Union. Fike the rattlesnake, which, by 
the way, is at home in Arkansas, the offended citizen usually 
gives his antagonist ample warning before he strikes. When 

*NoTE.— Since this letter was written, Webster lias corrected his pronun 
elation of the name. 



Preparing FOR THE Hunt. 317^ 

he straightens himself up with indignant defiance, and says — • 
" B}^ G — -d, sah ! I'm a gentleman, sah ' Ef you dispute it, 
sah ! I'll kearv (carve) you, sah !" The offender has one of 
three things to do ; apologize, retreat, or prepare at once to 
kearv or be carved. 

But I am occupying too much ground. Instead of des- 
canting upon the life and manners of the people, I desire to 
give a brief description of our hunt upon the prairies. Our 
party consisted of six hunters, five dogs and one servant. 
(Among hunters the dog takes precedence to the servant). The 
usual mode is to take a tent and camp out wherever chance 
leaves you at the end of the day. We, however, not wishing 
to be embarrassed with camp equipments, resolved to rough it,, 
and sleep under our wagons if we could find no better shelter. 
Our provisions consisted of boiled ham, breakfast bacon, bread., 
coffee, tea and a little whisky. Being all temperance men we 
at first resolved to proscribe the whisky, but as rattlesnakes 
were abundant on the prairies, we concluded to take a small 
quantity as an antidote to their bite, and we unanimously 
agreed that five gallons would be enough. To our credit be 
it known, that we brought some of it back to I^ittle Rock, but 
unfortunately the keg with its remaining contents was stolen 
from us by the ferryman as we crossed the river at midnight, 
so we were deprived of the evidence of our own abstemious- 
ness. 

To reach the grand prairie from Little Rock, we traveled 
by rail about forty miles to Carlisle, where teams were in 
waiting. From .Carlisle, to the commencement of the shoot- 
ing ground is some ten or fifteen miles further. It was near 
night when we set out from Carlisle with two double teams 
well loaded with ourselves, our equipments and dogs. The 
wagons were comfortable enough but without covers, and' as 
it threatened rain, which soon descended in torrents, render- 
ing the night pitchy dark, we had the romantic prospect of 
spending it under our wagons, wet to the skin. To add to 
our trouble, the roads, (which here are only single trails, 
never laid out or repaired by any public authority, and often 
difficult to follow in daylight and impossible to find at night) 
ran through the edge of a wood. We had no lanterns and to 
pick our way through it, we had to get out and strike matches. 
Emerging at last from the wood, we saw a light, and without 
regard to the road, we pulled directly to it. It proved to be 
one of the small farm houses before described. The only per- 
sons at home were a small boy of nine years and his sister of 
about fourteen. Without much ceremony we took possession 
of the establishment, tethered our horses and mules, and pass- 
ed a very comfortable night. We were now on the skirt of 



3i8 Hunting on the Grand Prairie. 



the grand prairie. It is ninetj^ miles long by about thirty 
broad ; looks like a great sea of grass with here and there 
what seems to be small clumps of wood, called islands, but 
which proved to be several thousand acres of woodland. These 
islands are the marks by which the prairie is navigated by 
day ; at night the compass or stars are the guides. The 
prairie is well stocked with chickens, quail and rabbits. It 
is no uncommon thing to raise a few deer. They, however 
are generally found in the wood, or slashes, where from the 
increased moisture, the grass is very tall and rank, thus afford- 
ing them better shelter. We commenced shooting soon after 
quitting our quarters for the first night, and continued the 
sport throughout the week. We started three fine deer, and 
could have secured them all if we had been provided with 
saddles and hounds. They were raised by the dogs about one 
hundred yards from our wagons. Of course, I got the buck 
fever, and would hardly have shot at them if they had jumped 
from under our horses. 

The hunting was all done in the wagons. The prairies can 
be traversed without any regard to the trails or roads. The 
horses were driven in a trot, and the dogs made to range on 
each side of the wagons. If a bird rises within range it is 
shot from the wagon, or if too far off, it is marked and ap-. 
proached in the teams to within about a hundred yards of its 
alighting place, often a quarter of a mile distant. The hunters 
then descend from the wagons and follow the dogs till they 
come to a stand, then advancing slowly till the bird rises, the 
quickest shot brings him down. But few birds, escape when 
thus raised. When they get up in coveys, the skill of the 
hunter is shown in his ability to mark the alighting places of 
the scattered birds, and raise and shoot them, one at a time. 
We saw several genuine river rail birds in the centre of the 
prairie. To be sure of it, I shot one and found it plump and 
fat, just as we find them along the Delaware. In some seasons 
the chickens are so plentiful that hundreds are shot in a day, 
but considering the size of the bird no true sportsman would 
indulge in sach useless slaughter. Twenty-five or thirty birds 
a day are enough to satisfy ordinary ambition. This was our 
daily average during the week, and furnished ample food for 
ourselves and dogs and left a large number to be thrown away, 
the weather being too warm to keep them over a daj^ 

The sport was all that could be expected or desired. The 
company was agreeable and harmonious, and the enjoyment 
was a full compensation for its cost. I am very favorably im- 
pressed with Arkansas. 



A Politician's Treachery. 319 



V. 

A Hunt on the Blue Ridge — A Politician and a Forget- 
ful Party — An Unpleasantness and an Explanation 
— Battlefields and Beautiful Scenery — Roanoke — 
A Wonderful Spring — Tariff Democrats — War Rec- 
ollections A Divided House Good Sport The 

Sleep of Innocence— -" The Elegant and the Bold 
McIntyre" — Hunting on PIorseback — The Pleasures 
OF THE Hunt — Epitaph to Mahone. 

November 6th, 1883. 
On the moruing of the General Election, too early to vote, 
we took the 1 .30 train for Roanoke, Va., for a few days' 
quail shooting among the mountains, at the head of the beau- 
tiful Shenandoah Valley. We are four true Republicans, and 
that our votes might not be lost, we paired with the same 
number of honest Democrats at home. A sacred regard for 
truth requires me to confess that one of our party was a politi- 
cian. He boasted of the vile trick he had played upon three 
confiding Democrats, by pairing with them all instead of one. 
It was the same old story, innocence and confidence betrayed 
by shrewdness and treachery, " O Liberty , what crimes have 
been committed in thy name." 

Upon our arrival at Roanoke about midnight, we were 
greeted by our genial old friend and former fellow-citizen, Col. 
David F. Houston, whose hospitality we enjoyed during our 
entire stay. 

When a hunter strikes the trail of game, he may forget 
the cares at home ; he may, for the time, forget his wife, but 
never his dog. Our party were an exception to the general 
rule. One of us forgot his dog ; another forgot a ten dollar 
box of segars which he left in the car at Baltimore , another 
forgot a pack of cards purchased especially to while away the 
weary hours of travel, and the other forgot to kiss his wife 
before he left home, but he did not forget a good supply of 
medicine, pure double distilled extract of rye, a sure remed}' 
against malaria, snake bites, etc. 

The politician of our part}'- was chosen ^az/z^-^keeper, not 
in the English sense of the word, to preserve the game from 
poachers, but rather to keep the record of our games at cards. 
I have fully made up my mind never to trust a politician — I 
caught him, in the most innocent manner, recording the score 
in the wrong column. I, in a subdued tone, remarked that 
the man who would cheat three confiding Democrats out of 



320 Famous Battlefields. 

their votes would take advantage of his friends, at card. He 
flew into a rage ; sprang to his feet ; thrust his right hand into 
his hip pocket and in a voice of thunder demanded an expla- 
nation. With a mildness and good temper for which I have 
always been noted, I told him I could conscientiously swear 
that he was as honest in cards as Ben Butler was in politics, 
and could be trusted as far. This appeased his honor, and, to 
the great relief of all, instead of pulling out a pistol from his 
hip pocket, he drew forth a bottle of whisky and we all took 
a drink. 

When his hand went into his hip pocket, all the blooded 
Virginians in the car jumped to their feet, expecting to be 
regaled with a scene of blood and carnage for which the South 
is notorious. They seemed disgusted at the denouement. 

From Hagerstown to Roanoke the scener}^ is very pretty. 
We passed very near the battlefield of Antietam. Gaines' 
Station was an outpost— every acre around Sharpsburg has 
been red with war's blood — 5,000 Federal soldiers sleep here. 
Three miles from Sharpsburg the train crosses the Potomac - 
One mile below is the "Old Pack-Horse Ford." Just above 
the ford is a rocky precipice where three thousand Union sol- 
diers fell, among them many of our Corn Exchange Regiment. 
The scenery around reminds us of the headlines to the war 
news — 

" All is quiet along the Potomac." 

We passed the famous L-uray Caves but had not time to 
enter them. We also passed within a stone's throw of the 
renowned Natural Bridge. While passing over the summit 
of the Blue Ridge we were within sight of Chambersburg, 
with the Cumberland Mountains plainly visible in the west. 

Roanoke is a thriving town of about six thousand popu- 
lation. It is in the latitude of Norfolk and longitude of Pitts- 
burgh. In 1879 it had but six hundred inhabitants. It is 
beautifully situated between the Alleghenies and the Blue 
Ridge and is about eight hundred feet above sea level. Moun- 
tains are all around the town. Mill Mountain is only two 
miles away. From its base gushes a remarkable spring af 
crystal clear water, flowing 5,000,000 gallons a day. The 
water from this spring turns several mills and yields an 
abundant supply for the water works of the town. The 
greatest industrial establishment of the place is the Crozer 
Steel and Iron Works. The works closelj^ resemble the plant 
in South Chester. The town has a good hotel, a bank, several 
schools and churches, planing mills, lumber yards and exten- 
sive car works. 

The Shenandoah Valley is very fertile ; there are also some 



A Divided House. 321 

:good farms on the top of the Blue Ridge, L-and is worth about 
$100 per acre. The country is full of iron and limestone. I 
prophesy for Roanoke a successful future. The white people 
are as a rule Democrats, but favorable to a protective tariff. 

The Republican party of the South is very different from 
the same party of the North. The gentleman's party here is 
the Democratic, It is amusing to listen to the war recollections 
of the old soldiers. One gentleman told me he was a school 
boy when the war broke out. He said all the students were 
anxious to enter the army before the war should end and the 
Yankees be destroyed. They were taught that no Northern 
man could ride a horse or shoot a gun, and that the Federal 
othcers tied the cavalry soldiers to cheir saddles to keep them 
from falling off or running awa^-. 

There is, in the town, a house (now two homes), which 
had been built by two men. They had been close friends 
from youth and determined to live and die under the same roof. 
After the home was built, the friends quarreled over a game 
of cards. The feud became so furious that they determined t<i 
part forever. Each seized a saw and never stopped sawing till 
they had cut the house in two, from the roof to the ground. 
They then cut the cards for the choice of the parts, moved the 
two halves about twenty feet apart, boarded up the ends and 
have lived neighbors ever since. 

We spent two daj^s in hunting. To the uninitiated, a 
tramp over the mountains, through the valleys, over seven feet 
high worm fences, under bushes and over ditches, is a little 
tiresome, especially if one has to carry over two hundred pounds 
of man and twenty pounds of gun and shells. 

We raised the first day six coveys of fine birds and had 
very good shooting. About 11 A. M,, the birds seek cover 
and are hard to find. Being somewhat fatigued, by common 
consent we stretched ourselves on the leafy mountain side and 
were soon sounii asleep, dreaming of the election and the 
defeat of Mahone, In about an hour we were aroused by the 
stentorian but melodious voice of Geoff. Denis, our companion 
from Ridley, singing in his best operatic style his favorite song., 
" The Elegant and the Bold Mclntyre." His splendid voice 
echoed along the mountains like the roar of a locomotive among 
hollow hills. 

We spent most of the next morning upon the plantation 
of General Smith, on the summit of the Blue Ridge. We 
hunted on horseback. The horses are well broken and stand 
fire without a flinch. Our dogs were young, and badly broken ■: 
they flushed the birds and could not "retrieve." We bagged, 
all told, one hundred and sixt}^ -eight fine, full grown and fat 
partridges. If our dogs had been well broken, we could have 



322 Farewell to Roanoke. 

shot twice as many. There are wild turkeys in the mountains 
but they, like some voters, can only be caught by a still hunt. 

Upon the whole, we had quite an enjoyable time. The 
pleasures of a hunt are not all comprised in the amount of game 
killed. It is largely made up of congenial companionship, 
open air exercise, good digestion and, above all, a contented 
mind. Our wine, though perhaps not as expensive, is more 
refreshing, and our food, though not as well cooked, tastes 
better than at home. We can look with more cornplacency 
upon nature's beautiful, sun-lit face ; we enjoy her wild se- 
cluded haunts and can feel " what I cannot express nor cannot 
all conceal." In a word we feel free^ emancipated from the 
annoyances of civilization ; we feel like Adam felt before he bit 
that accursed apple. 

At II A. M., three days after our arrival, we bade farewell 
to beautiful Roanoke. On our way home we passed the time 
in the same merry manner that we spent the fleeting hours on 
our journey out. 

At Charlotteville we saw, written with chalk, on the side 
of a freight car, the following epitaph upon Mr. Mahone, who 
had just met his disastrous defeat at the polls : 

"Beneath this sacred slab of stone 
Rei'dses the body of Billy Mahone. 
He WHS dwarfed in mind 
And vvassinjill in flgun-; 
He w-is cho\-ed to death 
By swalii^wiug a niggei." 



VI. 

A Winter in Florida — Double Celebration of Febru- 
ary 22, 1890 — Jacksonville — St. Augustine, the Old- 
est City in America — Historical Sketch of Florida 
— Hotel Ponce de IvEon, its Probable Fatf: — Ameri- 
can Disposition to Exaggerate. 

February 22, i8go. 
This is a fete day in Florida ; it is not only Washington's 
birthday, but also the day that Florida was ceded by Spain to 
the United States of America in 18 19. She did not become a 
sister State of the Union until March 3, 1845. The pro- 
gramme for the day is a great base ball contest between the 
choice players of Jacksonville and St. Augustine in the after- 
noon, and a grand ball at the Casino in the evening, with a 
splendid display of fireworks in the park. 



A Winter in Florida. 323 

The city has about 10,000 inhabitants exclusive of visit- 
ors, which at this time will swell the population to about 
15,000. There are people here from all parts of our common 
country, but more from the North than from any other part of 
the United States. The season for visitors opens January ist 
and closes May ist ; after that time it is too warm for comfort. 
The thermometer now stands at about 80° at noon, but falls to 
50° or 60° at night. We sleep under mosquito bars. There 
are no fires in our rooms ; the windows and doors are all open ; 
in a word, the temperature is about that of June in the latitude 
of Philadelphia. Our hotel is named after Juan Ponce de 
l/con, who sighted the coast off St. Augustine in 15 13, and 
took possession of Florida in the name of the King of Spain. 
In 1 52 1 he was its Governor. De Soto discovered Tampa in 
1539. St. Augustine is the oldest city within the present 
limits of the United States, and, for this reason, is a very in- 
teresting place. The Spanish, French, and English had many 
severe contests for the final possession of Florida. The Eng^ 
lish having possession of Havana exchanged it for Florida. 
During the Revolutionary struggle, about seven thousand loy- 
alists from Georgia and the Carolinas moved to Florida. The 
treaty of peace between the United States and England did 
not include Florida. England afterwards ceded it to Spain, 
but just before the war of 1812 our government seized the 
territory to keep it from again falling into the hands of Great 
Britain. General Jackson was made Governor. 1 remember 
very distinctly the breaking out of the Seminole Indian war, 
which lasted nearly seven years. Osceola was the great Semi- 
nole chief. The Indians were finally driven to the swamps and 
by bloodhounds and starvation, were finally compelled to sur- 
render. In that war Zachary Taylor, Col. Twiggs, Col. Har- 
ney and Gen. Worth were active participants. They were 
afterwards noted for their valor in the Mexican war. 

In 1845 Florida was admitted as a State of the Union. In 
1861 she passed an ordinance of secession and consequently 
became the scene of many conflicts between the Federal and 
Confederate forces. 

Florida would not be worth much without the Northern 
blood, money and enterprise injected into it since the close o. 
the rebellion. Millions ot dollars have been emptied irito her 
lap by capitalists of the North and Northwest. Her great 
attraction is her delightful climate during the winter. We 
have just received a telegram from Boston, stating that the 
thermometer there is at zero ; here it is too warm for comfort 
in the sunshine. Eadies and gentlemen are now promenading 
in their summer dresses. 

Flowers are in full bloom and the ground in the orange 



524 Jacksonville. 

groves is covered with fruit. Insects fly around the electric 
lights almost as large as birds. Snakes and alligators are- 
abundant and the mosquitoes are as wicked as the same species, 
of New Jersey blood-suckers, in July, 

The tourist can take the cars at Philadelphia and need not 
leave the train until he arrives at Jacksonville, The sleeping: 
cars are comfortable and the meals served in the dining car 
well cooked and satisfactory. The route is very uninteresting. 
From Philadelphia to Jacksonville I saw nothing worth open- 
ing my eyes to see. The entire scenery is very much like that 
from Philadelphia to Atlantic City. The time by rail from 
Philadelphia to St. Augustine is about thirty-six hours. 

Jacksonville has a population of about 35,000. Its latitude 
1330.24. It was incorporated as a city in 1833. It has several 
very fair hotels. Most of the streets are unpaved ; some are 
paved with cypress wood, sawed in blocks from the round logs^ 
four inches long by six inches in diameter. These blocks are 
placed on their ends and make a very good pavement in the 
sandy soil. There being no frost to break up the streets,, 
when once made, they last several years. The unpaved 
streets are almost hub deep with sand. The public squares 
are planted with a very pretty species of wild orange and 
lemon trees, loaded with tempting fruit. A visitor to the city . 
for the first time naturallj^ wonders how the beautiful yellow 
oranges are preserved from the depredations of boys and hun- 
gry pedestrians ; if, however, he tries the fruit, the mystery is 
solved. They are as bitter as gall and entirely unfit for the 
palate even of a tramp. 

The Hotel Ponce de Leon, of St. Augustine, is said to be 
one of the largest and best in the world ; it is certainly very 
large and beautiful, especially in design ; in execution there is 
nothing to excite the wonder of the visitor. It is the property 
of a single individual, one of the kings of the Standard Oil 
Company ; besides the hotel, he is the proprietor of the best 
part of the city and surrounding country. At first sight, by 
contrast with the buildings of Jacksonville and other towns in 
Florida, the hotel strikes the eye with most charming effect. 
Its Spanish style, grand court yard, gardens and parks of trop- 
ical plants, fruits and flowers, when contrasted with the sterile 
sand banks, swamps and towns of wood and dust through 
which we have passed in reaching it, give it the effect of an 
oasis in a desert. The extravagant estimates of its cost, how- 
ever, must be taken cum grano salts. I have no patience with 
the disposition of our American reporters for the press, to exag- 
gerate everything they attempt to describe. Some of them have 
gone into ecstasies over this building and have estimated its 
cost at $5,000,000. A little reflection would at once dispel 



Extravagant Estimate. 325" 

such an extravagant delusion. The annual interest on five 
million dollars would be $300,000 ; the cost of repairs and 
running the hotel added to this would swell the expense of the 
establishment to, perhaps, $350,000, all of which would have 
to be earned in four months to pay a decent rent, without any 
profit to the proprietor. The hotel would therefore lose money 
unless it earned from $3,000 to $4,000 per day. No one but 
an idiot would make such an investment. None of the man- 
agers of the Standard Oil Company are fools ; ergo, the hotel 
did not cost over the one-fifth of the sum named. 

I was shown a mantel of onyx, in the grand parlor, which 
I was assured cost $40,000. I do not believe it cost over $2000. 
As before stated, the design of the building and grounds is 
strikingly beautiful, but it is very deficient in execution. It 
is constructed of red brick relieved by artificial blocks of com- 
position resembling grey stone. The interior is finished with 
carved oak and slabs of very highly polished marble. A fire 
once under way, would reduce the whole structure to ashes in 
a very short time. This will probably be its fate. 

We have resolved to leave here on Monday morning for 
Tampa and there take ship for Cuba. 



VII. 

Florida to Key West — Winter Park — Orange Groves 
— Hotel Seminole — IvAkes, Fish and Game — Kissemee, 
A Conductor's Mistaken Pronunciation — Sugar and 
THE Tariff — Good Cars but Bad Roads — Port Tampa's 
Hotel Built on a Pier a Mile Out in the Gulf — Key 
West and its Wedded Fig Tree— A Portuguese Man- 
of-War — Havana — Bad Passport Regulations and 
Worse Money — New Stars — The Ashes of Columbus- 
Sudden Changes of Temperature— Singular Street 
Sights — Theatre on Sunday. 

Havana, March, 1890. 
After a few days at St. Augustine the first feeling of sur- 
prise at it's soft and summer-like climate passes off. We soon 
grow weary of warm weather and long for the stimulating 
breezes of our own active and energetic country'. 

We found ourselves with a week to spare and resolved to 
utilize it by a visit to Cuba. After much telegraphy and an- 
no3dng delays, we secured berths on the ship Olivette, which 
sailed from Port Tampa on Thursday, February 27th. To 
economize the interval we stopped at Winter Park, about one 



326 Wtnter Park. 



hundred and twenty miles south of St. Augustine. We were 
agreeably surprised to find it a most delightful winter retreat, 
as warm and pleasant as Atlantic City in July. In the evening 
and morning the temperature stood at about 70°. At noon it 
reached 82°. There is an excellent hotel and flourishing set- 
tlement there. The society now wintering there is of the very 
best, having among the guests of the hotel several rich and 
ripe widows with fortunes ranging from five hundred thousand 
to two millions. I should take it to be a paradise for fortune 
hunters. Within a squ re of six miles there are some of the 
finest orange groves of the State. We took a drive among 
them and were permitted to pluck and eat the golden fruit. It 
tastes much sweeter when puUed ripe from the trees. We also 
saw pine apples growing, but as they are a purely tropical 
fruit they were sheltered from the north wind by a board 
fence. The hotel "Seminole" has two hundred rooms andean 
accommodate five hundred guests,. It is situated on the edge 
of eleven beautiful little lakes, all of which can be seen from 
the promenade on the roof. Some of these lakes are larger 
than those of Killarny in Ireland, and are said to be seventy 
feet deep. The water is very pure and soft and can be drank 
with impunity. This cannot be said of Jacksonville and St. 
Augustine. 

A little steamboat makes two tours daily of the largest 
lakes (each tour takes about an hour). Alligators may be 
sometimes seen basking in the sun on the shores, but they are 
very shy and are not often visible. The lakes are full of very 
fine fish which are caught at all times by the guests of the 
house. The fish caught while we were there weighed from 
one to three pounds each. Partridges are also plentiful but 
the weather is so warm they must be cooked the same day they 
are shot. A gentleman sportsman the last day we were there, 
with two good setter dogs, brought to the hotel a bag of over 
fifty. I am inclined to think he bought some of them for I 
noticed they smelt rather strong for a day's shooting. He was, 
however, willing to swear that he shot them all in one day. 
While taking a ride along the lake road I saw a fine covey of 
at least twenty birds, almost as tame as little chickens. 

There has been no rain in Southern Florida for about four 
months ; as a consequence the roads are very deep, dusty and 
sandy. It took our two-horse team two hours to travel, with 
four persons and a driver, six miles. The country is very dry 
and has a thirsty and barren look. At night forest fires can 
be seen in the surrounding pine woods. The place owes all 
its prosperity to Northern capital and enterprise. Its latitude 
is about 28°; longitude about 81°. Continuing, upon the 
parallel of latitude eastward, would take us about five hundred 



Sugar and the Tariff. 327 

miles further south than the Straits of Gibraltar and far 
into the interior of Africa. If this place possessed the soil of 
Pennsylvania it would be the paradise of the world. As it 
now looks, it resembles the lower part of the State of New 
Jersey stocked with palms, bananas, orange trees, and sub- 
tropical fruits and flowers. The soil, however, is not sand but 
rather a rich sandy loam. The orange trees will not flourish 
in too much sand. Ugly snakes and poisonous insects are 
quite numerous in the uncultivated parts of the country. 

The lands of Florida can only be profitably cultivated by • 
great labor. The richest lands are reclaimed by canals and 
ditches. Mr. H. Disston, of Philadelphia, owns about 5,000- 
000 acres at a place called Kissemee, about twenty miles south 
of Winter Park. A lady on the train asked the conductor 
what place it was. He innocently replied Kiss-mee ! She 
blushed and said he must think she was green to kiss a man in 
the day time on a railroad car. 

Mr. Disston is spending a verj^arge amount of money in 
reclaiming the swamp land. I met him at St. Augustine and 
received a very cordial invitation to spend a day on his plan- 
tation Claus Spreckles, the great anti-Trust sugar king, 
visited his place a few days ago. From the accounts published 
in the Florida papers he was very favorably impressed with 
Mr. Disston's ability to successfully raise sugar cane upon his 
lands. 

The people of Florida are rapidly becoming Protectionists 
so far as phosphates, oranges and sugar are concerned. With- 
out a protective tariff it will be impossible for Florida to com- 
pete with Cuba, the Sandwich, and the Philippine Isles in the 
cultivation of sugar. Mr. Spreckles says we import $100, 000,- 
000 worth of raw sugar yearly from these islands and get 
nothing in return. He also says that wages in those countries 
are only about ten cents a day. Without a tariff to equalize 
the difference between labor there and here, it will be impos- 
sible for us to compete with them. 

A great drawback to the pleasure of traveling in Florida 
is the great distance and uninteresting scenery between the 
points of interest in the State. The railroads are single tracks; 
there are constant delays caused by wrecks of freight trains 
and the want of a perfect system among the different roads ; a 
delay of from three to seven hours is no uncommon thing. In 
our journey from Winter Park to Tampa we were delayed two 
hours, which gave us an opportunity to drive down to the citj- 
and get a good dinner while waiting for our train. 

Tampa is a town of about 7,000 inhabitants, two hundred 
and eighty miles south from Jacksonville, and about seven 
miles from Port Tampa, on the Gulf of Mexico. It is about 



328 Port Tampa and Key West. 

two hundred and ten miles from Key West and three hundred 
miles from Havana. 

Port Tampa is built on piles and has a very good hotel 
about a mile out in the bay, where the guests may amuse them- 
selves by fishing from their chamber windows. It is a de- 
lightfully cool place and full of fish. It is quite amusing to sit 
on the pier or look out of your chamber window and see great 
pelicans, as large as domestic geese, rise some thirty feet out 
of the water by a lazy Hop of their wings, and then suddenly 
fold them and with head and beak down plunge into the sea 
like a dart upon some poor little fish that has approached too 
near the surface and which seldom escapes. 

On the evening of the 27th we embarked, and at 3.30 P. M, 
the next day we landed at Key West, where we spent six 
hours exploring the little island — -only about three miles wide 
by seven miles long. On our voyage to Key West we saw a 
kind of Nautilus with its tiny sail set to the wind and gliding 
over the rough waves like a little boat. They call it " A 
Portuguese man-of-war " I had never seen one before and 
was very much interested in the little sailor. Some of them 
had their sails down and were simply floating on the waves. 

Key West is not much of a place. It has a population of 
about 20,000, most of them employed in the manufacture of. 
Havana cigars. They make the cigars in Key West to save 
the tariff the Cubans would have to pay on our broad-leaved- 
tobacco, used as a wrapper on the large cigars made here. 
The Cuban variety has a narrow leaf from which only small 
sized cigars can be made. By using the Virginia broad leaf 
for a wrapper, a much larger and more salable cigar can be 
made. This is the secret of cigar making in Key West, 
There are a few handsome buildings on the island but the 
most of the city is built of mean wooden huts None of the 
houses have chimneys. The finest building on the island is 
the new Methodist Church. The island is full of fine tropical 
trees and plants, but has no good water. One of the sights 
of the place is the wedded fig and palm tree. The fig tree is 
about twenty-five feet high, and at its root is nearly three feet 
in diameter ; about twenty feet up the tree a splendid palm 
tree crops out and has grown fully thirty feet above the high- 
est limbs of the fig tree. The union seems perfect and is cer- 
tainly very curious. 

We sailed for Havana at 11 P. M., and arrived in the 
harbor at sunrise. No ship is permitted to enter the port 
•until after that hour. We were permitted to enter the city 
without having our passports vised, but were not allowed to 
depart without having them properly examined by the Span- 
ish authorities at least three days before embarkation. Very 



Extortionate Charges. 329 

mucli like the privilege the mouse has to enter the trap with- 
out objection, but he often finds it difficult to get out again. 
If the traveler neglects to have his passport "Oised in time he 
is subjected to the annoyance of securing the service of some 
hanger-on who as a great favor will get his papers fixed up at 
an extra cost of two or three dollars. The people of Havana 
look upon American visitors as legitimate game^ The charge 
for disembarkation to a Cuban is forty cents, and a further 
■charge of forty cents for a cab lands him at his hotel. It cost 
our party about four dollars each to get from the ship to the 
hotel. The currency of the countrv is in a most deplorable 
■condition ; gold is at one hundred and sixty per cent, premium. 
A $5 U. S. greenback will buy $12.50 in Cuban currency. 
The hotel prices are charged in gold and are very high'for the 
•accommodations offered. I paid fifteen dollars a day, gold, 
for rooms for three, in the third story.. 

Havana and Key West are shaded by tropical trees, such 
as palms, cocoanut trees sixty feet high, date trees, banana 
plants, etc., presenting a very strange and beautiful scene to 
the e5'e of a Pennsylvanian. 

The stars look different from the same little twinklers at 
home. We see stars never looked upon in the latitude of 
Philadelphia. The brightest stranger to us was Canopus, in 
the Argo Navis. It is a star of the first magnitude, about 
thirty-six degrees below Sirius. At eight P. M. it is due 
south about twenty degrees above the horizon. The North 
star is twent}- degrees lower and the stars of the Southern 
hemisphere about twenty degrees higher than they are in the 
latitude of Philadelphia, Cuba is about twenty degrees north 
latitude. Kver}^ degree we go south, Polaris descends one 
degree and the southern stars rise in the same proportion. 
Under favorable conditions the principal stars in the Southern 
Cross can be seen from Cuba. 

Nobod}^ but laborers leave their beds in Havana before 
nine A. M. They have but two meals a day and, compared 
with the bills of fare in Northern hotels, the provisions are 
poor. The universal motto of the people of Cuba is, " Never 
do to-day what may be done to-morrow." We were charged 
ten dollars an hour for a carriage and guide to see the city. 
The charge, however, was in Cuban money. 

The city is fairly built and looks very much like a modern 
Spanish town ; the houses are covered with stucco of a yellow- 
ish tint ; a striking peculiarit}^ of the place is the entire ab- 
sence of chimneys and smoke ; no fires are in the houses 
except for cooking. The population of the city is about 
250,000. We visited the two principal churches, and drove 



330 Cuba's Climate. 

over the main streets and suburbs. The old Cathedral pre- 
sents rather a prett\' appearance in the interior, but is much 
better in design than execution. It is covered with stucco 
and painted in imitation of marble. For a fee of two dollars 
we were shown the rich vestments of the bishop and the sacer- 
dotal robes of the priests and high church officials ; they were 
very beautifully and expensively wrought. They also showed 
us the spot where the ashas of Columbus are said to repose. 
At Seville, last year, they showed me the tomb of the same 
old sailor. San Domingo also claims the honor of his grave. 
The Cubans say that his remains were brought from San Do- 
mingo to Havana in 1795. Columbus discovered Cuba Octo- 
ber 28, 1492. The island i.3 about seven hundred and ninety 
miles long by from twe.ity-cwo to one hundred and seventeen 
miles wlvde. It contains 55,000 square miles and is conse- 
quently much larger than tiis State of Pennsylvania. 

I do not believe Cuba is a healthy place. Havana is 
never free from yellow fever ; the rainy season commences in 
May and continues till November ; the vegetation is rank and 
the temperature seldom below 60° ; frosts are unknown and 
there is nothing to kill the microbes of disease. When we ar- 
rived we found the streets, trees, shrubs, flowers and houses 
covered with a whi e, disagreeable dust ; there had been no rain 
since last November ; the temperature stood at about 90° ; the 
wind was high and great clouds of dust were sweeping through 
the streets, almost blinding our eyes. About 5 o'clock P. M., 
on the second day of our visit, a sudden storm swept over the 
city ; the streets were soon flooded, giving to the houses a 
fresh and clean appearance, and brightening the trees and 
flowers ; SDon the temperature fell to 65°, which they say is 
the coldest it has been for a year. We felt very comfortable 
in our winter clothing. The sea soon lashed itself into a great 
fury ; the waves dashed against the rock-bound coast, sending 
their spray entirely over the lighthouse, and Moro Castle, at 
least one hundred feet high. From the fact that the whole 
town seemed excited, and crowded the streets to look at the 
roaring sea and mad waves, I took it for granted that the storm 
was an unusually severe one for the place. 

In some of the streets we saw sights that reminded us of 
Naples — such as naked men and children. Some were entirely 
nude, others barely covering the hips and thighs. We also 
saw great displays of wealth as well as squalor and abject 
poverty. As we drove out to the cemetery we met and 
passed eight funerals ; two of the funerals were evidently of 
grandees. One of the hearses was covered with flowers and 
was drawn by six horses draped in white ; the driver was 
dressed in rich livery ; the out-riders wore gold lace and 



Wealth and Squalor. 331 

carried great bouquets of flowers, and a long line of splendid 
coaches followed the remains to the tomb. The other was 
very much the same but the horses and drapery were black. 
None but men occupied the carriages ; they were all smoking 
and seemed to be in rather a jolly mood. Just after this 
splendid display, came five or six poorly clad men carrying 
a black pine coffin on their shoulders, in a full run. The 
lid had not been fastened down and every now and then it flew 
up several inches exposing the shrouded corpse within. They 
were running to get the corpse buried before the threatening 
storm should come to interfere with the funeral. We were 
told that the coffin had been hired and that the poor carpse 
was to be thrown into a grave, always ready— a bushel of lime 
and a little earth were^ to be its only burial, the coffin was to 
be returned and perhaps before night some other poor creature 
was to occupy the same box and tiie same common grave. We 
also saw four li!;tle boys, of unequal sizes, carrying thair little 
sister to th2 grave, each boy holding one end of two straps 
upon which the little coffin was swung. Just behind the fu- 
nerals came two large droves of horses, five abreast. The first 
line had riders upon them ; the others had their heads tied to 
the tails of the horses that preceded them, while another horse 
was tied to the tail of the horse ahead of it, and so on to the 
end of the line. As I never saw a drove of horses conducted 
in this way before it looked quite comical. 

There is not much of great interest to be seen in Havana. 
Its chief attraction is its soft, balmy climate, and its tropical 
fruits and flowers. The island is very fertile and presents a 
beautiful picture as it is approached from the sea. We leave 
for home to-morrow. 

Everybody goes to the theatre here on Sunday. We do 
not intend to be singular in this respect. We are told that the 
storm has delayed the ship that was to arrive to-day to take us 
home. We hope, however, to be able to embark to-morrow 
for a more congenial land and better governed countrj^. 



332" Jackson VI LLEV 



VIII 

Florida, Jamaica and Bermuda — ^Jacksonville — Febru- 
ary Heke I^ike October ijst Philadelphia — ^The De- 
generated Sub-Tropical Exhibition Emotional 

Worship of the Colored People — Superstitions of 
THE Rich as- well as the Poor — River St. John — 
Early Spanish Cruelty and its Revenge — Florida^ 
Origin of the Name— A State Thrown up from the 
Sea — Remarkable Subterranean Rivers and Springs 
— The Time Table Uncertain in Florida — Eive Oak — 

A lyANDLORD'S SINISTER SmILE. 

Florixia^ February,. 1891. 

" Away down upon the Suwanee River, 
Far, far away." 

On the twenty-third of January we bade farewell for 
a while to the chilly air of Thurlow and,, b}^ the Florida 
Special, we arrived at Jacksonville on the evening of the 
twenty-fourth,, just in time to escape the blizzard of which we 
have heard so much but have seen nothing. It costs more tO' 
ride on- the special train but the comforts secured compensate 
for the extra expense. We took rooms at the Windsor,, a 
well-kept,, clean and comfortable hotel. The proprietor is a 
Northern man, and "knows how to keep a hotel." Thi& 
house is homelike ^ flodrs carpeted,, table good and beds soft 
and promotive of sweet sleep. The pompano and shad are 
now plentiful and very toothsome. 

On our arrival we found the weather rather cold for 
Florida, The thermometer stood at night at about 45°, but 
during the day it ranged at from 60° to 70° in the shade. The 
winter here has been unusually cold, but there has not been 
frost enough to materially injure the orange trees, or to kill 
the ro§es, I noticed the bananas and shot plants had been 
severely nipped, but young shoots are beginning to sprout- 
By comparison, I would say we are enjoying October weather, 
as we have it in the latitude of Philadelphia. 

Jacksonville (named after Gen, Jackson), is rapidly im- 
proving. It now contains about 30,000 souls,, besides 10,000 
negroes (without souls). Most of the suburban streets are 
almost impassable with deep, dirty sand. A few are well but 
roughly paved with wood, put down in a most primitive style. 
The city, with a few noteworthy exceptions, is built of wood 
and of the simplest kind of architecture. Bay Street is the 
chief business avenue and contains some really handsome and 



Piety and Superstition. 333; 

rather imposing buildings. It is well paved with wood and 
iooKS about as Market Street, in Philadelphia,, appeared forty 
years ago. It runs East and West along the north bank of 
the St. John's River. 

We paid another visit to the Sub-tropical Exposition, ex- 
pecting to find it as it appeared last winter, but in this we 
were sorely disappointed. It has degenerated to a third-class 
show. This is the usual history of all expositions. Some of 
us remember the miserable fizzle our Philadelphia Centennial 
Exposition made in trying to keep open after it had formally 
closed in November, 1876. Instead of setting like the sun in 
a blaze of glory, it managed to perpetuate a miserable exist- 
ence for a few years, growing worse and less interesting every 
year, until its final death from natural decay and absolute 
neglect. " Stc traiisit gloria mundi.''' 

The colored people of Jacksonville, like their brethren all 
over the world, are very emotional and demonstrative in their 
religious exercises and are very superstitious. In strolling 
around the city on Sunday, I passed some of their meeting 
houses and was attracted by the earnestness of their singing 
and the peculiar energy they exhibited in giving expression 
to their devotional ejaculations. I passed a dilapidated shanty 
one story high, the front door hung by hinges made from the 
soles of old shoes and the shutters swinging on one hinge. 
Two or three black hogs were rooting in the sand in the 3^ard 
which was enclosed by old white-washed pickets of different 
lengths. The house was full to overflowing. Over the front 
door, painted in lamp-black, was the motto "God is I/Ove." 
Over the side door an old horse shoe was nailed. I asked an 
old negro why the horse shoe was nailed over the door. He 
replied, "Why, massa, don't yo know? Dat keeps out de 
witches." " Well," said I, " how aboat the motto over the 
front door ?" " O, dat is to keep out de devil." I could but 
smile at the juxtaposition of the sacred motto with the super- 
stitious use of the horse shoe, and yet it started a train of. 
profitable thought. If the motto had been engraved upon the 
coat-of-arms of some great man, and emblazoned upon the 
portals of his palace, how we would admire his piety, even i: 
he did believe that to see, for the first time, the new moo:i 
over his left shoulder would bring him bad luck. I knew 
one of the most intelligent businessmen of Philadelphia,, a 
man of wealth and culture, who implicitly believed it. I knew 
a shipping merchant who died leaving immense wealth, who 
could not be induced for any consideration to permit one of his 
ships to leave port on a Friday. I knew a very intelligent 
and successful farmer who always consulted the signs in the 
almanac before he planted his crops. There is no such thing 



§34 The Lex Talionis. 

as consistency among men. What we laugh at in the poor 
negro, we see every day in the intelligent white man. 

There are several daily excursions from' Jacksonville, but 
of no very great interest except as time-killers. We grow 
ecstatic here over landscapes that would be looked upon with 
indifference at home. 

The river St. John takes a short turn eastward at Jackson- 
ville and continues in that course for about twenty-three miles 
to the sea. The daily excursion to Mayport, at the mouth of 
the river, is of some interest because of the historical events it 
recalls. The remains of two old forts at the mouth of the river 
revive some of the tragic history ' of Florida. Some French 
Huguenots tried to efifec!; a settleaient here and built the forts 
to defend the river. They called the river " Rivere deMai," 
(River May) ; their settlement thej^ named " Maiporte, " 
(Mayport). A Spanish mariner, named Menendez, captured 
the forts and put all his prisoners to death — and this, too, after 
they had surrendered and, by all the laws of war, were entitled 
to be treated as prisoners. To excuse his barb irons cruelty 
he caused a placard to be set up over the dead prisoners bear- 
ing this inscription — ■" Executed, not as French soldiers; but 
as heretics." Two years later Dominique de Gowzes, a sailor 
commanding a French fleet, re-captured the place, and by 
authority of the lex talionis he hung the entire garrison. In" 
imitation of the Spanish conqueror, he also caused a placard 
to be nailed upon the trees on which his prisoners were left 
hanging, with this inscription painted in black — ■■" Hung, not 
as Spaniards, but as murderers." The retaliation proved 
effectual — no more prisoners were hung. The events above 
mentioned transpired about A. D. 1564. 

There are several theories as to the origin of the name 
" Florida." The best authenticated theory is that it derived 
its name from the Spanish feast day on which it was discov- 
ered, " Pascha Floridum," meaning the commencement of 
Easter. Ponce de Teon first discovered the land on that day, 
and from " Floridum " the name " Florida " was derived. 

Geologically speaking, Florida is a remarkable State. It 
has evidently, at one time, been covered by the sea. Its sub- 
stratum is a shelly rock. It is fnll of most remarkable fresh 
water springs, some of which are very deep and vomit forth 
immense quantities of water. There is a spring near Talla- 
hasse which has been sounded to the depth of over twelve 
hundred feet. Silver Spring, near Ocala, supplies a river in 
itself. A large three-decked steamboat comes up about five 
miles from the confluence of the waters of the spring with the 
Ocklawaha river. The water is twenty feet deep at the spring 
-and continues of an average depth of ten feet and an average 



Leisurely Railway Trains. 355 

width of fifty feet for at least five miles, until it empties inta 
the Ocklawaha. There seems to be a system of subterranean 
rivers under the calcareous rock, which break out through its 
fissures. After the Charleston earthquake one of the fissures 
in the rock at Silver Spring opened about a foot and very per- 
ceptibly increased the flow of the spring. This fissure has 
been sounded to the depth of eighty feet. 

After resting four days at Jacksonville, we settled our 
intended itinerary as follows : From Jacksonville to Live Oak,, 
toward Tallahasse ; Live Oak to New Brandford, at the head 
of navigation of the Suwanee ; from there down the river to 
the Gulf and over the Gulf to Cedar Key ; from Cedar Key b}' 
rail to Waldo, and from there to Silver Spring ; from Silver 
Spring to Ocala (from which I now write), and from there to 
Tampa ; thence to Port Tampa, where we will embark for 
Jamaica ; a sea voyage of five days ; from Jamaica we will 
mal^e a sea voyage to Bermuda and from there by ship to New 
York. 

We left Jacksonville at seven A. M. and arrived at Live 
Oak about eleven A. M. Here we spent a day, which is amph^ 
sufficient. The arrival and departure of tbe trains is very 
uncertain. We concluded, after taking a stroll over the town, 
to continue our journe}^ to New Brandford and take the boat 
at eight A. M the next day for our trip down the Suwanee. 
We were informed by the landlord at Live Oak that the train 
would arrive about two P. M. We got our dinner and took 
our seats on the porch awaiting the train till after three, when 
I thought it best to inquire at the telegraph office when the 
train was expected. The operator said it had been delayed 
three hours and would arrive at five. We waited till five, when 
I ventured to make some further inquiry and was informed 
that by reason of some other delay it would not arrive before 
seven. We waited until half-past seven, when I got very mad,, 
engaged a room for the night and went to bed. We were in- 
formed the next morning that the train did not get there till 
about eleven o'clock at night. We were to take the train the 
next morning at 6.40 for New Brandford. The cook seemed 
provokingly'slow in getting our breakfast ready. We could 
not afford to miss the train as the boat was to start at eight 
A. M. The landlord smiled. We sat down to breakfast at 
seven A. M. ; had hardly taken our seats when along came 
the train. We were about siezing what food we could la}' our 
hands on and running for the train, when the landlord smiled 
again. " Don't hurry," said he, " the train always waits till 
breakfast is over. I will hold it till you finish your breakfast. ' ' 
So we deliberately finished our breakfast and took our seats 
in the train. I went into the smoker to enjoy a cigar and 



336 New Brandfqrd. 

discovered thecause of the landlord's sinister smile. There sat 
the conductor and engineer eating their breakfast, which had 
been brought over from the hotel. 

Ivive Oak is the county seat. It has a court house and 
jail, three or four very good stores, a hotel and seven Live Oak 
trees. The sheriff of the county is a Jew, and is very fond of 
showing himself to the citizens on horseback. He is a fine 
looking fellow and rides a good horse with true Southern 
grace 

After the train started I asked the conductor if we would- 
reach New Brandford in time for the. boat down the Suwanee. 
He looked at me rather inquiringly, and I at once saw upon 
^his face the same sinister smile I had noticed on the face of 
our genial landlord at L,ive Oak. He simply said, *' The boat 
won't go till we get there." 

When we arrived at New Brandford we met the obliging 
purser of the boat at the station. He informed us that the 
boat bad just been supplied with a new boiler, which had not 
yet been passed by the inspector, and that she could not start 
without her certificate. He advised us to take rooms at the 
hotel for the night and that we should have at least an hour's 
notice before the starting time. We spent just one day at the 
hotel and, all things considered, we were very well entertained 
by the kind and obliging landlady who, with her interesting 
little daughter, did all she could to make our sojourn as 
agreeable as possible. Of course we did not expect to find 
Jacksonville or St. Augustine hotels out at the head of the old 
Suwanee. We had a reasonably good bed and abundance of 
food, and the kindness and solicitude of the landlady made 
our pillows soft and gave a relish to our meals. 



IX. 

New Brandford— Unpunished Assassins-^La Grippe in 
Florida--More Delays — ^One Hundred and* Five Miles 
Down the Suwanee River— Sulphur Springs — Alliga- 
tors, Turtles and Wild Turkeys — Cedar Key — Shut 
Out of a Hotel by the Sheriff— A Picnic— Silver 
Springs — The Ocklawaha— How They Settled a Dis- 
pute OVER THE Title to the Silver Spring Hotel-^ 
Suggestive Names for Florida Towns. 

Florida, Februar)^ 11, 1891. 
New Brandford is comparatively a new town. I would, 

at a rough guess, estimate its population as about five hundred. 



New Brandford. 337 

It has some very good stores. Its people seem industrious 
and kindly disposed towards strangers. It was here that a 
United States Marshal wa^ shot by a colored barber. He was 
shot in the dining-room of the hotel where we stopped. It 
was here also that a United States Detective was shot about 
seven months ago. His murderer is now in jail at Live Oak, 
awaiting trial. His chances for escape are about even, as the 
people of the place seem to think that he ought to be hung 
but doubt whether he will be, as he is reported to be well off 
and has good lawyers to defend him. 

The weather at New Brandford is very summerlike, but 
we were surprised to find almost everybody sick with la grippe. 
It seems to be more fatal here than at home. Unless treated 
with great care it runs into pneumonia with fatal consequences. 
The doctors here adopt a most heroic treatment. They bleed, 
blister, and dose their patients with calomel and quinine. The 
landlady at the Ivy House, where we rested while at New 
Brandlord, informed us that she used over a bushel of meal in 
poultices on the chest of one patient. The treatment is said 
to be very successful in either curing or killing the patients. 
Patients from the North seem to recover very rapidly, while 
those to the manor born are a long time getting well. 

About eleven A. M. on the s.icond day of our arrival we re- 
ceived the welcome news that the boat would start in half an 
hour. We packed up our luggage and were on board in a few 
minutes. After some delay she started down the river with 
the inspector on board. After going about two miles she 
stopped suddenly and began to turn her bow up the river. 
Something was wrong with the new machinery and she went 
back to her wharf to be again overhauled. At last, about 
three P. M., she started again down the beautiful and pict- 
uresque stream. It is about one hundred and five miles 
from New Brandford to the Gulf. The river is remarkable for 
its dissimilarity to any other river I have ever sailed upon. It 
is about as wide as the Schuylkill at Philadelphia. At New 
Brandford there are two beautiful sulphur springs. They 
are funnel-shaped about one hundred feet in diameter. The 
water acts almost immediately upon the kidneys and bowels 
and is as clear as crystal, and sapphire colored. The}' are 
from twenty-five to thirty feet deep and are full of large fish. 
The water is much warmer than that of the river, which causes 
a slight mist to hang around the springs. They discharge a 
large volume of water into the river. The smallest object in 
the bottom can be clearly seen. The water of the river looks 
almost black, but when dipped up it is perfectly clear and but 
slightly tinged with amber. It is very good soft water and is 
drunk freely by the watermen and natives. The river is now 



338 The Suvvanee River. 



about fift;2i feet b^low high water mark. It has bluff banks 
on ea^h side for many miles ; no marshes and but few flags or 
splatter docks. Great forest trees of various species grow 
dovvn to the water's edge. The face of the water is so placid 
and mirror-like ; so smooth and unrippled that the trees on the 
shore, th2 clouds, and even the starry heavens can be seen as 
distinctly by looking down in the water as by looking up to the 
sky. The great cypress trees are draped with flowing moss, 
hanging in pendants from three to ten feet long and waving in 
the geutle breeze in a very fairy-like manner. The woods on 
the shores consist of cypress, spruce, maple, bay, pine, live 
oak and palmetto trees. SDme of the palmettos are fifty feet 
high. The colors of the foliage are as variable as the trees, 
from the pale gray moss on the leafless cypress to all the 
shades of green, yellow and red. We saw one alligator, several 
wild turkeys, any quantity of ducks and turtles, buzzards 
and eagles without number. The woods on the right bank 
going down the stream, abound in game, from the shy partridge 
up to the wild turkey, and from the frisky squirrel to the fleet- 
footed deer. As we approach the Gulf the river widens and 
becomes more shallow. Around its mouth are many small 
islands, some perfectly round, others crescent-shaped ; some 
oval and others in long strips. The aquatic flags around the 
islands and along the edge of the river, as we near the mouth, 
look at a little distance in the sunlight like beautiful em- 
broidery, while the palmetto trees give a charming effect to 
the background. 

Our boat is called the "Belle of Suwanee," and is worthy 
of her pretty name. She has first-class machinery and is safe 
and comfortable. She has staterooms for the accommodation 
of from forty to fifty passengers with a good steward, substan- 
tial table and comfortable berths. We spent as pleasant a 
night on the boat as we have at any of the hotels on our route. 
We arrived at Cedar Key on the Gulf of Mexico, about six 
P. M., and through the kindness of the captain we were per- 
mitted to keep our stateroom and sleep on the boat the second 
night. I cannot speak too favorably of the captain and his 
of&cers. They were kind, obliging and courteous from the 
time we embarked till we left the boat. Thus, after all our 
annoying delays and many disappointments, we were fully 
compensated for all our trouble. After all, it seems to me that 
the sweetest enjoyments of life often result from the agreeable 
surprises of previous disappointments. We would not have 
missed our trip down the Old Suwanee for ten times its trouble 
aid cost. Hereafter there will be no such delays. The beau- 
tiful ' ' Belle of Suwanee ' ' will make regular semi-weekly trips 
from New Brandford to Cedar Key. Passengers will spend 



Stlver Spring. 339 

one night on the boat much more agreeably than at any hotel. 
The navigation of the river is as safe and easy by night as by 
day. The shadow of the tall trees on the banks at night ex- 
tends about fifty feet from the shores, leaving a clear, silvery 
line in the center of the river. All the pilot has to do is to 
follow this line and he will always be in the middle of the 
stream. The shores are so bluff that the boat can be moored to 
a tree anywhere along the river and a landing effected in many 
places by simply stepping ashore. 

At Cedar Key we stepped from the boat to the cars and in 
three hours we were at Waldo where we changed cars for Sil- 
ver Spring at which place we expected to take dinner, but as 
usual in Florida, our engine got out of order and we were de- 
la5^ed about four hours. We had to wait for a freight train to 
push us to the next station, where we were informed we could 
lunch. When we arrived, being all hungry, there was a ge:i- 
eral rush for the hotel, about three hundred yards distant. To 
our horror and dismay we were informed that the sheriff had 
just seized the place and that nothing could be had either for 
love or money. The next break was for the only grocery in 
the settlement. We bought crackers and sardines and had a 
very agreeable little picnic under a pine tree . The event made 
all the passengers friends and we were surprised to find several 
persons who were acquainted with friends of ours. This 
agreeable intercourse continued until it was broken up next 
day, the boat and cars carrying us in different directions per- 
haps never to meet again. 

One day is enough for Silver Spring and yet it ought to 
be seen by every traveler in Florida. The spring looks like a 
great mill dam without the dam. A full grown river comes 
suddenly to the surface. The steamboat from Palatka lies 
moored at the head of the spring ready to start on her dail}^ 
trip. We made a thirty-mile excursion by boat, down the 
Spring Run, about ten miles, to its confluence with the Ockla- 
waha, and up that river as far as we could sately go. The 
Ocklawaha above its junction with the Silver Spring Run is full 
of snags ; we struck two while going up the stream. We saw 
a very large alligator basking in the sun, and caught some very 
fine large black bass. The large hotel that formerly stood at 
Silver Spring has been burned. The proprietor had a lawsuit 
about the title to the land on which it stood. To end the dis- 
pute he burned the hotel after which the land was not worth 
further contention, and so the lawsuit ended. 

To read the advertisement of stopping places along the 
river from Silver Spring to Palatka, one would suppose its 
banks to be studded with thriving towns. In reality they are 
but landing places to deliver freight and take on wood. Many 



J40 Ogtala to Tamfa, 



of them have not as much as a single house; some only a small 
shed. The names of the different stopping places are very 
suggestive— such as " Old Man's Gut," '^' Hell's Half Acre," 
etc. I bslieve from what I have seen of some of these landing; 
places,, that to be compelled to live upon one of these *" Half 
Acres " would be " Hell " enough for the greatest sinner. 

We are now very comfortably quartered at Ocala. In a 
few days we will leave for the new hotel at Tampa Bay, said 
to rival the Ponce de I<,eon at St. Augustine. On the twelfth, 
we sail for Jamaica. 



X 

OCAI.A TO Tampa — ■ Farmers' AlIvIAnce Exhibition at- 
Ocala — Sunshine a Great Source of Wealth — A 

TVVENTY-TWO-POUJND SwEET POTATO — AlL DEMOCRATS 

Cars on Time for Once — -The Great Tampa Hotel — 
Sad Fate of a Young Englishman. 

Tampa,. February, 1891, 

All the little towns of Florida are called cities. Ocala has 
a population of about four thousand. It is the seat of Justice 
of the county of Marion. The city is chiefly built of brick. 
The principal square with the Court House in the centre looks 
verj^ well. It has two National Banks and a Trust Company,, 
all doing a thriving business. I should say that the city is 
situated upon the backbone of the State, The public square 
and principal buildings are on the highest ground. The 
drainage is from the square both ways to the Ocean and to the 
. Gulf. The land in Marion county is the best in Florida for 
agricultural purposes, so the people of Ocala say, and judging 
from its display in the Exposition now being held here, I be- 
lieve they speak the truth. The only undulating land I have 
seen in Florida is in this county. The city has several good 
hotels — one of them, " The Ocala House," — may be classed 
among the best in the State. It is quite large and somewhat 
imposing, occupying in front the entire length of the square. 

The Farmers' Alliance are now holding at Ocala quite a 
good exposition of the fruits, flowers and general products of 
the State. To me it was much more interesting than the Sub- 
tropical Exposition of Jacksonville. One can learn more of 
the resources of Florida in a day, by a careful study of the Ex- 
position, than by months of observation while traveling over 
the State. It must be remembered that railroads do not pass 



Farmers' Exhibition. 341 

through the best part of any country. Florida has many very 
lucrative sources of wealth. Her timber, turpentine, resin, 
cotton, oranges and vegetables of all kinds, fruits, flowers and 
simshine are the best in the world. Her sunshine in winter 
alone brings millions of dollars to the State. Indeed without 
it, she would not have secured her present rapid development 
for many years to come. I saw a sweet potato in the Exposition, 
that weighed twenty-two pounds ; another weighed sixteen 
pounds. One cluster of cocoas had forty-one full-sized nuts on 
a single stem. The cluster was as large as a barrel and weigh- 
ed over one hundred pounds. Beside the ordinary productions 
of the land, the phosphate deposits throughout the State are 
immensely valuable. The redeemed swamp territory bids fair 
to rival I^ouisiana in the production of sugar cane. It seems 
to me that Florida has a very bright prospect for further devel- 
opment before her. There is no good reason why her swamps 
should not be drained and be devoted to the cultivation of sugar 
and rice. 

Among her sister States Florida is but a little girl She has 
been very much neglected and has not cared to show her many 
charms. After awhile she will develop into a full grown belle 
and will, I have no doubt, have many admirers if not lovers, 
provided, like many other belles, she does not dissipate her 
charms or put too high a price upon her favors. At present the 
State is full of Northern enterprise. Politics, for the present 
at least, see ins to have been relegated to the unemployed and 
is little agitated among business men. Perhaps the quietness 
in politics may be accounted for on the ground of the absence 
of necessity. The State is strongly Democratic. Nothing, 
however, could induce the people to go back to the old lazy 
days of slavery. 

After spending three days very agreeably in Ocala we 
packed our trunks and came to Tampa, five hours by rail fur- 
ther South. For once the cars were on time. We allowed 
ourselves fifteen minutes to make the train which, under ordi- 
nary circumstances, would have been more than sufficient. 
Our heavv trunk was sent ahead in an express wagon. On 
our way to the depot we saw a great crowd of excited people 
around a wounded and bleeding man. A little further on we 
found our large trunk lying in the middle of the road. The 
horse and express wagon were nowhere in sight. We had to 
find another wagon to carry our trunk to the depot and got 
there just in time to board the train, which was on time to the 
second. The horse of the express wagon had run awa}^,. 
broken the wagon and nearly killed the driver. 

Tampa is the metropolis of the Gulf rr s Jacksonville is of 
the Atlantic. Until recently it was a sleepy old town of dirty 



342 Tampa Bay Hotel. 

streets and wooden buildings. It has greatly improved within 
the past three years. The town is being metamorphosed into 
a brick-built city. There are fine foreign steamers now sailing 
weekly from Port Tampa. The city is situated at the head of 
Tampa Bay at the mouth of Tillsborough river. The great 
Tampa Bay Hotel, just opened, stands on an eminence on the 
west side of the river and occupies a very conspicuous position. 
it is one of the finest hotels in the world. In my judgment it 
is superior to the world-renowned Ponce de I^eon at St. Au- 
gustine. It is very large, about six hundred feet in front, ex- 
clusive of the dining room and outbuildings. In approaching 
it from the railroad it does not present a very prt-} ossessing 
appearance. It is built of rough, reddish brick in the Moor- 
esque order of architecture, with six tall minarets, crowned 
with the Moorish half moon. All the columns and arches are 
Moorish. The grand banqueting hall (dining room) is an im- 
mense building in itself, with a very large dome, a la St. Peter' s. 
It is connected with the main building by a semi-circular cor- 
ridor, very airy and attractive, and decorated with paintings, 
engravings, sofas, antique chairs, columns and statuary. The 
building faces the river over a lovely ten-acre lawn, beauti- 
fully laid out in walks, flower beds and groves of sub-tropical 
trees, such as palmettos, cocoanut, bay, oleander, magnolia, 
lemon and orange trees. The river bank has been walled and 
the marsh filled with rich river earth. The whole lawn, not 
occupied with flower beds, is carpeted by a sward of rich green 
grass, kept nicely clipped. This feature is something new in 
Florida, as green grass is seldom seen. 

The entire building is carpeted, furnished and decorated 
in a most luxuriant manner and with exquisite taste. The 
walls are hung with fine oil paintings, the alcoves are adorned 
with marble, bronze and silvered statuary, while at every turn 
richly-gilt mirrors reflect your image and duplicate the gor- 
geous scenery around. All the decorations are in harmony with 
the architecture, and represent Moorish or Spanish scenes and 
subjects. It is impossible to give a perfect pen picture of the 
building and its surroundings ; it must be seen and closely 
studied to be fully appreciated. I have seen most of the 
world's great hotels, but have seen few that surpass the " Tampa 
Bay." It is remarkable for its originalitj^ of design and its 
dissimilarity to any other hotel, and will compare favorably 
with the best. As before stated at the first view the ej^e feels 
a sense of disappointment but, like all great architectural 
structures, it grows in beauty as we become better acquainted 
with it. 

The whole building is lighted with many thousand elec- 
tric lights and when fully illuminated presents a fairy -like 



A Sad Death, 343- 

spectacle. Some idea will be conveyed of the size of the 
building and grounds when we consider the fact that it occu- 
pies over seventeen acres of land. This includes the lawn and 
curtilage. 

The population of Tampa is now about six thousand. I 
have no doubt but that in the near future it will be one of the 
most flourishing cities in Florida. There is but one drawback 
to the pleasure of a winter sojourn here ; it is too warm and is 
infested with swarms of hungry and very wicked mosquitoes.- 
We have been sleeping with our windows open all night, with 
only a sheet for our covering and have been uncomfortably 
warm. But we cannot expect to enjoy the genial sunshine of 
summer and at the same time escape the little annoyances in- 
cident to all warm latitudes. If we want to get away trom 
the snakes and mosquitoes of Florida we have but to go home. 

Speaking of snakes reminds me of a very sad adventure, 
of a young Englishman a few days ago near St. Augustine. 
His parents are very wealthy and influential citizens of Eng- 
land and sent their son to see America and enjoy the pleasures 
of traveling and hunting, of which the better class of English- 
men are so fond. With a companion he was out in the woods 
on a hunting expedition. He had neglected his leather leg- 
gins, supposing there were no snakes so near the town. He 
was bitten by a large rattlesnake and despite every effort to 
save him, he died in two days after the bite. His companion 
endeavored to suck the poison from the wound and came near 
losing his life from a slight fever blister on his lip. This will 
be sad news to go home to his parents. 

We are now killing time as best we can. We do but 
little more than eat, smoke and sleep. Our amusement after 
sundown is to look at and study the beautiful heavens, especi- 
ally those bright stars which are never seen in the latitude of 
Philadelphia. When we get to Jamaica we expect to see the 
Southern Cross and the splendid stars of the first magnitude in 
the Centaur and Ship Argo. We expect to sail on the twelfth 
and to arrive at Jamaica about the seventeenth. Every berth 
is taken. If the ship were as large again she would be full of 
American travelers. 



344 Tampa and Jamaica. 



XL 

From Tampa to Jamaica — A I^eader in the Farmers' 
Alliance— 'S1.1PS op the Tongue^More Delays^At 
Sea in an Old Steamboat— A Seasick Party^Table 
Scene on the Ship — First Sight of the Southern 
Cross-^IvOOking Upward and Downward— The Cap- 
tain's Idea of Distances— Half an Hour too Tate^ 
So Near and Yet so Far. 

Jamaica, February, 1891 . 
Just before leaving Tampa, our hotel was honored by the 
arrival of a distinguished guest. He was anxious that we 
should know him as a big man in the Farmers' Alliance. He 
wore a slouched hat, talked loud, and had a long grizzly beard. 
On entering the dining room he asked the waiter for a seat 
where he could "look over the whole plantation." Without 
waiting to be shown his seat he took a chair at the head of one., 
of the center tables. The waiter told him that seat was en- 
gaged. "Oh," said he, "I am encroaching on some other 
man's reservation, am I ?" When the waiter handed him the 
menu, he read it all over and leaning back in his chair with an 
air of satisfaction, he said, "Well, I rather guess that's pretty 
fair provender." The waiter informed him that it was usual 
to order a few dishes at a time. "Order is the word, is it ? 
Well, bring me a dinner." The waiter retired and brought 
him soup and fried oysters. "What !" said he, "four dollars 
a day for a plate of soup and three little oysters ! I don't be-, 
lieve the crop will pay for the seed." Beginning to realize 
that he was iDeing laughed at, he put his hand to his forehead 
and said in a subdued tone that he believed he was catching 
that darned gripe again. The head waiter, with great dignity ^ 
informed the under waiters that they must not treat the guests 
with invicility. He meant incivility. Of course this was a 
lapsus Ungues, but it provoked a titter over the room. All of 
us are liable to slips of the tongue. A distingnished friend of 
mine of Media, becoming excited over a game of euchre de- 
clared most emphatically that a card played by his adversary 
was rxoX. gelitiniate . Another friend, of Chester, being elated 
over his success in a game of all foiu^s, triumphantly an- 
nounced that he had made "Joe, High, Tack and the Game." 
Travelers often find more amusement in the ludicrous scenes 
of real life than in those seen on the stage. 

Before embarking for Jamaica, and to escape from the 
mosquitoes, we spent two very pleasant nights at Port Tampa, 



Off for Jamaica, 345 

about nine nariles from Tampa. The hotel and other buildings 
are located about a mile out in the bay and rest on piles a la 
Venice, It is a delightfully cool place and the "Inn" is well 
kept and comfortable. The prices are from four to five dollars 
per day. In the hall of the Inn thej' exhibit an enormous fish, 
hooked by Mrs. Plant, but boated by ex- President Cleveland, 
about two 5^ears ago. It illustrates his usual good luck. It 
may be doubtful, from present appearances if he will again 
land the Presidential Fish, hooked by Mrs, Cleveland. 

I am inclined to think that we must have seen the new 
moon over the wrong shoulder before leaving home, for we 
have suffered more from delays than ever before in our varied 
travels throughout the world. The ship was advertised to sail 
at eight P. M. It was midnight before she drew in the plank. 
She had to wait for the mail train which was three hours late. 
The vessel in which we expected to sail was a nearly new 
screw propeller and a very good ship SDmsthing was wrong 
about her machinery and a miserable old side-wheeled steam- 
boat named the "Hewes," from New Orleans, was substituted 
in her place. She was fully thirty years old, dirty, slow and 
uncomfortable. Her berths were small, her beds musty and 
the pillows offensive from the spew of previous seasick passen- 
gers. The table was coarse, the drinking water resembled 
"mud soup," and the steward charged twent5^^five cents a glass 
for rot-gut whisky. I began to realize our helpless condition 
when I discovered we were being towed by th? ship "Olivette," 
which started at the same time for Havana. We had crossed 
last year to Havana in the " Olivette," and knew her to be a 
fine ship. As her bright electric search-light played over the 
waters of the bay we could distinctly see every buoy and pilot 
mark a half mile away. After we got out of the bay the 
Olivette cast off the hawser, leaving us to take care of ourselves 
and was soon out of sight. We got along very well, making 
about eight miles an hour till we passed the Isle of Cuba, but 
as soon as we entered the Caribbean Sea the scene suddenly 
changed. The winds were directly adverse to the Gulf Stream 
and very strong, causing waves from twenty to thirty feet high. 
The course of the ship was diagonal over the waves which 
caused her to roll most disagreeably. At times one wheel 
would be out of water while the other would be entirely sub- 
merged. The waves repeatedly swept the decks. One inci- 
dent will suffice to give a fair idea of the whole voyage from 
Cuba to Jamaica. The captain remained night and day on 
deck. His place at the head of the table was filled by the 
purser, a very polite little gentleman, but like most little men 
he made up in dignity what he lacked in size. The roll of the 
ship made it very difficult to keep our seats at the table and 



346 The Southern Cross. 

to keep the dishes and provisions from sliding into our laps or 
on the floor. The purser tried by his example to show the 
passengers how gracefully he could keep his seat and eat his 
S3up without spilling it. The ship gave a sudden lurch to the 
left, causing several chairs, with their occupiers, to tumble 
over and some of the dishes to slide into the laps of the gen- 
tlemen, for there were but few ladies at the table. The purser 
smiled and remarked that the passengers would have to learn 
how to accommodate their motions to those of the ship. He 
had scarcely uttered the words when a tremendous wave struck 
the side of the ship with almost force enough to lift her out of 
the water. The ship was on her beam ends, all the dishes 
and provisions, bottles, glassware and table furniture were 
swept from the board, covering the passengers with beans, wine, 
meats and coffee and causing them, in grand confusion, to roll 
about the slippery and greasy deck. The chair of the purser, 
with him in it, described a somersault towards the other side 
of the ship. He was dashed headlong into one of the state- 
rooms and came verv hear breaking his head as well as his ribs. 
The purser got decidedly the worst of it. He smelt of benzine 
which he had used in cleaning his clothes, for two or three 
days. 1 have looked upon many ludicrous scenes at the thea- 
tre and circus, but I never saw a more laughable one than this 
table scene on the ship "Hewes." 

All we have read of the sickening effect of a two hours' 
passage across the British Channel read like pleasure trips, 
when compared with our four daj'-s' passage from Cuba to 
Kingston. The scheduled time from Tampa to Kingston is 
three days ; we spent six nights upon the ship. We had, how- 
ever, some compensation for our misery. After we crossed 
the Tropic of Cancer the Southern Cross could be seen a little 
after midnight. As we had never seen it, we had a strong de- 
sire to enjoy that treat. This beautiful cluster of stars is never 
seen in the latitude of Philadelphia. It comes to the horizon, 
almost due South, about one A. M., and is visible for about 
two hours. My wife is very fond of astronomy and, sick as 
she was, she crawled out of her berth at two A. M. and stood 
with me upon the rolling deck for a full half hour gazing in 
rapture upon the most beautiful of all the Southern constella- 
tions. When due south it was at its brightest, and was about 
eighteen degrees above the horizon. Below the Cross, we saw 
Alpha Centaur and another bright star of the first magnitude, 
serving as pointers to the Cross. Sirius was just going down 
as Alpha Centaur came up. The latter, of all the fixed stars, 
is said to be the nearest to the earth. It is however so far 
away that light, which flies at the rate of ninety millions of miles 
in eight minutes, would require over seventeen years to reach 



Arrival at Kingston. 347 



the earth. What a tremendous thought and how hard to com- 
prehend ! The infinity of space and the eternity of matter. I 
have often thought that man occupies a place in God's creation 
midway between nothing and his Maker. By the microscope 
we look downward and the extent of our vision is only limited 
by the power of the instrument. By the telescope we look up 
toward God, and our view is onl}' limited by its power. 

To descend from the sublime to the ridiculous, I must 
here relate a conversation between the captain and myself 
while standing on the deck looking at the Southern Cross. 
About ten P. M. he had pointed out to some ladies the diamond 
formed by four third-magnitude stars in Argo Navis as the 
Southern Cross. I knew, from its right ascension, he was 
mistaken, but I said nothing. When the true Cross appeared in 
all its splendor and beauty, I called his attention to it and told 
him he had made a mistake. I pointed out the difference in 
the magnitude of the stars, these being of the first, while those 
he had pointed out were of the third magnitude. "Oh," said 
he, "you must remember we are four hours 7ie are r the stars 
now than we were when I showed them to the ladies, and that 
makes them look so much larger and brighter." Poor fool, 
thought I, we will not argue the question, but at the rate of 
speed we were then advancing southward it would take thous- 
ands upon thousands of millions of years to make the slightest 
increase in either the size or brilliancy of the stars we were 
looking at. 

At times it was hard to tell whether we were advancing 
or going backward. Some days we only aveiaged four and a 
half miles an hour. At last we came in sight of the island, 
and we supposed our troubles would soon end. We were sorely 
disappointed. Jt took us a whole day from the time we sighted 
the coast before we arrived opposite Kingston. Tu add to our 
disappointment, we arrived just thirty minutes after sundown, 
and by the regulations of the authorities, no ship can enter 
the port between sunset and sunrise. This was the captain's 
first trip to the Kingston side of the island. He had always 
before landed his passengers on the north side, from whence 
the}^ crossed twenty-one miles by land to Kingston. Not being 
acquainted with the harbor he would not venture to enter, br.t 
he assured us he had sent a telegram from Tampa for a pilot, 
and that he had no doubt upon the signal being given, one 
would come out and take us into the harbor where our ship 
could anchor and the passengers have a pleasant night's rest 
free from further disagreeable motion by the winds and waves. 
We sent up signal after signal but no pilot came to our relief. 
The whole night was passed in running up and down between 
the two lighthouses, blowing the steam whistle and vainly 



348'' In THE Tropics.. 

looking^ at the lights of the city, about two miles off. By good 
luck, about daylight, a ship from New York came up and,, 
without difficulty, entered the harbor. By following close in 
her wake we got inside and found our first smooth sea since 
leaving Tampa, It was like leaving hell for Paradise. The 
rough sea had broken the cable and our telegram had not been 
received. The inhospitable citizens of Kingston would have 
let us perish in. the sea rather than come to our relief contrary 
to the laws of Jamaica. I wonder if the gates of Paradise will 
be shut forever on the poor wandering soul that, by stress of 
misfortunes and adversities on life's stormy sea arrives half am 
hour after the time far shutting them. 



XIL 



In the Tropics — Kingston — Buzzards as Scavengers — 
Old Slave Days in Jamaica — Earthquakes — The Story 
OF Tewis Galby^Scraps of History — Three Classes, 
White, Colored and Black— The World's Fair at 
Kingston — Canada vs. The United States. 

Jamaica, February, 1891. 
All our troubles are now over and we are comfortably 
quartered at the "Myrtle Bank Hotel," We have a fine large 
airy room, good soft beds, downy pillows, good fare and ex- 
cellent service for five dollars per day. Good hotel boarding 
is higher here than in the States (that is what they call our 
country here). Everything is strange and tropical in com- 
parison with life at home. From our dining room we can look 
out through the cocoanut and palm trees to the water, only 
about two hundred yards off. Great iron clad men-of-war are 
lying at anchor in full view. Every day they fire a salute 
which is answered from the forts. The weather is delightfull}' 
pleasant. The trade winds blow constantly, fresh from the 
sea, and overcome the heat of the sun. By comparison, I 
would say the weather here is about as we have it at Cape 
Mav in the month of July, with a strong sea breeze prevailing 
all the time. 

The city is hard to describe. It is situated upon low, flat 
ground, formed by the wash from the mountains behind it. 
The blue mountains form a kind of amphitheatre, the city 
being seated in the parquette. There are mountains just out- 
side the city limits, over seven thousand feet high. We have 
a splendid view of them from our chamber windows. The pop- 
ulation of Kingston is about 40,000, from which one would 



Kingston. 



349 



suppose the city a very large place, yet it is not half as large 
as Chester and, aside from the Myrtle Bank Hotel, it has very 
few dwellings or stores worth over one or two thousand dollars 
to build. Most of the houses are but one and two stories high. 
The streets have but few sidewalks. All the mechanics and 
working people, shop keepers and merchants, with a few excep- 
tions, are black or colored. I saw a one-story dwelling house 
in which, I was informed, forty persons slept. This accounts 
for the large population in so small a city. 

Buzzards fly about the streets and walk around the back 
yards as tame as chickens. They are the scavengers of the city 
and, like the dogs of Constantinople, they are protected by 
law. It is impossible to describe the city by comparison with 
any I have yet seen. From engravings I have seen I would 
say it resembled modern Bagdad or Damascus more than any 
European or American town. The houses are mostly enclosed 
by walls which come out to the street. The walls are irregu- 
lar and ugly, but after we enter by the street gate, we are 
surprised to find some palatial residences surrounded by 
oriental gardens and adorned with fountains and statuary. 
This, however, is the exception, not the rule. The business 
part of the town has a very old and dilapidated appearance. 
Its situation, however, is very charming. Covered in the rear 
by mountains and constantly fanned by the refreshing breezes 
from the sea, its climate is the best and most salubrious on the 
earth. It is shaded by thousands of tropical trees and per- 
fumed by perpetual flowers. We have a large and beautiful 
bouquet on our private table that could not be bought, at this 
season, in Philadelphia for less than five dollars. Here it cost 
a few cents. 

The construction of the street walls in front of the houses- 
and gardens gives the city a suspicious appearance, suggestive 
of danger either to the traveler on the highway or the citizen 
in his castle. I have no doubt but this mode of building was 
adopted for the purpose of seclusion as well as defense in the 
old daj^s of slavery. I remember very well when the English 
home government took a firm hold of that troublesome question, 
human slavery, and freed the slaves of Jamaica. The Crown 
had repeatedly ordered the Governor and Assembly to amelior- 
ate the condition of the slaves. The colonial government 
looked upon the question as one of local interest only, and at 
last ordered the certified resolution of the British Government 
to be burned bj^ the common hangman in the public square. 
In 1834 the British Government took the question into its own 
hands, abolished the institution and voted the slave owners 
$100,000,000 compensation. In 1 831 there was a terrible rising 
of the slaves and many lives were lost. The fire-eaters of 



-350 Lewis Galby. 

Jamaica threatened to transfer their allegiance to the United 
States if the British Government should insist in its determina- 
tion to abolish slavery. England had the' moral courage to 
free her slaves and she has kept and will continue to keep 
Jamaica. 

The chief reason for building the houses only one and two 
stories high is the repeated earthquakes with which the city 
has been visited. The island is never entirely free from them. 
We had a slight shock three days ago. The inside of the 
houses are not plastered as they are at home. The partitions, 
ceilings and cornices are all of wood so nicely fitted and paint- 
ed that, if I had not been told, I would have thought them 
plastered, stuccoed and corniced with cement. This is to 
keep the repeated shocks from cracking the plastered ceilings 
and causing them to fall off. The people tell, with reverence, 
the story of one Lewis Galby, who, in 1690, was swallowed in a 
great crevice in the earth caused by the memorable earthquake 
of that year. He disappeared entirely into the bowels of the 
earth ; after a short tim.e there was another shock- — the earth 
opened again and vomited him out into the sea still alive. He 
lived many years after and was always looked upon as niirac- 
ulously saved. 

The population of the island is claimed to be nearly 800,- 
000. Its area is 4193 square miles. It was discovered by 
Columbus on his second voyage, May 3d, 1497. It is one 
hundred and fourteen miles long by from twenty-one to forty- 
nine miles wide. It is very mountainous, craggy and rocky, lull 
of little fertile valleys with many grottoes, hot and cold mineral 
springs and beautiful scenery. It has but few carriage roads, 
fewer railroads, and no rivers of any importance for navigation 
and trade. Nevertheless the island is well watered, but the 
greater part of it is entirel}^ unfit for cultivation. The popula- 
tion is divided into three classes, white, colored and black. 
Most of the people are colored and a few black men here 
are very rich, but the great majority of the blacks are poor. 
A colored man considers himself degraded if he marries a black 
woman and vice versa. 

There are a great many Canadians and quite a number of 
Englishmen here to see and help along the great Industrial 
Exposition. We visited it yesterday for the first time ; we 
will give it several visits before we leave. It is quite credit- 
able, indeed a very pretty little display. The main building 
is constructed very much on the model of the one at Philadel- 
phia in 1876, but, of course, not near so large. 

1 was surprised to learn from nearly every Canadian to 
whom I spoke upon the subject, that a settled belief exists in 
the minds of the people of Canada that it is not only the desire. 



Jamaica. 351 



but the unwritten policy of the United States to absorb their 
countr}^ 

In my next letter I will be able to say more of the manners 
and customs of the people and the general character of the 
Island. 



XIII. 

Jamaica, as Near the Equator as the North Cape is to 
THE Pole — Mountainous and Fertile, but Neglected 
— Women as Laborers — Wages — One White Person to 
Fifty Colored^Adverse to Work Because Unneces- 
sary— IvOngitude OF Philadelphia— Market Day — A 
New York Colored Man's Opinion of a Jamaica Nig- 
ger — English as They Speak it — The Harbor— Fate 
OF Deserters from a Russian Iron-clad — United 
States Money Worth More than Sterling — No Irish- 
men IN Jamaica. 

Jamaica, February, 1891. 
We have been here ten days. We have seen all that the 
railwa}'- can shovv and have also had two or three days' coach 
riding among the mountains. It is too warm to take much 
exercise between nine A. M. and four P. M. As we have had 
a constant sea breeze, we have been very comfortable at our 
hotel. The nights are sufficiently cool to afford lefreshing 
sleep, even in Kingston. We found it uncomfortably cold at 
night on the mountains at an elevation of two thousand feet. 

It will give a better idea of this latitude to extend the 
line eastward through well-known Southern countries. We 
are several degrees further south than the most southern part 
of Europe. The eighteenth degree of south latitude passes 
through Timbuctoo and Khartoom, extending south of Arabia 
and through Abyssinia. We are now just about as near the 
equator as we were to the pole in our visit to the North Cape 
in 1888. 

The island is very mountainous, but even the mountain 
tops are fertile. It produces, without cultivation, very fine 
pasturage the year round. The valleys and low lands on the 
coast are exceedingly rich, but poorly cultivated. I have not 
seen a scythe, plow, mower, reaper or thresher in Jamaica. 
The principal agricultural tools are knives to cut the rank 
guinea-grass and bananas, and shovels, mattocks and hoes. 
The women do the hardest work. They break stone for the 
roads, which are kept very good, and have been constructed 



,352 Labor and Wages. 

at great expense. These poor women carry on their heads 
nearly a wheelbarrow load of stone and earth. The railroad 
now belongs to a company of Americans. The chief engineer 
told me that all the grading and tunneling was done by spades 
and picks. The earth and broken limestone is removed and 
carried to the dump in baskets carried on the heads of women 
who are paid thirty-seven cents a day. He said that this is 
considered very high wages, as the blacks are adverse to work 
■unless stim,ulated by what they call good pay. When we look 
-at the deep cuts and high embankments through the moun- 
vtains, and realize that all this mass of earth and stones has been 
removed in this way, it strikes our mind with incredulous 
surprise. Most of the merchants, mechanics, railroad clerks 
and conductors are black and colored msn. Of the 800,000 
people said to live upon the island not over fifteen thousand are 
pure white. Many of the officials, and most of the Town Coun- 
-cil and Assemblymen are black. All the clerks and carriers in 
the postoffice and Her Majesty's constabulary are black men. 
The aristocratic class call themselves colored people and hold 
themselves a degree higher in the scale of respectability than 
the blacks. The Governor and the Judges of the courts are 
white men and are paid very good salaries. The Chief Justice 
receives ten thousand dollars and the Puisne Judges seven 
thousand dollars a year, which is better pay than the great 
State of Pennsylvania gives to her Judges. While the wages 
paid to mechanics and laborers seem very low, when we 
measure them by the amount of work each person does, the}'- are, 
perhaps, nearly as high as with us. The rapidity with which 
work is done here depends more upon the number employed 
than the amount of work done by each. They move very slowly, 
go to work very late and stop early. Indeed, the people of 
Jamaica seem very adverse to, what we would call, hard work. 
And why should they work ? They need but little clothing ; 
broad-leaved tropical trees give them sufficient shelter ; yams, 
bananas, mangoes and the other almost innumerable fruits and 
vegetables of spontaneous growth furnish more food than they 
can eat ; if they want milk they have but to tap a cocoanut ; 
and if they are thirsty they need only suck an orange. Ne- 
-cessity is the mother of labor. A desire for luxury alone 
-Stimulates the lower classes here to work. 

When it is noon at home it is noon here, the longitude of 
Jamaica and Washington being the same. The island gets its 
name from a corruption of the Spanish word Xaymaca, which 
means a land of wood and water. It has belonged to the Eng- 
lish since Admiral Penn captured it in the days of Cromwell. 
While it has about seventy streams, running every way from 
the mountains to the sea, it has no rivers worth naming. The 



Parks and Markets. 353 



Black River only navigable for very small craft. The cul- 
tivation of the island has very much declined since the old 
slavery days when the laborers were compelled to work. We 
can see evidences of waste and neglect all around. What were 
once rich tobacco, coffee and sugar plantations, are now over- 
grown with logwood and scrub timber, and, where irrigation 
has been neglected, the land has dried up. There is but very 
little barren ground, however, in Jamaica. If the Dutch 
farmers of Pennsylvania had possession of the island for ten 
years, they would convert it into a little paradise. As it is, 
there is no doubt but that the people are beginning to improve. 
They seem to be awaking from a long dreamy sleep. Railroads 
are being projected, good hotels are being built and American 
and English enterprise are taking a firm foothold. 

If the municipality of New York could only transfer, in a 
• body, the little park in the center of Kingston, to that great 
city, they would pay millions for it, but without the perpetual 
summer that nourishes it here it would onl}^ delight their eyes 
for a single season. One winter would kill all the tropical 
trees, shrubs and flowers it contains. I have no doubt but 
that the people of Jamaica would find as much pleasure in 
one of our grand old primeval forests as we enjoy among their 
cocoas, bananas, baj^ cotton wood, lignumvitses and log- 
wood trees. The eternal fitness of things has properly distrib- 
uted nature's works. We have in miniature here all the 
tropics can produce. 

Market day is a great event in Kingston. The country 
people come on foot for thirty miles around the city bringing 
with them, on their heads and on mules and donkeys, a few 
shillings' worth of marketing — -bouquets of wild roses, yams, 
vegetables, melons and everything that grows on the island, 
for which they can get a few cents. Many of the girls and boys 
have never seen Kingston before, and after the market is over 
they have a high old time seeing the town and visiting their 
city cousins and friends. The market houses are very good 
substantial iron buildings of recent construction, and much 
superior to anything Chester has of that kind. The sea breeze 
passes freely through them and keeps them cool and carries 
off all offensive smell, of which Kingston is full. 

The government of the island seems satisfactory to the 
people. Crime is punished with as much certainty as in 
other parts of the world. The people are about as honest as 
other civilized nations but not as industrious because, as before 
stated, of the absence of necessity for labor. With all its 
tropical abundance, its luxurious fruits and flowers, its delight- 
ful climate its soft, enchanting scenery, its balmy breezes and 
its perpetual summer sun, I would not be compelled to spend 



354 Jamaica's Colored • People. 

my life here if my compensation were to be the King of the 
Isle. 

The colored people look like their brethren of America^ 
bit they are a different race. Here they are a mixture ot 
black, Spanish, English and Creoles. They are very polite 
bat never witty. While getting my money changed from our 
own currency to pounds, shillings and pence, to keep from 
mixing the silver pieces, I said, "I will put Jamaica in one 
pocket and America in the other." A colored man stepped 
u.p and with a twinkle in his eye, he said, "You may put 
Jamaica in one pocket, but you'll have a big job to put the 
United States in the other." I said, " What do you know 
about the United States?" Drawing himself up to his full 
standard height, he replied, "I am a citizen of that country, 
sir ; I belong to New York, and am down here to teach these 
niggers how to wait on people at a hotel." 

The population are supposed to speak English, but the 
lower classes do not speak the language as it is spoken in 
England or the United States. They have a patois of their 
own, made up of Spanish, English and some of the old slave 
jargon. I heard two women quarreling in the street and stop- 
ped to ascertain, if I could, with the greatest attention, what 
they were quarreling about. I conld not understand a single 
word. The speech of the bell boy is very hard to understand' 
at times when he forgets himself and speaks his common 
patois. One day I forgot to give him his accustomed penny 
for answering the bell. I took the ice water from him and 
shut the door. He knocked gently, and said, "No membra 
not de savant, sah." After some questioning I translated the 
sentence, "You have forgotten the servant, sir." 

The only articles of general use that may be said to be 
cheap are segars. I like them better than Havanas and they do 
not cost half as much. A very fine and honestly-made segar 
can be bought here for thirty dollars a thousand. They retail 
a very fair segar at five for a shilling. They are about equal 
t3 an ordinary ten cent segar. 

We have paid three regular visits to the Exposition, have 
driven several times over the town ; been in the markets and 
through the business, as well as the fashionable and poor por- 
tions of the city, and are prepared to form a correct judgment 
of the olace. It is a city of huts and shanties, with here and 
there a few^ good houses. It is, however, green with trees and 
tropical plants. Eand can be bought in the fashionable part 
of the town for five hundred dollars a lot, one hundred feet 
square ; in the business part of the city it is higher. 

The front of the city, on the harbor, is the most valuable 
part. The harbor is really one of the finest in the world. 



Russian Justice. 355 



is never free from foreign ships. Since we have been here we 
have seen from our dining room and parlor windows, ten or 
fifteen large ocean ships lying at anchor, among them the United 
States iron-clad, the Petrel, the Kearsarge, the English ships 
Ruby, Volage, Calypso and Active. Yesterda}^ the United 
States ship Enterprise entered the harbor and remained long 
enough to take on board a quantity of coal, when she iminedi- 
ately departed. 

The great Russian iron-clad, Minnie, has been lying at 
anchor within five hundred j^ards of the lawn of the hotel 
which runs down to the water's edge. This ship has created 
quite an excitement in the city. A few days ago her captain 
hauled up the English flag and greeted it with a salute of two 
broadsides. He then came ashore in his launch and in a formal 
manner asked leave to hang from the yard-arm of his ship 
three seamen that had attempted to desert, but had been cap- 
tured. The authorities, of course, peremptorily declined to 
accede to his request. He then weighed anchor and steamed 
out of the harbor over three miles from shore. What took 
place out there no one here knows. After about twelve 
hours he returned to his old anchorage. It is the general 
belief that he hung the three deserters and buried them in the 
sea. In the eyes of international law his ship is a part of the 
legitimate territory of the Czar, and no one has the power to 
inquire the fate of the deserters or relieve them from any 
punishment the laws of Russia may have imposed upon their 
crime. 

The Exposition is fairly good for Jamaica. There are 
many strangers here from England and Canada, and a fair re- 
presentation from the United States. All the shop keepers 
and tradesmen know the value of American mone3^ They 
will give sixpence more for a five dollar gold piece here than 
it is worth in England. Currency five dollar bank notes are 
exchangeable for British pounds. 

My attention was called by a gentleman from Toronto to 
the absence of Irishmen. He offered to wager a five-pound 
note that there was not an Irishman on the island. I don't 
know why, but I have been unable to find an^- ; perhaps it ma}^ 
be accounted for from their well-known antipathy to the col- 
ored race. 



356 Mountain Scenery. 



XIV. 

Mountain Scenery in Jamaica— Ticks and Lice — No 
Game and Few Snakes — Enormous Cisterns — Oi.d 
Sugar Plantations — No Farms or Farmers — Spanish 
Town — Bog Walk — Grottoes — Constant Spring — One 
Visit Enough. 

Jamaica, 1891. 
Before leaving Jamaica, we made several quite extended 
excursions over the island. We went west as far as the rail- 
road would take us, to a town in the lower mountain district 
called Porus ; then we took a two-horse carriage and driver 
and went ten miles up to the summit of the mountain, two 
thousand feet above the sea level. It took us three and a half 
hours to make the ascent and one hour and a half to comeback 
the next day. The town on the mountain is called Mande- 
ville. It is not much of a place, with a poor country hotel, 
hard beds and very poor fare. We met several very refined 
and companionable people at this mountain town, among them 
a gentleman from New York, interested in the construction of • 
• the railroad. Several of the gentlemen stopping at the hotel 
are from Canada and are sojourning there for a few days to 
enjoy the mountain air and look upon the superb scenery. 
The drive from Porus to MandeviUe reminds me, so far as the 
topography of the country aad general contour of the moun- 
tains is concerned, of the mountain district of Pennsylvania, 
from the Horse Shoe on the Pennsylvania Railroad to Cresson. 
The elevation is about the same. Here, of course, the com- 
parison ends. The mountains of Jamaica are capable of high 
cultivation to their very summits. The roads abound with 
bananas, oranges, cocoanuts, logwood and lignumvitae trees ; 
great cotton wood trees and luxuriant grass grow up to the 
mountain top. Coffee trees can also be seen growing in a wild 
state along the road. 

After we had lunched, like a gallant man, I invited my 
wife to take a walk with me and enjoy some of the fine views 
from elevated points hard by. We enjoyed our stroll very 
much, as the air was light and bracing and the temperature 
was not above fifty-five degrees. When we got home we found 
ourselves covered with what they call, grass lice and ticks. 
My wife spent three hours in cleaning herself from the annoy- 
ing little pests. They burrow into the flesh and, if not re- 
moved, are not only troublesome but dangerous. They kill 
the horses and cattle if not taken off. The herdsmen make it a 



Cisterns and Aqueducts. 357 

rule to "tick" their cattle at least twice a week. The engineer 
of the extension of the railroad told me that he had been laid 
up for three weeks from sores and inflammation caused by the 
ticks. He said they had so burrowed into his flesh that iron 
nippers had to be used to pull them out. The mosquitoes are 
very bad in parts of the island, but there are very few snakes. 
The island is comparatively destitute of game. The largest 
bird, except the wild water fowl and buzzard, is the crow 
blackbird. He seems to live and flourish all over the world. 
Although the island around the coast seems to be pretty well 
watered, yet water is very scarce in autumn in the mountain 
districts. Most 01 the drinking water is secured in cisterns from 
rains. S3me of these cisterns are rather curious. A large 
hill-top will be plastered over with cement ; the base of the 
hill will be raised by a rim of masonry and cement ; all the 
water that falls on the smooth surface will immediately run 
into an enormous uudergrouad cistern from which it can be 
pumped by hand as from a great well, for domestic use. 

Many oi the fences in the mountain district are made of 
bamboo rails, tied together with creepers from the neighboring 
trees called nimble jacks. We saw bamboo trees fully fifty feet 
high and not over three inches in diameter. 

On our way from Spanish Town to Porus we passed through 
a fine old sugar plantation. The water by which it is irrigated 
is still conveyed by an old Spanish aqueduct built of brick 
like the aqueducts of Rome, and extending for a long distance 
to some mountain stream. If it were not for the natural basins 
up in the mountains which confine the rain water in the spring- 
time and gradually dispense it by slow percolation to the 
mountain streams, Jamaica would be dried up. 

I do not think the island contains a single farmer, as we 
Northern people understand the word. They pay no attention 
to a succession of crops, never plow or replant the fields as 
before stated. Their only agricultural tools are hoes, mattocks 
and big knives that look like corn cutters, principally used to 
cut off bananas and cocoa nuts. 

Our second excursion was by rail via Spanish Town to 
Bog Walk. Spanish Town was the former capital of Jamaica. 
At present it looks more like an abandoned camp meeting 
ground covered with miserable dog kennels and tumble-down 
huts, than a city of eight thousand inhabitants. The scenery, 
however, from Spanish Town to Bog Walk, is very fine both 
by rail and coach. There are several tunnels on the road 
which give beautiful vistas as we enter and emerge from their 
mouths. We went to Bog Walk by rail and came back by 
coach over the mountain road. The town of Bog Walk is 
prettily situated in an amphitheatre formed by the surrounding 



358 Impressions of Jamaica. 

mountains. On the highest parts of the hills may be seen tall 
cocoanut trees that look in the early dawn like windmills. 
The valley is very rich and is watered by the Rio Cobre, a 
small mountain stream not navigable, but very useful for irri- 
gation. The Bog Walk road follows the stream and in some 
places presents scenery equal to celebrated Swiss views. At 
one place the trees up the mountain side were covered from the 
water's edge to the mountain's top with a luxuriant growth of 
green vines and creepers so thick as to be impenetrable to the 
naked eye. 

The water from the Rio Cobre in times of floods and 
freshets has washed caverns and small grottoes in the soft 
limestone mountain sides. Some of these grottoes are very 
beautiful with stalactites and stalagmites. In the Blue Moun- 
tains, about forty miles from Kingston, hot and cold springs' 
are found in close proximity. Some of the scenery of Jamaica 
presents to the eye, in miniature, truly beautiful landscapes. 

Constant Spring, about six miles north of Kingston, has 
been highly spoken of, but to me it presented a rather tame 
appearance. It has the best built hotel in Jamaica. To my 
mind, Kingston is a much more pleasant place to live. It is 
called Constant Spring because of its sheltered situation. I 
at first supposed that there was a spring of constantly flowing" 
water there. In this I was sadly disappointed ; it is a very 
dry place. Constant Summer would be a more appropriate 
name. 

The coach route from Annotta Bay to Kingston is very 
much admired. The ships from Tampa have always landed 
their passengers there until the last voyage of the "Hewes." 
It is about thirty miles by road from Annotta to Kingston, 
most of which is through and over the mountains. It takes a 
full day to make a single trip. The fare to the coachman is 
one pound ($5). 

We have now seen enough of Jamaica to enable us to 
form a fair idea of its topography and the manners and customs 
of its people. It is a tropical world in miniature. Its lands 
are rich and fertile but its people are thriftless, indolent, hand- 
to-mouth and easy-going. I cannot say the}^ are lazy, but 
they lack energy and enterprise. Without a copious infusion 
of energetic Anglo-Saxon blood the island will never amount 
to much. If it had better communication with the United 
States it would be a most delightful winter resort for our over 
worked Northern people. As it is, the time lost and annoy- 
ance suffered in getting here and the uncertainty in getting 
away, overbalance the advantages and compel us to sa^^ that 
one visit to Jamaica is quite enough. 



Final Impressions of Jamaica. 359 

We will sail for Bermuda to-morrow and must spend five 
days on the sea before reaching that much celebrated winter 
resort. 



XV 



Jamaica to Bermuda— Morp: About Jamaica — The Rat 

AND THE MANGOOSE — OlD PoRT RoYAE, THE GOMORRAH 

OF Jamaica — Turk's Island — Miscegenation — Hayti's 
Opinion of White People — Ship lyiFE, the Same Old 
Story— May and November — A lyOVE Scene — L/Ooking 
AT THE Stars — A Game of Euchre — Canada vs. The 
United States. 

Bermuda, March, 1891. 
Farewell to Jamaica ! She is black but comely. Travel- 
ers hove the reprehensible habit of overpainting their pict- 
Lires. I have endeavored to say nothing of Jamaica that is 
not true as she presented herself to me. There is something 
about the place that strikes one who has never visited the 
Torrid Zone with pleasure and surprise. When we look 
upon something entirely different from what we have been ac- 
customed to see, it is the contrast and not the new object that 
startles and at the same time gives us pleasure. The denizens 
ot the desert delight in flowing rivers and rippling streams . 
The dwellers upon mountains love the rich lowlands and un- 
dulating plains. The inhabitants of cities rejoice in the quiet 
of country life. The boy who for the first time visits the city 
looks upon it as the centre of all pleasure. So the inhabitants 
of the Tropics would look with amazement upon a glacier. 
At first, I took great delight in gazing upon the tall and grace- 
ful palmetto, cocoanut, cotton wood, logwood, lignumvitse and 
other strange trees, and the countless varieties of fruits, veo-e- 
tables, sugar plantations, wild groves of oranges and bananas 
sapodillas. Mangoes, plantains, yams, grape fruit and pine 
apples ; but I soon grew weary of the productions of eternal 
sunshine with their accompanying dust, ticks, lice and pestifer- 
ous insects. I soon began to long for the sight of a grand 
old oak, a tall and graceful pine or even a poplar tree. 

A good old-fashioned sleigh ride or even a blizzard would 
be preferable to the sweltering heat caused by the slightest 
exercise in the sunshine of Jamaica. A field of corn or wheat 
would be more beautiful to me than a sugar plantation, an old 
fashioned apple orchard more attractive than an orange grove. 
To sum up, I would advise every person who can conveniently 



360 The Equilibrium of Nature. 

do so, to visit the Tropics once and experience the pleasure of 
the contrast with his own country ; but, if he expects to find 
anything superior to what he has at home, taken as a whole, 
he will be disappointed. 

The history of Jamaica demonstrates the danger of human 
interference with the harmony of Nature. The early settlers, 
that they might enjoy the fruits of the soil without working 
themselves, imported great numbers of African slaves. From 
natural fecundity the slaves increased so fast that they soon 
numbered over fifty blacks to one white man. Insubordination 
and insurrections followed until at last the island was surren- 
dered to the former slaves. Plantations were abandoned, fields 
uncultivated ; indolence, ignorance and idleness followed and 
from a fertile garden, Jamaica declined to little better than an 
abandoned and overgrown waste. The ships that came for 
produce brought rats ; they, like the slaves, increased so fast 
that the land was literally filled with them. As their number 
increased their natural food diminished until, from necessity, 
they began to devour the young sugar cane, bananas, pine 
apples and cocoanuts. The government imported from India 
a small carnivorous animal something like a weasel, called the 
Mangoose, said to be a deadly enemy of the rat. For a short 
time he played sad havoc with the poor rats, just as the Eng- 
lish sparrow killed off our caterpillars until he learned to eat " 
grain. The cunning rat soon learned that the Mangoose only 
hunted by day and slept at night, so Mr. Rat kept in his hole 
all day and when his enemy slept he sallied forth and commit- 
ted his usual depredations. The Mangoose and rat soon 
became friends and instead of eating each other, they agreed 
to live upon the same kind of food, so now they both eat sugar 
cane, bananas, cocoanuts, etc. To give some variety to their 
bill of fare they climb the tallest trees and crawl into the 
smallest holes in search of eggs, and little birds and chicks. 
It is next to impossible to raise chickens and even the buzzards 
are becoming scarce. As a natural result, nearly all the in- 
sectivorous birds have disappeared and pestiferous insects have 
increased to such an extent as to threaten the extermination 
of all domestic animals. Ticks, grass-lice and fleas have 
already shut up all the beautiful promenades and have ren- 
dered the pasturing of cattle almost impossible . They will soon 
make a complete conquest of the island if something heroic is 
not done for their extermination. The lyCgislature has at last 
taken hold of the trouble and has appointed a committee to 
examine and report upon the case. They look upon the Man- 
goose as the disturbing cause in the equilibrium of nature. All 
this trouble has come upon Jamaica because the slaves and 
the dogs killed ofi" the cats. We will now leave Jamaica to 



Turk's Island to Bekmupa. %6i 



Wfestle with her fats, mangoose and ticks while we seek health 
and recreation in other places. 

On the twenty-eighth of February, on a very hot afternoon, 
we embarked for Bermuda. Our ship passed over the former 
site of Port Royal which,, like ancient Gomorrah, was swallow- 
ed by an earthquake. Not a house, and but one of all the 
inhabitants escaped. The monument erected to the only sur-^ 
vivor can be seen from the deck. I have referred to this 
earthquake in a former letter. Our ship stopped for a few hours 
at Turk's Island, about four hundred and twenty-five mile 
eastward from Jamaica, from thence she sailed nearly due 
north, seven hundred and fifty miles to Bermuda. We made 
the voyage in a little less than six days, the sea being rather 
rough and the winds adverse. 

We passed Hayti on the first of March. Our ship ran 
close to its shores. We could see the houses, horses and green 
trees very distinctly. It is quite hilly but has a fertile appear- 
ance firom the ship. While in Jamaica I read an extract from 
a Haytian newspaper upon the egressions of the white race. 
It stated that the race problem had been solved in Hayti ; that 
a white man could only exist there by tolerance ; that he had 
no rights that a colored man was bound to respect, and if he did 
not cease plotting and intriguing in the afi^airs of State he need 
expect nothing less than absolute banishment from the Island. 

We had a very intelligent gentleman on board from Turk's 
Island. He was a pure Saxon with light hair, blue eyes and 
fair skin. I endeavored to learn from him all I could about 
his native island. Among other questions I asked him if the 
white people intermarried there with the colored folks, as in 
Jamaica. I noticed that he did not care to converse much 
on that subject. He simply said that there were some rich 
and influential colored people on the island that were recog- 
nized and received in the best society ; he then turned the 
conversation upon the manufacture of salt, and the beautiful 
shell work of the women. When our ship anchored in the 
harbor, I noticed a be utiful little sailing yacht approaching 
us. When within hailing distance I saw she was manned by 
two colored boys. My Saxon friend waved his handkerchief 
and one of the boys at once cried out : "Hello, Papa, here 
we are coming to take you home." I guessed the rest. 

The Turk's Island group contains nine small island and 
a rock called Toney's rock. The principal business of the 
place is the manufacture of salt from the evaporation of sea 
water. The women and girls make beautiful shell work and 
seemed to reap quite a harvest from sales to passengers. The 
people of the island are mostly colored but the proportion of 
white people is not as small as in Jamaica. 



362 Life on Shipboard, 

lyife on a ship, if well observed, is always very amusing. 
We see, on a well filled ship, every phase of human character 
and can find every crack in the human skull and every crank 
in the human brain. There were two little children on the 
ship — Sadie, the bright blue-eyed four-year-old daughter of 
the captain, and Walter, a very manly eight-year-old son of 
one of the passengers. He evidently felt his importance, as 
he performed acts of gallantry towards his little shipmate. 
Both were free from seasickness and great favorites with the 
passengers as well as crew. Just before reaching Bermuda 
Walter came to where I was standing and in a confidential way 
invited me to walk down into the cabin and take a drink with 
him before we parted, perhaps forever. I accepted his courtesy, 
anxious to see how he would carry out his intention. Upon 
entering the cabin he called the steward and coolly called for 
"one ginger ale and one rum punch." He said I must excuse 
him for taking something soft, as his father had promised him 
one thousand dollars, when he was twenty-one, if he would 
drink no spirits till he arrived at that age, and said he, with a 
significant wink, " It's the one thousand dollars I'm after you 
know. ' ' I thought it was a pretty good beginning for an eight- 
year-old boy. 

The gossip of the ship was a young woman of perhaps 
twenty and an old man of not less than sixty-five years. She was " 
fairly good looking, plump and sprightly. He was big, gross, 
fat and flabby. To use a comparison from nature, she resem- 
bled an over-grown lamb and he looked like an over-fed hog. 
In other words it was December reposing in the lap of May. 
He was, or pretended to be, very seasick during the entire 
voyage, and she did nothing but pet and caress him. She fed 
him with a spoon and then wiped off" his ugl}'^ mouth with a 
kiss, at w^hich he would give a grunt of satisfaction. It was 
their bridal tour, but by close observation one could see behind 
the mask. He is undoubtedly a rich old fool and she hopes 
soon to be a gay and dashing widow. 

About two o'clock one bright night I arose to take a last 
look at the stars fast sinking below the southern horizon. My 
attention was attracted by the rustling of calico and a sudden 
commotion upon one of the deck settees. I had disturbed the 
nest of the pretty stewardess and an English midshipman. 
They were also looking at the stats, waiting for Venus to rise. 

Speaking of the stars calls to my mind a circumstance 
bearing upon the modern theory that seasickness has its seat 
in the brain and not the stomach, as is generall}' supposed. 
One of the lady passengers would become sick whenever the 
ship rolled at night, unless she could see the stars. As soon 
as she saw them she became perfectly well. If the stars 



Canadian Annexation. 363 



should become obscured by clouds, she would at once become 
sick — but as soon as the clouds passed and the stars appeared 
again, she recovered. Here is a fact for the medical profession 
to consider. Her sickness was caused b}' her mind's inability 
to comprehend the motions of the ship without something fixed 
to look upon. I have known seasick passengers to get suddenly 
well at the first sight of land. 

There were several very intelligent Canadian gentlemen 
on board in a state of great excitement about the election on 
what they called the crisis in Canada. They had got the ab- 
surd notion into their heads that the States, as they called our 
country, intended to annex Canada, peaceably if possible but 
b}^ force if necessary. T could, not convince them that there 
was no such thought in the public mind in the United States, 
and that there was no excitement there on the subject. We 
agreed at last to settle the question by a friendly game of 
euchre — two Americans on one side and two Canadians on the 
other. If the Americans should win Canada was to be annexed 
to the United States, if the Canadians should win the United 
States was to be annexed to Canada. It is needless to state 
the result The United States won seven to one. 

When we arrived at Bermuda the first question by our 
Canadian friends was : "How has the election in Canada 
gone?" The answer was: "Sir John and the government 
sustained." "Hip, hip, hurrah ! Three cheers for Sir John 
and Canada !" 

We landed at Bermuda on the morning of March sixth. 
The sun arose in all his splendor ; not a cloud could be seen ; 
the deep indigo blue sea had changed to azure. For a full 
hour we glided among the beautiful little islands, going so 
near as to almost touch some of them. The green hills and 
gray rocks, the white houses and cultivated fields and gardens 
presented a most charming contrast, while the cool bracing 
air admonished us that we were in a latitude nearly one thous- 
and miles north of Jamaica. 

We are pleasantly quartered at the Hamilton House. In 
ni}^ next I will endeavor to give my impression of Bermuda. 



Bermuda, 



XVL 

First Impression^s of Bermuda — Scraps of History — Thh 
Scene of Shakespeare's Tempest — Hog Money— Ber- 
muda's Friendship for Our Revolutionary Patriots 
— A Complete Change of Sentiment- — Her Strong 
Sympathy with the Slave Holder's Rebellion — A 
Nest for Blockade Runners -- Description of Ber- 
muda, Nothing Else to Do— Splendid Roads — No Mud 

AND but IvITTLE DuST*— GoOD ClIMATE BUT NO PlACE FOR 

Invalids — Youth and Death. 

Bermuda, March, 1891. 

"Thirty days iu prison." 

It is somewhat difficult to get into Bermuda, but, at this 
season of the year, it is absolutely impossible to get out in less 
than thirty days. The first impression of the place is so charm- 
ing that we fancy we would like to die here among the green 
hills, cedar groves, coral islands, glorious sunsets, and starry 
nights. After a week we suddenly realize that we have seen 
it all. At first we buy a bouquet every morning ; after a while- 
we notice that all the servant girls wear roses, and even the 
beautiful Baster lilies remind us of the funeral decorations of a 
corpse. 

The insatiable desire of the human heart for new scenery 
and excitement, after we have seen all one place has to show, 
makes us restless and impatient of restraint. So it was with us 
in Bermuda ; but when we began to inquire for a stateroom in 
a ship to take us away, we learned to our great disappointment 
that every berth and even sleeping room on the seats in the 
"Social Hall" had been engaged for three weeks in advance. 
Then we realized for the first time that we were indeed "pris- 
oners for thirty days." Solicitations, prayers, petitions, in- 
terventions of friends and even bribery were of no avail. There 
were already a hundred recorded applications for every berth 
that might be given up before sailing day. So, having nothing 
else to do, we set ourselves to work in a systematic way to 
study the history and topography of the islands. Such is the 
perversity of my nature, that if I knew I could leave these 
islands at will, I would certainly leave them with regret ; but 
as I cannot get away, the feeling of restraint overcomes all the 
charming allurements of the place and I shall leave it with un- 
speakable pleasure. 

The history of the islands is interesting. They take their 
name from their Spanish discoverer, Juan Bermudez, who, 



Bermuda. 365 

while sailing for the West Indies with a cargo of hogs, sighted 
the islands A. D. 15 15. He left a few pigs on the island. 

Its discovery by the English was due to a frightful ship- 
wreck. Shakespeare's play, entitled "The Tempest," is said 
to be founded upon a fearful storm and shipwreck upon the 
coral reefs on the northwest of the islands. The place was 
the terror of sailors for many years. They supposed it to be 
infested with devils, sprites, evil spirits and fairies. 

"Full fathoms five thy lather lies ; 
» If his boDes are coral made ; 
These are pearls that were his eyes." 

They supposed the inhabitants to be half human and half 
fiend, such as Calaban, "a freckled whelp, hag-born, not 
honored with a human shape." It soon became a rendezvous 
for pirates and buccaneers. It was next to impossible for a 
ship to land because of the absence of harbors on the south, 
and the coral reefs, extending for many miles out on the north, 
with but few channels only known to the initiated. When 
the shipwrecked English crew were driven upon the islands 
they found them full of hogs, the natural successors of Juan 
Bermudez's pigs. For many years after the English settled 
the islands the silver and copper money bore the image of a 
hog, and was called "Hog money." I have seen some of it 
in the Museum here. It was adopted to commemorate old 
Captain Bermudez's swine. 

During the American Revolution, the people of Bermuda 
strongly sympathized with our patriot fathers. By collusions 
with emissaries sent by General Washington, the magazines 
on the islands were robbed of an immense quantity of gun- 
powder which was shipped to Charleston and safely delivered - 
to the Revolutionary authorities, and was the indirect cause 
of one of our most decisive victories. The English govern- 
ment never succeeded in discovering the persons who aided us 
in stealing the powder. The people are now intensely loyal 
to England and rather unfriendly to us. Nevertheless all its 
prosperit}^ is due to our market for its onions and potatoes and 
the hundreds of thousands of dollars we annually pour into its ■ 
lap for two months' enjoyment of its sunshine. Old ^sop 
was mistaken when he supposed God's sunshine belonged to 
all his creatures alike. We have to pay very dearly for it 
here. 

Bermuda was a "nest of hornets" for us during the Re- 
bellion. Great shiploads of arms,, ammunition and provisions 
were sent from England, unloaded here, and by swift little 
blockade runners safely landed on the South Carolina and 
Florida coast. It was here also that the execrable wretch. 



366 Bermuda. 

Dr. Blackburn, attempted to export the yellow fever into the 
cities of the Northern States. 

The position of Bermuda is peculiar. By placing one 
point of a compass in the center of these islands and the other 
in New York, then by sweeping it to the left through Charles- 
ton and around to the West Indies, it will be found almost 
equi-distant from those points. The nearest land is Cape 
Hatteras, six hundred and nineteen miles distant. From 
Turks Island it is about seven huadred, miles, and to New York 
about six hundred and seventy-seven miles . It is undoubtedly 
the peak of a sea mountain as high from the bottom of the 
ocean as Mount Blanc is above the level of the sea. It shows 
no evidence of volcanic origin. It seems to owe its existence 
above water to the little coral workers assisted by the winds 
and waves. It is supposed by geologists that the deposits of 
the coral insect upon the granite peaks of the submarine 
mountains have built up what we see of the islands. 

These are said to be three hundred and sixty-five islands 
in the group — one for every day in the year. In fact there are 
only about one hundred worthy of the name of islands. The 
five largest are situated so as to form, in appearance, but one 
island. The other islands are scattered over the sounds and 
are very small, ranging from five to one hundred yards in di- 
ameter. From the top of the lighthouse the group looks some- 
thing like a large fish hook — ^the bait end being at the dock 
yard and only a few feet wide, while the line end is nineteen 
miles northeast, and about two miles wide. The sounds and 
harbors are in the center and can only be entered from the 
north or reef side. The reefs extend from the north coast— 
the bent part of the hook — from ten to twenty miles out in the 
sea. None of the reefs are above water and there are but three 
or four channels through which ships can enter. This makes 
the entrance to the lagoon, or deep water between the reefs 
and the islands, very dangerous to all but skilled pilots. No 
ship will attempt to enter the harbor after sunset. If we count 
the numerous little rocks of coral that peep their noses above 
the water, we can make three hundred and sixty-five islands 
with but little trouble and perhaps many more. I counted 
twenty-seven from one point of view. The whole group only 
contains about twenty square miles of territory. The land has 
either subsided or the waters have raised about fort3^-four feet, 
which is proved by finding cedar trees, rooted in rich soil and 
standing vertically, that depth under the present surface of the 
water. The most elevated ground is only about two hundred 
and sixty feet above the sea. The whole surface is very hilly. 
There is but little flat land and only about one acre in twenty 
worth cultivating. The whole substratum is coral rock, the 



Quarrying with Saws. 367 

soil varying from a few inches to, perhaps, two or three feet in 
the valleys. The soil, however, such as it is, is very fertile 
and produces three crops a year. In the olden time the islands 
were covered with cedars, almost equal to the famous trees of 
Lebanon. The early settlers built great ships wholly of that 
wood. The ground is cultivated chiefly by the spade and hoe;, 
plows are seldom used. The coral rock is very soft when first 
quarried. It is sawed out of the quarry by common rip saws, 
in large blocks, then sawed up into smaller building blocks 
with common cross-cut and hand saws. It looks strange to 
see the masons pick up a block of stone and saw it, in a few 
minutes, into the desired shape. The houses are all built of 
this rock ; they are roofed with the same material sawed in 
thin layers about two inches thick and one foot square, 
joined by the best Portland cement and whitewashed. Most 
of the houses are but one story high and are always kept white- 
washed and clean. All the rain water is drained from the roofs 
into underground reservoirs. This is required by law, as the 
onh' drinking water on the islands is what is gathered from rain 
falls. Some of the barren hill tops are covered with white- 
washed cement, forming great water-sheds for the public reser- 
voirs. As an exception to the general rule there are some 
very beautiful mansions and public buildings. 

A remarkable peculiarity of the soil and rock is the im- 
mediate absorption of water. Fifteen minuses after a heavy 
rain the roads and walks are dry and entirely free from mud. 
There is but little dust in the roads or streets ; this gives a 
fresh appearance to the green cedar trees and abundant flowers. 
Most of the roads resemble asphaltum streets. They are cut 
down in some places fifty feet through the soft rock, the sides 
being perpendicular and the roadbed solid rock ; this, with the 
cedars and oleander trees, gives a shaded way very pleasant 
to drive upon. There are but few more cheerful and romantic 
drives in the world than those over the delightful roads of 
Bermuda. 

The climate is more even than in the same latitude in 
other countries. While the cold Northern winds cross the warm 
Gulf Stream, all the icy frost is melted out. It never freezes 
here ; the temperature is said never to fall below fifty degrees, 
and during the summer months seldom to rise above eightj^ de- 
grees. Coming from the hot climate of Jamaica, we at first 
felt cold and required our winter clothing, including overcoats. 
The common people have no fires in their houses even in 
winter ; if they get chilly they go to bed in daytime and stay 
there till the weather moderates. 

For three or four days we did not feel as well as we did in 
Jamaica ; perhaps this was due to the sudden check of 



.368 Sickness. 

;^erspiratioii. I do not believe Bermuda is a healthy place for 
an invalid, especially for persons suffering from lung diseases. 
Colds are very common here notwithstanding all the allegations 
of the inhabitants to the contrary. It is said, however, that 
malaria is unknown here. It is, undoubtedly, a good place 
for overworked persons in good health. Most of the visitors 
from the North complain of insomnia. We have enjoyed but 
few nights of quiet and refreshing sleep since we arrived. 

Much of the sicknes3 among Northern visitors is the result 
of dissipation and indiscretion. They come from the icy at- 
mosphere of the North and finding, the air soft and pleasant 
here, they throw off their heavy flannels, dress in their surn- 
mer clothing and expose themselves to the night air when the 
thermometer is below sixty degrees. This is especially the 
case with thoughtless girls. We see them at the weekly balls 
of the Hamilton Hotel in bare arms, bare backs, bare bosoms 
and bare faces, flirting with the red-coated officers of the 
British army now stationed here. They dance until they are 
in a state of free perspiration, almost hissing hot, then rush 
out for fresh air and remain out until completely chilled The 
result is : A plump, rosy-cheeked maiden to-night — to-mor- 
row night a sick girl ; a hacking cough and hectic flush in a 
month, and at the end of the year the coughing ends with a 
coffin. 



XVII 



Four Black to One White Person— A Hint for Our 
Southern States— Americans not Permitted to Own 
IvAND — An Ugty Report About General Hastings, of 
Ohio — Unusually Honest and Pious People — Some 
Inconsistencies— Amusements, Innocent and Other- 
wise — A New York Belle who Left Because She had 
Nothing to Wear— Dock Yard and Defences of the 
Islands. 

Bermuda, March, 1891, 
The entire resident population of Bermuda does not ex- 
ceed fifteen thousand. Of these seven-tenths are black or col- 
ored. Hamilton, the chief cit}-, has a population of about two 
•thousand. The colored people are polite, well dressed, fairly 
educated and speak good English. They have no patois like 
Jamaica. The early settlers attempted to reduce North 
American Indians to slavery, and to that end sent large num- 
bers of them here. Most of them died under the cruel effort 



Alien Land Laws. . 369 

to enslave them. They, however, mixed with the black slaves 
and have left a distinct trace of Indian blood among the color- 
ed people. The color line is distinctly drawn, and notwith- 
standing the disparity in numbers, the white people rule. 
By the laws of the land the right of suffrage is only enjoyed 
by male citizens possessed of at least three hundred dollars' 
worth of property. No person is eligible to office who does 
not own a freehold estate worth at least twelve hundred dol- 
lars. The. rich colored people vote with the whites and carry 
every election by large majorities. Here is a hint tor our 
Southern States. 

As a rule the people are kind and courteous to strangers. 
It is their policy to be so ; but the English government early 
realized the danger of permitting Americans to own land. 
They knew that in a few years the rich men of America (as 
they call the United States), would own every inch of land 
and then what would become of Bermuda's loyalty to the 
Crown ? To prevent the impending danger they have passed 
and strictly enforce an alien law making it unlawful for any 
foreigner to hold, inherit, or transmit real estate, and escheat- 
ing to the Crown all lands held contrary to this statute The 
Ohio General Hastings owns a beautiful villa here called Fairy 
Land, and there is a very ugly rumor (which I hope is not 
true) that to keep his villa he has taken the oath of allegiance to 
the Queen. If this is not true General Hastings ought to deny 
it, for it is in everybody's mouth here and tends to lower him 
v^ry much among the American people. If I am not mistaken 
he now draws a large pension from the United States Govern- 
ment for the loss of his leg in battle under his country's flag. 
Allegiance to the Queen must mean disloyalty to the United 
States, especially if the two countries should become embroiled 
in war. There are certain suggestions that no honorable 
man can entertain, no matter what the reward or financial 
necessity. I do not believe a man can be found in Pennsyl- 
vania, no matter how poor or humble, who would renounce his 
allegiance to his country for the whole of Bermuda. Such a 
suggestion would be as repulsive as an offer to purchase his 
hope of heaven or his faith in God. 

In matters of etiquette the Bermudians are very exacting. 
They get this from the great number of British officers station- 
ed here. It is impossible to enter society without a formal 
introduction. Permission must be formally asked to visit the 
government docks or gardens and grounds of the private villas, 
but it is never refused. Indeed, they take great pains to make 
the visit as pleasant as possible. 

The common people are said to be more than usually 
honest. It is no uncommon thing for a shopkeeper to go to 



370 '. Honesty and Piety. 



dinner without shutting his store door or leaving any one in 
charge. I had occasion to make a small purchase in quite a 
large variety store. The proprietor, without a moment's hes- 
itation, left me in charge of his store while he went out for 
five or six minutes to hunt change for a half sovereign. I am 
inclined, however, to attribute this exceptional probity to the 
certainty of detection and the impossibility of escape. The 
place is too small and is too much isolated to permit a criminal 
to get away. He could neither hide himself nor his plunder, 
nor could he safely sell it. It would not be very difficult to 
search every suspect on the islands. As an answer, however, 
to this vaunted allegation of superior honesty, it is difficult to 
account for the expensive machinery of Justice here, if there 
is no need of it. I notice quite a large court house and jail ; 
regular courts, a Chief Justice and two assistant Judges with 
greater salaries than Pennsylvania pays to her Judges ; an 
Attorney General with a salary of three thousand dollars, and 
fees amounting to as m.uch more ; a Solicitor General, Provost 
Marshal, Prothonotary and all the other necessar}^ officers of a 
first-class court, and yet the whole population of the islands 
is not one-fourth that of Delaware county. 

They also claim unusual piety in matters of religion. I 
have no doubt, from the number and splendor of their churches, 
that they are very devout Christians, but I wish to call 
attention to a fact in apparent inconsistency with such a claim. 
The New York steamers arrive every Sunday about noon . The 
event is celebrated by the presence of all the inhabitants of 
the town. Every hack is on the wharf and all the hotels have 
their runners there. As I was taught to revere the Sabbath 
and have made it a rule of my life to attend divine worship 
every Sunday morning if possible, I arose early on mj' first 
Sunday and determined to go to some convenient church. 
Upon consulting the bulletin board in the hall of our hotel, I 
was surprised to find that not a church in the city was open 
on Sunday morning. I could find them in the country by 
hiring a carriage at a dollar an hour ; but the city churches 
were only open in the evening. On inquiry I learned the 
reason. The poor preachers had to talk to empty pews as soon 
as the signal went up announcing tha. t.ie New York ship had 
entered th^); harbor. It reminded me of a camp meeting 
scene I witnessed a few years ago at Renoboth. The bathing- 
hour arrived while a celebrated preacher was eloquently dis- 
coursing upon "The Immortality of the Soul." In less than 
five minutes a large congregation of devout listeners were in 
their tents adjusting their bathing robes, and the preacher 
was compelled to close his sermon without finishing his 
subject. 



Nothing to Wear. 371 

The principal amusements here are sailing around the 
sounds and harbors ; making excursions to the coral reefs 
some ten or fifteen miles out ; driving over the beautiful roads; 
exploring the caves, caverns and dens ; visiting the hospitable 
owners of charming villas ; attending the weekly balls at the 
Hamilton, and, among the ladies, making love and gossiping ; 
among the msn, getting drunk, smoking and gambling. 

The girls, old as well as young, cannot withstand the 
temptation to display their charms and , dresses in the ball 
room. There are some very gay and rich young widows, and 
vain mothers with their marriageable daughters boarding at 
the Hamilton. On every Tuesda}^ night we have a grand ball 
attended by all Her Majesty's military and naval heroes in 
their gold lace, tinsel and red, tailless coats. The rich citizens 
of the islands also attend with their beautiful daughters. It 
is impossible to describe the glorious display of rich dresses, 
bare skin and dazzling diamonds. We had a millionaire 
young lady here for three weeks, from New York — she would 
have staid longer but "she had nothing to wear." During 
her three weeks' stay at the Hamilton she came to the table 
three times a day in a different dress. To cap the climax, she 
wore two dresses on the same evening at the last ball she at- 
tended. She first appeared in white satin, waltzing around 
the room with a fine looking red-coat fop with a one-eye glass, 
which ' 'ever and anon he shot out, then took it up again. ' ' In 
a half hour after, she appeared on the floor with another red- 
coat, but this time she was arrayed in black, trimmed with 
point lace. During her stay she had appeared in sixty four 
different dresses. I could but moralize upon the pleasure it 
must afford her father's ghost (for he is dead they say) to 
realize the results of his lifetime of toil, economy and perhaps 
his lost soul, in the accumulation of his millions. They were 
being dispersed b}' his dashing daughter to advertise some 
New York silk store, while she is but a walking model for some 
Parisian modiste. 

England has spent an enormous sum in improving and 
strengthening her hold upon these islands. While in size they 
are marked on the map of the world by a pin point, in naval 
importance they are only equaled by Malta. Every salient 
point has been fortified ; big guns bristle from forts all over 
the islands. The great dock-yards are used and are equipped 
with men and machinery for the repair of the largest ships of 
war in the British navy. The floating dock, made in England 
and towed here by four large men-of-war a few years ago, is the 
largest in the world and will, with ease, bring to the surface the 
keel of the greatest ship ever built. It would be impossible 
to capture the place by direct assault, but the improvements 



3/2 Chance for Escape, 

and discoveries in modern warfare have rendered most of 
these costly defenses entirely valueless. Even the splendid 
harbDr, capable of sheltering the entire British navy, would be 
useless in time of war. The islands are so narrow that an 
attacking fleet could cover every inch of the harbor with explo- 
sive shells at a distance of three or four miles from the shore. 
If war should ever be declared between England and the 
United States, the place would be very hard to defend. It 
could only be saved from destruction by a naval fight. The 
ships in the harbor would have to come out and fight in the 
open sea, or be destroyed in their shelter. The people seem 
to realize that this would be the probable result in case of war. 
I had intended to make this my last letter but I am un- 
able to say all of Bermuda that I have observed as worthy of 
note, in time for the mail which closes to-day at 12. 



XVill 



A Chance for Escape— The Spanish Rock, Devil and. 
Heretics — Vegetation Injured by the Salt Spray — 
The Unfortunate New Cathedral — An Old Female 
Poker Player — The Beautiful Drives — Caverns and 
Grottoes — A Day at the Dock-yard — An Old Sail- 
or's Pun — A Genuine Octopus. 

Bermuda, March, 1891. 
By a happy succession of fortunate circumstances I will 
be able to shorten my term of imprisonment one week. Two 
young ladies of our hotel are so enamored with the place and 
have been the objects of such marked attention from certain 
red-coated young men, that they expressed a desire to remain 
another week. From pure gallantry, I offered to exchange 
my splendid stateroom on the new ship Trinidad for a very 
bad one on the old Orinoco, which is to sail a week earlier. 
By this simple arrangement we were all made happy. They 
get another week to flirt with their beaux and I will get home 
a week sooner than I had hoped to. Thus we see another il- 
lustration of the old saying, " One man's misery is another's 
joy." Now that we feel sure of being able to leave the beau- 
tiful islands, we feel less inclined to go. It is certainly a 
charming place (for a week). The climate is cool and moist 
without being cold and wet. I, however, love warm weather. 
I enjoy the long summer days. It is seldom too hot for me, 
except in politics ; then they sometimes make it pretty warm. 



Spanish Rock. 373 

but I generally manage to live through it and, on the whole, 
rather enjoy even political — fire. 

There is a high coral bluff on the south coast of the main 
island known as Spanish Rock, before alluded to. It has some- 
cabalistic characters engraved upon its almost perpendicular 
face, about one hundred feet up from the sea, which is said to be 
over three miles deep at this place. The engraving on the rock 
is surmounted by a cross. The tradition among the people is, 
that the inscription was made by John Bermudez, the discov- 
erer of the islands ; but this is a mistake, as I learned from old 
records hereinafter mentioned. We visited the rock a few days 
ago and found the date engraved upon it to be A. D. 1543. 
By permission of the obliging Librarian of the public library 
in the Parliament building, I was shown I^e Froy's Bermuda,, 
compiled from Colonial Records dating from 161 1 to 1652. 
Among other rare books he showed me one in Old English 
Black Letter, printed in 161 3. From these records it appears 
that Juan Bermudez merely reported his discovery to the 
Spanish king ; that afterwards many ships were wrecked upon 
the treacherous reefs ; that at last the king, being anxious to 
populate the islands, granted a charter to a Portuguese named 
Ferdinand Camelo, who, it is said, merely visited the islands 
and carved his initials and the date of taking possession upon 
the cliff, since called Spanish Rock, which he surmounted 
with a cross for the purpose, as he reported, of " frightening 
off the Divil and Heretics.''' He must have abandoned his 
grant, for the next authentic record we have is the report of 
Gonzales Ferdinand d' Oviedo, in 161 1. After the frightful 
shipwreck that cast Sir George Somers on the shore, the Eng- 
lish became acquainted with it, and have possessed it ever 
since. It is very doubtful whether the engraving on the rock 
was not the work of some shipwrecked sailor, as parts of a 
wreck have been recently found in the deep water near the 
rock. The property now belongs to Clarence Peniston, the 
present Provost Marshal, and a gentleman of great culture and 
social standing. We became acquainted with him by special 
introduction and have enjoyed the hospitality of himself and 
accomplished lady. They are among the oldest families of 
the islands. I found the name of his ancestors in the old 
records that I examined in the library. 

We have had two or three days of very rainy weather ; I 
suppose it is the equinoctial storm. It is cool but not frosty. 
While it never freezes here, the islands are subject to dreadful 
storms. The trouble with the climate seems to be its sudden- 
changes from sunshine to rain. When the temperature falls 
below sixty degrees there is great danger of taking cold. They 
start the fires in the hotel grates when the thermometer falls 



374 The ChaPel of Ease. 

to fifty-eight degrees. This makes it too warm ; then to 
escape the heat of the house the guests go upon the porches 
and promenades, and almost before they are aware of it, begin 
to sneeze and cough. In the great storm of December last the 
whole surface of the islands was covered with a salt spray for 
several days. When the sun came out again the inhabitants 
were surprised to find what looked like a hoar frost on the 
trees, shrubs, flowers and grass. All the onions, lilies and 
potatoes appeared to be frost bitten. The leaves of all the sub- 
tropical plants and trees w^re killed. The bananas were 
severely injured and have not yet recovered. The great india 
rubber tree, with its spreading branches fifty feet long had all 
its foliage killed. It was found that the spray from the sea 
for two or three days had left a crust of salt over the islands 
which had proved very destructive to early and tender vege- 
tables. One of the disastrous effects of this storm was to nearly 
destroy the splendid new Cathedral, one of the most beautiful 
and prominent buildings in Bermuda. This church seems to be 
doomed to more than ordinary misfortunes. It was built in 
1850, at a cost of sixty thousand dollars, and was so graceful 
and beautiful in all its details, that its congregation called it 
the " Chapel of Ease." In 1884 it was burned to the ground 
by an incendiary who has never been discovered. The con- 
gregation with remarkable energy rebuilt it more beautiful 
than before. Just as it was nearly completed and was the 
object of general adiniration, the great wind storm of Novem- 
ber last nearly ruined it. The new edifice had cost nearly 
eighty thousand dollars. The congregation, though unfortun- 
ate, were not disheartened. They have nearly restored the 
damage caused by the storm. It stands upon the highest 
ground in Hamilton and is one of the first objects that strikes 
the traveler's eye as he enters the harbor. 

There is an eccentric old woman now boarding at the 
Hamilton Hotel, who is an inveterate poker player — not "baby 
poker" for chips, but the real thing without limit. She is 
reputed to be very rich. To ease her conscience and bring 
good luck while she is here she gives all her winnings for the 
repair of the church, and when at home she devotes her earn- 
ings at the game to charity generally. Singular as it may 
seem she generally wins more than she loses. 

There are five or six three-hour drives over excellent roads, 
and two drives that take all day. In addition to these there 
are five or six drives of an hour, and two or three sails, with 
one steamboat excursion to the reefs ; these completely show 
all that is worth seeing in Bermuda. One week is sufficient to 
see it all. There are no railroads, as the distances are too 
■short to make even a street railway profitable. There are 



The Dock- yards. 375 

thousands of persons on these islands who have never seen a 
railroad, a snow storm or natural ice. 

The drives are mostly through the rich valleys and show 
off the place to great advantage. We see hundreds of acres of 
onions, potatoes, tomatoes and Easter lilies, all cultivated, in 
small patches, by hand. The islands have several very pretty 
caves. When you have seen one, however, you have :-een them 
all. The guide of the grotto for a fee, shows you what he calls 
a Cathedral, with vaulted roof hanging with stalactites and the 
floor full of stalagmites, which he calls altars and angels. 
They show you dungeons, bridal chambers, sacred fountains, 
silver lake.= , holy fonts, etc., by candle light and burning 
torches of palmetto branches. It requires about as much im- 
agination to convert these caves — reached by crooked holes, 
over boulders and by rough, dirty wooden ladders — into 
churches, altars, bridal chambers, etc., as old Polonius required 
to convert Hamlet's cloud into a ship, a whale and a camel. 
While he could see its likeness to a ship and its resemblance 
to a whale, he could only compromise the last questionby ad- 
mitting that it was ''backed like a camel." 

By making written application, permission will be sent b}' 
mail to visit Her Majesty's dock-yard. All visitors are re- 
quired upon presenting their passes to register their names, 
country and business or profession. If the authorities are 
then satisfied that no designs are intended against the Majest}' 
of England, an officer will be detailed to show you through 
the machine shops, ship yards and great floating dock, un- 
doubtedly the largest in the world and capable of raising out 
of water the heaviest ship in the British navy. The machine 
shops and ship yards are not worth looking at ; they are toys 
as compared with Roach's in Chester. There is an old wooden 
war ship lying at the dock, used as a place for sailors to sleep; 
it is a very interesting study and clearly represents old-time 
naval architecture. She was built in 1815, and is called "The 
Irresistible." Our grandchildren will have nothing but old 
paintings to give them an idea of one of these old wooden 
men-of-war, with three gun decks and seventy-four guns, 
great masts and full-rigged square sails, and high quarter 
deck where the captain and naval officers sat like monarchs of 
a wooden world. They build no new ships at these j^ards ; 
they are entirely devoted to repairing disabled vessels. 

A fleet of five large war ships entered the harbor a few 
days ago. As soon as the signal was raised all the horses and 
carriages were engaged and every person that could get away 
drove over to the North shore to view the sight. It was a very 
pretty spectacle to see these great steamers, manned, with their 
colors flying, sweeping majestically along the entire North 



376 An Octopus. 

•coast from the entrance through the narrow channel at St. 
George's, down to the dock-yards, about nineteen miles. They 
have been cruising in Southern seas and are now slowly mov- 
ing towards Northern waters. 

They utilize everything at the dock-yards ; even old con- 
demned boilers are cut up and converted into buoys (the Eng- 
lish pronounce the word boys). The old officer who showed us 
around got off a very bad pun on the word. Looking quiz- 
zically at the buoys, he said : " What a good thing it would 
be if they could cut us old fellows up after we are worn out 
and make buoys (boys) of us." Of course we all laughed very 
heartily at the wretched pun, which tickled the old fellow 
so much that he absolutely refused a proffered tip after his 
task was done. We learned afterwards, however, that the 
commandant had strictly forbidden the ushers to accept tips 
trom visitors. 

I saw at the dock-yard what I had often read about but 
never seen before, a genuine Octopus. I had read Homer's 
story of the destruction of one of old Ulyses' ships and nine of 
his sailors by one of these terrible sea monsters. I also re- 
membered a very vivid description of the one that seized the 
villain, Clubin, by the heel and left nothing but his skeleton 
in a cavern at the rocks of Dover, so graphically portrayed by 
Victor Hugo in his "Toilers of the Sea." I also had a dim 
recollection of Congressman Jack Robinson's reference to the 
political Octopus that gave him so much annoyance in his 
Congressional campaign, but I had never seen a living Devil 
Fish before. True it was but a baby only four feet long, but 
it was large enough and strong enough to kill a man if he 
should be so unfortunate as to come within the embrace of its 
ugly arms. One of the gentlemen punched it with his cane ; 
in an instant it seized the stick with one of its snake-like arms 
and it required all the man's strength to withdraw his cane 
from the hold its suckers had taken upon it. It had been 
caught by a fisherman by making a loop on a rope and quietly 
dropping it over its head. 



Visiting the Reefs. 377 



XIX. 

A Sail Among the Small Islands — The Coral Reefs — 
Rock Studies on the Coast — St. George— A Church 
Schism with its Usual Conseouenses — Prosperous and 
Crowded Hotels — Angry Excursionists from Boston 
— A Glance at Bermuda Society— Her Majesty's Tail- 
less Red Coats — Faded Roses. 

Bermuda, March, 1891. 
The trip to the dock-yard is generally made in small 
steamers. It gives a very pleasant hour's sail among the 
beautiful little islands in the harbor. These small green is- 
lands, some of them not fifty yards in diameter, reminded me 
somewhat of the Thousand Isles of the St. L,awrence. We 
have now explored all the islands, caves, rocks and hills usu- 
ally visited by strangers here. 

Hamilton is situated in about the center of the islands. 
It takes a full day by carriage to visit St. George at the ex- 
treme Northeast; and about the same time to go to the Light- 
house and Ireland island at the extreme Southeast. The usual 
drives lequire about five days, after which there is nothing more 
to see, unless the tourist desires to visit the reefs. To do this 
he must hire a tug at a cost of one hundred dollars and small 
boats at one dollar each. It will take an entire day to make the 
excursion as the reefs are from ten to thirty miles off the North 
shore. The water between the reefs and the North shore is 
called the Lagoon and, when once within it, it affords a safe 
harbor for any sized ship. None but skillful pilots, however, 
can enter this harbor. To reduce the expense, travelers gen- 
erally club together and hire the tug and boats, and provide a 
lunch and long sea tongs to secure specimens of coral as souv- 
enirs. One of the most pleasant drives is to Tuckertcwn , on the 
South shore. The rocks are very interesting ; in some places 
they stand up seventy feet perpendicular. The action of the 
waves has made great caverns, natural bridges and other very 
interesting rock studies. The old Spanish Rock— described in 
my last letter — is on this drive. I found a very pretty piece of 
coral and captured a " Porhtgicese man-of-war'''' (a species of 
Nautilus), on this coast. I hope to be able to bring my prize 
home if I can do so without bursting his blubber sail. I hap- 
pened to find the tide unusually low, and by partially undres- 
sing and clambering like a ten-year-old Doy down the sharp 
and rugged edge of the rocks, and then wading out into the 
sea, I secured m}^ specimens. We only prize what we secure 



3/8 A Fine Ruin. 

b}^ great labor or danger, and as I secured these specimens by 
my own labor and not without some danger, I value them far 
above their intrinsic worth. Very fine specimens of coral can 
be bought here for a few shillings. 

The drive, usually taken first, is along the North shore, 
around Harrington Sound and by the "Devil's Hole" and 
Joyce's Caves, and back over Prospect Hill, which is crowned 
by a fort and gives a fine view of all the islands southwest. 
The "Devil's Hole" is a cavern in a hillside having a subterra- 
nean communication with the sea. It is full of all kinds of 
enormous fish, crabs, lobsters and turtles. Some of the fish 
are four feet long and very voracious. They say they will 
devour dogs and even children if they happen to fall into the 
hole. This is, however, anon dif, and must be taken with due 
allowance. The owner of the hole charges a shilling for a 
look into it. Sometimes he takes as much as twenty-five dol- 
lars a day from visitors. 

St. George, the oldest part of the islands, can be visited 
either by land or water. The authorities have built a very 
substantial causeway at least half a mile long, connecting St. 
George with Hamilton. There are some very interesting rock 
studies on the North coast at St. George. The eternal dash 
of the waves against the soft coral rock has washed them into 
innumerable fantastic forms, caves, natural bridges, deep 
caverns and columns fifty feet high, apparently just ready to 
topple over. 

On the hill, just back from the harbor, stands the oldest 
church in Bermuda, Near the old church stands what appears 
to be a grand ruin. It is quite large and of fine Gothic archi- 
tecture. Nothing stands but the bare walls of cut coral rock. 
I supposed I was looking upon some old ruined cathedral It 
only wanted some ivy, and an old gatekeeper with an invented 
legend and a charge of sixpence, to make it equal to many of 
the interesting ruins of the Old World. When I learned its 
history, the illusion vanished. Instead of a ruined abbey, 
some three hundred years old, it was but twelve 3^ears since it 
was built. The church authorities of the old cathedral con- 
ceived the idea of erecting a new and more imposing church. 
They sent to England for architects and plans and commenced 
the work with great energy. Just as the mason work was 
completed, and the structure was ready for its roof, the Devil 
entered the church in the form of a schism between the ritual- 
ists and low church party. Singular as it may seem, all the 
colored people were extreme high churchmen ; so the colored 
question also entered into the quarrel. Finally the white peo- 
ple withdrew, leaving the Bishop and his colored friends in 
peaceable possession of the bare walls and a heavy debt. For 



An Excursion from Boston. 379 

twelve years no work has been done. Grass, shrubber}' and 
even large trees have grown up in the nave and around the 
abandoned walls, giving it the ruined appearance before men- 
tioned. 

The people say that this has been the most successful 
year for tourists the islands have ever seen. All the hotels 
are crowded. The Hamilton has about one hundred more 
guests than can be accommodated with apartments. They 
sleep in the neat little houses of the town and take their meals 
at the hotel at five dollars a daj^ To add to the plethora of 
visitors, a ship load of Boston excursionists, for Jamaica, were 
suddenly emptied into the town a few days ago. Thej^ had 
paid for one day in Bermuda, horses and carriages included. 
As soon as the agent could land, he hired every free horse and 
wagon he could for the day. As a natural consequence the 
other guests could not get a carriage for love or money, and 
could but give vent to their indignation by cursing the excur- 
sionists. About every other man I met used the "big D." 
The hotel proprietors had to convert the side parlors and bath 
rooms into sleeping places. There were several very respect- 
able gentlemen with their wives and daughters on the excur- 
sion who had been inveigled into purchasing a ticket by read- 
ing the highly colored handbills and flaming posters issued by 
the person who got up the excursion. The vo^^age from Bos- 
ton to Jamaica, stopping a day at Bermuda and back to Boston 
was to be accomplished in twenty days. They were five days 
reaching Bermuda, and cannot possibly reach Jamaica in less 
than five days more ; this, with the da}' spent here, will make 
eleven days, only allowing them nine days to return ; so the}' 
can only look at the shores of Jamaica without landing if they 
return to Boston within the twenty days for which the ship 
was chartered. 

There is but one opinion among the excursionists, and 
that is that they have been badly sold. They swear vengeance 
c gainst the persons who got up the excursion, but cm only find 
about two innocent persons on the ship, hired to show them 
around, but who had nothing whatever to do with the swindle. 
When they get home they will probably find no responsible per- 
son to answer in damages for the broken contract, to take one 
hundred and eight}' persons from Boston to Jamaica, giving 
five days on the island, and one on the Bermudas, and return to 
Boston in hventy days, A more demoralized set of half-seasick 
creatures, as they herded together like swine on the ship, I 
never saw. Many of them forfeited their tickets and stayed 
in Bermuda determined to seek redress when they get home, 
but as before stated, the process will probably be returned — 
'' N^onest invenUis." 



380 Society. 

We cannot close our notes on Bermuda without a glance 
at its social side. The precise meaning of the word Society, 
is hard to well define. We may call it The general associa- 
tion of refined people. Proper human intercourse, or the 
enjoyments of human society according to the rules of polite- 
ness established by well-bred people. It includes social visits, 
friendly salutations, agreeable little courtesies, evening parties, 
teas, dinners, parlor entertainments, rural and manly sports 
and games, in a word, every enjoyment recognized by the 
usages of polite and refined people. The crowning glory of 
Society is a fashionable wedding or a grand ball. In the 
sense of the word as above defined, I may say that the society 
of Bermuda is good. The better classes are extremely hospit- 
able, while most of the people, even in the humbler walks, 
are polite. I am sorry I cannot say c.s much for some of our 
countrymen now sojourning in Bermuda. I do not think 
Society xn Philadelphia, New York or Boston, is fairly repre- 
sented here. Our American women are entirely too loud, 
demonstrative and independent to make a good impression. I 
only speak, however, of a few. Most of the American ladies 
here are refined in their manners as well as elegant in their 
attire. There are, however, a few women here who, daily as 
well as weekly, make fools of themselves. They wear great 
flashy diamonds when they ought not ; they wear ball room 
dresses at the table ; the}^ expose their bare arms even to their 
arm-pits, and bosoms and backs further than decency permits 
and they talk too much of their horses, houses and country 
places. At the weekly balls some of the women who are old 
enough to be grandmothers dress like girls of eighteen. To 
see one ball is not to comprehend them all. The last ball was 
conspicuous more for its wall flowers than its rose buds. One 
or two old dowagers appeared in very low-necked dresses, ex- 
posing their painted ribs, that reminded us more of the shades 
of death than the fountains of life. What was lacking in youth 
was made up in pearls, diamonds and gaudy dresses. I saw 
but one really beautiful woman, over forty, in the ball room. I 
will not name her for obvious reasons. As long as she is un- 
named every old skeleton present on that occasion will think I 
mean her. There's nothing like a little policy to get along 
smoothly in this world. 

The Queen's guards and naval ofiicers were present in 
force, decorated with gold lace and in bright red jackets. I 
think the Queen ought to put tails to the red coats of her sol- 
diers. It would add very much to their grace in the ball room, 
and as that is about the only use she puts them to here, she 
ought to consider their personal appearance in " Society, you 
know." 



Hunting in Virginia, 



One fat fellow, with a short neck and big jaw, wore a 
jacket about two sizes too small. While dancing, bending 
and bowing, his jacket worked up to his arm-pits, exposing 
his flannel shirt to the great amusement of his comrades. 
They don't wear suspenders. 

The old girls of from forty -five to sixty reminded me of 
over-ripe fruit and withered flowers. They had been de- 
licious and fragrant in their day, but they have forgotten that 
the sweetest roses wither and the finest fruit decays. Where 
will the lovely white lilies and beautiful flowers that decorate 
the ball room and repose so temptingly upon the fair bosoms 
of the gay and happy damsels, be to-morrow night ? Some of 
them will be worn by the servant girls, others will be thrown 
into the slop jars. But if I continue the comparison further 
I may be taken for a pessimist, which I am not. I believe in 
young people enjoying themselves to the full extent of the 
good things of life, but I do not believe in young people be- 
coming prematurely old, nor in old people trying by paint, 
powder and perfume, to reverse the order of Nature by coun- 
terfeiting youth. 

This letter will close my comments on Bermuda. Our 
ship sails to-day at i P. M. 



XX. 



Hunting in Virginia — A Marylander's Opinion op Yan- 
kees—Virginia Hospitality — A I^ost Dog — Woodcock 
AND Woodpeckers — Our First Duck — Coon Hunt — 
" Dem Weeds Dat Hab Roots at Both Ends" — The 
Lost Found — An Anecdote — •" Mileions of Ducks " — 
A Sweet Sleep in the Open Field — Fireside Stories 
— Dilapidation and Waste. 

ExMORE, Va., December, 1892. 
Our party consisted of three boys, under forty, two men, 
over sixty, five good dogs and two pups. We got a hint that 
Mr. Clev-eland was going to Exmore to shoot ducks, so we 
organized our little party to see whether we could not kill 
more partridges than his party did waterfowl. 

While on our journey in the cars, we overheard a Mary- 
land "gentleman" express his opinion of Yankees. He said : 
' ' One of them came down here four years ago and bought five 
hundred acres of cripple land for five hundred dollars and sot 
it all out in peach trees. Three years after his 'crap' of peaches 
paid for his farm. I was fool enough to buy his plantation. 



382 A Lost uog. 

for five thousand dollars. The next year the trees began to 
die. T never got a paying 'crap.' If you vv^ant to be beat, 
bargain with a Jew or a Yankee." 

We left Chester at eleven A. M., and arrived at Exniore 
about four P. M. Our point of destination was the farm of 
W. J. James, Esq., about ten miles from the station. We had 
written to him three days in advance to meet us at the station 
with a team to take us to his house. When we arrived no one 
was there to receive us. On inquiry we learned that the mails 
went to Jamesville but twice a week, and it was quite prob- 
able that our letter had not yet been received. We hired car- 
riages to take us to the nearest hotel, at Dell Haven, about a 
mile away, but when we were making arrangements with the 
landlord for accommodations, a team with two fine little Vir- 
ginia horses came at a very rapid rate down the road. It 
proved to be the wagon of our host, Mr. James. He was sick 
in bed when our letter reached him, about two hours before 
but rather than disappoint us, he had left his bed and came 
for us. We drove back to the station, loaded his wagon with 
our trunks, dog-cakes, guns and ammunition, and had a 
splendid ten miles ride by moonlignt to his mansion. When 
about eight miles from the station, one of the young dogs gave 
a yelp and turned back as fast as he could run. We stopped- 
our wagon and ran back after him calling and whistling as we 
ran, but the fool ran faster than we could, and was soon out 
of sight. We lost a half hour in our vain efforts to recover 
the poor brute, then gave it up in despair and slowly wended 
omr way homeward, in the hope that the idiot canine would 
have natural instinct enough to follow our trail, but we heard 
nothing more of him, and reluctantly gave him up as lost. 
We regretted our bad luck very much, as he was a full -bred 
Irish setter, and was highly prized by his master in Chester, 
from whom we had borrowed him. 

When we arrived at the home of Mr. James, we were cor- 
dially received by his excellent and obliging wife, who wel- 
comed us to a warm fireside and a good supper. She had only 
expected two guests, but showed no embarrassment when she 
found five hungry men and six dogs emptied into her house- 
hold. A peculiar trait ol Virginia hospitality is the abun- 
dance of food upon the family table. She had provided for 
two and had more than enough for ten. We cannot too highlj^ 
express our admiration for our kind and obliging hostess. 
Although her husband was sick, she soon provided comfortable 
sleeping accommodations for us all. Her beds were soft, he 
table well supplied and her fireside always cheerful. She ha 
three bright, well-bred and intelligent boys, ranging from te^ 



Disappointed Hunters. 385 

to seventeen years of age, who were untiring in their efforts to 
serve us and make our short sojourn agreeable. 

■ The day after our arrival was Sunday, we took a stroll 
over the farm, and on our return enjoyed a grand oyster roast 
upon the shore at the end of the lawn. The mansion is beau- 
tifully situated upon a rising knoll, gently sloping to the 
water's edge. The Chesapeake Bay, at this place is very wide. 
In looking out upon it, one would suppose he was gazing upon 
the broad ocean. The shore is very irregular and full of little 
bays running into the main land from a few hundred yards to 
many miles. Mr. James' house is built upon the rising shore 
of one of these little bays. In rough weather we can see the 
breakers and hear their sea-like roar, while the water in its 
branches is smooth and lake-like. The branches, or little 
bays, are planted with the most delicious and finely flavored 
oysters in the world. A great abundance of them were dail)^ 
provided for our use and wood was always ready for a roast. 

The weather has been very dry for several months ; as a 
consequence the fresh water springs and little streams are dry 
and as partridges are great water drinkers, they have migrated 
to places where they can find fresh springs. We never saw 
better feeding ground or finer cover for quail than in this part 
of Virginia, but, for the reason above given, the birds are very 
scarce and mostly found in the pine thickets and almost bound- 
less woods. It requires long tramps and industrious hunting 
to find them, and when found, they must be shot upon the 
"snap." 

We were agreeably surprised to learn from Mr. James that 
there were plenty of woodcock upon his farm. Our surprise 
increased when he told us that they flew from tree to tree and 
were mostly shot by boys and negroes. As a woodcock re- 
quires soft, spongy ground, and was never known to light upon 
a tree, we concluded there must be some mistake, and, upon a 
closer inquiry, we found to our disgust, as well as disappoint- 
ment, that our host, who was not much of a sportsman, had 
confounded the name of woodcock with that of woodpecker. 

The reader who has never hunted in Virginia,, will, per- 
haps, be surprised to learn that single fields often contain over 
fifty acres and are generally surrounded by pine wood land. 
These fields must be carefully hunted. When a covey is 
raised, one shot at it is all we get. The birds at once fly to 
the thick pines, where they are found and shot one by one, 
with great difiiculty. We tramped over fully a hundred miles 
of such ground, hunted faithfully from sunrise till dark, and 
succeeded in shooting about one hundred birds and several 
rabbits. When it was too dark to shoot, we had to walk from 



384 A Coon Hunt. 

two to four miles from the "using grounds" to our home, and 
were often greatly fatigued. 

One night, after a busy day, we found ourselves about 
four miles from home. The young man who was acting as our 
guide informed us that we coald save a half mile by making 
a short cut over the head of a swampy branch of the Chesa- 
peake by crossing it upon logs and trunks of trees that had 
been felled for that purpose. When we arrived at the swamp, 
we found the tide had backed the water, and that the logs 
upon which we were to cross were, in some places, several 
inches under the surface. The dampened moss had made the 
logs very slippery. One of our party ignored gum boots and 
always wore leather hunting shoes. He could wade very well 
in four inches of mud or jvat^r. To avoid getting his feet wet 
he took his shoes and stockings off, and, with his trowsers 
rolled up over his knees, and his gun and shoes in his hand, he 
was carefully feeling his way over on the logs, when one of the 
dogs, at a full run from behind, jumped between his legs and 
threw him into the water up to his hips. He crawled out 
like a drowned rat, and used some very energetic language to 
the poor dog. He had at least a mile to walk in his wet 
clothes, and naturally concluded that "the longest way around 
was sometimes the shortest way home." He, however, took 
his mishap like a philosopher, and claimed that he was the 
only one of our party that had secured a real good duck. 

One night we had an old fashioned coon hunt. We were 
smoking our Havanas, enjoying the genial warmth of a bright 
and cheerful fire, and the peaceful rest so refreshing to the 
tired limbs of a weary hunter, when a neighbor entered the 
room and informed us that his dog was on the trail of a coon 
and if we desired some sport, we could, he had no doubt, soon 
secure it. The boys of our party seized their guns and soon 
forgot their fatigue. The bark of the dog announced the 
happy news that the coon was treed. After an hour's walk 
they found him. 

ThemooD was shiuing silver bright 
,\nd stars of glory crowned the night. 
High on a limb that '<aine old coon 
Was singing to himself this tone : 
"Get out of the way, you're all unlucky. 
Clear the way for old Kentucky." 

Two loads of No. 8 shot hardly tickled him. One of the 
party had taken the precaution to bring his new choke barrel 
gun and two cartridges of heavy duck shot. This was too 
much for the poor coon. The first charge of duck shot killed 
him stone dead. We intend to have him stuffed and present 
him to the McClure Gun Club. 

Walking across an old field in Virginia at night, requires 
care and skill. The running briars take root at both ends and 



Hunting Ducks. 385 

form a sort of loop, which, unless j'oii lift the ftct high, is sure 
to trip you up. The colored people call them "trip weeds dat 
hab roots at both ends." 

On oar foLirLh day's hunt w^ went several miles into new 
territory. Being hungry, we hailed a sloop lying at anchor 
in one of the little bays and asked the captain if he had oysters 
to sell. He had nothing but sweet potatoes, but asked if we 
had not lost a dog. We informed him that we had and de- 
scribed our abandoned pup. He said the dog had been wan- 
dering about the shore all the morning. In a few minutes we 
found him. stinking with the carrion upon which he had fed 
since he left us five days before. We were glad to recover 
him and be able to restore him to his owner. We kept him a 
close prisoner until we landed him safe in the cars for Chester. 

In our wandering from farm to farm, we inquired of all 
the boys and old colored farm hands we met, if they could tell 
us where the quail "used." They all directed us to places 
where we could find plenty oi patridges, but we seldom found 
them in the places indicated. It reminded me of a hunt I once 
had on the Chowan river in North Carolina. The party were 
on Mr. Thomas Simpson's yacht "The Comet." We moored 
our little- ship to a ricket\^ old wharf and inquired of an old 
negro whether there was game around there. "O, yes," said 
he, "chere's right smart of game out here. Me and another 
fellow cotch a fine fat mush rat 'bout a quarter of a mile down 
the river about three weeks ago." 

The information we got from the old North Carolina negro 
was about as reliable as the intelligence communicated by his 
brethren of Virginia. I passed a hut full of shiny-faced urchins, 
with an old man sitting in the cabin door smoking a corn-cob 
pipe. I asked him if there were any ducks around there. "O, 
yes," said he, "millions of them ; just sneak down de branch 
and you'll get one, sure as falling off a log." This brought 
to my mind the duck one of our companions got the night 
before by "falling off a log." I crawled down the steep bank, 
got scratched by green briars and pricked b}- the sharp holly 
leaves, sneaked for five hundred yards along the ragged shore 
and through the thick underbush to a point where the ducks 
ought to be. Just as I passed the point, up jumped one of the 
largest black ducks I had ever seen. He was not over twenty 
yards from where I stood. I gave him both barrels under the 
right wing and tumbled him into the water. Alas, for the 
disappointments of a hunter's life ! I had killed an enormous 
buzzard, who had been feeding upon a dead rabbit upon the 
shore. That afternoon, while crossing a fifty acre field full of 
■"dem weeds with roots at both ends," I sat down for a few 
minutes' rest. Before I knew it, I was sound asleeep, with the 



386 Fireside Tales. 

bare, sandy soil lor my bed and a wood-grass tussock for my 
pillovv. I think I would have slept for hours had I not been 
awakened by the crack of my companions' guns at a covey of 
partridges about five hundred yards from my resting place. I 
did not suffer tat slightest injury from my half hour's sleep 
upon the ground. I would have considered it as a delibeiate 
attempt at suicide to have exposed myself in the same way 
at home. 

We spent the forenoon of our last day upon the farm of 
Mr. James' brother — a genial, whole-souled man — who leit 
nothing undone that could in any way contribute to our com- 
fort and amusement. In the afternoon his son ferried us over 
one of the branches, at least half mile wide to entirely new 
territory. While crossing, he raked up enough oysters to 
make us a good lunch. We took supper with him that night, 
and spent an hour around his comfortable fireside. It was no 
small matter to provide a meal for five hungry men, but Mrs. 
James was equal to the occasion. Her table groaned beneath 
provisions enough for twenty guests. After an hour's chat 
around the fire and the soothing influence of some good cigars, 
Mr. James harnessed his horses and drove us to his brother's 
house. This finished our hunt. 

The reader must not suppose that killing game is the only 
pleasure of a sportsman's life. Social intercourse and the 
companionship of congenial friends, fireside amusements, 
pleasant stories and exciting games, all contribute to the en- 
joyment of the occasion. 

Of the many fireside tales told by our companions of this 
hunt, two are worth preserving. One, as a simple illustration 
of natural affection, the other, a ludicrous example of the fall 
that always follows human vanity. 

A short time after the close of the war one of the gentle- 
men of our party was taking supper in a fashionable hotel in 
Washington. He suddenly heard a female cry, whether of 
joy or sorrow he could not at first tell. Turning his eyes to 
the place from whence the exclamation came, he saw an old 
negro woman with her arms around the neck of a tall, hand- 
some, and well dressed white man. His arms were around 
the poor old woman, and with his hand he patted her upon 
the back, while she hung upon his neck and kissed him over 
and over again. The interval between her kisses was filled 
with sobs and cries. "O, massa, young massa. Now let me 
die. I never hoped to see young massa again." There was 
not a scornful sneer upon a single lip, but many moistened 
eyes among the many guests in the great dining-room of that 
hotel. The old colored woman had been the gentleman's 
nurse. To use her expression, "she raised dat boy." His 



Fireside Tales. 387 

father was a rich planter before the war, and the owner of 
many slaves. The boy had enlisted in the Southern army. 
The war had wrecked his father's fortune, freed his slaves and 
scattered his household. The old nurse had drifted to Wash- 
ing-ton, and was employed as a sub-caok in the hotel. While 
attending to her duties she saw through the opea door her old 
master's favorite son, sitting at one of the tables, taking his 
Slipper. She had not seen him for many, many years, and 
thought him dead. When she recognized him she dropped her 
ladle, rushed unbidden into the dining room, and the scene 
just described tells all the rest. 

It was a simple exhibition of a sudden outburst of a long 
pent up affection. There is no eloquence more affective than 
the heart throbs of nature. The other tale told bv the same 
gentleman, is good only because of its ludicrous denouement. 
A proud old Virginian, tall and straight, with black coarse 
hair and a dark complexion, claimed to be a descendant of the 
Indian girl, Pocahontas. When Sitting Bull came to Wash- 
ington to see the Great Father, the proud old Virginian hap- 
pened to be in that city. He caused himself to be invited to 
one of the receptions at which the old Indian Chief was pres- 
ent. He lost no time to inform the Chief that he was of 
Indian extraction, and the direct descendant of an Indian 
woman. Some judges of good whisky pour a few drops in the 
palm of the hand, then after a brisk rub of the hands together, 
smell the aroma and n-:inie the brand. The old Indian with 
great dignit^^ took the would-be descendant of Pocahontas by 
the hand, rubbed their palms briskly for a short time, then 
smelled the aroma caused by the friction. He then shook 
his head and only said : " Humph ! no Indian. Nigger." 

I would like to describe the dilapidated mansions of the 
ruined old aristocratic families of Virginia ; their abandoned 
family grave yards, the wasted lands now overgrown with 
pines, their man}^ struggles to maintain dignity in their dis- 
tress and deca}^ and many other interesting matters I have 
noted, but my letter is becoming tedious b}^ its length and I 
must bring it to a close. 

When we arrived at Exmore with our game, we met a 
part of President Cleveland's party with theirs. It was 
generalh^ conceded that our partridges were worth more than 
their ducks. 



388 The Hunter's Paradise, 



XXI. 



A North Carolina Hunt in Winter — The Hunter's 
Paradise^Sundry Vicissitudes— Snow, Ice and Skat- 
ing AT Norfolk — Value of the Telephone — A Five 
Mile Ride in an Open Wagon, with the Temperaturi- 
Near Zero— Pain the Price of Pleasure— Partridges, 
Rabbits, Turkeys and Deek — A Frozen Thermometer 
— Coldest Winter in Thirty Years — A Deer Hunt, 
Five Degrees Above Zero — A Timely Blizzard — A 
Moot Court — Old " Wash " and his Toasts 

Bullock, N. C, January, 1893. 
Bullock is not a city ; it is a railroad station in Granville 
countv, North Carolina, and is situated near the confluence of 
the rivers Dan and Stanton. The river Roanoke is also within 
a short walk of the place. The close proximity of these three 
rivers and the immense tracts of waste land, covered with 
broom fields, thickets and wood, have made the neighborhood 
for miles around a paradise for hunters. Game is abundant, . 
and the game laws of the State are liberal. These happy hunt- 
ing grounds are about four hundred miles, by the shortest route, 
from Chester. To reach them it is necessary to first go to 
Norfolk, thence to Portsmouth, then one hundred and forty 
miles, to Clarksville, where another change is made, which 
carries the hunter over the Virginia line, some ten or twelve 
miles to Bullock. When we left Chester on Saturday night, 
January 7th, the weather was cold and disagreeable, and snow 
had fallen to the depth of six or seven inches. We thought it 
folly to take such a long journey if we were likely to find snow 
at the point of our destination, and, therefore, we took the pre- 
caution to send a telegram in advance, requesting information 
upon that subject. The answer was encouraging. 

We were informed that the temperature was rising and 
the snow was only two inches deep and rapidly melting and 
would probably disappear by the time we would arrive, if we 
started at once. After a short consultation, we concluded to 
go, "weather or no." Just before taking the cars, one of our 
friends suggested that we engage our coffins in advance, so 
that they would be ready for our frozen bodies on our return 
to Chester. When we arrived at Norfolk we were surprised 
to find snow six inches deep and the harbor frozen up. Im- 
mense fields of ice stretched from Compostelea Bridge down to 
the outer harbor, broken only by the track of the ferry boats. 



Value of the Telephone. 389 

Several steamers were ice-bounJ in the docks. Mahone's 
lyake and Put-in Creek were full of gay and happy skaters, 
and no such winter weather had been known for thirty years. 
Our boat was fifteen minutes late, by which our connection 
with the railroad from Portsmouth would fail unless we could 
hold the train till we could cross the river. We telephoned 
from Norfolk that five hunters for Clarkesville would arrive 
in fifteen minutes after the scheduled starting time and re- 
quested the conductor to hold the train for us. The answer 
came : 

"All right." ■ ^ 

So by this happy thought we saved a day, as the train 
only went once in twenty-four hours. This little incident is 
only important as illustrating the value of a minute in an 
emergency. By one minute's use of the telephone we saved a 
whole day for five persons. 

We arrived at Bullock about seven P. M. The ground 
was covered with five inches of snow and the thermometer reg- 
istered five degrees above zero. There had been another 
snow fall since the Sunday of our answer to our telegram. To 
add to our own discomfort and disappointment, we had to ride 
in an open wagon five miles, over the worst road upon which 
I have ever traveled. I never suffered more from the biting 
wind. When we arrived at the house which was to be our 
headquarters for the next week, we were nearly frozen to 
death. We were more than an hour on the road, with not as 
much as a blanket or even straw to protect our shivering knees 
or ice-cold feet. But pleasure is always bought with pain. 
Our dearest joys are appreciated because they are dear. If 
there were no hell I am afraid we would not enjoy Heaven. 
Our kind and obliging host, had done all he could to make us 
comfortable. He was not accustomed to such weather and did 
not anticipate it. His excellent and accomplished wife re- 
ceived us with a gracious smile and welcomed us to two large 
chambers, each furnished with a rousing pine wood fire and a 
good, warm, and well-made bed. After a good, hot supper, 
enjoyed with the best of sauce, a keen appetite, we sought re- 
pose and found that peaceful rest only known to children and 
tired men. 

No babe ever slumbered on its mother's bosom with more 
delight than I reposed upon my downy couch that cold and 
cheerless night. When I awoke the next morning the fire had 
burned itself out and I was surprised to find my moustache 
stiff with my frozen breath. After ten A.M. the mercury had 
risen to twenty-eight degrees, whereupon we got our dogs and 
guns and started for our first day's hunt. We saw thousands 
of rabbit tracks and many foot prints of quail. On the side of 



390 Extreme Cold Weather. 



the hill covered with oak trees, we saw where turkeys had 
been scratching for acorns. We also struck the trail of two 
deer. I do not exaggerate when I say, if the conditions had 
been favorable, we could have killed a hundred birds and 
several turkeys. As it was, the birds were very wild and 
when raised flew fast and far. The snow seemed to destroy 
their scent, as the dogs could only find single birds with great 
difficulty. We, however, came home with well-filled bags and 
with high hopes for the morrow. About ten P. M., Mr. Car- 
rington brought in his thermometer to ascertain the tempera- 
ture. We all closely examined it and pronounced it worthless, 
as no mercury could be seen. After a few minutes, however, 
the warm atmosphere of the room had caused the quicksilver 
to appear just above the bulb. We found it only registered 
the temperature from zero upwards. It had fallen to zero, but 
we could not tell how much below. The streams were frozen 
over. Ice had formed from four to seven inches thick and the 
wind blew a howling blizzard. It was the coldest weather 
North Carolina had seen for many years. 

One of Mr. Carrington's neighbors, Mr. Fawcett, whose 
home was about a half mile away, had visited us the night 
before and invited us to participate in a deer hunt. Deer were 
comparatively unknown in this vicinity before the war. The. 
immense quantity of abandoned land, the result of the unhappy 
struggle, now affords food and shelter for them, and one can 
be "jumped" almost any reasonably fair day. Mr. Fawcett 
has a fine pack of hounds and trained horses, who will stand 
fire from the saddle. It was arranged that we should be at his 
house b}' ten sharp the next morning. When we awoke we 
were told by the colored boy who came to make up our fire 
that it had snowed again during the night, thus adding three 
or four inches to what was already on the ground. The 
thermometer at nine A. M., stood five degrees above zero. 

Nothing daunted, we seized our guns, pulled on our high 
legged gum boots and sallied out for our deer hunt. It came 
near being a dear hunt to me, for I was never so cold before. 
When we arrived at Mr. Fawcett's home at the exact minute 
fixed upon, I detected a smile of surprise. After another cor- 
dial smile or two, he said, " Gentlemen, I suppose you have 
come for that deer hunt. We North Carolinians would not 
dream of a hunt on such a day as this, but if 3''ou think you 
can stand it, I think I can 'jump' a deer for you." He or- 
dered his favorite horse and his sure-footed and trusty mule. 
With genuine politeness he offered me his horse, which I, of 
course, declined. 

I had never sat on a mule before and I wanted to see how 
it felt. The rest of the party preferred to walk to keep up 



Suffering with the Cold. 391 

animal heat b}^ pr )inoting a more active circulation. While 
crossing a creek, with banks five or six feet high, my mule's 
hind xeet slipped on the ice ; his fore feet were on the top of 
the bank. He struggled manfully for a few seconds and then 
fell back on the ice. lyucicily for me, I slipped oat of the 
saddle just in time to escape what might have been a serious 
fall. While struggling with his fore feet on the bank and his 
hind feet slipping on the ice, he reminded me of a caricature 
in one of our illustrated magazines, called "Poor-Iyizza," 

lyizza was a mule who would not stand hitched. To break 
her of her bad habit, her owner, an old negro, hitched her in 
front of a blind on the bank of a mill pond. She, as usual, 
broke her tether, but went backvV-irds into the mill pond, the 
banks of which were so high that she could not get out. The 
skill of the artist was displayed in the woe-begone counten- 
ance of the mule as her old owner came to help her out. After 
that he never broke the tether. 

We rode several miles over waste fields, up slashes and 
through woods, but failed to raise a deer. We chen gave up 
our deer hunt, and sent for the hounds for an old-fashioned rab- 
bit hunt. They were soon running in front of the dogs in every 
direction. We shot several in a fi>v minutes. If the weather 
had been favorable, I have no doubt we could have killed two 
hundred of them in a day. 

I never suffered so much from the cold. I thought my 
feet were frozen. I abandoned my mule and endeavored to 
warm myself by violent exercise. My only hope was that 
some of the party would suggest that it was too cold to hunt. 
I determined that if I died on the field I would not be the first 
to cry for quarter. Kind Providence came to my relief by 
sending a blast of wind and snow with terrific force in the face 
of the youngest of my shivering companions. 

" Holy Moses !" he said : "if you fellows want to freeze 
to death, stay here. I'm going home." 

Home he went, with me in his rear. The rest of the 
party weathered it out, and came home loaded with game, in- 
cluding two fine wild turkeys. 

The next day, two of us stayed at home to celebrate the 
birthdaj^ of the junior member of our part3^ Of course, he 
stayed with us and expressed himself as satisfied with the cele- 
bration. He was foolish enough to lay a wager that the ones 
who went to the fields would not bring home another turkey. 
That night they came home with a fine lot of game, including 
two more turkeys. A dispute arose about the terms of the 
wager. One side contended that the whole day was included 
in the time within which the turkey should be shot. The 
other side insisted that the time was limited to the forenoon. 



392 A Moot Court, 

To settle this momentous question, which bid fair to dis- 
rupt the harmony of our little company, the parties agreed 
that a moot Court should be organized and the testimony 
should be submitted, and that the verdict should be final. 
After a good, cheerful supper, we organized the Court. To 
fill the box, it was necessary to issue a special venire. Mr. 
Carrington was the sheriff. The first man he summoned was 
himself, then his wife, daughters and son. The panel was at 
last filled by his servants. The case will be reported as Gart- 
side vs. Flower. The defendant chose as his counsel a fair, 
;bright j'-oung lady, Miss Price, the private teacher of Mr 
Carrington's daughters, and a very interesting and accom- 
plished young lady. The plaintiff pleaded his own cause. 
The witnesses were called, sworn on a pack of cards, examined 
and cross-examined. The defendant would have won his case 
if it had not been for his innocence and carelessness. 

After the testimony had closed, his fair counsel moved 
the Court for leave to abandon the case. The reasons assigned 
were two. First, that she had received no fee ; second, 
that, as counsel, she had the right to a private consultation of 
at least one hour with her client, and that he had not as much 
as invited her to sit by his side during the trial. The Court 
held the reasons sufficient and granted the motion. After the 
testimony was all in and the case duly argaed to the jury, the" 
Judge delivered his charge, strongly in favor of the defendant, 
but the jury, because of the shabby manner in which the de- 
fendant had treated his counsel, concluded that no case could 
be good if a suitor's own counsel abandoned it, and so they 
found a verdict for the plaintiff, with costs. 

The trial consumed the whole evening, and was really 
well conducted and fairly sparkled with nice points, wit and 
humor. 

There are many more interesting incidents I would like 
to relate, but my letter is already too long ; suffice it to say 
that in four short winter days we secured one hundred and 
sixty-seven quail, twenty rabbits, five wild turkeys, one black 
duck and one opossum. We saw three deer, but did not get 
near enough for a shot. If the weather had been favorable we 
would have brought home at least five hundred quail. Hunt- 
ers must not expect success without labor. If good luck comes, 
all right : if bad luck overtakes you, make your own fun and 
enjoy yourselves all you can. One of the great charms of 
hunting is its absolute freedom. You are not bound to be 
home at ten o'clock. You are subject to no boss.. You don't 
even have to go to bed till you get sleepy. 

I must not neglect to name General Washington, the old 
negro servant, who chopped and carried up our firewood. For 



Old "Wash's" Toasts. 393 

short, they call him "Wash." He is a very dignified old 
negro, with a fine crop of grizzly wool on his head. He 
reminded me very much of Mrs. Stowe's Uncle Tom. Every 
cold morning, with his master's permission, we gave him a stiff 
toddy, but we always required him to give us a toast before 
taking his drink. 

Here are some specimens : 

From my lips down to ray toes, 
Many a quart and gallon goes ; 
I takedis drink for I don't know, 
If I shall ever get some mo. (More). 

My old Massa promised me, 

When lie died he'd set me free ; 

Now old Massa's dead and gone. 

And left me here a hoeing co'n. (Corn). 

Old Massa died de 17th of April, 

They put him in a box made of sugar maple ; 

They dug a big hole down upon the level. 

I really do believe old Massa's gwine to the devil. 

The above are only selections from old Wash's manj^ toasts. 
When he told his old wife what "good drinks de gentlemen up 
Starr gib him" she upbraided him for not giving her some. 
"My deah, ' ' said he, ' ' I tried to hold some in my mouf fo' you, 
but I had to talk to de Judge, and you know its not perlite to 
talk to white folks wid yer mouf full." 



BIOQRAPHICAL SKETCM 

OF THE 

CLAYTON FAM:ILY, 

WITH SOME 

PERSONAL RECOLLECTIONS OF BETHEL 
AND BRANDYWINE HUNDRED. 



396 A Biographical Sketch. 



PART I. 

PATERNAI, LINE. 

L/OST lyiNKS — Clayton Hall, Yorkshire — Family Arms — 
William of Chichester, the Progenitor of the Penn- 
sylvania Branch — Attorney General, John Clayton, 
THE Founder of the Virginia Family — Joshua, of 
England, the First of the Delaware Line — Quakers 
AND Methodists — How my Grandmother Punished 
Her Husband for Becoming a Methodist — Family Con- 
nections — Anecdote of John Faulk— Saint Walter 
Martin — The Story of Clem Hathaway— Incident in 
THE Life of John Faulk, Jr — Origin of the Name 
Claymont — A Bad Delaware Law — Feasts at Funer- 
als — Aunt Lavina — Old Time Carpenters — Why I 
Was Named Thomas Jefferson — Origin of the Name, 
Whig — Why the Name Tyler was Striken from my • 
Brother John's Name — Clayton Cider. 

The family is the foundation of the State. Great Empires 
have sprung from humble lliance between tribes. It is but 
reasonable that we should desire to know something of our 
ancestors and delight in recounting whatever has contributed 
to their fame. 

Notwithstanding the important interests connected with 
genealogy, it is surprising how soon connecting links are 
broken and all traces of former alliances lost. It is, therefore, 
the duty, and should be the pleasure, of individual members 
of a family to preserve for posterity the information they pos- 
sess, especially the knowledge that depends upon tradition and 
which may die when they die. 

The authorities from which I have constructed this sketch 
are "Dugdale's Visitations of Yorkshire" — published in 1566 ; 
" The Historical Magazine of Virginia ;" "Letters of Attor- 
ney General John Clayton and his son John, the Botanist;" 
Family letters ; old deeds, wills, court records, inscriptions 
upon tombs and conversations with old members of the family. 

In the Recorder's office, at West Chester, I have found 
deeds from 1684 to 1787, to and from old members of the 
family. They are by and to William of Chichester, Thomas, 
Samuel, John, Caleb, Abel, David, James and Joshua Clayton. 



A Biographical Skelch. 397 

A deed dated Octob3r 13, 1699, from William of Chi- 
che";ter, is for one-half of the street and market place, in the 
"Town of Chichester," (Marcus Hook). The other half was 
granted by James Brown, who was the ancestor of the Browns 
of Chichester, of whom the late Jeremiah Brown was one. 
Fredrick Brown, the druggist of Philadelphia, is a descendant 
of James Brown and Hannah Clayton, the daughter of my 
grand-uncle, Armitt. The late Henry Armitt Brown, Esq., 
a distinguished orator and member of the Philadelphia bar, 
was a descendant from this marriage. 

The deed last referred to, was dated the same year that 
William Penn made his second visit to Pennsylvania accom- 
panied by Joshua Clayton, a cousin of William the grantor, 
named in the above cited deed. Joshua was the ancestor of 
John M. Clayton, of Delaware. They were all Quakers and 
friends of William Penn. 

I have not been able to trace the family in England fur- 
ther back than 1560, when Thomas Clayton was the owner of 
"Clayton Hall," in Yorkshire. 

The Claytons, according to family tradition, came origin- 
ally from Sussex, England, where there is a small town of 
that name. In the olden time, surnames did not indicate 
relationship but location All the inhabitants of Claytown, 
(Clayton), took that as their surname. As York was then 
the political center of the Kingdom, it was quite natural that 
the bright young man of the sleepy old town should migrate 
to the fashionable metropolis of England. 

The first son of Thomas, of " Clayton Hall," died a 
minor. His second son was William of Okenshaw. He was 
a barrister of the Inner Temple. He died in 1627. The estate 
known as "Clayton Hall," descended to Thomas Clayton (2) 
who was in possession as heir in 1666. He had a son William, 
who came to this countr}^ in 167 1, and is the ancestor of our 
family, and will be hereafter called William of Chichester, to 
distinguish him from the many other William Claytons that 
succeeded him. Thomas (2) had also a son, John, who was a 
barrister of the Inner Temple. He died April 6, 1666. 

William of Okenshaw, the grandfather of William of 
Chichester, had a son, Jasper, who was knighted by his sov- 
ereign for some service which is not stated in the record. He 
was afterwards called Sir Jasper Clayton. 

The family coat of arms, as recorded in the Herald's 
office, is described as follows : " Arms : Argent, a cross eil- 
grailed sable, between four torteaux." The legend is : "Pro- 
bitatem quam divitias." Meaning "Honor rather than 
wealth." The free translation of this legend would mean 
" Poor but Pi-oud." The people of this country are not, as a 



39^ A Biographical Sketch. 

rule, familiar with the language of Heraldry. I will therefore 
presume to translate the record of our family arms. The word 
'"'Arms'' in heraldry and Norman French means the ensign 
of a family consisting of figures and colors, engraved or painted 
upon a shield or banner, and which descends from father to 
son forever. The word " Argent'' means that the surface of 
the shield shall be silver-white, emblematic of innocence, 
purity and gentleness. The "-Cross" is emblematic of our 
christian faith. The word "engrailed" means that the edge 
of the cross shall be indented by small conical curves. The 
word ''Sable", means that the cross. shaM. be produced upon 
the white surface, by black lines drawn vertically and horizon- 
tally, and crossing each other. The word " Torteatox" is 
the plural of torteau, which means a small circular spot, ol a 
red color (in our arms there are fotir red cifcillar spots. Th€ 
" Legend" is the motto selected by the knight, expressive of 
soms peculiar trait in himself or his family. 

Oar coat of arms, as it appears upon the fly-leaf of this 
book, is copied from an engraving in the Supplement to the 
Virginia Historical Magazine. With the above explanation 
it can be uaders.tood without difficulty. 

Sir Jasper Clayton's son, Sir John of , lyondon, was also 
knighted July 22, 1664. He was also a barrister, admitted in 
1650. His brother George was a haberdasher of lyondon, and ' 
would, perhaps, like many other honest tradesmen of the 
family — carpenters, cordwainers and tailors — -never have been 
again noticed in the family records, if it had not been for his 
marriage with Miss Hester Palmer, daughter of Sir Thqmas 
Palmer. 

Sir John had a son John, also a barrister, admitted June 
6, 1682. He came to Virginia in 1705. (Nearly all commu- 
nication with England, at that time, was to and from the port 
of Jamestown, Va.). 

This John was Attorney General of Virginia until 1737, 
when he died. He was also Judge of the Court of Admiralty 
and a member of the house of Burgesses. He left a large 
volume of letters containing much valuable information con- 
cerning the family. He frequently refers to his brother. Gen- 
eral Jasper Clayton, who was Governor of Gibraltar and a 
Ivieutenant General in the English army. He was killed in 
the battle of Dettingen, in Bavaria, in 1743. The victory of 
the English was celebrated by Handel's famous Te Deum. 
B}/ his will he left his estate, which was not very large as 
measured by the estates of to-day, to be about equally divided 
among all his children except his daughter, Juliana. The 
clause referring to her reads as follows : "I give and bequeath 
to my verj^ undutiful and lost daughter, Juliana, the reputed 



A Biographical Sketch. 399 

wife of Peter Hoo )er, who was my servant, one shilling and 
no more." This would seem to sustain my translation of the 
legend on the family arms — " Poor but proud." 

I do not assume to make an absolutely correct record of 
the family connections, nor do I profess that all my deductions 
are beyond the possibility of mistake. I, however, believe 
the facts stated to be substantially correct. My chief difficulty 
has been to harmonize the great confusion in family names. 
There can be but little doubt that the Claytons of Virginia, 
Georgia, Delaware and Pennsylvania are descendants of the 
Claytons of " Clayton Hall" in Yorkshire, England. There 
is a strong family resemblance in the individual members of 
the several branches. This is corroborated by an occurrence 
related by one of my brothers in Arkansas. He was on a 
Mississippi steamboat ' after the war and was spoken to in a 
familiar way by a stranger who addressed him as " Mr. Clay- 
ton." The mistake was soon discovered. The stranger was 
from Georgia and had mistaken my brother for one of his 
neighbors, bearing the same name, and with whom he was well 
acquainted. He affirmed that the two looked so much alike 
that their wives would not be able to tell one from the other. 
The Claytons of Georgia, I am informed, are the descendants 
of Rev. John Clayton, an Episcopal clergyman, a contempo 
rary and friend of John Wesley, the founder of Methodism. 
Joshua Clayton who, as before stated, came to this country in 
1699, with Penn on his second visit, was the ancestor of the 
late John M. Clayton, and was a cousin of William Clayton 
of Chichester, from whom our family are descended. Joshua 
had a son, James, who had two sons, Joshua, Jr., and James, 
Jr Joshua, Jr. was a surgeon in the Revolutionary army and 
a graduate of the University of Pennsylvania. He was after- 
wards Governor of Delaware and U. S. Senator from that 
State. He died in 1798. His son, Thomas Clayton, was 
Chief Justice of Delaware and also U. S. Senator from that 
State. 

Johm M. Clayton's father was James, a brother of Joshua, 
Jr. He and the Chief Justice, Thomas Clayton, were cousins. 

William Clayton of Chichester, the ancestor of our family 
before coming to America in 167 1, procured a patent from the 
British government for five hundred acres of land in Upper 
Chichester. This was before Penn became proprietor of the 
Province, and before the Duke of York's charter. He also 
owned a tract of land at Maylandville, near Philadelphia. 
A part of the city, known as " Forty -ninth " Street, is built 
on land formerly of William Clayton. It is said that his wife 
was named Prudence. I, however, have not been able to 
verify this tradition. All his deeds are signed simply, 



400 A Biographical Sketch. 

" William Clayton." His wife must have died shortly after 
his arrival or, perhaps, before^ He had a daughter named 
Prudence, who married Henry Reynolds. The wedding was 
celebrated at Burlington, N. J., Nov. lo, 1678, Mr. Reynolds 
afterwards purchased land and came to Chichester, where he 
died August 7, 1724. His widow, Prudence, died in 1728. 
She had ten children. Their eldest son, Francis, married 
Miss Aston, of Salem. Francis had a son named Henry, who 
married the daughter of John Davis, of Radnor. Their 
daughter, Elizabeth, married George Martin, of Chichester, 
whose daughter, Sarah, was the mother of Hon. John M. 
Broomall. Washington Townsend, John M. Sharpless, John 
Sharpless and Dr. George Martin, of West Chester, are de- 
scendants of Henry Reynolds and Prudence Clayton. William 
Clayton, the father of the said Prudence, was one of the nine 
justices who sat at Upland (Chester) in 1681. Henry Rey 
nolds, his son-in-law, was one of the jurors of said court. 
William was also a member of Penn's Council. 

William ot Chichester had a son, William (2) Clayton, 
born about 1675. His wife was named Elizabeth. He died 
about February, 1727. He left five sons, named William (3) 
Edward Richard, Abel and Ambrose. 

William (3) married Mary, the daughter of Walter Mar- 
tin. He died about January 9, 1758. The land upon which 
St. Martin's Church, at Marcus Hook stands, was donated by 
Walter Martin, by deed dated 1699. Book A, p. 236. In 
consideration of the gift, the church canonized him and named 
the church Sahit Martin. As an evidence of his saintly char- 
acter he made one of the conditions of his grant, that the 
mortal remains of no Quaker should ever be permitted to re- 
pose in the burial ground which was a part of his grant, and 
that there might be no mistake he endorsed his deed with an 
explanation of what he meant by the word "Quaker." He 
said he did not mean to exclude Kethites or Christian Quakers, 
but only Quakers who did not acknowledge the divinity of 
Christ, be baptized by water, take the Lord's Supper and 
believe in the resurrection of the dead. Also such Quakers 
as refused to take an oath upon the Bible should be excluded. 

Richard Clayton, son of William (2) had a son, Curtis, 
and a son Richard — my great-grandfather Richard married 
Abigail, daughter of Robert and Mary Powell, of Concord. 
Abigail's mother was Mary, daughter of Joseph Rhoads, of 
Marple. Richard had three sons, Powell my grandfather, 
Curtis and Armitt. Powell has since been a favorite name in 
the family. Curtis was the ancestor of the Claytons of Phila- 
delphia and Colorado. During the Revolutionary war, my 
great-grandfather Richard, was the keeper and proprietor of 



A Biographical Sketch, 401 



the hotel at the head of the pier at, Port Finn, Delaware. He 
had a hostler named Clem. Hathaway. When the British 
Fleet sailed up the river, a few enthusiastic patriots secured 
an old cannon which they planted upoa the pier and opened 
fire upon the passing fleet, which immediately poured abroad- 
side into the town. 

Clem, was half asleep, with his head resting between his 
hands, and his elbows on his kness, sitting in front of the old- 
time fireplace, whsn hs was suddenly aroused by a cannon 
ball which pierced the wall about six inches above his head, 
imbedding itself in the brick chimney and covering him with 
red dust. Without a word he arose and walking deliberately 
out to the end of the pier, he turned his back to the enemy, 
bending himself forward so as to present a mark for the British 
sharp-shooters on the ships. He remained in this defiant 
position for about ten minutes. The musket balls fell like 
hail around him but did not as much as scratch his skin. He 
then straightened himself up, adjusted his clothing and delib- 
erately returned to the hotel. It is needless to add that from 
that time till his death, a few months after, he was the hero 
of the town. His daring defiance of t tie British Fleet gave 
him a free "admittance to the bar," and too much indulgence 
in his new privilege soon ended his days. 

I had the above anecdote directly from my father's lips, 
who assured me that his father gave it to him just as I have 
related it, but in rather plainer language. 

iVfter my great -graadiather left Port Penn, he lived for 
several years at Marcus Hook, where my grandfather was 
born. His dwelling was situated on the southerly side of the 
main street, nearly opposite the Old Market House. In 1786. 
Richard purchased his Bethel farm from John Ford. He 
spent the balance of his life upon this farm. At his death he 
gave it to his son Powell, my grandfather. 

He gave his Port Penn property to his son Curtis, who 
afterwards moved to Philadelphia. He was the direct an- 
cestor of the Philadelphia and Colorado Claytons. His son 
Curtis has but recently died in Philadelphia, aged ninty-two. 
Much of the information contained in this sketch I obtained 
from him a few years ago. 

My great-grandfather Richard had two daughters. Han- 
nah and Elizabeth. Hannah married Stephen Faulk by 
whom she had two sons — William and Clayton — and a daugh- 
ter named Mary. Stephen Faulk, a merchant of Philadelphia, 
is a descendant from this marriage. Mary married Philip 
Jones, of Wilmington, Delaware. His son, Philip, was a 
dentist in Wilmington, in 1848. Stephen Faulk, the husband 



402 A Biographical Sketch. 

of Hannah (Clayton) Faulk, died before his wife. She after- 
wards married a man named McKnight, whom she also sur- 
vived. She died when I was about eleven yearsold, Nov. 12, 
1837. My grandfather died about six months before. These 
were the first funerals of which I have any recollection. They 
were my first object lessons upon the certainty of death. I 
shall never forget the terrible impression made upon my mind 
as I looked down upon the cold dead face of " Aunt Hannah.'' 

Elizabeth, his sister, married John Tweed, of Delaware. 
She had a son named Curtis, whom I remember very well. 
He was killed in an accident upon the Philadelphia, Wilming- 
ton and Baltimore Railroad, about 1840. 

Elizabeth had also a son named John, a wheelwright, of 
Wilmington, Delaware. He was lame from a wound, by the 
broad axe, in his knee. She had three other sons whom I 
did not know, named James, Clayton and Columbus. Colum- 
bus died in Philade'phia Junj 27, 1892. 

Elizabeth had three daughters, named Abigail, Mary and 
Elizabeth. Abigail married Mr. Moore, a gentleman of Illi- 
nois, where she died highly respected. Elizabeth was a fine 
looking woman and a frequent visitor at my father's house 
before her marriage, in 1845. She married Mr. Harrison 
Justison, of Hancock county, Illinois, where she died Novem- 
ber 16, 1891. 

Powell Clayton had three wives. His first wife, my 
grandmother, was Sarah, a daughter of John Faulk, of Dela- 
ware. They were married May 27, 1790. I have heard my 
father say that his mother was reputed to be a woman of rare 
beauty. We must pardon him for that expression as most 
men think their mothers the most beautiful of women. She 
died when he was very young. It was said that, when she 
stood erect, her loosened hair swept the floor at her feet. She 
also had the reputation of being somewhat proud of her personal 
charms and social standing. She despised the Methodists but 
tolerated the Quakers. When my grandfather became a 
Methodist, she thought the family disgraced. She shut her- 
self up in her room over a week and wept from shame. All 
the efforts of her disconsolate husband to soothe her sorrow 
were vain. She held the fort for about eight days. Her only 
terms of surrender was his immediate withdrawal from the 
church. At the end of eight daj^s she partially relented and re- 
ceived her husband with her wonted grace. Before her death, 
however, which soon followed on November i, 1795, she re- 
quested that she might be buried in the Quaker Burying 
Ground, in Upper Chichester, where her body now reposes 
without a stone to mark her resting place — (In those days the 
Quakers were opposed to tomb-stones). 



A BlOGKAl'HICAL SkETCH. 4O3 

Methodism, in those days, was much more primitive than 
it now is. The early Methodists did not condemn shouting 
aloud their praises to the Lord. They sung and prayed with 
great spiritual fervor and did not believe in church music or 
educated preachers. They regarded religion as a Faith rather 
than as a Philosophy . 

They adopted the plain dress, and many of them used 
the ''Thee and the Thou of the Quakers." They however 
substituted the word Broihe} for the appellation of Friend used 
•by the Quakers. There was no substantial difference between 
the faith of the Qaakers and Methodists until after the schism 
in the Society of Friends caused by the preaching of Elias 
Hicks. The Quakers of the olden time were more aristocratic 
than the Methodists and more clannish and secluded. This 
may account for my grandmother's prejudice against the Meth- 
odists. Her father, John Faulk, was fine looking and rather 
proud in his bearing. He wore buckskin breeches, silk stock- 
ings and silver knee and shoe buckles. The following anec- 
dote of my great-grandfather, Faulk, I received from the 
lips of my father : — He was a skillful stonemason. When the 
jail at New Castle was erected he did the stone work which 
was considered, at that time, as a very fine specimen of ma- 
sonic skill. After the jail had been finished a short time, a 
prisoner sawed off the iron bars of his cell window and es- 
caped. The two ends of the cell bars had been set in sockets 
drilled in the sill and head stone. The question was, how to 
restore the bars without tearing out the sill and head stone 
and rebuilding the window and disfiguring the wall ? The 
commissioners finally concluded that, at least, the head stone 
would have to be taken out in order to get the ends of the new 
iron bars into the sockets. Proposals were invited for the 
work. The bids ranged from seventy-five to one hundred 
dollars. On the day the contract was to be awarded, John 
Faulk appeared before the commissioners and proposed to do 
the work for nothing, without tearing down any of the w^all, 
provided the commissioners would pay the blacksmith's bill, 
which should not exceed ten dollars, and, that the work should 
be finished to the satisfaction of the commissioners in half a 
day. They at first thought the old man had lost his wits, but 
as they could detect no signs of insanity, and as he was a man 
of responsibility, they told him to go ahead. 

He went to a blacksmith and ,in a few minutes had new 
bars cut. He then brought the blacksmith with his portable 
forge to the jail, and after heating the bars red hot he bent 
them in the form of a bow until the two ends could enter the 
sockets in the stone, then with a few strokes of the hammer 
the bars were straightened and chilled by dashing some water 



'404 A Biographical Sketch. 

upon them. The whole job was completed to the perfect sat- 
isfaction of the commissioners, but to the surprise and disgust 
of the contractors, in less than five hours. 

The Fauiks, of Delaware, are descendants of my great- 
grandfather Faulk. I knew his grandson, John, of Brandy- 
wine Hundred, Delaware, very well. In his younger days he 
was one of the handsomest men I ever saw. He was an athlete, 
worthy of comparison with the best specimens of manhood in 
ancient Greece or Rome, as represented by their statues in 
marble. He could fell an ox with a blow from his fist. I 
have seen him lift seven hundred pounds dead weight. When 
he was at his best, I doubt if there was a man living could 
stand before him. About 1840, the Methodists held a camp 
meeting, at Penney 's Wood, near a hotel called the Practical 
Farmer. A crowd of rowdies from Philadelphia created some 
disturbance, whereupon, John Faulk, who was a member of 
the church, ejected ihem frcm the ground. Nine of them, 
some of whom were krown prize fighters, made an attack 
upon him the same afternoon in the bar-room of the hotel. In 
less than forty minutes, five of them were lying senseless upon 
the floor ; of the other four, one had his arm broken, one had 
two ribs fractured and the other two had their noses smeared 
over their faces. It was necessary to call in a doctor before- 
the wounded bullies could be conveyed to the railroad station. 
It is needless to say there were no more disturbances during 
the continuance of the meeting. Soine of the fervent old 
Methodists actually believed that God had interfered and gave 
to John Faulk the strength of Sampson. I have seen John 
Faulk, with one hand, swing a twenty-five-pound sledge ham- 
mer three times around his head and then hurl it from ten to 
fifteen yards further than any other person could throw it. 
Withal he was exceedingly kind and good natured. At the 
age of thirty, before he had reached his prime, he was attacked 
with rheumatism from which he suffered all the balance of 
his life. It completely ruined the symmetry of his form. 
Some of hia joints were destroyed, his right hip was displaced, 
his back was bowed and for twenty years he could scarcely 
stand erect. Why nature made him so strong and then de- 
stroyed her work, is hard to understand. If he had been a 
dissipated man, moralists would have attributed his afilictions 
to that cause, but he was sober, industrious, abstemious and 
a christian man all his life. 

We will now return to my grandfather, Powell Clayton. 
He had two sons by his first wife Sarah (Faulk). Richard 
the elder was born March 6, 1791. John, my father, was 
born December 6, 1792. Richard married Miss Grubb, of 
Delaware. Upon his marriage, my grandfather purchased for 



A Biographical Sketch. 405 

him a beatitifnlly situated farm near the present railroad station 
at Claymont. The mansion stood upon the hill nearly oppo- 
site the late residence of Rev. Mr. Clemson. He named his 
residence "Claymont" — an abbreviation of Clayton's Mount. 
This name has remained as the name of the railroad station 
but all dominion of the old proprietor of the mansion has long 
since departed. I doubt whether the oldest residents now 
know the origin of the name. The mansion was burned many 
years ago and the property was purchased by Thomas Clyde, 
the founder of the Clyde line of steamers. 

My uncle Richard died of yellow fever when it was epi- 
demic in Philadelphia, September 14, 1820. He left an infant 
son only a few days old. It died eight days after its father. 
His widow afterwards married a man named Buck. She died 
childless and intestate. 

By the laws of Delaware, Richard's infant son inherited 
his father's estate, subject to the dower of its mother. When 
it died, within a week of its father's death, its mother, as its 
next of kin inherited the estate. When she died her brothers 
and sisters took it as her heirs at law. Thus a fine estate 
bought by my grandfather, by the accident of the babe's death 
a week after its father's decease, vested in entire strangers to 
his blood. By the laws of England this could not be. There 
the heir, to inherit the land must be of the blood of the first 
purchaser. Such ought to be the law of America, and is the 
law of Pennsylvania. 

Powell Clayton died, as before stated, in 1837, in the 
house now occupied by Mr. Hinkson, on the road running 
from Naaman's creek to Booth's Corner, in the township of 
Bethel. From all that I can learn of him, he was a good, 
rather than a great man. He was a consistent christian and a 
man of some influence in his church. I have heard my old 
and esteemed friend Samuel Hance, of Bethel, recently de- 
ceased at the advanced age of ninety-four years, say that my 
grandfather was the direct means of bringing him into the 
church, and was his class-leader. He told me once that he 
always loved me because my grandfather showed so much love 
for him. 

My grandfather was content to move upon the level plane 
upon which his contemporaries walked without jostling an}- 
of them. He never aspired to be a leader either in the church 
or State. He, therefore, led a comparatively happy life and 
died a peaceful death, loved and respected by all who knew 
him. 

The greater part of his life was spent upon his farm, the 
mansion house of which is now occupied by J. Wesley Hance, 
in Bethel. When his son Nelson married Miss Jemima Booth, 



4o6 A BiOGKAPHicAL Sketch. 

a daughter of James Booth, late of Bethel, he moved to the 
house a little further up the road and now occupied, as before 
stated, by Mr. Hmkson. He died very suddenly of heart dis- 
ease while taking his wonted morning walk around his farm. 

In those days, funerals were great events. The whole 
community turned out en masse to help bury a friend who 
could afford a funeral feast. It was the fashion then to an- 
nounce at the grave, "That the relatives and friends oi \h^ 
deceased are earnestly invited to return to his late home for 
dinner." All the old. women in the neighborhood were im- 
provised as cooks and all the laboring men were employed as 
assistants. The little pigs, chickens and turkeys seemed to 
know that their time had come and, oy instinct, calmly sur- 
rendered to the inevitable with remarkable resignation. 

It was truh^ wonderful to see how many devoted friends a 
dead man had as measured by the guests at his funeral feast. 
The funeral procession reached from his house to the church, 
over a mile. The feast began about noon and did not end 
until after dark. I was then about eleven years old and thought 
a funeral a real jolly thing. My old aunt Hannah, grand- 
father's sister, died about six months after. Her funeral was 
very plain and slimly attended. She could not afford a 
funeral feast. As I have already remarked, her death made 
a deep and lasting impiession upon my mind. I looked upon 
the Grim Monster as the only Mortal enemy of man. Since 
then the visits of Death have been so frequent as to entitle 
him to be saluted as a " friend of the family." I have fol- 
lowed eleven funerals from my father's home to the graveyard 
at Bethel, ending with my mother's. 

My grandfather's second wife was Mary Mattson. They 
were wedded June i6, 1796. By her he had a son named 
Mattson, born May 7, 1797. He was a rover and was lost at 
sea about 18 19. 

My grandfather's second son by his wife Mary, was Nelson, 
born December 12, 1800. He lived all his life in Bethel where 
he died May 6, 1866. She left two surviving daughters, 
Levina and Mary. Mary married a man named Lamplieugh. 
lyCvina never married. She was a highly intelligent and very 
strong minded woman. A short time after her father's death, 
she made her home at my father's house where she died. 

I cannot pay too high a tribute of respect to the memory 
of Aunt Levina. She was a remarkable woman — a great 
reader and profound reasoner — she wrote some very good poetry 
and was well posted upon all the scientific questions of the 
day. I never knew a person with a better memory. She was 
very fond of my twin brothers, John and William. Before 
^ hey were five years old she taught them to read. When I 



A Biographical Sketch. 407 



commenced reading law, she followed me by reading every 
book that I had read. She used to examine me in Blackstone, 
Kent. Cruise on Real Estate and Stephen's Pleading. When 
I was admitted in 1850, my old aunt knew about as much law 
as I did. Withal, she was exceedingly modest. Outside of 
our own family, but few knew much of her many virtues. 

Powell Clayton's third wife was Sarah Elliot, a widow, 
whose maiden name was Sharpless. They were married March 
10, 1814. She survived her husband many years. By her he 
had but one son, named Curtis, born April i, 1816, who died 
in Bethel, leaving one son William Torbert Clayton, born 
September 21, 1838, and one daughter, Sarah Jane, born June 
20, 1840, both living. William T., I believe, now resides in 
Texas. 

John Clayton, my father — as before stated — was born De- 
cember 6, 1792, in Bethel, in the house now occupied by 
Wesley Hance. 

He served a regular apprenticeship as a carpenter, under 
a somewhat celebrated builder of Wilmington, named John 
Newlin. My father followed his business for several years 
with some success. He worked at his trade in the cities of 
Wilmington, Baltimore, Philadelphia and New York. About 
1846, he took me to New York to show me a house, I think 
on Bond street, that he had planned and built and of which he 
was very proud. His greatest pride was in the very elaborate 
wooden mantel, which was certainly a work of merit. It looked 
very much like the hard-wood mantels, now so fashionable 
and which are only a renascence of the style of the early part 
of this century. In those days the carpenter was also the 
architect. He not only drew all the plans, but he laid out 
and made all the ornamental work of the building. 

My father and mother were married on the first day of 
January, 1822. They had ten children of whom only three 
are now living. Six of my brothers and sisters died in early 
life. I, the oldest son, was born July 26, 1826. At that time 
my father was a staunch Jeffersonian Democrat. As an evi- 
dence of his politics, he named me Thomas Jefferson. In 1828, 
two years after my birth, when the Presidential contest was 
between Adams and Jackson, Henry Clay, who had been a 
Democrat, commenced the organization of the Whig party. 
My father followed his fortunes and in 1831, became a Whig. 

There are two theories of the derivation of the word W/ng-. 
We were taught that it was a word formed from the initials 
of a motto upon the banner of-the opposition party in England, 
during the early days of the Commonwealth : ' ' We Hope In 
God." Instead of the words in full, they painted in letters 
of gold upon their ensigns and banners the initials only— 



4o8 A Biographical Sketch. 

W. H. I. G., (Whig). Whether this is the true derivation of 
the grand old party name or not, it serves to illustrate the 
purity of its hopes, but the sequel proved that its hopes were 
vain. Others hold that the name was derived from the Scotch 
word " Whiggam " — -meaning Whey, a great drink of the 
covenanters. 

My father remained an earnest and energetic Whig until 
the party died ; he then became an enthusiastic Ropublican. 
Ha was a delegate to the Baltimore convention, in 1840, which 
nominated General Harrison for President. In that year my 
twin brothers, John and William, were born, (Oct. 13, 1840). 
They were named John Tyler and William Henry Harrison 
Clayton. 

After the death of President Harrison and Tyler's treach- 
erous abandonment of his party, my father, with his own 
hand erased the name "Tyler" from the family record, and 
had the boy baptized " John Middleton Clayton," after John 
M. Clayton, of Delaware, which name he bore to the time ot 
his tragic death in Arkansas, where he was cowardly assassi- 
nated for presuming to contest the election of Hon. R. C. 
Breckenridge, to a seat in Congress. He was shot, at night, 
through a window in Plummersville, while conversing with a 
friend, on the twenty-ninth of January, 1889. A biographic 
sketch of his life will be found in the " Secretary's Report of 
the Annual Reunion of the Survivors' Association, 124th 
Regiment, P. V." Published in 1889. 

My father never presumed to take much part in public 
affairs. After his marriage he devoted his life to farming, and 
by industry and ecomony, succeeded in maintaining and edu- 
cating his large family of children. He devoted his energies 
chiefly to the cultivation of fruit — ^apples, cherries and peaches. 
He had the reputation of making the best cider in the market. 
I have known him to make over one hundred hogsheads in a 
year. It very much resembled champagne wine and would 
keep for years without becoming sour. His secret for the 
preparation of his cider died with him. I can only remember 
a part of the process. In the first place, none but sound Gray 
House apples were used and the cider was always made in 
cold weather. It was invariably run into hogsheads, never in 
barrels. It was stored in the cellar and when at its highest 
alcoholic state, it was rectified with the best Russian isinglass 
and racked off into new hogsheads. This, I believe to be the 
whole secret. It reads as if it were a very easy thing to do, 
but the skill consisted in knowing just when the cider was in 
its highest alcoholic state. By years of practice my father 
could tell by placing his ear at the bunghole just when to 
treat it with the isinglass. He would sometimes fail but not 



A Biographical Sketch. 409 

often. He had an apple orchard of not over three acres from 
which I have heard him say he reaped a clear profit of over 
one thousand dollars a year. My father died October 16, 187 1, 
in the 79th year of his age. He was always found of young 
society and bore his years well. I have no doubt but that he 
would have lived to be a ver}' old man but for an accidental 
fall a few years before his death from the effects of which he 
died in the possession of all his faculties and in other respects 
hale and strong. 

A 



MATERNAL LINE. 

Grandfather Clark— An Old Tory — His Sword Turned 
Into a Corkscrew — A Mortal Insult— Captain Wil- 
liam Glover — Commodore Decatur— Sixty-Four Years 
a Methodist — Religion and Good Sense — Family Con- 
nections — My Brothers. 

My mother's father, Captain George Clark, was born in 
New Jersey, in 1755. He was twenty-one years old when the 
Colonies declared their independence. His father was an 
Englishman and a Tory. His son George, my grandfather, 
espoused the English side of the controversy and became an 
officer in the British colonial army. He received his pay from 
the Crown up to the day of his death, February 26, 181 2. He 
lived the greater part of his life in Brandywine Hundred, New 
Castle county, Delaware. 

I have the following anecdote from the late Stephen 
Cloud, Sr., of Bethel, who was my father's first cousin, his 
mother being a daughter of John Faulk, the elder : 

After the close of the Revolutionary war, the Tories and 
Patriots did not fraternize as freely as fellow countrymen should. 
In order to be prepared to measure swords with England again, 
if it should become necessary, the State government by law re- 
quired the militia to be regularly enrolled and on stated times, 
called "Training Days," to be drilled and inspected. It so 
happened upon one of those training days, several j^ears after 
the close of the war, that no one present was sufficiently edu- 
cated in the manual of arms to act as ' ' Training Master. ' ' 
Making a virtue of necessity, my grandfather was requested to 
lend a hand and help put the boys through the drill. He ac- 
cepted the honor and appeared upon the ground in his full 



4IO A Biographical Sketch. 

military dress, including, most unfortunately, a Red coat. He 
also carried his sword and a silver mounted musket, which had 
been presented to him by his old companions' in arms when the 
army was disbanded and which he highly prized. Scarcely 
had he formed the men in line, before there was a vigorous 
protest from the old patriots against being drilled by a Red 
Coat. The better class of the patriots endeavored to quell the 
impending storm but with no success. The soldiers made a 
break and, before the danger was realized, they knocked down 
the red-coated tory, tore off his sword, took his gun and rent 
his coat into shreds. To add insult to injury they thrust his 
sword in the hard ground up to the hilt, then broke his gun 
over a stump, and, with the barrel for a lever with one end in 
the guard of the sword, they turned it round and round till it 
came out of the ground in the form of a long corkscrew. 

I have heard my mother say that her father never got over 
the indignity thus put upon him, and always said that Amer- 
ica would come to no good until the Crown of England should 
wipe out the disgrace put upon a British soldier by these 
riotous and low-bred Republicans. 

The grave of my grandfather Clark maybe found near the 
south line of the Bethel graveyard and is marked by an old- 
fashioned marble tombstone. He married Miss Ann Glover ,, 
a daughter of William Glover, a sea captain whose ship 
sailed from Philadelphia to London. Among family relics 
in my possession is his fine marine spy-glass ; it is three 
feet long and is an excellent instrument. I have also a fine 
mahogany work table made in England, and six heavy table 
spoons in solid silver, hand-made, bearing the initials of my 
grandmother's maiden name, "A. G. " They were wedding 
presents from her father. She was born in 1773, and died 
March 3, 1830. Captain Glover was born in 1741. He died 
at his residence in Philadelphia, August 6, 1806. Our rela- 
tionship to Commodore Decatur came through this branch of 
the family, but although I have often heard my mother give 
the connecting link, I have not been able to now find it. The 
Glovers ^^ere strong patriots during the Revolutionary war 
The Toryism of grandfather Clark was a cause of constant ir- 
ritation and some bitterness in the families, until after my 
grandfather's death and until after the death of Decatur in 
1820, about two years before my mother's marriage when all 
further dissensions ceased. 

My mother was born October 3, 1803. At the early age 
of sixteen years she became an active Methodist and for sixty- 
four years she mantained her standing in the church as a con- 
sistent and energetic christian woman. While devoted to her 
own church, she respected all other forms of christian worship. 



A Biographical Sketch. 411 

She never permitted her attachment to her own form of wor- 
ship to lessen her respect for other creeds. During the Native 
American excitement, when St. Augustine's church was burned 
in Philadelphia, my motheir was earnest in her outspoken 
condemnation of that sacreligious outrage. She gathered her 
little family around her and tried to explain t^ us that the 
forms of worship were but paper walls dividing christian de- 
nominations, that we all worshipped ths same God and trusted 
in the same Savior, and that v\'e should be careful to say noth- 
ing that would offend others in their religious faith. Our 
laboring man, Patrick, was a devoted Catholic. He and my 
mother were the only two in the family that eat no meat on 
Friday or during Lent, a rule which she strictly observed to 
the day of her death. She used to tell us that in religion as 
well as in politics we were alllargeh' creatures of circumstances; 
that if our parents had been Catholics we most likely would be 
of the same faith. She said to me. during the heated cam- 
paign of 1840, when every man, woman and child in the 
county were tremendously excited over politics : "Son, have 
you ever thought that if your father had been a Loco Foco 
(Democrat) you would, perhaps, be one ?" I was so thoroughly 
imbued with the principles of the Whig party, that I could 
not then believe it possible under any consideration, that I 
should be anything but a Whig. 

During her long, patient and useful life, she had her full 
share of sorrow but no one heard her complain. She followed 
to the grave seven of her children ; two in infancy, and five 
when they were just entering manhood and womanhood. She 
was a woman of strong character and of an unbending will. 
She did not fear to drive the most headstrong horse, and, what 
was often remarked, the horse most always seemed to know 
that it was in the hands of its mistress. 

She met her approaching end of life with true christian 
fortitude — willing to live but not afraid to die. Death had 
no terrors for her. She met him as a friend and not an enemy. 
She died May 12th, 1883, in the eightieth year of her age 

Grandfather Clark had two sisters, named Margaret and 
Laurana. Margaret married a Mr. Wallace ; they had a son 
named Wesley, who was a Methodist preacher. Laurana mar- 
ried John Tettimary, of Philadelphia. I/aurana had a daughter 
named Sarah, who married Peter Williamson, of Philadelphia. 
Beside my grandmother (Ann Glover), Captain William Glover 
had a daughter named Brandling, she was my great aunt, and 
was married to Isaac Grubb, of Delaware. In this way I am 
related to the Grubbs of that State. My mother's brother, 
Wesley Clark, of Bethel, is still living; her sisters Letitia, Pris- 
cilla, Brandling, Charlotte and Laurana are dead. Letitia mar- 



412 A Biographical Sketch. 



ried Rev. John Talley, of Delaware. Priscilla married L^ewis 
Talley, of Delaware ; her daughter, I^etitia, married Humphrey 
Pyle, recently deceased, of Chester Heights, Delaware county. 
Her daughter Priscilla, married William McCracken, of Dela- 
ware county. Laurana married Rev. William Cooper, a very 
eloquent Methodist preacher. Brandling married John John- 
son, the son of Robert Johnson, late of Bethel, who was the 
second husband of my grandmother Clark, nee Glover. Char- 
lotte married Thomas Hance, a brother of Samuel Hance of 
Bethel, who recently died at the age of ninety-four. My uncle 
Wesley married Charlotte Pool, a sister of Wesley Pool, of 
Bethel. Of myself and living members of our family I ought 
not to be expected to say much. My brother, Powell, is well 
known both as a soldier and a citizen. By profession he was 
a civil engineer in Kansas. When the war of the rebellion 
broke out he entered the Union army as a Captain of the First 
Kansas Volunteer Infantry. He fought his way from Wilson's 
creek to Arkansas, and when hostilities ceased, he had ad- 
vanced from Captain to Brigadier General, commanding a di- 
vision. He stopped where the war left him, and made Arkansas 
his home. He now resides at Eureka Springs, in that State. 
His name is intimately connected with the political history of 
Arkansas since its reconstruction. He was at one time Gover- 
nor and afterwards U. S. Senator of that State. He married 
an estimable lady of his adopted State, and has now a large 
and interesting family. His eldest son, Powell, Jr., although 
barely in his majority, is now Second lyieutenant in the Fifth 
Cavalry of the regular U. S. Army. 

My brother William, also served as Second lyieutenant of 
Company H, 124th Regiment of Pennsylvania. He partici- 
pated in the battles of South Mountain, Antietam and Chan- 
cellorville. When the war ended he settled in Pine Bluff, Ar- 
kansas. By profession he was a lawyer. He was appointed 
Judge of the First Circuit of Arkansas, a court of the highest 
original jurisdiction in the State. After two years' service as 
Judge, he resigned for the more lucrative office of U. S. Dis- 
trict Attorney for the Western District of Arkansas. He was 
appointed to the office by President Grant, in 1874, which 
office he still holds. He also married a lady of Arkansas and 
has a large and interesting family. 



A Biographical Sketch. 41, 



PART II. 

THE CIRCUMSTANCE THAT DECIDED MY CHOICE 

OF A PROFESSION : OR WHY I BECAME 

A EAWYER. 



My Mother's Ambition — My Father's Advice — Early 
Efforts at Anatomy — A Fist Fight in Church — Choir 
AND Anti-Choir — The Tragic and Comic Side of the 
Church Quarrel — An Old Man's Idea of Scientific 
Music— A Church Trial — First Efforts as an Advo- 
cate — A Preacher Outwitted — History of a Business 
Card^History of an Old Letter — Personal Inspec- 
tion of Another Man's Work Worth Ten Thousand 
Dollars — An Angry Old Eawyer. 

My mother intended me for a preacher ; my %ther recom- 
mended me to study medicine but, by a mere accident, I chose 
the profession of law. In my youth I showed some taste for 
anatomy. I purchased a quantity of human bones from Dr. 
S. A. Barton and from a colored doctor of Philadelphia and 
spent my nights in my bedroom in arranging and wireing them 
together. I succeeded in preparing a tair skeleton of the 
human frame. I could then name the fifty bones of the head, 
trunk, legs and arms ; the twelve bones of the hand and wrist, 
and the fourteen bones of the foot. I have derived some ad- 
vantage from this knowledge in the practice of my profession. 
After months of labor I finished my work. I named it Pom- 
pey and, from pure bravado, I laid it in my bed and slept with 
it the night I completed it. I afterwards sold it to a secret 
society of Delaware. I am told they still possess it and use 
it in their initiatory ceremonies as "a sad memorial of man's 
mortality." 

I also attempted the preparation of the anatomy of a babe 
but the sutures of the skull bones had not sufficiently ossified 
to hold the little cranium together, so I gave this undertaking 
up in disgust. 

I had the name of being a bad boy, but this was unjust. 
After fifty years, I can look back and conscientiously denj- 
the charge. I was wild, untamed, overflowing with animal 
spirits and keenly alive to everything of a ridiculous nature,. 
but I was not bad at heart. My bad reputation was largely 



414 A Biographical Sketch. 

the result of an unfortunate disturbance in Bethel Church dur- 
ing a protracted meeting. I was then about seventeen years 
old. My father always dressed well and took pride in seeing 
his children fashionably clad. In those days the young men 
dressed with more taste and elegance than the}' do now. In 
the winter, the Spanish circular mantles were very fashionable. 
They were made of black broadcloth, lined with red satin and 
ornamented with long silk cords and tassels. When thrown 
over the shoulder, with the red satin delicately exposed, held 
in a loop by the Cord and tassel, they were very dressy. 
While sitting in the church one night I threw my mantle over 
the back of the seat and was, like a good christian, intently 
listening to the fine singing and earnest praying of the good 
old fathers of the church. I heard a tittering laugh behind 
me when, turning my head, I saw a low-bred fellow (whom I 
will not now name because he was of a respectable family) 
with his pocket knife cutting a long slit in the back of my 
mantle. Without thinking of the consequences, I d-ealt him 
a stunning blow in the face, felling him to the floor between 
the benches. He began to scream murder, but before assist- 
ance came his face was covered with blood. The scene that 
followed cannot be described. The church was crowded. The 
congregation jumped upon the benches and made a rush for 
the place, where they supposed a man was being murdered. 
The women and children began to scream ; the aisles were 
jammed up with struggling men and women ; some of the 
seats were broken and each person seemed intent to outdo all 
others in rendering confusion more confounded. My father 
was the first to seize my upraised arm. When I realized what 
I had done I at once surrendered. After quiet was restored 
ani the congregation dismissed, I was informed that I must 
go to New Castle jail. I felt that a crisis had come in m}' 
life but, in all the trying events of my subsequent career, I 
never felt more perfect command of my faculties. I asked my 
captors, in a subdued but calm and earnest voice, if they would 
hear me before condemning me. Father King was the preacher 
in charge. Father Samuel Hance was then a local preacher 
of great eloquence and power and one of the most popular 
men in the church. By his upright christian life he had de- 
servedly earned the respect and confidence of the entire people. 
"Brethren," said Father King, " do not be too hasty; let 
us hear what the young man has to say." " Certainly, cer- 
tainly," said Father Hance, " we will hear the boy before 
condemning him." I then felt that the victory was mine. I 
stated my case in a most respectful manner. I expressed my 
profound regret that I had permitted my indignation to get 
the better of my judgment. I told them of the tittering laugh 



A Biographical Sketch. 415 



I had heard, and that I saw the man I had chastised with his 
knife cutting mj' mantle. That it had cost my father seventy- 
five dollars only a month or two before, and that it was now 
ruined. Then, spreading out the folds before them, I pointed 
out the cut very much as Antony is supposed to have pointed 
out the "rent the envious Casca made" in dead Caesar's 
mantle ; after which I turned to my father and saw great big 
tears rolling down his honest cheeks. "Father," said I, 
" will you go my security for future good behavior and, if the 
church wish to prosecute me, that I will appear before any 
magistrate when required?" With some emphasis he said : 
" I certainly will, and will defend you, too, if it takes all I am 
worth." I was let off on my good behavior, upon my father 
agreeing to produce me when wanted. This little incident in 
my history has had a beneficial effect upon my whole after 
life. I never now condemn a man or boy without hearing 
him, and the experience of my life has taught me that there 
is generally some extenuating cause for every assault and bat- 
tery. In two cases out of three the man that gets beaten is 
in fault. Of course there are exceptions to this rule. This 
church disturbance, however, was the direct cause of the name 
I afterwards had of being a " bad boy." The man who was 
really in fault and who so maliciouslj'- commenced the assault 
by cutting my mantle left the State soon after and I never saw 
him again. It was reported in the neighborhood that he died 
in jail in Ohio, where he was convicted of some infamous 
crime and sentenced to a long term of imprisonment. 

In 1847, Bethel Church was one of the most flourishing 
in the State of Delaware. There were but few Sundays that 
it was not crowded. During religious revivals which were 
repeated every winter it was filled to overflowing. Services 
were sometimes continued nightly for over a month without 
abatement in the religious excitement. The congregation 
possessed several good singers, but there was no regular church 
choir. They had a sort of organization in the form of a sing- 
ing society, which met at stated times at each other's houses 
to practice and prepare for the ensuing church service. About 
this time, the singers petitioned the trustees, of whom my 
father was one, to set apart two benches prepared by a four- 
inch-wide board nailed upon the back of each bench, for their 
especial use. The board on the back of the bench was to 
hold their open note books while they sung. The request was 
granted but, like most sudden innovations upon settled cus- 
toms, instead of proving an improvement it turned out to be 
the ruin of the church. The primitive Methodists looked 
upon it as a step toward Ritualism and High Church prac- 
tices. The friends and enemies of the choir ^ as the singing; 



4i6 A Biographical Sketch. 

party called themselves, soon became divided into separate 
parties and, as the controversy advanced, the schism widened 
until, at last, it split the church and almost destroyed the con- 
gregation. Friends of a lifetime became enemies ; families 
were divided ; law suits were engendered ; church trials were 
instituted ; in a word, the Devil, under the guise of a note 
book, entered and ruined the church. At last the choirists 
triumphed in the tribunals of the church, but the victory was 
barren and, perhaps, so far as the cause of religion was con- 
cerned, worse than a defeat. It resulted in the withdrawal in 
a body of a large and influential part of the congregation and 
membership, and the building of the church called Siloam, 
only a short half mile from the old church. 

It may be doubted whether all the bad feeling engendered 
by this most unfortunate church feud of nearly a half century 
ago, has yet been entirely eradicated from the hearts of all of 
the old participants in the quarrel. I shall never cease to 
regret the part our family took in the unfortunate controversy. 
After forty-five years of reflection we can see our errors. There 
was no wrong in advocating improved church music ; the fault 
was in the way it was attempted to be done. Most of the 
fathers of Methodism had left the Church of England because 
of its extreme ritualism. The old Methodists of Bethel 
thought they saw signs of a return to High Church practices 
and conscientiously resented it. The time was not ripe for 
the innovation and its advocates pressed it with too much 
force. It is always dangerous to force even our conviction of 
right upon those who honestly differ with us. This spirit in 
the church was deeply regretted by my mother and was a 
source of great anxiety to her during the balance of her life. 
Every tragedy has a comic side. I had an old friend named 
Samuel Grubb, a blacksmith, at Grubb's cross-roads, in Dela- 
ware. Coming up from Wilmington one day on horseback I 
stopped to have my horse shod. He was very much excited 
over the church trouble and expressed his determination to 
take his hammer with him the next time he went to church 
and knock those strips the choir used as rests for their note 
books, off the backs of the benches. I undertook to reason 
the matter with him. I cited David and his harp, the music 
of the spheres, and even quoted Shakespeare's opinion of 
" The man that had no music in his soul," winding up m}^ 
remarks by referring to the Scriptural admonition to sing not 
only with the spirit but with the understanding also. He list- 
ened until I had finished, when he entirely demolished the 
structure of mj^ argument by a reply something like this : 
' ' Singing with the understanding does not mean that one must 
understand the cabalistic signs of a note book, it means you 



A Biographical Sketch. 417 



must understand the sense of the hymn ; it means you must 
understand the difference between the black art of the devil, 
witches and evil spirits, and good spirits. Anybody with 
commj.i sense ought to know that it will not help the voice 
to look, when you sing, upon those things you call keys, and 
bars, with black and white tadpoles, some with their tails up, 
some with their tails down, decorated with black flags, and 
trying to crawl through the fence. It's all the work of the 
devil." 

To shorten my story, we will return to the church trials 
growing out of the excitement created by the introduction of 
the Cabalistic Note Books. Among others the preacher was 
tried for maladministration, and my uncle Curtis and my father 
were brought before the church for violating that clause in 
the Discipline which forbids the drinking of spirituous liquors 
as a beverage. At first my father became very angry and de- 
termined to leave the church, but better counsels prevailed 
and he resolved to stand his trial. He had taken an active 
part in the impeachment of the preacher and, to make things 
even the preacher, as the prosecutor, presented the charges 
against him and my uncle. Remembering the successful man- 
ner in which I had defended myself on my trial, my father 
requested me to act as his counsel. Upon reflection, and after 
due deliberation in a family council, it was arranged that I 
should defend my uncle, and that Mr. John B. McCay should 
act as my father's counsel, but that I should prepare the points 
upon which he should base his defense. I commenced by a 
careful study of the Discipline and a commentary upon it, 
written by one of the Bishops who had been a lawyer. The 
book laid down three general principles : ist. That the trial 
must be in accordance with, and under the forms of, the canon 
law ; 2nd, That the rules of evidence must conform to the 
laws of the State in which the trial is held ; and 3rd, That 
the offense charged must be one made punishable by the civ:l 
law. Offenses mereh- against the Discipline of the church do 
not, in the first instance, subject the offender to expulsion, bat 
only to admonition and reproof. That is to sa}', offenses not 
mahim in se, that is, not criminal in themselves, but which 
are made offenses by the church Discipline only, subject the 
offenders, ist, to a private admonition. If he does not heed 
the private reproof, then he may be admonished by the 
preacher in the presence of witnesses. It he continues recu- 
sant, he may be brought to trial. In the book referred to, 
Greenleaf on Evidence, and sever- 1 books on English ecclesi- 
astical law were cited as authority. I procured a cop>- of 
Greenleaf and studied it very closely. I found in the canon 
law that some substantial person must be named as prosecutor, 



4i8 A Biographical Sketch. 



and that the charges mast be clearly expressed and must be 
followed up by specifications of time, place and circumstances, 
consecutively numbered, and if the minister should be the 
prosecutor, he could not preside as a judge on the trial. I 
prepared these points in form, with full instruction how to use 
them, citing the authority for each point. On the day ap- 
pointed for the trial, the church was crowded. It was rumored 
that there were, at least, fifty witnesses, and that the trial 
would continue several days. We had taken the precaution 
to have the Presiding Elder present, as the immediate superior 
of the preacher in charge, to whom we could appeal upon our 
points of law. As we had anticipated, the charge was read 
naming the offence as " The drinking of intoxicating liquors 
as a beverage," and was signed, as we had hoped, by the 
preacher in charge as the prosecutor. After the court was 
opened, the preacher assuming to preside, at once proceeded 
to name the committee of trial. We at once raised the ques- 
tion of competency in the judge and produced the authority. 
" He was the prosecutor and could not be the judge." The 
Presiding Elder held the point well taken and, being the next 
in authority by the rules of the church, he took his seat as 
President of the court. This was the first point gained and 
presaged final victor3^ A committee friendly to the accused 
was appointed. The Presiding Elder naming one, the accused 
named one, and the two so chosen, the third. 

The preacher then proceeded to call his witnesses. We 
asked the ruling of the court upon the following point : " NO' 
witness will be permitted to testify to any fact except from his 
own personal knowledge ; and shall not state anything derived 
from information received from other sources than his own 
personal knowledge." The point was sustained. The result 
was that of the forty or fifty witnesses present only three could 
testify from their own personal knowledge. One was a woman 
who said she saw the accused drink a glass of ale with his 
dinner at a market tavern in Philadelphia. One man said he 
had seen him take a glass of brandy with a friend in a hotel 
in Chester, and the third testified that the accused had treated 
him at the bar of the Black Bear hotel on Christmas Day, in 
Philadelphia. After the testimony had closed we presented 
our first point: "That drinking intoxicating liquor as a 
beverage is not a crime or misdemeanor rmder the laws of the 
State, and that the defendant, according to the Discipline of 
the church and the canons of ecclesiastical law, could not be 
brought to trial until after admonition from the preacher." 
The result was an acquittal both of my father and uncle without 
"the jury leaving the box." The Presiding Elder came to- 
my father's house after the trial was over, and complimented me 



A Biographical Sketch. 419 

very liighl}- upon the " master!}^ manner in which I had con- 
ducted the defense." He then suggested that I should study 
law and volunteered to speak to Mr. Bates, then in full prac- 
tice in Wilmington, Delaware, with whom I was registered as 
a student and read law in his office for two years. Mr Bates 
was then Secretary of the Commonwealth and was afterwards 
Chancellor of the State. He was a man of most remarkable 
ability, possessing a finely cultured mind but a frail body. 
He died a few 3'ears ago respected and honored by all who 
knew him. By his advice, I chose the city of Philadelphia as 
the field of my future efforts. I read law for six months under 
Hon. Edward Darlington, of Media, and on his motion was 
admitted November 24, 185 1. I was admitted to the Phila- 
delphia bar soon after, and practised my profession in that 
city for about twenty five years and up to the time I took my 
seat upon the Bench in Delaware County. 

The above incidents in my life are only useful as illustra- 
tions of the general truth, that " man is a creature of circum- 
stances." The difficulty I had with the man that cut my 
mantle, and for which, if it had not been for the forbearance 
of the good old Christian men then at the head of the church, 
I would have been tried for a crime, was the indirect cause of 
the choice of my future profession. The trial of my father, 
which we all keenly felt as tending to disgrace the family, was 
the direct cause. 

Of all the interesting circumstances in my life, as a law- 
5'er, only three will be of any interest to the general reader, 
and they are only valuable as illustrating the great results of 
small things in the life of a professional man. 

In 1852, while I was courting the lady I afterwards mar- 
ried, she was spending a few days with one of her former 
schoolmates who lived near the old Navy Yard in Philadel- 
phia. It was about four miles from my cousin's home at 
Seventeenth and Market, where I was then boarding. I, of 
course, spent a few hours in her society every evening while 
sh i was there. One night about eleven o'clock, when I started 
for home, I found myself in a furious snow storm. The snow 
was at least a foot deep in the streets, the omnibuses had all 
stopped, and I had four miles to walk. I managed to wade 
through the snow about three squares to the old frame ' ' Ferry 
Hotel," and spent the balance of the night by the fire in the 
bar-room. The next morning I took a look at myself in an old 
fly-stained looking-glass that hung upon the smoky wall of the 
bar-room. I noticed the edge of the frame full of business 
cards, stuck between the glass and the wood so as to attract 
the attention of persons vain enough to look at themselves in 
the glass. Without expecting any resulting I, in a mechanical 



420 A BluGKXPHICAL SkUTCH. 

ical way, took a card from my pocket and stuck it in the 
frame. A few days after, a carriage scopped in front of my 
office and a gentleman on crutches came in with my card in 
his hand. He was a merchant from Newborn, North Carolina, 
and stated that he had been badly injured by a collision on 
the Camden and Amboy road, in which a great number had 
been killed and wounded. He wanted to commence proceed- 
ings against the corporation for negligence ard recover dam- 
ages for his injuries. I asked him who had recommended him 
to me. He said, being a stranger, he had taken the wrong 
ferry-boat from Camden, and had landed at the Navy Yard 
instead of Market Street ; that he had gone into the old Ferry 
Tavern to warm himself while waiting for the omnibus to 
bring him up town, and had, while casually taking a look at 
himself in the glass to see what kind of an appearance he 
would present after the accident, seen my card, and, as he 
would want a lawyer, he concluded to call on me. A minute 
history of the details of the results that followed this little 
incident will be too long to here recount. Suffice it to say, I 
recovered heavy damages against the company, the case. was 
finally settled and, for twenty-three years, I attended to all 
the business of the firm of which my client was a member in 
Newborn, and through his recommendation I secured many 
other clients from that city. At a rough estimate, that little 
card was worth to me at least five or six thousand dollars. 

The next incident which will serve to encourage vigilance 
in young lawyers happened four or five years afterwards. I 
had for a client an old shoemaker whose shop and dwelling 
were up in Kensington. After his death, his wife, in order to 
collect a few outstanding bills, was compelled to incur the ex- 
pense of an administration upon his estate. I was employed 
as her attorney. I inquired about his estate but found it very 
small. His widow asked me what she should do with a quan- 
tity of papers she had found in his desk which, as far as she 
could learn, were of no value. I told her to pack them in a 
shoe box and send them to me and I would examine them. 
I spent several nights examining and reading every paper. I 
was tempted several times to throw the entire batch into the 
waste box, but as the decedent had thought the papers of suf- 
ficient importance to be preserved, I resolved to patiently finish 
my task so that I could, with certainty, inform my client that 
they were worthless. After having nearly finished my exam- 
ination, I found a letter from Calcutta, India. It was seventeen 
years old, and was from a firm of lawyers in that city, addressed 
to the decedent, informing him of the death of a merchant of 
that city without known heirs and, as he was of the same 
name, requesting information as to whether he was in any way 



A Biographical Sketch. 421 

related to the Calcutta merchant. I sent for my client, the 
administratrix, read the letter to her and asked if she knew 
anything about it. She said she remembered hearing her 
husband say, on several occasions many years ago, that he 
was heir to some money in Calcutta, but for the last ten years 
he had never mentioned it. I concluded it would not cost 
much to write. I accordingly wrote a letter, informing the 
attorneys that I represented the dead man and that he had 
said in his lifetime that he was heir to some money in Cal- 
cutta, naming the estate, and that I was informed the}^ could 
give me some information. About six months afterwards, and 
when I had almost forgotten the whole affair, I received a 
letter from the Judge of the court in Calcutta, stating that he 
was the survivor of the firm to whom I had written. That 
his partner was dead and that there was a large sum of money 
there invested in English funds at two per cent, interest, under 
the control of the Bank of England, China and India, in Cal- 
cutta, awaiting the identification of the heirs of the decedent 
in America — the English heirs having long since received 
their share. The balance of this story is too long for recount- 
ing the details. After unheard-of labor, and spending a good 
round sum of money, I found the American heirs, scattered 
over the different States of the Union. One was a servant 
girl in Philadelphia ; one was a bar-tender in New York, and 
one was a herdsman in Texas. In all there were only eight 
entitled to participate in the fund. The proofs were all regu- 
larly made before the British Consul and duly certified to at 
Calcutta. About five years after the discovery of the letter, 
I received a draft on London worth, at that time, forty per 
cent, premium, and after deducting the fee agreed upon, 
amounting to several thousand dollars, the smallest sum paid 
to any one heir was to the servant girl and her brother, the 
bar-tender. They received four thousand dollars each. I had 
heard much of great fortunes awaiting claimants in the old 
country, but this is the only case I have ever known to prove 
successful in its results. 

The last circumstance connected with my early practice 
to which I wish to refer, will illustrate the importance of de- 
pending on ourselves and never taking anything for granted 
simply because some one, who ought to know more than we 
do, says so. 

A firm of distillers on Market Street was dissolved by 
the death of its senior member. The surviving partner was 
appointed by the court receiver of the firm's assets. He was 
represented by one of the first lawyers of the city who had 
the reputation of being very skillful in adjusting complicated 
accounts. I was taken into the case to do the drudgery neces- 



422 A Biographical Sketch. 



sary to be done in all contested cases, but I had no discretion- 
ary powers and was expected to implicitly obey the orders of 
the senior counsel. At the end of the year allowed by law, 
the Receiver was required to file an account. I was ordered 
to examine the books, arrange the vouchers and lay all the 
papers, books and accounts before a celebrated accountant 
whose name I will not mention because the story I am about to 
tell might be offensive to his surviving familj^. The accounts 
were prepared with a great display of statements, sheets and 
balance sheets, supposed to conclusively prove the result to 
which the accountant had arrived. When the court appointed 
a Master to pass upon the account and report distribution, the 
senior counsel appeared before him, presented the voluminous 
papers, as his oivn personal ivork, and assured the Master that 
he had carefully examined every item and voucher and could 
certify that the account as stated was absolutely correct. I 
noticed that the counsel representing the dead partner, 
seemed highly pleased with the result of the account. He 
stated to the Master that he had no objections to interpose- 
That he was glad the estate had fallen into the hands of such 
able gentlemen as our senior counsel; that it was unnecessary 
to prolong the proceedings, and he therefore agreed that the 
Master might certify the account as correct and proceed to 
make distribution of the estate without further delaj' — all of 
which tickled the pride of our senior very much. Now it so 
happened that our client had requested me, after the accounts 
were filed, to give him an opinion as to what his balance 
would probably be. To do this I took the books which had 
been returned by the accountant, and, in my own way, struck 
the balance and found the share of our client to be about 
$104,000. To our surprise the expert accountant had only 
awarded us $94,000, a difference of $10,000. Our client was 
very much annoyed that I should have made such a mistake, 
I looked over the great number of statements, debtor and 
creditor sheets and balance sheets of the expert, but could not 
find where the error was. At last I threw all his work aside 
and commenced a statement of the account in my own simple 
and common sense way, by first charging the Receiver with 
all the estate that had come to his hands, then crediting him 
with all the debts he had paid and all the proper expenses of 
settling the estate. The balance was certainly the clear estate 
of the firm. I then divided the balance which made the sum 
of $104, 000 for each partner. I then found by the books that 
he had paid to the wndow of the deceased partner at sundr}- 
times during the year many large sums of money, but instead 
of charging them to the /<?r.y<?7za/ account of the deceased part- 
ner, he had simply credited his Receiver's account with these 



A Biographical Sketch. 423 

several payments. It was quite clear that all paymeuts to the 
estate of the deceased partner should be charged against liis 
share of the balance of the estate and not against the general 
fund> and here was the whole error, making the diiference 
against our client of $10,000. Elated with my discovery, I 
went at once to the senior counsel with my re-statement of the 
account, but to my surprise and disgust I found that I could 
not beat into his head the demonstration of the mistake. I 
found that his great reputation for unraveling complicated ac- 
counts was entirely due to the skill of his old expert book- 
keeper and, with all his brilliancy as a lawyer, he absolutely 
knew nothing about mathematics and could hardly add up 
four columns of figures without great labor and many mis- 
takes. At last he got angry and in a sarcastic manner in- 
formed me that I knew almost too much for one man and not 
quite enough for two, and that my interference would make 
delay and trouble in the final settlement of the estate ; that his 
expert accountant knew more in a day than I would be able to 
learn in a lifetime, and that he preferred to take the account 
of a man who had served him for twenty years without mak- 
ing a mistake in as much as a farthing, to the figures of a boy 
who was interested in sustaining a mistake by which he had 
raised false hopes in his client. I had always before this 
treated him with great deference and respect ; but now, being 
convinced of his shallow pretensions, I calmly told him that I 
had not yet informed our client of my discovery, but that I 
would now do so, and take the responsibility of filing, in my 
own name, exceptions to the account. I called upon our client, 
who, being a common sense business man, saw the error at once, 
and suggested that instead of filing exceptions we should call 
on the Master and state our discovery to him. The Master 
saw it in a moment and at once applied to the court to have 
the account recommitted and the error corrected. The result 
was that I had saved my client $10,000 by trusting to myself 
rather than taking the conclusions of one that ought to know 
much more than I did. My client immediately discharged the 
senior counsel, gave me a handsome fee, and made me his sole 
attorney from that day until I retired from the bar in 1875. 
He also sent me a great many valuable clients and never 
ceased, when the opportunity presented itself, to speak well 
of me and to tell his business friends the service I had done 
him. 

My experience at the bar has had its sad as well as its 
happy side — its tragedies as well as its comedies. I could un- 
fold many interesting tales of sorrow; open the wounds of many 
bleeding hearts and expose skeletons in many closets. 

" But this eternal blazon must not be!" 



4^4 A Biographical Sketch. 

It would not only violate mj' oath of office but would open 
wounds long since healed. Why exhume the putrid carcasses 
of dead and buried contentions ? 



A Biographical Sketch. 425 



PART III. 

RECOLLECTIONS OF BETHEL AND BRANDYWINE 
HUNDRED SIXTY YEARS AGO. 

Ante-Railroad Times — First Temperance Society — The 
Old Post Road— Hotel Keepers op the Olden Time- — 
The Fireside and Bake Oven — Anglo-Phobia — The 
Schoolmaster— Five Miles Around Bethel Church- 
Beauties — Woodmen — Whimsical Men, Witches and 
Fortune-Tellers — Fireside Tales — Aunty Burnett's 
Snake Story — Granny Eastick — Emmor Lloyd — Polly 
Pudding — The Bewitched Rabbit — The Hunter's Re- 
venge — Mousley's Adventure at the Devil's Rock — 
An Old Man Turned Into an old Mare — Planting Ac- 
cording TO the Signs — The Lucky Bone — Bewitched 
Churn— The Water Wizard and the Weather Wise — 
Ante-Mowing Machine Days — The Country Store — A 
Chronic Liar — Old Fanny Cherry — Molly Shade's 
Speak-easy — Postscript. 

When I was born, there was not a steamboat, steamship, 
railroad or electric telegraph in the world. There had been 
experiments in steam locomotion and navigation, but no prac- 
tical results had been attained. The year 1830 may be adopted 
as the birth-year of steam locomotion. The first patent in the 
United States was granted in 1828. All the ships of that day 
were built of wood ; the iron age had not yet commenced. The 
manners and customs of the people were very different from 
the habits of to-day. The drinking of intoxicating liquors 
was almost universal. Every family, making the slightest pre- 
tensions to gentility, had its side-board well stocked with 
liquors. A decanter of spirits was upon every dinner table. 
To make a social call and not be invited to the side-board, 
would be a polite intimation that your company was not agree- 
able. The first regular temperance society was formed in 1826, 
the year of my birth. It made but little headway until after 
1833. In that year the first' National Temperance Convention 
was held. It adopted the following resolution : " The traffic 
in ardent spirits as a drink and the use of the same as such are 
morally wrong and ought to be abandoned throughout the 
world." This resolution made a ripple of excitement among 
the people and was generally regarded as an undue interference 



426 A Biographical Sketch. 

with the social rights of a free people ; very much like the 
ridicule and condemnation that followed the first resolution of 
the society for the abolition of human slavery. It cannot be 
doubted but that we were, at that time, rapidly becoming a 
nation of drunkards. The onl}^ difference between the aristo- 
cratic clergyman and the poor layman in this respect was, that 
one drank French brandy while the other drank whisky. 

The radius of daily news did not extend beyond thirty or 
forty miles from the count}^ town. It required a month or six 
weeks to get the news, by the fastest sailing ships from Eu- 
rope. The old Post Road from Wilmington to Philadelphia, 
was the central artery for the circulation of general news. Im- 
portant messages were carried by post riders on fast horses 
which were changed every ten miles. Taverns were located 
all along the road about ten miles apart. In those days the 
' 'keeper of a public house, ' ' as tavern keepers invariably called 
themselves, were looked upon as important persons, several 
degrees above the couimon herd in social and political standing. 
I have seen the U. S. mail coach, with an armed guard and 
trumpeter come up the Post road in a full gallop, and when 
the horn was blown, all the farmers on the road to the Phila- 
delphia market, immediately pulled out to give free passage to 
the "United States Mail." 

Wood was the only fuel ; coal had not yet come into gen- 
eral use, even in the. cities. Hickory wood was hauled by 
horses all the way to Philadelphia, Chester and Wilmington. 
There was a city officer called the " Corder." It was his duty 
to measure every cord of wood brought for sale to the city. 
Every farmer carefully preserved his woodland, as he supposed 
the supply would soon become exhausted and his timber lands 
would bring fabulous prices. The city of Philadelphia was 
illuminated by whale oil lamps. Gas had not been yet in- 
troduced. Great whaling fleets sailed at stated periods from 
various ports, including Wilmington, to procure whale oil for 
lubricating and illuminating purposes. Coal oil was only 
known as a quack medicine, and was sold in small bottles by 
the druggists to cure rheumatism. The houses, at night, were 
lighted by oil lamps, candles, and, in winter, by a rousing fire 
in the great old-time fireplace. 

The social meaning of the word ' ' fireside' ' is derived from 
the old baronial fireplaces of merry England, around which 
the family gathered for social enjoyments and the entertain- 
ment of sojourners, neighbors and friends. Some of these 
fireplaces were so large that an ordinary sized man could walk 
into them under the mantel, without stooping, while in breadth 
they were from eight to ten feet, and at least four or five feet 
deep. The backlog was the trunk of a tree, from eighteen 



A Biographical Sketch. 427 

inches to two feet in diameter and six feet long. Andirons > 
two and three feet long', supported the cord wood while it 
burned, sending out a bright but cheerful light and generous 
warmth throughout the large family room, while- the blue 
smoke could be seen by the children on the stone seats in the 
chimney corner, curling and ascending to the chimney top. 
These great j&replaces were only in the principal family room, 
which was usually very large and served as kitchen, dining 
room, family sitting room, spinning and working room and 
a place ior family intercourse and enjoyment. 

Every farm house had an enormous bake-oven from six to 
eight feet long by three to four feet wide of an oval shape, in 
which a dozen large loaves of bread, forty or fifty pies, a little 
pig, a great roast, or two turkeys and several chickens could be 
baked all at the same time. The preparation of oven wood 
was a serious matter to the farm hands, so much so, that in the 
rustic parties and sham weddings with which the young peo- 
ple amused themselves, thej' required the supposed groom to 
promise that 

"He would be true, and would be good 
And keep his wife in oven ivood.'" 

As a rule the people loved the French and hated the Eng- 
lish. This was because of the friendship of France during the 
-Revolution; the recent visit of Lafayette and the bitterness en- 
gendered by what was then called the "Late War." (1812) 

There was no common school system in those days. The 
school houses were erected like the churches, by individual 
generosity; by the union of a few families or by general con- 
tribution. The "Master" formed and ruled his own school by 
a regular scale of prices per quarter, none being admitted 
without paying a fixed sum for tuition. In mathematics and 
English Grammar the schools were as good if not better than 
the schools of to-day. The trouble of the S5'stem was that the 
children of the poor and many of the middle classes were 
neglected and grew up without as much as acquiring the rudi- 
ments of an education. I have known many worthy, bright 
and highly intelligent men who could neither read or w^rite. 
Some of the respectable families of to-daj^ are descended from 
such grandfathers. ■ 

The schoolmaster had to be a man of courage as well ss 
learning, and able to whip the biggest boy in the school, w^hich 
he generally had to do before he was properly respected. Dis- 
cipline was enforced by a small switch for the girls but a great 
ox-gad for the boys. While the boys were good-hearted and 
robust fellows, it must be confessed the)^ were inclined to be a. 
little belligerent. All questions of importance were settled by 



428 A Biographical Sketch. 

a personal combat. The one that could whip the other was 
always considered in the right. 

By the foregoing general outline of the situation sixty 
years ago, the reader will be better able to account for the 
peculiarit}^ and eccentricit}^ of some of the people of Bethel and 
Brandywine Hundred at that time. I ought, however, to say 
that my personal recollections do not cover the whole of either 
Bethel or Brandywine Hundred. "The Hundred," as we used 
to call it, extends from Wilmington to the Pennsylvania line, 
and from the river Delaware westward the entire breadth of the 
State. Its general population were as highly cultivated and 
were as polite as the best citizens of Pennsylvania. The parts 
of Bethel and "The Hundred" to which I wish to confine my- 
self lie within a radius of five miles around Bethel M. K- 
church and about equi-distance from Wilmington, Chester and 
West Chester. The elevation is very high; Malaria was un- 
known; the people lived to be very old; the men were robust 
and sturdy ; the women were handsome, strong and motherly; 
the girls were noted for their beauty in form and feature. They 
had sweet engaging manners and exceedingly kind hearts. I 
may say without fear of successful contradiction, that in all 
my travels I have never seen young women with better com- 
plexions, fairer faces or better forms than many of the young 
women of Bethel and Brandywine Hundred fifty years ago. 
The little piece of territory above described has also turned out 
several good and useful men. The country was heavily wooded 
from the river up to Brandywine Summit. If we desired we 
could hunt all day without leaving the continuous wood from 
Hickman's mill up through the lands of Preston Eyre and 
William Larkin and as far as Concord ; or we could take the 
south branch of Naaman's creek at the Post road and keep in 
the woods as far up as Brandywine Summit. Game was quite 
plentiful. With our old-fashioned flint lock guns six feet long 
we could shoot pheasants, partridges, wild pigeons, woodcock, 
wild ducks, English snipe and squirrels. Foxes were so com- 
mon as to make the preservation of our chickens somewhat 
difficult. During the hunter's moon the young fellows, with 
good trained dogs, amused themselves by successful 'possum 
and coon hunts. Rabbit hunting with hounds was great sport. 
There were a class of workmen in those days called ' 'woods- 
men." They were one degree higher in the social scale than 
"farm hands," who, in their turn, were one degree above 
"laborers." These woodsmen spent their whole time in the 
woods chopping fire wood, getting out fencing materials and 
ship timber. I have seen them with a rip saw, one man on an 
elevated log and one standing under it, the man above lifting 
the saw and the one below drawing it down, sawing out great 



A Biographical Sketch. 429 

three-inch plank for shipping. The ' ' ship stuiF, " as it was 
called, would be transported on great timber wheels, drawn l)y 
five or six horses in a single file, to the shipyards in Wilming- 
ton. There was another distinct class of workmen, called 
" team drivers." They did nothing but attend to and drive 
their teams by which they transported all articles of heavy 
merchandise. All the business now done by railroads was 
then done by these " teams." 

My readers will now understand why many of the good 
people of the neighborhood above described were cranky, ec- 
centric and superstitious. While this little spot of earth con- 
tained its full share of bright, intelligent and well-bred people, 
it must be confessed it had more than its share of singular and 
quaint characters. The belief in witchcraft had, unfortu- 
natel}^ taken a firm hold upon the minds of many very re- 
spectable citizens. It was nearly universal among the farm 
hands, woodsmen, teamsters and working people. I am told 
that traces of its slimy trail can yet be discovered in some of 
the descendants of the old believers in the black art. It was 
useless to argue the question with them. They were well 
posted in all the passages of Scripture upon that subject. 
They pointed to the case of Saul and the Witch of Kndor, and 
cited the commandment, " Thou shalt not sufi^er a witch to 
live." As the Bible, in those days, was supreme authority 
upon all disputed questions, they had the best of the argu- 
ment ; just as the priests are ?aid to have silenced the argu- 
ment of Galileo, that the earth was round, by pointing to the 
passage of Scripture which declared, that at the second advent 
of Christ he should descend from heaven and all the world 
should see him ; which could not be if the earth was round, 
unless the inhabitants in the antipodes could look through the 
earth ; so, the believers in witchcraft said, "If the Bible is 
true, there were witches in the olden time and, if there ever 
was a witch, there can be witches now." 

The belief in witches, wizards, ghosts, dreams and for- 
tune-tellers was the direct result of fireside stories told by old 
women, nurses and weak-minded men to while away the long 
winter nights. When a little boy, I have listened to them by 
the hour until I was so excited with fear that I would not go 
to bed in the dark or sleep alone. 

Many wonderful snake stories were told. It was said 
they would milk the cows and charm birds and children. That 
if a child should be charmed by a snake and the reptile should 
be killed, the child would die. Snakes were then quite plen- 
tiful and some were very venomous, especially the yellow 
viper and copperhead. I remember killing one when I was 
quite small. It had coiled itself in my path as I was going 



43° A BlOGKAPHlCAL ItKETCH. 

to school through the woods about a mile from my father's 
house. When I told my father that the snake flattened its 
head and hissed at me like a goose, he turned deadly pale and 
made me take him to the place where I had killed it. When 
he looked at it he said, " My son, that is a viper ; if it had 
as much as scratched 5^our skin it would have killed you." I 
have seen black snakes six and seven feet long and large 
enough to swallow a half-grown rabbit. I have often found 
them in a half-dreaming state with toads and frogs in their 
bellies. 

There was an old midwife in the neighborhood named 
Aunty Burnett. She had no settled home ; her skill in her 
profession made her welcome in every house. It was hardly 
necessary to have a doctor if Aunty Burnett could be secured. 
She had an exhaustless supply of most startling and marvel- 
lous stories. When I was about seven years old I heard her 
relate the following incident : She was employed to nurse a 
dying old man whom she named, and who was well known in 
Delaware. He had the reputation, while in a fit of anger of 
having whipped to death one of his old slaves, named Pompey. 
Just before his death they raised him up in bed when, with a 
stare of horror, he stretched out his emaciated arm and with 
his bony finger he pointed to a corner of the room and cried 
out aloud, " Pompey ! Pompey !" They looked at the place 
at which he had pointed and there was an enormous black 
snake slowly crawling towards the bed. The old man gave a 
frantic scream and fell over dead. When they looked for the 
snake it was gone. 

There was another old woman in ' ' The Hundred ' ' 
named Granny Eastick, who, as far as I have been able to 
learn, had no enemies and whose onl}^ fault was her age. She 
was a widow, dressed oddly, walked half bent with a home- 
made cane, lived alone in a log house in the woods and gath- 
ered chestnuts, shellbarks, walnuts and hazelnuts, which she 
sold for a living. In the winter, when pinched with hunger, 
she would sometimes solicit alms in the form of cold victuals 
and cast-off clothing. Yet she had the reputation of being a 
witch. She got her reputation in this way : One of her 
neighbors who, by the way, was a distant relation of mine on 
my mother's side, had a very sick cow. From its strange 
actions, the cow doctor said it was bewitched. It would sit 
like a dog, roll its eyes, and try to stand on its head. The 
doctor consulted his witch book and found that the remedy to 
break the charm, when a dumb animal should be bewitched, 
was to cut off its right ear, stick it full of new needles and 
then boil it in spring water. The effect would be that the 
witch, whoever she might be, would make her appearance. 



A Biographical Sketch. 431 



tormented by the pain of the needles in her ear. Then, with- 
out speaking, some of the boiling water should be thrown 
upon her and the charm would be broken. While this cere- 
mony was being performed, poor old Granny Eastick happened 
to come up the lane with her basket on her arm to request 
some cold victuals. Without a word, some of the boiling 
water was thrown on her. She screamed and ran away and, 
as the cow got well, she was ever after reputed a witch. The 
following story of old Granny Eastick, I heard from an old 
man named Enimor Lloyd. He was a wood-chopper. His 
terms were fifty cents a day and a quart of whisky. He regu- 
larly drank his quart of whisky every day for forty years and, 
of course, died in the Poor House a very old man. He was 
chopping our winter firewood when he told the story one win- 
ter night, in front of a rousing fire, with a pitcher of hard 
cider by his side. The story ran thus : There was a very 
interesting girl of about fourteen years, the daughter of a re- 
spectable farmer in " The Hundred," who was afflicted with 
a most singular disease. She would run on all-fours like a 
dog ; she would mew like a cat ; sometimes she would (on all- 
fours) run backwards, and if not watched would go into very 
dangerous places. (No doubt she had St. Vitus' dance). It 
was thought the child was bewitched. Emmor was then chop- 
ping wood for the girl's father and he determined to break the 
spell and save the child. A witch doctor was consulted who 
said,' if the witch could be compelled, in the presence of the 
person under her .spell, to say '" God bless the child," the spell 
would be broken ; provided, the blood of the witch could be 
drawn with a rusty iron instrument before she had time to re- 
peat her curse. Emmor provided a rusty table fork and then 
sent for Granny to come and see the child. As soon as she en- 
tered the room he seized her by the throat, charged her with 
the crime, and commanded her to look at the girl and sa^^ ' ' God . 
bless the child." She at once raised her hands and said, 
" My God bless the child." He gave her a terrible shake 
and tightened his grip upon her throat saying : " You must 
not say 7ny God, your God is the devil ; say ' God bless the 
child.' " Nearly dead from his grip, she repeated the words 
as directed. He instantly drew blood from her forehead by 
scratching her with the prongs of the rusty fork and the child 
got well. 

Many good old women in the neighborhood were believed 
to be witches. I will only relate one more case — that of P0II3' 
Pudding. That was not her proper name. When Hickman's 
mill was being built Polly's husband, whose name was Benja- 
min, was one of the millwrights. It was the custom when a 
new mill was ready to be started to give a big dinner to the 



432 A Biographical Sketch. 



workmen. On this occasion a very large pudding had been 
provided. At dinner Ben made a hog of himself and ate nearly 
the entire pudding. When the mill was started one of the 
men turned to Ben and said : "Can you tell me what the 
clapper says ?" "Yes," says Ben, "It says pitta patta, patta 
pitta.''' "No," said the other, "It says Benny Pudding — 
Pudding Benny.'' The rest of the workmen at once took up 
the refrain and began to sing, Pudding Benny, Benny Pudding, 
which, very much to Benny's annoyance, they kept up all the 
afternoon, and from that day to the day of his death he was 
known by no other name than Benny Padding. After his 
death his widow was called Polly Pudding, even the children 
were called Puddings. After her husband's death Polly lived 
in a small house in the woods near Faulk's Cross Roads. She 
was a sober, industrious and economical old woman. She did 
not meddle with the affairs of her neighbors, but bent all her 
energies to the support of herself and children and yet the}^ 
called here a witch, simply because some hunters stopped at 
her home one day to get a drink of milk and while partaking 
of her hospitality laid their guns in a heap on the floor, which 
she stepped over and jokingly said: "A penny for all the rab- 
bits these guns will shoot to-daj^" The hunters had scarcely 
left the door before a fine rabbit jumped out of her garden. 
The dogs at once started on the trail and chased it all the 
balance of the day. It ran through thickets, greenbriers, 
swamps, hedges and among the rocks. At one time the dogs 
were within a few feet of it when it suddenly stopped and ran 
back between the legs of one of the hunters. They all shot at 
it over and over again until night stopped the hunt and their 
ammunition was exhausted. They then remembered the 
magic words : "A penny for all the rabbits these guns will 
shoot to-day," and came to the unanimous conclusion that 
Polly Pudding had bewitched their guns and had turned her- 
self into a rabbit and in that form had been playing with them 
all the afternoon. During all the balance of her life she was 
reputed to be a witch. One of the hunters lived in Bethel near 
Booth's Corner. When he arrived at home that night he 
found one of his cows dead. He cut her open and found a 
"a^itch ball in her stomach. (A witch ball is a small roll of hair 
about as large as a walnut often found in the stomach of cows, 
supposed to be taken into the stomach by the cow licking it- 
self when shedding its coat). He at once consulted an old 
woman named Joanna Thompson, a fortune-teller, as to how 
he could break the spell. She informed him that the spell 
could be broken by drawing a profile picture of the supposed 
witch upon a sheet of white paper with a new goose quill, 
using his own blood for ink. Then with a silver bullet, twelve 



A Biographical Sketch. 433 



steps away, naming one of the twelve Apostles at each step, he 
should shoot at the picture. If he should hit it, and the per- 
son he suspected was the true witch, she would be wounded in 
the same part of her body as might be struck on the picture by 
the silver bullet. He strictly followed the directions, took 
deliberate aim, pulled the trigger, but the gun did not go off. 
Upon examination he found the mainspring of the lock had 
broken. He kept his place and sent his hired man to the house 
for a live coal, which he applied to the touch-hole and the gun 
went off. The silver bullet struck the picture in the leg. He 
then made his man mount one of his fastest horses and ride 
over to Polly Pudding's to ascertain the effect. The man met 
one of her sons going after the doctor. Just at the time the 
gun went off she had fallen down stairs and broken her leg. I 
heard this story told by the man who shot the picture. He 
related it in all its particulars, much more at large than I have 
repeated it, to eight or ten men at the old log blacksmith shop 
at Booth's Corner, then occupied by a man named Mousley. 
A learned discussion followed the story, some holding that the 
coincidents tending to establish the fact that old Polly was a 
witch were but accidents, others taking the ground that the 
law ought to protect the people from such evil influences. 
Some of the young fellows present boldly announced their 
skepticism as to the existence of witches or even the devil him- 
self. This seemed to shock Mr. Mousley very much, and to 
convince the young skeptics ot their error he related an ad- 
venture of his own still more startling and supernatural than 
the tale of Polly Pudding. 

To understand the story the reader must be made ac- 
quainted with the surroundings. A short mile from my 
father's house, nearly due south and just over the Delaware 
line, there was a very remarkable rock known as "The Devil's 
Seat." It sloped to the eastward and had upon it a well-de- 
fined print of a large cloven ^oot and a hollow place as if made 
by a large man sitting upon it while it was in a soft state. I 
have no doubt but that it was a landmark made during the 
stone age. Stone arrow heads, spear heads and what were 
called Indian axes made of stone have been found around the 
place. Perhaps it was intended to mark the boundary of the 
territory of Sitting Bull, the Indian chief whose tribe once oc- 
cupied Delaware and a part of Pennsylvania. There are many 
persons now living who have seen this singular rock. There 
is another very remarkable rock on the farm formerly occupied 
by John B. McCay, deceased, covered with hieroglyphics 
which was, perhaps, another landmark of a long lost tribe. 

"The Devil's Seat" was in about the centre of a twent}^ 
acre field, very poor, and which had not then been cultivated 



434 -^ Biographical Sketch. 

within the memory of the oldest inhabitants. It was called 
the Indian Field and was believed, by the class of persons I 
am trying to describe, to be haunted. I have seen as many as 
four or five holes, three or four feet deep and in diameter as 
large as an ordinary well, dug in different places in the field 
by unknown persons, supposed to be searching for hidden 
treasure. Because of its bad reputation hunters at night gen- 
erally avoided this field, for many strange stories had been told 
of valuable dogs who had chased game at night into the field 
and had never been seen again. The rock was destroyed a 
few years ago by being blasted with gunpowder; the person 
who destroyed it was the owner of the farm and, it was said, 
he expected to find a pot of gold under it. Whether he did 
or not I have never heard. It is certain, however, that he 
succeeded in destroying one of the most interesting remains of 
a pre-historic age. 

The scene of Mousley's terrible adventure was in this 
field at midnight and upon the above described rock. He had 
been hunting with three excellent dogs and had caught two 
coons and an opossum. While wending his way slowly home- 
ward, the moonlit sky was suddenly overcast with black, 
ominous clouds ; the dogs seemed terrified and ran trembling 
to where he stood under an old chestnut tree, about twenty 
yards from the " Devil's Seat." He heard a rumbling sound 
under his feet like smothered thunder, then he saw a sudden 
flash of light. Turning his face toward the place from whence 
the flash came, he saw a most terrible sight. There sat the 
Devil in his seat upon the rock. He was blowing a blue flame 
out of his mouth and nostrils, as if trjdng to warm his hands, 
His eyes looked like two balls of fire. He had no clothes 
upon him, and was as red as blood. Mousley, half dead with 
fright, dropped his game at his feet. Satan then threw up 
both arms above his head and yawned. His mouth, when 
opened by his yawn, looked like the open door of a blast fur- 
nace. Just then Mousley's best old dog picked up one of the 
coons and started in a full run toward the rock and, without 
stopping, plunged head foremost into the devil's open mouthy 
coon and all, and disappeared. The other two dogs immediately 
followed suit, each with his game in his mouth. Just then a 
great old owl flew out of the tree above his head with a loud 
hoot, and hovered over the rock. The devil looked up at the 
owl and with an unearthly Ha ! ha ! ha ! he sunk into the earth 
dogs, game and all. The dogs were never seen again. This 
story was told, not as a joke, but as a solemn truth, by a 
Christian man of a good reputation for truth and veracity. 
He was, perhaps, temporarily insane from excessive fright and, 
jn his demented state^ believed the fancies of his heated 



A Biographical Sketch. 435 

imagination to be realities. I leave the question for psycliolo- 
gists to solve. It is too deep for my c6mprehension. 

It was a common custom in my boyhood days, after their 
own harvesting was done, for farmers to assist each other at 
" harvest wages" (which was about four times the wages of 
common labor) in securing their crops. There were no reap- 
ers, mowers, or even horse rakes in those days, say sixtj^ 
years ago. The wheat was reaped by hand with a common 
sickle and the grass was mowed by the scythe. One of 
our neighbors, who lived over the line, (whose name I will 
suppress because some of his descendants are now very respect- 
able people and would perhaps blush to know their ancestor's 
weakness) was assisting my father during harvest. One morn- 
ing he came to the farm very late. He looked very much out 
of sorts, complained of soreness in his joints, stiff limbs and 
backache. Being a conscientious man and member of Bethel 
church he hesitated to undertake to do a full day's work at 
"harvest wages." Taking my father aside, he said he had 
been so abiised the night just passed that he did not feel able 
to do the work of a full hand. My father asked him who had 
abused him. He replied that he had been turned into an old 
horse and had been ridden by witches all night under whip and 
spur and that he was so tired he could scarcely walk, much 
. less work My father laughed at him and told him that in- 
stead of being an old horse he had a night-mare . The poor 
fellow did not see the point and hobbled off home. He had 
evidently caught cold and had bad dreams. 

Many of the old farmers planted their crops in strict con- 
formity with the zodiacal signs in the almanac. They would 
not plant beets, carrots or parsnips when the sign was in the 
head, nor corn, cabbage or turnips when it was in the feet. 
Many persons believed in faith cure for all diseases. There 
were persons who believed they had the power to pow-wow 
away warts, skin excrescences, tumors and the like, while 
others believed in some occult influence possessed by certain 
persons born with a cowl, who, by repeating a secret passage 
of Scripture, could stop hemorrhages and relieve pain. Many 
of my readers will remember an old gentleman named Jehu 
Forwood, of Brandywine Hundred, who was said to possess 
this wonderful power. When accidents happened from run- 
away horses, falls from trees, or bad wounds from the unskill- 
ful handling of edged tools, two horses were at once saddled, 
one was sent at full speed to Jehu Forwood, to have him stop 
the blood and relieve the pain, the other was sent for the doc- 
tor. I am unable to explain the miracle, but almost invariably" 
the blood and pain stopped about the time the rider reached 
Mr. Forwood's house. It was said that persons injured at a 



436 A Biographical Sketch. 

great. distance from his house were relieved more certainly than 
his near neighbors. He attributed this to more earnest faith. 
The probability is that the blood had more time to coagulate 
and the pain was perhaps soothed by the mucilaginous exuda- 
tions from the blood protecting the fresh wound from the action 
of the air. 

A very common custom with the young girls was to secure 
the forked bone of a fowl's breast, called the "Lucky-bone," 
and place it over the front door of the house. The first young 
man that entered under the bone was to be the future husband 
of the maid that placed it there. This was a sign that seldom 
failed. The reason is quite obvious. As both parties believed 
their union was decreed by heaven, they naturally submitted 
to the divine predestination. The witch-hazel tree was sup- 
posed to possess invincible powers over the charms of magi- 
cians. It entered into almost all domestic medicines and was 
a specific against all the arts of sorcery. 

I remember when I was a little boy one of our neighbors 
had great difficulty in churning his butter. He had churned 
continuously for seventeen hours and the butter would not 
come. He concluded that the churn was bewitched and at 
once went to the woods for a v;/ithe of witch-hazel which he 
bound around the churn and in a few minutes the butter came. 
It was, however, verj^ white and cheesej'. The fact was that 
he had half starved his cows ; the weather was cold and wintry 
and the milk had but little butter-producing substance in it. 

As late as 1842 respectable people professed to have the 
power to tell where to dig wells in order to strike water near- 
est to the surface, and many intelligent persons believed it. 
There was an old and highly respected jeweler of Wilming- 
ton, well known by almost everybody in the State, who boldly 
professed to possess this power. The corporation of Wilming- 
ton lost the record of one of its old water mains and had spent 
much time in vain endeavoring, by a system of digging, to 
find the lost water pipe. At last after digging up many streets 
where it was supposed the main might be but without success, 
one of the city fathers suggested that they try the skill of the 
old jeweler. The suggestion was adopted. He went to a 
neighboring wood and procured two wands of witch-hazel 
which he placed before him in the form of St. Andrew's cross 
and commenced walking over the streets where it was thought 
the pipe might be. In about half an hour, with hundreds of 
men and boys following him, he suddenly stopped and directed 
the workmen to dig. They did so and to the joy of the city 
authorities the lost main was found. 

One of our neighbors was a great weather-wise. He had 
digested a system of rules and signs by which he foretold the 



A Biographical Sketch. 437 

state of the weather for several days in advance. Some of his 
rules were based upon meteorological influences and can be 
explained upon scientific principles of which he had not the 
slightest knowledge. Many of his signs were exceedingly 
absurd. He believed in the prophecy of St. Swithin (ground- 
hog day) as firmly as he did in the book of Revelation. His 
faith in the influence of the moon was equally as strong. A 
hazy ring around the moon meant approaching rain. The 
number of stars within the ring indicated the days within 
which the storm would come. When he saw the leaves of the 
willow tree turn upwards and the smoke from the chimney re- 
fuse to ascend, or when the chickens perched upon the fence 
and with their bills began to arrange their feathers, rain was 
sure to come within a day. A pig in the late fall with straw 
in his mouth meant a hard winter. A great harvest meant a 
long winter ; a scant crop of hay meant a short and mild win- 
ter. His rule was : "If your crop is short, save it all and 
you'll have enough ; if you have a great crop don't waste any 
for you'll need it all." 

His theory of the moon's control of the weather was ri- 
diculously absurd. When the new moon appeared with her 
belly down and horns up (convexo-concave) he predicted a dr}- 
month. His reasons were that the water in the moon could 
not run out. When the new moon appeared concavo convex 
— -belly up and horns down — of course all the water in the 
moon ran out upon the earth and a wet month was the conse- 
quence. 

My father used to laugh at his theories and, by many 
well-made arguments, try to convince him of the absurditj^ of 
his signs. One beautiful moonlight night, our old neighbor 
came to our house with a beam of triumphant satisfaction upon 
his honest face, and a great roll of foolscap paper in his hand. 
" Well, John," said he, " I've come over to convince you that 
the moon does control the weather." He then unfolded his 
mamuscript which contained the results of a year's observa- 
tions. He had kept a record of every rain during the year 
and his record clearly showed that every storm had occurred 
within three days of a change of the moon. My father was 
at first inclined to dispute the record, but as our neighbor was 
a man of spirit as well as physical strength, such an intimation 
might have led to unpleasant results. After a few moments' 
thought, my father burst into a derisive laugh. "Why," 
said he, " you old fool, don't you know that by no possibilit}" 
could a storm come beyond three and a half days of a quarterly 
change of the moon ? A lunar month is twenty-eight days ; 
there are four changes in the month, or one every seven days ; 
if the rain is four days from the last quarter it must be onh^ 



43^ A Biographical Sketch. 

tliree days from the ensuing one, because four and three make 
seven I shall never forget the look of bewildered amazement 
in the face of our old neighbor as he began to realize the 
truth. " Dod Zounds," said he, "I'll hardly believe the 
Bible any more." 

Kveri the forms of religious worship in those days were 
very different from the practices of to-day. Whether the 
modern doctrine of evolution applies to the spiritual as well as 
the physical world, is a question too deep for me. I do not 
wish to be misunderstood. In my religious views I am ortho- 
dox, but it is quite certain that great advances have been 
made, not only in the forms but in the creeds of many Christian 
denominations during the past sixty years. I have witnessed 
most boisterous and extravagant ebullitions of religious ex- 
citement at protracted meetings and revivals in Old Bethel 
Church. I have seen religious fervor approach so near insanity 
as to be hard to draw the dividing line, and which would not 
be approved by the sentiment of the most fervent worshiper of 
to-day. And yet the persons who were guilty of the absurd 
antics caused by what they called the " Blessing," were un- 
doubtedly good, honest Christians. Under intense religious 
excitement they lost control of themselves and ignored the 
restraints and conventionalities of society. Among the many 
earnest old Methodist preachers of my boyhood days I can recall 
two whose preaching made a lasting impression upon my mind. 
They were eloquent to a remarkable degree. Their ideas were 
original and often startling. They were great revivalists and 
always drew together crowded congregations. I shall never 
forget the conclusion of a prayer made upon the occasion of a 
great revival meeting by one of these old preachers. After in- 
forming the Ivord that his Christian soldiers had overcome the 
devil and driven him from the field of battle, he concluded 
thus : " Now, O Lord, lash the devil — lash him till he lolls 
out his iry and blistered tongue upon the blasted and burning 
shoals of eternal damnation and howls for mercy, but show him 
none for Christ's sake, Amen !" 

The other old preacher to whom I have referred was ap- 
pointed to Chester circuit, which extended from Brandy wine 
creek to Philadelphia and from the river back to Downing- 
town. With his horse and saddle bags he rode over this great 
circuit and preached three times each Sunday at his different 
appointments. He was a man of most remarkable genius, with 
a mind well stored with historical illustrations and ludicrous 
anecdotes. A new church was to be dedicated and an effort 
was to be made to raise funds to pay off the church debt. His 
text was : ' ' The Lord loveth a cheerful giver ' ' While des- 
canting upon the love of the Lord for a liberal man, he took 



A Biographical Sketch, 439 

occasion to express what contempt he must have for a stingy 
soul. He said that there were great souls that God could not 
look upon the earth without seeing them, and there were other 
souls so small that the Almighty had to use a microscope to 
find them. " So small that ten thousand of them could dance 
a jig upon the point of a cambric needle and have more room 
to jump about than a tadpole would have to wriggle in the 
Atlantic ocean." 

It was quite fashionable to preach eulogistic funeral ser- 
mons over the coffins of all the old sinners in the neighbor- 
hood. The custom became such an intolerable nuisance that 
the preachers were compelled to set their faces against it. To 
illustrate the ridiculous extent of this foolish custom, I may 
be pardoned for relating an anecdote told in my father's house 
by the Rev. J. B. Ayars, then the traveling preacher of Ches- 
ter circuit. He was aroused late one night by the son of one 
of his congregation, a boy of about ten or twelve years, who 
had come to request him in the name of his father to preach a 
finieral sermon over the remains of his brother, who had just 
died. The preacher took out his memoranda book to make 
some notes about the d ^ceased so that he could intelligentlj^ 
speak of him in his sermon. 

The following dialogue ensued : 

" What was your brother's name ?" 

" He hain't got no name." 

" How old was he ?" 

" He was no old at all, he died a bornen,''' 

The country store, at the cross-roads, was a great place 
for loungers, loafers and idlers. They met by mutual affinit}^ 
and drank cider, smoked common segars and talked politics. 
Theological questions and the affairs of State were often dis- 
cussed, jokes were cracked and amusing stories were told. 
It was a real pleasant place to spend the long autumnal nights. 
Among the frequenters of the place was a man named Bat^ 
ten. He had the name of telling very improbable stories and 
was never known to hear a marvelous tale without being 
able to tell a still more extravagant one. One of the old men 
of the neighborhood was very fond of starting Batten by tell- 
ing himself some improbable story. One night, when my 
uncle Wesley Clark, now a very old man, was playing a game 
of checkers at the store. Batten entered. The old gentleman, 
to whom I have just referred, turned to my uncle and said, 
" Wesley, have you ever heard of a larger eel than the one 
you and I caught down at Grubb's Landing when we were 
boys ? It weighed just twenty pounds." Batten pricked his 
ears and remarked that he, upon one occasion, when he was 
working at Charley Pusey's mill, saw a very large eel. He 



440 A Biographical Sketch. 

said the mill suddenly stopped without any apparent cause. 
The headgate was open but no water flowed upon the great 
over-shot wheel. At last they found an enormous eel had got 
fast in the wooden trunk which carried the water from the 
headgate to the wheel. With great difhculty they got it out. 
' ' Well , " said uncle Wesley , "how large was i t ? " " Weel , ' ' 
said he, " we weighed it very carefully on the scales and, sin- 
gular as it may seem, it just weighed twenty pounds and one 
ounce. ^^ 

On another occasion he told of a remarkable shot that 
he once made while at Pusey's mill. He said a party of gen- 
tlemen from Philadelphia came to see Mr. Pusey and brought 
with them veiy expensive double-barreled guns with which to 
astonish the country people on a squirrel hunt. They got an 
early breakfast and started out to a shellbark tree in the 
woods, near the mill. It was not long before they commenced 
to shoot. They shot so rapidly and so long that Mr. Pusey 
sent him out to see what was the cause of such incessant 
firing. When he arrived he found the hunters had been shoot- 
ing all the morning at the same squirrel on the top branch of 
the tree. He had taken Mr. Pusey's gun with him and asked 
leave to make one shot at it. The hunters laughed at his old 
flint-lock gun, and told him he might try what he could do. 
He went to the butt of the tree, stepped off one hundred yards 
so as to have a fair sight on the squirrel, and banged away. 
At the first shot down came the squirrel, stone dead. He 
picked it up and was surprised at its extraordinary weight 
but, giving it a shake, the cause of its extra weight was ex- 
plained — fully two pounds of shot had lodged in its hair, and 
about another pound had just peneh ated its hide, but none had 
gone into its body far enough to kill it except the heavy shot 
from Pusey's gun. 

Pusey's mill was in Upper Chichester and is now a ruin, 
having been burned a few years ago and never rebuilt. 

When my father was building the home in which I was 
born. Batten's father was one of the carpenters. A large 
chicken hawk had been carrying off the poultry and my father 
determined to watch for him in the early morning and, if pos- 
sible, shoot him. He, however, did not get up early enough. 
When he went out with his gun, he saw the hawk on the oppo- 
site side of the field at. least a hundred yards away, making his 
breakfast on a fine young hen. He did not expect to hit it 
but shot at it to frighten it away when, to his surprise, the 
hawk fell dead. A single slug had, by chance, struck it in 
the head. "Well," said he, "Batten, that was a very re- 
markable shot. ' ' ' ' Yes, ' ' said Batten, ' ' that was a very fair 
shot, but if I were to tell you how far off / shot a hawk once 



A Biographical Sketch. 441 

with my old gun, you would say, ' O, pshaw ! that's one of 
Batten's lies.' " 

There were several other quaint old characters I would 
like to introduce to my readers if time and space would permit. 
Some of my older readers will remember Old Fanny Cherry. 
Her proper name was Frances Chervine ; she was an old maid 
of gigantic size ; I should say she was at least six feet in height 
and large in proportion. She could lay an ordinary man over 
her knee and spank him as a mother would an unruly boy. 
She used to boast that no man ever insulted her. She had no 
special calling, but migrated from house to house. Wherever 
she could hang her shawl she considered her home. She usually 
carried her entire wardrobe with her ; I have seen her come up 
the back lane to my father's home, with six petticoats and 
three frocks on, an umbrella under her arm, a parasol over her 
head and a band-box in her hand. Whenever she appeared 
thus equipped it indicated a two weeks' visit. She was a devout 
Methodist, and a great shouter. She never went to church 
without indulging in her favorite form of worship, which was, 
as soon as the preacher said anything that pleased her, to jump 
up, clap her hands and whirl round and round, like a top until 
she became dizzy, which she mistook for a manifestation or 
divine approval and ihen sat down content. 

There was another old female known as Molly Shades. 
Her home was about a mile south of my Uncle Nelson's house. 
It was completely isolated, being a half mile from any other 
dwelling. Its seclusion adapted it to the purpose for which it 
was used. It was an old-time speak-easy where all who wished 
could drink whisky and smoke tobacco on the sly. While 
gunning one day with my father, when I was a boy, he pointed 
out the old house and said : "If these old trees could speak 
they would tell many unsavory tales of drunken carousals, 
ribald songs and scenes of revelry." Many of the old, good 
fellows of the neighborhood would meet there to spend their 
leisure hours. Sometimes their festivities would not end until 
' ' the wee small hours of the morn. ' ' Amid the fumes of com- 
mon segars, four for a cent, hard cider at a cent a glass, whisky 
at twenty cents a gallon, and pig-tail tobacco at a cent a yard, 
we may imagine how the old revelers spent their long winter 
nights. 

My father said the first time he visited the place was just 
ctfter his return from the city of New York, where he had lived 
for several years. He went into the house to buy a plug of her 
best Cavendish tobacco. She said she had nothing but " Pig 
Tail." He informed her that he did not chew pig tail. "Now 
John," said she, " Don't put on any of your New York airs 
here. Why don't you talk like other people ? Why don't 



442 A Biographical Sketch. 

you say you don't chaw pig-tail ? I'll declare how some peo- 
ple do put on !" 

My book must now be brought to a close. Whatever my 
readers may think of it or of me, I feel they will at least ad- 
mit that my life has not been a lazy one. 



POSTSCRIPT. 

I have submitted the manuscript of my personal recollec- 
tions of Bethel and Brandywine Hundred to an old friend 
from Massachusetts. He assures me that there were in the 
neighborhood in which he was born, sixty or seventy years 
ago, just such quaint old customs, whimsical characters and 
superstitious people as I have described. 

I am inclined to the belief that there was a class of people 
in all the rural districts of our common country very much 
like those I have mentioned, and that their peculiarities and 
eccentricities resulted from their social isolation and the ab- 
sence of free schools, newspapers, railroads and telegraphs, 
which have now made mankind cosmopolite. 

T. J. C. 

January i, i8gj. 



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